Anyone who has had to work with wood, be it installing a wooden floor, carpentry work or wood crafts, is well aware of its most unpleasant property. No matter how high-quality the raw wood is, when it dries, it will certainly warp or develop deep cracks

This happens because a living tree is filled with juices, like a sponge. Under the influence of air temperature, the top layer of wood dries out much faster than the inner layer. And the higher the air temperature, the greater this difference will be. But how can you dry wood so that it doesn’t crack and you can continue to work with it without fear of warping?

Requirements for drying wood

Methods of drying wood: a - natural, b - in a low-temperature chamber, c - under high-frequency currents, d - in a condensation chamber.

Drying consists of 2 processes that occur simultaneously in the tree. Moisture evaporates from the surface of the tree, and that which was originally inside the trunk moves from the center to its surface. The larger the workpiece, the longer it takes for the moisture to evaporate. For wood that will be used outdoors, the residual moisture content should be in the range of 12-18%. But if wood or wood products are supposed to be used in a heated room, then it will have to be additionally dried at room temperature. The residual humidity in it should not exceed 8-10%.

In industrial conditions, when drying wood, a special device is used to determine its moisture content - an electric moisture meter. But at home there is no need to purchase such a device for a couple of blanks. The moisture content of wood can be determined quite accurately by touch. To do this, just squeeze a few wooden shavings in your hand. If the wood is dry, the chips will break in your hand, and if not, they will be compressed.

If you have to start harvesting wood, remember: the tree has the least amount of moisture from the time it has completely shed its leaves until the buds begin to swell on it. If you decide to prepare wood for subsequent processing yourself, then it is better to do it during this period.

Let's take a closer look at the different methods of drying wood.

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Drying standing trees

Stand drying is considered the most reliable. It can be carried out from spring until the end of summer. Later, it will be problematic to properly dry the tree while standing, since at this time it moves less moisture along the trunk, preparing for hibernation.

A ring of bark is removed from a tree trunk at a distance of 0.3-0.5 m from the ground. The width of the ring can be taken arbitrarily, but most often it is made from 1 to 1.5 m. If you remove less bark, the drying time will increase, and removing more is inconvenient for many due to their growth.

This method is good because it allows you to dry the wood quickly. The removed bark does not allow moisture to enter the crown of the tree, while at the same time the foliage continues to intensively consume the moisture remaining in the trunk, dehydrating it. When the foliage on the tree dries, it can be cut down and divided. The wood in it will be dry, and it can be safely used for its intended purpose.

This method is good when you need to dry single trees quickly. But in the forest you can perform this process differently. The tree needs to be cut down, leaving a 0.7-1 m ring of bark around the trunk from the cut site. And then 2/3 of the trunk can be trimmed without touching the crown. The remaining foliage will continue to do its job for some time, drying out the tree trunk in a week in a way that under normal conditions it would not have dried out in a month.

After 2-3 weeks of such drying, the trunk is sawn into the pieces you need.

But you shouldn’t use them right away; the wood definitely needs to be dried.

This is done under a canopy, placing a 0.25-0.5 m high flooring under the wood to prevent even the slightest contact with the ground.

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Drying wood in atmospheric conditions

The workpiece is boiled in water for several hours. After boiling, it is dried away from sunlight.

For this purpose, a flat, dry area is selected on the site. The place should be on a hill to avoid flooding. A flooring of poles is constructed on it, on which the workpieces are stacked.

The top row of the stack, whether round timber or planks, is laid on a slight slope and covered to protect it from both rain and sun. If you use round timber from a coniferous tree for drying, then it is better not to remove the bark from it, otherwise, even covered, it will crack. To protect the ends of round timber from rotting, they are treated with lime, liquid glue or a solution of table salt.

This method allows you to remove about 75% of the moisture initially found in the wood. However, it cannot be used to dry the tree quickly - the average drying speed can be taken as 1 cm per year. But this value depends on numerous factors: the type of wood, the thickness and type of wood and weather conditions. Therefore, to guarantee it, it is better to assume that coniferous and soft hardwood wood takes 1-1.5 years to dry, and hardwood wood takes 2 years or more.

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Drying wood using newspapers and straw

These methods are used when small pieces of wood need to be dried. When using newspapers, the wooden blank is wrapped in dry newspapers and then placed in a plastic bag. The bag is wrapped tightly and placed in a warm place - the warmer the better. When the newspaper in the bag becomes wet, open the bag, remove the wet newspaper from the workpiece and replace it with dry one.

Depending on the initial moisture content of the wood, this process may take 3-4 weeks. Over time, the intervals between newspaper changes will increase as there is less moisture in the workpiece. In this case, to speed up the drying process, you can increase the thickness of the newspaper layer, but remember that too rapid loss of moisture will lead to cracks.

Drying wood with dry straw uses the same principle as drying with newspaper. Only in this case, the wooden blanks are dried not in a warm place, but under a canopy, covered with a thick layer of dry straw. Straw, like newspapers, takes moisture from the tree, but, unlike newspapers, there is no need to change it every day, it dries itself. If straw is not at hand, dry shavings or sawdust can be replaced with no less success.

Wooden products made from oak belong to the premium class. The wood is used to make furniture and interior parts. Oak is rarely used for construction, as the price of the material is high. In order for the wood to last longer and not crack over time, it must be properly processed. One of the critical stages of processing is drying. Let's talk about how to dry oak at home and in production in more detail with our readers.

To dry oak in large industries, drying chambers and the vacuum method are used. At home, these methods are not available, since they require special equipment, which is expensive. Another effective method is under the influence of electric current, but in Russia it is practically not used due to its high cost.

• Oak wood dries out easily. This means that when the humidity drops below 7%, the product will begin to crack, both inside and out.
• The longest time will be required to dry fresh wood with a moisture content of 25%.
• If you start drying immediately by raising the temperature above 50 degrees, the internal capillaries of the wood will begin to collapse and the product inside will become covered with cracks. This will not affect the appearance, but the fragility increases by 75%.
• High-quality drying is carried out only by maintaining uniform temperature and humidity.

How to properly dry oak is planned, since the final percentage of moisture depends on the tasks and purpose of use of the product. The tasks of drying oak can be considered in the table:

Complete drying is used only in the manufacture of furniture or small interior design elements. For medium and large sized lumber, processing for transportation and storage is sufficient.

Several available methods for preparing wood

For home processing, the following methods are used:

1. Dry the oak tree in advance. The required tree is marked in advance on the plot and in the spring the bark is removed from it, right from the roots to a height of 20–30 cm. The juices will not be able to reach the crown in the required volume and the oak will dry out. In the fall it is cut down and cut into timber.
2. Natural drying. Oak wood of natural moisture content is purchased. The material is laid out under cover on the site, so that the wood is blown from all sides. The material is laid on chocks in layers. The distance from the ground to the bottom row is at least 300 mm. Drying time is 3–6 months, depending on climate and humidity.
3. Drying small items indoors. The oak product is wrapped in newspaper in 5–8 layers and covered with PVC film on top. Holes are made in the film for ventilation. The product is placed on the windowsill above the battery. Once an hour the package is turned over. The process takes 2–3 days. This is the most affordable way to dry a wooden product at home.

Drying large oak timber at home is difficult. The most affordable option is outdoors. But wood is hygroscopic and easily absorbs moisture from the air. That is, if drying is carried out during the rainy season, the process becomes useless. The easiest option is to harvest wood from the winter forest. In winter, at temperatures below -20, oak wood acquires moisture equivalent to chamber drying. Therefore, products from winter forest do not require additional preparation.

Methods in production

When preparing wood in production, chamber drying is used. The oak is placed in a special sealed convection chamber. Under the influence of high temperatures and ventilation, excess moisture gradually evaporates and the wood dries. The process is carried out in three stages:

1. Wood heating.
2. Drying.
3. The oak cools and acquires the desired humidity.

The camera is constantly monitored, because if the process is disrupted or a mistake is made, the product begins to twist or crack. The kiln drying process lasts from 1 to 3 weeks. But many manufacturers shorten the process and the wood does not dry out completely.

It is important to check the moisture content of the wood from the inside before purchasing. For this, a manual moisture meter is used.

The vacuum drying method is carried out in special chambers, where, under the influence of atmospheric pressure and high temperatures, the minimum moisture content of lumber is achieved. The vacuum method is used in production for preserving wood, since in the chambers the product is additionally treated with antiseptics. The compounds penetrate deep into the wood under the influence of vacuum. This increases shelf life and improves product quality during transportation. The vacuum method is difficult to reproduce at home, as special equipment is required.

Chamber drying, due to its high cost, is gradually fading into the background. A new method is replacing it - infrared preparation. Infrared treatment reduces drying time and saves electricity. At the same time, the effect on oak wood is uniform and soft, and does not destroy the product from the inside and outside. Exposure to infrared heat makes it possible to obtain any percentage of humidity.

Know-how - preparation using infrared light

Infrared batteries can be used at home and in factories. The process requires cassette forms, which are located inside a special frame of metal stacks. The size of the battery depends on the number of cassettes, so 2–3 pieces are enough for home use. The amount of material processed simultaneously does not matter; the main thing is to position it correctly and direct the light. Treatment up to 6–12% is carried out within 6–7 days. To obtain 20–25% humidity, 2–3 days are enough.

Oak lumber after infrared exposure has the following characteristics:

• Has a specified humidity.
• The fibers do not deform, so there is no internal stress or microcracks.
• Externally, oak remains natural (color and shape do not change), as during atmospheric drying.

The rules for using an infrared battery are simple and the operator does not need to have any skills or experience. The battery is connected to a simple single-phase outlet and current consumption is minimal. To dry 1 cube of oak you will need 200–350 kW.

Humidity is checked during infrared exposure with a hand-held moisture meter. As soon as the indicators meet the set objectives, the dryer turns off. Immediately after the process, the dried lumber can be used in work. The process is shown in more detail in the video:

Since oak is capricious and does not react well to temperature changes, the optimal drying methods are natural or infrared. They are suitable for home use and do not require any special preparation. In large industries, chamber drying or vacuum preservation is used. Which significantly reduces time and extends shelf life.

Drying wood is an important stage in preparing lumber for work, as a result of which excess moisture is removed from the tree by evaporation. Why is this being done? Dry wood is characterized by high strength. It warps much less, sticks together easily, and is not subject to rotting or cracking. Finished products are easy to decorate and are enviably reliable. Thus, the wood drying process is mandatory if you want to obtain products of impeccable quality.

Wood drying methods

Types of wood drying are quite varied. But they all pursue the same goal - obtaining a reliable building material with improved physical properties.

Ancient drying methods

It is noteworthy that the evaporation technique was first used in ancient times.
A piece of wood was placed in a tank of water (70 degrees), sawdust was sprinkled on top and left to steam. As a result, the wood not only did not crack, but also acquired a dense, flexible structure.

Another method was also used - waxing. The blanks were dipped into liquid paraffin (40 degrees) and left for several hours. The wood obtained in this way did not warp and acquired a beautiful dark shade. Paraffin waxing was most often used in the production of tableware. All that remained was to paint the wooden cups and spoons with simple patterns and varnish them. Interestingly, the products were so strong that they did not crack under any circumstances.

Natural drying of wood

It is not so easy to get good material in a short period of time. The solution may be to quickly dry the wood. If the tree is a block (ridge) in the bark, then it is better not to remove the bark, but to make cuts across the trunk. You can leave the bark 10 cm wide only along the edges of the block.

It is important!
Alder, birch, aspen, linden (even completely sanded) dry without cracks with moderate drying. However, the ends of the logs should be coated with oil or resin.

It is necessary to dry lumber naturally in a well-ventilated, dry area. If you dry it in the sun, the outer surface will heat up, but the inner surface will remain damp, which will lead to defects. The blanks are placed on stands with a height of at least 60 cm in stacks. There should be ventilated gaps between them.

There is an opinion that boards installed on the edges dry out twice as fast. However, keep in mind that they will warp more. The technology for drying wood at the ends also causes cracks, so the beams will have to be trimmed. This is why the blanks must be longer than the required length.

The natural drying time for wood is 2-3 years. This is one of the disadvantages of the method, because... It is not always possible to wait that amount of time. The advantages include the simplicity of the procedure and the absence of large financial costs.

Chamber drying

If the cost of drying wood is not of great importance, because... The goal in itself is an excellent result, it is worth paying attention to other options.

Chamber drying is highly effective, it allows you to monitor the progress of the process and obtain material with strictly necessary humidity. It is carried out in industrial conditions. Containers with boards are driven into drying installations, where the liquid is evaporated under the influence of a gaseous environment. Wood drying modes can be changed at your discretion.

PAP chambers are metal devices with aerodynamic heating. During the drying process, low pressure steam must be added to the chamber. The operation process is not difficult. But such wood drying has a significant price, which is explained by the high energy consumption.

Rotary drying

This method is based on the use of centrifugal force. Stacked lumber is installed on a special platform inside a heated room. Centrifugal force promotes the movement of moisture to the ends and outer surfaces of the beams.

The intense movement of hot air creates favorable conditions for uniform drying of lumber in the shortest possible time. Special stoves or lamps act as heat sources. The flow of infrared radiation spreads quickly and penetrates to a depth of 12 mm. This means that coniferous wood up to 25 mm thick can be dried in a few minutes, which is several times faster than chamber drying.

Contact drying

Contact, or conductive, drying is realized by heat transfer from a heated surface. The method is especially effective when working with thin materials - plywood or veneer. The sheets are pressed between two heated plates. Heat is transferred to the wood through close contact, which explains the name of the method.

Atmospheric drying

One of the most common ways to obtain dry wood. Does not require additional energy resources and can be used at home.

The productivity of atmospheric drying of wood at home depends on several factors. In particular, on the humidity of the surrounding air, time of year, and ambient temperature. It is also worth noting that storage equipment for drying wood will require a lot of free space and compliance with certain conditions.

• You can dry the wood under a canopy or in a shed, but always with intensive through ventilation;
• the boards are laid in several rows at small intervals;
• To reduce the risk of warping, you can put something heavy on top.

In dry weather, the atmospheric drying method allows you to obtain wood with a moisture content of 12-48%. If necessary, you can dry it to a lower percentage in a well-heated room.

Drying in liquids

Used as an additional measure before impregnation with oil antiseptics. The liquid agent is aqueous solutions of mineral salts or hydrophobic substances (molten metals, paraffin, sulfur).

The duration of the process is limited by the intensity of heat redistribution in the dried lumber and the power of the drying chamber heat exchanger. The wood is immersed in liquid and brought to a boil. The constant temperature regime is maintained until free moisture is completely removed. Drying time is 3-20 hours.

It is important!
On average, the duration of natural drying ranges from several weeks to several months. Artificial - from several hours to several days.

Of course, this is not a complete list of methods for drying wood. There is also radiation, induction drying, drying in a high-frequency electric field or using refrigeration equipment.

Drying wood yourself

Not everyone has the opportunity to use professional drying equipment, but you shouldn’t despair. You can dry the wood at home.

• decide on a place. The drying area should be in an open space. This could be the middle of a vegetable garden or the flat roof of a low building. Cover the surface with roofing felt and sprinkle with sawdust;
• laying the material. It is important to take into account the direction of the wind - the stack is laid across, and not along, the wind flow. The stack width is 1.2 meters (maximum). Optimal - 0.8. The height can be any, but not less than 0.5 m;
• arrangement of supports. The goal is to raise the bottom boards. The most reliable design is a well made of timber with a cross-section of 50x50 mm. Lay out 2 wells 0.7 m high, lay a support pad with a section of 60x80 mm. The recommended distance between supports is 1.5 m. It is important that the surfaces of the upper gaskets are in a strictly horizontal plane;

• stacking. Gaskets are additionally placed on the top layer of blanks, after which the ends of the lower and upper boards are tightened with a rubber band cut from a car inner tube. Tape width - 40 mm;
• wood protection. Boards should be protected from precipitation. However, there is no need to completely close the stack. Place several dry poles on the top pads (along the length of the stack). Lay sheets of roofing iron on the poles until a canopy of 15 mm is formed. Place more dry poles on top, and to prevent them from being blown away by the wind, tie them with a rope. There should be an air gap of 8 cm.

That's all. The homemade drying installation is ready. Now you know how to avoid wood cracking and significantly improve its performance. Let products made from your own dried wood be not only beautiful, but also durable!

Drying lumber: video

Wood is a very popular building material, but it has one very unpleasant quality - shrinkage. Moreover, when it dries, because the top layer dries faster than the inner layer, the wood can crack and bend. Therefore, you need to know how to dry wood so that an unpleasant surprise does not happen during or after work.

Process description

When drying wood, two parallel processes take place. The greater the mass and volume, the longer the drying will take. First, the upper layers dry, and at the same time the inner layers dry, and the moisture from the latter passes into the upper ones. If the material is subsequently used in a heated room, it must be dried there as well.

You can check the moisture content by squeezing the shavings in your hand. In completely dry wood they should break immediately. In production, humidity is determined using an electric moisture meter. The most suitable period for self-harvesting wood will be the period from the moment the leaves shed until the buds begin to swell.

Time required for drying lumber to 18-22% moisture content

A month of laying lumber for drying	Climate zone number	Drying time in days for lumber thickness, mm
March April May
June July
Aug. Sept

Drying on the vine

Next, we’ll look at how to dry a tree while standing. This should be done strictly from spring until the last month of summer. Having retreated 0.3-0.5 m from the ground, you need to remove the bark (1-1.5 m) along the entire circumference of the trunk. With this method, the tree dries quickly enough, and when the leaves fall, it can be cut down and sawed.

For trees in the forest, a different technique may be used. First you need to cut down the tree, remove the bark from 2/3 of the trunk, stepping back a little from the place where you cut it. The tree's foliage will absorb all the remaining water from the exposed trunk, and it will dry out in 2-3 weeks. After cutting, such wood still needs to be kept for drying under a canopy, but under no circumstances should it be laid on bare ground.

Air drying

We discussed above how to dry a tree while standing, and then we will look at how to dry a tree in an open space. To do this, you need to build a deck at some level above the ground, covering it from precipitation and the sun. Cut down trees are laid on it, and there is no need to strip the bark from the round coniferous timber; unnecessary cracks may appear. When processing the ends, lime, edible salt solution or liquid glue are used, this is necessary to protect against rot. With this method, of course, the wood will take a long time to dry depending on the weather, humidity, and the thickness of the logs or boards. Depending on the breed, drying lasts:

1. coniferous and soft deciduous - from 1 to 1.5 years;
2. hard - from 2 years.

Boiling and steaming

In ancient times, when only wooden utensils were in use, they already knew how to dry wood and used wood drying methods such as steaming and boiling. In short, we can say that wooden blanks for cooking utensils were boiled. During the steaming process - in vegetable (linseed) oil for 5-6 hours, the moisture should be displaced by the oil. And after this, the material must be dried under the sun's rays.

During the digestion process, the workpieces were boiled in water, depending on the volume of water and the original workpiece. And then you need to dry them inside a cool room. Each technology has its own subtleties and nuances.

Drying with newspapers and straw

For small pieces of wood, a suitable method is when they are wrapped in dry newspaper and packed in a plastic bag, then, as they become moisturized, the newspaper is changed to dry, and so on several times. This can take 3 to 4 weeks, you can make the newspaper layer thicker to speed it up, but wood tends to crack if it dries too quickly. To speed up drying, you can place the blanks in newspaper in a warm place, for example, on radiators. Change the newspapers every 2-3 hours, but you need to make sure that cracks do not appear. In this case, you can leave it on the battery at night and remove it during the day.

Drying with straw is carried out according to the same principle, the only difference is that it must be carried out in the open air, building a canopy to protect it from moisture. There is a big plus here in that there is no need to change the straw every day, it dries itself. An alternative to straw can be sawdust or dry shavings.

There are other ways to dry wood:

1. using a microwave oven, for small chicks;
2. drying in sand;
3. under the influence of an electric field, placed between the electrodes;
4. by burying it in grain closer to spring.

	Purpose of dried wood
1st high quality	Precision engineering and instrument making, production of models, aircraft parts, skis, musical instruments, etc.
2nd high quality	Furniture production, etc.
3rd average quality	Production of windows and doors, milled parts - boards for flooring, trim, skirting boards
4th Private	Production of parts and products for low-rise buildings and sets of parts for houses with walls made from local materials, building structures, etc.

How to dry wood

In this article I want to talk about a method of harvesting wood that is suitable for both carvers and sculptors and woodworkers of other professions.

In our Club there are many who begin their journey in carving art, and they naturally face the question of preparation and choice of material. Particularly problematic is the preparation of hardwood and fruit trees with the least loss of material volume, the number of cracks and a simultaneous reduction in the drying time of the workpieces, without resorting to the use of special equipment and inaccessible equipment. The recipe, passed down from generation to generation, is relatively accessible to everyone, is intended for all hardwoods, and can be implemented without special costs or equipment.

1. Procurement of material

Tree cutting is usually carried out during the period of lowest sap content in the trunk - from the end of November to mid-February. For convenience, branches and twigs are cut off first, then the main trunk is felled. After this, the bark is removed (it is convenient to do this with a bayonet shovel; you must first cut the end of the blade and, having sharpened the bevel, use it like a straight chisel - this method is more effective than traditional processing with a plow) and sawed into lumps - round timber of the required sizes, depending on the author's ideas. At this stage, the workpiece needs to be marked somehow, for example, a notch can be made at the edge of the end of the butt side of the trunk. This fact should be recorded in a notebook for memory, so as not to get confused in the future.

2. Boiling of workpieces

The point of the next stage is that the method of boiling in boiling water accelerates the process of removing intracellular sap from the tree. For this purpose, you will need a container; a regular linen boiler may be suitable (a woodworker I know made a 2.5-meter long stainless steel case for boiling down boards and installed electric heaters in it). In our case, the heating source can be a household stove, a Russian stove, or a fire. If the author has formed an idea - an image of the future work - then it is advisable to make a rough cut on the workpiece and you can also drill a through hole in the center from end to end, followed by sealing with round plugs. This technique will speed up the rate of juice removal and reduce or eliminate the occurrence of cracks.

If the workpieces turn out to be longer than the size of the container itself, then by placing them vertically, you can turn them up and down during the digestion process. After placing the material in the container, pour water, bring to a boil and cook for 3 to 4 hours. To make the process more efficient, you can add table salt to the water (4–5 tablespoons per 1 liter of water), but if the work is to be done in carving technique, then it is better to exclude salt, since it crystallizes and the incisors become dull very quickly. But if the wood is processed by milling and abrasives, then in this case, boiling with salt is advisable.

The liquid remaining in the container after cooking, for example from pear wood, can be used as a stain. There is also an old way to remove intracellular fluid. The logs are placed in a reservoir with running water so that the butt part of the trunks is turned towards the flow. The reason for this arrangement lies in the structure and properties of the capillary-vascular system of trees.

3. Preliminary removal of liquid

The next stage is the preliminary removal of liquid from the wood. We will need an unheated, unlit room; if there is a window, then it should be properly closed - draped to prevent a possible ray of light from hitting the surface of the tree without creating conditions for cracks to occur. The room must have a concrete floor; a basement is best. As you know, concrete has the property of absorbing moisture. Now we take our pieces of wood, find the notches and marks and place each piece on the concrete with the butt side up and the top down. This technique is due to the creation of a more intensive removal of moisture from our workpieces. As is known, moisture passes in an upward translational motion through capillary vessels located in the structure of the tree trunk, from the roots to the top. Micro-chamber vessels turned “upside down” continue to perform their function effortlessly in a more comfortable mode and release liquid to the insatiable concrete. The efficiency thereby increases, and we speed up the process and eliminate the occurrence of cracks in the workpieces. The duration of this procedure takes 2–3 weeks (depending on the size of the material).

4. Ventilation–withering

The ends of the tree will need to be protected. This can be done by painting the surface of the ends with oil paint and sealing it with paper. I prefer to cover with heated tar (it’s more thorough). We choose a place in the open air, preferably on the north side of a building and under a canopy (from rain, snow and sun). We stack the pieces of wood on top of each other in a “well”.

Wood logs that are related to each other, from the same tree, placed in one pile, dry better. This process takes at least one month. The longer the natural withering method, the greater the guarantee to avoid cracks in the future. After this, you can continue drying in a room with room (residential) heating mode, occasionally ventilating.

Consistent implementation of all preparatory stages and strict adherence to the conditions of this cycle guarantees time-shortened and high-quality drying of hardwood and fruit trees.

5. If you don’t have a moisture meter at hand

At a distance of 2.5–3 cm from the end of the board, a block is sawed across the grain, which is cut from the sides to 15 cm. The block is carefully weighed and then dried in an oven or oven at a temperature of approximately 100 degrees for 4–5 hours or on a central radiator heating for 48 hours.

The dried block is weighed again. The resulting difference is divided by the dry weight of the wood and multiplied by 100 to give the percentage moisture content.

For example, it had a mass of 200 g, after drying - 150 g, the difference is 50 g. Dividing 50 by 150 and multiplying the result by 100, we get: (50/150) x 100 = 33% humidity.

To prevent the product from warping, the moisture content of the wood must correspond to the humidity of the surrounding atmosphere. Therefore, for interior crafts, in particular furniture, it is recommended to take wood with a moisture content of 6-12%, and for external work - even up to 25%.