LED lamp socket g4 12V connection. Wholesale online store of Chinese goods. Pros and cons of using the G4 light bulb

Surely, many owners of chandeliers or spotlights with halogen bulbs have more than once thought about replacing them with LED analogues. Mainly due to significant energy savings. However, it is not always possible to assess in advance whether such an exchange is really necessary. And in this article I want to show in practice what gives Replacing halogen lamps with LED lamps using the example of light bulbs with G4 socket.

Here are different types of light bulbs, but all with g4 socket

The top row shows halogen and LED bulbs for 220V, and the bottom row contains the same representatives, but for 12V. It is clearly noticeable that the dimensions of 220V lamps are slightly larger than 12V lamps.

Two types of LED light bulbs with a G4 socket - on the left is a light bulb with a single powerful LED and a diffuse lens, and on the right is a lamp with many LEDs, popularly called “corn”

What will we get from replacing a G4 halogen bulb with an LED one?

If we take a closer look at halogen and LED lamps, we will see that the filament in a halogen lamp is located closer to the base. While the emitting LED in an LED lamp is located much further from the base. As a result, we get a completely different lighting halo when using different types of lamps.

The left lampshade with a halogen lamp is fully illuminated,
while the LED light in the right lamp only illuminates its outer edge

Here the halogen light also brightly illuminates the entire chandelier shade,
and the LED bulb does not illuminate the lampshade at all

For now, the advantages of halogen lamps are obvious, but we will not rush to conclusions and will continue our experiments on replacing halogen lamps with LED ones.

Let's compare halogen light bulbs designed for 220V and 12V.

On the left, the 220V halogen lamp glows yellow,
and on the right the 12V halogen produces a white light that appears brighter.

Perhaps for this reason, most chandeliers and spotlights with compact shades and a G4 base are designed specifically for 12-volt halogens.

Let's look at how LED lamps of different voltages behave.

On the left, the 220V LED corn lamp lights up yellow,
and on the right is a lamp with a diffuse lens, but at 12V it gives white light

Important points when replacing a halogen lamp with an LED lamp with a g4 base

When replacing a halogen lamp with an LED analogue, it is necessary to take into account the following, in my opinion, the most important feature. A halogen lamp is essentially an incandescent lamp that shines in all directions. And the LED emits light only in one direction, which in space looks like a light cone. This is why almost all single LED bulbs have a diffuser lens. However, for some types of spotlights and chandeliers, a diffuse lens may not be effective. In this case, an omnidirectional LED corn lamp can partially correct the situation.

A striking example of comparing halogen and LED lamps in a chandelier with small shades

Now let’s compare the shape and size of the light spots produced by LED lamps of different designs.

In the photo from left to right: LED corn lamp, LED lamp with one LED and a diffuser lens, LED lamp with one LED but without a diffuser lens

As you can see, in this case, at the same power, a redistribution of the light flux occurs. In corn lamps, the luminous flux is close to a halogen lamp, and lamps with and without a lens have an increasingly concentrated luminous flux. This causes the illumination directly below the luminaire to appear stronger, while the overall illumination of the room appears insufficient.

Therefore, in this particular case, it is advisable to replace halogen lamps with LED “corn” lamps only in connection with the opportunity to save money on electricity.

In some types of lamps, due to the shape of the lampshade, even a halogen lamp sticks out, and when using its LED analogue, the protrusion of the light source becomes even more noticeable. When turned on, there is a change in brightness, and for the worse.

The central lampshades are illuminated by halogen lamps, which stick out slightly, the remaining lampshades are illuminated by LED lamps with one LED

Here we cannot say that it has become darker; rather, a redistribution of light has occurred. The stains on the ceiling have disappeared, the glass elements are less filled with light, however, under the chandelier itself there is more than enough light, which cannot be said about the room itself. It's all due to the direction of the LED glow.

The pitfall of replacing halogen lamps with LED lamps

When replacing halogen lamps with LED lamps, the following feature was discovered: 220V LED lamps shine brighter than 12V lamps with the same power and luminous flux. What causes this anomaly, since the LED itself is a low-voltage device and operates on several volts, just remember the famous LED strips?

Let's try to figure it out. LEDs operate on constant current. LED lamps designed for 220V inside have a miniature rectifier with a stabilizer, so they can operate on alternating voltage. In 12V LED lamps there is no rectifier, but there is always a diode bridge, which allows you not to worry about the switching polarity, but does not provide the declared brightness when operating on alternating current. Therefore, 12V LED lamps must operate on constant current, which can be provided by a special power supply or LED driver. And in halogen lamps, where we want to replace the lamp with an LED one, a special transformer is installed to power low-voltage halogen lamps, which is not intended for LEDs. That is, additional costs are required to purchase and replace the transformer with an LED driver.

LED drivers for LED lamps and transformer for halogen lamps

What to do? Either come to terms with it and use higher-power analogues, or, best of all, replace that same “halogen” transformer with an LED power supply. But then you need to change all the lamps from the chandelier at once, not forgetting the design features of LED lamps.

When I was just planning to replace the halogen light bulbs in my apartment with LED ones, I watched several videos that were clearly in favor of LED sources, but in practice it turned out not to be so simple. Replacing halogen bulbs with LED ones does not always make the room brighter - the shape and size of the spotlight itself or the lampshade in the chandelier plays a big role here. I hope my article helped you decide whether you need such a replacement.

There is a good table lamp. It contains a halogen light bulb with a G4 base and 12V. Something like this

Moreover, the light bulb is protected by a glass shield. That, however, did not prevent the daughter from touching the shield with her finger and getting burned. I scratched my head - shouldn't I replace it with an LED with the same base? I googled it and got upset. It turns out that the so-called halogen lamps are widely used. electronic transformers not suitable for LEDs. People write en masse about replacing them with LED lamps specially designed for power supply. Okay, extra money - 10 bucks won't make a difference. But first of all, the base of the lamp where the transformer is inserted is quite compact and a replacement will not fit. And secondly, and even more importantly, the most ordinary trance standing there on an W-shaped core, with its significant weight, makes the lamp stable. If I replace it, it will fall.

Sadness...

I started making things up. The first thing that comes to mind, of course, is to leave the trans only for weight and find a 220B lamp. And the Chinese found them. And then in Leroy there is one, at 220B. It can be seen that in front of the LEDs there is a chip with 4 legs. The markings are not visible, but of course - a diode bridge (they sell it in chip and dip for 11 rubles). The LEDs themselves are clearly connected in series.

Looks like this is the solution! But, after thinking about it, I discarded this idea. Nobody promised me that the wire and base in which I now have a 12V halogen are designed for 220. That is, change. And this is a disproportionate gimor. We are looking further.

I found the same diode bridge on the chip and dipstick, tiny, it will fit in without any questions. I set out to study the choice of the necessary piping, a smoothing capacitor at least. And I came across a mention of 12 volt AC/DC lamps! Stsuko, that’s exactly what I need! Now, I know, I’m looking in the same Leroy - there is one for 12V AC/DC. No wonder I didn’t notice it right away - the title LED lamp WOLTA 2.5W 210Lm G4 12V warm. And it’s only written about AC/DC in the picture with the packaging! Stsuko, how tired I am of the widespread dominance of C students! Well, okay, imbeciles were recruited by advertisement to work in the hall; I haven’t spent time talking to them for many years. But a huge network made a catalog for itself on the website. Didn’t it really surprise you that they forgot to mention the operating voltage in the table of lamp characteristics? Printed in huge letters on the box, motherfucker.

PT415 is clearly readable on the chip. Which is easy to Google. The first assignment line is for replacing halogens with LEDs. The microcircuit even supports dimming - but it was not used in this assembly. I'm going to buy food.

I bought it, the only thing is that I mixed up warm and cold light, but it’s even better in a table lamp. Interestingly, the light bulb does not have a bulb as such. Filled with transparent plastic resin.

As expected, in a lamp with a real transformer with an W-shaped core, it burns perfectly. True, as expected, it does not respond to changes in the input voltage (there are two taps on the trance - for the maximum brightness of the halogen and a weaker one).

At the same time, I tested it in a closet, where there are three halogen lights in the visor. There is an electronic "transformer". Everything is as people write. If there is at least one halogen, the LED lights up perfectly. If there is only one LED left, it lights up brightly, but flickers. So you will have to either leave the halogens or buy an LED driver. It’s good that there’s enough space at the top of the closet.

UPD from September 17, 2016 My wife said that the brightness in the table lamp is not enough. 2.5 W bulb, maybe... I found a 10 W LED bulb with 600 lm. Most of them are 5 and 300. Now there is enough light.

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LED light sources with base G4, are the smallest and quite economical compared to similar ones. Due to its shape and low energy consumption, this type of lamp is widely used in various fields of human activity. One of the main tasks LED lamps with G4 socket is a replacement for halogen light sources.

Firms offer the user a high-quality and economical option LED lamps. These companies were able to place a large number of LEDs in a small housing, which has the same parameters as a halogen lamp. By using many economical LEDs, manufacturers were able to obtain an economical lamp that can produce a very high luminous flux. Due to this, LED lamp with G4 socket On average, it has a power of 3W, and the luminous flux it produces reaches 200Lm. Halogen lamp to obtain such a luminous flux it must have a power of about 10W, and therefore it becomes unprofitable compared to an LED light source.

They are mainly used in shops, hotels, lobbies, restaurants, any public places, and are also widely used in human everyday activities. Due to its minimal size, this type of lamp is often used by designers to create lighting effects. There are a lot of light compositions, wall or ceiling, where they are used to create a pattern or frame. LED lamps with G4 socket. Also, these lamps do not emit heat during operation, which means that they can be used to illuminate objects that critically respond to thermal influences.

Mainly due to this property, such LED bulbs used in museums to illuminate paper or other exhibits. Also, due to the lack of heat generation during operation, this type of lamp is widely used by shops and restaurants that illuminate food or various prepared foods.

Installation LED lamps is very easy to do because base G4 these are just two metal pins that need to be inserted into the groove of the cartridge. When replacing with an LED light source, the user does not need to install the socket to the electrical network, but simply remove and insert the diode.

LED lamp with G4 socket Compared to that, it does not have an ignition stage, and the user instantly receives 100% luminous flux. Halogen lamp when turned on, it cannot immediately produce a full luminous flux; also, during operation, this lamp loses performance, which is expressed in the loss of intensity of the transmitted light beam. LED lamp has no such problems. Life time LED lamp 15 times more than halogen light sources. This means that when using halogen lamps, the user will constantly incur expenses for new light sources, as well as constantly pay for their installation, which is irrational and much easier to use LED lamp, which does not require this maintenance and costs.

Today there is adaptive xenon on sale with lamps and AC and DC ignition units. This is the same xenon, but it has some differences that you, as a buyer and user, should definitely be aware of. This material is dedicated to AC and DC xenon, features, differences and much more that will be useful to know.

Introductory part about xenon AC and DC

At first glance, it is impossible to distinguish between AC and DC ignition units. Their main difference is that AC are ignition units that have alternating current, and DC are direct. The difference between these two xenons can be noticed during their operation, or more precisely during ignition and maintenance of the glow discharge. The flickering of the lamps is indicated by the DC ignition units.

In order to specifically understand the differences between AC and DC xenon, you need to know their design. Such kits are strikingly different precisely in the principle of operation, which is the most important for this device in lighting technology for cars. As already noted, their operating principle is visible at the moment the xenon lamp is ignited and combustion is maintained. In order to form an electric arc between the electrodes in the lamp bulb, a powerful pulse is required, that is, a current of up to 25,000 V.

After the source starts burning, to maintain the functioning of the lamp, a continuous supply of current with a voltage of 80-85 V is necessary, and this is monitored by a controller, which is built into the ignitor’s ballast. This is the standard operating principle of xenon lamp ignition units. AC units have an ignitor (inverter) and a stably operating stabilizer, unlike DC kits.

DC ignition unit kits: lamp ignition principle

Adaptive ignition units and xenon lamps with direct current DC have a significantly lower cost, light weight and small dimensions. They provide a single and non-cyclic discharge, which often leads to a jitter of the electric arc and flickering of the light of the xenon source. In order to properly activate the xenon lamp, a second pulse is required, which takes an additional few seconds while waiting for the current to be supplied again. Note that the DC system is much better in quality than halogen, but is still inferior to AC kits with alternating current.

AC ignition unit kits: lamp ignition principle

Xenon ignition units and lamps with alternating current AC work much more stable and better, since they are equipped with a special stabilizer that equalizes the voltage. AC units create pulses of the required frequency and power, which ensures uninterrupted and stable light output from the lamps. In order to create an oscillation amplitude in AC blocks and lamps, special ignitors (sometimes may be called inverters) are used, which ensure the conversion of low-voltage current into a high-voltage pulse and vice versa. Thus, from the vehicle’s on-board network voltage of 12 V (sometimes 24 V), a current of 25,000 V is generated, which guarantees ignition of the xenon emitter in a matter of seconds. It is worth noting that the AC units have two-way communication with xenon lamps, so if the light starts to go out, the unit provides a high-voltage pulse so as not to lead to deactivation of the emitter. Thus, the adaptive xenon AC kits operate more stably, and there are no flickering lamps or voltage surges.

Be carefull!

It often happens that when purchasing ignition units from unscrupulous sellers, for example at bazaars, or in basement stores, buyers encounter fraud. Many people cheat and install a dummy inverter into DC ignition units and pass them off as AC, naturally at an order of magnitude higher cost. That is why, purchase adaptive xenon kits only from trusted sellers who guarantee high quality products and always provide a guarantee for any purchased kits.