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Safety stations. Belay stations Types and methods of organizing belay stations in the mountains. Preparing to organize the top rope

How many points do you need to set up a belay station? Most climbers will respond faster than they can blink. But if you answered “two” or “three,” then you are wrong.

A station needs so many points to be reliable, depending on: rock quality, positioning, angle, and other factors. In the mountains, where speed and efficiency are everything, the station can sometimes be done on one point, and sometimes you can even use your body as a point - while belaying through the back or lower back. However, weak or broken rocks, which are often found in the mountains, may require four, five or even six points to create a secure safety station.

Organizing a station at two points is quite simple, uniform distribution of the load is achieved quite easily, but if there are 3 or more points, then this is a difficult task.

It is almost impossible to achieve an even distribution of the load across 3 or more safety points, and very often there is no way to determine in advance which of the safety points will be the “weakest” and most unreliable. That is why classic compensation loops or compensation loops with limiting nodes are not convenient for organizing belay stations at 3 or more points.

This article examines the organization of belay stations in difficult conditions on complex and unreliable terrain. In these conditions best choice are "cascade" belay stations that will not only help you on broken or weak rocks, but also offer many solutions for any other difficult situations when organizing stations.

A huge advantage of “cascade” stations is that you have solutions for a wide variety of situations using a limited set of equipment (cordlets and loops of various lengths). Many instructors and guides recommend that beginners work with "cascade" stations because they will lay a solid understanding and foundation of what a station is and how it should work. Once the climber begins to understand this, he can begin to experiment with other systems (organizing rope stations, etc.).

Legend to the drawings. Green color- cordelet. Red color-fixed station. Blue color- compensating mini stations.

Option 1: Use a cordellet.

A cordelet is better suited than a stitched loop for the correct distribution of load in a three-point station; when using a cordelet, friction in the central carabiner is reduced and the distribution of load on the points is improved. But when the cordelet is tied in a closed loop, you may not have enough length of the cordelet - the branches of the station will turn out to be too short, which can lead to the formation of an “obtuse” angle in the station, which is unacceptable. If you have three points or more in the station, in order to properly distribute the load - untie your cordelette. Once you have untied the loop, tie a figure eight knot at each end. Next, secure the knots to the outer points, click the middle into the middle ones, and then bring all the strands together in the direction of the expected load and tie it all with a conductor or figure-eight knot. (Fig. 1). When you're done, it will look like a standard pre-aligned (fixed) cordelet station.

It is important to remember that it will not be possible to achieve uniform distribution of loads across all points of insurance. For a station at four points, the shorter and double central branches of the station will transmit to each internal point not 25%, as would be the case in an ideal world, but approximately 30-35% of the total load on the station, and only 15-20% to external points.

The advantages of this configuration are the ability to use one cordelet to combine several points remote from each other and the absence of a jerk and extension of the station in the event of failure of one of the points.

Option 2: Cascade stations. With fixed mini stations.

Sometimes even an untied cordellet does not give you enough length to organize a station with the correct load distribution on the points. This is exactly the moment when “cascade” stations become indispensable, because provide the opportunity to organize a station and level the loads at 3 or even 8 insurance points.

The base is a series of fixed stations, tied with loops and/or cord, that overlap each other.

The advantages of this method are the ability to organize a station if you do not have a cordelet, but only short loops, and the absence of a jerk and extension of the station in case of failure of one of the points.


Option A. The simplest “cascade” stations can be organized at three belay points using two sewn loops. At the top two points, set up a standard fixed station (the knot is slightly tilted towards the third point). The next loop connects the third point and the knot on the first loop. Pull both strands down in the direction of the expected pull and tie a figure eight or conductor knot (Fig. 2).

Option B. A more difficult option is when you have four or more points. In this option, each pair or triple of belay points are combined into a fixed station, which are then also combined using a sewn loop or cordelette. (Fig. 2.1) If the quality of the rocks is very poor and the points are unreliable, you can continue to organize mini stations and combine them into groups.

Option 3: Cascade stations with mini stations and an overhand unit. (Oak knot)

You may find that you don't have lines long enough to create a fixed station, in which case tie an overhand knot instead of a figure eight knot. It is important to correctly assess the direction of application of the load and choose the place to tie the knot. When loading, both branches of the mini station must be loaded. The carabiner for connecting to the next cascade is snapped into the resulting loops on both sides of the knot. This way you get a fixed mini station. (Fig. 3). Further actions are similar to those described in option A.

You could try using a classic compensation loop if your loop is too short, but that's not very good idea for cascade stations. If one of the points in a station with a compensation loop fails, it will have too great an impact on neighboring points. The failure of one point in the compensation station will not simply create a shock load on the remaining points, but will lead to the complete loss of all points of the mini station.

That is why the use of compensation loops in cascade stations is not recommended.

Important! The use of compensation loops in conventional belay stations is limited and is only recommended if you organize the stations at very secure points (bolts or ice screws).

Any combination of the described methods is also possible. (Figure 4.)

Thanks: for the title photo to Igor Ivashur, for assistance in preparing the drawings to Ilya Gladky and the Vento company.


The safety chain consists of: a belayer, a belayer's self-belay, a belay station, a belay device, intermediate belay points, a belay system, carabiners and a rope that connects it all.

The main rule when choosing equipment for organizing a safety chain is to use equipment that is manufactured, tested and certified specifically for the task.

That's why is strictly prohibited use a static rope for bottom belay and Not recommended use tape mustaches for self-belaying and daisy chain type self-belaying for aids. But even the use of certified equipment does not provide guarantees - the use of equipment with errors or the use of erroneous techniques is also very dangerous.

Let's consider the forces that act on different elements of the safety chain during a fall.

Attention! In all calculations, we assume the weight of the person who has fallen is 80 kg, but we must remember that if the weight of the person who has fallen is greater than 80 kg, the efforts will increase significantly. For example, if the jerk with a fall weight of 80 kg and a jerk factor of 1.7 (this is the standard for testing according to the UIAA) is 8.3 kN, then with a fall weight of 114 kg and similar other conditions, the jerk will be 11.1 kN, which is very close to the established The UIAA safety limit for a breakaway is 12 kN. And the main thing is that in this case, a force of more than 18 kN will be applied to the intermediate belay point, which is far beyond the strength limit for any belay equipment except stationary (bolt) hooks. Therefore, you should pay the most serious attention to the weight of the leader, and give yourself a truthful answer - how much you weigh with all your clothes, backpack, equipment, bivouac, etc. Your safety directly depends on this answer. By assessing the weight of the person who has fallen off, you can estimate the maximum jerk factor, a fall with which will not injure the person who has fallen off and will not lead to the destruction of the safety chain.

According to safety standards UIAA The jerk force on the person who has fallen under any conditions should not exceed 12 kN; almost all modern ropes guarantee (for a new and dry rope) that this force will not exceed 9 kN. It should be remembered that the force of the jerk on the person who has fallen depends on his weight, the jerk factor and the quality of the rope (its stretchability) and DOES NOT DEPEND from the depth of the fall. A lot has been written on this topic - you can look at the calculations here or here .

This force affects the person who has fallen through safety system, the strength of which is according to standards UIAA is at least 15 kN, which is quite sufficient and gives an almost double safety margin. (Discussion of using only lower or full belay systems is beyond the scope of this article; the pros and cons of each option have been discussed many times, and each climber makes the choice for himself depending on the route and situation. UIAA recommends using a lower safety system - a gazebo.)

A situation in which the carabiner turns around during a jerk, and the force is applied to the carabiner across the long axis, will most likely lead to the destruction of the carabiner, rupture of the safety chain and loss of insurance. A conventional carabiner can withstand, when a load is applied across the long axis, from 7 to 9 kN, which does not leave any margin of safety during a heavy jerk. The practice of attaching to a safety rope with a carabiner is especially dangerous precisely where it has become widespread - on simple routes among novice climbers and among mountain tourists. Both often use static or just old ropes (despite the fact that this is unacceptable) and hike and climb with heavy backpacks. The classic excuse is “the route is simple - there’s nowhere to fall,” but using an old or static rope, when falling 1-2 meters with a jerk factor of 1, the jerk force can significantly exceed the strength of the carabiner.

Safety rope. Today this is one of the most reliable parts of the safety chain; modern standards do not even stipulate its strength; the strength of the maximum jerk is a much more important factor. All modern ropes guarantee that the load on the person who has fallen off the hook with a load weight of 80 kg and a jerk factor of 1.77 is no more than 9 kN, which leaves a reserve for the aging of the rope, its getting wet, etc., in any conditions the jerk will not exceed the established one UIAA safety limit of 12 kN. According to independent tests, the strength of modern static and dynamic ropes is at least 15 kN with a figure eight knot. Which again gives an almost double safety margin. When using ropes like Half(double, half) or Twin(double) also increases the reliability of the safety chain from breaking the rope with stones or from breaking on a sharp edge. Strength and dynamic characteristics of Half and Twin are not inferior to the characteristics of single ropes.

Forces acting on the intermediate belay point.

According to the law of addition of forces, a force equal to 1.66 times the force that acts on the person who has fallen acts on the upper intermediate point of the belay. The coefficient of 1.66 arises due to the fact that part of the jerk force is spent on overcoming the friction force in the carbine; if there were no friction force, then a force equal to double the jerk force would act on the point. This factor makes the upper intermediate point the most loaded and, accordingly, the weakest link in the safety chain. Look at your equipment, you do not have any of the devices for organizing intermediate belay points (with the exception of ice screws) that can withstand a jerk of 15 kN, which occurs at the intermediate point with a jerk force of 9 kN. And these are only the passport characteristics of the equipment, which do not take into account the fragility of the rock and errors when installing equipment on the terrain.

It should also be remembered that the practical factor of the jerk is often higher than the theoretical one - friction of the rope on the terrain, friction in the carabiners reduce the ability of the rope to absorb the energy of a fall. Based on this knowledge, failures with a jerk factor > 1 are possible only when using stationary (bolt) hooks, the strength of which is in the range from 18 to 22 kN, as intermediate belay points.

Climbing carabiners, loops and quickdraws withstand a load of at least 22 kN, which is sufficient for use anywhere in the safety chain. Attention! Despite the fact that loops and guys have the necessary safety margin, it should be remembered that their dynamic characteristics differ little from those of a steel cable. This is especially noticeable on short guys, the main length of which is made up of stitching in three layers of tape and safety stations, in which the loops are used folded 2, 4 or even 6 times. An increase in the number of simultaneously loaded branches leads to a significant decrease in the dynamic characteristics of the loop. Safety device. Standard for belay/belay devices UIAA introduced only in 2012; devices released before that time were tested only by the manufacturer. Independent tests have shown that a regular “eight” can withstand a load of more than 30 kN; devices such as the reverse and Sticht washer also have the necessary safety margin. To date UIAA recommends for mountaineering devices based on the Sticht Washer principle (glass, basket, reverse, ATX-XP, ATX-XP Guide etc.), devices of the “eight” type are considered “old school” devices in the catalogs of many companies.

Reverso-type belaying/descending devices have a set of undeniable advantages compared to “eights” - they do not twist the rope, allow you to work normally with a double rope on the descent and when belaying, allow you to organize automatic fixation of the rope when belaying the second one, make it possible to organize safe and comfortable climbing in three and much more. On the contrary, in the practice of using figure eights in Russia, a very dangerous stereotype has developed - the figure eight rope is threaded through a carabiner, and not through the “neck” of the device.

This use case is only suitable for static and “oak” ropes of unknown origin, which can only be used for top ropes and handrails. When belaying with a modern “soft” dynamic rope, this type of use leads to belaying “through a carabiner,” which is absolutely unacceptable, since it does not provide the necessary level of rope braking and, accordingly, is not safe.

The second common mistake is to clip the belay/belay device into two loops on the harness. Manufacturers of equipment clearly indicate the only correct method - attaching it to a power loop. When using the first method, the belay/belay device is incorrectly oriented in space and the load is regularly applied to the carabiner coupling. In both cases, working with the devices becomes more difficult and the danger increases.

Important! Tying to the safety rope is done through TWO loops. The belay device is attached to the power loop. Also very dangerous is the widespread method of intercepting the rope when belaying.


The right way.



A common mistake is that the belayer moves far from the route when using the bottom belay; if the leader falls off, this will lead to the belayer being pulled back, dragged towards the rock, hit, and possibly losing the belay. To avoid this, especially at the beginning of a climb when a fall with a high jerk factor is possible, the belayer should be under the route so that the jerk hits him in the UP direction.

The belayer’s ability to hold the leader during a fall will increase if he assesses in advance the direction of the jerk, the possibility of his contact with the terrain during the jerk, and takes measures to reduce the likelihood of impacts. One of the most simple methods is the choice of the correct pose - with emphasis on the relief, and changing the safety hand, so that when you hit the relief, the hand controlling the rope is not injured or pinched.

Safety station. The main quality of a belay station is its reliability - the ability to withstand a jerk of the maximum possible force. This characteristic is achieved by distributing the load over several insurance points and the presence of duplication/safety - which ensure that the station performs its functions in the event of failure of one or more elements. Organizing stations at one point is possible only if it is an absolutely reliable point - a monolithic rock ledge, a reliable living tree, etc. Organizing a station at one stationary hook (bolt) is unacceptable!

Recommendations for organizing a belay station are set out in sufficient detail in the work “Organization of belay stations” in accordance with the recommendations thereof. Mountaineering Union DAV" and many other manuals. You can see here


For me, the recommendations for installing a belay device directly on a belay station with a lower belay look quite controversial. When belaying the second one - the top belay, such fastening of the belay device to the station is indeed very convenient and reliable way, especially when using reverse-type devices in auto-locking mode. But the disadvantages of insuring the leader, in my opinion, outweigh the possible advantages.

In English-language sources, the requirements for insurance stations are often denoted by different abbreviations - SRENE, EARNEST, IDEAL, etc.

The essence of them all comes down to several general principles:

1) Reliability of all elements (points and ligament material)
2) Redundancy - elements must be duplicated
3) Leveling - the total load on the station should be evenly distributed to all points
4) Failure of one of the points should not lead to a large “subsidence” of the entire station

Of course, compliance with all the rules is just an ideal to which we must strive. Real conditions are too diverse and do not always provide the opportunity to fulfill absolutely all requirements. However, the options discussed below may help you choose the best alternative.

Some advice from Cyril Chocopleux, President of the Canadian Mountain Guides Association:

When organizing stations, the influence of the reliability of each individual point on the reliability of the system as a whole is often overlooked. A retrospective analysis of accidents gives cause for concern. Suffice it to say that several people have died and many others have been injured by ignoring the recommendations below:

1. Do not rely on using communications from unreliable points for your main station. Use the biggest and strongest tools you have and make sure your points are placed in solid rock. Small and medium primary points are much less reliable than large ones. Trying to distribute the load across several weak points gives you a weak station. Don't rely on equalization or load sharing alone. Use strong primary points whenever possible.

2. Place a reliable point close to the station. Don't consider it just one of many intermediate points. In fact, it is an integral part of your belay station. Several years ago I witnessed a climber fall directly onto the station. The station was completely destroyed and the entire bunch flew 200-300 meters down the couloir. Both miraculously survived, although they suffered serious injuries. A reliable first waypoint might have prevented the destruction of the station entirely.

3. Do not use a daisy chain for self-belaying - it is not a safe practice. Daisy chain is a relatively static component. Several accidents in the US and Europe have been directly linked to the use of daisy chains as a primary means of self-insurance. All daisy chain manufacturers warn against this. Tests showed clear gaps during very short drops on the daisy chain. It is also very easy to mistakenly use a daisy chain in such a way that even the slightest load will cause the lanyard to fail completely.

4. Many tests have confirmed that nylon cord with a diameter of 7mm is the optimal material for most types of climbing stations. It provides good dynamic qualities, has better resistance to sharp bends, is durable, and is quite strong. Most new high-tech fibers do not have all these qualities, especially in the area of ​​dynamic loading. They are less durable and perform worse on sharp rock edges. Despite their high overall strength, the new fibers can fail you in certain situations.

5. Remember that the jerk of a fall is not necessarily vertical up and down. Carefully consider the possible directions of the jerk and arrange the station accordingly.

Experienced hikers and climbers know that often only the presence of a rope and special equipment can make the route accessible and relatively safe to pass. Most trekking routes around the world allow you to navigate them without using a rope. Sometimes, in dangerous places on the routes, special cables, brackets or railings are secured.

In such cases, a helmet, protective gloves, and sometimes a harness and lanyards are sufficient for safe movement. This equipment has already been discussed in previous articles.

But on difficult hikes or climbs, rugged terrain may require more equipment. First of all, this is a rope and means of descending and ascending along it, as well as everything necessary for insurance. In this article I want to talk only about the most basic points that will make it easier for a beginner to take his first steps in the world of extreme tourism, especially if he takes them without detailed training from an instructor. After all, it often happens that tourists are faced with the use of such technical means on commercial climbs, where one guide/instructor for several people does not have the opportunity to provide quality training.

Rope

Depending on the possibility of use, there are two types - main And auxiliary . Main rope is used for:

  1. insurance,
  2. hanging railings,
  3. with its help, participants move in places with difficult terrain.

Auxiliary rope (rep cord, paracord) is used for:

  1. bivouac organization,
  2. on the construction of crossings,
  3. insurance of personal belongings and equipment,
  4. insurance of participants by making the so-called prusik (Prusik knot),
  5. rescue operations and other situations.

For both types of use it is better to use only certified products whose performance meets or exceeds what is required in each situation. This rule is must be strictly observed for all applications related to the safety of participants.

The main rope is of two types - dynamic(“dynamics”) and static("statics").

Dynamic rope manufactured in such a way as to stretch significantly under significant load. In this way, smooth shock absorption is achieved. The invention of dynamic rope has greatly improved safety in the world of extreme sports. The person using it suffers significantly less damage from a violent fall than when using a static rope.

It should be understood that stretch rope also has its disadvantages for certain types of use, primarily as vertical or horizontal railings, tension crossings, and lifting heavy loads. The “elastic band” effect makes using the rope in such cases inconvenient. In addition, dynamic rope is not a cheap pleasure.

In such cases it is irreplaceable static rope. Commercial routes to the world's highest mountains, such as Everest, install kilometers of rope ropes every year. As a rule, from static ropes. They are more convenient, cheaper, and have very high wear resistance. Rope railings are also used when hiking Elbrus, its highest, western peak.

All types of ropes now have a strong, wear-resistant upper braid, and inside they consist of a large number of durable fibers. The braid is usually made in bright colors. If you need several ropes, use different colors to avoid confusion. The condition of the rope must be carefully monitored; in the mountains it can become damaged due to exposure to aggressive environmental factors and human factor. The instructor must assess the nature of the damage to the rope. For a beginner, it is better to immediately abandon the idea of ​​​​using a damaged rope.

Today the average diameter of the main rope is about a centimeter. This thickness provides a balance of strength and wear resistance on the one hand, and weight, compactness and ease of use on the other. IN last decade There has been some tendency towards a decrease in the diameter of dynamic ropes. However, a single main rope is rarely thinner than 9mm.

Belaying with a rope

The points related to self-insurance were considered. On difficult terrain, self-belaying alone is often not enough. Then the group is divided into bundles, in which the participants belay each other with a rope, being tied by it.

Insurance can be simultaneous or alternating.

Simultaneous insurance used on relatively simple, but potentially dangerous terrain. The most common example is traveling in a team on a glacier. Participants all move at the same time, while they are tied together with a rope and are at a safe distance from each other - on average, 15-18 m. If one of the bundle suddenly falls into a crack, he is delayed by the weight of the other people in the bundle and the resistance of the rope cutting into the edge of the crack. Also, simultaneous belaying is widely used on narrow dangerous ridges, where it is possible to lay a rope separating the participants behind the protrusions of the relief. Sometimes, for simultaneous belaying, artificial points for securing the rope are used, which requires more serious skills.

Variable insurance used where simultaneous movement of participants becomes dangerous. In this case, one of the participants moves along the terrain, if possible, threading the rope through the belay points (if any), and the other carefully belays him. Typically, a safety device is used. The belayer carefully watches the partner in the rope moving along the terrain, gives out the amount of rope necessary for free movement or chooses the slack.

The insurer must be ready at any time to take all measures to detain the failed first number.

This is the so-called " bottom belay", since all points of reliable fastening of the rope are below the climber. Moving with bottom belay the most risky and requires good preparation.

After the first number has advanced along the terrain for the entire length of the rope or to a convenient/arranged place, he stops and organizes a base station at reliable belay points (large stones, teeth, stationary hooks or staples, mobile belay points) and prepares to receive the second number to yourself, providing him top belay.

Top belay more reliable and less traumatic due to the fact that in the event of a breakdown (if the process is properly organized), there is no significant fall of the failed participant. In this case, the belayer can be relative to the climber both at the top (during ascents) and at the bottom (during training). In this case, the rope must pass through a special ring or carabiner at the top of the route.

Railing insurance. Railing.

It is necessary to mention this type of insurance, which is very popular on commercial and sports climbs, and is considered group insurance.

By railing, as a rule, we mean a rope fixed on both sides (top and bottom), which often also has additional fastening points along its length (this is especially true for horizontal or diagonal railings). Such points of additional rope fastening are required at the bends of the railing path.

People usually move along the railings by clipping a lanyard into them using a carabiner (link) if the terrain is simple. If the terrain is difficult for the climber, then special clamps are used to prevent slipping down. The simplest and most accessible clamp is Prusik knot(cm.

Belay devices

Reliable alternate belay requires the use of special devices. Currently, a great variety of them have been invented. The main types will be discussed here, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages.

You need to understand that only the most affordable and popular devices for use on hikes are described here.

Knot UIAA (UIAA). This abbreviation stands for “International Mountaineering Federation”. It is the standards of this organization that are taken as the basis for the certification of almost all devices for extreme activities. The UIAA knot is perhaps the simplest method of relatively safe insurance. It can also be used for rappelling. All you need for this is a reliable carabiner, preferably steel, with a round cross-section (a carabiner made of a light alloy will begin to wear out quite quickly). This knot works “in both directions”, has two positions, in one of which the rope easily extends through the carabiner, and in the other it offers great resistance to passing through it.

Basics advantage This method of insurance is simplicity.

Disadvantages more. The main one is that the knot twists the rope very tightly, which after just one passage through the carabiner with the knot becomes unsuitable for further use without alignment. That's why, this method you should know rather “just in case.”

« Eight" This type of descender is very simple and reliable to use. Still would! There is simply nothing to break here. In addition to the eight, you also need a carbine.

Basic dignity- lightness, simplicity, cheapness. The ability for most designs to work with double rope, with thick, stiff or very dirty rope that may "refuse to cooperate" with more delicate devices.

From shortcomings- “twists” the rope, although not as much as the UIA knot. Requires increased care in use, as it does not have a self-blocking effect. A certain paradox occurs - a device that requires precise skills and is potentially one of the most dangerous, most often ends up in the hands of beginners due to its low cost...

« Cup" A technically more advanced group of devices. Just as light and almost as simple in design as the eights, but with a partial self-locking effect. There are many designs for double rope. Ideal devices? If only... They do not work well with rigid ropes and ropes of increased diameter...

Many homemade or original devices small-scale manufacturers - all kinds of “bugs”, “fungi”, “swallows” and other works of unstoppable engineering.

The devices listed above are convenient in that they can be used with equal success both for belaying and for rappelling. At the same time, they are lightweight, compact, cheap and best suited for beginners. Still, it’s hard for me to recommend the figure eight as the first belay device for a beginner.

There are a number of more bulky and specialized devices, used mainly in industrial mountaineering and speleology. They are characterized by bulkiness, significant weight, and high cost. Therefore, they are more suitable for professional use and will not be discussed in this article.

I cannot ignore another iconic safety device, which, however, can be used to a limited extent for descent - gri-gri (GriGri) from the famous French equipment manufacturer Petzl. Over time, the principle of operation of the device was borrowed by other manufacturers with varying degrees of success.

First of all, the device is popular among rock climbers and mountaineers. Its feature is semi-automatic operation. The operation of the device is somewhat similar to the action of inertial seat belts in a car - if you pull smoothly, the rope (belt) extends freely, but if you pull sharply, the mechanism is blocked. True, there are some nuances in using the device. However, it significantly increases the security of insurance. Unfortunately, limited use, high price (about $90) and the need for certain skills do not make this device the best choice for a beginner.

Also worth mentioning separately Prusik knot . This ingenious invention is already more than eighty years old and, despite significant advances in technology during this time, it is still widely used in mountaineering, tourism and other types of extreme activities. This knot is a type of noose - a type of grasping knot that has a pronounced self-blocking effect (if used correctly). Allows the climber to linger in the event of an unexpected fall. At the same time, it is very simple, weighs almost nothing and takes up exactly the same amount of space as a two-meter cord, from which it is most often made.

I believe that the reader understands that any information in any of the most excellent articles is just food for thought. It cannot be the only reason for using special equipment in extreme travel or other circumstances. Highly recommend practical lessons in the types of extreme activities that interest you with a knowledgeable instructor. It also makes sense to conduct potentially dangerous hikes under the guidance of an experienced guide or people who have the necessary skills to perform more difficult activities than those required by the activity.

I wish you exciting, eventful, but safe adventures! The one who walks will master the road.

If you earn your living by performing high-altitude work using industrial mountaineering, then one of the most important issues for you is the issue of safety. If it is not important to you, then the effectiveness of this work will most likely not be obvious as a result, since you will need to spend quite a lot of money on treatment or funeral. In this article I will try to convey the main aspects of this philosophy in the simplest approximation for both basic and simple option, work in unsupported space.

Yesterday I once again talked with the boobies who have a wrong understanding of the issue of ensuring personal safety and this is not the problem, but the fact that the boobies consider themselves to be quite successful and accomplished professionals. In addition, yesterday, hurray, I received a sample of a new belay device from CAMP, called .

In this article, I immediately want to outline the framework, we are talking about working on a rope in an unsupported space, that is, a system when the descent and safety rope are fixed at the top and you use this rope (or ropes if horizontal movements are necessary) to descend or ascend, performing insurance for a separate rope (or ropes in case of significant separation of the descents). Providing insurance when working in a support space requires a different theory and description.

Obvious

To begin with, I will once again reveal obvious and already boring, of course, banal truths.

  • The safety rope should always be there, no matter 300 meters below you or 3
  • The panic reflex is a reality, not a made-up theory. The greatest danger in insurance methods is associated with this concept.
  • A safety rope should almost never be used for purposes other than belaying unless absolutely necessary. There are exceptions, but they are not discussed within the scope of this article. The safety rope must fulfill a strictly defined role assigned to it.
  • The safety rope should not be dynamic (with an elongation greater than 6 percent at a load of 80 kg), nor should it be superstatic with an elongation less than 3 percent.
  • If the main one breaks, the belay rope should not launch you into an exciting flight with an unknown pendulum ending, because it was secured to the side of the main one.
  • The promalp must clearly understand what happens and happens when the main rope breaks. Most often, accidents occur at low altitudes, when the depth of the fall is greater than the reaction depth of the belay device.

Reasonableness (I urge you to turn on your brain)

You can ensure safe work using almost any type of insurance. You can successfully belay yourself using a prusik made from an 8-mm cord, properly tied to a rope, a jumar, or numerous cheap drop-type clips, which, of course, I do not encourage you to do. This is acceptable in extreme cases, it seems to me, but if this is the norm and not the exception, this method is completely ineffective from the point of view of work productivity and is dangerous because of the constant temptation to break the rule. By understanding what happens when a dynamic load occurs on the safety rope and clamp, there is every chance of remaining on the list of alive and healthy people.

Understanding the dangers of such an effect as the panic reflex gives all the advantages in the game that we all play from birth to death. The illusion of reliability is very high. There is not a single chance that if the rope breaks, you will let go of the belay device, and this fact is no longer theoretical.

Using dynamics for insurance. You can just do the math. 100 meters above you. Below you is 10 to the ground. Your weight is 80 kg. You are using ASAP, which does not cause unnecessary slippage. A break in the main rope sends you falling. Dynamics is an elastic band, so by the time it begins to try to stop the fall, you will have accumulated enough kinetics. Dynamic elongation is usually 7-9 percent for a load of 80 kg. That is, even without taking into account the kinetics of the fall in a static state, you will hang 1-3 meters from the ground. But this will not happen, because you are not made of cotton wool, but of meat, and the meeting with the earth will be such that it will not leave you a chance to go home on your own two feet.

The use of superstatic materials made from the strongest aramid, Kevlar, Dyneema and other materials is also unacceptable. Insurance triggering is always a dynamic process. Therefore, the loads when triggered by superstatics will be prohibitive for the attachment point, the device and you. The result may not be very good.

Trump ASAP

Released by Petzl not long ago with the claim of being the ideal belay device. It is mandatory with a 20 or 40 cm shock absorber when used, contrary to the common belief that it is normal without a shock absorber. ASAP decides main problem in ensuring safety - eliminating the panic reflex. Fixation will happen in any case, whether you grab it or not. The operating depth, as far as I know, is about a meter in practice. That is, if the rope breaks, you will fly the distance allowed by the length of the shock absorber and the position of the device at the moment of the fall and the depth of slipping until it is completely fixed.

It is also necessary to mention the problem of blowing out the rope at a time when there is a lot of it above you, but not so much below you. The wind can pull the rope out of the device and the more it is pulled, the greater the depth of the fall if this situation occurs.

To summarize, I want to convince you that even such an ideal device as ASAP does not allow you to forget about the constant monitoring of this link.

Sliding devices, try to overtake

The principle of the devices is that they slide along the rope and do not require participation during descent or ascent. Therefore, they are always below the point where the lanyard is attached to the system, so when triggered, a fall to a certain depth will always be ensured. The device is triggered by a slight acceleration of the rope passing through it. All devices of this kind have the ability to manually lock free sliding, in which case it can be fixed above the point and ensure minimum depth falls. Moreover, they all have a slippage along the rope before fixing, some more, some less. Therefore, the shorter the length of the lanyard, the better. The recommended length is 40 cm. This is a quite comfortable length, which allows you to avoid the inconvenience of the clamp getting in the way during operation and at the same time providing a small fall depth. Blowing out of the rope in these devices does not occur due to sensitive operation, which does not allow the rope to slip up. The panic reflex, as a possibility of bad developments, is minimized, despite the fact that this risk still exists. You can accidentally grab the device if you fall.

Leader on this moment in terms of quality and reliability, it is clearly from CAMP. Providing a minimum sliding depth, it is also designed for use with a load of up to 200 kg. The most popular is Kong BackUp, which has gained popularity due to its adequate cost and good characteristics. It has saved the lives of more than one of my friends, and precisely due to the device’s quick response to a fall.

Clamps that require discipline, which generally cannot be used, and yet everyone uses them

For many riggers, the use of clamps that need to be moved along the rope by hand has cost them life and limb. There are two reasons, or rather dangers. The first and most important is the panic reflex. If the main rope breaks while the hand is holding the clamp, a normal and healthy person will not let go. The instinct of self-preservation is the strongest of instincts, and overcoming it with awareness of the situation requires time many times greater than the time allotted for reaction. In practice, a person cannot even remember what happened if he, of course, is still alive. The second reason is that often the clamp is too low because the climber simply did not move it when climbing the rope. There is a high degree of bad developments in this situation. A person can fly to the ground if the height is not high. The rope may be bitten, melted, or the shirt may be removed from it. There are also clamps that have become deformed and broken in practice. The most common type in this numerous type are devices called drop

Some clamps can be pulled up the rope without assistance, if the weight of the rope going down allows it. Our most common one is, and his younger brother. You can use these clips quite safely for belaying, because they have very good dynamic and ergonomic properties. The main thing is to remember the panic reflex and when descending, move the device not by taking it with your hand, but by pinching the very bottom with your thumb and forefinger. When moving upward, in order to reduce the depth of a possible fall, in practice, I place the lanyard over the crook of the arm pushing the jumar. In this case, the clamp is always as high as possible. But these clips are not safety clips; they are designed for other purposes. I am writing about them now only because they are in any case better from a security point of view than those described in the last paragraph and that is why I am writing about them.

IRATA allows

And now the main class of devices, which is acceptable for insurance, subject to discipline and excluding the main danger in the form of a panic reflex. This is the practice of IRATA, an association that has never had a fatality in its history to my knowledge, and their philosophy of using towable devices.

There are several belay devices that allow you to pull them along the rope without touching the clamp itself with your hands. This is in particular Pezl Shunt, DMM Catch, recently appeared S.Tec Duck R. Also, a good device that works on this principle was proposed by the guys from Krok, who tested it for failure with factors 1 and 2. All these devices are united by the way they are used for insurance. They are moved by additional laces, which, if triggered, cannot be held by hand or snap off when broken. Therefore, using the example Petzl Shunt, a short cord is tied into the places intended for it and, when working, is held between the main and index fingers (and only this way). At the moment, as far as I know, Petzl officially says that Shant is not applicable for insurance, but to be honest, I don’t know whether IRATA is currently using it for insurance. I don’t see any significant differences in terms of security between the Shant and other devices in this class.

All the rest

All other insurance options are outside of this article; it seems to me that they are used by very brave people who obviously consider industrial mountaineering an extreme sport. I am writing this paragraph primarily to those guys who yesterday convinced me that they are absolutely confident in themselves when they work on two separated ropes using two inherently sports Gri-gri.

So it goes.

Timur Akhmedkhanov, industrial climber