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Plywood cutting boards: drawings and manufacturing rules. Plywood cutting boards: classification of material, tools used, work progress Cutting board shape pattern

In the apartment of every reader of this report, in the kitchen there is a tool necessary for cutting various products - a cutting board. Initially it was stone, then iron, bronze, and only then became wooden). Although plastic analogues have recently appeared, wooden boards are still popular. I recently managed to get into a workshop where cutting boards are made, but what I saw did not go with my ideas about such a simple utilitarian kitchen item on which vegetables, meat and other food are cut.

Today, we will find out how the most expensive cutting boards are made in Russia.

Just as a theater begins with a hanger, so a workshop where wooden products are made begins with a warehouse where the wood is stored. It arrives to our master, whose work will be discussed today, in finished form, dried at a certain temperature for several years. Fresh wood cannot be used to produce boards, as the finished product will deform over time due to shrinkage.

Here, the warehouse maintains a certain temperature and air humidity, which prevent the wood from drying out too much and becoming too wet. This table, which hangs on the wall of the workshop, shows the optimal percentage of humidity at different temperatures.

There is also a hygrometer hanging here showing the degree of humidity in the room. True, the master said that his readings were incorrect).

To produce some boards with particularly complex patterns, a CNC (computer numerical control) machine is used. The machine is small, just connect a laptop with a preset program to it.
The drawing of the board that the mill is currently working on is inspired by the famous work of Maurits Escher “Reptiles”.

If desired, the cutter will work wonders).

This is what the board looks like after the machine is running. If you look closely, you will see that this future board is glued together from pieces. We will find out why this was done later.

If the base of the board is made of walnut, then the inserts are cut from other types of wood that differ in texture and color - oak and rosewood.

As the master told me, the machine cut out the figures on the board in such a way that when inserting other reptile figures, no gaps were found. The figures turn out to be fitted to each other very tightly.

In this photo you can see examples of gluing. A multi-colored piece is glued together from different types of wood. This material will be used to glue one of the most difficult boards to make. You can see it at the end of the post.

The master takes a simple board, processes it, aligns the edges. Then the board is cut into pieces, which are turned with the end part and glued together. Moreover, gluing is not done in any random order, but in a special way so that the growth rings are directed in opposite directions, this will prevent the boards from deforming when humidity changes.

Why is this being done? Due to the vertical arrangement of wood fibers, knives do not become dull longer, since the knife blade does not cut the fibers, as in ordinary boards, but penetrates between them - slides. The fibers return to their original state after culinary efforts on it. Accordingly, the board does not deteriorate, and cooks do not have to sharpen knives several times per shift, as is the case with conventional boards.

In addition to walnut, hornbeam, ash, maple, oak and beech, valuable wood species such as American cherry, movingwood, and mahogany are also used as materials. As you can see from the markings on the wood, it is from the USA, some are from South America and Africa.

Other types of wood.

After the wood is cut into pieces and turned upside down, it is glued and clamped in clamps - a special press. As you can see, here the shields are of different thicknesses. The thicker one will become a board, and the thinner shields will be used to cut patterns and figures on the surface of future boards, like the figures from “Reptile”. After gluing, the shield will be ready in an hour, but it is recommended to subject it to load after 24 hours.

For gluing, a special glue is used that does not contain formaldehyde, is approved for contact with food and has great water resistance.

This is what the room looks like where all the tools needed for carpentry are located.

Perfect cleanliness and order! As you may have noticed, the workshop has all the machines and tools for making any wooden product. A real carpenter's paradise).

Special clamps for large boards.

We won’t touch that board with the reptiles for now; we’ll be working on it for more than one hour, so we’ll work on another one. After it is glued, it is run through this grinding machine - a thicknesser. Essentially this is a modern planer.

Then the sides of the board are cut with a circular saw.

The sides are sanded on another machine with a vertical movement of the belt. The corners are rounded right away.

The board is then run through the drum sander again.

This time the surfaces are sanded more delicately. However, that's not all.

Pumps are attached to each machine, collecting sawdust from wood processing. After processing by machines, the product is polished with a manual grinding machine. First, a coarser sandpaper of 120 grit is used, then 240 grit to finally polish the board.

Finishing touches to round the edges and the carpentry work on the board is complete.

After all the above operations, the board takes a bath of mineral oil, which has no taste, color, or smell. The oil is made from petroleum, but it is completely safe and is even used in cosmetics.

The same board with reptiles that is shown at the beginning of the post will turn into the same one. After some time, when the board is saturated with oil, it will be allowed to dry, then treated again with a hot mixture of mineral oil and wax in a 4/1 ratio.

Other boards are also sent to the same oil bath.

Now let’s go to the “Show Room” of elite cutting boards). In this room, the boards are packed and awaiting a meeting with their future owner.

Hygrometers monitor humidity levels.

This board just broke my mold of simple, utilitarian kitchen utensils! I can’t even imagine how you can dare to cut food on a work of art).

Many hours were spent to produce a board with a 3D effect. By the way, these boards are the most expensive, and it’s understandable why.

And this board can be safely hung instead of a picture!

The master also makes special boards for beating meat. There are even grooves for blood flow.

I’ll also add that the end boards, due to the material and manufacturing features, turn out to be thick and heavy, but they don’t roll around on the cook’s table/work surface. There is no need to place a rag or wet napkin/towel, hold it at risk. The boards are additionally equipped with rubber (sometimes silicone or plastic) legs, which are insurance against the absorption of water that accidentally gets under the board.

After the board has gone through all stages of the production process, it is packaged in film.

A little hot air and you're done.

This map shows where the ordered boards went - mainly Russia, Europe, the USA, there are even Japan and Australia.

Well, for those who want to make an end cutting board with their own hands - a master class. If you have all the tools and machines shown above, then go for it!

And as a bonus, watch the video of how boards with drawings are made, just cool!

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A cutting board is a necessary attribute of a modern kitchen, without which it is difficult to imagine the process of cooking. Usually there are minimum requirements for a cutting board; it must, first of all, be clean and durable. But there are many very original and non-standard models of boards that are designed to make kitchen work simpler and more convenient, and also serve as a striking accessory among traditional kitchen utensils.

Number of cutting boards in the kitchen

According to hygiene standards and standards, one board for all products is not enough. Ideally, each type of product should have its own kitchen board. In catering establishments and professionally equipped kitchens, the number of boards reaches 10-12, or even more. In ordinary apartments there should be at least two cutting boards, but the acceptable and safe number of boards in the kitchen is four.

The basic concept of separation is this: foods that we eat raw (vegetables, fruits, bread products) cannot be cut on the same board on which we cut meat and fish. The reason is that meat may contain pathogenic bacteria. When cooking meat, they die and the prepared dish is harmless to humans. But bacteria can live on a board for quite a long time, even if you wash it well. Accordingly, by cutting bread on such a board, you can become infected with a dangerous infection. It is also advisable to separate the board for meat and fish, because a strong fishy smell is not so easy to remove.

In total, it is advisable that in your kitchen arsenal there are separate boards for raw meat, fish, bread and everything else (vegetables, cheese, herbs). At home, it is convenient to use boards of different colors and shapes or carefully label them so as not to confuse the purpose.

Types of cutting boards

Cutting boards are usually divided according to the material they are made of.

The traditional material for kitchen boards is tree. Wood has a rough texture, food on a wooden surface does not slip, and knives do not become dull so quickly. The quality of wooden boards depends on the type of wood. The cheapest and shortest-lived softwood boards are pine and birch. Boards made of oak, beech, and acacia will last longer. They are more expensive, but practically do not absorb moisture and odors. It is also worth paying attention to whether the board is glued together from fragments or cut from a solid piece of wood. Oddly enough, choose the first option, as it is less susceptible to deformation.

The main disadvantage of wooden cutting boards is considered to be their unhygienic nature and high absorption of odors and moisture, but as mentioned above, it all depends on the type of wood and the quality of workmanship.

After each use, the wooden board should be washed under hot water with a small amount of detergent and left to hang to dry. It is not recommended to wash the board in the dishwasher, as this will quickly deteriorate it.

Unlike a tree, glass It is considered the most hygienic material; it is easy to clean, including in the dishwasher. Special glass is resistant to abrasion, deformation, and is difficult to break. You can even easily pound meat on a glass board. Neither odor nor moisture are naturally absorbed. It is glass models that most often abound in decorative design; various patterns and designs, bright colors make such boards a real decoration of the kitchen space. When choosing a glass cutting board, pay attention to the rubberized legs, which will ensure a tight grip on the table surface. It is desirable that the glass be heat-resistant, then the kitchen board can also be used as a stand for hot frying pans or pots.

Among the disadvantages of glass cutting boards, one can note the unpleasant sound from the contact of a metal knife with glass, as well as the need to catch escaping products from the perfectly smooth surface of the board. When working on such a board, the knives quickly become dull.

Plastic boards have become increasingly popular lately. They have all the advantages of a glass board, that is, they are durable, resistant to abrasion, do not absorb odors and moisture, are easy to clean, but at the same time, products do not slip on a plastic, slightly rough surface, knives do not fail so quickly and there is no unpleasant sound. In addition, plastic is lighter than wood and glass. But all this applies only to high-quality certified models, the cost of which is sometimes comparable to expensive wooden or designer glass boards. Typically, polyethylene or polypropylene is used for production.

The disadvantage of even expensive and high-quality plastic boards is that they cannot withstand high temperatures, so they should not be used as a hot stand for a long time. We do not recommend buying a cheap board, the chemical composition of which is unknown and there is no information about certification. Such a cutting board quickly becomes covered with cuts, and harmful toxic substances can penetrate into food products.

Original cutting boards

The cutting board can be of any shape, but rectangular ones are traditionally used as the most convenient. The standard thickness of the board is from 0.5 to 1 cm, although for cutting meat it is better to take a thicker one 1.5-2 cm, in case you need to chop the meat. It is also better to select the sizes of cutting boards for the products, for example, for bread - a little larger than a standard loaf, and for rolling out the dough you will need a long and wide board.

And now - the fun part!

Modern cutting boards can be very different from generally accepted standards. Despite the apparent simplicity of the board, manufacturers and even famous designers continue to work wonders and modify this kitchen accessory in every possible way, adding new functions and experimenting with shape, color and design. Basically, the most original cutting boards are made of wood, although there are also unusual plastic models. Glass boards are practically not modified in any way, since even without modifications there are a huge variety of decorative design options - from photo printing to stained glass.

Cutting boards for sinks are usually made of plastic. The board has a built-in colander for washing fruits and vegetables. You can also put chopped food there. In most models, the colander is removable, so the cutting board can also be used on the table surface.
Many housewives dream of a special hole in the working surface of the table, where they can immediately dump cleaning and waste. This function is fully realized in cutting boards, where there is a hole for cleaning, and containers for chopped products, and the ability to conveniently place a plate where you can throw salad ingredients with a slight movement of the knife. This is perhaps the most useful improvement to a regular cutting board.








The opportunity to use the cutting board as a place to store knives was also not ignored. The kitchen board turns into a drawer, where tools for peeling vegetables or cutting cheese are stored in the corresponding slots.





You already know that the kitchen should have at least two, and preferably four, cutting boards. Obviously, different original models may be present in a single copy, but there are also convenient sets of boards just for different products. They are usually made of plastic, labeled and do not take up much space.


Many manufacturers are moving away from the standard rectangular shape and carving unusual boards from wood in the form of different shapes, animals, and even the outlines of countries and continents!



Other designers are experimenting with patterns on the surface of the board. On plastic ones the image is applied with paint, on wooden ones the burning or carving technique is used. The drawing can be either purely decorative or have very practical purposes, for example, a table of weights or a ruler.





The jigsaw puzzle is also reflected in cutting boards. Indeed, different board sizes are needed for different purposes. For a French baguette, you can assemble a long board from separate parts, and for dough, a wide rectangular one. Plus, the notches in the puzzle boards double as a glass holder!


For slicing baguettes, the French came up with a special board with slots.

Cutting boards can serve as trays during buffets and banquets.


A board with built-in scales is a very useful and convenient invention not only for professional chefs, but also for those who like to cook exactly according to recipes. With such a cutting board, cutting 35 grams of pepper and 216 grams of meat will be very easy.

Glass kitchen cutting boards can also surprise. Imagine the horror of your guests when you cut cheese on a brand new iPad. The built-in LED lighting will only enhance this similarity.

Glass cutting boards can cover the cooking surface. This is very important in case of limited space in the kitchen.

A transformable plastic cutting board will greatly simplify the life of a housewife in the kitchen. The board has the ability to fold along the folds, which is very convenient for pouring chopped products into a plate. You can also wash vegetables, herbs and fruits in it.

The edge of the table can also be used.


This cutting board is an excellent option that takes advantage of that awkward corner corner of your countertop. A round board eliminates the right angle and adds some work space.

Lately, end cutting boards have become extremely popular. What are they and how do they differ from ordinary cutting boards found in every kitchen? Everything is simple here: on the standard cutting boards we are used to the wood fibers are parallel to the surface of the board, and at the end they are perpendicular. This key difference gives end boards a number of advantages over their regular counterparts. The main one is that the end board wears out less and also dulls less the knife you use to cut food on this board. And all thanks to the movement of the knife “along the fibers”. When using an end board, the knife seems to “spread the fibers apart,” and subsequently they return to their original position. At the same time, both the sharpness of the knife and the board itself suffer less. In the case of a regular board, the knife simply cuts the wood fibers crosswise, which quickly destroys the board and dulls the knife. With intensive use, pieces of wood may even separate from the board. For clarity, I drew schematic pictures:

Regular cutting board - the knife cuts through the fibers

end cutting board - the fibers move apart and then return to place

End cutting boards are usually made from hardwood: oak, ash, walnut, cherry, maple. Exotic breeds are also used, but in small quantities due to their high cost. The simplest end boards are simply rectangular pieces of one type of wood glued together, but there are more complex options that combine bars of different shapes and different species, usually of different colors and textures, to create an interesting pattern on the surface of the board. There are also truly unique products with a so-called 3D pattern.

example of a 3D board from MTM wood (https://mtmwood.com)

To make my first end cutting board, I decided to choose not the simplest option, but decided to use wood from at least two different species to obtain at least the simplest pattern - “checkered”. When combining several species in one board, the density of the wood should be taken into account - it should not vary greatly between the species being combined, otherwise there is a risk of cracks and other defects. After a little analysis, I chose beech and ash: these species are similar in density, but have a fairly pronounced difference in color cuts. I purchased small bars, approximately 500x150x50 in size, which, according to my calculations, was enough to make even two medium-sized boards 250x350x40. Looking ahead, I will say that I incorrectly took into account the consumption of material at some stages of production, and only one board came out. These bars cost me about 900 rubles each. For the first time, it would probably be more logical to take something cheaper, for example, oak. From the tools we need, we will need a full set of carpentry machines: a jointer, a planer, a circular table and maybe even a miter saw.

Manufacturing begins with leveling the face of each of the boards on a jointer and calibrating them on a surface planer. In my case, they turned out to be quite smooth, so I didn’t have to process them much.

jointer

thickness planer

Next, we make longitudinal cuts of the bars into rectangular slats 20x30 on a circular table. It is worth considering that with each cut the saw will “eat up” several millimeters of the workpiece, so do not expect, for example, to get 5 30mm bars from a 150mm board; at best there will be 4 of them. It is also worth cutting with a reserve, since the saw leaves behind The cut is not very clean and will require grinding or thicknessing. In general, wood is much denser than pine and is harder to cut. Plus, the saw blade did not seem to be in the best shape and slightly “burned” the workpieces while sawing.

Ash and beech bars

Dark marks are visible on the saw cuts - marks from a circular saw. It is noticeable that the breeds differ in color

After this stage, it is recommended to calibrate each strip on a surface planer, which will simultaneously give them the same size and eliminate sawing defects. Then we glue them into a shield, laying out bars of different types to get the desired pattern. My idea was simple, and I simply alternated the bars - one beech and one ash. For gluing boards specifically for the end cutting board, the American TitebondIII is considered the best glue for its strength characteristics and environmental friendliness. But in fact, any ordinary PVA wood glue can provide sufficient strength; the main thing is to tighten the clamps correctly and align the edges of the bars before gluing.


When the glue has finally set (preferably the next day), you can proceed to the next stage - thicknessing of our shield. Here another disappointment awaited me: when gluing the shield, I did not take into account that the thickness planer is capable of processing a workpiece only 300 mm wide. Therefore, I had to cut off my shield by a couple of centimeters at the edges and waste expensive slats made of beech and ash. After this, we need to dissolve our shield onto the slats, but this time across it. You can also use a circular saw, but I had a miter saw with enough broach to take 300mm so I used it. I cut the slats to 40mm, since the thickness of the future board is planned to be 40mm.


After trimming, all that remains is to glue the almost finished board one last time. And here again I was unable to avoid loss of material. In order to get the “checkered” surface texture of the board, it was necessary to glue the slats with an offset, so the protruding “squares” would go to waste. To avoid this, when gluing the shield for the first time, it is worth using an odd number of slats, so that now you can simply turn over half of them and get the desired “checkers”. But, due to an incident with the dimensions of the planer, I had to saw off just one strip and I had an even number of them left. In general, it turned out like this.


After gluing (again, better the next day), all planes of the board should be sanded with final sanding with fine grain on an eccentric sander. Then you can make grooves on the sides with a router to make the board easier to pick up, and attach small rubber or plastic feet to protect the board from prolonged contact with water.

Separate topic - how to treat an end board after it is made to increase its service life and add beauty to its appearance? Most craftsmen apply edible mineral oil (or its medical equivalent - petroleum jelly). Anyone who believes that mineral oil is not environmentally friendly enough uses unrefined linseed oil. Often, for additional protection, the board is treated with beeswax or carnauba wax or a mixture of wax and oil.

In conclusion, I note that the process of making an end cutting board is quite labor-intensive and time-consuming (due to gluing operations). The material consumption is simply enormous, as a result of which any errors or inaccuracies in manufacturing are costly. Be careful! If you want to try making an end cap yourself, I would recommend starting with the cheapest hardwood in your area and using a simple pattern on the board to hone the skill. And only then take expensive wood and a complex pattern.

In this video you can see how professionals work. Notice how beautiful the board looks after oiling:

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What boy didn’t cut something out of wood as a child?! This skill can come in handy if you decide to make your own cutting board. Of course, in the store you can buy a ready-made factory board for your mother, wife or friend. But for the most part, they are devoid of soul, that unique aura that a thing made with one’s own hands brings into the house. And if it is also decorated with personalized laser engraving - yes, the same one that is made in the famous workshop store Drevoshop - then there is no doubt: any woman will appreciate such a souvenir!


Technology for making a cutting board at home

In every home you can probably find a piece of some kind of board; plywood is suitable, but it is better to use solid wood to make a cutting board. In order for the board to withstand suspended mechanical loads and not crack under the influence of a knife, hard wood species should be used: oak, larch, ash, maple, walnut, cherry. But beech and birch are not very good for these purposes - they very actively absorb moisture even through several layers of varnish.


To make a cutting board, you will need a few materials that can easily be found in the pantry of any apartment: a pencil with a ruler, a jigsaw, sandpaper. A sanding machine will be a great help. The stages of work on making a cutting board are clear and logical.


  • Draw the desired outline on a piece of wood. It is best to limit yourself to a classic rectangular shape with rounded edges at home. If you decide to make a handle, then you need to make it strictly along the central axis of the board.
  • Using a saw with fine teeth, we cut out the shape along the contour or a couple of millimeters larger - they can be useful for finishing the finished product.
  • We round the corners using a curved jigsaw along previously outlined semicircles.
  • Now comes the most critical stage of work - careful processing of all surfaces of the board with sandpaper or, if available, with a grinding machine. It is necessary to achieve perfect smoothness on all sides, special attention should be paid to the end faces. The remaining tiny particles of wood can enter the human body, which is not only harmful, but also dangerous.
  • We drill a hole in the handle and think about how to decorate the resulting masterpiece!

How to decorate a cutting board

Before decorating and using the board, it is necessary to clean it from dust, dry it and treat it with hot vegetable oil, which has a bactericidal effect. Oil will not only allow you to painlessly use the board for cutting any food products, but will also strengthen the wood, increasing the service life of the product.


You can decorate the board in various ways. One of the most fashionable trends recently is the decorative technique of decoupage. Its essence is that cut and painted pieces of paper or napkins are pasted onto the surface of the board, previously coated with a primer, and varnished on top. A board made in compliance with all the rules of decoupage will delight any housewife with its bright appearance and unusual three-dimensional texture.

It is very appropriate to give a cutting board with laser engraving to a loved one. This method of decorating various wooden objects, unique in its range of possibilities, is offered by the Drevoshop store. With the help of engraving, you can not only emboss a name or words of congratulations to the hero of the day, but also apply a complex pattern of various shades. Laser engraving is absolutely harmless to health and is practically not subject to wear. A handmade cutting board decorated with engraving will delight any woman!

Using things made with your own hands is always doubly pleasant. Especially if this thing is made taking into account individual requirements for it. And even if we are talking about such a simple item as a DIY wooden kitchen cutting board. It would seem that take any sanded board or piece of plywood and use it - what difference does it make what you use to cut bread or meat? But the daily routine of cooking becomes less burdensome when you do it using beautiful and convenient tools.

And the cutting board is not as simple as it seems. And one is usually not enough; you need at least three for different products. Therefore, many will be interested in learning about the features of choosing and making it yourself.



We sweep away plastic, ceramics and glass immediately. And not only because these materials are difficult to process manually. But also because of their high hardness and negative impact on the knife blade, which quickly becomes dull when in contact with such surfaces.


Let's focus on wood, as a natural, beautiful and pliable material, most suitable for our purpose.

Wood species

First of all, you need to decide on this issue, based on requirements such as the wear resistance and durability of the board, its purpose and the final cost of the craft.

  1. The most budget option - pine. Its disadvantages include the softness and friability of the wood, on which, with active use, marks from the knife remain, and from frequent washing the board can swell. But it is quite suitable for slicing bread and making sandwiches. The main thing is that the tree is dry and not resinous.

  2. Birch– a little more expensive, but has good hardness. However, it warps from moisture and does not have a pronounced pattern.

  3. Beech, cherry, oak, acacia– the most suitable wood species for making cutting boards for any purpose. Dense, hard, beautiful and not very expensive.

You can also consider exotic breeds, but it is better to practice on something more accessible and easy to process.



Dimensions and shape

The dimensions of the wooden block are also of great importance. They are determined based on the required dimensions of the finished product, taking into account the method of its manufacture and waste from trimming.

The dimensions of the board, in turn, depend on its purpose. If a small board is enough for cutting cheese or fruit, then for cutting meat it should not only be large, but also thick enough to withstand the blows of a kitchen hatchet.



However, you should also take into account the dimensions of the kitchen workplace. A large board will be of little use if it simply does not fit on the countertop between the stove and the sink, for example.


This applies not only to products for working purposes, but also for decorative purposes. After all, quite often they are made exclusively as decoration for the kitchen interior, and not for their intended purpose. Decorated with carvings, paintings or appliques, such accessories are an integral part of kitchens in a rustic or Provencal style.



The dimensions and shape of the board should be such that it is convenient not only to use, but also to store. For example, when storing in a hanging position, a hole must be provided. It can be located in the middle or in the corner of a rectangular product or in the center of a long handle.




If the product will be used not only for cutting and cutting food, but also for serving, it is worth giving it a non-standard shape.


Material quality

Standard wood requirements for cutting boards:

  • it must be dry so that during use the board does not warp due to uneven shrinkage. In this case, it will be impossible to use it even as a hot stand;
  • there should be no through knots or cracks on the piece selected for processing;
  • Also on the surface there should be no traces of blue, mold or synthetic substances (gasoline, oil, etc.).

Note! As a material for a cutting board, you can also use thick multilayer plywood, but only FK grade, glued with urea glue. Other brands are not suitable, as their production uses a toxic adhesive. It must also be free from defects and preferably first class.



Types of wooden boards by manufacturing method

Based on manufacturing technology, these kitchen accessories are divided into solid and glued. The first ones are cut according to a template from a single piece of wood (a wide board or a cross-section of wood) and processed.



Glued boards can be assembled from longitudinal bars, end cuts or various shapes like puzzles or mosaics. They are more durable and practical, as they are less susceptible to internal stress and deformation.


For reference! Particularly valued are the so-called end boards, in which the wood fibers are located not along the working surface, but perpendicular to it. When cutting, the knife blade does not bump into hard fibers, but seems to fall between them, so it remains sharp longer and requires sharpening less often.

DIY making

Below are examples of how to make wooden cutting boards yourself.

Solid boards

First you need to choose the size and shape of the board. If it has a complex configuration, you will need a paper template, drawn to a real scale by hand or in a computer program, and then printed on a printer. It’s easy to transfer it to the board by cutting it out and tracing the outline with a pencil.


Advice! If the product has a symmetrical shape relative to the axis, it is enough to draw half of the figure on a sheet folded in half, and then cut it out, using scissors to grab both layers of paper.

In addition to the wooden blank itself, you need to buy beeswax and oil to impregnate the board. It will give the wood a more pronounced texture and rich color and will protect it from moisture. You can use special mineral oil to impregnate countertops. But flaxseed or Vaseline bought at the pharmacy will do.


As for tools, you don’t need anything special to make a solid wood board. Of course, if you have a planer, sander and jointer, circular saw, router and jigsaw, the job will be done quickly and effortlessly. But it is quite possible to get by with a hand jigsaw and sandpaper, especially if the shape of the product is simple, without small radius elements.

If all this is available, you can get started.

Step 1. We transfer the outline of the future product onto a wooden blank and cut it out with a jigsaw or a hacksaw for metal with a fine tooth - it does not make large chips.


Using sandpaper, a file or a grinding machine, we process the planes and ends of the board, eliminating broken chips and wood fibers and giving the product smoothness.


If you have a router, you can use it to round the edges or cut a hollow around the perimeter.


Step 4. We drill a hole and process its edges.


Step 5. If this is provided for by the project, we decorate the board with carvings, paintings or other methods, keeping in mind the purpose of the product. If this is an applied accessory, it is better to decorate only one side. A drawing or carved ornament is allowed on the working surface only around the perimeter or in a small area at the edge.


Step 6. Treatment with a protective compound. Since food comes into contact with the cutting board, it cannot be coated with varnish or other synthetic compounds. It is better to use the oils listed above to impregnate wood, applying them with a brush, sponge or piece of lint-free cloth. The number of layers depends on the absorbency of the wood. Each layer should be given time to dry and absorb, after which you should walk over the surface with the softest sandpaper. The last layer is applied with a mixture of oil and melted beeswax in a ratio of 3:1. If it is not completely absorbed, it is heated with a hairdryer and the excess is wiped off with a paper napkin.


Video - Wooden cutting boards

As a starting material, you can use not only boards, but also plywood, furniture panels, and transverse cuts of wood.

Even from old hemp you can make an excellent massive board for chopping and cutting meat. But you will have to spend more time and effort marking and sawing the log, freeing it from the bark.






And you can add functionality to a large board by screwing comfortable handles on the edges and turning it into a tray.



Wood absorbs food odors well, and it is not advisable to wash it frequently using special products. Therefore, in the kitchen you need to have several cutting boards for different products. Products of the same shape and size can be given individuality by painting their ends in different colors or making inscriptions with a burning device.




Typesetting boards

Laminated boards are glued boards and are assembled from several wooden blocks adjusted in thickness. To get beautiful contrasting stripes, take wood of different types and alternate it in the intended order.

But even from one wide board you can get a unique product if you cut it into bars, and then lay them out not in the same order, but alternating a darker core and light sapwood.

To create such products you will need a more serious tool:

  • thicknesser or planer for perfect alignment and fit of glued edges;
  • clamps or carpentry clamps for tightening and fixing the workpieces to be glued;
  • circular saw for trimming workpieces.

You can assemble the canvas not only from straight parts, but also from other shapes tightly fitted to each other.

One of the most accessible and inexpensive options is PVA glue D3.

Note! To make the board more durable and not warp, when laying out the bars, place them so that the annual rings at the ends of adjacent elements are directed in different directions.

End boards

Such boards are made in a similar way, and the basis for them is an already glued inlaid board, the manufacture of which is described above.


To get the “chess”, first complete these steps, excluding the last two points. Then:

  • cut the shield across the strips into slats of equal width;
  • shuffle them to get a contrasting pattern;
  • glue with the side edges and continue processing according to the already worked out scheme.



Video – DIY budget cutting board

Depending on the design, manufacturing technology and availability of tools, one cutting board can take from several hours to several days. The cost can also vary significantly depending on the materials used. And if you don’t mind replacing a cheap solid pine board with a new one after a few months, then glued products made from valuable types of wood need to be properly cared for in order to extend their service life.

In particular, they need to be sanded every three to four months to remove ingrained stains and cut marks where bacteria can grow. And then soak it in oil again.

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