How to sharpen a chainsaw chain with your own hands: basic operating rules and necessary equipment. How to sharpen a chainsaw chain: instructions for working with sharpening accessories Do-it-yourself device for sharpening chainsaws

Using a chainsaw to work on a summer cottage in our time is not a whim or whim of the owner, but a vital necessity. Various works on building a bathhouse or garage, creative ideas for improving garden design, renovating a house, and even more prosaic preparation of firewood require the intervention of a chainsaw, and without one they often turn into an almost insoluble problem.

But, like any tool, it needs maintenance, one of the components of which is sharpening the chain. To ensure that the saw never fails its owner, he should literally “listen” to its work and learn to determine the moment when the chain needs to be sharpened.

You can notice quite a lot of signs that directly indicate the need to sharpen the saw chain. This is both a decrease in performance and an increase in fuel consumption. Another important distinguishing feature is the reduction in the thickness of the chips flying out of the cut. Don't wait until it looks like dust.

The intensity of saw chain grinding is directly proportional to the frequency of use of the chainsaw. The hardness of the material with which you have to work, the presence of knots, the danger of the chain contacting the ground, iron, stone, etc. also matter.

The longer the cutting process lasts, the more the chain grinds down, and accordingly, the load on the body increases, which leads to wear on the drive and bar. From here it is not far to serious breakdowns that will require significant investments in repairs and replacement of spare parts.

The best solution in this case would be to resort to the services of a specialist who will do this professionally, using special equipment. But a situation may arise when it is not possible to use the help of specialists. Well, this is a good reason to learn how to sharpen a chain yourself.

Tools for work

To sharpen chains at home, various sets are often used, consisting of files of different sections in combination with various devices - holders, gauges, templates, hooks.

- round file - a tool necessary for processing the surface of a cutting tooth;
- flat file – used for grinding down the limiting tooth;
- holder - a device that allows you to fix the file in the correct position in relation to the chain, setting a certain angle of inclination and height of the protrusion above the edge of the tooth;

gauge - a tool by which the ratio of the height of the depth stop to the height of the upper edge of the tooth is adjusted;
template – a universal device that combines the functions of both holders and gauge;
hook - a device for cleaning teeth from sawdust.

Sequencing

To develop the correct skill in using tools, sharpening of chain teeth is carried out following the sequence of steps:

1. The saw bar is fixed in a stationary position using a vice attached to a table or workbench.

2. A file of the required size is selected for the chain. Typically its diameter ranges from 4 to 5.5 mm.

3. The start of work is determined by the small tooth. All other chain teeth are adjusted to its size. It is recommended to mark the first tooth with a marker so as not to go through the second circle.

4. A template is applied to the device so that the arrow coincides with the direction of movement of the chain.

5. Using a round file, movements are made along the cutting teeth strictly in one direction. The angle of inclination of the file is determined by the factory notches on the teeth.

6. Having sharpened the first tooth, move on to the second. The operation is repeated for each subsequent tooth. For uniform sharpening, use the same pressure on the tool and the same number of movements.

7. The chain is then rotated 180 degrees and the process is repeated for the second half.

8. At the final stage, the restrictive teeth are ground down to the required height. This is done using a flat file. The difference in the height of the cutting tooth and the limiting tooth determines the depth of wood cutting. Its optimal value is from 0.5 to 0.8 mm.

The result of the work can be assessed positively if all the teeth of the chain are sharp enough and, most importantly, are the same in height.

Sharpening on a machine

Sharpening a chain with a file is painstaking work, sometimes not effective enough if an inexperienced person undertakes such work. The result in this case is not worth the effort.

It is much easier to change the file to a wheel, manual labor to automatic. Using the machine you can quickly and efficiently sharpen a chain. Specialized machines can also help in cases where a large amount of work with a chainsaw is expected, and the time for sharpening the chain is limited.

Sharpening machines are divided into two types: manual and automatic.

Automatic machines - pros and cons

Pros:

adjustment of circuits can be done without much effort and in a short time;
automatic machines are safer and more efficient than manual devices;
power plants have a number of additional functions.

Minuses:

relatively high cost;
The power tool cannot be used in places where there is no power source.

Do-it-yourself chainsaw repair at home:

Manual machines

Such machines are divided into mobile and stationary. The principle of their operation is similar to automatic machines.

Pros:

indispensable for working in places where there is no power source;
relatively low cost.

Minuses:

all sharpening operations require manual effort;
Sharpening and debugging a chain takes a lot of time.

When choosing a machine, you should pay attention to the following points:

device power. Selected according to the frequency of use of the chainsaw;
equipped with a rotating head. Its presence simplifies the sharpening process.

Note: The main advantage of using machines is the ability to adjust according to the smallest tooth, thanks to which all the teeth of the chain will be adjusted and sharpened to the same size.

Stages of working with the machine

The main thing when working with a sharpening machine is to strictly follow the instructions and observe safety precautions. If we talk about the sequence of actions in brief, we can highlight several main points:

1. We install the saw into the machine. The teeth should face the sharpening disc.

2. Set the sharpening angle (usually 30°).

3. Select a control tooth (the shortest one).

4. We sharpen it by setting the parameters.

5. Without changing the settings, we sharpen the remaining teeth.

6. After sharpening all the teeth, we blow it and treat it with oil.

To go longer without sharpening, you need to learn a few simple rules:

The new chain needs to be broken in. This is done by turning the chain at low speeds for a minute. In this case, the lubricant is evenly distributed over the parts, and the sprocket and chain heat up and rub against each other;
the new chain is incompatible with the old drive sprocket, and the old one, on the contrary, is incompatible with the new one. After replacing 2 chains, the sprocket must be replaced;
The cutting depth limiter must be correctly adjusted;
The chain must be well lubricated. In addition, without sufficient lubrication, the service life of the chainsaw is significantly reduced.

Below, we invite you to watch a video about sharpening a chainsaw chain with your own hands:

Absolutely all chainsaw owners sooner or later face the need to sharpen their chain. This problem can be solved in two ways - take the chain to a workshop, or sharpen the chainsaw chain yourself. Everything is clear with the first solution, but sometimes contacting a service center is impossible - for example, the chain became dull while working at the dacha, from which the nearest workshop is hundreds of kilometers away. In this case, you will have to deal with it yourself. Let's talk about how to properly sharpen a chain saw.

The need to sharpen the saw

The procedure for sharpening a chainsaw chain is no more complicated than the process of sharpening any cutting tool if you have special tools. The chainsaw tooth has a complex geometry. The side and top cutting edges, the second of which is beveled towards the line of movement of the chain at a certain angle, make this operation difficult.

To a large extent, the high performance of a chainsaw is influenced by the correct use of its chain, which must be sharp and pre-sharpened. This is the only way to ensure efficient and safe operation when using it. After all, a properly sharpened chainsaw chain is more important than a powerful engine. Sharpening the saw must be done after it has become dull, which involves working slowly, and the machine also moves to the sides.

Intense operation of the chainsaw provokes rapid dulling of the chain. Sometimes several sharpenings may be required throughout the day. The problem is aggravated by the fact that the teeth quickly become dull when they meet the ground. Even if you hit the soil with the tire once or twice, you can stop working - the chips will become small and the saw will stop going deeper into the wood. The sooner dull teeth are sharpened, the less material needs to be removed when sharpening, and as a result, the useful service life of the saw chain becomes longer.

When do you need to sharpen your saw?

Unfortunately, sharpening a chainsaw chain in many cases is not done in a timely manner - users simply do not notice the signs that indicate that the chain has become dull. Do not cut with a defective saw chain or a dull chain, which will result in poor cutting results, high cyclic load, high fuel consumption, and destruction of the drive sprocket and tire. This in turn leads to a decrease in productivity, increased wear of all chainsaw components and a decrease in the useful life of the chainsaw.

To avoid such problems, pay attention to the type of chips while working. Based on the condition of the chips, you can determine when the chain needs to be sharpened. If it becomes darker than before, this is a clear sign that the chain needs sharpening. You can recognize a dull chain if only small chips fly out of the cut instead of large thick ones. In this case, a lot of dust appears in the shavings, and it looks like needles.

It is enough to simply determine the moment when sharpening is necessary. An important feature is the feed force. A target, sharpened correctly, is drawn into the cut even with small pressures. If, on the contrary, the chainsaw is forced to cut by increasing the feed force, then the teeth become dull.
Take a close look at the teeth of the chain - in many cases, dullness can be seen with the naked eye. You can determine the need to sharpen the chain of a Stihl chainsaw by the reduced level of productivity - it is more difficult to saw, and the work takes the user more time.

Teeth parameters

The cutting link of a chain saw consists of: a tooth blade, a base of the link and a depth stop. The clove blade has an end blade, which is located vertically, and a falling upper blade, located horizontally.

To achieve optimal cutting properties, it is necessary to give the tooth blades certain angles. The back of the tooth, which slopes back at an angle, forms the angle of the upper blade that is required for the upper blade to cut into the wood. The blade of the tooth, which tapers back, forms the angle of the end blade necessary for side cutting of chips flying from under the chainsaw.

The edge of the end blade with the sliding surface of the link forms a rake angle, which varies for different chains from 60 to 85 degrees. The backward tilt of the upper blade is measured in accordance with the sliding plane of the link and depending on the type of saw chain, and reaches 50 - 60 degrees. The top blade is the main blade, and the angle of the top blade is the most important angle. The angle of the upper blade is difficult to measure; its correct value is possible if all the values indicated above are observed.

You can change the sharpening angle of the chainsaw chain depending on the application. The main rule: the greater the sharpening angle, the higher the cutting performance when cutting soft, unfrozen wood. When cutting hard and frozen wood, reducing the sharpening angle helps reduce vibration and smooth operation of the saw. But remember that the sharpening angle should not be more than 35 and less than 25 degrees. The exception is chains intended for longitudinal cutting; their angle is 10°.

The top blade angle, sharpening angle and rake angle change when sharpening. Such criteria have a decisive influence on the cutting ability of the chain. There is a depth limiter on each link in front of the tooth blade. The difference in height between the edge of the back of the tooth and the edge of the depth stop is defined as the depth stop distance.

The level of penetration of the upper blade into the wood (chip thickness) and therefore the productivity depends on this indicator. Set the distance of the depth limiter depending on the type of design and chain pitch. It should be within the normal range of 0.5-0.8 millimeters, most often 0.6 millimeters.

Higher values cause the chainsaw to be more prone to kickback, chain vibration, and too much grip. Low values cause a drop in performance. Since with each sharpening of the chainsaw the distance of the depth limiter decreases due to the reduction of the upper edge of the tooth, the depth limiter also requires periodic filing - after ten sharpenings.

General sharpening rules

Proper sharpening of a chainsaw chain requires following several recommendations. It is strongly recommended that you pay attention to them before sharpening your chain. The sharpness of the cutting link angle and the height of the cut stop must meet the criteria established by the manufacturers. In addition, it is important that the dimensions of all links of one chain are identical. Otherwise, performance may decrease and vibration levels and engine load may increase. Due to uneven loads, the likelihood of chain breakage increases.

Since the internal contour of the tooth is close in shape to a circle, and the material of the chain is quite soft, it is customary to sharpen the chain with a round file, which has a small diameter. Sharpening a chainsaw requires precise positioning of the file relative to the tooth being sharpened.

The top edge of the file should extend above the top edge of the tooth by approximately 1/5 of the file diameter. Immediately before sharpening the chain of a gas-powered saw, it is recommended to find out its parameters; it is recommended to choose the diameter of the file depending on the pitch of the chain. It usually fluctuates in the range of 4-5.5 millimeters.

The video of sharpening a chainsaw chain shows that the file must be placed at a right angle in the vertical plane to the chain and 10 or 30 degrees in the horizontal plane. It is quite difficult to fulfill all these conditions using only one file, so you can use different devices for sharpening a chainsaw to ensure the required sharpening parameters. They are kits that come with gas-powered saws, or can be purchased independently at any hardware store.

Sharpening accessories

A common set designed for sharpening the chain of a chainsaw consists of a round file, which is installed in a special holder, a flat file, which is necessary for grinding off the depth limiter, which provides the last operation of the template for sharpening the chainsaw chain, and a special hook for cleaning the chainsaw from sawdust.

There are lines on the holder with a round file that allow it to be positioned correctly relative to the chain. The holder is installed on the tooth to be sharpened according to the orientation lines. In this case, the plate rests on the depth stop and the upper edge of the tooth, and the file is placed under the cutting edge.

The use of a holder ensures that the file adheres to the tooth at the correct height. There are different holders for different chain pitches. Proper selection of a holder according to the correct file diameter ensures that the file will protrude 1/5 of its diameter above the back of the tooth. Only special files should be used.

Before manually sharpening a chainsaw chain, you must secure the bar. Select files in accordance with the type of chain; the main selection criterion in this case is its pitch. Round files have a diameter of 3 - 6 millimeters and are intended for sharpening cutting teeth. Flat files have a width ranging from 4 to 12 millimeters; they are used to remove a control tooth.

sharpening should be done in such a way that 1/5 of the file for sharpening the chainsaw chain protrudes above the cutting edge;
the tool must be moved not back and forth, but in one direction;
Every 2-3 sharpening of the tooth, it is worth sharpening the cut stop.

Sharpening is carried out in this way:

pre-install the chain brake by holding the chainsaw tightly between your knees;
after that, place the template in such a way that the “arrows” point to the “nose” of the tire. Don’t forget to mark the tooth where you started sharpening with chalk;
move the file in the direction indicated by the arrows, moving away from you, and sharpen;
Using a flat file and an onlay, it is necessary to remove the control tooth. In this case, the direction of movement can be any.

It should be noted that working with a chainsaw chain sharpening kit requires certain skills, which is why it is not advisable to sharpen an expensive chain without experience.

There is no need to try to press the file too hard, make measured and smooth movements. Rotate the file regularly to avoid one-sided wear. Sharpen all other teeth in the same way. It is more convenient to sharpen the teeth of one direction first, and then do the same with the teeth of the other direction, changing the position.

When sharpening, make the same number of strokes with the file on each tooth using the same pressure. This gives the teeth the same length. The length of all cutting teeth must be the same. Different lengths of teeth cause uneven movement of the chain and the formation of cracks in it. In the case of unequal tooth lengths, you need to file all the cutting teeth to the length of the shortest tooth.

Sharpening machines

Not every chain can be sharpened with a file. If during operation the saw has thoroughly plowed gravel or sandy soil or has not been sharpened for too long that the cutting edge has completely lost its shape, sharpening with a file will require too much time and effort. In such cases, it is reasonable to use a chainsaw chain sharpening machine. Such machines are divided into electric ones, which are equipped with sharpening wheels, and manual devices.

The working part of such devices for sharpening a chainsaw chain is structurally reminiscent of a bow saw, in which a long round file is inserted instead of a saw blade. The machines sharpen and straighten the chains, adjusting the length of the upper edge of all teeth to the same size according to the smallest tooth, which is taken as the control one. A complex configuration mechanism will help you set all the necessary parameters.

Sharpening must be done in 2-3 movements, then moving on to the next tooth and leaving all the settings made for the control tooth. This can ensure the same sharpening procedure parameters for absolutely all teeth. When you grind down the stopper, change the round file to a flat one.

An electric tool for sharpening a chainsaw chain is simple and convenient to use. It is equipped with an adjustment system that helps set the chain at the required angle and accurately guide the disc to the edge to be sharpened. There are machines that automatically clamp the vise when the disk is lowered onto the chain.

The machine, in fact, performs a similar role as chainsaw chain sharpening wheels and gauges, but with higher accuracy. Sharpening is done as follows:

First, loosen the screw that adjusts the chain clamp slightly.
Install the chain in the guide groove so that the links point towards the sharpening stone.
Then set the desired sharpening angle. The standard value is an acute angle of 300, but other options are possible depending on the use of the chain. Choose polarity depending on the sharpening of the cutter - left-handed or right-handed.
Sharpen. There are two options. The first of them is sequential sharpening, processing the cutters one after another, but each time in this case you will have to change the polarity. Another is to sharpen every second cutter: first the left-handed and then the right-handed cutters, or whichever is more convenient for you. By reducing the number of operations, since there is no need to change the polarity each time, the speed of work increases.

During the work process, it is important to follow some rules. Firstly, the optimal level of sharpening is determined based on the length of the most blunt tooth, which serves as a guide. Secondly, it is not advisable to sharpen too deeply, because this leads to a decrease in the strength of the link. After completing the work, it is recommended to blow out the chain with compressed air and leave it in clean oil for a certain time.

Now you know what such a procedure as sharpening a chainsaw chain with your own hands is, and what the cost of sharpening a chainsaw chain is. The work is not easy, it has its own characteristics and nuances, it requires minimal basic skills, but it can be done at home. All that remains is to choose one of the options for the development of events - using a file or a manual machine.

How to sharpen a chainsaw chain with your own hands? This question is often asked by numerous owners of this necessary household tool. In general, this process is quite lengthy and requires certain labor costs, accuracy and skills. However, it is quite within the capabilities of any person, but it is necessary to take into account the recommendations of specialists. Improper sharpening of the cutting device will only make the problem worse.

Why is there a problem?

A chainsaw is a hand-held tool used for cutting wood, and its cutting element is a chain with an edge of teeth sharpened in a special order. Despite the relative softness of the wood, during active use the cutting area is subject to natural wear with dulling of the edge and the appearance of small defects in the form of chips and deformations. As a result, the device ceases to effectively perform its functions, which is reflected in a significant increase in weight and lengthening of the sawing process. Sharpening a chainsaw chain with your own hands allows you to return the tool to its previous performance. This is a standard operation that can be performed using various devices.

How can you tell when it's time to sharpen your chain? The following manifestations are considered to be pronounced signs of significant wear of a cutting tool: “walking” of the tool from side to side when sawing wood; a significant reduction in the speed of cutting wood even at the maximum speed of the electric motor; the appearance of obvious sawing defects in the form of excessive width and unevenness of the cut; the appearance of excessively small chips of a changed configuration.

A dull chain dramatically reduces work productivity. When sawing, additional effort has to be applied, which, in addition to worker fatigue, increases the likelihood of tool failure, chain breakage and damage to its individual links. These circumstances indicate the need to resolve the issue of how to sharpen a chainsaw chain. In the instructions for the tool there are no deadlines for the operation of sharpening the chain; it is set in each specific case individually according to the actual condition of the cutting edge.

Structural elements

In order to solve the problem of how to properly sharpen a chainsaw chain, you need to clearly understand its design features. The sawing process is ensured by the specific shape of the cutting teeth in the chain link. Each such tooth has a side (end) and upper cutting edge with a characteristic sharpening angle of their blade. Wood cutting is carried out according to the principle of planing, and the depth of tooth penetration into it is changed using a limiter.

The most important characteristics of the process are determined by the values of the edge sharpening angles. The back of the tooth forms the rear angle of the upper edge, which is responsible for penetration into the tree. This angle provides the necessary tilt of the upper blade back and is about 49-58º. The back angle of the side edge is created by the blade and ensures that the wood is cut from the side. The side blade, together with the sliding surface of the link, forms the rake angle. It should be in the range of 59-84º (different for different types of chainsaws). In general, we can say that the upper blade is the main cutting element, and its rear angle is recognized as the most important characteristic.

How to correctly determine the sharpening angle. It is measured from the top cutting blade at right angles to the guide bar. Changing its value leads to the following features: an increase leads to faster sawing of soft-structured materials, and a decrease leads to uniform and high-quality sawing of hard wood. The optimal size of this angle lies in the range of 26-36º. In general, the main parameters are: sharpening angle, rake angle and top edge angle. They are carefully controlled during chain sharpening.

Another controlled parameter is the distance of the depth stop. It represents the difference in height between the top blade and the leading edge of the back. This characteristic is responsible for the thickness of the wood chips removed when cutting. Normally, this distance should be in the range of 0.44-0.76 mm, and most often it is set at 0.60-0.65 mm. It should be taken into account that when sharpening the height of the backrest decreases, which requires reducing the height of the limiter, i.e. grind it down. In addition, it is taken into account that an excessive gap reduces the quality of sawing and increases the kickback of the saw when cutting.

Sharpening with a file

The simplest and most affordable way to solve the problem in question: sharpen the chainsaw chain with a file. This manual technique requires precision and careful control of the tooth parameters. To check the correctness of actions, special devices are used.

To implement this technique with your own hands, you will need the following tools: flat and round files of different sizes and grain sizes; holder in which the file is attached; special template; a hook-shaped device for removing remnants of metal shavings and stuck sawdust; vice. The main tool is a round file with a diameter of 4-6 mm, with which the main actions are performed. During operation, precise angles must be ensured, and therefore the file is installed in a holder that ensures its desired position relative to the teeth. Using a holder, the tool is fixed with an overhang above the back of the tooth by 20% of its diameter.

The operation to reduce the height of the limiter is carried out with a flat file. In order not to remove excess metal, a special template is used. During sharpening, it is mounted on the saw chain, and it is passed through the hole located in the center of the template. During processing, the file is supported by rollers and moves strictly parallel to the side edges of the template.

In order to accurately sharpen a chainsaw chain manually, you must consider the following sharpening rules:

The parameters of the teeth and limiter are interrelated, and their values may differ for different types of tools and must comply with the instructions for the chainsaw.
It is important to ensure that all chain links are sharpened identically, which makes it necessary to align all the teeth along the element that has the smallest height.
Correct sharpening is ensured when the file is positioned parallel to the floor and rotated at an angle of 26-31º in the horizontal plane.
Metal removal is ensured only by moving the file away from you; this must be done smoothly and prudently.
At the first stage, all the teeth of one direction are sharpened, and then, after turning the chain over, elements of a different direction are processed.

The manual sharpening procedure is carried out in the following order:

ensuring reliable fixation of the chainsaw and installing a chain motion stopper, while it is possible to hold the tool between the knees, but for more reliable fixation it is recommended to clamp it in a vice;
marking the initial tooth to eliminate the risk of reprocessing;
carrying out alternate sharpening of all teeth in the same direction along the entire length of the chain;
turning the saw over and repeating the sharpening, but with teeth in the second direction;
limiter processing with installation of a special template.

Possibility of using an angle grinder

The manual method using a file is considered the most suitable option for inexperienced tool owners. Its disadvantage is the increased complexity and duration of the procedure. The processing of the sharpened tool can be ensured by a grinder. In its principle, this technology differs little from the previous method, but allows mechanizing the process. Another thing is that using an angle grinder requires certain skills to work with it, and the slightest wrong movement will remove an excessive amount of metal.

That is why processing with an angle grinder requires special care and precision.

When implementing this mechanized method, the following nuances should be taken into account:

The chain is not removed from the chainsaw, and all work is carried out on the assembled tool.
A disc for processing metal with a diameter of at least 3 cm is installed on the grinder; however, you should not try to use a new disc, because... a previously used disk has more rounded edges.
A block in the form of a wooden wedge is installed between the chain and the bottom of the chainsaw bar.
It is important to correctly determine the angle at which sharpening is ensured, and it is set individually for each tool.

Use of machines

The highest quality sharpened chainsaw chain comes from using hand-held machines specially designed for this purpose. The main advantage is that they provide the necessary processing even when the cutting elements are severely damaged. Currently, the choice of such equipment is quite extensive. The machines are produced in small-sized, portable versions and as a stationary device.

An example is the rather popular Stihl sharpening machine. It can be supplied in 2 versions: a portable device brand FG1 and a stationary device brand FG2. An important feature of such machines is the ability to fine-tune all the main parameters of the sharpening process. They are based on manual technology using a file. A special tool, similar to a file, is clearly fixed in the machine, and the performer ensures sharpening of the tooth with 3-4 movements of this tool.

More advanced machines make it possible to completely mechanize manipulations. In addition, a number of types of machines carry out sharpening according to the grinder principle. In this case, not a tool with translational motion is used, but a rotating emery disk (circle).

Any tool undergoes wear and tear during use, and a chainsaw is no exception. A dull chain sharply reduces the quality of sawing and cutting speed, and the use of such a cutting element can lead to failure of the entire tool. At the right time, it is necessary to ensure that the chain is sharpened. You can carry out this operation yourself, but you must strictly follow all the parameters specified in the instructions for the chainsaw.

CrazyStroitel.ru will tell you how to properly sharpen a chainsaw chain yourself, what tools and devices to use.

If you want your chainsaw to serve for a long time and reliably, you need to constantly ensure that the chain is sharp.

You can sharpen the chains yourself. There are no standards for the timing of sharpening a chainsaw chain. This is affected by how often and for how long you use the device.

How can you tell if your chainsaw chain is dull?

And how to sharpen a chainsaw chain correctly?

If during the work process there are uneven chips, a large amount of dust and sawdust have a needle-like shape - this is a sure sign that the chain needs to be sharpened. Do you need to sharpen your chainsaw chain yourself?

The cutting link is a rather complex part of the saw chain in its structure.

The saw chain consists of two parts:

cutting depth limiter
cutting element with an L-shaped cutting angle.

The following factors influence the characteristics of the cutting link:

top edge sharpening angle
cutting angle
side angle
depth limiter height.

When sharpening a chain, you need to take into account all of the above factors. A slight deviation can cause unnecessary hassle.

*What tools are needed to assemble a tool for sharpening chainsaw chains with your own hands?

Everything is very simple:

round file
flat file
a combined template or device for sharpening a chainsaw chain (available in construction hypermarkets)
vice (optional)

Voila. We have an almost ready device for sharpening chainsaw chains.

Sharpening process.

How to sharpen a chainsaw chain? Very simple. First, clamp the saw in a vice. We start sharpening with the cutting teeth. Next, you should apply a sharpening template to the chain. There are arrows on the template, they should point in the direction of rotation of the chain. Perform sharpening with smooth movements; forward movement should be carried out at an angle to the chainsaw awl. The tilt angle is selected depending on the chain pitch. Each tooth must be sharpened equally. That is, the number of movements should be approximately comparable. You need to sharpen one by one, one tooth on the right and one on the left.

Important: after you clamp the tire in a vice, it is easier to first sharpen every second tooth on one side and then every second tooth on the reverse side.

Apply a template for the stopper tooth and use a file (flat) to sharpen the stopper tooth to the level of the template. The template has several provisions, namely two:

— H-“hard” – for hard wood (such as oak)

— S – “soft” – for softer breeds.

Important: the stop tooth cannot be sharpened without a template, this will lead to you cutting too deep, in which case the chain will begin to cut too thick a layer of wood. In turn, this will increase recoil and reduce the accuracy and precision of cutting.

The teeth of the chain must be sharpened equally (in length). The guideline for this is the length of the tooth itself that has become dull. You need to measure the length of the visor of the blunt tooth. The angle between the blade and the side should not be changed. By all standards, the angle should be 90 degrees.

Sharpening a chainsaw chain is, perhaps, no more difficult than sharpening other cutting tools, but provided that you have special tools for sharpening it. Her tooth has a complex geometry. Two cutting edges - side and top - of which the second is beveled at a certain angle to the line of movement of the chain, make this operation difficult.

The chain tooth planes the wood like a plane, and the thickness of the chips is adjusted by the height of the stop.

Intensive use of the saw leads to rapid dulling of the chain. Several sharpenings may be required within one day. The problem is aggravated by the fact that the tooth quickly becomes dull when it encounters the ground. It is enough to hit the soil with the tire once or twice, and you can stop working - the chips become small and the saw stops going deeper into the tree.

The sooner dull teeth are sharpened, the less material needs to be removed when sharpening, and as a result, the service life of the saw chain is longer. Determining the moment when sharpening is required is quite simple. An important feature is the feed force. A correctly sharpened chain is pulled into the cut with just a little pressure. If, on the contrary, the chainsaw is forced to cut by increased feed force, then the teeth have become dull. A dull chain can also be recognized if, instead of large, thick chips, only small chips fly out of the cut.

In this situation, the chainsaw must be sharpened urgently. Do not saw with a dull or defective saw chain - the result is high stress on the body, high cyclic load, and poor cutting results. In addition, this means reduced productivity, high fuel consumption and increased wear of all chainsaw components.

Chain teeth parameters

The cutting link consists of: the base of the link (1), the tooth blade (2), the depth stop (3). The tooth blade has a vertically located end blade (4) and an upper blade (5) falling at an angle back, located horizontally.

To achieve optimal cutting properties, the tooth blades are given certain angles. The angled back of the tooth forms the rear angle of the upper blade. This angle is needed to cut the upper blade into the wood.

The back-tapering blade of the tooth forms the rear angle of the end blade. This angle is needed for side cutting of chips.

The edge of the end blade forms a rake angle with the sliding surface of the cutting link. Rake angles for different types of chains vary from 60 to 85°.

The rear angle of the upper blade describes the backward tilt of the upper blade.

This angle is measured relative to the sliding plane of the cutting link and, depending on the type of saw chain, ranges from 50° to 60°. The top blade is the main blade, and the back angle of the top blade is the most important angle. The back angle of the upper blade is difficult to measure; its correct value is formed by observing other prescribed values.

The sharpening angle or leading angle is obtained by measuring from the top cutting edge at right angles to the guide bar.

The sharpening angle can be changed depending on the application. The basic rule: the larger the sharpening angle, the higher the cutting performance when cutting unfrozen soft wood. Reducing the sharpening angle when cutting frozen and/or hard wood makes the saw run smoother and reduces vibration. However, sharpening angles of more than 35° and less than 25° should be avoided (the exception is rip saw chains, in which this angle is 10°).

The rake angle, sharpening angle and top blade angle change during sharpening. These angles have a decisive influence on the cutting ability of the chain. Be sure to observe the prescribed values.

A depth limiter is located on each cutting link in front of the tooth blade. The difference in height between the top edge of the depth stop and the leading edge of the back of the tooth is defined as the depth stop distance.

The depth of cut of the upper blade into the wood (chip thickness) and thus the productivity depends on the distance of the depth stop. The depth stop distance is set depending on the chain pitch and type of design. Normally it should be 0.5-0.8 mm, more often 0.6 mm. Higher values will make the chainsaw more prone to kickback, excessive grip and chain vibration. Low values lead to poor performance. Since the distance of the depth stop decreases with each sharpening of the saw due to the reduction in the upper edge of the tooth, the depth stop also needs periodic filing - after 5-10 sharpenings of the chain.

General rules for sharpening a chainsaw chain

Since the internal contour of the tooth surface is close in shape to a circle, and the metal of the chain is quite soft, the chain is sharpened with a round file of small diameter. Sharpening a chainsaw requires precise positioning of the file relative to the tooth being sharpened. Its position should be such that the upper edge of the file protrudes relative to the upper edge of the tooth by approximately 1/5 (20%) of the file diameter. Before sharpening a chainsaw chain, it is advisable to know its parameters, since the file diameter should be selected depending on the chain pitch. Usually it fluctuates in the range of 4-5.5 mm. In addition, it is necessary that the file is located at an angle of 90° to the chain in the vertical plane and 30° or 10° (see Parameters of chain teeth) in the horizontal plane. It is quite difficult to fulfill all these conditions using only a file, so when sharpening a saw, various devices are used to ensure the necessary sharpening parameters. Usually they are kits that come with chainsaws, or can be purchased independently at any normal store that sells chainsaws.

Chain sharpeners

One of the common chain sharpening kits consists of a round file mounted in a special holder, a flat file for grinding down the depth stop, a template for the final operation, and a hook for cleaning sawdust from the saw.

The round file holder has lines that allow it to be positioned correctly relative to the chain. The holder is installed on the tooth being sharpened in accordance with the orientation lines. In this case, the plate itself rests on the upper edge of the tooth and the depth stop, and the file is located under the cutting edge.

Using a holder ensures that the file rests on the tooth at the correct height. There are different holders available for different saw chain pitches. The correct choice of holder in combination with the correct file diameter ensures that the file extends 1/5 of its diameter above the back of the tooth. Use only special files for sharpening saw chains.

Before sharpening the chainsaw chain, it is advisable to secure the bar. When sharpening, it is necessary, while maintaining the position of the holder and pressing the file against the edge being sharpened, to make several (2-3) turning movements away from you. There is no need to try to press the file too hard; movements should be smooth and measured. Turn the file regularly to avoid one-sided wear. All other teeth are sharpened in the same way. It is more convenient to first sharpen the teeth of one direction, then change the position and do the same with the teeth of the other direction.

When sharpening all teeth, make the same number of file strokes using the same pressure. This will ensure that the teeth have the same length. All cutting teeth must be the same length. Different tooth lengths cause uneven movement of the chain and the formation of cracks in it. If the tooth lengths are not the same, all cutting teeth should be filed to the length of the shortest tooth.

After several sharpenings of the cutting teeth, the depth stop is ground off. To do this, a template is placed on it so that the stop fits into the slot, and the tip protruding from the slot is ground off with a flat file.

Such sets, with different configurations, are sold in many stores that sell tools, for example, various sets and individual files are sold (it’s better to buy through an online store, because in a regular store of this network the price may be higher).

The principle of using another kit for sharpening chainsaw chains is no different from the first, although its design is different.

A round file is also used to sharpen the cutting tooth, and a flat file is used to sharpen the depth stop. A special template provides sharpening parameters for both cutting teeth and stops. In the first case, it is placed on the chain so that it fits into its slots. The file, placed on the template and brought under the cutting edge, rests on the guide rollers. The direction of movement of the file should be parallel to the side edges of the template.

When grinding the stopper, the template is applied so that the stopper fits into the slot, next to which it says SOFT (for soft wood) or HARD (for hard wood). As in the case of the first device, grinding is done with smooth, even movements of the flat file away from you.

Chainsaw chain sharpening machines

Not every chain can be sharpened with a file. If it has thoroughly plowed sandy or gravel soil during use, or it has not been sharpened for so long that the cutting edge has completely lost its shape, sharpening with a file will require too much effort and time. But then how to sharpen a chainsaw? In such cases, it is reasonable to use a machine for sharpening chainsaw chains. Machines are divided into manual (which, perhaps, it would be more accurate to call devices) and electric, equipped with sharpening wheels.

Stihl produces two modifications of hand-held machines - stationary FG 2 and mobile FG 1, installed directly on the tire. There are analogues from lesser-known companies, comparable in price to the simpler devices described above, for example this one.

The working part of these devices is structurally reminiscent of a bow saw, into which a long round file is inserted instead of a saw blade. FG 1 and FG 2 not only sharpen chains, but also straighten them, adjusting the length of the upper edge of all teeth to the same size - according to the smallest tooth, which is taken as the control one. A rather complex configuration mechanism allows you to set all the necessary parameters. Sharpening is done in 2-3 movements, after which they proceed to the next tooth, maintaining for it all the settings that were made for the control tooth. This ensures the same sharpening parameters for all teeth. When grinding the stopper, the round file changes to a flat one.

An electric sharpening machine for chainsaw chains is simple and easy to use. It has an adjustment system that allows you to set the chain at the desired angle and bring the disc exactly to the edge to be sharpened. There are machines that automatically clamp the vice when lowering the disk onto the chain.