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Indoor balsam has wilted and darkened at the base. How to deal with Balsam pests and revive a sick plant. Prevention - what to do

First, let's tell you what this plant is. Impatiens is a member of the annual or perennial family herbaceous plants of the Balsam family, although some species of this plant may belong to subshrubs. Balsam comes from the subtropics and tropics of Africa and Asia, also certain species can be found in Central Asia.

Since its introduction to Europe in 1596, it has been the most popular indoor plant. The plant itself has long, erect stems reaching a length of up to 50 cm and is a long-flowering plant. The stems are smooth and branched.

The leaves can be lanceolate or oval in shape, and also reach a length of 8-12 centimeters. The color of the petals in nature is red and pink, while hybrids have all colors except yellow and blue.

On a note. Popularly nicknamed “Touchy” because of the sensitive seed pods, which at the slightest touch shoot seeds up to 2 meters away.

Balsam leaves can be lanceolate or oval in shape. They are also quite fleshy and jagged on the edges. The color of the leaves is either green or purple-bronze. They are large in size and can reach a length of up to 12 centimeters.

Almost everything can be determined by the leaves, which is explained by their high sensitivity.

Also The leaves are quite fleshy, this is due to the supply of nutrients in them. But what to do if they wither and the plant discards them?

What causes this disease?

Causes

There are many reasons associated with yellowing of balsam leaves. Below they will be listed in descending order, that is, from the most common to the least common.

  1. Pests. The most common pest that can cause leaves to turn yellow is spider mites (read about how to deal with spider mites on balsam). The main problem is its “corrosiveness,” that is, it is very difficult to remove. This is due to the rapid spread of its larvae, which in the state of the larvae themselves are very resistant to all kinds of means.

    When trying to destroy this pest, it is necessary to treat the plant at least 3-4 times a week.

  2. Air humidity. The problem is due to the fact that most gardeners place balsam on the windowsill, and under it there may be radiators, heaters, and so on. All these heating devices dry the air, which is very critical for a moisture-loving plant.
  3. Incorrect watering. Here it’s worth starting with the fact that drying of the leaves can be associated with both insufficient watering and its excess. Therefore, the correct amount of water for irrigation for each flower is supported by experience.
  4. Old soil. When left in the same soil for a long time, balsam absorbs all the minerals from the soil. This begins to lead to soil depletion and an increase in acid levels.

    Important! Impatiens need to be replanted at least 2 times a year.

    Transplantation should be carried out in mid-spring and late summer.

    Also, drying of the leaves can be associated with poor quality of the soil, so the gardener should mix the soil himself.

  5. Excessive lighting. Impatiens prefer to be in partial shade, but direct sunlight on the plant should be avoided altogether. With too much light, the balsam leaves will begin to dry out.
  6. Pot too big. The pot should not be more than 1.2 times larger than the root system. Immediately there is an interweaving with watering; when watering from the edge of the pot, such watering leads to the accumulation of water and, as a result, rotting of the root system.

Prevention - what to do?

Actions to save the plant follow from reasons. Consequently, treatment will be based on correcting problems. It is enough to poison the pests, as described above, and the agent must be strong.

A good option against ticks would be a product that comes in powder form in ampoules.

As practice has shown, this remedy is the most effective. Diseases such as “Grey rot” or “Powdery mildew” are treated by changing external conditions. Eg To combat dew, the grower needs to “dry” the air.

Air humidity can be changed by moving the balsam away from heating devices, or you can use an air dehumidifier, since they work in both directions, that is, they both dry and humidify the air.

How to correct watering was described above; the correct amount of watering is determined experimentally. The problem with lighting as well as with air humidity can be corrected by moving the plant to the northern or western part of the windows.

Reference. Things are more complicated when the roots rot and the soil is depleted. In these situations, you will have to replant the balsam.

Experienced flower growers advise cutting off all the inflorescences before transplanting an already diseased plant. There is no need to be afraid, after transplantation the balsam will begin to bloom on its own, and the healing process will go much faster, because all the substances will be used to restore the leaves.

Prevention includes early improvement of the living conditions of balsam.

  1. The florist must maintain optimal air humidity, and the temperature in the summer should not exceed 25 degrees Celsius, in winter time the temperature should be around 10 degrees Celsius.
  2. In this case, it is necessary to feed the plant in spring and summer, and due to the fact that balsam has a poorly defined period of calm in winter, that is, it can bloom in winter, it is worthwhile to carry out weak feeding.
  3. Transplantation should be carried out in spring and summer, preferably in soil mixed by the grower himself.
  4. Watering should not be excessive, but you should not forget about it altogether.
  5. Lighting should be low.

If these conditions are correctly observed, the leaves of the balsam will stop falling., and the plant itself will be very bright and delight the owner’s eye.

If all else fails

Unfortunately, if the grower has neglected his plant too much, then all of the above tips may not work. The last resort would be to remove damaged foliage, and also remove rotten parts of the root when replanting. Then we can only hope for a miracle. In any case, it is very difficult to bring a plant to such a state, so you should never forget about the plant.

In conclusion, I would like to say that balsam is quite finicky, so we don’t recommend leaving all problems until the last minute, because in this way a gardener can easily kill his plant, and this obviously will not amuse him.

Although balsam has a very pleasant bonus for those who will watch it with special sensitivity, namely, the flower will bestow wonderful beauty on a caring owner, it is not for nothing that balsam has had the status of the most common house plant since the 16th century.

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Why did the leaves start to change color and become unhealthy and yellow? - It is very hot for balsam, it needs to be watered more often. In the summer, in the heat, the foliage of balsams noticeably turns yellow; you need to water it almost every day, spray it, and try to avoid direct sunlight. Perhaps he needs to be fed.

Is it possible to cut off the tops of balsam to make the bush fuller?- Many balsams “don’t like pruning.” After it they will grow clumsily. There are dwarf varieties of balsams that grow only 5-8 cm in height, and more go to the sides. It turns out to be a very thick and wide bush, covered in flowers.

Why does impatience bloom rarely and produce very few flowers?- Flowering may be weak when the dishes are large or there is excess nutrition.

Why don't the buds bloom?- If the buds do not bloom, there may be several reasons: lack of light, lack of nutrition, excess nutrition, too low a temperature, drying out of the soil, dry air or replanting. Changes in leaf shape are observed with prolonged cooling, irregular watering and pest damage. Check what your plant is missing. More about the plant:

How to get rid of spider mites on impatiens?- If the balsam is affected by spider mites, then spray the leaves on both sides 1-2 times a week with Agravertin (Akarin, Avertin), Actellik, Neoron, Fitoverm. You can wash the leaves on both sides several times a month under a cold shower (water temperature +15-17°C). The soil is like this cold water Do not water, otherwise the plant will die!! It is necessary to spray all existing indoor plants, even cacti.

Some droplets periodically appear and disappear on the balsam, what is it?- Balsam (or Impatiens, Vanka-wet) is distinguished by this feature - in cloudy weather and before rain, it releases a sugary substance on the stems, twigs and leaves, which quickly crystallizes in the air. Thus, this plant, to some extent, can be considered a home weather forecaster.

How to save balsam if the roots have rotted?- If there are signs of rotting, you must immediately carefully remove the plant from the pot, very carefully remove the sour soil from the roots or rinse it with water and replant it in fresh, light, water- and breath-permeable soil with plenty of drainage. If mold appears on the surface of the soil, you can remove the top layer of soil and add a fresh one with a large amount of sand. If, as a result of rotting, the leaves have lost turgor and become lethargic, then it is better to cut the plant, since rot can quickly destroy the plant.

Balsam buds and leaves fall off, balsam leaves turn yellow, other plant diseases - how to treat and prevent. Why do balsam leaves fall off?

The balsam leaves are falling, the balsam has dropped its buds. There can be several causes of balsam disease:

  • if the plant was purchased recently, then it goes through an adaptation period. It will last up to 1 month. It is very important to provide normal care during this period. This is normal watering, fertilizing, spraying. A sign that the plant has not died and has adapted to new conditions is evidenced by new leaves and the tone of the stems;
  • overdrying of the soil. Over-dried soil may crack and pull away from the edges of the pot. Due to lack of moisture, balsam sheds its leaves. In some cases, balsam leaves turn yellow, in others they dry out without losing the intensity of their color. In some cases, balsam leaves curl. Proper watering of balsam is once a week; before the next watering, the soil in the pot should dry out, but not dry out, which will negatively affect the health of the flower;
  • waterlogging of the soil is the most possible reason along which the leaves of the balsam fall, it sheds its buds. The soil is considered waterlogged when it does not dry out on top on the second day after watering. The ideal option is when the soil in a pot, the diameter of which is more than 17 cm, dries to the bottom within 1-1.5 weeks before the next watering. If the diameter of the pot where the balsam grows is less than 17 cm, then the soil in it should dry out in 1 week. If the leaves of the balsam fall off due to waterlogging of the soil, then the plant needs to be transplanted into a pot of smaller diameter. Before planting in the ground, balsam roots are examined for rot. Rotten roots are removed, the cut areas are treated with crushed activated carbon. The soil for planting balsam, which has dropped its leaves, is taken universal, for flowering, indoor plants. Experts recommend adding a powdered rooting preparation to the soil for balsam, for example, Potassium Humate, Ukorenit, Kornevin. You can also lightly sprinkle living balsam roots with them. After transplanting, watering needs to be adjusted. Plant the flower in slightly moist soil, the first watering is carried out after the soil has dried. It is recommended to add Zykron to the water for irrigation every once in a while (2 drops per 1 glass of water, 5-6 drops per 1 liter of water). Feeding can be done only after a month after transplantation.


The balsam withers and its leaves fall off. A light cobweb is visible on the stem of the plant. Balsam leaves are covered with yellowish specks; later the leaves curl and dry out
. Impatiens disease: spider mites. This pest, up to 2 mm in size, lives on back side balsam leaves and feeds on its juice. Treatment of the disease: isolate the plant. Next, treat it with a solution of the drug (to choose from) Agravertiv, Actarin, Avertiv, Actellik. Carry out the treatment 2 times a week. Treatment lasts up to 1 month. Since the cause of spider mites on balsam is heat air and its low humidity, it is recommended to regularly spray the flower. If the balsam blooms, then there is no need to spray it. It is enough to place a bowl of water or moistened expanded clay next to the flower. To quickly cure the plant, it needs to be given a cold shower, the water temperature should not exceed +17 degrees. IMPORTANT! During such a shower, you need to cover the soil in the pot with polyethylene. Cold water can damage the roots.


Balsam withers on one side
. Cause of the disease: waterlogging of the soil. Control measures: normalize watering. To prevent balsam leaves from wilting, it should be watered only after completely dry soil. How to save the plant is described above.

You can read how to grow balsam from seeds.


Balsam leaves wither. appeared on the leaves brown spots in the form of circles.
Cause of the disease: waterlogging of the soil. The balsam is watered after the soil in the pot has completely dried. If the diameter of the pot reaches 17 cm, then watering is carried out once every 1.5 weeks. If the diameter of the pot is less than 17 cm, then the soil in it dries out faster, and therefore watering is carried out more often. Wet soil is a favorable environment for balsam diseases. To prevent their development, Fitosporin-M is added to the water for irrigation every once in a while.

Impatiens (Vanka wet) - diseases, pests, why leaves fall. Fast growing, almost continuously blooming and always elegant, balsams are considered one of the best indoor plants for beginning gardeners. Bright impatiens-lights, which delighted our grandmothers, are still desirable residents of window sills, loggias and garden plots. They respond to simple care with the formation of new buds and shiny foliage. But this too unpretentious plant sometimes becomes a victim of insect pests and pathogens of various diseases. What dangers threaten the balsam flower? How to identify them and, if necessary, provide treatment for ornamental plants? Most often, the reasons for the weakening of a green pet, its withering or cessation of growth are failure to comply with the required conditions of maintenance or lack of attention. In nature, balsams live in regions with a warm, fairly humid climate, where there are no sudden changes in temperature and, especially, frost. New Guinea balsams in a flowerpot The minimum permissible temperature for a balsam flower is 13 °C, but if an indoor or garden specimen is decorated with variegated foliage, then the air should not be cooled below 15 °C. The optimal temperature for flowering is 18–20 °C. In a hotter room, flowers fall off faster and the formation of new buds slows down. In addition, other serious problems are inevitable. It’s not for nothing that balsam has been called Vanka Mokry since ancient times. Plants are not only extremely critical of soil drying out, but also love moist air. Asking the question: “Why do balsam leaves fall?”, the gardener must analyze the conditions in which the flower is located. Operating heating devices affect both the room temperature and air humidity. The lower it is, the stronger the evaporation of moisture from the leaves, and the balsam weakens faster. This is also caused by frequent drying out of the soil, especially during active growth. Balsam flower in dry soil: as a result, flowering and the growth of new shoots are inhibited, and the leaves, starting from the lower ones, turn yellow and fall off. Insects and mites often take advantage of this situation. An excessive decrease in air temperature is also an unfavorable factor. Impatiens cannot tolerate even short-term cooling, so it is better to remove plants taken out into the garden or onto the balcony at night from the second half of summer at night. Impatiens diseases and their treatment At low temperatures, the need for moisture decreases, so watering must be reduced. If this is not done, the appearance of rot, other diseases and pests of balsam cannot be avoided. Downy mildew on balsam leaves: Among the diseases of balsam greatest harm plants located outdoors are affected by downy mildew. Several years ago, a real epidemic of this disease struck balsams in the United States. The development of infection was facilitated by: cool, humid weather; crowded plantings, in which moisture does not have time to evaporate from the soil surface; insufficient attention to plant care. The first signs of a disease caused by harmful fungi appear at temperatures below 16–18 °C with 100% humidity. The pathogens penetrate the leaf tissue with moisture, and within a couple of days healthy flower balsam is transformed. First, a whitish coating appears on the back of the leaves, then they turn black and fall off. Consequences of downy mildew on balsam: New foliage becomes smaller or growth stops altogether. As a result, only non-viable shoot remnants remain from the flowering balsam. To prevent plant death during cold weather: reduce the frequency of watering; protect balsams from cold dew; take measures to ventilate the room. At the first signs of the disease, all balsams affected by the disease are removed, and plants are treated with systemic fungicides without visible damage. Brown rot on balsam: Impatiens that are forced to grow in excessively wet soil often become victims of putrefactive bacteria. An additional factor contributing to the spread of dangerous fungi and microorganisms is low air temperature. In such conditions, plants need less moisture, their metabolic processes and growth slow down. Rot affects stems in contact with the ground, as well as leaves and other parts of the plant. An infected shoot or leaf stalk turns brown, becomes thinner and dies. The greatest attention to balsam disease and its treatment should be given if traces of gili are found on young specimens and seedlings that have just taken root. Balsam leaves affected by rotting: As a preventive measure, cuttings prepared for rooting must be treated with a systemic fungicide, then re-treatment is carried out during planting, not forgetting to irrigate the soil at the base of the stem well with the product. Insect pests, spider mites and balsam diseases: Impatiens with excess lighting: The balsam flower is not only moisture-loving, but also demanding of lighting. With a lack of sunlight: the shoots begin to stretch out and become thinner; foliage growth slows down; buds are poorly laid and opened. Direct sunlight will also not bring beauty and health to ornamental crops. The balsam flower quickly loses moisture, the natural course of metabolic processes is disrupted, and the plant inevitably weakens. Similar symptoms can be noticed when there is a lack of nutrients, when the plant has not been replanted or fertilized for a long time. As well as a long stay in dry air, this can attract diseases and pests to the exhausted balsam. The attack of thrips on impatiens can be recognized by the characteristic deformation of young foliage at the tops of shoots and changes in appearance growth points. As the infection progresses, the appearance of balsam flowers also changes. The edges of the petals become dry, brown, and in the center of the corolla the culprits of the plant disease are easily visible. Impatiens infected with thrips: Thrips are doubly dangerous, since they not only weaken the flower, disfigure it and prevent it from growing, these pests carry the mosaic virus, another disease of balsam. Young specimens are more susceptible to thrips infection than adults. The sooner signs of pests are noticed and treatment of plants with insecticides is started, the higher the likelihood of cure and preservation of the decorative value of the crop. Affected plants are isolated, and damaged parts of the bush are destroyed. Spraying is repeated several times, every 4–5 days, until insects at all stages of development are covered by the treatment. Aphids that colonize balsams outdoors, as well as thrips, contribute to the spread of various viruses on plants that cause mosaic disease. It can appear in the form of spots of different colors and shapes, gradually leading to the drying and falling of flowers and leaves. Manifestation of viral mosaic on balsam foliage: It is almost impossible to cure the affected specimens, so they are destroyed and increased attention is paid to preventive measures, that is, the fight against insect vectors. In addition to aphids and thrips, balsam is threatened by soil nematodes, whiteflies and all kinds of mites. To get rid of sucking insects, use systemic insecticides or proven home remedies, such as herbal infusions. But mites, as the most frequent “guests” on balsams, require a separate approach. Among the pests of balsams and their diseases, the spider mite is the most annoying and dangerous enemy of the ornamental crop. Signs of its appearance are easy to notice if you carefully examine: internodes; leaf petioles; back sides of leaf plates. Spider mite on a balsam flower: In addition to the thinnest web and tiny yellowish mites, up to 0.5 millimeters in length, the owner of the balsam will notice that the plant has become lethargic, the leaves have lost their shine, and the intensity of flowering has noticeably decreased. The spread of spider mites and other types of mites is facilitated by high air temperatures and low humidity. If you delay in taking control measures, the shoots, leaves and buds of balsam, infested with mites, will become covered with lifeless scabs, the plant will weaken and may die. Having noticed the presence of pests on a balsam flower, seriously affected parts of the plant are cut off, and the rest is treated with soapy water. It is best to use green or tar soap. The foam applied to the plant is washed off after 5–7 minutes, and the procedure is repeated a week later. If the degree of infection is high, the use of acaricides, for example, Fitoverm, Vertimek and other drugs, cannot be avoided. Impatiens infected with thrips: In addition to spider mites, balsams are also parasitized by other types of mites. The cyclamen mite causes deformation and cessation of growth of young leaves, lateral buds and shoots in general. A plant without growing points quickly dies. The same fate awaits cuttings taken from an infected balsam flower. Therefore in in this case It is important not only to repeatedly treat with an effective acaricide, but also to carefully inspect the plants used for propagation. Only compliance with agricultural technology and constant attention to flowering balsams will guarantee the health of the plants, their rapid growth and lush flowering both outside the house and on the indoor windowsill.

Impatiens have long been established on most window sills. This plant was discovered by scientists in the 17th century. It has about 400 species and comes from the hot countries of Africa and Asia. That is why in middle lane balsam in open ground grown only as an annual. You may know it by another name, of which it has plenty:

  • touch-me-not;
  • Vanka is wet;
  • Lizzie is diligent;
  • impatient.

All these names are given to it for some of its features. Impatiens blooms very luxuriantly most of the year. Its flowers can be double, simple, complex, similar to small roses. The flower size is small - 4-6 cm. The color is very diverse: yellow, white, purple, pink, red, as well as bicolor flowers. The stems are powerful, fleshy with short internodes. The leaves are classically shaped, sometimes elongated, and vary in green color.

Balsam leaves and stems are very juicy, that is, their cells contain a lot of water and little dry matter. This is well illustrated by a situation where there has been no watering for a long time: leaves and shoots quickly wither, hang like rags, losing their shape. Leaf turgor directly depends on their moisture saturation.

There is the opposite situation: good watering and high humidity lead to the appearance of small droplets of sweet liquid along the edge of the leaf. It is for this ability that the balsam received the name Vanka wet.

Why do problems arise and how to solve them?

Drying

Why do indoor flower leaves dry and what methods can be used to solve this problem:

  • Hot and dry air. Moisture evaporates so quickly from the surface of the leaves that it does not have time to be replenished by the roots. This can happen when the flower is located near heating radiators. Move the plant away from the radiator or away from its heat. You can simply place a piece of cardboard on the windowsill that will protrude above the radiator, thereby deflecting the flow of hot, dry air.
  • Spider mite sucks all the juices out of balsam (read about how to fight spider mites on balsam). On the back of the leaf you can see a thin cobweb. The ticks themselves are very small and difficult to see. The main reasons for their appearance are high temperature and low humidity. The pest can be destroyed only with a strong systemic insecticide. It would be a good idea to lower the temperature and increase the humidity. You can spray the space around the balsam. You cannot spray the plant itself.
  • Watering too much. Flooded soil does not allow air to reach the roots. The roots lose their ability to absorb water and begin to rot. In such situation root system it simply stops working, which means that moisture stops flowing into the plant, the leaves dry out. You can try to save a flooded plant:
    1. Carefully remove the earthen lump and place it in a box or basin.
    2. Leave until dry.

    ATTENTION: But in general, good soil, under which there is drainage and holes in the bottom of the pot, it is impossible to fill. Excess moisture simply flows out. Assess the soil structure in the pot.

  • Poor soil, in which there is nothing nutritious left, is not able to feed the flower. Without food, the plant dies. It is necessary to replace the soil with more fertile one. You can buy soil mixture for begonias or other flowering indoor plants. If you prepare the soil yourself, then you need to add half the amount of compost or leaf humus to ordinary soil, and also add sand for structure.
  • sunlight- this is not only a necessary need for the plant, but in some cases, a serious danger. If the sun shines very brightly and the plant is standing on a south-facing window, it may simply fry. Don't leave it in the hottest conditions summer days balsam on the most illuminated windowsill; it is better to place it next to the window in the room.
  • small pot does not allow the plant to feed normally, the roots rest against the walls and bottom of the pot, there is almost no soil. It is urgent to transplant the flower into a large container. Do not overdo it, the container should be only 2-3 cm larger.

Improper care often leads to balsam leaves losing their beautiful natural color and looking unhealthy. For example, the leaves of the plant turn white and become limp.

Reasons and solutions for this:

Fall off

Causes and solutions:

  • If they fall off, you need to look for whitefly larvae on the back of the leaf. Small white grains. Found - treat the flower with insecticides.
  • Whole healthy leaves may fall off as a result of stress. Sudden changes in temperature and humidity, moving the pot to a new place, draft, watering with cold water, moving the plant from the store to the house after purchase. Remove the dangers from the plant and allow it to recover.
  • Waterlogged soil can cause leaves to drop; do not water the plant until the top layer of soil dries out.
  • An abrupt cessation of watering can lead to loss of leaves; moisten the soil in a timely manner and do not force it to dry out.
  • Lack of light. Long bare shoots are observed in plants that do not get enough sun. Try to find a more illuminated place for the balsam, or illuminate it with a special lamp.
  • Lack of nutrition, which occurs due to poor soil, or when all the soil in the pot is absorbed by the roots. It's time to transplant the flower into normal soil.

Causes and solutions:


Curl up

Leaves curl if infested with spider mites or other types of mites. Only a very strong systemic insecticide can help in the fight against such pests. In addition, mites love dry and warm air, so during the treatment period, it is better to place balsam away from heating devices and provide increased humidity around the plant.

ADVICE: You can spray the air around the plant, or place the pot on a stand in a tray of water. The bottom of the container should not be in the water or even touch it.

About why it doesn't bloom indoor balsam, but only its leaves grow, read, and from this you will learn about the reasons for the falling off of the buds and flowers of this plant and how to solve this problem.

Prevention

In order to avoid all of these problems, you need to take preventive measures:

  1. It is necessary to provide optimal conditions for plant life. Normal temperature conditions without changes and drafts. Average humidity levels. Sufficient lighting with protection from too aggressive ultraviolet radiation. An appropriately sized container with drainage holes. Light, fertile soil with a drainage layer underneath.
  2. Properly care for balsam. Ensure normal watering. It is better through a tray, this way you will avoid excess and lack of moisture. Make timely feedings. Every spring, transplant the flower into a larger container.
  3. Regularly inspect balsam for diseases and pests. If detected, isolate the plant from the rest and take measures to combat the enemy.

Conclusion

From all of the above, we can draw the following conclusion: all misfortunes will bypass your balsam if you provide it with optimal conditions and properly care for it. You can solve existing problems by reviewing your mistakes and eliminating them. I wish you healthy and beautiful leaves to your plants!

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