How to fix a toilet flush tank. Features of a toilet cistern with a button and a bottom water supply. Repair of a cistern with a bottom water supply

The flush mechanism for the toilet cistern malfunctions from time to time. To solve the problem, there are two ways out: call a plumber, waiting a long time and nervously for his arrival, or fix the bathroom yourself. The second option is cheaper and faster, but to carry out the work correctly, you need to know several nuances, including the structure of the unit and the features of its operation.

general information

There are several designs of cisterns available on the market. Regardless of this, they are characterized by the presence of a pair of required elements - a floor or wall container and an upper one. The operating principle of the flush mechanism for a toilet tank is based on the operation of a hydraulic valve, which includes flushing water through the action of gravity after pressing the active element (button or lever).

In the traditional installation scheme, the cistern and toilet are connected into one unit. The main advantage of the design is the combination of two elements without the need to install an additional exhaust pipe. Despite the efficiency and practicality of the classic design, built-in and wall-mounted analogues are becoming increasingly popular. This allows you to completely hide the drain tank, and the system is started by activating a push-button regulator located on the panel.

Types of flush mechanism for toilet cistern

Most often, push-button or rod drain devices are used. The first option is relevant for closed containers; the button is placed on the side or in the center of the tank. There is an option for installing a device with two buttons, one of which works in full mode, the second drains water at half the rate. This allows you to save resources if there is such a need.

Levers and chains are used in wall-hung toilet systems. To operate the mechanism, it is enough to pull the lever connected to the chain. It is usually located on the side of the tank. Regardless of the type of installation, a distinction is made between mechanical and automatic flushing. Repairing these two structures also has its own characteristics.

Water supply system

The flush mechanism in the toilet cistern provides for two types of water supply, namely:

Lateral entry. It involves placing shut-off valves in the upper part. This design is preferable in domestic systems. This solution is characterized by low cost and ease of maintenance, however, it is characterized by a high noise level during water collection. Improved modifications include a special tube that allows water to be supplied directly to the lower part of the tank, which significantly reduces noise.
Bottom feed. This technology is used by various manufacturers; it involves the flow of liquid from the bottom of the tank. This design is quieter, more efficient, but also more expensive.

The mechanism of the toilet cistern

To correctly identify and troubleshoot problems, it is necessary to have a general understanding of the structure of the mechanism in question. All modifications have a fairly similar design.

The internal part includes the following elements:

Shut-off and drain fittings that regulate drainage and prevent leakage of excess liquid. When filling the tank, water helps to press the special valve more tightly to the drain hole. As a result, fluid leakage stops. If this functionality is not observed and the tank leaks water, this indicates a malfunction or malfunction of the shut-off devices.
Filling valve. It is combined with water supply and is aimed at adjusting the water level in the drain tank. After reaching a certain level, the water supply stops. This operating principle is typical for a toilet cistern flush mechanism with a button. Modern models are equipped with a filling valve in the lower bowl and a vertical placement of the float.

There is no water supply to the tank: what to do?

This malfunction is one of the most common in the system. The main reason is clogging of the narrow part of the valve element. You can fix the defect yourself without any problems: you need to drain all the water from the tank, remove the valve along with the float and lever. Then, the opened hole must be cleaned with a needle or wire.

After this, unscrew the valve on the inlet pipe (a couple of turns) and wash out the residual clog with waste water. Next, you need to check for free passage of fluid. If everything is in order, you can mount the removed elements in their places.

Water leaking into the room

If water appears in the room, the flush mechanism for the toilet tank must be checked for tightness and integrity of the fasteners. At the same time, do not panic, blocking everything and everywhere, calling plumbers and ordering a new toilet. Most often, you can solve the problem in the following ways:

Replace the O-ring between the tank and the toilet bowl, first checking it for defects.
Carry out a similar operation with the gaskets of the mounting screws.

These malfunctions do not require careful diagnostics; they are detected by visual and tactile inspection. If the above methods do not help, it is recommended to remove the tank and replace the rubber seal on the drain channel, as well as related elements on the mounting bolts.

Repairing a model with a button

Repair of the toilet cistern flush mechanism with a button is carried out in the following sequence:

The locking ring near the button is unscrewed. You should not use extreme force in this case, since the element is made primarily of plastic.
Remove the cover and begin the repair.
If it turns out that the float is in the wrong position, correct it by first removing the cover.
If the bulb is deformed, it will need to be replaced. To remove it, fix the float in the upper position, unscrew the nut securing the pipe and drain, and remove the entire part of the free mechanism.
After removing the faulty bulb, install the new model in the reverse order of removal.
If the bolts for fixing the working elements are worn out, replace them.

Let's look at this process in more detail. It also consists of several stages, which include repairing the toilet cistern flush mechanism with a button:

The remaining water from the tank is completely removed.
It is unscrewed, which is located between the float valve and is released by tilting the tank shelf.
The faulty bolt and its paired counterpart are removed. This is important because then new paired screws made of brass or stainless steel are selected. Their size must be identical.
The earthenware under the pear seat is dismantled and thoroughly cleaned. Similar manipulations are carried out with the shelf and drain tank. The pear is lubricated with sealant, enhancing its tightness.

Assembly occurs in reverse order. To prevent deformation of the fragile material, all fasteners must be carefully tightened with light force. After assembly, the assembly is checked, observing the presence or absence of leaks.

Malfunctions and repair of the trigger lever

Do not rush to learn how to remove the flush mechanism in the toilet cistern if there is no water flushing when you press the button. In the future, this unit will definitely need to be replaced, however, temporary repairs can be performed. Most likely, the cause of the problem is a violation of traction.

Temporary troubleshooting is carried out as follows:

The rod is made from thick wire twisted into several turns. It will serve as a replacement for the original element, however, its validity period is very limited. Over time, the element will begin to bend and fail.
Before starting repair work on the drain tank, loosen the lid latches. To do this, turn the decorative nut a couple of turns. This approach will allow you to gain access to the serviced node.

Replacing the drain tank

How to change the flush mechanism in a toilet cistern? To do this you will need to open the lid. In its niche there are special drain holes with a diameter of 10-20 mm. They serve to supply water. One of these sockets is used to fix filling fittings equipped with a membrane-type valve.

Since the membrane is very sensitive to the quality of the liquid, its working life depends on the additional filter elements installed. In the case of a complete absence of filters, it is better to replace such a part with a lever rod analogue.

The usual method of solving problems arising from malfunctions of the toilet cistern is to completely replace the parts. It will not take much time and will not require a large financial investment. For cheap modifications, new fittings are purchased, taking into account the current dimensions of the connected pipes and threads.

Before installation, the joints are sealed, the reinforcement is tightened with a nut and bolt, and decorative plugs are inserted. Do not forget about seals and adjusting the tightening force of fasteners, which should be in moderation. Otherwise, ceramic and plastic parts may become deformed, after which you will have to start all over again.

Final stage

The bottom of the cistern is equipped with a special hole for attaching to the toilet. It is made using metal or plastic screws with nuts. Each type of fastener has its own advantages and disadvantages: the metal version is more reliable and durable, but is susceptible to corrosion. Plastic is not so durable, but is not afraid of moisture, although it requires the use of additional seals and gaskets. The main shut-off valve is mounted in the center of the cistern, secured with a washer and a special gasket.

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 4 minutes

Plumbing equipment is subject to intense operating loads and often fails. When the toilet tank constantly leaks, it causes great losses due to excessive water consumption. It is not advisable to call specialists because the device fails, since repairs mostly involve adjusting the tank mechanism. But to understand how to fix a toilet, you first need to know how it works. Let's figure out how to independently repair a toilet cistern with a button.

Toilet device

The toilet includes the following elements:

A toilet bowl connected to a sewer pipe with a sealed cuff.
Drainage tank with fittings that allow it to be filled with water and drained.

A water supply hose is connected to the tank. Depending on the design, it is connected from the side or from the bottom. The bowl and cistern are usually connected to each other using bolts and a seal.

Accessories components:

rod release mechanism with drain button;
a shut-off device (inlet valve) connected to a float;
rubber sealing gaskets.

How a toilet with a button works

A toilet tank with a button is a water seal that is filled with a portion of water, which is supplied to the bowl when the valve is opened. The flush is controlled by a button that needs to be pressed. At the same time, the valve opens and the water flows down under its own weight, washing the bowl. After the tank is released, the shut-off valve at the inlet opens, the tank is filled with the next portion to a certain level, regulated using a float. Access to the mechanism is provided by opening the top cover of the tank.

Preparation for repair

Before you can repair the toilet cistern, you need to open it. It is only accessible from the top if you remove the cover. In many modifications it is attached using a ring around the button. This ring must be pressed and turned counterclockwise. After prolonged use, the ring may not turn. Then a few drops of oil are applied to the attachment point. After the ring has turned, unscrew it, and then release the button from the plastic clothespins and remove the cover.

Do-it-yourself methods for repairing the tank mechanism

Through the upper hole in the tank the entire mechanism of the drain fittings is visible. It may have the following faults:

The tank is constantly leaking.
There is no water pressure at the inlet.
Uncontrolled drain mechanism.

The causes of these malfunctions can be different, and the method in which the toilet cistern will be repaired depends on them.

The plug (bulb) does not fit tightly to the drain hole. To avoid this, you should purchase high quality plumbing fixtures. The possibility of repair can be checked by pressing the rod with slight force. If water does not flow, the plug can be slightly weighted with additional weight or the stem can be leveled. You also need to periodically clean the seal from rust and salts, due to which the seal is broken and liquid constantly flows into the bowl.
The regulator does not shut off the water supply. At the same time, the tank will never overfill, thanks to the presence of an overflow tube. The serviceability of each element of the device is checked: float, intake valve, fasteners, rod. The failed part is replaced or the float mount is simply tightened.
Leaking from the tank into the room. It may have a crack or the gasket seal may be broken. Particular attention should be paid to the quality of the connection between the current tank and the bowl. It needs to be tightened, and if this does not help, the rubber gasket is changed. Another cause of a leak may be wear of the cuff at the junction of the bowl drain with the sewer pipe. The seal is replaced with a new one, having cleaned the connection of contaminants and treated the surfaces with sealant.
Weak pressure through the inlet valve. This usually happens if it becomes clogged. This can be prevented by cleaning or installing a filter in front of it.

Intake Valve Replacement

Before repairing the toilet, you should turn off the water supply valve. It is connected to the pipeline from the riser. Then the flexible hose is unscrewed from the inlet mechanism. It can be easily removed if the fastening is loosened. A new or repaired one is installed in its place. Assembly is carried out in reverse order. Plastic threads do not require sealing, and fluoroplastic tape is wound onto brass threads.

Replacing the drain valve

The main reason is the wear of the o-ring under the valve. To replace it, you need to remove the fittings and install a new gasket. Then reassemble in reverse order.

The water release button should always be used carefully and pressed without any sudden force.

Adjusting the water level in the tank

The water level can be easily adjusted with your own hands. To do this, the float is installed in a certain position.

The optimal level is considered to be when the water supply to the container has stopped, and a few centimeters remain to its upper edge.

The adjustment method depends on the design of the valve. The simplest one is bending a metal rod. If the float moves along a horizontal plastic guide, it is fixed using fastening elements in a certain position. With a vertical layout, it is moved with an adjusting screw.

When choosing the filling level, do not forget about the overflow tube. Its upper edge should be a couple of centimeters above the water level in the filled container. If it is located lower, water will constantly flow into the bowl through the overflow.

Tank Troubleshooting

The tank may leak water due to a crack in it. The same applies to the cup. In this case, the question of how to repair the flush tank or bowl does not arise: the entire toilet is usually replaced. A small crack in the top of the ceramic pieces can be repaired. To prevent it from spreading further and increasing water seepage, it is drilled at the ends and treated along the entire length with sandpaper. The work is done carefully.

Repair of a built-in tank (with installation)

It is more difficult to get to the tank mechanism installed behind a false wall. First of all, you should purchase a device that is highly reliable and rarely requires repairs. There should be inspection hatches in the wall through which you can get to the tank and replace the gaskets if the seal is broken. It is not possible to repair the drain fittings yourself due to the complexity of the design.

A coarse filter is installed in front of the hidden tank, which captures solid particles, which in most cases cause leaks.

Perhaps the main sign of comfortable housing, along with electricity, running water and gas, is the presence of a toilet. But any equipment ages over time, breaks down and requires repair. The toilet cistern is no exception and also breaks. This most often manifests itself in the form of water leaking into the toilet bowl or, even worse, onto the floor of the toilet room. It happens that the drain tank simply does not fill with water. These malfunctions are typical for both expensive and sophisticated toilets, and for the simplest ones.

But regardless of the price of the toilet, the operating mechanism and design of all toilet flush tanks are the same. The tank consists of only two valve units, shut-off and drain, which differ only in design. Having understood the mechanism of operation of these components, almost any home craftsman, without waiting for a plumber, and at minimal cost (gaskets and other spare parts will have to be purchased), can independently repair the compact by eliminating the leak.

Operating principle of a compact toilet flush device

The most common failure of the cistern is water leakage. Water may leak into the toilet bowl or where the tank attaches to the toilet bowl platform. When leakage occurs in the bowl, irritating yellow streaks of rust appear on its surface, which must be removed regularly. This small stream will spill hundreds of liters of water in a month. If the apartment has a water meter, then in addition you will have to pay for wasted water.

Before you start repairing your toilet cistern yourself, you need to have an idea of how its components work. Let's look at the device and mechanism of operation using the example of the simplest, classic drainage device.

Operating principle of the drain device

The cistern is a ceramic, plastic or metal container of any shape with a lid made of the same material. To drain water, there is a button or handle connected to the trigger mechanism on the tank.

In standby mode, the drain tank (in the photo below on the left) is filled to a predetermined level with water, the rubber bulb of the drain mechanism with its elastic side surface along the ring is tightly pressed by a column of water to the saddle. As a result, the tank drain hole is tightly closed.

Depending on the design of the trigger mechanism, if you pull up the handle or press it, the force will be transmitted through the rod to the pear, and it will rise up. The drain hole will open (pictured above on the right) and water will flow into the bowl.

It would seem that if you remove your hand, the rubber bulb will return to its place and shut off the water. But this does not happen and here's why. Please note that the inside of the bulb is hollow and there is always air in it, creating a lifting force. When the tank is full, the force of the water column is greater than the lifting force of the air in the bulb, so the bulb fits tightly to the saddle. But when the bulb is lifted, the column of water becomes small, and in addition, the water rushing into the drain hole pushes the bulb out. That's why she floats in the water until almost all the water is poured out. To ensure that water does not enter the cavity of the rubber bulb, and that the bulb itself “sits” correctly in the saddle, a guide tube is provided.

In modern flush tanks, to simplify the design, the overflow tube passes through the center of the bulb. In this case, the trigger mechanism is equipped with an additional float with a latch. If the bulb is raised, then until all the water has poured out of the drain tank, an additional float through a lever fixes the rubber bulb in the raised position.

Over time, even if the drain mechanism works properly, the rubber of the bulb loses its elasticity, as a result of which it wears out, cracks, and loses its shape at the point of contact with the saddle. In this case, the tight fit of the pear to the saddle is broken, and water begins to seep through the resulting gap.

This is the most common reason for a leaking toilet. To repair the drain tank and eliminate the leak, the bulb must be replaced, but you can try and repair it. But the rubber bulb may not fit tightly to the saddle for other reasons, for example, if dirt is stuck to the saddle or the trigger mechanism is stuck. In any case, to eliminate the leak, the drain tank must be disassembled.

Repair of toilet cistern drainage device

To get to the inside of the drain tank, you need to remove the lid from it. The lid is usually not secured by anything, and to open the cistern you just need to lift it. If the release handle is in the center of the cover, it will not allow the cover to be removed. First you need to remove the handle, for which you need to pull the handle up, take the stem with one hand and unscrew it with the other, turning it counterclockwise. If your fingers are not strong enough to hold the rod, you can use pliers.

After unscrewing the handle, the lid can be easily removed. A picture similar to the one in the photograph will appear before your eyes. You will be surprised by the amount of rust; there is always plenty of it in drainage tanks. Over time, rust falls out of the water and settles on the walls of the tank and mechanisms in places of contact with water. Rust does not interfere with the operation of the devices, but if the layer is thick, it is better to remove it by wiping the surfaces with a rag. The remaining thin layer of rust does not need to be removed.

After removing the cover, you first need to pay attention to the serviceability of the locking mechanism. The float should be no more than half immersed in water and the water level should not reach the level of the drain tube. The drain pipe is installed so that in the event of a malfunction of the locking mechanism, water cannot flow over the edge of the drain tank and flood the apartment. Excess water flows through this tube into the toilet bowl. If the water level is normal (this can be clearly seen from the rust line on the walls of the flush tank), then the cause of the toilet leak is in the flush device.

To prevent water from interfering with the repair, you need to turn off the general water supply tap or fix the float of the shut-off device in the upper position using any rod slightly longer than the width of the cistern.

Depending on the design of the overflow device, there are two types of bulbs. Float bulb and valve bulb. As you can see in the photo, on the left center of the bulb there is a threaded hole into which the rod is screwed. On the right side of the bulb there is a through hole in the center through which water is drained if the tank overflows. Using the same hole, the bulb is simultaneously attached to a rod, which is a tube.

In order to remove the float bulb for inspection, you need to hold it by the rod, unscrew it, and the bulb will be released. To get to the valve bulb, you need to grab the plastic ring that secures the base of the trigger mechanism and turn it counterclockwise. The pear will become available for inspection. In the photo, a new bulb valve is already installed on the drain mechanism.

When the pear has become accessible for inspection, you need to carefully inspect it along the perimeter of contact with the saddle. There should be no holes, irregularities or cracks on the surface of the rubber. The rubber should be elastic and bend when pressed lightly with your finger. If the rubber is covered with a layer of rust, then there should be no rust along the contact ring with the seat. If a strip of rust is found, then water is oozing from this place. This bulb needs to be repaired or replaced.

The photo shows a pear that has the above defects. It was replaced due to water leaking from the cistern into the toilet bowl.

Another confirmation of water leakage due to the bulb can be the presence of a rusty layer on the seat of the drain mechanism. This means that the pear does not fit tightly, and water seeps into this gap. Dirt may stick to the surface of the saddle. Therefore, before assembling the drain mechanism, you must thoroughly wipe the surface of the seat at the point of contact with the bulb.

The bulb on the trigger rod is held in place by four clamps, and considerable force must be applied to remove it. To make it easier to remove the pear, you need to press it down on one edge and when it comes off the latch, it can then easily be removed from the others. Here you need to pay attention to the contact surface of the inner hole of the bulb with the rod. There should be no traces of rust on the rod, where the pear is planted. As you can see in the photo, the pear sat tightly on the rod, and there were no traces of rust.

When the new bulb was put on the stem and the drainage device was assembled, it was discovered that the outer diameter of the new bulb was larger than the old one. The edges of the new bulb clung to the guides of the drainage device and moved with difficulty. I had to sand the edges using an emery board.

You can adjust the size of the bulb by rubbing the rubber, moving and turning the bulb on coarse sandpaper, but this will take a lot of time. The rubber is soft and does not wear well.

After assembling the drain mechanism, you need to release the float, wait until the drain tank is filled with water, and check the result of the work performed. It should be taken into account that water enters the toilet bowl through the guide cavities, which are wetted when the water is flushed, and for some time the water will drain from the walls of the cavities and leave a mark in the toilet bowl. Therefore, the conclusion can be made 15-20 minutes after draining the water.

It also happens that after replacing the bulb, water still oozes out a little, because the new bulb still needs to get used to the saddle, and at first it may let some water through. After several dozen releases of water, the pear will rub against the saddle and will tightly hold the water.

Restoring the locking mechanism bulb

During the next repair to eliminate a leak in the toilet, I was unable to find a suitable new replacement bulb in plumbing stores. I had to figure out how to repair the worn-out one.

If the locking mechanism bulb is still elastic, but unevenness has formed on its surface, then it is not difficult to restore it if you have an electric drill.

Since the bulb had a large hole in the center, the question arose about securing it in the drill chuck.

To secure it, take a bolt with an M10 nut and two washers, with an outer size exceeding the diameter of the hole in the bulb.

After this, the bulb was clamped by the bolt in the drill chuck, and the drill was started at low speed. Using medium-grit sandpaper lightly pressed against the surface of the bulb, it was sanded.

After sanding, the surface of the pear became matte without any traces of scratches or unevenness. Installing it in the toilet showed that water did not leak from the cistern into the bowl.

Operating mechanism and repair of the locking device
toilet cistern

To fill the toilet cistern with water to the required level, shut-off devices are used, which, according to the principle of operation, are membrane and lever (they are also called piston). In modern drainage tanks, membrane ones are mainly installed, since they are simpler in design and more reliable. But they have a significant drawback: they become clogged when small particles of dirt get into the water, so they require the mandatory installation of a fine filter at the water supply inlet. Currently, the vast majority of waste tanks in use are equipped with lever locking devices.

Operating principle of the locking device

The task of the shut-off device is to automatically maintain the water level in the drain tank. The easiest way to solve this problem is to use a float, which is a sealed container filled with air. The float, floating on the surface of the water, with the help of a lever rigidly connected to the locking mechanism, controls the water supply. In my toilet, it has been working flawlessly for 17 years (after maintenance), it was used before installation, it is unknown how many years, the lever water shut-off device is made of brass.

The locking mechanism consists of a cylindrical body, which is a hollow tube in the form of a tee. One side of this tube, resting with a flange on the wall of the drain tank through a rubber gasket, extends beyond its limits, is secured to this wall with a nut, and is then connected to the water supply network using a thread.

The housing contains a movable piston, which is a metal or plastic cylinder. At one of the ends of the piston there is a round recess (in the drawing on the right), into which a rubber valve gasket is inserted with interference. At the opposite end, a recess is made into which the cam of the float lever is inserted. The body also has two coaxial holes for installing an axis on which the float lever is movably mounted.

The locking mechanism works as follows. When the drain tank is empty, the float drops to its bottom, the float lever, following it, rotates on the axis and the cam of the lever moves to the left, presses on the left side of the sample in the rod and the rod also moves to the left. The rubber valve opens the way for water. The cistern begins to fill.

The water level in the drain tank rises and along with it, thanks to the float, the lever, turning clockwise on the axis, presses the cam on the piston and moves it to the right. The rubber valve rests against the filling tube, and the path for water is blocked. The locking mechanism remains in this state until the next release of water.

Malfunctions and repairs of the locking mechanism

When eliminating a leak in the drain tank, after removing the lid from it, first of all you need to make sure that the lever locking mechanism is in good working order. The float should float freely in the water, immersed approximately halfway in it, without touching the walls of the drain tank. If the float is deeply submerged in water, then water has entered it. The fact is that the float is pressed onto the lever without sealing. When filling the tank with water, some of it flows along the lever, and it happens that water penetrates into the cavity of the float.

To remove water from the float, you need to turn it, remove it from the lever and shake out the water. If you can’t shake the water out, you can remove it from the float by sucking it out with a rubber bulb with a thin tube attached to its end. To prevent water from getting into the float again, when the float is removed, it is enough to put a rubber or plastic flap on the lever, as in the photo.

When the float is removed from the lever, you need to carefully inspect its surface; it is quite possible that water got inside through the crack that formed. If a crack is found, it can be repaired using a soldering iron.

If the side valve of the cistern is leaking water

If the float is in order, and the side valve of the drain tank allows water to pass through, then the rubber valve in the piston has worn out and the water does not shut off completely. You need to remove the piston and replace the rubber valve. If you don’t have a ready-made rubber valve at your disposal, you can cut it with scissors or cut it out from a piece of rubber of suitable thickness.

In order to get to the rubber valve, you need to remove (if installed) the plastic cover from the end of the body of the water supply mechanism, remove the axis holding the float lever, and remove the valve by shifting it to the left. Typically, a car pin is used as an axis, which is a semicircular double steel wire bent into a widow. Such axles rust over time, the float lever falls off, and water begins to pour into the tank continuously. This is another malfunction of the locking mechanism.

For reliable operation, you need to replace such an axis with a brass screw with a nut, and then the axis, if necessary, will be easily removed and will serve without fail. That's what I did.

After completing the repair of the locking mechanism, you need to check the level of water filling in the drain tank. If you have a water meter, you can adjust the level according to its readings. For a complete flush, 7-8 liters of water should be poured into the tank. If not enough water is poured, then you need to bend the lever in the middle with an arc downwards, if more than necessary, then with an arc upwards. Here you can save money by adjusting the lever with the minimum necessary and sufficient amount of water pouring.

In practice, I have not encountered membrane-type locking devices, but according to plumbers, they cannot be repaired, and if they break, they are replaced entirely. The main thing here is to find the right one for your cistern. When purchasing a membrane-type locking device, notify the seller about a possible return or replacement. Usually sellers are cooperative.

Checking the overflow device of the drain tank

When repairing a cistern, it is imperative to check that the overflow device is installed correctly in height. In flush tanks with side-mounted locking devices, for convenience, it is possible to install a locking device both on the right and left side walls. For this purpose, there are holes in the drain tank with a diameter of about 20 mm. One is closed with a locking device, and the second is free, not closed with a plug.

If the level of the overflow tube is higher than the lower edge of the above hole, then in the event of a malfunction of the shut-off device, water will not flow into the toilet bowl, but onto the floor.

I once encountered such a case in practice. The neighbor’s locking device visually worked normally, but water periodically leaked from the tank onto the floor. Plumbers were called repeatedly, but they could not find the cause. Ultimately, it turned out that the end of the overflow tube was higher than the level of the side hole, and when the water pressure in the water supply increased at night, the valve of the shut-off mechanism could not completely contain the water. The cistern overflowed and water flowed through the side hole onto the floor.

If it is not possible to adjust the height of the drainage device, then you can simply grind off its plastic neck with a file to the desired height.

It happens that checking the drainage device showed that it is installed correctly and the water level cannot reach the height of the additional side hole, and there is a puddle on the floor under the tank. Water may still leak through the holes in the cistern where the toilet is bolted to the toilet platform due to wear of the rubber gaskets placed on the mounting bolts. You need to unscrew the nuts from the bolts and replace the gaskets. Tightening the nuts may also help.

If the sound of water bothers you when filling the drain tank

Some people are annoyed by the sound of water when the cistern is filling. The drain tank is especially noisy at the first moment after draining the water, since the water flows at maximum speed and there is a long distance to the water level.

To reduce noise, it is enough to put a piece of plastic or rubber tube on the nozzle of the locking mechanism of such length that it almost reaches the bottom of the drain tank. You can secure the tube to the body of the drain mechanism using a clamp or plastic wire.

A functioning bathroom is what is required for comfortable living in a house or apartment.

It is extremely unpleasant when the toilet breaks. If water constantly leaks, it is also costly. Water is paid according to the meter.

The product may not always be replaced.

In the case of a mechanical control system, you can repair the toilet cistern yourself. Before troubleshooting, you should decide on the type of drain and identify the cause of the breakdown.

Kinds

Cisterns

The devices differ in several design details.

Drain mechanisms

Lever. It is installed in separate products, where the tank can be located both above and below. Water drains into the toilet bowl when the lever is pressed.
Pneumatic. The water is drained after pressing the button of the pneumatic chamber.
Rod. The rod rises up, the mechanism clears the passage for liquid. The rod is always located on the tank lid.
Button. The drain mechanism operates by pressing a button located on the tank lid. Models with two drain buttons are available. When one button is pressed, half of the liquid is drained; when another is pressed, the entire reservoir is drained.

The reservoir is filled with liquid to the required level, after which the water supply automatically stops.

Valves

The type of valve depends on how the water is supplied to the tank.

Floatless systems come in bottom and side versions.

Such designs are equipped with a special camera. The system works according to Archimedes' law. The tank is filled with water and the location of the chamber changes, which stops the flow of liquid.

The side valve with float is manufactured in two versions: membrane and piston. In each option, filling the tank stops when a certain amount of water is collected.

The drain mechanism can consist of interchangeable parts or be a single set.

Connection type

Side. The tank is equipped with two holes on each side. A flexible hose is connected to one of the walls, and a plug is placed in the second hole. The disadvantages of this liner are excessive noise when drawing water and lack of aesthetics.
Bottom liner type. The hose for collecting liquid is mounted in the bottom of the tank. Filling is almost silent.

One model can be produced with two types of connection. Three mechanisms are present in each tank.

Locking or drain mechanism. Regulates drainage and controls overflow.
Bulk valve. The valve for filling the tank can be located either on the side or below. The float is always on top.
Drain device and overflow.

The main failures of the toilet tank are always associated with these three devices.

For your information. Mechanical damage to the tank itself (cracks or chips) cannot be repaired. The product will have to be replaced.

Troubleshooting cistern

Water from the tank flows onto the floor

If dampness or a puddle of clean water appears behind the toilet, this indicates that the gasket installed between the tank and the toilet has become unusable and must be replaced.

To make a replacement, you will first need to purchase an O-ring. Then follow the instructions to fix the problem.

Turn off the water supply to the toilet.
Drain the water from the tank
Disconnect the water supply hose
Release the tank from the lid
Remove the drain tank
Replace gasket
Reassemble in reverse order.

To increase the seal, you can use waterproof silicone.

Water is not delivered to the storage tank

This malfunction has several causes.

As soon as the water begins to flow freely, we install the valve, the valve with the lever and the float in its original position. Sometimes the valve cannot be cleaned, in which case it should be replaced.

Water constantly leaks into the bowl

The reason is the incorrect operation of the float. It does not stop the flow of liquid, and it constantly flows through the overflow.
The lever has changed position to inoperable
The water supply valve is broken

If the design of the tank is from Soviet times, you should start identifying the fault with the float. Perhaps it burst, water flowed into it and it can no longer rise and stop the flow of water. If this is the reason, the part must be replaced.

Modern toilets have a flush column and do not have a float. This part cannot be repaired, simply replaced with a new one.

Water may leak due to a broken inlet valve.

Check the lever next to the valve for mechanical damage.
We empty the tank and watch how water fills
You should move the lever. It closes the valve. If there is a bend, straighten the lever.
The lever doesn't move. A jam has occurred. We are replacing the unit.

If the intake valve itself breaks down, it needs to be replaced. The part is dismantled, a similar one is purchased from the store and installed in the system.

The internal fittings have failed

Sometimes several faults occur simultaneously. The entire drain system should be replaced.

Replacing the drain mechanism with bottom water intake.

Close the tap that supplies water to the tank and empty it of liquid.
Remove the cover.
Unscrew the flexible hose
Turn the top of the column and remove it
We dismantle the tank by first unscrewing the retaining bolts
Remove the inlet valve and drain button
We take out the old mechanism
We install new fittings.
We put the tank in its original position.

Loud noise when drawing water

This fact is not a malfunction. Top supply tanks are noisy.

Models are available where you can adjust the diameter of the hole. It won't get rid of the noise completely, but it will reduce its level.

If it is not possible to make adjustments, there is a modification option.

Take a rubber tube with an inlet diameter and a length of up to 30 cm.

The tube is placed over the inlet hole, fixed, and the end is lowered to the bottom of the tank.

This prevents water from falling from a height; filling begins from the bottom, which means the noise disappears.

A button or two buttons are stuck

A toilet model with two flush buttons is in demand. In this product, sometimes the buttons get stuck. To make repairs, you need to remove the cover.

First, the nuts holding the buttons are unscrewed, after which you can open the tank. Pressing the buttons at the same time sometimes helps them fall into place.

If the manipulation does not work, you should check the button shaft. Sometimes it gets clogged. After cleaning the shaft, repeat the check. If there is no result, a new part must be installed.

The unit is dismantled, exactly the same one is purchased and installed.

Results

If there is a malfunction, it is not always necessary to buy a new product; repairing it yourself is often very simple.

When installing sanitaryware in a new house or recently purchased apartment, you need to worry in advance about the correct installation of the toilet, the tight connection of hoses and pipes, the serviceability of gaskets and fasteners. Old plumbing also occasionally requires a preventive inspection. Due to poor water quality, the fittings quickly wear out and fail, and then urgent repairs of the drain tank are required. Delay costs your home, including your downstairs neighbors, flooding.

What does a cistern consist of?

At first glance, it’s a simple device: a container equipped with a drain and water supply system. When you press the button, the mechanism releases water, the supply valve opens, and the empty container is refilled.

The main functional parts of the tank: 1(1) – inlet (filling) fittings; 1(2) – drain (drain) mechanism; 1(3) – water drain button. All details are interconnected

Video: how to remove the toilet lid

Do-it-yourself cistern repair

It turns out that even such a basic device can break down. Let's take a closer look at how you can troubleshoot problems without resorting to the help of plumbers.

Troubleshooting the float mechanism

If water constantly fills the tank and immediately flows into the toilet, look for a problem in the float mechanism. There may be several reasons for the breakdown:

intake valve wear;
misalignment of the lever (“rocker arm”);
displacer malfunction.

The float (buoy) from long-term use develops cracks through which water enters it. It sinks and ceases to perform its main function - it simply needs to be replaced.

If the lever is bent, it is necessary to return it to the correct, horizontal position. The location of the lever is approximately 2 cm below the hole through which water enters.

Modern drain fitting kits have a different structure - they do not include a traditional float on a rocker arm, although the principle of operation of the mechanism has been preserved

The float mechanisms installed in the tanks of modern toilets can be divided into piston and membrane. The first ones have the simplest design, in which a piston with a sealing collar is pressed against the valve seat and thus shuts off the water supply. The latter are a relatively newer development - they can be found in the vast majority of modern waste cisterns. Instead of a piston with a gasket, they are equipped with a membrane made of wear-resistant silicone or latex, thanks to which the noise level can be significantly reduced during water collection.

The diaphragm valve of the flush tank, although it has a more complex design, has gained wide popularity due to its high reliability and quiet operation.

It is not difficult to guess that failure of the locking mechanism is most often associated with wear of the sealing gasket in the first case and the membrane in the second. In addition, malfunctions of the float valves may be associated with malfunctions of other parts of the mechanism:

control lever axis;
saddles;
thrust cap.

Although the availability of inlet fittings of any size in the retail chain makes it possible to replace the entire assembly, there is no need to rush into this. A thrifty owner will definitely disassemble the mechanism and, after identifying the cause of the leak, will fix the breakdown using available means. Thus, the sealing gasket can be cut from a piece of genuine leather or thick rubber, the axle can be replaced with a piece of thicker wire or a nail, and the thrust cap can be cut from a suitable sealing material.

How to get rid of noise when filling the tank

The loud noise that accompanies the process of filling the tank with water creates discomfort for others. It is easy to get rid of it by adjusting the diameter of the inlet hole or adding a small plastic tube to the fittings. The water will no longer flow freely and noisily into the tank, but will flow through the tube, and accordingly, the loud sound will disappear. To do this, we put a tube 30-35 cm long with one end over the hole, and place the other below the water level with the tank drained. Even if the noise does not completely disappear, the plumbing will become quieter.

A plastic or rubber tube placed over the inlet hole muffles the noise of water entering the tank. This device is suitable for tanks with top supply

Replacing bolts in case of leakage

Here, most likely, the steel bolts that secure the tank to the toilet shelf have rotted - they need to be urgently replaced. Having purchased a new set of bolts, we proceed to dismantling the tank:

turn off the water by turning the valve perpendicularly;
dry everything inside and remove any remaining rusty fasteners;
unscrew the nut and disconnect the inlet valve;
unscrew the old bolts securing the tank to the toilet shelf;
remove the tank from the thick rubber cuff;
remove the old bolts. Both must be removed, even if only one of them is faulty;
we clean the connection points of the bolts with the tank and the tank with the toilet;
tighten new bolts;
install the tank on the shelf, having previously secured the cuff;
tighten the fasteners carefully so as not to damage the sanitaryware;
let the water flow and check if it is leaking at the bottom of the tank; We flush the water a couple of times and check again.

Sometimes a leak may appear a little later, so for two days it is worth carefully examining the problem area from time to time. As you can see, it is not always necessary to carry out major repairs - sometimes it is enough to replace the fasteners.

To unscrew the bolts connecting the flush cistern to the toilet shelf, no special tool is needed: usually “ears” are provided for easy gripping

Toilet cistern fasteners are available at every plumbing store. The price of the cheapest one is 40-50 rubles, the more expensive option will cost 250-300 rubles

Expert opinion
Victor Kaploukhiy
If the toilet has been in use for a long time, then most likely the bolts connecting the tank and toilet bowl are so rusty that they cannot be unscrewed even with the use of universal penetrating lubricant WD-40. In this case, only a grinder will help, with which you need to carefully cut off the bolts from the underside of the shelf. It is best if someone at home holds the tank at the same time - this way it is guaranteed to remain intact. When looking for replacement fasteners, choose brass hardware. This alloy perfectly resists corrosion, so if the need for disassembly ever arises, you can do it without difficulty.

What to do when water constantly flows

There can be no talk of saving water if it constantly flows in a thin stream into the toilet, not allowing the required volume to accumulate in the container.

Most likely, the problem is in the siphon membrane, which has worn out and lost its ability to seal the hole hermetically. The problem is solved by simply replacing the membrane with a new one.

To do this, you need to perform several steps:

drain the water;
remove the siphon;
remove the old membrane and install a new one;
place the siphon in place, attach it to the lever, and screw in the fastening nut.

Sometimes the problem is not the membrane, but a broken rod, which can also be easily replaced.

The siphon membrane is located at the bottom of the drain fittings. It is a rubber gasket that ensures a tight connection of parts

Expert opinion
Victor Kaploukhiy
Thanks to my varied hobbies, I write on various topics, but my favorites are engineering, technology and construction.
The constant flow of water from the tank into the toilet is often not associated with any malfunction. A similar thing happens when, for some reason, the overflow regulation is disrupted. If the drain tube is positioned correctly, the water level in the tank will be 20 mm below the plane of its cut. At the same time, the edge of the drain channel must be more than 10 mm from the inlet pipe of the flexible liner.

What to do if the drain tank does not fill

So, suddenly the water completely stopped flowing into the tank. Will it be enough to repair it yourself, or will you have to turn to plumbers? Let's consider three ways to solve this problem.

First, let's check the serviceability of the supply hose. We turn off the water, disconnect the hose from the tank and place it above any container (you can also above the tank). We unscrew the valve a little and let the water flow again. If everything is in order with the hose, water will flow freely into the container. Otherwise you will have to replace it.

It is possible that the connection point of the supply hose is clogged, since after the pipeline is repaired, sand and other mechanical contaminants enter the water and can clog small holes. You can try to clear it with a long, sharp object, such as a screwdriver.

In addition, you should make sure that the coarse filter is clean if a modern shut-off valve with a diaphragm valve is installed in the tank. To do this, you need to disconnect the flexible line and use pliers with thin jaws to remove the filter from the supply pipe. To clean it from dirt, just place the part under a strong stream of water. If the filter is clogged with persistent deposits, then it should be placed in vinegar or a solution of citric acid for several hours, and then cleaned with a brush with stiff bristles.

The cost of a new supply hose is about 100 rubles. It is better to buy a product that has a shut-off valve - if the cistern leaks, it is much easier to turn off the water

If the failure of the float mechanism is due to wear of the intake valve, then it would be advisable to replace the assembly. The time and effort spent on repairs are not worth the couple of hundred rubles that will have to be paid for new fittings. As practice shows, only a few succeed in repairing the locking mechanism - most likely, you are not one of them.

Replacement of fittings

If you don’t want to tinker with small parts of the fittings that have become unusable, you can simply remove the old one and install a new mechanism purchased in a store in its place.

When removing old fittings, pay attention to faults. It may not be necessary to completely replace the mechanism; sometimes it is enough to change one small part

Fitting kits for flush tanks have design differences. For example, their structure varies depending on the type of eyeliner - side or bottom

First, let’s figure out how best to disassemble the structure using the example of reinforcement with bottom connections:

turn off the water;
carefully unscrew the button;
remove the cover;
disconnect the liner;
We remove the drain column in parts: first we dismantle the upper part (rotating 90 degrees);
unscrew the fasteners of the drain tank;
we place it on the toilet for further work;
unscrew two nuts: securing the valve and column, take out the second part of the fittings;
we install a new mechanism and carry out reverse work on installing the tank.

As you can see, changing the components of the tank is not difficult: the whole operation takes no more than 10-15 minutes. Another advantage of doing it yourself is that no special tools are required; all actions are carried out using hands, pliers and wrenches.

All about car tuning