Make waterproofing between the foundation and the wall. Forgot to lay waterproofing between the wall and the foundation: how to correct the mistake. Basement waterproofing with moderate soil moisture

Good afternoon Need urgent advice. We purchased a house that had a roof without waterproofing. I will list what is there: there are rafters, the sheathing has been laid on these rafters, then there is corrugated sheet metal, but nothing is provided for waterproofing. How can you get out of this situation without resorting to complete dismantling of the roof? I would like to bypass the complete dismantling of the roof. Maybe somehow you can put a layer of waterproofing film between the rafters, and then, for example, put insulation? If there is any solution, I will be very glad to hear the opinion of experts. I will be grateful in advance for any help. (September 19, 2013, Yuri)

Answer

Of course, it is best to do everything according to the construction rules from the very beginning, which means dismantling all the roofing material and reinstalling the roofing pie in the required sequence. Some solutions to this problem exist, but all of them cannot be considered absolutely correct. First of all, you can try nailing the waterproofing to the bottom of the rafters. There is also a significant drawback to this approach. Condensation will accumulate and then flow onto the mauerlat and walls.

You can try fixing the waterproofing between the rafter system. In this case, you need to be very careful and allow a slight sagging of the film.

Such decisions cannot be considered 100% correct, as this can harm the rafter system and the entire roof. However, as a temporary measure, such actions are quite acceptable. Only in this case will it be hardly possible to make the attic space “inhabitable” in the winter. The attic will likely remain cold.

It is very important to pay attention to the waterproofing film itself. They come in different types: some allow steam to pass through very well, while others, on the contrary, contain it well. Therefore, it is necessary to consult with a specialist before purchasing when choosing this important roofing material.

An equally important point will be the process of laying waterproofing. Be careful to lay the film correctly, meaning on the right side. Most often it is recommended to lay the film with the rough side down, this will prevent condensation.

The term “basement” refers to the base of a building, the space between the foundation and the wall. If you have a private house with a strip foundation, then the plinth is considered to be the part located above ground level. To ensure high-quality ventilation, its height must be at least 30 cm, but it can reach a meter or even more if there is a basement in the building.

Many developers are wondering whether waterproofing is needed between the foundation and the basement? To answer this question, let’s look at the physical processes occurring in the structures of your home.

Even the most beautiful building, poorly adapted to protect from environmental conditions, will not bring joy to those who live in it.

Applicable to the plinth, several basic requirements can be distinguished:

High strength, as it supports the entire building.
Resistance to precipitation and reliable protection from any adverse influences.
The absence of such a factor as the penetration of moisture from the soil into the structure. In certain situations, it can climb several meters up walls, which can lead to dampness in the rooms.

As you know, the material always contains tiny cavities, so-called capillaries. If they are not additionally waterproofed, they will allow moisture to pass through, which will cause many problems. Firstly, there is dampness in the premises, and secondly, when frost sets in, the moisture will freeze and expand; many such freezing-thawing cycles can destroy even the most durable material.

It is worth noting that for the best result, not only horizontal waterproofing between the base and the foundation is necessary, but also vertical protection of the structure. Only a set of these measures guarantees a high level of structural protection, so we will look at how to make your base as secure as possible.

Main features of horizontal waterproofing

A very important stage at which many developers who carry out work with their own hands make a typical mistake. It consists in the fact that insulation is carried out only between the base and the wall. That is, moisture from underground rises right up to the wall ().

And if the underground foundation does not freeze so much and is exposed to adverse effects, then the above-ground part, saturated with moisture, is destroyed much faster than it would be if protective work was carried out correctly.

The work must be done correctly as follows:

The first hydraulic barrier is installed at a level approximately 20 cm above the soil level. It will protect the base from groundwater from the capillaries of the foundation.
The second layer is installed at the junction of the base and the wall. It is similar to the first one.

Thanks to the two-layer system, your structure is protected much more reliably. Now you can be sure that moisture from the soil will not penetrate into the house. If the above-ground part also consists of concrete, then a protective barrier is installed between the layers when pouring in at least two stages.

Let's consider what types of materials can be used for these works and the features of the use of each of them.

Ruberoid

Roofing felt is the most common, one might even say traditional, option for waterproofing structures. Working with it is quite simple: strips of the required width are cut and laid on the foundation. Practice proves that it is better to lay the material in two layers - this will ensure the necessary reliability.

Its main advantage is availability and low price. The material is sold everywhere, so finding it will not be a problem. The quality of the protective cover is quite good, but there are still many modern materials that are superior to roofing felt.

In the photo - roofing felt - the leader in popularity among developers

Stekloizol

This material is available under various brands in various versions.

It can be based on fiberglass or fiberglass and has many advantages:

High strength due to the use of modern production technologies and the use of only high-quality raw materials.
High degree of reliability of the waterproofing coating due to the large thickness of the material.
Simplicity of work - it is easy to cut, with the help of a burner the material can be melted, and it will stick perfectly to the base, filling the voids.

It is worth noting that a bottom layer of insulating material is used to protect the foundation

Bituminous materials

This group includes bitumen and various mastics based on it. Bitumen itself can crack after 2-3 years, but between layers of concrete or brick the material is reliably protected from adverse influences, so it lasts much longer.

Working with these compositions is quite simple, mastics are immediately ready for use, so it is better to use them. Cooking bitumen is not the most interesting, and also unsafe, activity.

A good solution would be to use bitumen mastic together with glass insulation or roofing felt: you smear the base with the composition, and then glue the material. This way you can achieve the highest degree of structural protection.

Liquid rubber

A relatively new material that is quite common among developers for a number of reasons:

It has high performance qualities and elasticity; even with cracks in the foundation, the waterproofing cover will remain intact.
The penetrating ability of the composition is very high - it penetrates into the smallest irregularities and reliably clogs all capillaries.
Excellent adhesion to all materials used in the construction of the plinth. The cover holds up well.
Easy to apply - with a spatula you can create a protective coating of the highest quality with your own hands.
The composition does not need to be heated for use, it is absolutely fireproof and has no unpleasant odors. Everything is quite simple, but the instructions that come with the material are required to study.

There are two types of materials - bitumen-based and polyurethane-based. Each of them is characterized by high performance properties.

Also, depending on the volume of work, both manual and machine application methods can be used. For the machine method, two-component compositions are used; with their help, a huge amount of work can be done in a short time.

Advice! You should not skimp on the quality of protection of structures from moisture, so it is best to use liquid rubber, so you can be sure that even after 20 years the strength of the coating will be at the highest level.

Vertical waterproofing of the plinth

For the best protection in combination with horizontal, it is necessary to carry out vertical waterproofing. It consists of creating a waterproof barrier on the entire outer surface of the foundation and plinth. There are several types of protective covers, let's look at each of them.

Penetrating treatment

It is carried out using compositions based on waterproof cement and quartz fillers or using liquid glass (silicate based). This method guarantees the durability of the coating and reliable protection of your home from groundwater and precipitation ().

If you use liquid glass, you need to apply it either with a roller or a brush; it is better to process it in two layers. The resulting protective cover will not allow moisture to pass through even after many years.

Penetrating compounds are applied with a brush in a layer of no more than 3 mm, after drying the treatment is repeated, and you can be sure of reliable protection.

Paint insulation

It is produced using various paints and varnishes based on polyurethane and other components. The simplicity of its application may be in favor of this method.

There are many more disadvantages: to ensure reliability, you need to apply 6-8 layers, and this is a lot of time. This cover is very short-lived, which makes its use unjustified.

Coating insulation

We can say that this is the most common way to protect structures from moisture.

There are many compositions with which work is carried out, let’s consider the main ones:

Bitumen, the material, must be boiled and applied hot, which causes a lot of inconvenience. In addition, such a cover begins to crack after just a few years.
Bitumen mastics do not need to be heated, they are ready for use, which is undoubtedly a big plus. The coating made from them is stronger, but still not durable enough.
Liquid rubber is the most durable and technologically advanced material. It is applied with a spatula, and if the volumes are large, with a special installation. The coating is very durable due to the elasticity of the hardened material. This is rightfully the leader of this segment.

Roll insulation

A very reliable way to protect the structure. It is carried out using fused rolled materials - glass insulation and analogues, roofing felt. Some pre-treat the surfaces with mastic, some simply heat them with a torch and glue the insulation

This method has one drawback - the price, but otherwise it is quite reliable, because a whole protective cover is formed around your base, which is very durable.

Advice! You should not overheat the material with a burner - its structure may be damaged, and the cover will be much less reliable.

Conclusion

You should not neglect the protection of the foundation of your house, this is fraught with both dampness in the premises and destruction of the structure, and this promises huge repair costs. The video in this article will explain some of the features of base protection (

After the service life of bituminous mastics or roofing felt has been exhausted, waterproofing the old foundation of a house becomes relevant to increase the service life of power structures. In this case, it is necessary to protect the side surfaces of the foundation from soil moisture, groundwater and wastewater, lay drains around the perimeter, and make a horizontal shut-off waterproofing between the foundation and the walls. If you are interested in horizontal cut-off waterproofing, then you are interested, if vertical, then read on.

If at the construction stage they forgot about waterproofing the foundation of the house or did it incorrectly, or the old protective coating has expired, it is necessary to carry out a set of measures again to solve the following problems:

cutting off the walls from the basement part of the foundation - the structural materials of the housing frame draw moisture from reinforced concrete structures and collapse much faster;
protection of reinforcement from corrosion, concrete from destruction, increasing in volume by water, when freezing inside the structure of the material.

For example, if a cottage is built without a horizontal waterproofing carpet, the lower crowns of the frame rot and the brickwork collapses. In the absence of waterproofing of the outer edges of the foundation, the annual opening of cracks in concrete increases by 0.2 - 0.5 mm.

Attention! If the home has a basement, then the problem can be solved from the inside, but for MZLF you will have to expose the tape from the outside to provide access to concrete surfaces.

Vertical external waterproofing

The main difficulty when carrying out waterproofing repairs is the inaccessibility of concrete surfaces. In addition, the foundation must be protected from the outside. Therefore, it is necessary to destroy the blind area and dismantle the façade and basement cladding.

After the tape is exposed, the foundation can be waterproofed using several technologies: plastering, pasting over or coating with appropriate materials to protect the house from destruction.

Coating materials

Waterproofing the foundation with your own hands by coating with epoxy, polymer, or allows you to obtain a continuous film layer:

the film is removed from the surface - chemical milling by sequential application of a cleaner, an activator, sandblasting, cleaning an angle grinder with a metal brush;
the seams are deepened - grooves 2.5 x 2.5 cm minimum, in order to lay a bentonite strand in them;
surface treatment – 2 – 3 layers of mastic on top of a primer, which serves to increase the surface roughness.

After this, the house will receive protection from the foundation and walls getting wet. The disadvantage is the low mechanical strength of the film, the integrity of which can be damaged even by stones present in the backfill materials. Therefore, mastics often serve as the bottom layer of complex waterproofing. Before final drying, membranes, polyethylene films are glued onto them, or roll materials are fused.

Pasting materials

You can waterproof the foundation of a house with your own hands - with films or membranes. In the absence of plantar insulation, the rolls are launched to the bottom of the trench (10 - 20 cm) and fused from the bottom up. The films are fixed to the surface with a special polymer glue; membranes and hydroglass insulation can have a self-adhesive layer.

Waterproofing with roll materials.

If the groundwater level (GWL) is high or there is a possibility of its seasonal rise, three layers of material are required. If the groundwater level is low, two layers of waterproofing carpet are sufficient. The main nuances of the technology are:

longitudinal seam of adjacent sheets - overlap 10 cm minimum;
transverse seam - important when building up rolls for buried strip foundations, it is 20 - 30 cm, the top roll covers the bottom one to avoid leaks, similar to laying roofing materials;
The arrangement of sheets is only vertical.

To increase strength, a thin reinforcing mesh (polymer, galvanized, usually used for plaster coatings) is installed between the layers of adhesive and coating insulation.

Attention! If roll waterproofing is used independently, the seams are treated with mastic. When performing complex protection, the mastic layer is under the hydroglass insulation by default; the seams do not need to be processed additionally.

The disadvantage still lies in the insufficient mechanical strength of the coating. The problem is completely solved by classic or crush-sliding thermal insulation. In the first case, the surface is covered with high-density polystyrene foam. An additional horizontal layer of EPS is laid under the blind area at a level of 30–40 cm from the ground. This makes it possible to completely compensate for swelling, retaining geothermal heat in the soil layers adjacent to the foundation. In the second option, the EPS surface is additionally covered with polyethylene (attached only at the top to the wall). After that, sheets of soft thermal insulation PSB-S (foam plastic) are pressed against the polyethylene with the trench backfill material without fixing it to the wall. When swelling, the outer layer wrinkles. It moves upward along the slippery film and returns to its original position in the spring.

Waterproof plasters

Do-it-yourself foundation waterproofing can be made in the form of a plaster layer. Cement-sand mortar is not suitable for these purposes; special dry mixtures with polymer additives are used that clog the pores of concrete in the top layer:

a plaster mesh is mounted on the surface;
the surface is wetted, then the first layer of 0.5 - 1 cm is applied;
After drying, finishing plastering is carried out to a total layer thickness of 2 - 3 cm.

Waterproofing the foundation with special plaster mixtures.

This is a budget solution for a country house in comparison with coating and pasting technologies.

Attention: If there is heavy rainfall in the operating region, or there is a high groundwater level in the area, buildings are required. Drains are placed at the level of the base of the foundation and drain water by gravity into an underground container.

Internal waterproofing

If there is a basement floor in a building, waterproofing the foundation of the house from the inside is more often used. Films, rolls and membrane materials are practically useless here:

after the concrete gets wet, they peel off from the structural material;
mechanical fixation is not possible;
the effectiveness of protection is extremely low.

Injection waterproofing

From the inside, injection waterproofing of the foundation is often used, which can be done with your own hands only with sufficient practice. The difficulty lies in determining where to drill through holes in the supporting structure, which weaken its strength. The technology looks like:

preparation - surfaces are examined for cracks and leaks;
sealing cracks - with compounds, for example Penepurform or any other analogues;
holes - holes along the diameter of the injectors according to the diagram at an angle of 45 degrees;
injections - packers are inserted into the pits, with which repair mixtures are injected.

Injection waterproofing of the foundation from the inside.

The components are mixed before injection, operations are carried out after the concrete has been heated to 35 degrees. The disadvantage is the lack of necessary equipment in the arsenal of a home craftsman. Even its rental costs more than external waterproofing after digging trenches.

Volumetric waterproofing

The manufacturer Penetron and many others produce repair mixtures for any operating conditions. All work can be done with your own hands to make all reinforced concrete structures of the house absolutely waterproof. The principle of operation of volumetric waterproofing is as follows:

sealing of input nodes of engineering systems, connections, interfaces, joints, seams with Penecrit material;
elimination of leaks (pressure groundwater) using Waterplug, Peneplag mixtures;
laying Penerab hydraulic seals in the seams of FBS blocks or treating them with PeneProxy glue or Peneband tape;
surface treatment with Penetron product.

When the components of the mixture react chemically with cement stone, a reverse osmosis reaction occurs. The molecular composition of concrete changes, after which the structural material acquires new properties (water resistance) throughout the entire thickness of the structure.

If you impregnate the lower rows of brickwork with Penetron, after pre-treating the seams with Peneproxy glue, they will completely replace the horizontal waterproofing of the walls. Moreover, over time, materials only gain strength, and do not lose it from contact with water. Therefore, the resource becomes unlimited - a broken piece of concrete will remain completely waterproof until completely destroyed mechanically.

The same manufacturer has products for injection (Penesplitsil based on epoxy, bitumen resins), plastering of defective surfaces (Brace, which gives structural strength to concrete, stone, and brickwork).

Moreover, the company’s specialists have developed the most popular standard solutions:

foundation tape made of FBS blocks - Penecrete in the seams, Penetron over the entire surface of the concrete;
brick wall from the inside - two layers of Penetron on top of mesh-reinforced plaster;
outside masonry – 2 layers of Penetron on cement-sand plaster;
pressure leak – Peneplug + Penecrit (as a plug 2.5 x 2.5 cm);
input of engineering systems - expansion of grooves up to 2.5 cm to a depth of 4 - 6 cm, layer; Peneplag/Waterplag, Penebar gasket, Penetron putty;
floor/wall junctions - 2.5 x 2.5 cm grooves at 45 degrees to the vertical, filled with Penecrit.

Attention! Volumetric waterproofing with penetrating compounds (Penetron is not the only manufacturer of such compounds) reduces repair labor costs by an order of magnitude. Insulating external surfaces from inside the basement is the optimal solution, eliminating the need for excavation work.

Horizontal cut-off waterproofing

In the design of an old cottage, the wall rests on a foundation, which makes it much more difficult to lay roofing felt or hydroglass insulation with your own hands. To waterproof the foundation of a house, you will have to perform a set of repairs:

exposure of the foundation - a trench close to the reinforced concrete structure with a depth to its base;
unloading is usually partial, longitudinal or transverse beams are installed;
dividing the perimeter - every meter the tape is separated by grippers;
removal of wall material - cutting out an angle grinder with a disc on brickwork stone or the crown of a log house with a chainsaw;
screed - M100 solution (preferably with a penetrating additive);
waterproofing - two layers of rolled material, the ends are bent to create an overlap in the adjacent area;
wedging - replacing the lower crown or row of brickwork, filling the cracks with wedges, dry mortar (M100 and above).

The option of horizontal waterproofing with penetrating compounds is also possible, read. But injection horizontal waterproofing is more popular; it is done in a similar way, only holes are drilled in the plane between the base and the masonry, and the mixture is fed into these holes. This creates a layer impregnated with waterproofing.

If the crowns and lower rows of the masonry are intact in an old built dwelling, the building is simply lifted with jacks in compliance with the technical conditions:

vertical movement of the long sides no more than 5 cm at a time;
preliminary tying of log house walls with vertical boards (two self-tapping screws in each crown)

Attention: Work on adjacent grips is carried out after the mortar used in the screed has gained strength.

Thus, in a building in use, waterproofing of the foundation can be done in several ways, depending on the presence of a basement in use, groundwater level. All techniques are suitable for repairing the waterproof insulation layer on concrete house structures intended to work in aggressive environments underground.

Advice! If you need contractors, there is a very convenient service for selecting them. Just send in the form below a detailed description of the work that needs to be performed and you will receive proposals with prices from construction teams and companies by email. You can see reviews about each of them and photographs with examples of work. It's FREE and there's no obligation.

Home > Question - Answer > Waterproofing > What to do if you forgot to install waterproofing between the foundation and the plinth

Question asked: bartkaramba

Please tell me what to do if anti-capillary waterproofing has not been done or roofing material has not been placed between the base and the wall, which is why from autumn to summer the walls get wet and mold appears

Comments

7 years ago

First, you will have to restore the blind area, and make it wide - 900 mm and with a large slope from the house. It wouldn’t be a bad idea to organize water drainage through gutters from the roof, away from the house.

All these walls can be waterproofed according to 1 scheme:

It will be necessary to drill holes in walls just above the base there is 1 row and 100 mm above it the 2nd row is 2/3...3/4 of the wall thickness. The horizontal pitch of the holes is 200 mm, diameter 12 - 18 mm. The holes must be made in a checkerboard pattern. Then insert a tube of the same diameter into the hole and feed a solution of Aquatron-6 or Penetron or a similar mixture (penetrating (penetrating) waterproofing agent) through it. Gradually remove the tube and fill the entire hole. The solution can be supplied by attaching, for example, a plastic bottle to a tube. The solution sets quickly, do not dilute too much at once, practice first. Make the holes with grips so as not to weaken the walls too much.

answer

7 years ago

Svarog (Builderclub expert)

Penetron cannot be used in pores larger than a certain size (0.4mm seems to be indicated on the website); in brick there are larger pores. But for large pores they have additives, for example Penecrit. You just need to mix Penetron and Penecrit in the proportions indicated in the instructions (most likely in the instructions for Penecrit) and then you can use it for bricks and blocks.

You won’t find technology with holes on the manufacturer’s website. This technology was developed and used for waterproofing the walls of several houses, including ancient ones (during restoration). I didn’t tell you all the technology (it’s a trade secret, and not even mine). But what I gave you above should be enough in your case.

It’s just that those builders who did the waterproofing and told me the technology used Aquatron, so I didn’t know that Penetron also needed additives. But they said that any penetrating waterproofing will do. Including Penetron.

answer

6 years ago

bartkaramba

Hello, there are a lot of problems with Penetron, and I decided to do this. First, I insulated the walls with mineral wool and installed siding according to the principle of a ventilation facade. And the base was insulated with extruded polystyrene foam. I did everything as I was advised on your website.

And this is what happened - the walls no longer numb or freeze. The wall does not get wet and does not bloom. The problem area is the corner where the washing machine is located and air does not flow there. And I think there is not enough heat, because the bathroom area is 3*3, height 2.30 m, with one radiator. I think this problem can be solved by adding an additional heated floor. And make sure the heating takes place near the outer wall, since this is the most dangerous area. I think it should help.

I also don’t know how best to prepare the walls for tiles in my case - plaster them or cover them with plasterboard? If there is drywall, then there will be additional air space and the wall will be warmer. But I'm afraid it won't get wet and bloom behind the drywall? Tell me, please.

How long does it take for forced exhaust to work per day?

I will also make a blind area and drainage through gutters as you wrote.

answer

6 years ago

valera (Builderclub expert)

It is better to plaster the walls under the tiles, this way the wall will warm up better and is less likely to get wet.

Forced ventilation (if it is calculated as forced) must work all the time. But everything that concerns ventilation needs to be considered, so without calculation it is impossible to say. And ventilation is calculated for the entire house (not for one room), and the volume of hoods and inflows is decided, and how to provide them. If you need such a calculation for your home, then ask a separate question, we will ask for the data for the calculation and calculate it.

For everything else (blind area, drainage, heated floor installation) - you are doing everything right.

answer

Add a comment

Please tell me how we can correct our mistake. Namely: they forgot to lay waterproofing (roofing felt) between the foundation and silicate blocks. This is a veranda and is not heated. There is dampness in the room.

Indeed, gas silicate (cellular concrete) blocks, due to their porous structure, have the ability to absorb large amounts of moisture, like a sponge.

However, the lack of horizontal waterproofing may not be the only source of dampness. Poor waterproofing of the floor, lack of external plaster, condensation from a metal or asbestos-cement roof onto the wall in the area where the rafters support, and lack of ventilation also provoke an increase in humidity. In addition, in an unheated room during rain and fog, during the period of dew, gas silicate will absorb some amount of atmospheric moisture, regardless of the presence of waterproofing below.

Let us also mention that you can “dry” the foundation by installing underground drainage. This will not solve the problem 100%, but it will divert a significant portion of the water from underground structures. The main thing is to have a place to discharge drainage water.

Now about the “forgotten” waterproofing. Apart from the particularly complex and expensive ones, there are two ways to do it. One is very labor-intensive and inexpensive in materials. The other is not so labor-intensive, but the materials will cost a penny. So:

From a technical point of view, the solution is elementary, but difficult to implement. In the lower part, where the waterproofing is “forgotten,” the wall is dismantled. Not all at once, of course, but in parts. We would recommend removing half a block at a time from one block at a time, since gas silicate is easy to cut. Then the work can be done in four steps. We cut out a fragment of the masonry, glue a waterproofing carpet, but not roofing felt, but a high-quality bitumen-polymer roll material based on fiberglass. You need to leave a margin of a few centimeters at the edges so that you can glue it with adjacent fragments later. We insert the removed half of the block back, carefully caulk the seams and wait 3-4 weeks until the solution gains the necessary strength. Then we repeat, but not in the next row, but through the row. This work can be completed over the summer. Alas, the wall decoration, if any, will have to be restored.

You can disassemble the wall sequentially, as in the illustration, and unroll the roll, but this takes a long time

The injection method (hydrophobization) is based on creating a horizontal belt in the wall material, impregnated with a preparation that gives the walls waterproof properties. The voids (if any) are filled with special cement waterproofing repair compounds. Inclined blind holes are drilled into the wall approximately 90% of the depth, into which special liquids are poured; their composition may include organosilicon compounds, metal salts, and polymer components.

This is approximately how the holes will be located

The drug is gradually absorbed into the masonry or concrete, it is pumped into the wells under pressure, or injectors are placed in the well for a couple of weeks, the operating principle is similar to droppers. For some types of wall materials, it is recommended to use viscous polymer-cement mixtures rather than liquid compounds. Liquids and mixtures permeate masonry and concrete to a considerable depth and form waterproof crystalline structures inside them, which only improve their waterproofing properties over time and under the influence of moisture.

The principle of creating a hydrophobic belt

There are many manufacturers of such materials, and each of them has developed quite extensive and detailed technological maps for carrying out work of this kind. For each case and type of wall materials, different technical solutions and types of repair composition can be used; the number of combinations is quite large. Injection waterproofing should be purchased from a specialized company that is a dealer of the manufacturer. In this case, the manager will have the necessary knowledge and will be able to competently select the necessary measures and water repellents for you. You should first record the condition of your wall and foundation: materials, thickness, presence of voids, seams. It is advisable to take photographs.

This is the type of injector (packer) you will have to rent if you are using a thick cement mixture. For a liquid composition, you can use a regular medical dropper, however, the work time will increase

Your consultant will tell you how and where to drill holes and install a packer (dropper). If the solution on which the blocks lie is quite thick and dense, it may be possible to process it, then a little preparation will be needed

Since gas silicate is a material with open and rather large pores, it is not a fact that it will be able to be properly impregnated. Perhaps it would be better to make a cut-off not in the lower part of the wall, but in the upper zone of the foundation. Along with the material, you will receive instructions on how to carry out the work: at what distance to drill wells, how much composition to pump, etc. Please note that the instructions must be followed in the strictest possible manner, without trying to save money. Otherwise, your efforts may be in vain. If everything is done as needed, a reliable and very durable waterproofing barrier will be created.

It is more convenient to inject a thick wall from both sides

The main disadvantage of the method is the high price of special drugs.

	Waterproofing. Materials and technologies
The builders need to get their hands off. Your situation is critical but not fatal. Today there are ways to correct this and restore horizontal waterproofing, naturally it will cost you a pretty penny. The most effective of them is injecting the brickwork of a house with special solutions. At the same time, complex physical and chemical processes (hydrophobization) take place in the thickness of the wall, resulting in the formation of a powerful waterproofing, waterproof layer. To eliminate capillary suction between the concrete foundation and the wall, Penetron and Penecrit materials are used. Based on the possibility, holes are drilled from the inside or outside of the foundation, in a checkerboard pattern, with a diameter of 25-30 mm and a depth of 2/3 of the foundation thickness. The distance between the holes horizontally and vertically is 250-300mm, at an angle to the horizontal of 45 degrees. Rinse all drilled holes with water to saturate the concrete with moisture. Pour the prepared Penetron solution into the holes, compacting it, and plug the holes with Penecrit material. After 48 hours, you can restore the crumbled plaster. The Penetron material is included in the Guinness Book of Records as the first waterproofing material, penetrated the concrete to a depth of one meter. So your home can be saved from further destruction.