All about car tuning

Pro street best flu cars. Correct car setup in Need For Speed ​​ProStreet. Damage and markers

MECHANICAL TUNING

Complete Guide

1. Introduction.

Need for Speed ​​ProStreet- EA's first attempt to move away from the main line of the series genre towards legal competitions in racing disciplines. The game received a lot of reviews, both positive and negative. However, this game still has a sufficient number of fans who like races of this kind - legalized competitions for street racing fans. But not everyone is able to understand and master the tuning system that was implemented in the game; Sometimes the names of settings and tips not only make it difficult to understand the principle of operation, but are also misleading. To remedy the situation, I tried to piece together available material and reveal the veil of secrecy in the intricacies of setting car parameters.

2. General provisions.

In Need for Speed ​​ProStreet, mechanical tuning is divided into 4 groups:

- suspension tuning - the most extensive and difficult to digest group of settings, which, nevertheless, has the maximum effect when adjusting driving characteristics;

- engine tuning - an equally important group responsible for traction characteristics. The settings in this group have a greater effect on the acceleration of the car;

- transmission tuning - another group of settings that affect acceleration and speed;

- brake tuning - a group of settings that optimize the operation of the car’s braking system. It may seem that these are the least important settings, but the speed and quality of passing certain sections of the track directly depend on correctly configured brakes, which affects the final result of the race.


In the next part of the guide, all settings will be described in as much detail as possible.

3. Detailed description settings.

3.1. Suspension.

As already noted, correct suspension settings are the key to successfully reaching the finish line. Why this is so - you will understand when you read to the end of this part. It is worth noting that the developers also included in this group adjustment of handling (steering sensitivity) and tire pressure adjustment. All settings of this group can be divided into several subgroups, namely:
- adjustment of springs and shock absorbers;
- ground clearance adjustment;
- adjusting the rigidity of the transverse beams;
- tire pressure adjustment;
- wheel alignment adjustment;
- adjustment of steering sensitivity.
Let's move on to a direct examination and description of the settings of each subgroup.

SPRINGS AND SHOCK ABSORBERS.

Compression level of front and rear shock absorbers determines the speed at which the shock absorbers will react (compress) to interaction with uneven road surfaces. Softening the compression level (setting the engine to the left) will smooth out the effect of road irregularities, but will worsen the car’s handling, and vice versa.

Rebound level of front and rear shock absorbers determines the speed at which the shock absorbers return to their original state. To obtain optimal results, the developers recommend setting the rebound levels to be the same as the compression levels.

Level of stiffness of front and rear springs. Two factors depend on the settings of these parameters - the reaction of the car body to unevenness and the car’s steering. Stiffer springs will increase cornering, but will also increase sensitivity to bumps in the road. Softening the springs will have the opposite effect.

In order to fully understand the mechanisms of action of shock absorbers and springs, as well as the main difference between them, let’s draw analogies. Imagine an ordinary, simplest... cart. In fact, it is a car consisting of a body, a wheel frame and no suspension. The wheel frame is rigidly tied to the body, which is why any unevenness in the road surface is reflected on the body through the wheels. To reduce the impact of potholes on the road, we separate the frame from the body and place springs between them. The difference will be felt immediately: the reaction to bumps will become softer, the body will shake much less, it will feel as if you are in a boat. However, according to the laws of physics, any division of an entire object into its component parts also separates the physical forces that take place in each of the new parts. Let us again imagine a cart without springs entering a turn: since it is a single whole, it will have fairly good steering. But as soon as you separate the body from the frame, it begins to “live its own life”: when entering a turn, the frame follows the desired course, but the body, by inertia, tries to move straight! However, the springs fulfill their connecting role and carry the body behind the frame. It can be assumed that the stiffer the springs are, the better the cart’s steering will be (the force that, by inertia, imparts forward movement to the cart’s body will decrease), but at the same time the body’s sensitivity to bumps and potholes will increase. By softening the springs, we will get the opposite effect, that is, we will reduce the steering of the cart, and at the same time the sensitivity to irregularities will decrease. Now let's look at the effect of spring stiffness on the front and rear of the car (cart). Considering the above, it can be argued that softening the front springs will reduce steering and increase the likelihood of the front end of the car drifting on rear-wheel drive vehicles. Increasing the stiffness of the front springs will lead to improved handling, and the effect will be more pronounced in front-wheel drive cars. Softening the rear springs will increase the skid of the rear of the car (which is more favorable for drifting), especially during hard braking. Increasing the stiffness of the rear springs will increase handling (skid control) in rear-wheel drive cars.
Let's return to our cart. By installing springs, we reduced the impact of road unevenness on the body, but after a certain period of time we realize that comfort has not increased to the extent we would like. Sudden changes in the vertical direction (large potholes or rocks) will still be felt by the body. To avoid the influence of unevenness in such situations, so-called shock absorbers are installed - shock absorbers. Their direct task is to reduce the influence of vertical disturbances that occur when driving on the road surface. Despite the seemingly simple function, everything here is also not so simple. The figure shows a combined system combining a spring (red) and a shock absorber (blue). The principle of operation of a shock absorber is similar to a pump: a piston moves inside a cylinder filled with gas or liquid. The occurrence of unevenness under the wheel causes the piston to move upward, which smooths out sharp impacts; then the resistance forces in the cylinder push the piston back, thereby returning the wheel position to its original state. Let's consider the effect of shock absorber stiffness on handling, as well as processes during compression and rebound. Setting a soft (slow) compression will reduce the impact of potholes on the car body, but at the same time it will increase the wheel travel in the vertical direction, which will negatively affect control, since the wheel will continue to move upward by inertia after overcoming an obstacle, until it loses contact with the road surface. Setting a hard (fast) compression will eliminate the sinkage effect and increase traction, but at the same time increase the impact of bumps on the car body due to insufficient piston stroke inside the shock absorber. A hard (fast) rebound will allow the wheel to quickly recover to its original position, which will accordingly restore traction faster, while a soft (slow) rebound will contribute to the slow return of the wheel to its place, which will also negatively affect handling due to loss of traction. Expensive. According to the developers' recommendations, the compression and rebound levels should be the same. Whether it is worth following these recommendations is your choice, but practice shows that sometimes divergent settings lead to much best results. And a few more words about setting up the front and rear shock absorbers. As with springs, the effect varies depending on what kind of drivetrain your car has. In the case of rear-wheel drive, it is desirable to have stiff rear shock absorbers to ensure maximum traction on the surface; the situation is similar for front-wheel drive cars. I hope now the difference between springs and shock absorbers is clear to everyone: springs provide mitigation of the impact of uneven road surfaces, separate the body from the chassis and act in all directions; shock absorbers smooth out elevation changes on the road and operate only in the vertical direction.

CLEARANCE.

Ground clearance determines the distance between the lowest point of the car body (bottom) and the road surface. Despite the apparent simplicity of setting, there are complex physical processes behind this parameter. General principles: high ground clearance will increase the likelihood of the car turning over in turns and worsen braking; too low ground clearance will increase the likelihood of the bottom touching the road surface, which will lead to problems in handling on uneven surfaces, but on smooth roads the stability of the car will increase noticeably. Setting the ground clearance is usually closely related to the stiffness of the shock absorbers: stiffer damping systems can significantly reduce the ground clearance, and vice versa, increasing the ground clearance will allow the installation of softer shock absorbers.

CROSS BEAM.

One of the most mysterious settings. Let's try to figure it out: cross beams help prevent radial drift of the car when cornering. When the car begins to turn, for example to the left, the body of the car continues its inertial movement forward, thereby resisting the movement to the left and dragging the car to the right. To compensate for this effect, transverse beams were added to the car's design, rigidly connecting the left and right sides of the suspension. When the right side of the suspension begins to compress during a turn, it tries, through the cross member, to cause the opposite effect on the other side of the suspension, that is, to lift it. But this is physically impossible due to the rigid fixation of the other end of the beam. The torsional resistance that occurs in the beam when it is twisted prevents further subsidence right side and returns it to its original position.

Based on what has been described, it can be assumed that increasing the rigidity of the transverse beam will improve the car’s steering, while the effect of front end drift will be less pronounced. However, the excessive rigidity of the beam predisposes the car to skidding at the rear, which makes the car uncontrollable in sharp turns.

TIRE PRESSURE.

Tire pressure has a direct bearing on the area of ​​contact between the tire and the road surface and therefore affects the car's steering ability. According to the formula,

Area = Mass / Pressure

that is, there is an inverse relationship between the contact area and pressure. It is clear that the higher the tire pressure, the smaller the contact area with the road and, conversely, as the tire pressure decreases, the contact area increases. How does this affect steering? Everything is also simple: the smaller the contact area with the road, the easier it is to make the wheels slide along it. By increasing the pressure in the front tires, we increase the likelihood of front end drift; By increasing the pressure in the rear tires, we will increase the likelihood of the rear of the car skidding.

A LITTLE REAL MAGIC.

This science (adjusting the position of wheels, or adjusting wheel alignment) is mastered perfectly only by a select few who deal with these things every day in production or tire repair. Let's try to expose this magic and shed light on the most hidden places of auto tuning.

So, get acquainted: TOE (toe-in), CAMBER (camber) and CASTER (caster).
First, let's define the terminology. Toe is the angle between the plane of rotation of the wheel and the normal direction of movement. Camber is the angle between the vertical and the plane of rotation of the wheel. Custer- this is the angle between the vertical and the axis of rotation of the wheel. Next, we will consider each parameter in more detail.
Convergence determines driving stability and turning ability when cornering. Positive toe-in increases stability when straight motion, but worsens steering ability; Negative toe-out has the exact opposite effect - it noticeably improves cornering control, but the increased sensitivity worsens straight-line stability. It is clear that positive toe-in is best chosen for high-speed, fast races with smooth turns, while negative toe-in is better suited for short racing tracks, replete with turns of varying degrees of difficulty. And yet, it is advisable for front-wheel drive cars to have a slight negative toe-in, for rear-wheel drive cars - a slight positive one, and for all-wheel drive cars - neutral. These preferences are determined solely by the physics of processes during movement and can complement the settings described just above.

Camber determines the quality of tire grip on the road. Mostly in all cases, the camber should be neutral, this will ensure the maximum area of ​​contact of the wheel with the surface of the coating and increase stability in control. It is possible to install a slight negative camber, this will slightly improve cornering. It is believed that positive camber is unacceptable, since it significantly worsens the car's handling. But there is a great secret hidden here: if you approach the issue without unnecessary zeal and with special care, you can increase acceleration and speed, thereby achieving better results on the route. But I will not recommend this, since this is a case where stability and control are much more important.
Custer determines control sensitivity. It's that simple. Almost always positive caster is installed (as in motorcycles), which improves straight-line stability at high speeds. However, on short, winding routes, it is permissible to install a small negative caster: this will allow you to corner at a slightly higher speed.

STEERING SENSITIVITY.

There is nothing military in this adjustment: setting the slider to the right will make the response to turning the steering wheel more responsive, moving the slider to the left position will reduce the sensitivity of the car to turning the steering wheel.
What is worth knowing when choosing the required engine position: approaching the extreme positions can lead to inadequate results, such as skidding of the rear and demolition of the front. What it is is shown in the pictures below.

Oversteer- a consequence of setting high (stiff) control sensitivity.

Understeer- a consequence of setting low (loose) control sensitivity.

Wheel position at controlled skidding (countersteer). A technique most often used in rally racing and drifting.

3.2. Engine.

All settings described below affect vehicle acceleration and driving speed. The main quantities used in settings of this kind are torque (torque) and power, expressed in horsepower (horsepower). In this case, the following relationship takes place: increasing the settings in favor of acceleration (increasing torque) will cause a decrease in maximum speed (decreasing power), and vice versa. What to give preference depends on the type of race and type of track.

As with the suspension, engine settings can be divided into three subgroups:
- valve timing adjustment;
- turbocharging adjustment;
- nitro adjustment.
Let us shed light on these sacraments.

VALVE DISTRIBUTION PHASES.

Valve timing control is a major part of the engine's power and torque balance. To fully understand the processes taking place, you need to read a dozen and a half good articles describing the operation of the engine internal combustion. I'll try to do this in a couple of pages. Below is a diagram of a typical four-stroke internal combustion engine. Its operating cycle consists of four cycles, successively replacing each other in two axis revolutions:
1st stroke - inlet of the fuel-air mixture into the working area;
Stroke 2 - compression of the mixture caused by the upward stroke of the piston;
3rd stroke - expansion, or power stroke, caused by the explosion of the compressed fuel mixture, while the piston moves downward;
Stroke 4 - release of exhaust gases.
Then everything repeats itself.

Designations:
intake cam- intake camshaft, exhaust cam- exhaust camshaft, spark plug- spark plug, intake valve- inlet valve, exhaust valve- Exhaust valve, piston- piston, connecting rod- connecting rod, crank- crankshaft, flywheel- flywheel, clutch- clutch, gearbox- reducer (gearbox).

From the above diagram and brief description The work shows that the distribution phase is the period of time between the intake and exhaust of the fuel-air mixture. To change this time, various technical solutions are used: from changing the initial position of the camshaft to using automatic distribution phase adjustment systems. I will give an example of one of the simple solutions - replacing the camshaft. The figure shows an example of a camshaft with an increased phase (left) and a conventional camshaft (right). Due to the steeper eccentric bevels, the intake valve opens earlier and remains open longer compared to the standard shaft option. This causes a larger volume of combustible mixture to enter the cylinder, which in turn provides a micro-explosion of greater power and, as a result, an increase in rotation speed.
Let's move on directly to the adjustment. Setting the engine in the advance direction will shift the boundary between torque and power (see formula above) towards higher speeds. This will lead to an increase in overall power, and therefore the speed of the car. On the contrary, setting the engine to the left, towards retard, will shift this limit towards low speeds and improve acceleration.

TURBOCHARGING.

Increasing (boost) the injection of air into the intake manifold (intake manifold), in which fuel is mixed with air, affects the resulting mixture: the more air there is in this mixture, the more power can be obtained from the engine combustion chamber. Start boost affects low engine speeds, thereby improving acceleration. End boost affects high revs and helps to reach top speed as quickly as possible. Setting the controls to the right increases the effect, to the left - decreases it. A few words about the difference between a turbocharger (turbo) and a supercharger (super-charger). Despite the equivalent tasks performed by both systems, the differences in operating principles are quite strong.

Turbocharger(left) operates on exhaust gases, which, entering the turbine compartment (through the brown pipe) from the engine, rotate it and at the same time the compressor wheel. The compressor sucks air from the atmosphere, compresses it and sends it under pressure into the intake manifold. Supercharger(right) is activated by direct connection with the engine via a belt drive: one of the compressor rotors driven activates the second rotor; as it unwinds, this system sucks in air and also directs it into the intake manifold. Both systems have their drawbacks: a turbocharger - a loss of power at low speeds due to a lack of exhaust gases, a supercharger - a rigid connection with the engine, which causes a loss of power. However, nowadays, thanks to progress, both problems have virtually no effect.

NITRO.

We have all seen cylinders with the inscription NOS and we know what is in these cylinders - nitrous oxide, also known as laughing gas. This gas is used to produce a richer fuel-air mixture. As a result, such a mixture contributes to a very active increase in engine power. Without going into the intricacies of nitrogen supply systems and the processes that occur, let’s move on directly to the description of the settings.
Delivery pressure determines the force with which nitrogen oxide is added to the air-fuel mixture. Increasing the pressure increases acceleration, but may cause the cylinders to empty quickly; low pressure may not be enough to complete the desired maneuver (overtaking or accelerating).
The exhaust rate determines the amount of nitrogen oxide that will be introduced into the fuel intake system. Increasing this parameter also increases acceleration, but may lead to loss of control or cause problems with gear shifting; Reducing the feed rate will prolong the effect of the nitro, but will also reduce the power of this effect.
Combining these two settings gives the maximum effect for different types of racing: in drifting, it is advisable to reduce both settings to obtain a smooth and long-lasting drift; in high-speed races, a slight increase in pressure and speed will allow you to effectively bypass your opponents; in drag, maximizing the two parameters in combination with optimal gearbox tuning will achieve the best results.

3.3. Transmission.

The transmission is a chain for transmitting rotational energy from the engine to the drive wheelset. It starts with the clutch disc, which connects the engine crankshaft and the transmission drive shaft, and ends with the differential, which connects the driven shaft (in the case of front-wheel drive) or the driveshaft (in the case of rear-wheel drive) to the wheel axle. The task of the transmission is to optimize the engine speed so that the car can start and move in any situation.
First, a little introduction.
All interactions in the transmission are carried out using gear connections. Let's imagine two gears, one with 20 teeth, the other with 10. The initial rotation is imparted to the large wheel, and it causes the small wheel to rotate. In this case, the larger wheel will be the driving one, and the small one will be the driven one. For one revolution of the large wheel, the small one will make two revolutions, that is, it will rotate faster. The ratio of the number of teeth between the driving and driven wheels is called the gear ratio and in in this case will be 20:10 or 2:1. As a result, we will get an upshift.
In the opposite situation, when the initial rotation is imparted to the small wheel, and it drives the large one, during one revolution of the drive wheel the driven wheel will only turn halfway, that is, it will rotate more slowly. The gear ratio will be 10:20 or 1:2 and we will get a downshift. Thus, by connecting different wheels, different transmission ratios can be obtained. This is exactly what is implemented in the gearbox.

Designations:
clutch - clutch disk, layshaft - intermediate shaft (in two-shaft systems - driving), output shaft - driven shaft, selector fork - gear selector fork, dog gear - gear clutch, 1st...5th gear - gears.

The gears on the drive (intermediate) shaft are rigidly fixed and rotate constantly (except for gear shift moments when the clutch is disengaged). The gears on the driven shaft are in mesh with the drive ones, but are in contact with the shaft itself through bearings. Thus, rotation of the drive shaft and driven gears does not cause rotation of the driven shaft. This task is performed by gearshift clutches, which can be moved along the shaft using the gearshift forks. The forks themselves are directly connected to the gear shifter. Moving the switch handle causes the corresponding clutch to move along the driven shaft and initiates the engagement of the latter with the driven gear of the transmission. As a result, the driven shaft begins to rotate at a speed proportional to the gear ratio. This is the basic principle of operation of a standard gearbox.

However, the converted rotational speed is still too much for the wheelset. To convert the resulting number of revolutions into an acceptable one (for adhesion of the wheels to the road surface), a differential is used. Its main task is to coordinate (differentiate) the rotation of the wheels of the drive wheel pair during cornering: thanks to the gear decoupling of the axle, the wheels can rotate independently of each other. But we will only consider its operation as the final downshift gear.

Designations:
input pinion gear - drive gear, ring gear - differential rotor, cage - differential box, left/right drive pinion - left/right axle shaft gear, captive pinions - satellites.

Rotational motion from the transmission driven shaft (or from the driveshaft in the case of rear-wheel drive) is transmitted through the input pinion gear to the differential rotor (ring gear). This sets the wheels of the car in motion, but due to the fact that the number of teeth on the rotor exceeds that on the drive gear, a reduction in gear occurs, and, consequently, a decrease in the speed of rotation of the wheels. Despite the fact that the gear is a reduction gear, the coefficient is written as the inverse value, that is, with 9 teeth on the drive gear and 41 on the driven gear, we get a gear ratio of 41:9 or 4.55:1. Let's move on to the settings of this group, which are divided into two subgroups:
- gearbox adjustment;
- differential adjustment.

TRANSMISSION.

Gearbox tuning comes down to choosing the ratios between gears. Setting the governors to the left (short) will allow you to quickly reach the high rpm needed to change into the next gear. Setting it to the right (tall) position will increase this time, allowing for higher speed. Frankly, this could have been written about right away, but I wanted to explain the principle of operation of the entire system to help you avoid mistakes when choosing gear ratios. In conclusion, I note that the first gear is needed only to move the car, the rest are used for acceleration.

DIFFERENTIAL.

The situation is the same as with a gearbox: reducing the final gear ratio will allow you to accelerate faster, but can lead to slipping at the start, especially with a powerful engine installed. Increasing this parameter (tall) will lead to smooth acceleration and an increase in maximum speed.

3.4. Brakes.

Brakes are needed to stop (or slow down) a car. Unlike the previous sections, I will not provide any art or explanations - everything is clear here.

BALANCED BRAKE OPERATION.

It is believed that in the neutral position of the regulator, all brakes are applied simultaneously. In theory, this should provide a smooth braking distance. Shifting the adjuster towards the front brakes will ensure that they engage earlier than the rear brakes. As a result, we will get a skid at the rear of the car and a possible improvement in steering. The result of shifting the adjuster towards the rear brakes will be front end drift and greater stability when braking at high speeds.

BRAKING FORCE.

In this case, we mean the pressure with which the brake pads (calipers) are pressed against the brake drum or disc. Theoretically, the higher this pressure, the faster the car should stop (or slow down). In practice, this is only part of the process, but I will not focus on this. I will only note the fact that in order to cope with the increased braking force, it is necessary to “change” the wheels to higher quality tires, otherwise the effect will not achieve the desired result. Important note: it is worth remembering that improving the braking system will allow you to perform more extreme maneuvers - braking at high speed a little later than your rivals. This is what I meant when I mentioned improving race scores. An equally important note regarding the handbrake: the handbrake only works on the rear wheels. Its use is advisable when drifting and on short winding distances, as it provides a fairly controlled drift. Increasing the handbrake pressure will provide a sharper operation. This is recommended for general racing, but not recommended for drifting. Excessively increasing the handbrake pressure can lead to locking of the rear brakes and, as a result, to leaving the road.

4. Conclusion.

Many people will ask: why is all this? After all, the game is a failure, a lot of graphic glitches, etc. and so on. My answer is: the game itself is excellent. The graphical implementation is lame - yes, but the car control system implemented in the game makes you think about the great work done by the developers. I'm not trying to convince anyone to change their attitude towards the game - this can only be done through your own efforts. I only filled in a significant gap left by the developers - the lack of high-quality Russian-language documentation and a laconic description of mechanical tuning. Whether I succeeded or not is up to you to decide. In any case, thank you for taking the time to read the material presented.

Say hello to the eleventh game in the Need for Speed ​​series. It just so happens that the odd number of games in this series turn out to be masterpieces - just remember Porsche Unleashed or Most Wanted. These games are deservedly recognized as the best in the series. Their even brothers were lucky

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Guides

Say hello to the eleventh game in the Need for Speed ​​series. It just so happens that the odd number of games in this series turn out to be masterpieces - just remember Porsche Unleashed or Most Wanted. These games are deservedly recognized as the best in the series. Their even-numbered brothers were much less fortunate - for some reason they always cause a lot of controversy and disagreement. Carbon, Underground 2 is a great example of games where good idea received the wrong development. Need for Speed ​​Pro Street, to be honest, does not live up to Most Wanted, but its very appearance is very important. You just need to figure out what are the shortcomings and what are the prerequisites for the ideal Need for Speed.

World of professionals

With the help of EA, the action of the game moved from the streets to the racetracks. You can immediately forget about the huge city from Most Wanted, and at the same time about the traffic and the police. We won’t be allowed to smear another black-and-white tear on a monstrous truck with logs or a concrete mixer. ProStreet is a world of legal racing, fair competition and sportsmanship. It’s not very clear what the word “Street” does in the title, because there are no streets at all, only polygons and tracks. This step looks strange, to say the least. All games in the series had streets and roads general use and the chance to crash your iron horse into an oncoming truck or bus. What does the new game offer in return?

Many years ago

Almost eight years ago it came out, perhaps Best game series - Porsche Unleashed. Many, however, did not appreciate the efforts of the developers, believing that due to the bias towards realism, the entire gameplay was lost. All those who like to hit the wall at a speed of 200-300 km/h were badly burned, because in the fourth and fifth parts the player was punished financially for damage. Eight years later, the damage model was returned to us - although it was greatly simplified compared to the same Porsche. The car crashes, repairs cost money, but do not empty the player's pocket. The mechanism is surprisingly simple: let's say you accidentally hit a concrete block at a speed of four hundred kilometers per hour. After a couple of pirouettes, you find out that the cost of repairing a car is equal to your earnings for a couple of dozen (!) races, but instead of money, local car mechanics accept certain markers - prize badges, which can be used to either repair minor damage or repair a broken one to smithereens and according to all the canons a car that cannot be restored. Markers are issued regularly, and they can be bought for a reasonable price. The choice is yours. If you are a supporter of realism, pay for repairs exclusively in money, and if the spirit of Most Wanted is closer to you, markers are for you. Fortunately, the damaged car is not too different from the whole one - except in appearance.

Step into the abyss

Evoking Underground 2 and U.R.L. racing. - circular, for four, or even six circles, you immediately remember the irresistible melancholy. Too long "survival" tracks do not really correspond to the spirit of the game, and ProStreet has finally removed them - the circular races are surprisingly dynamic. All types of competitions are structured in such a way that the player does not linger. Drift tracks have shrunk incredibly. Drag no longer sets the goal of dodging an oncoming or passing car, but, on the contrary, forces the player to concentrate on clearly changing gears and maximum acceleration. The new type of competition, called "Speed ​​Race", embodies the spirit of the series. All the tracks here are as smooth and even as possible, there are no sharp turns, so it is recommended not to lower the mark on the speedometer below 300-350 km/h. Tighten the suspension, pump up the tires to the limit, and go for pure speed.

About the sad

How long can you patch up the worn-out engine of the very first Underground? Initially, of course, it caused a storm of emotions. Owners of video cards with Shader Model 2.0 were especially happy. The game, of course, slowed down, but such effects have never been seen anywhere else. The crowning achievement was Most Wanted. The mind-blowing sun reflecting off the wet asphalt, the roofs of houses and the sides of a car - the picture in Most Wanted was magnificent. In Carbon, the game's exclusively night-driving nature has lost much of its charm. ProStreet simply does not have this charm. Add to this the poor technical performance. For example, I didn’t notice much difference between 2x and 8x antialiasing, but FPS dropped by about 20%. The shader beauties of previous versions are also not visible - but how I wanted to admire the play of light on the chrome sides of my Lamborghini!

The plot, oddly enough, also falls into the chapter “About the Sad” - it simply does not exist. If in the first games of the series this was forgiven, since the main goal - speed - was clear, then in ProStreet the battle for the racer's crown looks unnatural. For what? Who is this strange man in a helmet? In Most Wanted, the player was simply not shown. The camera "from the eyes" perfectly hid the character, everyone imagined themselves in the driver's seat, and everyone was happy. This technique has been used for a long time, and, to put it mildly, it is strange to see a mysterious figure without a face.

A few words about the main thing

Whatever one may say, ProStreet is a real, purebred Need for Speed, you just need to see its merits behind the unnecessary outer husk. Many were waiting for a repeat of Most Wanted, but instead EA conducted another experiment. The experiment is undoubtedly beautifully and tastefully designed, stuffed with cars and spare parts, but poorly in keeping with the spirit of the series. Perhaps this is a step towards a new Need for Speed, in which the developers will collect all the best from the entire series, and chop off the unnecessary and boring with a big ax. The main thing is that this step does not become a starting point into the abyss of oblivion.

ADVANTAGES FLAWS
Fun
9 		diversity, no matter how strange it may sound in relation to racing the lack of street tracks did not benefit the game
Graphic arts
8 		perfectly licked car models an engine is not a wine, it doesn’t get better with time
Sound
10 		best musical score in the history of the series not noticed
Game world
7 		bright and memorable playing style no plot
Convenience
10 		very convenient difficulty settings No

Control and damage

Road

ProStreet is very different from previous parts of the series. The changes in the behavior of cars are especially noticeable. In my opinion, the differences in the drive are now better felt, and the cars themselves differ not only in the “agility” parameter. Each car has its own stability and stability on the road. Try the BMW M3 E46 and the Dodge Viper for yourself after that. Both have rear-wheel drive, but the difference is felt instantly. Truly, German rear-wheel drive is indistinguishable from front-wheel drive.

All cars in the game are equipped with ABS, SM and TC systems, which can be disabled at any time in the game menu (Options, Gameplay, Mode options). The anti-lock braking system (ABS) prevents the wheels from locking, so when braking the car does not go where it shouldn’t and can be controlled. Considering that most players do not have pedals to adjust the braking force, ABS should be left, since pressing the brakes on the keyboard will lock the wheels. Electronic Stability Control (SM) helps the car when cornering. This system adjusts the suspension on the fly and also prevents rollovers. Useful, but not critical, you can turn it off for greater sensations. The stability control system helps the car grip the road tenaciously, preventing skidding and wheel spin. The computer can intervene at any time to maintain engine stability. In the game, it is better to turn off the stability control, because the computer inside the cars has a very strange concept of “danger of slipping”. You'll just lose speed where you don't need it.

This is interesting: A hybrid of stability and stability systems was created by BMW, and it is called ASC+T (Automatic Stability Control + Traction). This system is designed to improve traction on icy or wet roads.

The time dilation mode has sunk into oblivion - that’s where it belongs. To be honest, it wasn’t really suitable for a computer. The fact is that the keyboard buttons have only two positions - pressed (on), not pressed (off). There are no traces of half-presses, so the wheels of our virtual machine turn immediately to the extreme position, which leads to a colossal loss of speed. And the need for it has disappeared - why slow down time on the race track?

Opponents

The old schemes of fighting opponents no longer work. Not only will you crash your car, but you will also lose speed. In ProStreet you need to stay ahead of your opponents, just like in circuit racing, by playing on the difference in speed and taking turns as close to the inside as possible. Don’t forget the “air tunnel” that is created behind the car. Get on the tail of the nearest enemy and, picking up speed, overtake. This effect is achieved due to the fact that the car in front cuts the air masses, taking on the air resistance.

In speed races you can push yourself, leaving the track is almost equal to losing. It is especially useful to push next to trees, bump stops and telegraph poles, since a crashed car is eliminated from the race without the right to “reset”.

This is interesting: You can slam into the wall and drive on, although in real life such a blow would destroy the engine cooling system and the engine would jam in a couple of minutes. However, in this case, a coup on the roof is the end of the game.

Complexity

Because of new system I decided to attribute the complexity of the game to the controls. Previously, this parameter reflected only the behavior of enemy vehicles and the frequency of any unpleasant accidents, such as skidding, hitting the air, and civilian vehicles jumping out of nowhere. In ProStreet, the difficulty was renamed “assist level”, and there are only three of these levels: “beginner” (Casual), “racer” (Racer), “king” (King). Everything is simple for a beginner. You can forget about the brakes, since the car herself reduces speed in corners, and does this extremely delicately, without resorting to the brake pedal. The revs drop, the speed drops, and you calmly go through the turn. You won't even notice this assistance if you release the gas before the maneuver. Computer opponents are more like lost tourists - they do not resist and calmly let you go ahead.

The "racer" level is a little more difficult. The car is more obedient, although it still shamelessly reduces speed in corners.

This is interesting: I wondered for a long time how the BMW M3 could drop speed from 250 to 100 in less than a second, but I chalked it up to the wonderful German pads. But several races on high-speed tracks sobered me up. As soon as the computer slowed down several times without my knowledge, I realized that there are no magic pads.

This phenomenon is very annoying in speed racing, because the computer wants to slow down (but you can’t stop it) at the most unfortunate moment. Turning off the stability control systems helps the situation a little, but the effect is still noticeable.

And finally, the last level is “king”. This is real hard. Don't expect help from your computer guardian; everything depends on you.

Damage and markers

The damage model has been greatly simplified compared to the fourth and fifth parts. There are three levels of brokenness of the iron horse.

  • Light damage. A slight blow to a bump stop, a wall or an enemy. Driving characteristics are reduced slightly.
  • Severe damage. Hitting the corner of a concrete wall at a speed of 250 kilometers per hour. It noticeably reduces the driving performance of the car, which, however, does not prevent it from winning the race.
  • Damage incompatible with life. After the inscription “Totaled” the race ends. That’s it, there’s nothing left to drive, so repairs and a restart are ahead.

You can smash a car into pieces, but until you go beyond the level, you won't notice the difference in dynamics. On the other hand, minor damage does not necessarily affect driving performance. If you just scratched a door or fender, there will be no loss.

So, we figured out how to get damage. Now let's figure out how to restore ward cars. Let's start with the fact that it is necessary to repair the car. Broken cars can only be used in one competition. There are two types of repairs - for money and for markers. There are two types of markers: the first type removes light and serious damage, the second restores the car after complete destruction. These valuable papers are issued after the completion of the “race days”, and they can also be purchased. Buying markers, however, is useless, since if used wisely, they are quite sufficient. Just don't fix your car between runs. Wait until the cost of damage exceeds the earnings from one race, and then use the marker. In addition, you can drive a damaged car “all the way”, and then repair it. At the later stages of the game, everything is even simpler - eliminate damage for money, the cost of which is less than the price of the marker.

There is also a third type of markers - it has nothing to do with repairs. This marker appears randomly and can be exchanged for any car from the store.

Competitions

Race days

It would seem that what else can be invented here is new? This is racing! But no, EA invented or modified it.

Firstly, races are now combined into "Race days". To pass the “race day”, you need to score a certain number of points, a certain amount of money is awarded for winning, and let’s not forget the lottery. Remember the markers in Most Wanted after defeating a blacklist member? There is something similar here, only instead of paying off the police you can win repair markers or spare parts for cars.

But after winning, the competition does not end, there is a “second victory” called “dominance”. More is given for it more money and an additional chance to win something useful in the lottery.

Part of the competition takes place in cars provided by sponsors, and the winner can take one of his choice. On the one hand, it’s convenient that you can hit someone else’s car however you like, and they’ll still fix it for free. On the other hand, you cannot customize the provided machine, so you will have to get used to its behavior on the go.

Races and points

So, to win "race day", you need to score a certain number of points. These points are awarded for winning (or losing) a race, and each event has an additional modifier. For example, in drifting, drift points are added to the total. In addition, an additional bonus is awarded for a “clean” race, but it is insignificant and can be ignored.

This is the advice: Don't fix your car between runs. There is only one touch between light damage and no damage. And between light and heavy there is a whole abyss of blows and grinding. If you have not reached the breakdown level during the race, then at the end you will still be awarded a prize for completing the route “cleanly”.

Races are divided into four types: circle, drift, drag and speed. Each type (except drift) is divided into several subspecies. Let's take a closer look at them.

Circuit races include:

  • Circle (Grip)- a normal race along the ring road. Whoever reached the finish line first won.
  • Circle with division (Grip Class)- eight participants are divided into two groups so that the engine power is in the same range. Cars from another group have nothing to do with the player and simply get in the way on the track.
  • Sector Shootout- the route is divided into four sections. When you start, you start a timer, but instead of time there are points. When you cross the sector line, the current points are added to your account. If you beat your own or someone else's record, points are added again. In addition, the owner of all four sectors gets a one-time bonus of 500 points.
  • Time Attack- a regular circuit race, only the lap time is taken into account. All opponents also go with you, but start a few seconds earlier. If you can outrun them, you are guaranteed to win.

Optimal car: with all-wheel drive. The thing is, front-wheel drive cars aren't very powerful, while rear-wheel drive cars will tend to skid when cornering - unless you have pedals or a joystick to fine-tune the fuel delivery.

Additional modifier: target time. If you complete the course faster than the developers expect, you will receive extra points

Drag includes:

  • Drag classic 1/4 mile (1/4 mile Drag)- a regular 402-meter dredge. The one who bets wins best time check-in In other words, the enemy on the right (or left) is just for show, because you are racing against time.
  • Drag 1/2 mile (1/2 mile Drag)- the extended version of the drag allows you to apply nitro twice, which is what you should use. Otherwise, it is no different from its classic brother.
  • Wheelie competition Wheelie is movement on two wheels. In our case, only the rear wheels are taken into account. The essence of the competition is this. You accelerate, lifting the nose of the car to the sky, and drive in this position as long as you can. Naturally, to compete in this type, you need a rear-wheel drive car, preferably a separate one.

Before each race, be it classic or wheelie, you are asked to warm up your tires. It is necessary to keep the engine speed in the specified zone in order to achieve the optimal temperature, and therefore better traction. In fact, there is no special effect from this - most likely, it is only to maintain the atmosphere.

It is a myth: No one warms up tires like that. From such heating, the rubber simply burns, leaving black spots on the track. Road grip only gets worse as the tire wears out and becomes “bald”.

It is important: Don't forget that the dredge takes into account the engine temperature. If you wait too long to change gears, causing the tachometer needle to dance in the red zone, the engine will seize. However, this is not damage. Overheating is equivalent to a false start.

Optimal car: For drag racing, you should choose a car with the best power/speed combination. Popular American muscle cars, such as the Chevrolet Corvette 67', for example, are only good in movies. Lots of power, little use.

Any rear-wheel drive car will do for a wheelie, although many choose the Dodge Charger R/T. Don't be fooled by screensavers! “Willy” can be done perfectly well on the Zonda, you just need to remove the downforce and improve the grip as much as possible.

Additional modifier: target time. Each race is given a target time, and if you complete the course much faster, you will receive additional points.

Speed ​​racing includes:

  • Speed ​​challenge- a greatly simplified analogue of the sprint, but this did not make it any worse. Even the sharpest turns here are taken at a speed of no less than three hundred kilometers per hour. A pleasant competition, where, however, it is very easy to smash the car beyond recognition.
  • Top speed run competition- an analogue of “Speeding” from Most Wanted. Only the speeds have become higher and the tracks smoother. To complete this type of race, I recommend setting the assistance level to “king”.

Optimal car: with rear or all-wheel drive. There are no sharp turns, so there is no need to be afraid of skidding.

Additional modifier: target time. This is the easiest place to beat your target time; sometimes you can improve your result by even a full minute!

  • Drift deprived of varieties. Essentially, this is the same race as in the first Underground, but now it has become more like reality. It's really difficult to make drifts, there are no multipliers, there are no bonus points at the edge of the track, and so on. But blows and damage only affect the prize for “purity”, and that’s all.

Optimal car: I advise you to choose a front-wheel drive car for drifting. Cars of this type are better controlled during a skid.

Additional modifier: points for skidding. They are added to the total. Drift - The best way break records.

1 2 All



Genre: Race
Developer: EA Black Box
Publisher: Electronic Arts
Localization: Soft Club
Game website http://www.ea.com
Release date: November 13, 2007 in the USA, November 23, 2007 in Europe
Platforms: XBOX 360™, PlayStation3®, PlayStation2™, Wii, Playstation®Portable, Nintendo DS™, PC-CD, Mobile

Game description:
The most expensive cars from all over the world, mind-blowing tuning, xenon light and unreal speeds - illegal racing has always attracted daredevils in the fastest masterpieces of the automotive industry. But over time, culture and fashion change. Fans of fast driving came out into the world and stopped hiding from the police: new competitions are officially held on special tracks in all parts of the planet. The hobby of the “golden youth” turned into independent species sport with its own rules, sponsors and champions.

The new part of the famous racing series Need for Speed ​​changes after the races themselves. There is no longer any need to hide from the authorities and take risks in illegal races. Now the most dangerous enemy is not the police, but cunning and swift rivals. They act aggressively and at any moment are ready to cut off their opponent’s car or push it into a ditch, turning it into a shapeless pile of iron. The era of immortal cars is over! Any four-wheeled horse can be smashed to pieces: literally everything crumples and falls off - the hood, bumpers, spoilers, roof, fenders, windows and even wheels. ProStreet is not just another episode of the series, it is a new level of realism and entertainment, accessible to everyone!

Game Features:
The damage system will teach caution. Be careful of crashing into other cars and hitting concrete blocks, otherwise you risk turning the chrome beauty into a pile of useless junk. Any part can be broken, dented or torn off. After each race you will have to repair the car, choosing between replacing old parts or restoring them - after all, new ones cost a lot of money.
Improved tuning system. The slightest changes in the appearance of the car affect its behavior. Reducing the spoiler angle or bumper height affects aerodynamic performance. A standard car can be turned into a rocket that reaches cosmic speeds, but it will not be easy to cope with it.
Engine fine tuning. The motor received no less attention than the external details. It can be carefully adjusted to achieve the desired effect. From now on, it is the “stuffing” under the hood, and not ostentatious delights, that is the most important part of the car.
Licensed vehicle fleet. You will meet many cars from the most famous concerns. Among them are the BMW M3, Mazda RX-7, Toyota Corolla GTS AE86 and Nissan GT-4 Proto. The game features models from two dozen famous manufacturers.
Advanced graphics. The car models are so similar to their real prototypes that the line between the game and life melts before our eyes. Beautiful clouds, sky, spectacular sunsets and sunrises, spectators near the track and clouds of thick smoke escaping from under the wheels further enhance the feeling of the reality of what is happening.

Question answer

№1 Question: Where can I download music from the game?
Answer: http://www.nfs-zone.net/nfsps-soundtracks

№2 Question: Is there a demo (beta) and where can I download it?
Answer: Eat. Mirror 1 , Mirror 2 , Mirror 3 , Mirror 4.

№3 Question: What cars are there in the game?
Answer: Here full list: http://www.nfs-zone.net/nfsps-carlist

№4 Question: How many types of races are there in the game?
Answer: There are four in total:

- GRIP(Close Сircuit) - Closed circuit race (Or simply popularly - circles)
- Drift- Known since the first Underground! Skids, points - VICTORY! The drift mode will be different from that of NFS Carbon thanks to new physics.
- Drag- Race in a straight line from point A to point B with manual gear shifting (Drag)
- Speed ​​challenge- It will take place mainly on long routes. At high speeds you will be driving on straight, flat roads with almost no turns. But when you try to drive, the game will turn into off-road as it will be very dangerous to drive at such speeds.

№5 Question: Does the game support DX 10?
Answer: NO. DX 9 only

№6 Question: I heard that the game has a Russian language, how to activate it?
Answer: Download archive -> NFS ProStreet Lang Change(Extract to game folder)

№7 Question: Where are game saves stored?
Answer: In folder My Documents. Start -> My Documents -> NFS ProStreet

№8 Question: How to pass "Willy"?! No matter what I do, the car doesn’t rear up!
Answer: You need to buy a Dodge Charger R/T 1969. As a quick option: buy quick tuning kits No. 3 for power and traction - that’s all.
As an alternative: engine, turbine, transmission, suspension, level 3 tires, level 2 nitro.
Make the tuning settings: in the engine, valve timing to a minimum, H2O injection to a maximum, in the transmission, first gear to 3/4, the rest to 1/4, do not touch the main one.
Advice from vk6666:
the best car for the "Wheelie" mode (in the Russian beaver translation "Willy")
This is a Dodge Charger r\t with the maximum engine pack (I have the 4th level of turbine, nitrate, and engine) I think the 3rd level of upgrades will do, but I tried it on level 4, in the “tuning” section “engine”, all parameters are set to " high", and we get a charger about 974 mares...
in gears it is recommended to set the first two short, the third and 4 normal
the last long one (this is even 1/2 mile better), 1/4 mile - do not lengthen the last gears
then the car starts, we try to get into Perfect shift, and give nitro at the beginning of 4th gear, and then we also shift in the green area...
result: the whole track is on its hind legs, that is, according to game measurements, 409 meters (for some reason, not 402) I personally screwed up 409 meters in 3 races in a row...
Advice from Nighthorror
In order to win a wheelie, you don’t need any special expenses - all you need is:
Dodge Charger 1pc.
Engine level 2.
Suspension level 2.
Level 3 checkpoint.
Turbine level 3.
Tires level 3.
Nitro level 1.
Next, pull 5th gear to maximum.
We adjust the suspension - the front axle is hard, the rear axle is soft.

No. 9 Question: How to remove PUNK BUSTER which is installed and launched along with the game, taking away some of the resources (Only for the pirated version) so that the game does not interfere with the Internet?
Answer: Removal (for Windows XP):
1) Go to Control Panel -> Administration -> Services, find PnkBstrA and disable this service in properties
2) Go to the ProStreet folder and delete the PB folder
3) go to Windows/system32 and delete PnkBstrA.exe, PnkBstrB.exe
4) Start -> Run -> regedit -> Edit -> Find -> Punk Buster, there will be 2 partitions, delete them (this step is optional)
5) Restart the computer

№10 Question: is it possible, for example, to designate a drag car as a drift car and vice versa?
Answer: each car can be assigned to any type of race: go to the garage, select the car whose purpose you want to change and press the number 2 (but after the change, all packages installed on the car are reset)

No. 11 Question: Does the game have free life like most wanted, when freedom of movement + role-playing system and you can ride wherever and whenever you want?
Answer: No. You can only ride on the trails.

№12 Question: Is there a Need For Speed™ Pro Street cheat codes and where to enter them?
Answer: Yes, I have. They must be entered in career mode in the column entering the code
mitsubishigofar- Adds Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution to the garage
zerozerozero- Adds a Volkswagen Golf GTi to the garage
worldslongestlasting- Adds a Dodge Viper SRT-10 to the garage
unlockallthings- Adds to the garage: Nissan 240SX, Pontiac GTO, Chevrolet Cobalt SS and Dodge Viper (With tuning). Level 4 parts open in the store (after a reboot they also disappear, but if you put them on a car, they will remain on the car)
For eternal money you need to download a trainer
collectorsed- Unlocks options for the collector's version of the game, namely adding five new exclusive cars:
2001 Acura Integra LS, 2005 Acura NSX, 2006 Lexus IS350, 2006 Audi RS4 and 2006 Pontiac Solstice GXP;
Adds four more racing weekends to the game.
After restarting, the code must be entered again.

№13 Question: How to get rid of freezes during the game.
Answer: On this moment The only thing that helps with this is replacing the processor with a dual-core one. In some rare cases, friezes do not disappear on Core2Duo. People with single-core processors and owners of Core2Duo who have freezes have to wait for a patch that will fix this problem.

№14 Question: My races are not starting or running endless loading weekend, what to do.
Answer: This is caused by editing a registry entry into Russian. The cure is to rewrite it back to English using

№15 Question: Are there any patches or updates for the game?
Answer: Yes, I have:
The patch for Need For Speed ​​Pro Street was finally released today. It fixes many bugs and adds a Lan Mode to the game in which you can play with your friends On-Line.
The patch also adds previously unavailable cars to the game (Bugati Veyron, Honda S2000, Seat LEON, Plymouth Road Runer...) and new tracks (Porshe Proving Ground in Leipzig, Tokyo Highway)
Patch size is 230MB.
List of changes and additions:
Corrections gameplay, eliminating glitches and bugs of the game!
Support LAN mode (Ability to play over Local network)!
The promised Booster Pack (2 new tracks and 16 new cars)!
This patch is intended for the European DVD version of the game!
NFS Pro Street Patch v1.1 (Rest of Europe) 227.3 MB
NFS Pro Street Patch v1.1 (US - English) 228 MB (HKZonda, Reloaded, Vitaly)

№16 Question: After updating the game to version 1.1, codes are not entered
Answer: Need to download This a small utility.
After patching the nfs.exe file (version 1.1), launch the game, enter the following 4 cheat codes in the career:
SAAM-CE
- open Collectors Edition Pack (5 cars)
SAAM-BP1
- open Booster Pack 1 (7 cars)
SAAM-BP2
- open Booster Pack 2 (7 cars)
SAAM-UNL
- replaces the cheat code "unlockallthings"

№17 Question: Where can I download saves for the game?
Answer: NFS ProStreet Save 1.0
NFS ProStreet Save 1.1
NFS ProStreet SaveGame Unlock Cars - SaveGame with 178 cars

No. 18 Question: What should you do if something doesn’t work, or there are crashes at the car showroom on a Bugatti Veyron, or any other car?
Reply from vk6666:
1. install patch 1.1 for YOUR VERSION of the game.
2. We put this magic patch on it: PATCH
yes, it seems like it is “but CD”, but in fact this archive contains 2 files: nfs.exe and a list of cars file, that is, now the cars are displayed correctly, the EXE file no longer produces errors, BUT the codes do not work... and then we install this miracle:
3. MIRACLE in fact, it allows us to use these same codes in the new executable (See above)

№19 Question: What are the “bosses” in Need For Speed™ Pro Street and how to win them
Answer from vk6666:
In the game, as you noticed, there are five “bosses”, that is, “kings” of each type of race, plus one main one for all types of races, and naturally everyone wants to defeat them, I offer some tips that will allow you to defeat these gentlemen as much as possible faster:

1.Drag King (Karol Monroe)
With this gentleman, everything is quite simple - he performs on an open barn, namely on a Ford Mustang GT 2006, which has only 551 hp under the hood, respectively, if your unit has more than 700 horses, you will defeat him without straining, both in half-mile, and in quarter-mile races, but how to win at Wheelie is written above. I’ll make a reservation right away - in this type of race it gains a maximum of 250 meters, and if you followed the advice on passing Wheelie, then 380-409 meters are guaranteed to you, which will give you an absolute victory.

2. Drift King (Aki Kamura)
There are also quite a few tricks here, but if you know how to make a continuous skid along the entire track, then this friend is also not scary for you. car - Mazda RX7 1995, under 500 horses (very clumsy, by the way)
He scores on any route from 2800 to 3400 points, i.e. All you have to do is do at least a little more - and victory is yours.

3. Grip King (Ray Krieger)
the first time you see it, it is created persistent feeling that he either bought the license or was given it by friends... his car is a BMW M3 E92 2008, about 500 horses.
he doesn’t know how to drive at all, moreover, if you frighten him with unpredictable idiocy like nitro before a turn, and next to it, he’ll go crazy himself. and if you don’t touch it, then it often doesn’t go into turns.. Moreover, in the races on the way to it you will come across a much more harmful opponent - Rudy Chen in a Porsche 911 Turbo 2006, which copes much better with turns and straights, and if you defeated him, then the king of the flu is not afraid of you at all. Just don’t forget that the tracks in competition with this king will be winding, and accordingly you need to take something like a Subaru Impreza, Mitsubishi EVO 9 or X, Lancia Delta, or any of the supercars, configured accordingly.
a small note: his car is an obvious bucket of bolts, it is simply stupid to participate in circuit racing with it - the car drives, plus it is clumsy. so sell it as soon as you win...

4. Speed ​​King (Nate Denver)
car - Pontiac GTO 1965, if memory serves - about 700 horses.
this guy drives very well and very fast, he practically doesn’t make mistakes, but just what is practical: at two Speed ​​Challenge races there is his favorite turn with cacti, where he flies every second race, i.e. if he overtook you and came to the finish line first (this turn is at the end of the track) - don’t be shy, restart the race, and he will definitely go into the ditch..
and on Top Speed ​​Run there are only 4 checkpoints - just turn on nitro before each one, and victory is yours (first let the king go forward so as not to get in the way)

5. Showdown King (Ryo Watanabe)
this is the most harmful organism in the game, the car Mitsubishi Lancer Evo IX MR-edition 2006 751 hp.
Drives very well, competes in all types of races:
a). Drag - here there are two competitions with him, Wheelie and a half-mile drag on a rough track with a mountain in the middle, with Wheelie everything is simple, he gains no more than 200 meters, and the rest we see above, this is the easiest type of racing with him.
on a half-mile drag you need to take a very stable car, or all-wheel drive (Lamborghini Murcielago LP640 2006 is good)
or rear-wheel drive, but then turn on the nitro after leaving the hill, in 6th gear. otherwise it will lead, the “king” itself catches the roof 2 out of three times when passing a mountain, but once it still levels out and arrives very late (though I saw once that it was not mistaken after all, and arrived as it should, the result he has 12.9 seconds)
b) Speed ​​is the most dreary type of racing (IMHO) because the track has ditches, and in order to overtake it, you need to drive very quickly and carefully, which doesn’t always work out in supercars.
possible options- in one of the 10 races, he catches the roof at a random place on the track, then we just drive to the end at low speed and win.
second: we are trying to overtake him, but we need a fast and stable car, which can only be achieved through fine tuning.
third: we take any barge and try to dump it into a ditch not far from the start - it usually works after the 5th time, and then at 150 we slowly reach the finish line..
c) Grip - here it is also very strong - only a nimble and VERY fast car will help, with the shortest gears and maximum brake pressure (done in the car settings) muscle cars are not suitable here at all, I personally completed this race in a Ford GT (the most maneuverable from supercars).
All the tracks are a mixture of straight lines and 180 degree turns.
d) Drift - here we look at everything I wrote about Drift King - he scores the same points. Only the port routes are the most inconvenient..

№20 Question: Which cars are better for Drift, Drag, Grip and Speed.
Answer from vk6666:

So, I’ll make a reservation right away - we’ll talk about version 1.1 of the game, and the most difficult game mode “King” with “helpers” disabled, i.e. You can't make it any more difficult.

1. Drift
In this type of racing, basically any car will suit you, but I will still highlight several models:
a) "Japanese" - a funny thing 1986 Toyota Corolla GT-S AE86 - cheap and effective at first
The 1998 Toyota Supra and 1999 Nissan Silvia S15 are also very good, simply easy to drive and responsive cars.
b) “Americans” - here I want to note the 1971 Dodge Challenger and 1970 Plymouth Hemi Cuda - they pump up to 868 and 960 horses, respectively, are very agile, and will pull you out of any turn (in general, like the Supra), plus, due to the greater mass of the car, the specifics of control differs from the “Japanese”, but this is a matter of “taste and color”, for example, you can hold the brake and at the same time accelerate, winding up the glasses for the skid angle and for the smoke... well, I’ll note that I personally scored against the drift king and Ryu Watanabe in two times more points on these two muscle cars. and my personal record is 7900 points for the track - on the Challenger..
and a small addition - there are two excellent barges - 1968 Plymouth Road Runner and 1967 Dodge Charger - this is best used on tracks where the continuous drift radius is very large - then these battleships will move at excellent speed along such turns, and continuous drift, as is known - the longer the better.

2. Drag
in this type of racing, almost all cars can be brought to life, but I think we need to dwell on a few separately:
excellent solutions for a minimum of money, plus excellent stability throughout the entire route, that’s for sure
2006 Pontiac GTO
1967 Dodge Charger
1998 Toyota Supra
and in a separate article, the expensive cheat car 2006 Pagani Zonda F - its results for 402 meters are an average of 6.5 seconds, according to some statements it was 5.9... but this car costs money, and all records were set naturally on a full upgrade of the 4th level

3. Grip
The undoubted leader is the cheap and very playful 1991 Lancia Delta Integrale Evo, which at maximum power produces only 421 hp, but at the same time you can defeat everyone and everything, including Mr. RYU.
further - such machines deserve attention as
2008 Porsche 911 (997) GT2
2006 Subaru Impreza WRX STI

2006 Ford GT
2006 Koenigsegg CCX
The McLaren F1 also stands out, on which (with a full upgrade) you can enter a 90º turn at a speed of 180 km/h... the only minus of the McLaren F1 is its price.

these cars, with the shortest gears (done in the “tuning” section), stiff suspension and maximum brake pressure (all there) are simply ideal in handling and gaining speed, which makes them great in this class of racing. But you also need to make one car for the oval track, which you will come across towards the end of the game - here you take any car that can pump over 800 hp, its gears are pulled to maximum, and the steering is made sluggish - then you will be first on the oval. and what to take is a matter of taste..
but for perverts I can advise
two more models:
1967 Chevrolet Corvette C2 (Sting Ray)
2006 Chevrolet Corvette Z06
You can effectively take turns on them only with the help of a controlled skid, and not be a coward, but enter at fairly high speeds, but you still need to be able to do this, but the acceleration after a turn is simply diabolical (again, do not forget about short gears and the strongest possible brake)

4.Speed
All-wheel drive and fast cars are good here, as well as almost all supercars
I would especially like to note the following models:
2007 Audi RS4
1999 Nissan Skyline R34
2006 Lamborghini Murcielago LP640
2006 Subaru Impreza WRX STI
2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IX MR-edition
2008 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution X
2006 Ford GT
for their excellent stability.

who cares - I passed the king of speed and racing in a 2007 Audi RS4, and it was much easier than in my previous 2008 Porsche 911 (997) GT2..

and finally, a general comment about the two machines:
1. 2006 Bugatti Veyron 16.4 - no matter how cool it looks, no matter how tempting its 407 km/h is, it’s just a show off, it will not be better than the above-mentioned outstanding cars in any of the classes... at the same time, it is not subject to any upgrade, except for its shape body and color. that is, neither tuning, nor improvement of the power unit, nor nitro is available to you...
2. 2008 Nissan GT-R Proto - it can be upgraded, it can be tuned, but visual changes are locked. and even though it can be pumped up to 1400 mares, it is also no better in terms of usability, and in some cases it is noticeably worse than the above cars.


Thank you vk6666 And @_lex for help in creating the FAQ. Suspension- As tests have shown, there are only two settings that affect the acceleration dynamics. These are ground clearance (Ride height) and stiffness of the front and rear springs (Spring rate). If you move the sliders to the left, the car will cling to the asphalt, and this is fraught with a loss of speed. If you move the slider in the opposite direction, acceleration will be worse due to the reduction in downforce. These settings need to be selected separately for each route - that is, find the minimum value at which the car does not touch the road, but also does not “dangle”

A very important point is adjusting the ground clearance, otherwise called “Ground clearance”. Too high values ​​of this parameter lead to deterioration of stability in corners (due to the “Wing” effect, the air flow lifts the car), and too low - to a change in suspension geometry and deterioration in handling (too low landing and high downforce require filigree control, otherwise instead of turn you will fly off the road). But it is worth remembering that for better aerodynamics the car must be streamlined, that is, the rear of the car must be higher than its nose. Since there are quite a lot of parameters in the suspension settings, we will analyze each one separately.

Front\Rear Shock Compression Rate (Soft - Stiff)
Compression ratio of Front\Rear shock absorbers (Soft - Hard)

A softer suspension will absorb road irregularities at the expense of worse handling. We set the hardness to maximum, since we have racing tracks, not city tracks. In addition, the rigid suspension prevents body roll when turning.

Front\Rear Shock Rebound Rate (Soft - Stiff)
Elasticity of Front\Rear Shock Absorbers (Soft - Hard)

The rate at which a shock absorber returns to its original state after compression. We set it to the most rigid position. The shock absorber absorbs part of the vibration energy of the spring and prevents the car from “losing” in different directions. A soft suspension is good off-road, but we need maximum rigidity.

Front\Rear Spring Rate (Soft - Stiff)
Front/Rear spring stiffness (Soft - Hard)

A soft spring is needed for a comfortable ride. She will calmly “Eat” the bump, and the body will not get hit. The softer the suspension, the more invisible the bumps, but the worse the handling and stability. The car will “chatter” in different directions, and behavior on the road will be unpredictable. Therefore, make the suspension as stiff as possible. Yes, this is a risk - the very first bump can lead to an uncontrolled skid, but on the track this is irrelevant, since the canvas is licked to a mirror shine

Ride Height (Low - High)
Clearance (Low - High)

It is important that the ground clearance matches the suspension settings. The higher the car is raised, the higher its center of gravity and, therefore, the stronger the roll when turning. In addition, there is a very high chance of capsizing. The tighter the car, the lower the center of gravity and the more precise and responsive the steering. In addition, the low landing provides better aerodynamic qualities.

Front\Rear Roll Bar Stiffness (Soft - Stiff)
Anti-roll bar (Soft - Hard)

The anti-roll bar prevents the car from swaying when turning. Of course, a machine is not a pendulum. The swing here is barely noticeable, but very important. The fact is that the car's suspension is designed so that the tire is parallel to the road. When turning, the car tilts (along with the suspension, of course) and the contact area of ​​the tire with the road decreases, which means the grip on the road decreases. The stiffness of the stabilizer should be set to three quarters to improve cornering stability, but do not take risks, because an overly stiff stabilizer can make the car behave unpredictable.

Front\Rear Tire Pressure (Low - High)
Pressure in Front/Rear tires (Low - High)

Tire pressure is an extremely important parameter for a racing car. The formula is simple: when high blood pressure the car seems to be flying over the road. The maximum speed and acceleration dynamics are better, but the grip is worse. If the pressure is low, there is a larger contact area between the rubber and the road, which means better grip, but worse speed characteristics. The best option: make the pressure lower in the drive wheels, and higher in the driven wheels

Camber (Positive - Negative)
Wheel camber

Camber is the angle between the vertical and the plane of rotation of the wheel. Simply put, if you look at the wheel from the front (with the wheels level), the level position is neutral camber. If the top of the wheel protrudes outward, it is negative camber; if the lower one is positive. Negative camber is used only in circuit racing on an oval, and even then only on the inner wheels, so that the contact of the tire with the track is maximum. Positive camber improves handling, because the car seems to cling to the road, but the tire wears out quickly in this wheel position, and the maximum speed is reduced. We conclude that toe should be set closer to “Plus”, but not far from the neutral position

Toe (Positive - Negative)
Convergence (Positive - Negative)

Toe is the angle between the direction of movement and the plane of rotation of the wheel. Positive toe is when the wheels are pointing inward, and negative toe is pointing outward. Negative toe improves handling through sharper steering feedback. Positive increases road stability. The setting depends on the specific route, but in general view it looks like this: if the track has a lot of high-speed turns, it is better to give preference to stability. And if there are more slow, sharp turns, try moving the slider to a negative position

Caster (Positive - Negative)
Kingpin tilt (Positive - Negative)

Increasing the inclination of the kingpin increases the machine's stability on the trajectory and straight line speed at the expense of worsening controllability. The deterioration is insignificant, so set it to the extreme right

Steering Response Ratio (Loose - Stiff)
Feedback steering wheel (Loose - Hard)

This value adjusts the steering sensitivity. A hard steering wheel helps you navigate a series of sharp turns, but at high speed any inaccuracy will lead to loss of stability and make the car uncontrollable. At speeds above three hundred kilometers per hour, the wrong move will cost you your car.

Tire settings do not affect speed. Packages more high level improve starting acceleration, but more speed is lost in corners (apparently due to different road grip). Depending on the route, the necessary packages should be selected, so there are no specific instructions. Try and check.

Engine
For all engine parameters, the optimal position, as in previous parts of the game, is +10, that is, all the power comes at maximum speed. It’s not surprising, since the entire race takes place at maximum speed.

Nitrous
Nitric oxide has only two parameters - pressure and injection force. We set the maximum pressure and the highest injection level. Both parameters regulate the increase in engine speed and power. Too much great importance can lead to slipping and loss of control, too little and the nitro will burn out and you won’t even notice it

Gearbox (Drivetrain)
Unlike the Carbon, the gearbox setup here is logical: short gears give quick acceleration and, accordingly, a low top speed. Long ones allow you to gain more speed, but it takes much longer for the tachometer needle to reach high revs. Start running in the track using the factory settings of the gearbox, and after understanding at what speeds it is best to take turns on the track, select the gear ratios.

Brakes
Brake settings do not affect speed, but with the third level package the car is faster than with the factory one. What caused this is not clear. Standard lottery Need for Speed