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Where should the valve be located on the boiler? Adjusting the safety valve for the water heater. Features of installation and adjustment of valve devices

When operating any heating equipment, it is very important to follow all recommended safety precautions. This applies not only to large installations that are used in construction or production, but also to compact devices, such as household water heaters.

If you ignore safety rules, the consequences can be extremely serious - after all, we are talking not only about your life, but also about the lives of the people around you. A safety valve is a very important thing in equipping a home water heater, which, unfortunately, many people forget about. In this article we will tell you what this device is for, how it works, and how to use it correctly.


Purpose

To understand the purpose of the safety valve, first let’s remember the basic things from the school physics course. It is known that water tends to increase in volume when heated. If you heat water to 80 degrees (the approximate maximum temperature of hot water from the tap), its volume will increase by 2 or 3% - this depends on what the temperature was at the beginning of heating.


Since the container in which the water is heated in the boiler is sealed, the pressure inside this container inevitably increases with strong heating. An uncontrolled increase in pressure may result in an explosion of the device. This is where the safety valve comes to our aid. It performs the following functions:

  • prevents hot water from flowing back into water pipes;
  • normalizes the pressure inside the water heater, minimizing the likelihood of water hammer;
  • gets rid of excess water by dumping it as soon as normal pressure and temperature are exceeded;
  • makes it possible to safely drain the water from the boiler for maintenance.


If you are faced with the question of whether to install a safety valve on a boiler, we bring to your attention a video by Gennady Myagkov, in which he explains why and when it is necessary to install a valve and how it works.

Design and principle of operation

Despite its rather wide functionality, the safety valve has a very simple structure: its main elements are two cylinders - large and small.

  • Big cylinder is a kind of “check valve”. There is a flap inside it called a “poppet valve”. This valve is activated by a small spring. At both ends of the large cylinder there are threaded parts that are needed to connect the safety valve to other elements of the boiler.
  • Small cylinder fixed perpendicular to the large one. Both ends are plugged with plugs, and there is a drainage tube on the body. There is also a check valve inside the small cylinder, which operates in the opposite direction to the first.

How does a safety valve work? An increase in water pressure inside the boiler activates the check valve spring. It opens, allowing water to fill the tank. As soon as the water reaches the desired level, the pressure inside the water heater increases and the check valve slams shut. As the water in the tank is consumed, its reserves will be replenished automatically.


The check valve inside the small cylinder is rated for higher pressure. As soon as this indicator becomes critical, a spring is activated, opening the valve. Thus, excess water will be discharged.

Kinds

There are several different modifications of check valves for boilers. They differ in certain key parameters. For example, according to the installation method, check valves are divided into:

  • non-returnable;
  • reception rooms;
  • steel;
  • ball


Depending on the principle of operation, the following types of check valves can be distinguished:

  • straight;
  • indirect;
  • designed for two positions;
  • proportional.


Finally, there are several more types of check valves for boilers based on the height of the constipation:

  • full lift;
  • mid-lift;
  • low-lift.


With release handle

One of the most common types of check valves that are equipped with water heaters is a valve with a release handle. Let's talk briefly about its structure and principle of operation.

The design of a check valve with a release handle has the following elements: a body, a water release fitting, a forced pressure release handle, a safety valve spring and a check valve spring.

Under the influence of water pressure, the spring of the check valve is compressed, as a result of which the poppet valve rotates and allows water access to the tank. Once enough water has been collected, the check valve returns to its original position.

The release handle is needed to, if necessary, forcefully relieve pressure inside the system. As soon as the pressure exceeds the permissible maximum, a safety valve is activated, through which excess water is discharged, thereby normalizing the pressure.


For indirect heating boiler

Many apartments have indirect water heaters. Indirect heating does not occur in the boiler itself, but in another device, most often in a heating boiler. Thus, the operation of the indirect boiler and the boiler is closely interrelated. For this type of water heater, it is necessary to select a suitable safety valve.


All the characteristics we need are indicated in the technical data sheet of the device, so be sure to study this document before purchasing. It is important to know the permissible operating pressure of the device - you need to focus on it, and not on the pressure in the water pipes.

Can a safety valve be replaced with a non-return valve?

Users of household water heaters often ask the question: “Is it possible to install a non-return valve instead of a safety valve?” Technically this is possible, but under no circumstances should you do this. If you make such a replacement, the boiler will turn into a balloon that can burst at any moment.


For example, when water is heated to 150 degrees, the boiler can easily withstand the rapidly increasing pressure. However, if you open a hot water tap at this moment, the pressure inside the water tank will begin to drop quickly. Next, the boiling point will drop to 100 degrees, but it will not have time to cool down so quickly. As a result, the water will instantly boil, a huge amount of steam will be released, the pressure will jump up and a rather strong explosion will occur.

When choosing a safety valve for a household water heater, use the recommendations that experts have compiled for you.

  • Among the variety of designs, the spring mechanism is the most reliable, as it is able to withstand water pressure well.
  • We must not forget about such a factor as valve capacity. We advise you to choose a low or full lift device.


  • Consider the water supply and sewer systems in your home. If excess liquid will be discharged into the atmosphere, choose an open safety valve, and if into a specially equipped pipeline, then choose a closed one.
  • When choosing a safety valve, you should remember the maximum allowable pressure in the water heater system. If it is higher than indicated in the technical data sheet of the device, the valve will not be able to function normally.

Checking for serviceability

At home, you can quite easily find out whether the safety valve installed on the water heater is working properly. To do this, you just need to set the temperature regulator to the maximum value and open the hot water tap. If, after the water in the boiler has heated to the required temperature, excess liquid begins to flow out through the safety valve, then it is quite suitable for operation. If water does not flow through the valve, it is most likely faulty.

Not only the duration of its operation, but also the level of safety during operation will depend on the quality of the piping of an electric storage water heater. This is one of the most serious moments when installing a boiler and requires special attention. Correct strapping for a water heater is called a safety valve built into the cold water supply system.

The integration of a safety valve protects against a sudden increase in pressure in the internal part of the unit, significantly exceeding the norm. The question arises, what is the reason for such a jump? As we were able to establish, during heating the liquid increases in volume and, therefore, expands. Due to the tightness of the heater reservoir, the resulting excess simply has nowhere to go - the tap is turned off (as a rule, a check valve is installed on the supply).

Further heating of the liquid may cause increase in pressure. At this moment, there is a danger of exceeding the tensile strength of the unit and rupturing its walls. To avoid such an explosion, a safety valve is installed for the boiler.

Some owners may ask: is it worth the hassle of installing a fuse when you can simply remove check valve. Experts answer this as follows: at a relatively high and uniform pressure in the water supply system, such a scheme will function, but for some time. This does not mean that such actions are a way out of the situation. The fallacy of this scheme is due to a number of reasons:

  1. The pressure in the water supply system is not stable.
  2. Excess water is removed from the boiler into the water supply, exposing the heating element.
  3. By heating the air, the boiler will fail after a while.

Burnt out heaters are not the biggest problem. Much more importantly, there is a danger of unexpected pressure changes in water pipes. The liquid, falling on the heated heating element, quickly turns into steam, sharply increasing the pressure. Under such conditions, the walls of the boiler are guaranteed to rupture. A large amount of boiling water and steam, pushed by pressure, will fill the room, threatening everyone in it with serious injury.

Principle of operation

In addition to the main structure, a safety valve for a water heater consists of several more elements. They are housed in a brass or nickel housing. In most cases, the device looks like an inverted letter T. It is attached to the bottom of the tank on the water heater check valve, capable of preventing liquid from leaking out of the tank when the pressure in the pipes drops.

The perpendicular branch contains another valve, which is activated after the pressure increases and discharges excess liquid through the fitting. The operating principle occurs in several stages.

  1. If the tank pressure is lower than that occurring in the pipes, when filling or opening the tap, the poppet plate in the check valve is pressed out by the water pressure. When the pressure level returns to normal, a spring mechanism presses the plate against the protrusion of the housing, limiting the flow of liquid.
  2. During active heating, the temperature of the liquid slowly increases, and at the same time the pressure increases. Until it reaches the maximum value, the mechanism is not activated.
  3. After reaching the limit level, the pressure compresses the fuse spring, opening outlet channel of the fitting. Excessive volume of liquid from the reservoir is removed through this channel. After the pressure drops to the normal level, the spring closes the flow and water removal stops.

Based on the above, it can be understood that liquid will periodically drain from the fitting channel. This phenomenon occurs when water is heated and pressure in the water supply system decreases. If you regularly notice water at the fitting, this means that the safety valve for the boiler is operating normally.

However, at the same time there is a need to drain the flowing liquid. To carry out the procedure, a tube of a suitable size is attached to the nozzle: it must be tighten with a clamp to ensure secure fastening. The standard operating pressure in the water heater tank is from six to ten bar. Without reliable fastening, the tube will simply break off, so the choice of clamp must be approached with special care. Tighten it tightly and lead the tube to the nearest sewer drain.

The tube to the fitting should be transparent; the ideal option would be a reinforced hose. This helps control the performance of the system, and the reinforcement provides additional protection against pressure.

Valve operating principle

Features of different types of valves

If we talk about a standard safety valve for a boiler, they are not very different in appearance. However, there are small nuances that are responsible for the ease of use of the device.

The image shows valves equipped with release levers. Their purpose is to periodically check serviceability:

  • the lever is moved to a vertical position;
  • it activates the spring mechanism, pulling it along with it;
  • As a result, a channel opens through which water flows.

Release lever on valve

The differences between the models shown are that the valve located on the left has a fixed lever special bolt. This eliminates the possibility of involuntary opening and complete removal of liquid.

The following image shows valves without a positive fluid release lever. The left model has a threaded lid at the top. It is intended for maintenance of fuses. If necessary, unscrew it to remove blockages, scale and other contaminants.

Valves without lever

The right model is the least preferred option. It does not have any markers, a water release lever or a service hole. This is the cheapest and lowest quality product coming from China. There is no need to talk about reliability and durability. You can use it only as a temporary replacement at your own peril and risk.

Pressure rating note

There are a few other notable differences. The arrow shown on the body indicates water flow direction, as well as an inscription informing about maximum pressure, which the device can withstand. At first glance, the details seem insignificant. But if you can easily figure out the direction of liquid flow (to do this, just look at the location of the poppet-type valve), then the situation with ratings is more complicated.

By what signs can you distinguish between a six and ten bar valve? Only by experience. You may ask, how do suppliers differentiate them? No, only according to the inscriptions in the documents. Experts do not recommend purchasing devices without any markings on the case. Of course, the cost of labeled products may be higher than that of analogues, but it is better not to save on this issue.

Fitting shape

In addition, it is worth paying attention to the shape of the fluid removal fitting. In the left model this element is quite long and has a nonlinear shape. It will be easy to attach the tube to it, and the length is quite enough for secure fastening with a clamp.

The shape of the similar element in the right model is different. It has a characteristic expansion at the end, but the most important thing is the length of the fitting. It will be quite difficult to install the tube on it and even more difficult to ensure a secure fit. The use of artisanal methods will not guarantee a good result, and difficulties with drainage may arise in the future.

For large volume boilers

Each of the devices described above is designed for a storage water heater with a volume of fifty to sixty liters. For larger tanks, other systems are used, each of which integrates special equipment. Most often this ball pressure gauge or a valve that controls pressure.

Ball pressure gauge

They are equipped with a fitting for removing liquid standard thread to increase the reliability of fastening and solve the problem with clamps. This type of device has a high price, but the level of quality is significantly higher than other systems.

A significant disadvantage for many owners can be the appearance of the faucet. Especially for such people, the production of fuses has been launched, which not only have practical benefits, but can also decorate the interior of the room. Their cost can significantly reach the price of the boiler itself, so everyone will have to assess the feasibility of such a purchase for themselves.

Installation of other valves

There are cases when, instead of the factory pressure surge protection system, a heater tank is installed blast valve. It is intended primarily for emergency removal of liquid into the heating system. Although their functionality is largely the same, the basic principle of operation is fundamentally different.

The blast-type valve performs its functions only during an emergency. It is needed to urgently remove all water from the tank. It is not intended for periodic bleeding of small portions of liquid. Considering all this, you should not expect correct functioning from such a craft.

Another example is mounting only check valve. Its mechanism will not allow liquid to drain at low pressure in the system, but it will not be able to save you from sudden surges in the tank. As practice shows, such an assembly is also not functional.

Diagram of all components of safe operation of a water heater

Selection and installation

The fuse should be selected based on the pressure that the device can withstand. This figure is usually included in the registration certificate. In addition, the volume of the tank may influence the choice. There are systems with a response threshold of six, seven, eight, ten Bars. These are the most common values ​​for tripping the fuse.

The installation process is quite simple.

  1. Wrap a special tape or flax tow around the threads for a tight seal.
  2. Screw the valve onto the pipe.
  3. Continue to tighten it all the way with your hands, and then turn it a few times using the wrench.
  4. Do not forget about choosing the right place for its installation. Experts recommend attaching it directly to the cold water inlet pipe.

After this, you can install a check valve system, or as it is also called - constipation. But these are reinsurance measures; a device with similar functions is already included in the fuse system, and it is also often integrated into water meters.

The diagram demonstrates ball valve location. It is used to remove liquid from the tank during winter storage or during dismantling. Drying may also be required during maintenance or repair. In most cases, it is installed on a tee, which, in turn, is connected to the fuse system.

You should not skimp on such an important detail as a fuse. This device will not only help you maintain the functionality of the heater, but may also save you from serious injury. Pressure surges in the water supply are a common occurrence, and no one is immune from tank failure. Spend some time installing safety valves to ensure your safety.

Not only the service life of the equipment, but also the safety of residents depends on the correct piping of an electric storage water heater (boiler). That's how serious things are. And its correct piping is a safety valve for a cold water supply water heater.

What is it needed for

Installing a safety valve prevents the pressure inside the device from increasing above the standard value. What causes blood pressure to rise? As you know, when heated, water expands, increasing in volume. Since the boiler is a sealed device, there is nowhere for the excess to go - the taps are closed, and there is usually a check valve at the supply. Therefore, heating the water leads to an increase in pressure. It may well happen that it exceeds the tensile strength of the device. Then the tank will explode. To prevent this from happening, they install a safety valve for the water heater.

This is what an installed pressure relief valve looks like in a water heater

Maybe there is no need to install a safety valve, but simply remove the non-return valve? At a sufficiently high and stable pressure in the water supply, such a system will work for some time. But the solution is fundamentally wrong, and here’s why: the pressure in the water supply is rarely stable. There are often situations when water barely flows from the tap. Then the hot water from the boiler is forced out into the water supply system. In this case, the heating elements will be exposed. They will heat the air for some time and then burn out.

But burnt-out heating elements are not the worst thing. It’s much worse if they get hot, and at this time the pressure in the water supply rises sharply. The water that gets on the hot heaters evaporates, a sharp increase in pressure occurs - with a jerk - which leads to a guaranteed rupture of the boiler flask. At the same time, a decent volume of scalding water and steam escapes into the room under high pressure. What this could mean is clear.

How does it work

It would be more correct to call a safety valve for a water heater a valve system, since there are two of them in the device.

Safety valve device for boiler

They are located in a brass or nickel-plated case, which looks like an inverted letter “T” (see photo). At the bottom of the housing there is a check valve that prevents the outflow of water from the water heater when the pressure in the system decreases. In the perpendicular branch there is another valve, which, if the pressure is exceeded, allows some of the water to be released through the fitting.

The working mechanism is as follows:

  • While the pressure in the boiler is less than that in the water supply (when filling or when the tap is open), the check valve plate is pressed out by the flow of water. As soon as the pressure is equalized, the spring presses the plate against the protrusions of the body, blocking the flow of water.
  • When the heating is turned on, the water temperature gradually increases, and with it the pressure also increases. As long as it does not exceed the limit, nothing happens.
  • When the threshold level is reached, the pressure compresses the safety valve spring, and the outlet to the fitting opens. Some of the water from the boiler is released through the fitting. When the pressure drops to normal, the spring closes the passage and the water stops flowing.

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Based on the principle of operation, it is clear that water will constantly drip from the fitting. This happens when the water heats up and the pressure in the water supply decreases. If you periodically see water on the fitting, then everything is working normally. But the draining liquid must be drained. To do this, put a tube of a suitable diameter on the pipe and secure it with a clamp. The normal operating pressure of the boiler is from 6 Bar to 10 Bar. Without mechanical fastening, the tube will be torn off in no time, so we select a high-quality clamp and tighten it well. Place the tube into the nearest sewer drain.

One more point: the tube for the fitting needs to be transparent and preferably reinforced (the so-called “herringbone”). Why reinforced is understandable - because of pressure, and transparent - to be able to monitor the performance of the device.

Types and varieties

If we are talking about conventional safety valves for a water heater, then they look almost the same, only the nuances differ. But it is these small details that are responsible for ease of use.

Safety valve for boiler with forced pressure release option

The photo above shows two safety valves with release levers. They are needed for periodic performance checks. The lever flag is lifted up. It pulls the spring behind it, freeing it to release water. This check should be carried out approximately once a month. You can also empty the boiler tank by raising the flag and waiting for everything to drain.

The difference in the presented models is that the model in the photo on the left has a lever secured with a screw. This eliminates the possibility of accidental opening and complete discharge of water.

Two more differences are striking. This is an arrow on the body indicating the direction of water movement, and an inscription showing what pressure the device is designed for. Seemingly minor details. But if you can figure out the direction of water movement (look in which direction the poppet valve is turned), then the nominal value is more difficult. How to distinguish, for example, whether it is 6 Bar or 10 Bar? Only checks. How will sellers differentiate them? No way. By boxes. What if they put it in the wrong box? In general, it is better not to take it without markings on the case. These are usually the cheapest of the Chinese designs, but the difference in price is not so great that it is worth the risk.

Also pay attention to the shape of the water discharge fitting. The model on the left has a long fitting and has a non-linear shape. The hose fits on it quite easily and is long enough to install a clamp. The shape of the fitting on the model on the right is different - with an extension towards the end, but more importantly, the fitting is short. You can still pull the hose onto it, but the clamp is questionable. Unless you crimp it with wire...

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The following photo shows the safety valves without a forced pressure release flag. The one on the left has a threaded cap at the top. This is a serviceable model. If necessary, you can unscrew the lid to remove clogs, scale and other contaminants.

Safety valves - serviceable and not

The model on the right is the worst option. No markings, forced resets or maintenance. These are usually the cheapest available, but this is their only advantage.

All of the above models are suitable for water heaters with a volume of up to 50-60 liters. Larger boilers come with other models, many of which have built-in additional devices. Typically this is a ball valve and/or pressure gauge to control pressure.

For boilers up to 200 liters

The water drain fitting here has a standard thread, so there will be no problems with fastening reliability. Such devices already have a fairly high price, but their quality and reliability are much higher.

With pressure gauge and original

Not everyone likes the appearance of these devices. For those who attach great importance to aesthetics, very attractive devices are produced. Their price, however, is comparable to the price of an expensive water heater, but it’s beautiful.

Is it possible to install other valves?

Sometimes, instead of a special safety valve for a boiler, a blast valve is installed, which is intended for the emergency release of heating water. Although their functions are similar, the main mode of operation is fundamentally different. The demolition device should only be used in emergency situations. It is designed for volley discharge of a large volume of liquid. It is not suitable for constantly bleeding small portions of water. Accordingly, it will not work correctly.

Another case is to install only a check valve. It will not allow water to drain when the pressure in the water supply decreases, but it will not save you from increasing pressure in the boiler. So this option doesn't work either.

How to choose and install

Select a safety valve for a water heater based on the pressure for which the unit is designed. This number is in the passport. The volume of the tank also influences the choice. They produce devices with operating limits of 6, 7, 8, 10 Bar. Basically, all units are designed for this pressure. So everything is simple here.

Installation is simple: flax tow or fum tape is wound onto the threads, after which the valve is screwed onto the pipe. Twist it all the way by hand, then another one or two turns using keys. It is much more important to choose the right place to install it. When installing a water heater, this valve is installed directly on the cold water inlet pipe.

Safe operation is exactly the factor that firefighters, employees of the Ministry of Emergency Situations, housing and communal services, police and other utility companies tirelessly tell us about. You may be surprised by the fact that a large percentage of people simply ignore safe installation, do not pay attention to basic safety rules, and a safety valve for a water heater is generally an unnecessary innovation from the realm of science fiction.

But what happens if the electric boiler simply explodes? This is a huge danger for residents and the building itself. And the cause of the explosion is often the refusal of careless boiler owners to buy and install an inexpensive and easy-to-use safety valve.

Why is the safety valve on your water heater so important?

To better understand and understand the importance of the valve, let's understand its design and system.

How does a safety valve work?

Let's start with the fact that the boiler safety valve is very simple. The design consists of two cylinders located parallel to each other and with a common cavity.

The large cylinder contains a poppet-shaped valve that is supported by a spring. It produces water flow in one direction. In general, this is a well-known check valve. The ends of both cylinders are threaded so that the valve can be connected to the heating system and pipes.

The second cylinder has a much smaller diameter and is located perpendicularly. There is a plug on the outside, and a pipe is made in the body for draining and discharging water (drainage). There is also a poppet-type valve located inside, only with the opposite direction of action.

Often on such a device there is a handle or lever that helps open the drainage mechanism at any time.

What is the principle of operation of the mechanism?

The valve also operates on a simple principle. Cold water creates pressure in the water supply and squeezes out the poppet check valve, due to which the heater tank is completely filled.

If the tank begins to fill, then the internal pressure exceeds the external one, the valve begins to close, and when water flows out, it ensures filling.

A more powerful spring is installed in the second valve, which is designed for increased pressure in the cylinder, which will begin to increase when it is filled. If the pressure in the cylinder begins to exceed the norm, this acts on the spring, which, compressing, opens a drainage hole where excess water flows out.

Frequently asked question: Why is proper operation of the water heater valve so important?

Perhaps, with our description of the valve structure, we did not convince you that this is a very important thing. Then let's simulate the situation that his absence could lead to.

Let's assume that there is simply no safety valve, which is located on the tank and ensures the outflow of standing water.

Even if the pressure in the water supply remains at a stable level, the boiler will not work correctly. This is very simple to explain - if the temperature in a tank with a stable water level begins to rise, then the pressure will automatically increase.

There will come a time when the pressure inside the tank exceeds the pressure of the supplied water and the heated water, on the contrary, goes into the water supply system. Then everything will be disrupted - hot water will flow from the warm tap and from the toilet barrel. In this case, the heat regulator continues to work stably, and the boiler will continue to waste expensive energy.

The situation will become critical if there is a pressure surge in the water supply system, which happens quite often in our country, for example, when the water pressure at a water pumping station drops at night.

Pipes may generally be empty due to an accident or repair work. The water in the boiler will gradually begin to pour out, and the water heater itself will heat the void, which leads to burnout.

What if we take a complex model?

You can say that the water heater has an automatic system that stops the flow of water, or stops heating. But you must understand that the automatic machine is not installed on all models and any mechanism malfunctions.

It seems that to protect yourself from such a situation, you just need to install a check valve.

Our “Kulibins” do just that, not fully understanding that the check valve in this case is a time bomb. I don’t even want to imagine what will happen if the thermostat closes. The water in the tank begins to boil, and since there is no way out of the circle, the pressure will begin to increase, and if the pressure is increased, the boiling point of the water automatically increases. The least that can happen is a crack in the enamel coating inside the tank.

If a crack forms due to a pressure drop, or you simply manage to open the tap, the pressure will return to normal, but the water inside will still exceed 100 degrees. Then the entire volume of liquid will boil very quickly and an explosion will still occur.

All this can and should be avoided if you buy a working valve. So, let's summarize.

Valve main value:

  • Prevents water from flowing back from the boiler into the water supply system.
  • Optimizes and balances pressure surges inside the boiler, protects against water hammer.
  • Discharges excess water when it overheats, thereby preventing pressure from going off scale.
  • If the valve has a lever, you can easily drain unnecessary water during maintenance.

About installing a plumbing system

To start using a water heater, it must be connected to the water supply system. You can buy and install polypropylene pipes.

Nowadays, the option of metal-plastic pipes is considered fashionable and most convenient. Before you buy anything, compare prices on online sites.

About installing a valve on a water heater

First, select a model. As a rule, if the boiler is really good, then it already contains valves with the required parameters. If you don’t find it, then in case of replacement you will have to buy it with your own money. Their price is small - a maximum of 400 rubles. If there are usually no questions regarding the thread, since the diameter of a conventional valve is no more than half an inch, then what you need to pay special attention to is the operating pressure.

Before buying a water heater, check all its parameters in the instruction manual, or consult the sellers on site.

Do not buy a valve with a low pressure rating - it will start leaking very quickly. If you choose a valve with a large value, it will not save you from trouble if the boiler overheats.

How to properly install a water heater valve?

Before installation, check that the boiler is not connected to the mains and drain all water.

The valve must be installed in the place where cold water enters the heater. The process itself is absolutely not complicated - you wrap it with a key 3-4 turns, and use sealants (tape, tow - whatever you want). The second end of the thread must be connected to the cold water supply system.

Be sure to follow the direction of the incoming water (look at the valve body - there should be an arrow drawn there).

If you notice that the pressure fluctuates or is elevated, then before installing the valve, install a water reducer.

Not everyone likes it when water starts leaking out from under the valve. Remember - this is absolutely normal. This indicates that the mechanism works without deviations. Another reasonable solution is to connect the drainage pipe to the sewer using a hose. It is best to choose a transparent hose so that you can easily assess the performance of the entire system.

If you purchase a valve with a lower pressure, water will constantly flow from it

  1. It is PROHIBITED to install a locking mechanism between the valve and the water heater.
  2. The pressure on the valve will automatically increase the vertical section of the pipes, and then cold water will begin to leak, which you do not need at all. Make sure that the distance between the valve and the heater is 2 meters.

What should you do if water begins to flow heavily through the pipe and does not warm up?
Check the pressure in the pipeline - it can be very high (but this happens very rarely). To solve the problem, install a gearbox.

Check the valve - you may have purchased a low pressure model that is not suitable for your boiler. If everything is in order here, then the problem is in the spring - it has sat down and it’s time to change the valve.

If the valve remains dry in any situation, this should be a cause for concern. If even with strong pressure of water not a drop comes out of it, this means that it is simply faulty - clogged or greasy. Don't take risks either and hurry up and buy a new one.

Buying and installing this simple device is very simple, but you will be sure that you are safe, and your home is protected from fire, and the residents of the house are protected from harm that a faulty water heater can cause.

The service life of the storage boiler, as well as the safety of using the device, depend on the correct piping. One of the important components is the safety valve for the water heater, installed on the incoming cold water pipe.

To understand why a valve is installed on a water heater, it’s worth remembering the school curriculum. According to the law of physics, water expands when heated. The liquid is inside a sealed container. If there is no water supply, the pressure rises and the tank may rupture. A safety valve for the boiler, which bleeds excess liquid from the tank, will help prevent an accident.

On forums you can find information where they advise simply not to install a check valve. Then there is no need to install an excess water pressure relief valve. In their opinion, when excess pressure appears, some of the water will go back into the pipeline. The advice is partially correct, but the system will work as long as the water supply system functions stably. The advice is wrong for three reasons:

  • there are no stable operating water pipelines without breakdowns;
  • without a check valve, all the water from the tank will go into the empty pipeline;
  • a bare heating element will heat the air inside the empty container.

Now let's look at the end result of the problem. When there is a water supply failure, the pipes are left empty. There is no check valve on the inlet pipe, and water from the storage tank flows freely into the system. When the temperature drops, the thermostat will turn on the heating element. Without water, the heater will simply burn out, but this is only half the problem.

There is another danger. The heating element is hot and water appears in the water supply. A large amount of steam and excess pressure suddenly forms inside the tank, which does not have time to be released back into the pipeline. The tank is guaranteed to burst in several places. Boiling water will pour into the apartment. For this reason, it is better not to overthink it, but simply install a water relief valve.

Design and operation

There is nothing complicated about the design of a safety valve for a water heater. Most often, the safety unit is made as a single piece. A safety valve and a check valve are contained within one housing.

The standard product diagram looks like this:

  • The bronze case inside has two chambers. The design resembles the letter "T". There are two threads cut on the body of the check valve chamber for fastening to the water supply. The safety valve chamber body is equipped with a water drain fitting.
  • Inside the check valve there is a spring that holds a rod on which a round plate is attached. When closed, it prevents water from flowing back from the tank into the empty water supply.
  • A safety valve similarly has a stem with a spring and a round plate. Most models are equipped with a forced water release lever. This element is directly connected to the stem.

The water heater usually comes with the cheapest safety valves without a lever. It’s better to throw them away and buy a quality product.

In general terms, the operating principle of a safety valve looks like this:

  • As water is drawn, the pressure inside the tank drops. The safety valve is closed. Due to the pressure difference, the check valve opens and the tank begins to refill. When the pressure in the water supply and inside the container is equal, the check valve closes.
  • The boiler thermostat turns on the heating element. The liquid begins to heat up, increasing in volume. If the pressure reaches a critical level, but there is no water supply, the safety valve is activated. Hot liquid is drained through the fitting. After normalizing the pressure, the spring returns the mechanism to its original position.

The thermostat constantly monitors the set temperature and periodically turns on the heating element. If there is no analysis, the pressure will constantly increase with each increase in water temperature. During this period, liquid drips from the fitting. This is normal operating time. To prevent water from pouring onto the floor, a transparent reinforced hose is fixed to the fitting with a clamp, diverting its end into the sewer.

Types of security groups and the principle of choosing the appropriate model

A standard safety valve for a boiler may differ in design in several design features. These nuances do not change the functionality of the device, but only simplify use and maintenance. To choose the right safety unit, you need to know what safety valves for boilers are and how they differ.

Lever models

The most common type of standard safety assembly is the lever model. This mechanism can be activated manually, which is convenient when checking or draining water from the boiler tank. They do it like this:

  • A horizontally located lever is installed vertically;
  • direct connection to the stem activates the spring mechanism;
  • the safety valve plate forcibly opens the hole and water begins to flow from the fitting.

Even if the tank is not completely emptied, a control drain is performed monthly to check the functionality of the safety unit.

The products differ in the design of the lever and the fitting for discharging water. If possible, it is better to choose a model with a flag fixed to the body. The fastening is made with a bolt that prevents children from manually opening the lever. The product has a convenient herringbone-shaped fitting with three threads, which ensures reliable fixation of the hose.

The cheaper model does not have a flag lock. You can accidentally catch the lever with your hand and unnecessary drainage of water will begin. The fitting is short, with only one threading ring. It is inconvenient to fix the hose onto such a protrusion and can tear it off under strong pressure.

Models without lever

Safety valves without a lever are the cheapest and most inconvenient option. Such models often come complete with a water heater. Experienced plumbers simply throw them away. The units operate similarly to lever models, but there is no way to manually perform a control drain or empty the boiler tank.

Models without a lever come in two versions: with a cover at the end of the body and blind. The first option is more convenient. If clogged, the cover can be unscrewed to clean the mechanism. A blind model cannot be tested for functionality and cannot be descaled. The fluid discharge fittings for both valves are short with one threaded ring.

Safety components for large water heaters

Water heaters with a storage tank volume of 100 liters or more are equipped with improved safety valves. They work in a similar way, only they are additionally equipped with a ball valve for forced drainage, as well as a pressure gauge.

Particular attention should be paid to the fluid drainage fitting. It's threaded. Reliable fastening prevents the hose from being torn off by strong pressure and eliminates the inconvenient use of the clamp.

Original models

For lovers of aesthetics and comfort, manufacturers offer original safety components. The product is equipped with a pressure gauge, chrome plated, and given an elegant shape. The products look beautiful, but their cost is high.

Difference in body markings

High-quality products must be marked on the body. The manufacturer indicates the maximum permissible pressure, as well as the direction of water movement. The second marking is an arrow. It helps to determine which side to place the part on the boiler pipe.

On cheap Chinese models there are often no markings. You can figure out the direction of the liquid without an arrow. The check valve plate must open upward in relation to the boiler pipe so that water from the water supply flows into the tank. But it’s impossible to determine the permissible pressure without markings. If the indicator does not match, the safety unit will constantly leak or will not work at all in an emergency.

Other types of valves

When they try to save money on a safety group, they try to install a blast valve designed for the heating system on the water heater. The nodes are similar in functionality, but there is one nuance. The blast valve is not capable of releasing liquid little by little. The mechanism will work when the excess pressure reaches a critical point. The blast valve can only release all the water from the tank in the event of an accident.

Separately, it is worth considering installing only a check valve. The mechanism of this unit, on the contrary, locks the water inside the tank, preventing it from draining into the pipeline. If there is excess pressure, the working plate with the rod is not able to work in the opposite direction, which will lead to rupture of the tank.

Installation and adjustment of the safety unit

Anyone can install a safety valve on a boiler without the help of a plumber. The correct installation diagram indicates that the safety unit is attached to the cold water inlet pipe of the water heater. Below are taps, filters and other piping elements.

The valve is installed on the water heater in the following sequence:

  • The safety valve is installed directly on the cold water inlet pipe going inside the water heater. Often a detachable adapter is placed between them - “American” for ease of dismantling during maintenance.
  • Fum tape is wound onto the threads of the pipe or adapter to seal the connection. The safety assembly is screwed on so that the arrow on the body is directed towards the boiler.
  • When screwing the safety valve onto the water heater, you need to stop when you feel a stop. On cheap models there is no mounting fuse. The part is screwed four turns. You can't turn it anymore. The thread of the pipe will close the channel of the fitting for draining the water.

After installation, it is worth looking inside the housing from the check valve side. Inside the hole you can see the seat and the locking mechanism plate itself. To check the functionality, press the plate with a finger or pencil. It should move inward, and when released, return to its original place.

When the entire circuit is assembled, begin adjusting the security unit:

  • The water heater is filled with water, voltage is applied and the thermostat is set to the maximum temperature. You have to wait until complete heating occurs, and the automation will turn off the heating element.
  • Drops of liquid should appear from the fitting. If they are not there, turn the adjusting screw until a positive result is obtained.
  • After adjustment, use the lever to bleed some water from the tank, after which the mechanism is returned to the closed state. The drip from the fitting will stop. A new portion of water will flow inside the tank. The heating element will heat it up, and the liquid will again begin to drip from the fitting.
  • The mechanism, adjusted to the maximum temperature, will always work when the permissible limit is exceeded. Now you can set a lower operating temperature on the regulator, for example, 50–60 o C. When this threshold is reached, liquid will not drip from the fitting.

The safety group is checked for functionality of the forced drain lever and operation at maximum temperature once a month. If the adjusting screw is missing and the mechanism does not operate according to the required parameters, the part is replaced.

Malfunctions and solutions

A faulty boiler safety valve is detected by liquid constantly flowing from the fitting or when there are no drops at the maximum heating temperature. A failure is considered to be the absence of forced drainage when the lever is raised.

Let's consider possible malfunctions:

  • Liquid constantly flowing from the fitting appears at high pressure in the water supply. If the safety group is designed for 6 Bar, then at 7–8 Bar the excess will be constantly released into the line. You can check by forced draining using the lever. If the dripping stops after bleeding, then the problem is in the high pressure of the water supply. It is necessary to install a gearbox at the entrance to the house.
  • When water continues to flow after releasing the pressure, the cause is a clogged working spring. If the safety group can be disassembled, all elements are cleaned of dirt and put in their place.
  • The absence of a drip and forced drainage indicates a clogged fitting or the entire working mechanism. There is only one way out - disassemble and clean.

If the part is not removable or cannot be repaired, it should be replaced immediately.

The water heater safety group is not a component that you skimp on. Repairing a boiler will cost more.