Yucca diseases and their treatment. Diseases and pests of yucca - photos, signs, treatment methods. Stem and root rot
How to increase a plant's resistance to stress? What to do if problems could not be avoided? How to recognize approaching trouble? Let's talk about everything in order.
The evergreen indoor yucca is endemic to Central America, a region with a hot and dry climate. This could not but affect the formation of the annual cycle of its life activity, one of the stages of which is a period of pronounced dormancy.
When the plant goes into “sleep,” which occurs around the end of October and lasts until February–March, it sharply reduces its consumption of moisture and nutrients and stops growing. Accordingly, the watering and fertilizing regime needs to be adjusted. What if you don't do this? With a high degree of probability, diseases will not be long in coming, and yucca will already need not only preventive measures, but also their treatment.
The health of yucca is determined by a combination of factors such as light, humidity, and temperature. What should they be like during the rest period?
- There should be a lot of light. If in summer yucca is recommended to receive diffused sunlight and keep it at some distance from the window, then by winter the pots can be moved closer to the light source, for example, as in the photo below.
- The optimal winter temperature is 10–14° C. It is undesirable for it to fall below 8° C or rise above 25° C.
- Watering is reduced to 1-2 times a month.
- Feeding is suspended until spring.
It happens that it is not possible to lower the temperature to optimal parameters. In this case, the earthen ball will dry out faster, and you can water the plant a little more often.
But the greatest harm to yucca comes from a combination of low temperature (for example, the pot is on a cold windowsill) and excessive watering. Mold and pathogenic bacteria will 100% settle in wet, cold soil. And further. Yucca is very afraid of drafts.
By the way, if the “palm tree” is transplanted during this period, it will probably get sick. Dormant roots will not be able to absorb the increased volume of soil and moisture, and this is a direct path to fungal infections.
Common Yucca Diseases
Most diseases of yucca are associated with improper maintenance - waterlogging of the soil, depletion of the soil mixture, and, consequently, weakening of the plant's immunity. But it happens that the infection enters from the outside, for example, with the substrate or other indoor flowers. What problems most often arise with palm trees?
Fungal infections affecting the crown
Several groups of fungi manifest themselves by infecting yucca leaves. All sorts of spots, yellowing, and sores appear on them. If you don’t catch it in time, the spots increase, merge, and eventually the leaves dry out and the plant itself droops. We’ll tell you how to revive it at home using the example of several diseases.
Cercospora is an infection caused by a fungal pathogen (Cercospora)
A favorable environment for this fungus is high humidity. It occurs due to constant overflows, as well as when the grower gets carried away with spraying plants. Round spots of light brown color with a dark border appear on the leaves, which gradually grow, affecting new areas.
Having noticed the disease, first of all remove the affected leaves as much as possible.
Then treat with a systemic fungicide, first a “light” one (Fundazol, Topaz). The number of sprayings is 2–3 times with an interval of 10 days.
And, of course, it is necessary to eliminate the factors that led to the yucca disease - dry the earthen ball, reduce watering, stop spraying the crown.
Brown spot
The causes of the lesion are similar to the previous disease, but are caused by a fungus of a different group. It primarily affects the lower (old) leaves. First, discolored areas appear, then they turn yellow, and after 3–4 months they become brown. At this time, you can notice fungal spores located in the center of the spots.
Control measures are the same as for cercospora. If the disease has progressed, you can use a stronger fungicide, for example, Ridomil Gold.
Leaf marginal necrosis
This fungal infection is diagnosed by gray-brown spots affecting the edges of the leaf blade. Sometimes the spot can be “wet” and have a pronounced concentric shape.
If the speck is small, the sheet can not be removed, but only the diseased area can be cut out, capturing part of the healthy tissue. To disinfect the wound, treat the edges with crushed activated carbon.
After the “operation”, spray the yucca with a fungicide solution.
Fusarium rot
This is a dangerous fungal infection that leads to leaf rot. They are usually affected at the base and rot completely.
To combat fusarium fungus, systemic fungicides are used, such as Fundazol, Previkur, Profit. If the damage is severe, it is better to throw away the plant along with the pot.
To ensure effective control of diseases and pests, the crown, trunk and, of course, the soil are sprayed. Sometimes it is recommended to remove the top layer of substrate contaminated with fungal spores or insect larvae. In case of fungal diseases, to be on the safe side, the plant is not only sprayed, but also watered several times with a weak solution of fungicide.
Stem rot
If the loss of leaves is a temporary problem, new ones will grow after treatment, then everything is not so simple with the trunk. This is the main artery through which food flows; if it dies, the yucca will also die.
The trunk affected by rot becomes soft, brown ulcers appear on it, from which a watery substance oozes.
Only surgical intervention can save the plant. We definitely cut out the softened part of the trunk to healthy tissue. Further actions depend on what is left of the palm tree.
If this is the top, the cut is dried, treated with a growth stimulator (according to the instructions) and tried to root. This can be done in water or in a light substrate of peat and perlite.
Living root with part of the trunk? Wonderful! Treat the cut with activated or crushed charcoal and place in a bright, warm place. Apply Carbendazim fungicide solution to kill fungus in the soil. If everything is in order, the yucca will expel the shoots from the axillary buds.
Problems with roots
Often on forums you can “hear” the cry of the soul: “Yucca is dying, what to do?” Moreover, outwardly everything looks normal - no obvious diseases, no pests, but the plant is withering away. In such situations, the problem is most likely in the roots.
Root rot is a nightmare for succulents, which includes yucca. You can see it only when replanting the plant. Therefore, if you see that the plant is withering for no apparent reason, try to carefully remove it from the pot and inspect the roots. If they are dark and soft, it is root rot. Whether it will be possible to revive the yucca depends on the extent of the damage.
- If the roots have rotted completely, all that remains is to throw away the flower.
- Less than a third of diseased roots? Cut off anything suspicious and transplant the yucca into a new container with fresh substrate. After planting, water it with a fungicide solution and send the “sick” one to a warm and bright place.
- If more than half of the roots are damaged, but not all, you can try to save the plant. They need to be washed under the tap, and then all soft and darkened pieces should be cut off. Next, we plant, water with a fungicide solution, and place in the light. We are waiting for the result.
The reanimated plant should not be watered until you are sure that it has taken root and has begun to grow.
Yucca doesn't bloom
Some gardeners are concerned about the question of why yucca does not bloom; they even tend to attribute the problem to illness or improper maintenance. This is not entirely true.
The fact is that yucca almost never blooms in captivity. This is due to the fact that the conditions of its maintenance are far from the natural environment, the dormant period is relative, which means that the flower buds do not have time to ripen. And in natural conditions only adult “palm trees” bloom. Therefore, if the yucca is more than 10 years old and you provide it with peace in winter, there is a chance, although small, that it will throw out inflorescences with beautiful white bells.
You need to know the enemy by sight
In addition to diseases, some insects are enemies of yucca. Pests rarely attack a plant with strong immunity, but diseased, depleted specimens often become their target. Let's consider who can live with your pet.
Mealybug
Most often it affects a palm tree in the off-season, when the plant experiences stress from changes in temperature. Externally, mealybugs look like small cotton balls; if you crush the fluffy ball, bloody discharge appears. Its harm is enormous, since it sucks juice from leaves and branches and multiplies very quickly.
If you notice a mealybug infestation, thoroughly wipe the yucca leaves with a sponge dipped in warm, soapy water, removing all visible traces of the pest. After this, treat the plant with an insecticide (Aktara, Calypso, Fitoverm, etc.). The procedure must be repeated 3-4 times with an interval of 7-10 days.
Shchitovka
Another dangerous enemy of yucca is the scale insect. A tiny insect, similar to a small turtle, is generally mistaken by some for a growth on the leaves, since it is motionless. Having firmly attached itself to a leaf blade or cutting, the scale insect sucks out the juices of the plant. The first sign of a dangerous neighborhood is a sticky, shiny discharge.
Not only the scale insect itself harms the flower, but also the sticky substance. It clogs the pores of living tissue, creating favorable conditions for fungal infections.
The “shell” of the scale insect is so dense that it is difficult to kill it even with chemicals. First you need to remove adult individuals mechanically - with a swab moistened with a concentrated soap solution or vodka, clean the leaves and stems of brown “growths”. Remove the top layer of soil.
After this, treat the plant with an insecticide. As with mealybugs, repeat the procedure at least 3 times.
Spider mite
Spider mites can settle on weakened plants. First, light “grains” appear on the back of the sheet, and then a thin web appears.
To combat the pest, you will need an insecticide with an acaricidal effect - Fitoverm, Vertimek.
In addition to diseases and pests, there may be other reasons why yucca leaves turn yellow -.
To increase the plant’s resistance to stress, do not neglect feeding in the summer - a balanced diet will help build strong immunity. In winter, give the yucca a rest and gain strength for the new season. Proper care is the best disease prevention.
A video about caring for yucca will help you avoid many problems.
Every 2 years In summer no higher than 25, in winter no lower than 10-12 In summer - 2-3 times a week, in winter - once every 10 days Regularly, but not much Western and eastern window sills
Lighting
Yucca requires good lighting. The plant should be placed as close to the windows of the apartment as possible. But it is better to protect the plant from the influence of direct rays, especially on southern windows.
Windows facing west or east are optimal for yucca. If the lighting is insufficient, the leaves become depleted and thin shoots stretch towards the sun.
In summer, yucca can be placed on a terrace or balcony, shading the plant from hot sun rays.
If there is not enough natural light, the yucca will be comfortable even with.
To do this, fluorescent lamps are installed at a distance of approximately 60 cm above the yucca for about 16 hours a day.
– is expressed in the appearance of brown spots on the leaves, which gradually increase in size. The reason is high humidity, frequent spraying, excessive watering. Control measures include avoiding waterlogging of both soil and air, and removing diseased leaves.
Brown spot– small discolored spots appear on older leaves, which turn yellow over time and then turn brown.
If you do not respond in a timely manner, after 4 months fungal bodies form, which are visible upon visual inspection. The reason is excessive spraying. Control measures are to prevent moisture from getting on the leaves; at the slightest sign of disease, damaged leaves should be removed.
Leaf marginal necrosis– gray-brown spots on the edges of leaves. The reason is excess moisture getting on the leaves. Control measures are to prevent moisture from entering and remove diseased leaves immediately.
Fusarium rot– appears at the base of the leaves. The reason is excessive fertilizing, too wet substrate, high air humidity. Control measures: proper care, remove damaged leaves immediately.
White rot– damages the lower leaves, which become discolored, take on a watery appearance, become covered with a white coating, and large black formations appear on the stem.
Control measures - the correct care system. At the initial stages, remove damaged areas, treat the plant - remove the plant along with the pot and soil, treat the area with an antiseptic solution.
Reproduction
The most effective propagation method is cuttings from the top, which is cut with a sharp knife, dried for several hours and placed either in a jar of water or in a pot of wet sand. After the roots appear, the cuttings are transplanted into the earthen mixture.
When propagating yucca with a trunk, a positive result can be expected just as quickly. In the warm season, the trunk is cut into several parts (transversely), each of which should not be less than 20 cm.
The sawn parts of the yucca are placed in a moistened mixture of sand and peat, and left in the shade in the fresh air. After 2 months, roots will appear and the development of the young shoot will begin. You can plant yucca in a permanent pot.
The seed method of propagating yucca is the most labor-intensive and time-consuming. After sowing, the container requires careful care in compliance with temperature and humidity conditions. Shoots appear only after a month, but only after a year can the strengthened seedlings be considered a young plant.
You can read more about these and other methods of propagating yucca.
Transfer
Timely transplantation of yucca contributes to its good development; the procedure is carried out every two years. The plant safely tolerates transplantation at any time of the year, but it is recommended to do this in the spring.
The yucca root system is fragile and vulnerable, therefore the main difficulty when replanting is not to damage the roots. And the main goal is to increase the volume of the pot by filling it with new soil with nutritional properties.
It is important to choose the right pot for yucca, which should be several centimeters larger than the diameter of the plant’s root system. The bottom is covered with a layer of drainage, which can be expanded clay, pebbles or gravel. Then a layer of earth is poured, and an earthen ball with roots is installed in the center. After this, with delicate movements, the voids are filled with new soil and slightly compacted. Good watering completes the transplanting procedure.
Video
This beautiful perennial plant from the agave family can be grown at home with pleasure and without unnecessary hassle. It came to us from the USA, the Antilles and Mexico. Your task is to grow a healthy and strong palm tree under the sophisticated name Yucca to decorate the interior. Caring for it at home is not at all difficult, just follow a few rules. Let's look at the Yucca houseplant from all sides and analyze all its problems.
Types of Yucca palm
Let us describe the most famous varieties of indoor Yucca.
Elephant Yucca
Elephant Yucca is a common plant loved by many gardeners. Yucca elephantipes in its natural environment is a tall tree with a branched and thick stem. Indoor Yucca of this type stretches to a maximum of 1.5 meters. Leaf dimensions: 5-8 cm wide, 30-75 cm long. The leaves have sharp ends, narrow at the base, and are green.
Elephant YuccaAloe leaf Yucca
Aloe leaf Yucca is a perennial plant with an erect trunk. The apex has a rosette of sword-shaped foliage. The plant is colored olive green. The leaves of Yucca aloifolia, arranged in a spiral shape, are no more than 55 cm long.
Gray Yucca
Blue Yucca is a stemless plant with narrow linear leaves up to 70 cm in length. The foliage has a green-gray color and a light edging. The edges of the Yucca glauca leaf are decorated with twisted thin threads.
Filamentous Yucca
Filamentous Yucca is another subspecies of palm. This variety has virtually no stem. The root system is such that it grows in a horizontal plane. The roots lie quite deep, which is why Yucca filamentosa is resistant to low temperatures. The plant survives frosts down to minus 20 degrees. Green-gray, variegated white or green-yellow leaf is maximum 4 cm wide and 70 cm long. The leaves have a sharp top and natural decor in the form of fluffy white thin twisted threads.
There are other varieties of Yucca. Each has its own characteristic appearance and experienced gardeners can distinguish them. For example, there is also a street (garden) Yucca, it does not look like its brothers. Of the cultivated varieties, the most popular are Aloe-leaved and Elephant Yucca.
Home maintenance of Yucca palm
For convenience, we will divide the issue of planting and caring for the plant into points. Check out each of them and you will get a general idea of all the features.
How to water Yucca at home?
Basically, you need to wait for the top of the soil to dry out. It should be dried 5-6 cm deep. In summer, the plant is watered every 5-7 days. In the winter months, watering is reduced, moistening the soil after 10-12 days. To ensure comfort, you need to ensure that the soil does not dry out completely.
Lighting
The indoor palm tree loves diffused, intense lighting. A little direct sunlight is acceptable. But the plant can also take root in shady home conditions.
Humidity
A dry home microclimate is easily tolerated by the plant. You just need to wipe the dust on the foliage and spray the palm tree every week. During the winter season, when Yucca lives in a warm environment, you can spray it more often.
Fertilizer
Every gardener should know how to feed Yucca. During summer growth, liquid fertilizer must be applied every 14 days.
Earth
To make optimal soil yourself, take the following components in equal quantities:
- leaf soil;
- sand with large fractions;
- humus soil;
- peat;
- turf land.
It is also permissible to use another mixture:
- sand - 3 parts;
- leaf and turf soil - 1 part each.
Please keep in mind that the plant requires good drainage.
How to prune indoor Yucca?
When a palm tree becomes overly elongated, it needs proper pruning. If you trim the plant on time and correctly, it will begin to actively grow fresh foliage. Many shoots form right under the cut. The kidneys will wake up. When the trunk of the Yucca elephantipes variety is cut, no growth occurs, only the rosette grows.
As practice shows, after trimming the trunk of a palm tree, the stump does not lengthen and its thickness does not change. Only fresh shoots will grow and get fat. It is better to make a cut, retreating 50 cm from below. There is no need to prune a plant whose trunk is less than 5 cm thick. Otherwise, Yucca with a thin trunk will remain so. Due to the cut, the plant loses moisture. To ensure that pruning brings minimal discomfort to the plant, you can pour liquid paraffin onto the cut area. This approach allows you to protect the plant from dehydration.
Transplanting an indoor Yucca palm tree
Younger plants should only be replanted once a year. When the palm tree is 3-4 years old, you can refresh the top layer of soil.
Yucca palm growth
A domestic palm tree does not grow quickly, this is the norm. Speed - approximately 15-30 cm per year.
Yucca palm blossom
Every gardener would be interested to see how indoor Yucca blooms. It must be said about observations: at home this is a rather rare phenomenon. Plants at an honorable age can produce flowers in a greenhouse. Blooming Yucca is truly beautiful. Its flower is a strong vertical spikelet with large bells of a creamy white color.
Yucca Palm Reproduction
To have a whole garden of palm trees at home, you need to know how to propagate indoor Yucca quickly and painlessly.
Reproduction of a palm tree by parts of the trunk
Many people practice propagation of Yucca by trunk. It must be properly divided to produce several small palms instead of one large plant. To organize the propagation of Yucca using sections of the trunk stems, you need to cut it into pieces at least 10 cm long. Each resulting section from below must be treated with a root. The sections are rooted in a sand-peat mixture. Cover the top with polyethylene. You need to maintain a temperature of about 27 degrees. After 21 days, the bag should be removed.
You can also propagate the plant using the trunk like this: cut off the top, sprinkle the cut with coal chips, dry for 2 hours, and place in boiled water. When roots appear, plant a new plant in the ground.
Palm tree propagation by cuttings
Another popular method of propagation is vegetative propagation. Palm trees are planted using apical cuttings. The operation is performed in the spring, before growth is activated. You can also choose a time in March-August. The cut cuttings need to be dried for about 12 hours, they should be in the shade. There should be 2 leaves. The cutting must be inserted 4 cm into the perlite. It should stand upright. After a month, the cutting takes root. Optimal lighting is diffused, the brightest. A good temperature is 25-30 degrees, perlite should be moist. You will also have to additionally humidify the air by spraying.
Propagation by seeds
The seeds need to be prepared by destroying their shell for speedy growth. You can cut the skin with sandpaper. The seeds are sown in a light soil mix. This is a mixture of turf soil and leaf soil with sand. Depth of occurrence - 3 seed diameters. Place the container with the sown seeds in a warm place and keep it at 25-30 degrees, maintaining diffused bright lighting. Keep the soil moist for 10 days. Ventilate the seeds daily and remove condensation by wiping the glass or film. You have to wait a month to see shoots.
If the sprouts already have 2 leaves, then you can package them in disposable glasses, where the same soil is poured. A week later, fertilizing is done (a liter of water and 1 g of nitrophoska). After 2 weeks, repeat feeding. Next you need to wait until the palm tree has 4-5 leaves. Then the plant can be considered an adult and cared for as standard.
We looked at how to replant a Yucca shoot and grow new palms, but there are other simple methods. You can take a whole trunk and lay it horizontally on wet sand. If the temperature in the pot is kept at 20 degrees, then young roots and shoots will appear very soon. Requires moderate watering. Next, the trunk with shoots is divided into parts.
There is another interesting method - to propagate the plant using lateral shoots. They need to be grown by sticking them into a mixture of sand and peat. For good rooting, cover the shoots with polyethylene and maintain a temperature of 24 degrees.
Diseases of indoor Yucca
Description of palm pests and diseases
There are many insects that can damage a palm tree. For example, among them:
- thrips;
- caterpillars;
- spider mites;
- scale insects;
- aphids and the like.
The main mistake that can cause infection is overwatering. To revive a palm tree, it is enough to remove the cause that provokes a decrease in natural protection, and also urgently treat the plant using commercial insecticidal preparations. They are used strictly according to the instructions.
Name of the most common Yucca diseases:
- stem rot;
- botrytis mushroom;
- bacterial burn;
- brown spotting;
- gray spotting;
- root rot.
Treating Yucca palm diseases can be difficult, so it's best to put efforts into prevention. It is often recommended to immediately destroy diseased plants without wasting time on their restoration. The absence of problems is a sign of proper care. Under good conditions, the likelihood of disease occurring is almost zero.
Yucca trunk is rotting
Due to oversaturation with moisture, the lower part of the stem often rots. If the plant is affected by stem rot, then the entire trunk becomes soft and covered with red ulcers. Treatment is impossible; usually the palm tree is destroyed.
White spots on Yucca
Light spots can appear on the foliage from too much light. If white mycelium is visible on the stem or adjacent soil, this is a symptom of bacterial burn. These are fluffy small formations of white color. Then they become hard and dark brown. Correct agricultural technology is the only preventive method.
Why do Yucca leaves turn yellow and dry?
It has been noticed that as the palm tree grows older, it naturally gets rid of its leaves from below. This manifests itself in the fact that the lower leaves turn yellow. This yellowness is normal. The fact is that there are also painful spots - they are initially yellow oval. Then they change. After the yellow ones, you can see brown spots on the Yucca and this indicates brown spotting. To cure a plant from brown spots, you need to use purchased products, but first you will have to organize care. Many people are interested in why leaves turn yellow in winter. This is due to frequent watering, which the plant does not require at this time of year.
There is also a problem: the leaves of the Yucca palm dry only at the bottom of the plant. Apparently she's going to dump them. In most cases this is the norm. You need to think about why indoor Yucca is drying out if the leaves above are also suffering, since this may be a sign of a lack of lighting and a too hot climate. Dryness may occur along with yellowness. When dryness affects only the leaves at the tips, you should increase the humidity of the palm's environment, as well as adjust the care in general.
Falling leaves
The only normal thing is that the leaves fall at the very bottom. When a plant loses other foliage, it indicates improper moisture conditions. We advise you to review the watering schedule and eliminate errors. If the roots are not dead, then the plant can be brought back to life.
No flowering
The palm tree usually does not bloom in apartment conditions, just as certain species of animals refuse to give birth to captive conditions. Flowering can be achieved if Yucca is grown in ideal conditions, where everything is calculated to the smallest detail. All surrounding data should be as close to nature as possible. Then, perhaps, the palm tree will give its owner flowers - wonderful panicles with bells.
So, let's summarize. Indoor Yucca loves temperatures from 8 to 20 degrees and grows comfortably in bright light and moderate watering. Prefers high air humidity and light, well-drained soil. We feed the palm tree in spring and summer, replant overgrown specimens, and propagate by stem cuttings. Flowering occurs rarely, so you can’t count on this miracle at home. That's all we wanted to tell you about the home palm tree, grow it for your health, it is very aesthetic and looks exotic in the apartment.
Brown leaf tips with a yellow halo. The reason is too frequent watering.
The leaves are wilting, the woody stem is moving in the pot, the soil has an unpleasant odor. The reason is too frequent watering: often in combination with low temperature of the contents and/or low temperature of the water used for irrigation.
The leaves lose their elasticity, first turn yellow, then turn brown. The reason is too infrequent watering.
Yellow spots appear on the leaves, which turn brown over time, and the plant tissue dries out in the affected areas. The reason is too high light intensity, usually in combination with high temperature.
If violations in maintenance are eliminated, yucca restores its decorative properties within several months.
Diseases of infectious origin - caused by bacteria or fungi
If we identify the symptoms listed below, we take preventive measures. If they do not lead to the desired result, then we dispose of the yucca along with the soil and pot.
1) Coniothyrium or brown leaf spot (Coniothyrium concentricum).
Symptoms: Affected leaves turn yellow and finally turn brown as the disease progresses. Affected areas are usually elliptical and scattered over the entire upper surface of the leaves.
Preventive measures: removing old affected leaves and eliminating the fact of their moistening (spraying, precipitation). As a preventative measure, it is possible to use systemic fungicides.
2) Cytosporina or gray leaf spot (Cytosporina).
Symptoms include punctate and marginal necrosis with a predominant gray color and brown margins around the damaged parts. The lesions appear as concentric rings of light and dark tissue. The disease is most common on older leaves.
Disease prevention: avoid spraying the plant; preventive treatment with systemic fungicides, for example Fundazol.
3) Fusarium stem rot (Fusarium spp).
Symptoms: The trunk softens and bright red ulcers appear on it.
There is no treatment - the plant is destroyed.
4) Fire blight (Sclerotium rolfsii).
The pathogen affects all parts of the plant, but most often lesions are found on the stems. White mycelium can be seen on the surface of the soil or stems. Round sclerotia form in almost any part of the plant or on the soil surface. Sclerotia are initially white and fluffy, approximately the size of a mustard seed. Once ripe, they become dark brown in color and harden.
The method of prevention is correct agricultural technology.
5) Root rot.
The causative agent is Aspergillus.
Symptoms: Watery spots appear on the roots. The outer layer of roots may survive, but the inner tissues quickly disintegrate. Spots covered with black-brown spores appear on the leaf blade. Infection with the pathogen usually occurs during transportation of planting material.
There is no treatment. Disease prevention: when planting, use only sterilized soil mixtures; follow the recommended watering frequency; the soil mixture must have good draining properties.
6) Bacterial rot.
The causative agent is Erwinia carotovora.
Symptoms: soft rot of the lower part of the plant. Sometimes the plants have a fishy, rotten odor, characteristic of Erwinia infection.
Prevention methods: avoid spraying leaves; For propagation, use uninfected planting material.
There is no treatment: if the plant is infected, it is disposed of.
Yucca pests
Caterpillars, mealybugs, leaf-eating beetles, aphids, thrips, scale insects, false scale insects, herbivorous mites. Methods and methods of control are described in detail in the “Pests” section.
Yucca is a popular plant among gardeners; it will be the first in your collection of home flowers. Easy to grow, unpretentious and has an attractive appearance, similar to a palm tree. However, incorrectly chosen conditions or an attack by pests also lead to the loss of the plant’s appearance - the leaves begin to turn yellow and dry out.
A common cause of yellowing is improperly selected conditions of detention. Yucca is photophilous, but direct sunlight causes burns. Helping the plant is changing its permanent location.
The plants also get stressed after transplantation. Rough replanting with damage to the root system leads to the dropping of the lower leaves. Yucca needs peace; 4 days in a dark place will help it cope with stress.
At this time, you need to maintain moderate watering, the root system does not absorb excess moisture. A good drainage system and light soil will help survive the stress of replanting.
Often yucca new place is not suitable. Slow growth and yellowness indicate an incorrectly chosen location for the plant. Rearrange and observe whether the appearance and speed of new leaves improves.
In the autumn-winter period, you need to remain calm: reduce watering, put it in a cooler place, but no less lit. In this case, the yucca will gain new strength and will actively grow in the spring.
Lack or excess of moisture, lighting, pests are the main factors affecting the growth and appearance of the plant.
Also, do not forget about natural shedding - this is a self-rejuvenation mechanism inherent in nature. The leaves live for two years and then die.
Waterlogging of the soil
Yucca has a well-developed ground part, but the roots are less developed. Abundant, frequent watering leads to rotting of the root system and the trunk of the plant. Watering is carried out with settled water at room temperature.
Light-colored, flaccid leaves at the base indicate that the substrate is over-moistened; water the yucca less.
Yellowed ones, on which brown spots appear, are also a symptom of waterlogging of the soil.
It is necessary to dry the soil and loosen the top layer of soil. If this is not enough, replanting the plant will help.
During transplantation, the roots are treated with a fungicide solution. Disinfection will help cope with the fungus.
Brown spots on the leaves are definitely a fungal infection. Yellowed ones must be removed or cut back to healthy tissue. If the yucca's shoots have darkened, the plant cannot be saved; the root system and trunk have completely rotted.
Transplantation is carried out in a pot with a thick layer of drainage and large drainage holes. Rotten roots are cut off with a disinfected knife. The sections are treated with root growth stimulants. In case of severe damage, the plant is placed in water until roots form and then planted in the ground.
Low air humidity
Hot dry air, especially in winter, when streams of hot air rise from the radiators and the air is dry, makes the yucca fold its leaves into a tube, the ends dry out.
Yucca grows naturally in Mexico, Central America, and the southern parts of the United States in arid, warm climates. Low humidity is not a strong irritant, but in winter dry air is harmful, which is why additional humidification with a spray or steam humidifier is required.
Lack of lighting at home
Light leaves, almost white at the base, the plant stretches upward - obvious lack of lighting. If this happens in the autumn-winter period, the yucca needs to be additionally illuminated with fluorescent lamps.
On a north window, an adult yucca suffers from a lack of light, this will lead to loss of appearance.
Small specimens feel good on all window sills. Yucca will feel good on a south or east window, but direct sunlight should be avoided. If the plant is mature, you can place the pot on the floor or on a special stand, then it will receive diffused lighting without the risk of foliage burns.
Soil drying out
Withered leaves that have lost their elasticity, signal a lack of moisture. After watering, the leaves become elastic again and do not turn yellow. A systematic lack of water leads to shedding of leaves and drying out of the root system. It is necessary to increase watering, the top layer of soil should dry out between waterings.
How to save yucca from pests
Daily inspection of the plant for insect damage will allow you to begin pest control in a timely manner. Slow growth, yellow leaves or sticky coating indicate pest infestation.
Two pests that often attack yucca are spider mites and false scale insects. The first appears in rooms with dry air, more often it appears among residents of the first floors; spider mites, along with street dust, move to indoor plants.
If there is a large crowd of potted plants, everyone will be in the affected area. Control: treatment with insecticides and washing in the shower. The top layer of soil is replaced with a new one. Prevention - increasing air humidity.
False shield sucks out the juices, the fight against it will last for a couple of months, since one treatment will not be enough. False scale insects must be removed using a solution of water and laundry soap with a cotton swab or brush, depending on the pest infestation and the hardness of the leaf, or each scale insect must be removed manually.
Shields hide in parts that are difficult for the eye to reach; a week after the first treatment, re-treatment is carried out. The top layer of soil is replaced with a new one and treated with an insecticide. You can turn to traditional medicine and treat the plant with garlic tincture.
The main thing is that treatment should be done as new pests appear until complete destruction. The sticky coating left by the false scale insect is covered with sooty fungus. It causes darkening and rotting of leaves.
If pests are detected, treatment is carried out as quickly as possible. The pest carries diseases that spread quickly.
What to do for fungal leaf diseases
Overmoistening of the root system or general hypothermia leads to fungal infections. Dark spots on the leaves are a fungal disease caused by high humidity and excessive watering.
Changing the watering schedule and permanent location of the yucca will help combat the fungus. Diseased leaves are removed.
Another fungus that attacks the trunk causes stem rot. In the first stages, the fungus may not be noticed; in advanced cases, rot is detected too late, when the stem is affected, and inside it is filled with rot.
If the rot has not yet spread to the entire trunk, then the plant is cut back to healthy tissue and rooted. In advanced cases, it is disposed of along with the pot so that healthy people do not become infected.
Prevention is in the correct selection of soil. Fine expanded clay, sand and coconut shavings should become faithful companions of the new soil; the soil will become softer and airier. Watering is moderate; between waterings the top layer of mail should dry completely.
Yucca is and remains a plant that does not require constant control. The right location is the key to active and healthy growth. Caring for and periodic spraying, moderate soil moisture and fertilization will have a positive effect on the appearance.