Electric kettle: principle of operation. How an electric kettle works Repairing an electric kettle at home

If the kettle button does not work or works but not properly, then such a circumstance can seriously overshadow even the most beautiful morning. It's hard to start the day without a cup of hot coffee or tea. But these are lyrics...

So, to put it simply, the kettle button is a thermostat. Those. an element of an electrical circuit that is responsible for closing/opening this electrical circuit according to certain thermal (temperature) indicators. In the case of a kettle, the circuit is closed forcibly by pressing a button (the kettle turns on), and the circuit is opened as a result of the influence of hot steam on the thermostat (the kettle turns off).

Thermostat malfunction can be expressed in the following types:

The kettle does not turn on. Most likely the thermostat has become unusable. Repairing the kettle in this case is carried out by replacing the thermostat with a new one.
The kettle does not turn off. It is necessary to disassemble the kettle and inspect the thermostat. Depending on the condition of the latter, the kettle is repaired by cleaning the contact groups of the thermostat or (in more severe cases) by replacing it.
The kettle turns off after several attempts to boil the water. In this case, the repair consists of cleaning the thermostat contacts.

In any case, to solve any of the above problems, you will need to disassemble the kettle and remove the thermostat. For repairs, we will need the following tools: a Phillips or flat screwdriver (depending on the screws screwed into the kettle) and a voltage tester.

To get to the cause of the breakdown (the thermostat), you need to unscrew the handle from the kettle itself. We remove the cover from the handle, which is attached to latches or a screw. You need to be extremely careful and careful not to damage the outside of the kettle.

This is where the button (thermostat) that we need is located. It is worth noting that a fairly large current flows through the contacts, namely 1500-2000W, depending on the characteristics of a particular model. This leads to frequent burnout of the contacts, which leads to a malfunction of the device, which results in the kettle button not working. Now you need to disassemble the thermostat to get to the contacts. This must be done carefully!

To disassemble the button, you need to move the upper part to the left and lift it a little. Then remove the top part. As you can see, in this case the contacts are completely burned out...

A very necessary and convenient device is an electric kettle. At home, at work, or wherever you are, as long as you have a power outlet, it will help you prepare an invigorating hot drink.
But no kettle can work forever, so there comes a time when they break, which can be very upsetting. Sometimes there is no need to buy a new expensive device; it is enough to make a little effort and perhaps the breakdown can be fixed.
This article will discuss one of the main breakdowns of an electric kettle and how to fix it.

First you need to be patient and have the tools shown in the photo.

As practice shows, most often the heater or the device's power button fails. Therefore, the search for breakdowns will be aimed specifically at these nodes.
So, let's start by disassembling the case. To do this, you need to unscrew the fastening screws at the bottom of the kettle.

As you can see in the photo, we unscrew the three screws closer to the center, the outer holes - where the finger points - do not have screws, they are intended for ventilation.

We put the screws in one place so as not to lose them, and remove the pallet. Here you will see the heater, indicator lamp and wires going through the handle to the switch.

First, we check the integrity of the heating element (heater) for a break. To do this, we connect a voltage indicator, or any other testing device, to the heater terminals.

If it shows a chain, then it is intact and you can continue searching for the breakdown further.
Now you need to get to the switch on the handle. To do this, remove the upper handle casing. This can be done by prying a screwdriver at the junction of the two parts of the handle.

You can also hold the kettle vertically and tilt the tray down and remove the handle latch from the lower socket.

Now, pulling the casing with your hands, we release it from the latches.

When it is completely removed, you will see two wires going to the power button.

Unscrew the screw securing the button and remove it.

Here you see a bimetallic plate that is responsible for turning off the kettle during boiling. There is no need to touch her.

Next, disconnect the wires from the button so that they do not interfere with you. The connection is made on connectors, so it will not be difficult to disconnect them by pulling them towards you.

Now we look at the contacts of the button and we can see that they are pretty burnt.

This makes contact and, accordingly, the operation of the kettle itself difficult. To make it easier to work with contacts, you can remove the top part of the button.

Using a knife or a thin file, we clean the upper and lower contacts. This must be done carefully so as not to bend or break one of them. This is especially true for the lower one, since it has a springy structure that cannot be disturbed.

When the grinding is done, use pliers to slightly press the upper fixed contact. Be careful not to bend it too much. Otherwise it will not open. The displacement should be approximately 1mm.

We're done with that, now let's clean the terminals on the button.

For better contact, you should also slightly bend the connectors on the wires with pliers.
We check the result of the button's operation by dialing. In the on state there should be reliable contact, and in the off state there should be no contact.

Details: DIY kettle repair is not included from a real master for the website website.

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In this article we will analyze in detail troubleshooting methods And electric kettle repair with common malfunctions like “ doesn't boil" or " won't turn on“. Most teapots in the price category up to 3 – 5 thousand rubles are most likely made in China. Therefore, their reliability, as a rule, is at an appropriate level.

The electric kettle, the repair of which will be described below in the article, worked for about 11 months and failed. People often think that if kettle won't turn on, Means, heating element burned out(heating element) and the kettle can be thrown away, especially if it also turns out to be a disk one. Spiral heating element It was still possible to replace it if the reason lay in a faulty heating element, but now such kettles are quite rare.

So, if your kettle suddenly stops turning on and its warranty period has expired, then you can safely begin diagnosing the malfunction of the electric kettle. Electric kettle malfunctions There are different ones, we will consider here purely electrical faults, that is, we do not consider here mechanical repairs of a broken part of the kettle structure, all kinds of water leaks, and similar faults of a non-electrical nature.

What do you need to repair an electric kettle?

We need the following tools: a Phillips or flat screwdriver (depending on the type of screws) and a multimeter (tester).

Let's start repairing the electric kettle

The first thing you need to do is make sure that there really is 220 volts in the household electrical network. It’s stupid and trivial at first glance, but this is one of the troubleshooting algorithms. How to determine. It is enough to plug another electrical device into the outlet and check the voltage in the outlet. This is not particularly difficult.
Next you need to ring the electric kettle stand using a tester. We take the tester and ring the circuit one by one from the electrical plug and the socket on the kettle stand. On the stand in the socket you may have 3 conductors, the third is ground, in my case this protective ground electrically connects the body of the kettle and the side (ground) terminal on the Euro plug. We check the presence of the circuit with a multimeter and the absence of signs of carbon deposits on the contacts. If the circuit in the stand is not broken (which is rare) and there is no carbon deposits, you can proceed to disassembling the electric kettle. Although it would be more correct to immediately measure the resistance on the kettle itself, I believe that the operation performed will not be superfluous and will not take much of your time.

No video.

If everything is in order with the stand for the electric kettle, then, therefore, malfunction lies in the kettle itself. Here it is appropriate to ring the chain again from the side of the kettle without disassembling it, although it was possible to immediately start ringing from the kettle itself. We take a multimeter and measure the resistance of the current-carrying contacts. If the device (multimeter) shows infinity, in other words, an open circuit, proceed to disassembling the kettle.

Unscrew the three screws on the bottom cover. There may be 6 screws, it all depends on the specific model of the kettle.

After disassembling the electric kettle immediately let's check, does it work? heating element, to do this, measure its resistance using a tester (multimeter). The multimeter shows a value of 172 Ohms, this is in my case, you may have other values, which tells us about serviceability heating element. If you have infinite resistance, then you're out of luck, The heating element burned out And out of order. The disk heating element cannot be replaced, the spiral heating element can still be changed, it is available on sale. So the heating element is working, let's move on.

Let's try to figure out now what goes where. Two red wires parallel to the heating element provide power to the neon light bulb, which signals that the kettle is turned on. This entire circuit (white wires) goes into the handle of the kettle, where the switch and at the same time the thermostat are located. Since the heating element, as we have seen above, is working properly, and the kettle itself did not turn on, then with a high degree of probability faulty this one electric kettle switch. In order to get to the switch you need to disassemble the handle of the electric kettle.

You need to remove the cover from the kettle handle, which is attached with a screw and latches. Behind this overlay is located switch or otherwise they call it thermostat for electric kettle.

Thermostat for kettle, serves to turn the electric kettle on and off when it boils. Due to the fact that quite a large current flows through these contacts (10A or 2000 W), then contacts here most often get burned. It is enough to ring it with a tester to check whether the switch is working or not.

The switch in our case is faulty, let's try to carefully disassemble it to get to the contacts. To do this, move the upper part of the switch to the left and lift it up. Remove the top part of the switch and put it aside.

Having completely disassembled kettle switch, we see carbon deposits on contacts. In the photo, the bottom contact is raised up for clarity.

Carbon deposits on the contacts of the electric kettle switch, the most common malfunction encountered during electric kettle repair. For removing carbon deposits on contacts switch, you need to clean the contacts using a file or a woman's nail file. After cleaning, you need to immediately ring the circuit with a tester; if a circuit appears, reassemble the switch and kettle in the reverse order.

Sometimes contacts in the switch for a teapot burn out completely, in this case you can try buy a thermostat for a kettle on the Internet, the price is about 200 rubles (excluding delivery costs). If I were buying a thermostat for a kettle, I would buy it here, with free shipping to boot.

The electric kettle was invented in 1900 by the American engineer Whitcomb, when electricity was not yet available everywhere. Contemporaries did not take the invention seriously, considering it an eccentricity. However, over more than 100 years, the electric kettle has turned from an eccentricity into an indispensable attribute of any kitchen. Even if there is gas in the house, they still use an electric kettle. It boils water much faster; there is no need to stand around it, waiting for the moment when it needs to be turned off. From the point of view of energy saving, it also looks much more progressive than its “copper” ancestor. Not a single kilocalorie created by a heating device is wasted, which cannot be said about a gas burner, which, while boiling water, heats the surrounding air by 40%. But sometimes there is a need to repair this miracle of technology.

Design and principle of operation of an electric kettle

The circuit diagram of an electric kettle is quite simple. It is a sealed container, inside of which a heating device is mounted - a heating element (thermal electric heater). Inside the heating element there is a tungsten spiral, which heats up when it is connected to the electrical network.

For ease of use, the kettle is equipped with:

manual switch button located on the body
automatic power switch

Using a manual button, the kettle starts working; using an automatic switch, its operation stops (although it is also possible to do this manually).

Using the example of a device with a spiral heating element

The power button is a regular toggle switch that switches a contact pair from one mode to another.

The operation of the circuit breaker is to de-energize the device when the water reaches boiling temperature. This is achieved by installing a thermocouple in the path of water vapor, which drives the rod that controls the supply of power from the network. The thermostat is a bimetallic plate that, when heated, changes its geometric shape in a certain way.

Most modern electric kettles are equipped with additional “conveniences” - illumination of the power button (additional signaling of the device’s operation), illumination of the water inside the flask (scale is clearly visible, allowing it to be removed in a timely manner). Some have timers, thanks to which you can regulate the degree of heating of the water without bringing it to a boil. And also set the time for turning on the kettle.

The body of the electric kettle is made from various materials: glass, plastic, metal. There are exotic models in which the flask is made of rock crystal and the heating disk is silver.

Case types in the photo

Plastic housing Glass body Metal body

The glass used is thin-walled, of increased strength and heat resistance. However, it is not recommended to test its strength and drop it on the floor again.

Plastic cases are made from food-grade plastic; the vast majority of inexpensive teapots are plastic. However, this material has a number of disadvantages that negatively affect its reputation. For example, the ability to emit unpleasant odors during heating or to melt if the thermostat suddenly fails.

The most practical are electric kettles that are made of metal. As practice has shown, it is metal cases that best withstand the test of time.

There are also combined models where plastic, glass and metal are combined.

In order to seal the cracked plastic body of an electric kettle, you need to dilute food-grade plastic shavings with dichloroethane to the state of “liquid sour cream”. Clean the crack, degrease, and dry. Use the resulting solution to carefully “putty” the damaged area. Allow to dry for up to 24 hours. You cannot use other adhesives, including epoxy resin, since when the kettle heats up they will release carcinogenic substances into the water. Dichloroethane completely evaporates after 24 hours.

Depending on the design features, breakdowns of electric kettles can be divided into two unequal segments.

In the first, most numerous, there will be problems in the electrical part of this popular household appliance.

In the second, relatively minor, mechanical damage will remain, mostly due to negligence or during improper use.

The mechanics of the kettle are simple; in fact, it consists of a lid that is fixed on the top of the body and a locking mechanism that keeps the lid closed.

Sometimes the lid is capricious and does not want to close or open properly. Then you need to treat it with attention - examine it, identify the cause of this behavior and eliminate it.

As a rule, the involvement of specialists in such a situation is not required. You can solve the problem yourself.

The situation is completely different with the electrical part of the kettle. After all, it is she who does all the main work, and the main load lies on the heating element and thermostat.

There are two types of heating device - disk and spiral. The first is mounted in the bottom of the flask with water, the second is attached to one of the walls of the body. Judging by the offer of electric kettles on store shelves, the disk heating element is gradually replacing the spiral one. This is due to the higher efficiency of disk heating elements, as well as operational advantages.

For example, it is very difficult to wash and descale the inside of a kettle equipped with a spiral heater.

The thermostat, in principle, is an eternal part; nothing can break in it, since it is a plate pressed from two different metals. However, sometimes it fails. More precisely, the mechanical drive by which it controls the kettle's switch button breaks down.

Thermostat block

What kind of damage can the kettle be returned to the seller?

If the purchased product does not meet the declared quality or malfunctions in its mechanisms are identified during operation, according to the Law on the Protection of Consumer Rights, the product can be returned to the seller and get a refund. To do this, certain conditions must be met.

- the kettle has not been used, the appearance, factory seals and labels, as well as the presentation remained completely intact
- availability of a sales receipt or other document evidencing the purchase (in the absence of such documents, it is possible to refer to the testimony of witnesses)
- on the day of contact there is no similar replacement product available for sale
- satisfaction of the request for the return of money must occur no later than 10 days from the date of presentation
- you must have a civil passport with you to draw up an act of returning the kettle.

If the purchased kettle is under warranty, its repair can only be carried out in warranty workshops, the list of which is given in the warranty card. Independent disassembly of the device and an attempt to eliminate the malfunction entails termination of the manufacturer’s warranty obligations.

A simple conclusion follows from this. It makes more sense to use the warranty than to try to fix the kettle yourself. There is no point in hoping that the workshop will “not notice” any traces of an autopsy. For a professional who repairs household appliances every day and for many years, one glance is enough to determine whether the kettle has been disassembled or not. In addition, there are various tricks on the part of the manufacturer that are aimed at avoiding such situations. They are not visible to the eye, but are clear enough to be used to determine (and prove) the fact of unauthorized disassembly.

All defective goods are subject to return or exchange, at the request of the buyer. The only exceptions may be complex technical goods that are subject to examination for manufacturing or warehouse defects. The teapot, of course, does not fall into this category.

If controversial issues arise, the seller is obliged to conduct an expert examination of the goods at his own expense. The buyer has the right to be present during the examination. If, as a result of the examination, it is proven that the teapot (or other product) is defective due to the fault of the buyer, then he will be obliged to reimburse all expenses for the examination.

Diagnose electrical problems

In order to diagnose the electric circuit of the kettle, you need to use a multimeter (or tester).

The inspection, as a rule, starts from the point where the power cable is connected to the outlet and ends at the thermostat. In order to consistently take measurements on all sections of the chain, it is necessary to disassemble the kettle body.

But first you need to make sure that the power cord and the outlet it connects to are in good working order. And also check the presence of voltage on the stand under the kettle, through which the current is transmitted to the heating element.

If no open circuit is detected, unscrew the three screws at the bottom of the kettle and remove the protective cover. Often, in addition to screws, the cover is additionally secured with plastic latches, like on a mobile phone. Therefore, it is advisable to have a thin and flat screwdriver in order to release the plastic locks. Sometimes the screws are closed on top with decorative plugs, which need to be carefully removed with a thin screwdriver.

Removing the Bottom Cover Disassembling the handle

If the screws cannot be removed from the plastic case, the most effective way to solve this problem is to touch them with a heated soldering iron. The plastic will soften slightly and release the clamped screw.

After removing the cover, a visual inspection of the disk heater is carried out, as well as the contacts supplying electric current to it. The surface of the contacts should not be melted or covered with metal scale. A properly functioning contact looks uniform, without purple spots, which indicate overheating.

If there are no obvious signs of damage to the circuit, the contact group and the heating device are tested with a multimeter. The resistance of a working heating element is approximately 30–40 Ohms. Readings taken from a damaged heater (no resistance, the tester shows an “infinity” symbol) will indicate an open circuit. In this case, it needs to be replaced.

Checking the heater operation

It is also worth checking the operation of the resistance associated with the LEDs. Their operating range is 13–15 ohms. If the ohmmeter gives different readings, the resistor should be replaced.

To further test the kettle's power supply circuit, you need to dismantle the handle in which the temperature sensor (or temperature sensors), the manual switch button and the automatic shut-off unit are located.

The handle cover is secured either with screws or plastic snap-locks. Vapors from boiling water constantly circulate inside the handle, and this creates favorable conditions for metal corrosion.

After a thorough inspection, all elements are additionally tested with a multimeter. The terminals are cleaned with sandpaper or a file. The broken wires are restored.

Damaged parts are usually simply replaced. There is a wide range of spare parts for electric kettles on sale, their prices are completely affordable. The main thing is to ensure that they exactly match the model of the device being repaired.

How to fix an electric kettle with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

Let's consider solutions to the following problems that are most often encountered in practice.

If it leaks

There are two possible reasons. One - mechanical damage to the housing occurred. The second is that the rubber gasket located between the body and the heating element has malfunctioned. In the first case, the kettle flask is repaired, if possible. In the second, the gasket is changed.

Sometimes, to eliminate a leak, it is enough to tighten the screws securing the spiral heater so that the rubber gasket seals. But if not, then the spiral is disconnected, the old gasket is removed and a new one is installed.

To replace, you need to disconnect the heating element

You should pay attention to the condition of the old gasket. If the reason for its failure is a thick layer of scale, then from now on it is necessary to clean the interior of the container more often from the formation of water stone. Otherwise, the new rubber band will face the same fate.

The most famous way to descale a kettle is with citric acid. Add a packet of citric acid to half a liter of water and boil with the lid open. If necessary, the procedure can be repeated several times, alternating with pauses for the kettle to cool (about half an hour).

But there are other ways. Instead of citric acid, you can use vinegar (200 grams per 100 grams of water), as well as Coca-Cola and even potato peelings.

You should not get carried away with synthetic detergents. If even milligrams of these substances remain on the walls of the kettle, then once inside the body, they will cause harm to well-being and health in general.

In kettles with disk heaters, leaks are eliminated in a similar way.

If the kettle model is collapsible (which is not always the case), as a means of preventing leaks, you can clean the silicone gasket from water stone. Having disconnected the housing from the heater, you can remove the gasket and rinse it with ordinary clean water, and use a soft brush to remove fine sand, which, in fact, breaks the seal. It is also recommended to thoroughly clean the heater itself, as well as the inner surface of the kettle body. After this, the gasket is installed in its place and the device is assembled to its original state.

A clean and flexible gasket can last for a long time if you regularly monitor its condition and prevent fossils on the surface.

How to fix a leak and clean the gasket at home: video

Kogad does not turn off when boiling

The thermostat is malfunctioning. The housing handle should be disassembled and the regulator replaced. It makes no sense to repair such parts, because it will take a lot of time, and it is not known how long it will last.

Cannot be repaired at home

When disassembling, you need to inspect the thermostat drive rod, which sometimes breaks. And a spring supporting the bimetallic thermocouple. If this is the case, then you can temporarily replace them using scrap material.

Shuts down prematurely

A similar situation is a malfunction of the thermostat. The kettle handle cover is removed and the damaged thermostat is removed. A new one is installed in its place, and the circuit contacts are connected. Before final assembly, it is tested again using a multimeter.

One of the reasons for the malfunction of the thermostat may be premature drying of the thermal paste at the point of contact between the temperature sensor and the heater. This can be determined visually and tactilely. If the thermal paste has become dry, brittle, or lost elasticity, then it’s time to change it. Usually this happens no earlier than after 2 years of operation. Replacing thermal paste is not a complicated procedure (remove the old one with a napkin and apply a new one). It serves to improve thermal conductivity and eliminate air space between the heating disk of the kettle and the temperature sensor. You can buy it in stores that sell computer accessories.

How to replace thermal paste (video)

Doesn't turn on

Consistently, as described above, diagnose the electrical circuit of the entire device. If a break in the power supply is detected, replace the damaged part and clean the terminals with emery.

Doesn't heat the water even though the light is on

The most likely failure is the electric heating device. Or oxidation of contacts responsible for its nutrition. To solve the problem, you need to remove the bottom cover of the kettle, carry out diagnostics and, based on the results, eliminate the cause of the malfunction.

The electric kettle button does not lock

Quite a common occurrence. Usually due to the fact that during long-term operation, the steel spring that fixes the position of the switch bursts or falls out of its seat. In order to repair the button, you will first have to remove the handle cover and gain access to the button mechanism. Then the button housing assembly is detached. If the spring turns out to be intact and just needs to be inserted into the socket, then replacement may not be necessary. Perhaps, to restore functionality, it will be enough to slightly stretch it to restore its former elasticity.

Repair stages in the photo

Removing the protective cover Can be dismantled after removing the handle cover Spring fixing the button

The kettle's spiral cracks when heated

A clear sign that the level of scale on the coil is approaching a critical state. If you let the formation of waterstone take its course, there is a high probability that the coil will quickly fail and will have to be replaced.

As soon as the first signs of cracking appear, even the smallest ones, it is necessary to urgently take measures to remove scale from the walls of the kettle and, especially, from the heating element.

Replacement of disk and spiral heater

If the kettle diagnostics showed that the heating element has failed, it must be replaced, since it cannot be repaired.

The spiral heater is usually held in the housing by 3 screws that need to be unscrewed. Next, the spiral is freed from the terminals connected to it and carefully removed from the housing. Along with the heater, it is advisable to change the rubber gasket, which prevents water from leaking out of the flask. Assembly is carried out in reverse order.

Fastened with ordinary screws through a rubber gasket

Step-by-step instructions for replacing the heating element: video

Things are not so simple with kettles equipped with disc heaters. Disassembly and replacement of the heating element in such devices is not provided by the manufacturer. The heater disk itself is soldered into the housing and is an indivisible whole with it. In addition, even if you remove it from the kettle, it is almost impossible to buy a replacement. They are not on sale.

Repairing a device with a disk heater (video)

Such teapots require more careful care. Because if the heater breaks down, it has only one way - to the landfill or, at best, to spare parts. You need to be especially careful about the formation of scale and clean it in a timely manner.

To do this, you should follow simple rules.

do not pour water out of the kettle as soon as it boils

The heater disk has a temperature much higher than the boiling point of water. If water is poured out immediately, microcracks may form on the disc due to overheating. Over time, this leads to the destruction of the heating element material.

monitor scale formation

It is scale that, like stalactites, grows inside the kettle and destroys the silicone gasket between the kettle body and the heater, breaking the tightness of their connection.

use purified water

The reason for scale formation is the high salt content in the water. If the water is filtered and has undergone a purification process, much less scale will form.

How to connect an electric kettle directly to the network

There are situations when there is no time to repair or replace a particular part. As a temporary measure, you can connect the kettle to the network directly. To do this, you need to open the bottom cover of the housing and connect the power cord directly to the heater terminals. This way the kettle will operate completely manually, bypassing all automatic switches.

The power cord is connected directly to the heating element

Plugging the plug into the socket will start it, and turning it off will stop it. It is necessary to be close to such a device in order to turn off the power in time when the water boils.

Additional video

A kettle is a container with a heating element for boiling water. Previously, samovars with electric water heating were produced. Samovars were made of metal and were relatively expensive. With the development of plastic foundry production, teapots in plastic cases began to be produced.

The quality of the plastic is very important. Cheap kettles use bad plastic and if you smell the kettle, you can clearly hear a very nasty smell. If you boil water in such a kettle, the water also acquires the aroma of the kettle. Of course, the most harmless are stainless steel teapots.

Kettles differ in types of heating elements. In my opinion, the best kettle is with a flat heating element. For such a kettle, it doesn’t matter how much water you pour into it - the water will in any case cover the bottom, and therefore the surface area of the heating element. The bodies of all teapots are approximately the same.

The kettle stand is a round button in which the contacts are located. The kettle presses the button, the middle ring lowers, releasing two contacts that are pressed against the slip rings on the kettle itself. The central rod is grounding and serves for precise installation of the kettle.

Repairs begin with checking the entire circuit. The tester is placed on the resistance and rings from the plug side. In this case, the kettle power button should be in the “ON” position. If the kettle is working properly, the resistance should be 27 Ohms for a kettle P=2 kW and 67 Ohms for a kettle P=900 W.

If there is no resistance, then it makes sense to ring the kettle itself without a contact plate. To do this, you need to become a tester for contact plates on both sides of the circle.

If the resistance is very high, then you need to remove the lid and look at the contacts inside the kettle. At the bottom there is a heating element and a contact plate. No blocking or protection here. You need to ring the heating element itself. Kettle P=2 kW and resistance 27 Ohm. Ten is fine.

The contact plate is a plug with a socket. If you pull it towards you, you can pull it out of the socket. The tester needs to check the contacts up to the plug connectors. The plate is attached to the kettle body using M4 nuts. There is practically no access to them, so you can unscrew them either with tweezers or sharp teeth.

The plug has thin contacts. Of course, such contacts cannot transmit a power of 2 kW for a long time, so over time they burn out and bend. You can clean them with alcohol and bend them.

If it is definitely established that the contact has disappeared precisely at the connection of the socket with the plug, then you can solder pieces of wires onto the socket contacts to increase the contact volume, or shorten the connection using wires.

The handle has a button to turn on the kettle and a temperature bimetallic plate to turn off the kettle when the water reaches 100 C. The button contacts are also very thin and easily melt.

In addition to kettles with flat heating elements, you can purchase a kettle with a spiral heating element, which runs like a spiral inside the water flask itself. Such kettles have the same shape as kettles with a flat heating element. The only difference is the stand.

There are contact pins at the bottom of the kettle. These pins go into the contact plates and connect 220 V to the heating element. First of all, you need to ring the heating element from the side of the kettle plates. The main problem is in the plates themselves.

The plate with pins is screwed with three M4 screws through a rubber gasket to the heating element itself. You need to screw it evenly and check for leaks.

The first thing you need to do is ring the heating element. Its resistance is 67 Ohms with a kettle power of P=900 W. The heating element becomes covered with scale in cheap models. You can pour 2-4% acetic acid into a kettle and boil with it.

The contact plate is equipped with all kinds of interlocks. This does not increase reliability at all, but only adds a few switchings on very thin plates. On the contact plate on the heating element side there is a steel plate with a cut. The cut is needed to bend forward and turn off the button if the heating element overheats above 120 C. In the center at the top there is a plastic rod that rests on the heating element and presses on the plate, closing the contact. The rod protects the heating element from overheating: it will melt and turn off the voltage supply to the heating element.

If you unscrew the screw in the center of the contact plates, you can remove the top cover. Under the cover there is always a lot of burnt plastic and thin switching and contact plates. The contacts for the kettle's power button are also located here. The button is made in the form of a rod, which lifts the plate and turns off the heating element. The contact plates are all the same and do not differ in the power of the kettle. The most competent repair is to solder everything tightly and boil directly without blocking.

At the very top of the contact plate there is a switch button sensor for the kettle. It triggers when the temperature in the kettle reaches 100 C. The cutout in the steel washer was not made by chance. When heated, metal expands. When the ring heats up, the tongue is pushed forward and presses the shutdown button.

In addition to ordinary household kettles, there is a line of professional and semi-professional kettles. These kettles hold more than 2 liters of water and are able to maintain the required temperature at the same level so that the water is always hot.

A normal kettle does not have a removable stand, which eliminates moving contact. A wire from a computer is suitable for this kettle; apparently, among the Chinese it is quite popular and, most importantly, successful. The power of the kettle is noticeably lower than the power of household kettles. Indeed, professional tea is drunk slowly and in large groups, and in domestic conditions more power is required to reduce the waiting time for boiling water.

The biggest difference is on the inside. There is a motor with a pump here. Indeed, it is quite convenient not to tilt the kettle, but to press a button. It's safer for your health. Under the white cambric in the thermal protection there is a temperature fuse. The control board controls the logic of the entire kettle.