Wood-burning stove made from a gas cylinder. Jet stove from a gas cylinder Long-burning stove from a cylinder

With the onset of cold weather, a caring car owner is looking for an opportunity to warm up his “iron horse”. Being left without a means of transportation due to low temperatures is an unpleasant pleasure. The room intended for parking a car must have a stable temperature all year round. IN otherwise the equipment may simply rust. Today we will talk about how to make a stove for a garage from a gas cylinder.

Features, types and functionality

There are several ways to achieve an optimal climate in a car box - from basic thermal insulation in the walls, ceiling, roof and floor to installing a central and natural heating system. An average option in terms of labor intensity and budget would be an autonomous heater - a stove made from a used gas cylinder.

Particularly handy car owners have long thought through the design of such stoves down to the smallest detail. The idea of ​​this garage heating itself is not new, but it has a number of features, which are described in detail below.

Garage heaters made from gas (usually propane) cylinders are much more economical and functional than other homemade stoves. Their main advantage is that they are convenient for thermal decomposition of fuel. The elongated shape of the gas cylinder is optimal, therefore it meets the basic requirements of the firebox without additional modifications. Only two holes are enough - for the access of oxygen and the release of carbon dioxide into the chimney.

Such “potbelly stoves” are usually divided into two types – vertical and horizontal. If desired, they can be combined.

Advantages and disadvantages

The positive aspects of homemade stoves include:

• excellent thermal conductivity (provided by the thick metal walls of the cylinder);
• convenient dimensions (can be made to fit your garage);
• ease of manufacture and maintenance;
• availability consumables and fuel.

Among the few disadvantages, one can highlight only the ability to use a limited number of types of fuel (wood, coal, fuel briquettes), and with a vertical design, there is also the need to adjust the size of the logs to the length of the firebox.

Design features and operating principle

The “potbelly stove” does not have any special design differences from its relatives in terms of solid fuel. It consists of three departments:

• direct fireboxes with a grate (fuel burns in it);
• blower (provides access to oxygen and space for ash);
• chimney.

To make the operation of the stove convenient and safe, the firebox and vent are equipped with doors with a bolt. These additional design elements improve ignition, reduce the risk of coal falling out and unintentional combustion, and by adjusting the size of the gap in the door, you can reduce or increase the intensity of oxygen supply to the oven.

Doors can be of absolutely any shape. It is only important to take into account standard size logs, as well as the convenience of their installation.

An important element of a homemade stove made from a gas cylinder is the grate. Its function is to retain firewood, as well as to conveniently sift through loose pyrolysis elements. Wood is burning on the grate. Consequently, the material from which the grate will be made must be as durable and heat-resistant as possible. For manufacturing, fittings with a diameter greater than 10 mm are ideal. The rods are connected by welding.

You can install a potbelly stove where there are no problems with the convenience of leading the chimney pipe to the street. Adjacent wooden walls in order to fire safety It is better to surround it with sheets of metal so that when heated, a fire does not occur. This type of stove heats the room very quickly, so they are convenient in emergency situations that require instant heating.

Materials for production

In addition to a propane cylinder (it is better to choose an all-metal cylinder of fifty liters and three decimeters in diameter - this volume is enough for waste-free pyrolysis), you will definitely need corner stands as legs, a grate for the grate, steel sheets (4 mm), a door and a chimney pipe of optimal length . Of the necessary tools you will need to purchase:

• grinder;
• welding;
• metal scissors;
• Screwdriver Set;
• hammer drill

Algorithm of actions

Before you begin building your oven, make sure you have all the supplies you need for safe operation. When working with an angle grinder, be sure to use protection. Create your own drawings.

• First, you should unscrew the rim with the tap, which are placed on top of the cylinder. If it doesn’t budge, you can try to knock it out quietly with a hammer.
• For stability and safety, fill the container with water, or bury it halfway in the soil. This way, you will ensure comfortable working conditions and completely empty the cylinder of accumulated gas.

• At the top you need to cut a hole the size of the future oven door.
• Weld a frame for the door from metal corners, and then attach it to the front wall of the cylinder.
• Attach the door to the frame in exactly the position in which it will be convenient for you to open it when firing the stove. Drill holes in the corners of the door for the bolts. Screw the door to the frame.

• Decide on the hole for the grate and the size of the blower. Cut a hole in the bottom for the grate. Weld the grate.
• Place walls made of steel sheets on the slot on three sides (it will look like a box without a lid). Weld it at the bottom of the cylinder, placing the open part towards the door - this way you can remove the ash without any problems. Try to keep the box without holes. Sealing will provide excellent traction.

Do not forget about the metal damper, which will dose portions of oxygen used during combustion.

With the onset of winter cold, the owners of private households, who bear full responsibility for heating their homes, add more worries. In those rooms where the main heating power is weak or absent altogether (sheds, garages), you have to look for inexpensive alternative methods.

Features of a long-burning stove

The first step is to understand what happens when wood burns. For a flame to appear, the temperature of the wood must be brought to approximately +150 degrees, using an external heating source. Usually, a piece of paper lit from an ordinary match is enough for this. After this, the process of slow charring of the material begins, which, after reaching +250 degrees, begins to decompose into simple chemical elements. The white smoke that appears when a flame is ignited includes gas and water vapor: they are emitted by heated wood. Ignition of the released gaseous components is observed when heating reaches +300 degrees: as a result of this, the thermochemical reaction is significantly accelerated.

The breakdown of organic matter into simple elements is called pyrolysis. Practice shows that during the combustion of wood, part of the energy potential inherent in it remains unused. This is reflected in a significant amount of waste remaining after the flame goes out. In pyrolysis furnaces, fuel is used much more efficiently, which is achieved by separate combustion of gases released during fuel combustion. At the same time, the rate of smoldering of the wood itself is very low, which helps to increase the operating time of the stove on one stack. The Bubafonya stove, which is a type of pyrolysis heater, guarantees almost complete combustion of all fuel.

A little history

The development of the Bubafonya stove is attributed to folk craftsman Afanasy Bubyakin from Kolyma. Subsequently, a new invention was named in his honor. During his experiments, Afanasy relied on the design of the Lithuanian-made Stropuva pyrolysis boiler.

The domestic inventor tried to simplify the design as much as possible so that it could be built with your own hands. This specificity of Bubafoni explains its high popularity. Considering that the material for the manufacture of this device is mainly improvised means, it cannot boast of external aesthetics. The strengths of the stove are its simplicity, efficiency and reliability.

Design

Bake long burning Bubafonya includes the following nodes:

1. Frame. The main element of the device, usually shaped like a cylinder. It is most often made from cylinders, barrels, large fire extinguishers, thick welded pipes, etc.
2. Chimney, through which combustion products are discharged. The material for its manufacture is usually a metal pipe with a diameter of 110-250 mm. It is fixed by welding to the upper part of the furnace.
3. Piston. Ribs are welded onto the lower part of the metal circle: the air duct pipe is fixed in its central part. Due to the ribs, an additional layer of air is created that separates the fuel and the piston. This makes the smoldering process more efficient and stimulates the active release of pyrolysis gases.
4. Regulator. Thanks to this valve, oxygen is supplied inside the firebox.
5. Lid. It has holes for the air duct, forming, in combination with the piston, a secondary combustion chamber. Inside this compartment combustion of pyrolysis gases occurs.

Strengths and weaknesses of Bubafoni

The pyrolysis stove has a number of positive qualities:

• Simplicity of design. Having skills welding work and experience working with metal, building a stove will not be difficult.
• Universalism. Bubafonya is very unpretentious in terms of fuel: you can throw firewood, coal, sawdust, chips and other types of wood waste into it. The stove also copes well with pellets – inexpensive, environmentally friendly granules.
• Duration of work. The time it takes for one stack of firewood to burn out is almost a day: during this time, the stove regularly generates heat. This indicator may vary depending on the modification of the device, the volume of its firebox, the oxygen circulation rate, etc.

It is also worth mentioning the main disadvantages of Bubafoni:

• Low efficiency. The reason for this is uneven heating of the device body with sufficiently low heat transfer. More “advanced” pyrolysis furnaces are much more efficient in this regard: their efficiency often exceeds 90%.
• Inconvenient cleaning. There is no ash pan as such in the design, so the remaining combustion products are removed through the top. Some modifications of the stove are equipped with a door at the bottom, which facilitates the procedure for removing ash and ash.
• Low aesthetics. Appearance Bubafoni can hardly be called beautiful, so it is mainly used for heating utility rooms.

How to make your own oven from a gas cylinder

During the construction of Bubafoni with your own hands, it is necessary to carry out the following activities:

1. Prepare the room, tools and materials.
2. Assemble the structure.
3. Make a chimney.
4. Arrange the base for the pyrolysis furnace.

Drawing up a drawing

The main proportion in the process of making a homemade Bubafonya stove from a gas cylinder is the mathematical ratio of the parameter of the internal diameter of the body and its height. It should be between three and five to one. The optimal diameter is from 30 to 80 cm.

Making the diameter of the stove body less than 30 cm is not effective, since oxygen will circulate too quickly throughout the combustion chamber without fully reacting with the wood. This leads to a noticeable decrease in the efficiency of the device. In chambers with a diameter of more than 80 cm, another problem arises - in it, the firewood on the edge burns very slowly, and in the center - faster. As the fuel burns out, a hole appears into which the piston descends. As a result, the flame gradually fades away. In the drawing, it is more convenient to denote the diameter by the letter D, and the height by H.

Wall thickness

This parameter is the second most important when calculating how to make a Bubafonya stove. Good heat transfer efficiency is ensured by a steel body with a thickness of 4-5 mm. As this indicator decreases, there is a reduction in the operating time of the device on one fuel filler. In addition, too thin walls burn out quickly. Sometimes this is how they make a stove for a long-burning greenhouse with their own hands, which is very practical.

Piston pressing block

The distance from the piston to the inner surface of the piston is calculated using the formula 0.5xD. To calculate the diameter of the pancake, accordingly, the formula d = D – 2xH is used. Calculating the height of the pressing ribs from a metal profile is more difficult, because The relationship between the parameter values ​​is nonlinear. Theoretically, for a furnace body with a diameter of 60-80 cm, this parameter is taken as a number of 0.1xD. The Bubafonya stove from a smaller gas cylinder is calculated using a proportional equation, taking into account that with D0 = 30 cm h0 = 4 cm.

Pancake thickness

This value is in inverse proportion to the internal diameter D. It is necessary to achieve optimal piston pressure on the fuel filler. If the pressure is insufficient, this will lead to a decrease in the reverse action coefficient. As a result, the firebox may backfire with further smoke escaping through the chimney. If the piston is very heavy, this will significantly reduce the air gap necessary for high-quality combustion: as a result, the flame will die out.

The relationship between the internal diameter and thickness of the pancakes is approximately as follows:

• 30 cm – 6-10 mm.
• 40 cm – 6-8 mm.
• 60 cm – 4-6 mm.
• 80 cm – 2.5-4 mm.

Calculation of the optimal chimney area

When determining the smallest permissible area S, the pipes are based on the maximum energy release per hour. S(cm2) = 1.75 x E (kW/hour). Here E = m x q where m is the weight of one portion of fuel: it is calculated by multiplying the maximum volume of the fill V by its density. The coefficient q denotes the specific energy of combustion of a unit volume of fuel in 1 hour.

Diameter of the air intake of the Bubafonya stove

Armed with the diameter of the chimney pipe, you can easily calculate the cross-section of the piston air duct. This value is denoted by the letter d: it is equal to half the value square root from the 4S/π ratio.

Preparatory activities

Since constructing a Bubafonya stove from a gas cylinder will require a welding machine, it is necessary to find a suitable room for the work in advance. It must be equipped with effective ventilation, uninterrupted power supply and reliable wiring (as a rule, the use of welding provokes power surges in the network). The workroom must be well protected from climatic influences and have sufficient space. It is also desirable to have good sound insulation, since the grinder and welding machine are quite noisy tools.

You also need to prepare the following materials:

• Old gas cylinder. This is the basis for a pyrolysis oven. Also suitable for this role is a steel or cast iron barrel with a volume of approximately 200 liters, which has strong, rust-free walls. Often, large fire extinguishers or metal pipes with welded bottoms are used for this.
• Pieces of reinforcement. They will be needed to make handles, which are usually installed on the sides of the case and on top of the lid. This significantly simplifies the procedure for cleaning the stove from combustion residues and moving it from place to place.
• Steel sheet for piston.
• A pair of metal pipes. They are needed for the manufacture of a chimney and air duct. The optimal cross-section for the air pipe is 85-100 mm. Moreover, it is approximately 150 mm higher than the height of the cylinder. For the chimney you will need a wider pipe: its diameter must be at least 150 mm. The length of the smoke channel should not be less than the cross section of the cylinder.
• Channel.
• Material for laying the foundation for the stove.

List of tools required for work:

• Hammer.
• Vise.
• Shovel.
• Master OK.
• Portable welding machine with a set of electrodes.
• Grinder for cutting workpieces.
• Tape measure, pencil, plumb line and level.

How to assemble a structure with a water jacket

The manufacture of the chimney is carried out in the following sequence of operations:

1. Carefully cut the balloon at the top. The resulting cap is subsequently used to make a lid for the boiler.
2. The bottom of the cylinder is equipped with homemade legs. Each of them must be exactly level before fixing.

The piston is constructed in three stages:

1. A steel circle is cut out: in cross section it should be approximately 35-45 mm smaller than the internal diameter of the cylinder. Thanks to the side gaps, pyrolysis gases will leak into the secondary chamber without interference. A hole is made in the center of the circle for the air duct: this pipe should be inserted into it quite tightly.
2. Next, the metal circle and pipe are welded to each other.
3. A piece of channel is welded on top of the piston base.

To make a furnace lid, you can use the upper cut part of the cylinder. On its surface, markings are applied for the air duct pipe with a fixed supply piston. In this case, it is necessary to provide a certain margin for the free movement of the pipe. Cutting is done along the drawn lines. On the side, the homemade lid is decorated with handles, for which fittings bent in a vice are used. Now you can begin installing the chimney at the top of the improvised pyrolysis oven. Using a grinder, a cutout is made for the pipe blank: welding is also used to fasten the parts.

To increase the quality of chimney draft, it is recommended to make it from two elbows perpendicular to each other. To do this, a cut is made at the end of the pipe section leaving the furnace at an angle of 45 degrees, after which it is connected by welding to a piece of pipe of the same diameter. It would not be superfluous to take care of additional protection for the chimney from the ingress of debris and climatic precipitation - a reflective cap is usually made for these purposes.

At this point, the main part of the work on the construction of Bubafoni is considered completed: it can be put into operation. It is advisable to install the stove on a pre-arranged foundation.

Foundation construction

The foundation for the Bubafonya stove is laid in this way:

1. The first step is to dig a square hole. Its approximate dimensions are 150x150 cm, with a depth of 20-30 cm.
2. The bottom of the trench is covered with a cushion of crushed stone and filled with concrete solution. A trowel is useful to level its surface. When the filled area has set, it is necessary to check the horizontalness of its surface using a building level. If necessary, additional adjustments are made.
3. Refractory bricks are laid in several rows on top of a completely dry concrete base. Usually 2-3 layers are enough.

Oven operation

Before igniting the Bubafoni, it is necessary to remove the welded air duct from inside the housing, first removing the top cap. Wood logs are placed inside the stove in a horizontal position, close to each other. When stacking vertically, some obstacles may arise in the path of the piston movement: this usually happens in cases where the logs are not completely burned. As a result, smoldering in the primary chamber will develop into full combustion, which seriously impairs the proper functioning of the stove. In this case, firewood is consumed much faster, and smoke begins to seep out of the air duct. When laying logs, it is prohibited to block the area where the chimney is welded.

A layer of chips, sawdust or chopped branches is poured onto the firewood. On top of them you need to put old cloth or paper soaked in kerosene. A piston is installed end-to-end on the fuel filler and a cap is put on. To light firewood, you need to light a piece of rags or paper and throw it inside through the air pipe. Matches are ineffective in this case, since they go out before they can reach the fuel. After lighting the firewood, pause for 15-20 minutes, allowing it to flare up well. When the flame gains strength, the valve on the air pipe should be closed: thus, Bubafonya is transferred to the main operating mode.

How to increase the efficiency of a pyrolysis furnace

Basically, the efficiency of Bubafoni decreases due to uneven heating of its body; this leads to a deterioration in the efficiency of heat exchange between the device and the surrounding space. There is a fairly simple way to optimize the process using corrugated metal sheet. An improvised jacket for the body is made from it: it is fixed over the cylinder by welding or twisting.

Thanks to this modification, upward convection currents are able to form better. In this case, cold air will enter from below the ribs, and heated air will be pushed up. For the same purposes, lining the body with brick is used. The side walls erected in this way begin to accumulate the heat emanating from the stove, evenly releasing it into the surrounding space.

Another popular option for increasing the efficiency of a pyrolysis furnace is the Bubafonya boiler with a water jacket. Most often, the water circuit is made from a metal barrel or box, pouring water into it. By placing red-hot Bubafonya inside the manufactured structure, you can heat the water and let it go inside the heating system. In this way, it is possible to acquire a kind of boiler for heating a large room.

When creating a water jacket, you must take all necessary measures to make it as reliable as possible. If a box is used for these purposes, it must be well welded to avoid leaks. It is advisable to seal all seams with heat-resistant sealant. The recommended thickness of the steel sheet for making a water circuit is at least 3 mm. It is best to close the top of the box with a lid with handles. The Bubafonya long-burning stove with a water jacket can be additionally equipped with a heat exchanger consisting of thin tubes.

There are several useful tips for better and safer operation of a long-burning gas cylinder stove:

• It is best to install the device indoors on a sheet of metal.
• The space around the stove must be cleared of any flammable objects.
• When igniting fuel, it is not recommended to abuse flammable liquid.
• The body of the product gets quite hot, so when servicing the heater you need to wear thick gloves.
• To extinguish the flame, the damper on the air pipe is closed.
• Painting parts of Bubafoni is strictly prohibited.

You can heat all kinds of technical premises, private garages, and small auto repair shops using various units. If desired, you can actually make the simplest design for heating non-residential objects yourself, using an old gas cylinder.

Gas cylinder stove - simple and effective

Nowadays, non-standard heating devices made by hand are used by many home craftsmen. One of the most interesting, easy to manufacture, reliable and cheap to operate is a homemade unit that uses waste oil as fuel. It can be built literally in a couple of hours from a gas cylinder. This boiler has a simple design and operating principle.

The exhaust stove, constructed from a gas cylinder, has two compartments. They burn fuel. Moreover, this process is performed twice. First, direct combustion of waste oil is observed (in the first compartment). This leads to the appearance of flammable mixture vapors. They go to the second compartment of the homemade boiler. There they combine with air, resulting in a highly concentrated flammable composition. When it is burned, a huge amount of heat is generated, which can heat a fairly large area of ​​the room.

Gas cylinder units have many advantages. The cost of their assembly and operation is minimal. You can use any old gas cylinder that has been lying around somewhere in the garage for decades. And it’s easy to purchase the work at the nearest car service center. It costs a penny. The main thing here is not to use overly contaminated oil, since in this case the indicator useful action the stove will decrease, and the complexity of its maintenance (cleaning) will increase.

Other advantages of waste boilers:

• Trouble-free design. In the finished unit, in fact, there is nothing to break.
• Full autonomy. No need to connect the oven to electrical network or other energy sources.
• Low fuel consumption. A unit made from a 50-liter cylinder consumes no more than 2 liters of waste oil per hour.
• No soot, no burning, no unpleasant odor during operation of the device.
• Versatility. The stoves we are interested in are suitable for any non-residential premises, be it a car garage, a utility or industrial premises, a private greenhouse or a greenhouse.

It is also important that the stove from the cylinder stops working immediately after the fuel is burned (the supply to the combustion compartment is stopped).

Disadvantages of units during development - important to know!

We talked in detail about the advantages of using homemade boilers that operate on waste oil. Let’s not forget to talk about the disadvantages of such structures. First of all, they are considered a fire hazard. Cylinder stoves have open holes through which fire can spread throughout the heated object in a matter of seconds. This fact necessitates constant monitoring of the unit’s operation. Throwing it unattended when the waste is fed into the furnace is strictly prohibited.

The next disadvantage of the design is objectively strong noise. The unit is really loud. Not every person is ready to endure such inconveniences. Also, after each use of the stove, its combustion chambers must be cleaned. A similar procedure must be performed with the chimney. It is an essential part of a homemade waste oil boiler. The chimney, by the way, has to be made quite high (at least 4 m). If you build a smaller smoke duct, the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning increases several times.

Oil intended for combustion in a furnace must be stored under special conditions. It should not be left in direct sunlight. It is also prohibited to store it at subzero temperatures. The mining freezes even with minor minuses and becomes absolutely useless. Once defrosted, it cannot be used as fuel.

Another serious drawback of the described stoves is associated with oil. The waste must be cleaned. If you use unrefined oil, the unit's nozzles will quickly become clogged. This may well cause the cylinder to explode. Some home craftsmen say that their homemade heating boilers run on untreated waste. Perhaps the unit will be able to heat the room using such oil. But the effectiveness of its work, believe me, will be minimal.

Elements of a simple homemade stove - what will we make it from?

All drawings that can be used for testing are approximately the same. Below we show a diagram of a simple heating unit. It is for this that we will make a homemade device.

The drawing shows all the elements of our boiler. The basis of the design is a gas cylinder (position 1). The oven is also supplied with:

• Perforated pipe (2). It functions as a device for removing combustion gases. The thickness of the pipe walls should be 4–5 mm, the cross-section should be 10 cm.
• Another steel pipe (3) with the parameters indicated above. It plays the role of a heat exchanger.
• A steel sheet (4), which serves as a partition between two compartments of the structure (in one the oil burns, in the second it evaporates).
• Metal visor (5). It is best to make it from 4 mm thick steel. The visor ensures maximum efficiency of heating the pipe.
• Evaporator bowl (6). This element is easiest to make from a brake disc from any passenger car.
• Half-inch water pipe (8). It supplies used oil to the combustion chamber. This process is controlled by a plumbing ball valve (9), used as a valve.
• Oil tank (11). It is a special container for storing fuel. It is advisable to fit any unnecessary cylinder that is equipped with a built-in needle valve under the tank.

The furnace design also includes a duct fan (13), a connecting element - a coupling (7), an air swirler (12), welded from equal-flange angles (shelf width - 5 cm) and a device for supplying fuel (10). As the latter, it is allowed to use a suitable (flexible) pipe made of fire-resistant material or a durable hose.

We build a boiler from a 50 liter cylinder - any craftsman can do it!

We prepare all the necessary parts and begin assembling the stove for testing. Before starting the main work, you should completely empty the cylinder of condensate and gas residues in it. Advice. It is easy to check the quality of the work performed. Coat the valve outlet (the hole at the end) with concentrated dishwashing liquid or regular soap. Open the faucet. If there is no condensate or gas left in the cylinder, foam bubbles will not appear at the outlet. This means you did everything right.

We remove the valve from the cylinder. If you have a gas container with a non-removable tap, you will have to tinker. Use an electric drill to drill a hole in the bottom. And then unscrew the valve. Note! Experts advise performing this operation very carefully. Even if you are sure that all the flammable composition has left the cylinder, there is still some possibility of the container exploding. Do not press down on the power tool with excessive force. Even better, water the drill with ordinary water while making a hole in the bottom. Then the risk of explosion will be zero. After dismantling the valve, fill the cylinder with water to the top and wait a couple of minutes until it all comes out.

Now we cut out two windows on the gas cylinder. The height of the first (lower) is 20 cm, the second (upper) is 40. The width of the openings is a third of the cross-section of the cylinder used. There should be a jumper between the cut windows. Its height is 5–7 cm. We have a full-fledged compartment for burning fuel. By the way, you can even put coal and firewood in it if you wish.

The next step is to make a device that will separate the heat exchanger from the oil combustion chamber. We will make the separator from a steel sheet 4 mm thick. We cut out a circle from it with a diameter corresponding to the cross-section of a 50-liter gas container. That's not all. In the central part of the completed workpiece, we again cut out a circle (necessary for installing the burner). Its diameter is 10 cm.

The burner itself is made from a pipe with a height of 20 and a cross-section of 10 mm. The finished product will need to be perforated - drill several 1.5–2 cm holes. All burrs must be removed from the latter. If cleaning is not done, soot will constantly settle on the holes during operation of the stove. This will cause a narrowing of their cross-section, which over time will lead to a significant decrease in the efficiency of the home-made heating unit.

We put a membrane on the burner made according to all the rules. Weld the last one strictly in the center. Then install the entire workpiece into the cylinder and securely connect it by welding around the perimeter. Advice. The pipe can be welded to the bottom of the chamber divider. Then it will be possible to load special pellets and briquettes, as well as sawdust and other solid fuels into the stove.

The second part of the work - we bring the heating device to mind

The evaporator bowl is made from a brake disc or from any metal product with a high heat resistance rating. Choose a material that is not afraid of elevated temperatures and sudden changes. After this, weld the lid and bottom. Do not forget to leave an opening into which the mining will be poured. It is advisable to improve this part of the oven a little. Simplifying the fuel filling process is easy. It is enough to weld a low tube to the lid at a 40-degree angle, and then cut off the end of the tubular product to get a kind of spout. It will be much easier to fill through it.

If you install a ball valve on the pipe, the unit will become much safer to operate. If any problems arise with the tank, you can quickly shut off the supply of used oil.

We construct the heat exchanger from a 10-centimeter pipe. We place it clearly horizontally in the housing of the heating device. It is recommended to additionally mount a metal screen at the end of the heat exchanger (we weld a sheet of steel to the pipe). Due to this device, the heating rate of the system and its beneficial effect will significantly increase.

The oven is ready. You just need to connect the chimney to it. We take a pipe 4–6 m long. In its lower part we cut a hole with a cross-section of about 6 cm. We weld a piece (2–2.5 m) of another pipe to it. It is parallel to the floor surface. All that remains is to weld the vertical part of the chimney, mounted outside the room, to a short pipe.

Advice. Make another 6–7 cm hole on the short chimney pipe and cover it with a metal plate. This simple device will allow you to adjust the intensity with which air will enter the oven. And this, in turn, will make it possible to regulate the combustion rate of the waste. We also need to weld the iron legs to the bottom of the stove we made. They are easy to make from metal corners.

Features of operating cylinder furnaces during mining – safety first!

We have already noted that the structure we are interested in, used for heating non-residential objects, belongs to the group of fire hazardous equipment. If you do not want to encounter serious problems when using a homemade boiler for mining, adhere to the following rules:

• There should be no drafts in the room where the unit is located. Wind freely moving around the object can cause fire to escape from the stove through the existing openings.
• A stationary gas cylinder boiler must be installed exclusively on metal slabs, concrete or cement base.
• After use, the oven must be cleaned. The cylinder itself should be cleaned after each heating session. Remove soot and soot from the chimney at least once every 5–7 days. If the stove is actively used every day, the smoke exhaust duct also needs to be cleaned daily.
• All structures, products, materials, objects that are prone to rapid ignition must be located at a distance of at least 4–5 m from the stove.

Last recommendation. Do not fill the combustion compartment full of used oil. The maximum permissible filling of this chamber is 2/3 of its volume. If used correctly, the exhaust unit, made from a gas cylinder, will serve you for a long time and efficiently.

The onset of cold weather makes it very topical issue heating. It is especially important for those premises in which people are occasionally present: utility rooms, garages, etc. It is very impractical to equip a stationary system here, and often impossible, but it is also impossible to do without heating. There are two options: systems running on electricity or solid fuel. The second category includes an economical potbelly stove made from a gas cylinder - even an inexperienced home craftsman can assemble it with his own hands. Let's take a closer look at how this is done.

The principle of operation of such a stove

A stove of this type is a practical solution for all kinds of unheated rooms that occasionally need to be heated. Due to their design features The potbelly stove heats up very quickly, which allows you to achieve a comfortable temperature with minimal time. However, it cools down just as quickly and this is its big drawback. You can deal with it by covering the stove with bricks, but be sure to leave a small gap between the masonry and the metal. Only in this case will the device maintain a high heating rate, but it will take longer to cool down.

There must be two rectangular holes on the body of the heater. One is for supplying fuel, the second is for blowing

The main structural element is the housing, on which there are doors through which fuel is introduced into the system. The system also includes a chimney and a vent. This is the name of a special hole for air that ensures the combustion process. Quite often it is combined with a compartment where ash is collected. It is best to install another door here, this will make it easier to clean the oven. The principle of operation of the system is simple. Fuel is added to the firebox. When it burns, heat is released, which heats the metal of the case. That, in turn, gives off heat to the air and very quickly warms up the room. The chimney pipe removes combustion products harmful to humans from the room.

A small nuance. If the chimney is laid along the shortest path, then most of the heat will escape out along with the smoke. This is very irrational, so you should arrange a broken-shaped pipe. This will significantly increase the efficiency of the furnace. Almost anything that can burn can be used as fuel for the system. This could be firewood, coal, carpentry waste, old clothes, household waste, etc. The attractiveness of a potbelly stove lies in the simplicity of its design and versatility, since the device can be used not only for heating, but also for cooking.

Instructions for self-production

For an experienced home craftsman, making a potbelly stove will not be difficult. You should start by preparing the gas cylinder for use. This is a mandatory procedure, otherwise the gas, which most often remains in the container, may explode upon contact with a spark during cutting. First, unscrew the cylinder valve and let the remaining gas escape. Then we turn the container over and drain the condensate. It should be noted that it smells very unpleasant. Therefore, it is worth carefully collecting it in some kind of container. The smell from condensation accidentally falling on the floor or other surface takes a very long time to disappear.

Before you start working with the cylinder, it should be prepared. It is imperative to get rid of any remaining gas in the container, otherwise it may explode during work.

Place the container vertically and fill it to the top with water. This is necessary so that the remaining gas that remains inside is completely displaced by the liquid. Then turn the container on its side and completely drain the water. Now the cylinder can be subjected to any manipulation without fear. This is how, for example, disassembling and cutting takes place:

Having prepared everything you need, you should determine the type of stove. It can be of horizontal or vertical design.

Option #1 - horizontal system

In this embodiment, the cylinder is placed in a horizontal plane. First you need to cut off its top part. Then install a grate inside the container. It is made from reinforcement. The rod is neatly bent like a snake. Installation of grates is quite simple. They are installed in the container and welded to it. Now let's work on the front part. We take a sheet of steel and mark on it the outline of a circle with a diameter equal to the outer contour of the cylinder. Cut out the part. Then we mark two rectangular holes inside the circle. The first is intended for supplying fuel to the combustion chamber, the second - under the ash pan.

Using a chisel or grinder, cut out the intended holes. We weld the curtains to the finished lid and attach the doors to them. The latter should be covered along the contour with asbestos-cement cord. We weld the prepared structure to the cylinder. The front part of the stove is ready. Let's move on to the back of the device. Here you need to install a chimney. To do this, we cut out a hole equal in size to the diameter of the pipe used to remove smoke. We weld a chimney of the required shape and size, made of a thick-walled pipe, to it. The oven is ready.

A type of potbelly stove, which involves a horizontal arrangement of the body of the gas cylinder. Quite simple to manufacture design

Option #2 - vertical design

When arranging this design, the cylinder is located vertically. There are two ways to set up the system. The first involves more work associated with cutting, but there are fewer difficulties during installation. When choosing this method, use a grinder to remove the upper part of the cylinder. The second method saves time, effort and electrodes, but is extremely inconvenient. IN in this case the top of the cylinder remains in place. In any case, we cut out a fairly large combustion hole on the front of the future device. Below you need to place a smaller hole for the blower and cleaning the stove from ash.

You can place holes arbitrarily, as well as select sizes for them. The main thing is that there are two rectangular holes in the lower part of the case. Without them, the stove will not be able to function. Now you should prepare the grates for installation. They are made from reinforcing rods, which are bent in the form of a snake and welded inside the body between rectangular holes. In the case of the first installation option, this operation is carried out very easily, since the grille is lowered through the open top part. In the second case, it is quite difficult, since the grate bars are inserted through the top hole and held through the bottom hole, and this is extremely inconvenient.

A potbelly stove can be made from a gas cylinder placed vertically. This system involves two manufacturing methods. The top of the container can either be cut off for ease of installation or not

After installing the grates, the curtains are welded to the holes for the doors. They need to be covered with asbestos-cement cord to ensure the necessary tightness and installed in place. Now you need to make a hole for the chimney. This can be done in two ways. The central exhaust gas outlet and oxygen supply is supposed to be through a hole in the top cover of the device. The size of the hole must correspond to the diameter of the pipe that will be used as a chimney. Side smoke exhaust and oxygen supply are also possible. In this case, the hole is made in the side of the body. An elbow is most often welded to it, but a direct outlet can also be arranged. The last stage is to attach the chimney of the desired configuration and length. If the top of the cylinder is cut off, weld it in place.

A homemade potbelly stove is a very economical and fairly effective solution for heating rarely used rooms. When deciding to use it, you need to remember that such a heating device is potentially dangerous. It burns oxygen, so from time to time it is necessary to provide fresh air access to the room. In addition, all precautions necessary when handling devices that operate with open flames should be observed. In this case, there will be no security problems.

The simple, unpretentious design of the potbelly stove made it a hit among heating devices that can be built at home. This popularity is due to several factors, one of which is the undemanding nature of materials. A good, productive stove can be made from metal, which can always be found from a zealous owner - pieces of fittings, strips of sheet steel, remnants of metal pipes and angles, and even from parts from various machines and mechanisms. Often, a ready-made container is used as a housing - a piece of large-diameter pipe, a barrel for fuel and lubricants, or a container for household propane-butane. We’ll tell you in more detail about the advantages of the last option and how to make a potbelly stove from a gas cylinder with your own hands.

The secrets of the popularity of a potbelly stove from a cylinder

This stylish potbelly stove can be built from a regular gas cylinder

Potbelly stoves are simple, small-sized stoves designed for heating small rooms that, for some reason, cannot be fully heated. engineering system. Most often, units of this type are made of metal and are used in garages, sheds, country houses, greenhouses and cabins. Sometimes potbelly stoves are also installed for temporary heating of residential premises, and with minor modifications they are left as the main source of heat.

Making a stove from a gas cylinder has a lot of positive aspects:

the thickness of the walls of the container is more than 3 mm, which is quite enough to ensure the rigidity and strength of the structure;

Vessels for storing gases are made of high-alloy steels that successfully resist corrosion. In addition, sufficiently thick and high-quality metal guarantees that the walls of the potbelly stove will not burn out for a long time;

minimal modifications will be required. Since there is no need to manufacture the furnace body, the time for building the heating device is reduced;

Even if you buy a container for household gas, its cost on the secondary market is only a few hundred rubles. Most often, you can get a cylinder completely free of charge by asking around among your acquaintances and friends;

from the point of view of heating engineering, the cylindrical shape of the firebox is optimal, therefore a potbelly stove made from a vessel for household gas is economical and highly productive;

the existence of several structures, among which are horizontal and vertical units of direct or pyrolysis combustion;

very fast heating of the room both due to radiation and convection.

The disadvantages of a heat generator built using a gas cylinder are inherent in all potbelly stoves. Firstly, the walls of the heating device become red hot, which in no way contributes to the safety of the unit. Secondly, it is impossible to guess the exact amount of firewood in order to somehow regulate the heating temperature. Thirdly, the extremely low heat capacity of such a structure. The potbelly stove will provide heat exactly until the wood burns out. After this, it will instantly cool down.

Most often, 50-liter propane cylinders are used to make potbelly stoves.

To increase the heat-storing capacity of the furnace body, the unit is often encased in brick or stone masonry, a water jacket and other methods of energy storage are used.

I would also like to note not a minus, but rather a feature associated with the fact that gas cylinders are painted with ordinary enamel. At high temperatures, the paint will burn out, filling the room with toxic smoke. To eliminate the possibility of poisoning, you will have to remove the top coating mechanically or conduct the first two or three fireboxes in an open space.

Design features and principle of operation

Like any other direct combustion solid fuel stove, the unit, made from a gas cylinder, consists of several parts:

firebox combined with the body;

grate;

blower chamber;

chimney.

The blower is located at the bottom of the stove and is a small chamber (essentially a channel) necessary to supply oxygen to the combustion zone. To regulate the amount of air, monitor the process and remove ashes, the ash pan is equipped with a door.

Simple design is one of the components of the success of cylindrical potbelly stoves

In the middle part of the furnace there is a combustion chamber, which is separated from the ash pan by a grate. Being the main module of the heating device, the firebox simultaneously plays the role of a loading compartment and a heat exchanger. Like the vent, the firebox is equipped with a door through which firewood is placed into the potbelly stove and ash is removed.

The chimney is a channel necessary to remove combustion products from working area. A damper must be installed in the chimney, which is closed after the wood burns out. This prevents heat from escaping from the room when the stove is not in use.

The operation of a heat generator from a gas cylinder is not difficult. After the firewood is placed on the grate, they are set on fire and the combustion chamber door is closed. The blower must be open at this time - air passes through it to the fuel. The intensity of combustion is controlled by closing or opening the bottom door. Heated gases are removed through the chimney.

To increase the efficiency of heat exchange, the potbelly stove is equipped with additional elements that allow the residual heat of the flue gases to be removed. To do this, an air heat exchanger or a water jacket is installed on the chimney. Often the modification consists of lengthening the part of the chimney that is located in the room.

Preparatory activities

If you think through everything and prepare it in advance, then during the work you will be able to avoid mistakes and reduce time costs. First of all, you will need to remove the remaining gas from the cylinder, collect necessary tools and purchase missing materials. A detailed drawing or sketch of the heating device will also help in the work.

What kind of cylinder is needed and how to prepare it for work

First of all, we note that only all-metal cylinders for household propane-butane are suitable for making a potbelly stove, including those used to equip LPG in trucks or cars. The best preparation can be considered a 50-liter vessel, which can be found in most private households. Its height of 850 mm and diameter of 300 mm is enough to burn all types of fuel, from firewood or sawdust to used motor oil.

A good potbelly stove can be built from a 27-liter propane cylinder if you use a horizontal design of the unit and retrofit it with an ash chamber. Its small size allows this unit to be used as a mobile structure.

Since even an empty cylinder may contain gas residues, condensate or its vapors, it can be dangerous to carry out any work with it without careful preparation of the container - any spark can lead to an explosion.

The water will displace the remaining gas from the cylinder, after which you can begin plumbing work without fear

To completely remove propane or its derivatives, use a proven method:

Open the valve and release the remaining gas from the cylinder.

Turn the container upside down and pour out the condensate.

Using a gas wrench or an adjustable wrench, remove the valve.

Place the vessel vertically and use a hose to completely fill it with water. The liquid will completely displace the remaining gas and make the preparation for the potbelly stove safe.

After the water has been drained, you can carry out any plumbing work with the cylinder - cutting, drilling, cooking, etc.

Since both gas and condensate are explosive substances, and in addition, have a strong, unpleasant odor, work must be carried out in the open air, away from open flame sources.

The valve from the cylinder can be unscrewed using an adjustable wrench

What you need to avoid being distracted by small things

Before getting started, you need to prepare the following tools:

welding inverter or transformer designed for currents up to 200 A;

manual grinder, or, as it is called in our country, a grinder, designed for the use of discs with a diameter of up to 180 mm;

stripping and cutting discs for metal work;

grinder attachment for cleaning metal from rust;

electrodes with a diameter of 3–4 mm;

welder's hammer;

drill with a set of drills for steel;

chisel;

hammer;

pliers;

tape measure, metal ruler and square;

marker and core.

In addition to one or two gas cylinders, to build a potbelly stove you will need:

A potbelly stove made from a cylinder can be equipped with factory cast iron doors

sheet steel more than 3 mm thick;

chimney pipe with a diameter of 100 mm;

chimney elbow 90° or 2x45°;

cast iron doors;

grate bars or steel reinforcement with a diameter of 20 mm to replace them;

hinges for hanging the door;

metal corners with a shelf measuring at least 30 mm.

If you are a supporter of aesthetics in any of its manifestations, then, in addition to everything else, prepare a solvent, primer and paint. A painted potbelly stove will look much better, and the final finishing will give the unit a complete look. Of course, these materials must be designed for use in high temperature environments.

Which design to choose for your project

Despite all the variety of stoves that can be built from a regular gas cylinder, existing designs can be reduced to three main types:

horizontal;

vertical;

combined.

A horizontal potbelly stove is easier to manufacture and, according to the owners, has greater heat transfer (which, in principle, is not far from the truth, given the slightly enlarged fuel chamber). At the same time, it occupies a large area, which in some cases is unacceptable. Horizontal units are good where there is room to turn around - in spacious workshops, warehouses, greenhouses, etc.

The horizontal position of the cylinder is more advantageous from the point of view of thermophysics

The vertical heating device takes up much less space and has an ideal configuration for installation in a corner. For installation in garages and small spaces, home craftsmen choose this particular design, although it is more difficult to manufacture. The difficulties arise from the fact that to install the grate you have to weld in a limited space, and this is not very convenient. At the same time, there is a method when, to install the grate, the cylinder is cut into two parts, and then welded again.

Vertical stove - one of the most compact heating devices

Combined potbelly stoves are made from two or more cylinders, one of which acts as a firebox, and the other as a heat exchanger. In fact, such a heating device is the same horizontal structure, but since its chambers are made of separate vessels, we still classify such structures as a separate subspecies. Combined-type stoves are the most economical and thermally efficient heating devices, but they cannot be called ideal, given their large dimensions and increased labor costs.

The combined heating device has increased efficiency

Below we have presented drawings and diagrams that can help you in your work or in designing your own structure.

Drawings and diagrams of potbelly stoves that can be built from gas containers

Drawing of a horizontal unit Scheme of a vertical potbelly stove Drawing of a vertical potbelly stove made of yuallon Drawing of a long-burning potbelly stove

Making a potbelly stove from a propane cylinder with your own hands

The popularity of horizontal and vertical designs is so great that it is difficult to choose one or the other as the ideal option. Therefore, we will talk about the features of the construction of both heating devices.

How to make a vertical unit: step-by-step description of processes

The propane cylinder is placed on the floor, after which the cutout locations for the oven doors are marked. Special precision is not needed here - the dimensions are determined based on ease of use and personal preferences. It is best to draw lines with a marker, going around the container with a tape measure. Most often, the blower is made 10–15 cm high, departing from the bottom of the cylinder at least 5 cm. The firebox door should be larger - at least 25 cm in height. The width of both openings is the same, from 25 to 35 cm. As for the distance between the doors, it is made at least 10 cm - in this case, the necessary gap will be provided for installing the grate.

Correct marking is the key to successful stove operation

Along the line that divides the distance between the combustion and blower doors into two parts, cut the cylinder in half.

To facilitate the installation of grate bars, it is better to cut the cylinder in half

The short, lower part is installed vertically, after which grate bars are welded into its upper opening. They use pieces of reinforcement Ø20 mm of the required length. The gap between the individual grille elements should be from 5 to 10 mm, depending on the type of fuel used.

Installation of grate

The halves of the cylinder are combined with each other to their original state and welded with a continuous seam.

Using a grinder, openings for the firebox and vent are made in the side wall of the vessel. Since the cut out parts will be used as doors in the future, the work must be done as carefully as possible. To simplify your task, first cut the vertical grooves, after which the hinges are welded. Only after this the grinder is passed along the entire perimeter of the loading and blower window. This method greatly simplifies the installation process - after cutting, the doors will be securely held in place. It is also important that you will not need to set gaps, which are quite problematic to do without an assistant.

It is better to install the hinges before the door is separated from the body

Instead of factory hinges, you can use a couple of links of a powerful drive chain from agricultural machinery for a homemade design.

The role of loops will be successfully played by the links of a large chain

To prevent the doors from falling inward, back side the openings are welded with stops. They can be cut from a steel strip with a thickness of at least 3 mm. By the way, such a strip can completely scald the entire opening - it will eliminate the gap through which the stove can smoke into the room.

Stops for fixing the door in the desired position

Handles are bent from a metal rod 8–10 mm thick and welded to the doors.

Bolts are made from a steel strip and the same rod, which will prevent the spontaneous opening of the blower and furnace doors.

The valve is cut off from the top of the cylinder. This should result in a hole with a diameter of 105 mm.

Line segment steel pipe 15–20 cm long, cut lengthwise and then unbent, widening the gap to 10 mm. The resulting gap must be welded in such a way as to obtain a workpiece with a diameter of at least 105 mm.

The resulting segment is welded into the upper part of the cylinder - it will play the role of an outlet pipe (collar) into which the stove pipe will be inserted. In some cases, the smoke channel exits from the side. The horizontal section of the chimney allows you to slightly reduce the speed of the outgoing gases and increase heat transfer. The hole for the valve must be welded.

A vertical chimney is much easier to install, but the side exit of the chimney will increase the thermal efficiency of the potbelly stove

Since stoves of this type often use low-quality fuel, professional stove makers recommend making the stove pipe composite. The detachable design makes it easy to disassemble the chimney to clean it from soot and other deposits.

Depending on the design of the chimney, it is made straight or curved. In the latter case, use a knee with the required degree of bending. To ensure sufficient draft, the length of the chimney must be at least 4 m, and its upper cut must be located above the roof.

At a distance of 5–10 cm from the junction with the pipe, a valve (gate) is installed on the chimney. To do this from sheet metal a circle is cut out, the diameter of which corresponds to the internal cross-section of the chimney, and a through drilling of Ø8 mm is performed perpendicular to the chimney pipe. After this, an L-shaped steel rod of appropriate thickness is installed in the hole, to which the damper is welded. To prevent its spontaneous rotation, install a lock of any type.

A cutout in the damper increases the safety of the unit, since it eliminates the possibility of smoke due to spontaneous closing

If necessary, the finished product is painted, after which it is installed in place, a chimney is attached and a test fire is carried out.

Instructions for making a horizontal stove-stove with photos step by step

The valve is unscrewed from the cylinder, after which the hole is welded.

The support shoe is removed from the bottom of the cylinder, and then a square loading window is cut into the spherical end. It is best to do this in the same way as when making a vertical potbelly stove, that is, by first installing the hinges. In this case, the cut door will not have to be exposed before installation.

The design can be simplified by eliminating the grate from it. In this case, many Ø10 mm drillings are made in the bottom of the stove, through which oxygen will flow to the firewood.

On the grate side, an ash pan up to 10 cm high is mounted on the cylinder. For this, you can use a section of a channel of a suitable size.

Ash pit installation

Legs are welded to the cylinder, which can be made from any suitable pieces of pipes, angles or fittings.

In the upper part of the cylinder, at a distance of 20–25 cm from the closed end, a hole with a diameter of 105–110 mm is cut, onto which a collar is mounted (from a metal strip or a pre-fabricated pipe).

It is best to cut a round hole using a diamond bit or a gas (plasma) cutter. If this is not possible, then many Ø6–8 mm drillings are made along the contour of the future chimney, after which the window is cut out with a chisel.

A stove pipe equipped with a damper is installed on the potbelly stove. That's it - the heating unit is ready for work!

This is what the final unit should look like:

Recommendations for choosing a location and operating a heating device

A potbelly stove is such a compact heating device that it can be placed in almost any room, the main thing is that the chimney can be taken outside. We must remember that from the right choice The location of the stove installation depends on the efficiency of the device and the safety of its operation. Therefore, we recommend taking the advice of professional stove makers.

For maximum heat transfer, it is best to install the potbelly stove in the corner of the room farthest from the door.

The furnace installation site is covered metal sheet, which is 20 cm greater than the overall width of the heating device and at least 60 cm its length.

The potbelly stove must not be installed under shelves or near places where flammable and explosive materials are stored.

The room is equipped with effective supply and exhaust ventilation.

When installing potbelly stoves, be sure to maintain the gaps between the walls of the heating device and the combustible structures of the room. For fire safety purposes, the latter are protected with special screens with ventilated gaps.

Once the safety of the heating device has been ensured, you can proceed to the firebox. For those who are encountering a potbelly stove for the first time, let us consider the process of putting the stove into operation in more detail.

The installation location of the stove must comply with safety standards

First, flammable fuels are loaded into the firebox - paper, cardboard, straw or rags soaked in kerosene. A few chips and finely chopped firewood are placed on top, and large logs are placed on top of them. Firewood can be placed in any way - horizontal rows, cage, cone, etc. After this, the bottom layer of fuel is set on fire and closed, leaving the ash door completely open. The vent is covered only when the stove reaches operating mode, as evidenced by a characteristic hum. ABOUT correct adjustment air supply is indicated by a slight noise, a “whisper” of the furnace - with such a load, the unit provides an optimal balance between efficiency and productivity.

You can stir the firewood only when it is at least half burning. Otherwise, normal combustion may be disrupted and the unit will switch to smoke generator mode. Coal is poured into the stove when the wood has burned through 70–75%, having previously poked through the heat with a poker.

Video: Potbelly stove made from gas cylinders

As you can see, a potbelly stove made from a gas cylinder is a good option for repeating at home. Its production will require a minimum of effort and time. The presence of several modifications allows you to choose the most suitable design for yourself, and unpretentiousness to materials will make it possible to get a stove almost free of charge. Finally, I would like to remind you of the need to carefully handle the gas cylinder and carry out welding work - your health and safety depend on it.