Sequence of installation of gutters - installation step by step. How to install gutters if the roof is already covered, install the gutters correctly with your own hands, choosing the appropriate option. How to install gutters

This article is for home craftsmen who want to figure out how to properly install gutters on the roof, so as not to pay hired workers for what they can do very well themselves. After all, by and large, installing metal gutters is a real task. But there are nuances that only masters know about, and I am ready to reveal them.

Proper preparation is the main key to success

Do-it-yourself gutter installation, however, like any other work, always begins with careful preparation. For professionals, this has already been worked out at the level of instincts, but for a home craftsman, it’s better to take a sheet of paper and make a small plan for yourself.

Agree, it will be a shame if, in the midst of work, it suddenly turns out that some little thing is missing. Or worse, you missed an important editing step and will need to remove something to correct mistakes.

A few words about choosing a system

Since we are talking about how to install metal roofing flashings, it is worth saying a few words about what they are like:

The most common in this direction are roof gutters made of galvanized steel.

These tides come in 2 types:

Bare galvanized steel, that is, only zinc coating is applied to the metal;
Galvanized steel with polymer coating.

The price of these tides differs by at least 2 times. If bare galvanization will cost you about 150 rubles per linear meter, then the cost of a drain with additional high-quality polymer protection starts at 320 rubles per meter;

When you decide, keep in mind: bare galvanized steel in a big city will last no more than 10 years, since acid rain will simply eat it up. Therefore, it is only suitable for rural areas and country cottages.

Installation of aluminum pipes and gutters is in second place in popularity. Such systems all come with polymer coloring. Plus they weigh much less than steel ones. For a normal manufacturer, the price starts from about 700 rubles per month;

There are also copper tides. But to be honest, I have never seen anyone install copper roof gutters on their own. It’s not that it’s difficult or difficult, it’s just that they cost at least 900 rubles per 1m/p, and those people who have such funds can often afford to hire craftsmen.

How to calculate low tides

Before you make a roof drain, you also need to calculate what kind of drain you need personally in your case. In this case we are talking about the cross-section of pipes and gutters.

Buying the largest section with a margin is also not an option:

Firstly, on a small modest house, huge gutters will look, to put it mildly, ridiculous;
And secondly, their price is much higher.

First of all, we need to find out the effective or usable roof area. Here, most home craftsmen, like me at one time, step on the same rake.

We all went to school and know that in order to calculate the area of a flat figure, you need to multiply the length by the width. But this formula is not suitable for calculating the effective area of a sloping roof. After all, we are dealing with an inclined plane.

The effective roof area with your own hands is calculated using a different formula (shown in the diagram below).

There is a small nuance here. If your roof has an inclination angle of up to 10º, then its usable area is calculated using the formula A * C = S.

Having the usable area of your roof in hand, you can already look at the table and find out which pipes and gutters are best for you. But here, too, not everything is simple; you need to consider at what point in the gutter you are going to install the drain funnel with the drainpipe.

Keep in mind: when calculating the effective roof area, you do not need to count the entire area of your roof; data on the largest plane is sufficient.

Now let's look at an example of how the number of elements of a drainage system is calculated. Suppose we have a hipped roof 12x6m, with a gable extension in the center of the building 6x2m.

Installation of gutters should be done at an angle. On average, the angle of inclination varies between 1–3 mm per 1 linear meter of gutter. Naturally, the bias is made towards the drain funnel. But if the length of the gutter exceeds 10 m in a straight line, then the slope must be made from the center in both directions and 2 drains must be installed at the edges.

As a rule, most reputable manufacturers produce gutters 3m and 4m long. Our large slope is 12m long, so you need to install 2 funnels on it along the edges, therefore, a house will need at least 4 funnels with sets of drainpipes and bends.

According to the rules, 4 drains are enough for such a house.

But based on my own experience, I would install a couple more drains on either side of the central extension (they are shown with a dotted line in the diagram).

As a result, you need to take 10 pieces of gutters 3 m long and 1 gutter 4 m long, it will later be cut in half and installed on both sides of the extension;
There will be 4 external corners for such a system, plus 2 internal ones for arranging gutter turns next to the extension;
This entire structure will be based on suspensions; according to the rules, they are mounted at intervals of about half a meter, which means that 68 brackets will be needed for the entire perimeter;
The joints of the gutters and connections to the outer and inner corners are fixed with brackets with sealing rubber gaskets; in our case, 17 such brackets will be needed;
Our roof drainage system runs along the entire perimeter, there is a gap only in the area of the extension, therefore, we need 2 plugs there;
Drainpipes are also sold in 3m and 4m lengths. The number of pipes varies depending on the extension of the roof (the distance from the wall to the edge of the roof) and the height of the roof above the ground; when calculating, you need to round up;
But in any case, for the installation of each drain you will need 3 adapter elbows;
Drainpipes are attached to the wall with special brackets; they are also available for stone walls. The distance between the brackets varies in the range of 1.5 - 2 m.

How to install a metal drain with your own hands

It is not so important what kind of metal your system is made of; all metal gutters are installed according to the same principle. There are, of course, small differences in the models, but they are not so great as to indicate different installation methods.

Naturally, installing a roof drain is unthinkable without a minimum set of tools, in particular you will need:

Nylon thread to mark the level along the horizon;
Hydraulic level;
Screwdriver;
Roulette;
Hammer;
Pliers;
Bulgarian;
Hacksaw for metal;
Scissors for cutting metal, right and left;
Roofing sealant and a construction gun for it.

Before attaching the gutter to the roof, you need to consider several important details:

The roof slope should hang over the edge of the gutter by no more than a quarter, otherwise water will flow past the gutter during heavy rainfalls;

If you continue an imaginary line along the roof slope, then this line should not intersect the outer edge of the gutter. This option is dangerous because when the snow melts in winter, the snow mass can simply tear off your gutter.

Now let's move on to the question of how to attach the gutter to the roof.

There are 2 options for installing brackets:

According to the first option, the hanging brackets are attached directly to the roof rafters or counter-lattice on these rafters;

The second option is more practical; it involves installing brackets directly on the frontal board.

Personally, I prefer installing the gutter on the front board. In this case, you are not “tied” to the roof. If the brackets are attached to the rafters, then even with minor repairs you will have to dismantle the roofing along the edge, otherwise you will not reach the bracket fastenings.

Plus, rafter hangers are more expensive.

But this is my personal opinion; for those who decided to attach hangers to the rafters, I will give some installation tips:

To bend the hangers at the desired angle, you will need a strip bender;
To maintain the desired slope of the gutter, the brackets should be marked before bending. To do this, fold them together and draw a horizontal line 10 mm above the future edge of the gutter;
The hangers are mounted at intervals of half a meter, if we have 10 hangers in a package, then we measure 20 mm along the edge and draw a diagonal. This will indicate the bending points.

When bending the brackets, one more subtlety will need to be taken into account: the outer edge of the gutter should be approximately 2 mm lower than the inner edge relative to the horizon line.

When installing the brackets on the front board, there is no need to measure or bend anything; all this has already been taken into account at the factory. But we still have to maintain the required angle of inclination, so 2 hangers are attached first along the edges of the frontal board at a distance of 150 mm from the edge of the roof.

A nylon thread is stretched between these brackets.

In this option, it is more convenient to measure the angle of inclination using a hydraulic level:

First, the upper outermost suspension was secured;
after this, the fixation point of the lower suspension was marked with a hydraulic level;
secured it and pulled a cord between the two suspensions. This cord will become a guide for attaching intermediate suspensions.

First, a rubber gasket is inserted into the groove of the plug itself, after which it is put on the edge of the gutter until a characteristic click is heard.

But one rubber gasket is often not enough, so the joint will also need to be coated with bitumen-based roofing sealant. Please note that it is not silicone that is used, but roofing sealant.

Now we will need to cut a hole in the gutter for the drainpipe funnel and slightly bend the edges of this hole, making a so-called drip. It is better to make the hole in advance, while still on the ground.

Such a hole can be cut with a special crown inserted into an electric drill. But most often craftsmen do this with a hacksaw. First, the pipe is tried on and the gutter is marked, after which a sector in the gutter is cut out with a hacksaw.

To connect gutters on straight sections of the route, special seals are used. Before fixing this seal to the gutter, a rubber gasket is inserted into it. Please note that the gasket is inserted with the raised side facing the gutter.

The metal seal itself with a rubber gasket is first hooked onto the far edge of the gutter, then the bracket is put on the near edge, after which the lock on the seal snaps into place and is secured with a metal tongue. When the system is assembled, we need to go over all the joints from the inside with roofing sealant.

The metal funnel for the drainpipe has hooks on one side and several tongues on the other. We need to hook the funnel to the edge of the gutter from below, press it to the gutter and bend these several tabs inward.

Installation of a drainpipe is a separate issue. According to the rules, the vertical pipe should pass 5–7 cm from the wall. You can’t mount it closer, because the supporting brackets can get the wall wet. And if you move the pipe further, it won’t be beautiful.

The distance from the drainpipe to the wall of the house is 5 - 7 cm.

In the photo below there is another table, according to which the length of the pipes is calculated, and elbows and adapters are installed.

Many home craftsmen “stumble” on one little thing: at the top, immediately between the first and second drain elbow, as a rule, you need to insert a small sector of an inclined pipe. So, when you measure this sector, do not forget to allow for those parts of the pipe that will go into the elbow, this is approximately 4 cm on each side.

In general, our metal drainage system is installed. Now all that remains is to install one more elbow on the pipe from below; it is needed to compensate for the high water pressure. According to the rules, this knee should be 20 cm from the ground, but in practice it is installed as you like.

To install the upper inclined sector of the drainpipe, meter-long adapters are sold, in which one of the sides is equipped with an expander. The thing is convenient, but this meter of pipe costs 600 rubles, and in most cases up to half a meter is used, the rest is stored in a closet until better times.

There is a little trick here: we won’t be able to stretch the end of the trim and make the same expander; for this we need equipment. But we are quite capable of narrowing the pipe a little so that it fits into the elbow. To do this, take pliers and make bends around the perimeter, as in the photo below.

In a snowy winter, there is a fairly high risk of tearing off or at least bending the suspensions on the gutters. After such an accident, restoring the correct slope of the gutter is more difficult than installing a new gutter.

I borrowed a good technique from one experienced craftsman: each bracket is suspended from the edge of the roof using a metal strip. To do this, we make holes in the suspension itself and in the edge of the roof, attach a strip and fix it with rivets or self-tapping screws.

The biggest problem with absolutely all gutters is clogging with leaves and dirt. We can’t cope with dirt, but it’s quite possible to protect ourselves from large debris.

Now a special plastic mesh is sold for this purpose to protect gutters from debris. You cut the required length, roll the mesh into a roll and fix it in this position with plastic clamps. Then all you have to do is put this roll in the chute.

Conclusion

The home craftsman needs to pay special attention to two stages: detailed calculations and the actual installation of the system; in this material, these stages are described in detail. In the photos and videos in this article you will find a number of other professional nuances. And if you have any questions, write them in the comments, I will try to help.

One of the most important functions of the roof is to protect the attic and attic from precipitation. But, flowing along the roof slopes, the water inevitably transfers to the walls and foundation. The result of this is the rapid destruction of the load-bearing elements of the building structure. This action can be avoided by installing roof drainage systems.

System classification

There are two criteria for classifying a drainage system. They directly determine the installation technology. Depending on the manufacturing method, drainage systems can be industrial or homemade. In the latter case, we are talking about an object of handicraft production. What benefit can there be from this system? If a person has the appropriate abilities, a drain can be beautiful and unusual.

Setting up a homemade system does not involve significant costs. Among other things, the user can choose the scheme that suits him. Gutters are usually made of galvanized steel, so constant maintenance is required, and this is the disadvantage of the system. Among the disadvantages is the difficulty of joining individual elements.

Factory modifications meet all standards and necessary parameters. If necessary, you can join different elements supplied by the same manufacturer. Classification according to the material used assumes the presence of plastic and metal models.

Plastic system

There are adhesive and non-adhesive systems. In the first case, installation is carried out using glue . Plastic gutters have the following advantages:

The components are varied, so the drainage system can take on almost any configuration. This makes it indispensable for installation on broken roofs.

Disadvantages of gutters made of polyvinyl chloride:

The material tends to collapse under the influence of mechanical stress. That is why this kind of system is not installed on high-rise buildings. The plastic system can only be installed on low-rise buildings.
Unsuitable for repair. Destroyed components cannot be restored.
Increased linear expansion coefficient.
The need for periodic replacement of seals, which entails the assembly and disassembly of elements.

The installation is fixed with rubber seals.

The drainage system, equipped with a metal profile, has several varieties. There are galvanized and copper modifications. There is a galvanized version with a polymer coating. The key difference between them is the duration of operation and cost.

The positive qualities of metal gutters are strength and reliability, the ability to withstand significant snow loads and other environmental influences. They do not support combustion. Their operating temperature ranges from -60 to +130 degrees. Among the advantages is dimensional stability.

Metal gutters have the following disadvantages:

difficulty in installation;
small selection of colors;
rust formation if the protective layer is damaged;
significant weight of the system as a whole;
a small number of components, due to which installation can only be carried out on roofs with an angle of 90 degrees.

It is difficult to answer which system is more efficient, plastic or metal. It all depends on operating conditions and other factors. Whatever it was, the choice of system should be based on quality, not price.

System installation

The technology for installing drains includes selecting a system, purchasing materials and carrying out appropriate calculations. Depending on bandwidth systems, there are several drainage options. Let's say they can be designated in the form of numbers 100/75, 125/90, 150/110, which indicates the ratio of the diameter of the pipe and the gutter.

Each manufacturer has its own indicators. The configuration is also different. This is why you should not connect systems produced by different companies. A variety of systems is necessary so that each person can choose the modification that suits his needs.

Selection of drainage

To correctly select a water drainage system, it is necessary to become familiar with the maximum precipitation level in a particular region. After this, you need to calculate the area of the slope. This should be done not for all elements, but for the largest one. It is this size that will determine the choice of gutter.

If the building has a flat roof or a roof with a slope of less than 10 degrees, the effective surface area will be E1 = A * C. The result will be in square meters. After choosing a system, you need to determine its type and calculate the amount of materials. For this purpose, prepare drawings or diagrams of planes with dimensions. Thanks to them it will be possible to carry out calculations, and then installation of the drainage system.

Calculation of the drainage system

The important feature here is the gutter. It can be rectangular or semicircular. The purpose is to collect precipitation from the roof. Its length is from 3 to 4 m. It is fixed with brackets, which are fixed in increments of 60 to 90 cm. The drainage gutter must have a slope of at least 1 cm for every 3 m. The number in linear meters is equal to the perimeter of the base. In fact, this is the length of all surfaces on which the gutters of the drainage system will be installed. It is sold individually in 3 and 4 linear meters.

All obtained dimensions must be rounded to the whole length of the gutter. The smaller the connection, the simpler and installation is cheaper. The outer and inner angles of the gutter are 90 and 135 degrees, respectively. The corner gutter is designed to change the direction of water flow. It is mounted by fastening on the internal and external corners of the roof. A total of 4 external corners and 2 internal corners are required. They should all have 90 degree angles. If there are acute and obtuse angles, it is necessary to select a system in which these angles are absent.

A variety of angles can be made from a plastic gutter if you cut out part of the product and connect the halves at the right angle. The parts must be connected using glue, that is, by cold welding.

Gutter components

There can be from 5 to 17 connecting elements. It all depends on the installation features of a particular system. In most systems, the corners are fastened directly. But there are some examples where a connector is used for this. If the installation is carried out with glue, compensation and conventional connectors must be used. The first type is installed when the roof length is more than 8 linear meters. It can be installed without the use of glue. A connector is required to accommodate the linear expansion of the crack during cooling and heating.

Fastening hooks

These components are short and long. The latter are necessary for hanging the gutter on the rafters and are secured before installing the roofing material. The first ones are short and are used to fix the gutter on the front board. Accordingly, the components can be installed on a finished roof covered with roofing material. The fastening hook is installed at intervals of 60 cm. An obligatory step is the installation of funnels and plugs at the joints and near the corners.

Vertical drainage requires a drainpipe. They can have a round or rectangular cross-section. Designed for vertical liquid drainage. The bracket is necessary for attaching the pipe to the wall. According to the method of fixation, a distinction is made between the stone method, when the element is fixed on a concrete, stone or brick base, as well as installation using hardware. The third method involves fixing it to wooden walls using self-tapping screws.

Depending on quantity funnels determine the number of pipes. If, say, there are 4 of them, then 4 places will also be required to install the pipes. In linear meters, their length corresponds to the total length of all walls along which installation is carried out. Pipes are sold in lengths of 3 and 4 linear meters. Rounding up is possible since joints on the pipe are undesirable. That is, if your house has a height of 3.5 m, then you need to buy a pipe 4 m long. Half a meter from here will be spent on waste and other needs. Pipe fasteners are installed every meter. Their installation near the knee is mandatory.

Plastic drainage system

To install a polyvinyl chloride system, it is necessary to install drainage funnels on the roof. There are stormwater, water intake and roofing systems. This is followed by the installation of brackets. The gutter fasteners, which are located as close as possible to the funnel, are installed at a distance of 2 cm from it. They serve as a holder. The angle of inclination relative to the funnel is 2 degrees or 4 mm per 1 m. It is very convenient to check the inclination with a nylon thread. If the wall has a length of 10 to 20 m, it makes sense to install the gutter in the following ways:

Simple method. It is also called direct. The funnel is installed at the end of the slope.
Double slope. It is drawn from the middle of one plane to the middle of another.

In the first case, the middle gutter is located at the highest point. Due to this, water moves to the funnels that are located at the corners of the building. In the second case, the two outer gutters are at the highest point. For this reason, the water moves towards the funnel located in the middle between them. Sometimes the length of the gutter exceeds 22 m. Three funnels and a more powerful system are installed here.

At the next stage, they are mounted gutter connectors of regular and compensation type, if necessary. The connectors are installed between the brackets at the same distance from them.

The gutter is placed on brackets that are adjacent to the funnel, taking into account the linear expansion of the plastic.
It is necessary to drill holes for the funnel in the correct place. To do this, use a special drill attachment - a crown.

Some manufacturers mark the funnel so that installation can be simplified. That is, the temperature scale is indicated on the side. By comparing it with the temperature outside, the gutter can be installed at the desired level.

The funnel is an element that does not require glue during installation. If this is provided, a sealing rubber is placed at the point where it adjoins the gutter.

The next step is the installation of the gutter connection. When laying it, the connector must be smeared with glue or the joint must be sealed with an elastic band. No adhesive is required to install the expansion connector. To ensure that water flows in the right direction, it is better to install a so-called teardrop at the end of the drain pipe. The installation of corners and plugs for the gutter is carried out using a similar scheme.

Installation of the corner and plugs is carried out using glue and sealing rubber bands. Clamps and downpipes are secured in the next step. Holes for fastening the clamp are drilled at the design state. The installation of the pipe is preceded by installing the elbow or pipe into the funnel. The use of a rubber seal or glue is mandatory. But they are not required for downspouts.

The pipes are secured using a clamp installed in holes drilled in advance. After this, a plastic molding is installed. It must be installed so that water does not destroy the foundation of the house. You can make it conduct water into the drainage system channel or into a corresponding well.

Currently, traditional metal gutters are increasingly being replaced by modern plastic systems, which are considered more practical and reliable. Although all previous installation stages are retained during installation, much less time and effort is spent on this.

Features of polyvinyl chloride drainage

From a constructive point of view, a plastic drainage system is practically no different from a metal one. Products produced in industrial conditions are equipped with the same set of components intended for arranging horizontal and vertical branches.

The procedure for assembling and installing gutters includes the same number of steps and a similar sequence of operations. At the same time, during the manufacture and installation of PVC structures, it is impossible not to take into account the specifics of the material of manufacture. Polymer-based products usually exhibit characteristic dimensional instability that is dependent on temperature fluctuations.

When plastic parts are heated, they elongate; cooling helps to return to its previous geometric dimensions. Gutters that are used outdoors will be cooled in winter and heated in summer. As a result, they either lengthen or shorten. Trying to maintain the linear dimensions of polymer products in a stable state is practically useless. You simply have to adapt to this phenomenon, taking it into account during the design and installation of gutters.

PVC drainage circuits are equipped with special compensators and connectors. With their help, fluctuations in the sizes of its individual components are achieved harmlessly for the system as a whole. Thus, it becomes possible for them to move in one direction or another.

Polymers also have another important property, which requires mandatory consideration when installing plastic roof gutters (more details: " "). The point is that PVC products of a certain length begin to sag and deform if support is not provided under them. To avoid sagging of sufficiently flexible plastic gutters, special holders are mounted under them with a pitch of at least 60 cm.

If this is not done, there is a high probability of sagging of horizontal sections in the spaces between the supports. This phenomenon is usually provoked either by one’s own weight or by the load from precipitation. As a rule, the places where the deflections begin to gradually become overgrown with dirt and accumulate water. When frost sets in, these areas become especially dangerous, as they can burst from freezing.

How to assemble and install a drainage system

Installation work on the construction of PVC gutters is carried out in a strict sequence of individual operations.

A short list of operations carried out in this case is as follows:

Drafting. A simple scheme is being developed that takes into account the optimal parameters and number of main components of the drainage system. It is also important to consider mounting components.
Assembly and installation of the water intake. It consists of a gutter and a funnel designed to receive precipitation. The water intake part collects them from the roof, directing them along the drain risers.
Assembly and installation of the drainage system. It consists of drainage risers, the task of which is to direct water flows to the desired part of the blind area or inside the storm drain.

The installation of gutters always starts from the top, moving downwards. This implies the first assembly and installation of the water intake part, to which the drain risers are subsequently connected. As work progresses, it is important to observe a strict sequence of installation stages. The reason for such scrupulousness lies in the technological specifics of the system and the technical features of the manufacturing material.

When developing a project for arranging a drainage system, it is important to strictly adhere to certain technological requirements: only in this way can high-quality removal of precipitation from the roof surface be achieved.

The following must be taken into account:

Optimal shape of gutters. On gable roofs, two separate gutters are most often installed. To equip hipped structures, a continuous type gutter consisting of several parts is used. Its construction is carried out using corner connecting elements.
Number of risers. The risers of polymer gutters are installed every 12 m. If the gutter, which usually follows the size of the eaves, is longer than 12 m, you will need to use a pair of risers. In this case, standard water inlet funnels are supplemented with a compensating funnel.
The feasibility of using compensating funnels. They are usually used in cases where the total length of the gutter exceeds 12 m, or when technical difficulties arise with expansion (usually due to the walls of neighboring buildings, if they are located end-to-end). In addition, compensating funnels are often equipped with a continuous drainage system along the perimeter of the roof.
Selection of gutter holders. Installation of drainpipes is carried out using hook-shaped brackets of various lengths. Long holders are attached to the sheathing before the covering is laid. Fixing short elements on the frontal board can be done at any convenient time. This is often done upon completion of roofing work.
Gutter slope. This parameter is affected by the brand of the system used. Manufacturers usually recommend a slope of 2-5 mm, based on 1 linear meter. The slope should be constructed in the direction where the water intake funnel is located. For these purposes, brackets offset in height are used.

It is strongly recommended to determine the installation points of the risers at the design stage. At the same time, the visual perception of the exterior composition should not suffer. Most often they are mounted on the corners of the building. Another option for their placement could be a niche created by a bay window or the center of the wall: this is done in cases where the receiving point of the storm sewer system is located there.

If atmospheric water is discharged onto the blind area, then the risers must be placed so that pedestrian paths, ventilation vents and entrances to basements are not affected. Designing drainage systems for frame buildings is a more complex task, since it will require the orientation of vertical lines along the load-bearing frame posts. The same applies to buildings covered with siding.

How to calculate drainage elements

Determining the required number of elements required for the construction of a drainage system takes into account the characteristics of each specific case. Increasingly, when constructing private houses, they try to use original designs, which leaves a certain imprint on the calculation of roofing and drainage systems. However, certain calculation templates make the calculations much easier.

There is a very simple scheme for calculating the drainage of a gable roof, where the length of the slopes does not exceed 12 m:

Gutters. Their footage should correspond to the length of the cornices. The linear thermal expansion of these elements will not encounter any obstacles, so the parameters of compensatory expansions can be omitted in this case.
Trough connectors. Since the gutters are 3 m long, each 12-meter line is equipped with 3 connectors.
Pair of funnels. By the number of gutters.
Brackets. To calculate the number of hooks, you need to divide the length of the cornice into equal parts, not exceeding 60 cm. Before this, you will need to make an indent of 50 mm from the edge.
Additional brackets. The funnel installed on the corner of the building is equipped with another additional holder. If the funnel is placed in the center of the wall, two such holders will be required.
Two pairs of gutter plugs. Each branch is decorated with two plugs.
Upper and lower knees, 2 pcs. Riser outlets are constructed from them.
Two short pipes to connect the knees. They are used if the eaves overhangs exceed the parameter of 25 cm. Pipe sections are measured and cut at the installation site. If the width of the eaves overhang is less than 25 cm, the knees are connected directly to each other.
Pipes for risers. To determine their length, measure the distance from the eaves to the ground. In this case, the length of the drainage outlet and drain is subtracted. The ground surface and the riser must be separated by at least 20 cm.
Mounting brackets. Two of them are required: one - on the lower bend, the second - on the riser drain. The remaining fasteners are used to form each connection of the drainage system, in increments of at least 150 cm. Read also: " ".

To calculate the drainage diagram of a house with an attic, the same method is used. The same applies to equipping multi-tiered pitched roofs with drains, where each slope is calculated separately. To determine the number of elements and fasteners for half-hip and hip roofs, you will have to face additional difficulties. In this case, you will need to purchase at least four corner parts and two expansion joints. Compensating and connectors function on the same principle as linear elements. However, in this case, such compensators must be installed in each closed circuit.

At this same stage, it is necessary to determine the diameter of the future structure. Gutter components are produced in a number of standard sizes to avoid overflowing as precipitation is drained. As technical recommendations state, each m2 of roofing should be equipped with drainpipes with a cross-section of 1.5 cm square. This coefficient is averaged for the central regions of our country. To accurately select the standard size of the drainage system, you first need to determine how much roof area one funnel can serve. Since private houses rarely have a slope area of more than 80 m2, most often pipes with a cross-section of 100 mm are used to install gutters, with the possibility of adjusting this parameter in one direction or another.

Installation of drains, gutters and pipes using an example

For ease of understanding, it is better to look at a specific example in which the drain is mounted on long metal brackets after laying the roofing material. Thanks to the use of cement tiles, it is possible to dismantle the bottom row of installation.

In our case, the installation of gutters of the drainage system will be carried out on two separate slopes 12 m long. The gable overhangs in this example will have a width of 50 cm. The funnel is mounted in such a way that the riser attached to it is 10 cm from the corner.

First, the long brackets are fixed:

Perform preliminary fitting, with the extreme holder attached to the installation site.
Fold line drawing. In this case, the roofing covering should extend onto the gutter by approximately 1/3. Once the required point is found, the bracket leg is equipped with a mark.
Determination of inclination in relation to the funnel. If it is necessary to slope each meter of the cornice by 3 mm, the total height is determined by multiplying 3 mm by 12. The resulting parameter of 36 mm shows the difference in the height of the bends on the extreme hooks.
Drawing a fold line. This is done by laying out the required number of brackets in one line, with an inclined line on their legs.
Numbering of marked brackets.
Bending of gutter holders. The easiest option is to use a vice. Work must be carried out carefully to avoid damage to the anti-corrosion layer.
Fastening the two outer holders to the surface of the sheathing.
Stretch one or two control lines between them. One of them is used to indicate the bottom, the second indicates the top points.
Installation of the remaining brackets along stretched lines.

This stage is the most difficult. Next, prepare the gutter and funnel for installation. To do this, a fitting is carried out on the section of the gutter on which the riser will be attached using a funnel. To determine the exact location for making the hole for the funnel, it is placed over the gutter.

After outlining the contours of the funnel with a marker, the niche is cut out using a hacksaw, followed by cleaning the cut edges with sandpaper. To secure the funnel to the gutter, special snap-on sides are provided.

We build a drainage riser

First, you need to assemble the transition between the horizontal and vertical sections of the drainage system. If there are narrow cornices, it is enough to connect the upper and lower bends.

Wide cornices will require additional work:

Connecting the funnel pipe to the upper elbow using the adhesive method.
Additional fitting. It is carried out by applying the lower knee to the installation site. To determine the distance between the knees, use a ruler.
To calculate the total length of the connecting section, add the distance between the elbows, the height of the nozzle of the upper elbow and the height of the counter part of the lower elbow.
Cutting and cleaning the material.
Transition assembly. It is important to mark the point where the upper clamp fits. After this, the adapter is disassembled again to install the clamp. During final assembly of the clamp, all its parts are coated with glue.
Marking the locations of the riser clamps. To connect polymer drainpipes, couplings are used, each of which is equipped with a separate clamp.
Docking of riser elements. In this case, you need to move from top to bottom. When installing couplings, leave 10-15 mm inside the sockets for compensatory expansion.
Tightening the clamps. This should not be done very tightly - the pipes should be able to move.
Installing a drain on the down pipe. For this, waterproof glue is used.

When diverting rainwater into a storm drain, the riser does not need to be equipped with a drain. In this scheme, the pipe is simply left above the sewer water intake at a distance of 50-100 mm. To prevent the system from becoming clogged, the top of the gutters are covered with gratings. There is also an option to install protective nets on funnels.

System Information

Calculation procedure for Döcke gutters
*Calculation should be done for each eaves overhang separately

Gutters
N gutters = L ÷ 3.0 m
Corner element
N corners = Number of gutter corner connections
Brackets and extensions
A) mounting on plastic brackets: N plastic. bracket = L ÷ 0.6 m + N cornice. overhangs
B) mounting on metal brackets or using extensions: N brackets (N extensions) = L ÷ 0.6 m + 2N funnels +N extensions
When using extension cords, you must additionally purchase plastic brackets in quantities according to option A
Stubs
N caps = (N eaves overhangs - N corners)x2
Elbow 45° or 72°
N elbows = 2 x N funnels
Funnels*
N funnels = S slope ÷ 50 m2 (but not less than one per slope)
N connect. gutters = b ÷ 3.0 - 1
N tips = N funnels
Funnel protective mesh*
N grids = N funnels
Pipes*
N gutters = H walls ÷ 3.0 m x N funnels
Coupling*
N connect. couplings = (H walls ÷ 3.0 m - (N elbows ÷ 2) -1) x N funnels
Clamp*
N clamps = H wall ÷ 1.5 m + 1

b- Length of one eaves overhang, m

L- total length of cornices, m

S- Area, m2

H- Wall height, m

N- Quantity, pcs

The calculation is indicative and requires clarification depending on the architectural features of a particular building

General provisions

Option with a frontal plate, mounted on a plastic bracket
The brackets are placed at the level of the cord stretched between the end bracket and the funnel. The height difference between the end points of the cord should provide a slope of up to 3 mm per linear meter.

Option without frontal plate, mounted on a metal bracket
This option is used for roofs with a small sheathing pitch. The height difference is ensured by bending the bracket at the calculated location. The distance from the end of the supporting part of the bracket to the bending point should decrease as the intermediate bracket moves away from the final one.

Option without frontal plate, fastening with an extension and a plastic bracket
This option is used for roofs with large sheathing pitches. The fold lines of all extensions are at the same distance. The slope is ensured by moving the plastic bracket along the extension. The bend point should be no closer than 10 mm from the mounting point of the bracket clamping plate or no closer than 10 mm from the end of the slot in the extension.

2. Ensuring the optimal position of the elements relative to the roof

The roof overhang is located above the gutter at a distance of 1/3 to 1/2 of its diameter.

The required gap between the roof continuation line and the upper part of the bracket of 25 - 30 mm is ensured by bending the final metal bracket (extension) or moving the plastic bracket.

3. Ensuring stability from deformation under vertical load

The distance between the gutter brackets should not exceed 600 mm.

The funnel must be fixed at two points (or on two brackets/extensions)

The gutter connector must be secured to the water point (or to one bracket/extension).

The end of the corner element should be located no more than 150 mm from the nearest bracket.

The distance from the plug to the nearest bracket should not exceed 250 mm.

4. Ensuring compensation for linear temperature expansions

The gutter must be installed into the mating elements up to the line marked “Insert so far.” For ease of installation, point stops are formed along the edges of the line, until contact with which the gutter is inserted.

The distance from the end surface of the plug to the structural elements of the house must be at least 30 mm.

5. Ensuring the system is sealed

Before installation, you should clean the mating surfaces from dirt, make sure that there are rubber sealing gaskets and that they are tightly installed in the sockets. The spacers should extend to the ends of the sockets.

All plugs must be installed.

The ends of the gutters should protrude beyond the side section of the roof by 50 -100 mm.

Mounting features

To secure the gutter in a plastic bracket, you must first insert the edge of the gutter closest to the front board into the bracket clamp. Then, lowering the gutter into the bracket receiver and pressing firmly on the opposite edge of the gutter at the clamping point, insert the edge into the clamp until it clicks.

When attaching to a front board, it is necessary to strengthen the connection between the board and the roof to prevent it from being pulled out when loaded with snow.

The brackets are attached to the roof structural elements.

To secure a gutter, funnel or connector in metal brackets, you must first place the edge of the gutter closest to the roof under the hook of the bracket, lower the gutter into the receiving socket of the bracket and fix the opposite edge of the gutter by bending the clamping bar.

Metal extensions are used for long pitch sheathing and are attached to roof structural members.

On metal extensions, the gutter is fixed in plastic brackets.

When using an extension, the plastic bracket is secured with a bolted connection, which allows you to move the bracket when adjusting the slope of the gutter. A bolt (with a semicircular head) M5x30 is inserted through a washer into the upper central hole of the bracket, passes through the slot in the bracket and is tightened with a nut after the plastic bracket is positioned in the required position. A washer and a spring washer must be installed under the nut. The outer diameter of flat washers must be at least 15 mm. The spring washer is installed between the washer and the nut. To avoid vertical movements, the bracket is additionally fixed to the extension through the lower hole either with a bolt (M5x30 + 2 washers) with a hex head, or with a short self-tapping screw.

The funnel and the gutter connector are attached with a bolted connection (M5x30 + 2 washers) directly to the connector. The funnel is fastened with two bolts, and the connector with one.

The pipe and fittings are secured using a universal clamp. The installation location of the clamp is highlighted in red.

There are two possible fixation methods:

Pipe: fastening with slipping, on the side surface of the clamp there is the inscription “Pipe”.

Fitting: fastening with rigid fixation, on the side surface of the clamp there is the inscription “Fitting”.

The base of the clamp is screwed with a self-tapping screw (diameter M6, length from 50 mm) to the wall of the house. The clamp arms are inserted into the base until it stops. The clamp is tightened with a bolt with a semicircular head (M5, length 40 mm) and a nut.

Installation sequence

Installation of a catch basin

Install end bracket 1 taking into account clause 2 of the “General Provisions”.

Install funnel brackets 2 . For the option with a frontal board, a funnel 2 attaches without brackets.

Hang the slope of the gutter from the end bracket to the funnel bracket. For the option with a frontal plate - from the cavity of the end bracket 1 to the bottom edge of the funnel cut 2 .

Install gutter connector brackets 3 . For the option with a frontal board - install the connector itself 3 .

Connector 3 or its bracket is installed taking into account clauses 1 and 3 of the “General Provisions”.

Distance between funnel centers 2 and connector 3 should not exceed 3080 mm.

Install intermediate brackets 4 taking into account clause 3 of the “General Provisions”.

Secure the funnel 2 and gutter connector 3 on fastening elements (bracket, connector). For the option with a frontal board, a funnel 2 and connector 3 mounted without brackets.

5 and connect them to a funnel 2 and connector 3 .

Cut the gutter to the required length 6 and place it on the connector and end bracket.

Repeat the operations for the adjacent side of the roof (bracket 7 , gutter 8 ).

Install in gutters ( 8 And 6 ) gutter corner element 9 .

Cut the gutter to the required length, 10 insert into the free hole of the funnel 2 and put on the plug 11 . If the length is more than 200 mm, an additional bracket must be installed 12 .

Put on the plug 13 to the open end of the catchment.

Insert the mesh into the funnel 14 .

Installation of a spillway

Push it onto the drain hole of the funnel until it stops. 2 coupling or elbow 15 , depending on the characteristics of the installation site. Secure the coupling or elbow 15 on the funnel 2 self-tapping screw.

Assemble the required configuration of the figured part of the spillway. (Knee 15 , Pipe section 16 , Knee 17 ).

When assembling the figured part of the spillway, you must adhere to the following requirements:
Fittings ( 15 And 17 ) in the figured part of the spillway are connected to each other only through an intermediate section of pipe 16 and secured to the pipe section with self-tapping screws.

Attach a universal fastening clamp to the wall of the building 19 , supporting bottom fitting 17 the figured part of the drain (the “Fitting” position). Secure the fitting in the clamp.

Put on the pipe 18 all the way to the micro protrusions (Insert so far mark) of the bottom fitting 17 figured part of the spillway.

Place the pipe vertically. Insert the lower end of the pipe into the coupling 22 . Mark the mounting locations of the clamps in the middle of the pipe 20 and opposite the place where the clamp is attached to the coupling 23.

Secure the clamps to the building: clamp 20 in the “Pipe” position, clamp 23 in the “Fitting” position. Secure the pipe and coupling in the clamps.

Cut off the end piece of pipe 21 required length. Push it all the way onto the micro protrusions (mark “Insert so far”) of the coupling 22 .

Insert the lower end of the pipe into the nozzle, set it vertically and mark the location of the clamp installation 25 opposite the clamp attachment point on the tip 24 . If the length of the pipe section exceeds 1500 mm, it is necessary to additionally secure it in the middle with a universal clamp (in the “Pipe” position).

Secure the clamp 25 on the building in the “Fitting” position. Secure the pipe with the coupling with a clamp. It is possible to attach the tip to the pipe with a self-tapping screw. In this case, the distance from the tip to the nearest clamp should not exceed 50 cm, and the clamp itself is set to the “Fitting” position.

Self-tapping pin M6- 1 piece

Nut M6- 2 pieces

Washers Ø15- 2 pieces

During installation, it is necessary to drill a hole with a diameter of 10 to 12 mm on a flat section of siding.

Screw in the stud 1 through the center of the hole into the wall of the house (to a depth of at least 40 mm.) If the wall is not wooden, it is necessary to install a dowel. The screw part should protrude 20 mm above the siding.

Screw the nut onto the screw part of the stud 2 flush with the siding surface. Put on the washer 3 with a diameter of 15 mm.

Place the clamp support on the pin 4 . Screw the nut from inside the clamp support until it stops. 5 with washer 6 with a diameter of 15 mm.

Place the clamp in the desired position (“Pipe”\”Fitting”). Tighten the nut 2 under the clamp support until it stops with a wrench.

For marking: tape measure, pencil.

To install the brackets: cord, hose level, spirit level.

To attach the brackets: screwdriver, drill, screwdriver.

To bend metal brackets: bending machine.

For cuts: hacksaw, saw with a wide blade, miter box.

Purpose of elements

Gutter connector with rubber seal

Protective mesh (Clear Tube)

Plug (universal)

Corner element 90° (universal)

Plastic gutter bracket

Features of operation

Döke gutters do not require special care; only periodic inspection and cleaning is sufficient.

It is advisable to clean the gutter, mesh and pipes themselves (for example: with water from a hose).

When cleaning the gutter, do not rest the ladder on the edge of the gutter.

The drainage system is an integral part of any building. It protects its facade from moisture that accumulates and then flows down the roof. Today, the elements of such systems are made of various metals, including copper, and various types of plastic.

A do-it-yourself drain can be made from any material, since the installation instructions are the same for everyone. This is due to the fact that they have the same structure, regardless of the material used to make their individual elements.

Step-by-step installation instructions

Like any other process, this one requires some consistency. Therefore, the best option would be to consider the entire process of assembling plastic or metal gutters in stages. It all starts, as usual, with preparation. To do this, a system diagram, or plan, must be prepared. Then calculations are carried out on it, and material is purchased according to the calculations.

When all this is done and all the material is already available, then you can begin the actual installation.

Installation of fasteners

Do-it-yourself gutter installation begins with installing brackets. It must be said right away that today the industry produces a wide variety of different types of brackets. The choice will depend mainly on where you plan to mount this bracket:

Rafter system;
Wall.

Advice! The brackets need to be fastened so that their center line is slightly inclined. 5 cm for every 10 meters will be enough. This will allow you to later install a gutter sloping towards the drain pipe.

If the length of the gutter is more than 20 meters, then it is recommended to make two slopes of 10 meters, respectively, and there will also be two drain pipes.

The brackets should be mounted at a distance of 50-60 cm between each other. Very often this situation arises: the brackets are planned to be attached to the rafters, and they are located at a distance of 120 cm. At the same time, the holders themselves need to be attached every 50-60 cm. In this case, they do it very simply - use two different types of holders. In this case, some must be mounted on the rafters, and others on the walls.

Installation of funnels

The installation of a drainage system involves the installation of water inlet funnels. These are elements that serve to receive water from the gutter and direct it into the drain pipe.
It must be said right away that funnels are attached only at the places where drain risers are attached, which should be clear from the above.

Among other things, funnels often serve as connectors for plastic gutters. In this case, you need to start working with them.

To do this, special holes are cut in the funnels, in the places where the gutter will be attached to them, and the edges are cleaned after work. Glue is used to attach plastic funnels.

After all these procedures have been completed, the funnel is equipped with a special mesh that will not let various debris into the drain pipe.

Working with gutters

Gutters, like the pipes themselves, can be either rectangular or round. Depending on this, the necessary fasteners for them are selected. Since such clamps were discussed a little higher, now it remains to be said that the gutters are simply inserted into them.

Those edges that remain unused are closed with special plugs.

Advice! plugs should only be purchased with rubber seals. If there are none, then you should make such a seal yourself.

Gutter connection process

If the gutters are connected not through a funnel, then this can only be done using a special additional element called a connector. It is put on the two ends of different gutters and fastens them, forming a key connection.

The elbow can be rectangular or round depending on the shape of the funnel. In general, before installing a drainage system, you should decide on its material, its shape and other parameters.

So, the knee fits directly onto the funnel from below. The elbow is needed to direct the drain pipe towards the wall. This will allow you to secure it with special clamps. The knees can have different angles.

Installation of risers

So, after the elbows have been attached, you can begin installing the risers. This is quite easy to do. First, the riser is attached to the knee from below. Then it is secured with clamps. After this, another one is attached to the installed part of the pipe, if necessary, that is, in the case when the height of the first part is not enough.

How to work with clamps

Separately, the issue of clamps should be considered. It must be said right away that different elements are used for brick and wooden facades. However, as a rule, the clamp consists of two arcs, which are placed on the riser from two different sides and then fixed. Fixation is carried out using two bolts, which are fixed at the ends of the arches.