Hiking in Morocco. Winter hiking in Morocco. Mountain hiking in Morocco: features

• Meet the most memorable and unusual New Year in life
• Visit Africa
• Swimming in the Atlantic Ocean
• Climb Toubkal, North Africa's highest peak
• Admire the sands of the Sahara
• Visit real oases
• And many, many more interesting things

Program cost $490

• The tour price includes:
• Services of a Russian-speaking guide and guide;
• Three meals a day on the route;
• Use of boilers and gas equipment;
• Renting crampons for climbing Toubkal;
• Group first aid kit;

• The price does not include:
• Air travel;
• NS insurance;
• Transfers along the route;
• Accommodation in hostels;
• Food in cafes and restaurants;
• Tips for the guide (not required, but he will be glad to receive them);
• All expenses not specified in the program.

Payment order

Payment for the hike is made to the instructor on the first day of the hike in dollars.

Friends! When traveling to Africa, be sure to take dollars issued in 2006 or newer. 2003 and 90's dollars are not accepted! Thank you for your understanding and new dollars to everyone :)

Changes in the program

Depending on weather conditions, condition and general wishes of the group, the instructor has the right to make changes to the route.

Weather

At low altitudes in January in Morocco the temperature is very comfortable - about + 20. Of course, it will get colder as you gain altitude.

Required documents, visa

A visa to Morocco is not required for Russian citizens, but citizens of Ukraine and Belarus need to apply for it in advance at the embassy.

To participate in the hike, you must have no diseases that are incompatible with active tourism: .

Upcoming trekking dates in Morocco with climbing Toubkal

New Year in Morocco with climbing Mount Toubkal

Day 1. Group gathering in Marrakesh

Day of meeting and preparation. The group meets in Marrakech. Those who arrive earlier can take a walk around the city and adapt a little to the African January heat. That's how he is! We spend the night in a hostel.

Day 2. Marrakech - Imi Ouglad - Ousertik (3 km trek)

In the morning we get ready and go to the village of Imi Ouglad, where our journey through the High Atlas begins. An hour and a half drive will be interesting and unnoticed, as colorful landscapes of African mountains with small Berber settlements in the valleys will constantly unfold outside the windows. We spend the night in the Ousertik river valley, which is located just a couple of kilometers from the village, behind the hill. Don't forget - today is magical New year's night, so let's wish for everything lucky. Just don’t tell anyone about this so that your wish comes true;)

Day 3. Trek to Tashshedir (13 km)

Throughout the day we walk along a mountain stream up to the highest village in the Atlas Mountains - Tashshedir. Along the way you will also meet many picturesque local settlements, which fit original among the remote mountain slopes and green banks.

Day 4. Likemt Pass (9 km)

Today we need to overcome the Likemt pass, 3555 meters high. A long and difficult path that opens us up to a beautiful view of Mount Toubkal, climbing which is the main goal of our hike in Morocco. Having rested and admired the unsurpassed scenery, we go down to the river valley, where we will stop for the night.

Day 5. On the way to the Amsouzert oasis (14 km)

The path to the oasis lies among the deserted, waterless slopes and gorges of the Atlas Mountains. Therefore, you need to stock up on water in the morning for the whole day. Only towards evening the fertile greenery of trees will appear on the horizon. Isn't this a mirage?

Day 6. Oasis Amsouzert - Lake Infi (7 km)

After two difficult transitions, today will be spent “relaxing” - we will climb a little up to the mountain lake Infi, which is located at an altitude of 2300 meters and is the only natural reservoir in the Atlas Mountains. We’ll set up camp on the shore of the lake and relax until evening, enjoying the silence and living area among the empty mountain slopes.

Day 7. Pass n`Ouanoums - foot of Toubkal (12 km)

Having rested and gained strength yesterday, we are ready for new exploits. Today we have to overcome the n`Ouanoums pass (3664 m), the path to which lies through a steep mountain gorge. It seems that just a little more - and we will already be able to climb Toubkal. But for now the top is separated from us by steep cliffs. From the pass we go down to the foot of the mountain, where there are many shelters for tourists from different countries who have come here to climb Toubkal, the highest point in North Africa.

Day 8. Climbing Toubkal (12 km)

This is a difficult and important day of our hike, so we get up early in the morning, have breakfast and move to our goal - the top of Mount Toubkal (4167 m). It is a must to have crampons, as the slopes at high altitudes are often covered with ice. The ascent itself will take us 3-4 hours. At the top, an unsurpassed panorama of the High Atlas mountain range and the great Sahara Desert opens up.

Day 9. Reserve

In case of bad weather, we have one reserve day. So, if yesterday the ascent was not successful, today there is every chance to make your dream come true. It’s not for nothing that we’ve come such a long way.

Day 10. Foothills of Toubkal - Imlil village (10 km)

Well, the walking part of our New Year's hike in Morocco is almost over. All that remains is to go down to the village of Imlil, from where we will take a bus to Marrakech. And there is already a shower, and a cafe, and the Internet, which we already miss so much!

Day 11. Marrakesh - Essaouira

We promised you the opportunity to swim in the Atlantic Ocean. Therefore, today we are going on a tour of the ancient city of the “blue boats” - Essaouira. We walk around the city, visit the main attractions, relax, swim in the ocean.

Day 12. Essaouira - Marrakesh

We return back to Marrakesh and fly home. New Year in Morocco was a great success!

IMPORTANT!

The guide has the right not to allow you to participate in the program if your equipment does not correspond to what is recommended on the site. For example, if instead of mountain boots you took sneakers or rubber boots.

Please be as responsible as possible when packing your equipment. Not only your health, but also the comfortable passage of the route by the group as a whole depends on this!

WE RECOMMEND 🔔

When packing your backpack, put all your things in plastic bags (you can use trash bags), this will protect them from getting wet in case of heavy rain or snow.

On a hike, there is nothing worse than a wet sleeping bag; put it in the strongest bag that will definitely not tear. Also, pack warm clothes, especially down ones, very carefully. Stay dry and enjoy the adventure!

Trekking equipment

Cloth:

• Headgear - cap, buff, panama
• A cap
• Lightweight gloves
• Membrane jacket or windbreaker
• Membrane trousers
• Walking pants
• Fleece (warm jacket)
• Thermal underwear set
• 2-3 T-shirts
• Shorts
• Swimsuit
• Socks - 4-5 pairs
• Trekking boots
• Sandals or light sneakers
• Raincoat

Personal equipment:

• Backpack 60-80 liters
• Small backpack for climbing (optional)
• Raincover or rain cover for both backpacks
• Sleeping bag with a comfort temperature of 0°C
• Seat - optional
• Trekking poles - optional
• Sunglasses
• Sunscreen (at 50 SPF)
• Head Torch
• Personal first aid kit
• Chapstick
• Hygiene items - soap, shampoo, toothpaste, toilet paper
• Towel
• Money and documents hidden in a sealed bag
• Camera
• Mobile phone
• Charging device for them or spare batteries

We invite you to spend the New Year holidays on a big trip to Morocco! We have developed the route in such a way as to reveal all the many facets of this amazing African country, to combine both a purely “hiking” component and a cultural and educational one. We will walk through the narrow streets of the medina of Marrakech, bargain in the colorful and noisy souks of Essaouira, see ancient and majestic fortified cities, climb high mountains, ride camels through the desert and swim in the Atlantic Ocean. At the beginning of the trip we will go to the High Atlas Mountains, which divide Morocco into the northern part with a mild Mediterranean climate and the arid southern region, where the Sahara Desert originates. There we will climb to the highest peak of North Africa - Mount Toubkal (4167 m), from where we will see the beginning of the world's largest desert. Contrary to popular belief, only one quarter of the Sahara is covered by sand, while the rest is dominated by dry, rocky soil. Sandy areas are called “ergs”, and we will go to one of these ergs after the mountainous part of our trip. We will walk with a caravan of camels through the desert and spend the night in the middle of the sands in the camp of the Berbers - the indigenous population of North Africa. After hiking through the desert, we are greeted by the majestic Atlantic Ocean and Legzira Beach, one of the most beautiful in the world. If desired, it will be possible to extend the main program for two days and visit Casablanca, Rabat, Fez and Chefchaouen - the famous sky-colored city. The hike took place successfully on January 1-12, 2019. New dates will be published soon. . The instructor also took interesting notes throughout the hike. Notes published in our VKontakte group. You can find them using the hashtag “Morocco”

Route type	Duration	Route complexity	Hiking dates in 2019
Combined	12 days (main program) + 2 days (optional, additional program)	Simple. Average physical fitness required.	January 1 - 12 (main program)

Brief itinerary:

Day 1. The group meets at 18:00 at the railway station in Marrakech. Transfer to the village of Imlil. Meeting and overnight in a riad (traditional Moroccan house).
Day 2. Radial access to the highest village of Morocco - Tasheddirt - through the Tizi n'Tamatert pass (2400 m). Return to the riad and prepare your equipment.
Day 3. Early rise and trek to the mountaineering shelter Jebel Toubkal. Overnight at the shelter.
Day 4. Radial exit to Lake Ifni via the Tizi n’Ouanoums pass and return to the shelter.
Day 5. Climbing day. Rise at 3:00 am and climb to the top of Mount Toubkal. After the ascent, we send our things down on mules and return lightly to Imlil. Overnight in a riad.
Day 6. Transfer to the Todra gorge. Walk and overnight at the hotel.
Day 7. We move to Merzouga, where we transfer to camels and at sunset we go to an oasis deep in the desert. Overnight in tents in a Berber camp.
Day 8. We get up early in the morning to watch the sunrise on the highest dune, after which we go by jeep back to Merzouga. Transfer to Ait Benhaddou. Overnight at the hotel.
Day 9. Photo session in the dawn rays in the fortified city of Ait Benhaddou. Transfer to Legzira beach to the ocean. Overnight at the hotel.
Day 10 Walk to the far arches of the beach along the ocean shore. Rest, swimming. Overnight at the hotel.
Day 11. Transfer to Essaouira via Agadir, visit to the production of argan oil. Walk around Essaouira and overnight at a hotel.
Day 12. Purchase of souvenirs at the market and at 12:00 departure to Marrakech. End of the main program.

Additional program (you can join if you wish):
Day 12. Early in the morning we depart through Casablanca and Rabat to Chefchaouen, a city of heavenly color. In Casablanca we will visit the famous lighthouse, and in Rabat we will see the Hassan Minaret.
Day 13. Walk around the city of Chewchaouen, visiting the Kasbah castle in the center of the medina (old city) and the highest point of the city.
Day 14. Moving to Fes - the cultural capital and the most ancient city Morocco. Walk around the city, visiting leather workshops and famous dyehouses.

Detailed travel plan:

Day 1 (January 1) Marrakech – Imlil. On Tuesday, January 1 at 18:00, all participants and instructors meet at the Marrakesh train station. Here a bus will pick us up and take us to a small village at the foot of the High Atlas Mountains - Imlil (height - 1750 m). The journey will take 1.5 – 2 hours. After checking into a riad - a small hotel in ethnic Moroccan style - we will check our equipment and have dinner traditional dish called "Tazhin". Almost all tourists begin their climb to Toubkal or trek through the High Atlas Mountains from Imlil, so if necessary, equipment can be rented right here. Almost all Moroccan houses have access to the roof, where you can comfortably enjoy sunrise and sunset views. Overnight in a riad. The temperature in January in Imlil during the day in the sun averages +15, and in the evening it can drop to zero, so warm clothes can come in handy here.

Day 2. Imlil - Tamatert pass - Tasheddir village - Imlil. Breakfast at 8:00, after breakfast we get ready and go light to the highest mountain village in Morocco - Tasheddir (2454 m). The path runs through the Tamatert pass, where there is even a small cafe where you can relax and drink traditional mint tea or freshly squeezed orange juice for only 10 dirhams (about 65 rubles). In Tasheddir we will have a snack and a short walk, during which we can see in all its glory the local color and way of life of the Berbers (the indigenous population of North Africa) living at the foot of the mountains. The road from Tasheddir to Imlil and back is about 20 km in total - this distance is covered every day by schoolchildren from Tasheddir who study in Imlil. Towards evening we return to the riad, adjust the crampons to our boots, prepare the equipment that will be useful to us on the climb and that which we will leave at the hotel. We continue to get acquainted with local cuisine.

Day 3. Imlil – Toubkal Shelter. Breakfast at 7:00 and departure to the shelter at 8:00. Those who wish can send the load up with mules and go light. The shelter is located at an altitude of 3250 meters above sea level; in a day you will need to gain approximately 1500 meters. On average, the journey to the shelter takes 6 hours. Depending on the weather, we will walk in snow for about half of the way. Along the trail there are many Berber shops where you can buy freshly squeezed juices, hot tea, soda, plain water and souvenirs. We strongly do not recommend drinking from rivers and streams that come along the way, boiled drinking water you need to stock up in advance. The Toubkal shelter is one of the most comfortable high-rise shelters in the world, it has heating, a kitchen, running water and a small store with the basics. In addition, the shelter has a fireplace, where you can chat with travelers from all over the world in the evening. Accommodation in shared large rooms from 8 people. A hot, hearty traditional dinner with fresh fruit will especially please you after a long climb up the mountain.

Shelter Toubkal

Day 4. Toubkal Shelter – Ifni Lake – Toubkal Shelter. First of all, this day is designed as a reserve day in case of bad weather for the ascent, but if the weather is good, then we can’t sit idle! Depending on the situation, the weather forecast and the well-being of the participants, we can spend this day according to the following scenarios:

1. Favorable weather forecast for both days (day 4 and day 5) or “maximum” program– training in self-restraint skills on a slope using an ice ax and a radial acclimatization trip to Lake Ifni, the pearl of the Atlas Mountains. The climb is 400 meters, the total mileage there and back is 16 km. This climb will allow us to get a good full acclimatization before the assault, so that we can feel good during the ascent. Also, this exit will allow you to see all the beauties of the famous trekking route “Around Toubkal” in comfortable conditions without large backpacks and unnecessary fatigue. If someone needs to regain strength after climbing to the shelter, there is the opportunity to stay in the camp and give themselves a full day of rest in order to storm the summit with new strength. Going to the lake is not necessary for acclimatization.

2. Bad weather forecast for day 4, but good forecast for day 5– we conduct self-restraint training with the help of an ice ax, and otherwise this day turns into a full day of rest for the whole group before climbing to the top of Toubkal.

3. Good weather forecast for day 4 and bad weather forecast for day 5– in this case, get up at 3:00 in the morning, have breakfast and go to the summit. More details in the description of day 5.

4. Bad weather forecast for both days– this happens extremely rarely in Morocco, but it is still possible. This situation will be resolved by agreement with the entire group.

View from the top

Day 6. Imlil – Todra Gorge (Tinghir). At 9 o'clock we get on the bus and go through the city of Ouarzazate to the Todra Gorge, which is loved by climbers from all over the world for its steep 300-meter walls with beautiful terrain and for its wonderful climate. The journey will take 8-9 hours, including stops and lunch at a cafe in Ouarzazate. Upon arrival, we check into a hotel.

Todra Gorge

Day 7. Todra Gorge (Tinghir) – Merzouga – Oasis in the desert. In the morning, those interested can try their hand at rock climbing under the supervision of guides, go on an excursion, walk through the gorge, or sleep longer. At 12 o'clock the bus takes us to the village of Merzouga, on the road to which we will spend about 3 hours.

In Merzouga we have lunch and transfer to camels, and then go deep into the desert to an oasis in the middle of the sand dunes. The oasis is equipped with tents with beds for overnight stays and a dining area under a large awning. The evening program includes a traditional dinner, a bonfire, songs with a guitar and Moroccan drums. It will be quite cold in the desert at night, so don’t forget to prepare warm clothes.

Day 8. Oasis in the desert – Merzouga – Ait Benhaddou. Early rise. We get up in the dark around 5 am in order to have time to climb higher on the dune and watch the sunrise in the middle of the desert. Jeeps pick us up from the desert and take us back to Merzouga for breakfast. After breakfast, we return to the bus and head to the ancient fortified city of Ait Benhaddou, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The journey will take about 6 hours. On site we check into a hotel and go for a walk around the filming locations of such iconic films and TV series as “Game of Thrones”, “Gladiator”, “Lawrence of Arabia”, “Alexander” and many others. The narrow corridors of the fortress streets look especially beautiful in the dawn and sunset rays, and we will have the opportunity to enjoy these views to the fullest. Overnight at the hotel.

Ait Benhaddou Fortress

Day 9. Ait Benhaddou – Agadir – Legzira. Those who wish can go at dawn for a photo shoot, and everyone else can enjoy a rare luxury on our trip: sleeping longer in the morning. But at 8:00 breakfast is ready, and at 9:00 it’s time to move on.

After the mountains and desert we finally reach the ocean. Our next destination is Legzira Beach, the journey will take 8-9 hours, including a stop for lunch in Agadir. We will get to the place already in the dark, so we will leave the walks to the famous arches for tomorrow, but for now we can watch the endless starry sky, which goes to the horizon of the ocean, to the sound of the waves. From the Moroccan rooftops this view is especially mesmerizing.

Day 10. Legzira. Today is a day of leisurely walks and relaxation on the beach. The water temperature in January is usually no more than 10-12 degrees. Breakfast at 10:00, departure for a walk to the distant arches at 11:00. Legzira beach is known primarily for its stone arches; two large arches were within walking distance to the beach infrastructure, but one of them collapsed in September 2016. To reach the distant arches, you need to walk about 5 kilometers. It is recommended to try tagine with seafood on the ocean shore, and in Legzira we will have the opportunity to verify the veracity of these recommendations.

Day 11. Legzira – Agadir – cooperative for the production of argan oil – Essaouira. This morning we will go to best places to buy souvenirs. Argan oil (from the argan fruit) is one of the most expensive cosmetic and culinary ingredients because... has many useful properties for the human body. There are many fakes sold throughout Morocco, so you should only purchase argan oil directly from the manufacturer from sellers with a special license. Our next destination: Essaouira - another ancient fortified city, but this time on the ocean. Hollywood left its cinematic mark here too, filming several episodes of Pirates of the Caribbean. Essaouira's medina boasts 12th-century buildings and its streets are home to one of the best souks in all of Morocco, with a lush variety of goods and accommodating, charismatic sellers. We recommend that you bargain until the last minute for the product you like, because... local merchants will always increase the price for tourists several times. We check into a hotel and have a farewell tagine dinner with seafood. For those in a hurry to get on the plane, it is possible to organize a transfer to Marrakech on this day (this must be notified in advance).

Essaouira - the city of blue boats

Day 12. Essaouira – Marrakech. If you didn't buy enough souvenirs the day before, you'll have another chance to do so before we take the bus to Marrakech at 12:00. This concludes our main travel program. If you plan to fly from Marrakech on the same day, then you should buy tickets no earlier than 18:00. Although we would recommend staying an extra day to stroll around Jema El Fna Square and the medina (old town). So the picture will be complete! End of the main program.

But if you don’t have enough impressions, and there are still a couple of days before the end of your vacation, then you can extend your trip to Morocco with us for a couple of days and visit the cities of Casablanca, Rabat and Chefchaouen.

Additional program:

Day 12. Essaouira – Casablanca – Rabat – Chefchaouen. Part of the group is leaving for Marrakech, and we are again preparing for an early rise - we will have to finish our dreams on the bus, because today we have a long road ahead. Breakfast at 6 am, departure at 7:00. Along the way, we will look at the lighthouse in the city of Casablanca, look at the famous Hassan II Mosque on the ocean, and then we will pass through the capital of Morocco - the city of Rabat and walk through the Hassan Minaret. After Rabat we will reach our destination - the blue city of Chefchaouen, where we will arrive only towards late evening. Overnight at the hotel.

Chefchaouen - the sky-colored city

Day 13. Chefchaouen
In the morning, from the roof of the hotel you can admire the stunning blue city hidden in the heart of the mountains. We will have the whole day to walk around the narrow streets of different shades of heavenly tones, visit the Kasbah castle and look at the whole of Chefchaouen from the highest tower of the fortress wall. If after this we still have a lot of strength, we will take a walk to one of the surrounding mountain peaks.

Day 14. Chefchaouen - Fes. You will spend 3 to 4 hours on the road. Our program ends with the city of Fez, a record holder in several categories. Morocco's oldest city, largest medina (old city) and largest mix of cultures: Byzantine, Arab, Portuguese, French and Spanish. It is not for nothing that this city is considered the cultural capital of Morocco. First of all, we will visit leather workshops, where they still process leather using old technologies, after which they make high-quality products and clothes from it. The smell in leather workshops is so strong that it is difficult to stay there for a long time even with the sprigs of mint that are handed out at the entrance. Towards sunset we will climb the hill to the ruins of the Merinid tomb, from where we have a beautiful view of the whole of Fes. Overnight at the hotel.

This concludes our entire extensive program. If you want to catch all of its points, Air tickets from Fez should be booked no earlier than 22:00 01/14/2019.

List of required equipment:

Large tourist backpack or trunk (to fit all personal belongings)
- assault backpack (30-40 l)
- sleeping bag with negative temperature comfort
- trekking poles (optional, but they are more convenient)
- light slippers or sandals (optional)
- sneakers or other comfortable casual shoes
- trekking boots
- gaiters
- thermal underwear: pants + jacket
- fleece jacket + pants
- storm pants + jacket (membrane, wind and moisture protection)
- down jacket (jacket with down or synthetic insulation)
- light fleece gloves
- thick gloves or mittens
- 2 pairs of warm socks, several pairs of walking socks (cotton or special trekking socks)
- T-shirts, underwear
- casual wear
- swimsuit, swimming trunks, towel
- sunglasses (lens darkening degree 3-4)
- buff or light balaclava
- fleece or wool hat
- sunscreen (protection 50+)
- personal hygiene products, personal first aid kit
- headlamp and spare batteries for it
- a liter water flask (or plastic bottle)
- thermos (optional)
- KLMN (mug, spoon, bowl, knife)
- personal “go-to” snack (several chocolate bars)
Climbing equipment:
- crampons - their necessity depends on the condition of the route. Cats can be rented in Imlil or in our club (limited number).
- safety system (harness) - for those who want to go rock climbing in the Todra Gorge (optional).

Accommodation:

In the cities we will stay in private guest houses in traditional Moroccan style, called “riads”. We will have dinner and breakfast in our riads.

In the mountaineering shelter we live in large common rooms for 16-20 people. The shelter has heating, cold running water, a toilet, and it is also possible to use a shower for a fee. The price includes a blanket, but we recommend spending the night in your own sleeping bags.

In the desert we will spend the night under a roof in Berber tents for 4 people. The tents have beds and blankets, but we recommend spending the night here in your own sleeping bags.

Nutrition:

All breakfasts along the route are included in the tour price. If you like to eat a lot for breakfast, then one Moroccan breakfast will most likely not be enough for you. A traditional breakfast usually includes scones with butter, jam, preserves and honey, eggs in different options cooking, tea or coffee, orange juice.

With the exception of days 3, 4 and 5, our lunches will take place in a cafe during transfers, so they are not included in the tour price. average cost lunch ranges from 5 to 10 euros; in total for the entire trip, additional food costs will range from 50 to 100 euros.

All dinners are included in the tour price. We will always have dinner at the same place where we stay overnight. A traditional Moroccan dinner, as opposed to breakfast, is quite hearty; the first course is soup, the second is tagine (traditional meat baked with vegetables in a special bowl), flatbreads, tea and finally fresh fruit.

Cost of the trip:

Cost of participation: 790 euros (main program 12 days), 190 euros (additional program 3 days)

What is included in the price of the main program (12 days):

– accommodation in riads, shelters and campsites throughout the route
— transfers between cities according to the route program
— breakfasts and dinners throughout the route
- lunches and snacks during mountain program(3,4,5 days)
– escort by mules from the shelter to Imlil (day 5)
– rental of climbing equipment in the Todra Gorge
– camel ride in the evening in the desert (day 7)
– jeep ride from the desert in the morning (day 8)
- work of instructors
- group first aid kit

What is included in the cost of the additional program (+2 days):

– transfer along the route: Essaouira – Casablanca – Rabat – Chefchaouen – Fes
– Accommodation in Chefchaouen (2 nights) and Fez (1 night)
— Breakfast
- dinner in Fez
– visit to the observation deck in Chefchaouen
– visit to leather workshops in Fez
- work of instructors
- group first aid kit

What is not included in the price:

- airplane tickets
— pocket expenses, souvenirs, lunches in cafes, excursions not included in the travel program
— lunch on the road on day 12
– lunch and dinner in Chefchaouen on day 13 (for participants of the additional program)

Possible additional expenses:

– lunches in a cafe (from 5 to 10 euros per lunch. 50-100 euros for the entire trip)
– taxi costs from/to the airport (10-15 euros)
— surfing on the coast after the end of the main program (from 40 euros/day for the all-inclusive program or from 10 euros/day for the work of an instructor)
- souvenirs (depending on your bargaining ability)

Payment and booking:

You can pay for your participation in the trip to Morocco in full directly to the instructor on the first day of the trip. No later than a month before the start of the hike, you must confirm your participation - make an advance payment of 5,000 rubles. The remaining amount is paid in euros on the first day of the hike directly to the instructor.

Early booking system:

If you reserve a place in a group and make an advance payment in advance, the cost of the tour for you is significantly reduced. In this case, you can always return your prepayment according to ours.

Features of climbing Toubkal:

Toubkal is the highest mountain of the Atlas Mountains, which are located in the north of the African continent. Height - 4167 meters above sea level. A trained person can climb to such a height without lengthy acclimatization. The ascent is not technically difficult and corresponds to the minimum mountaineering category - 1B at any time of the year. There are two paths leading to the top along wide and relatively flat couloirs. Several times both paths cross large screes and small rocky outcrops, otherwise they are well trodden and easy to read. Depending on the season, of course, the temperature and nature of the route changes.
In summer, trekking boots and poles are enough to reach the top, but the main disadvantage is the daytime temperature. Don’t forget that even though it’s northern, this is still Africa, and the sun is very hot here. On the way to the shelter during the day the air can warm up to 40 degrees. In autumn, the heat subsides and the climb becomes more comfortable, but it all depends on the weather. At the beginning of November, a stable snow and ice cover appears on the way from the shelter to the summit, which requires climbing crampons to move along. The temperature at night at an altitude of 4000 drops to an average of -5, so for the ascent you need to stock up on warm clothes. In winter, Toubkal is similar in weather, temperature and list of equipment for climbing to summer Elbrus, the main differences relate to height, acclimatization and slope angle. In spring, climbing is similar in weather and temperature to autumn. As a rule, there is no avalanche danger along the entire route, but in any case you always need to look at the state of the route at a particular point in time and make decisions based on this.

• Russian citizens do not need a visa to Morocco - only a foreign passport is required.
• It is better to buy plane tickets, as always, in advance and immediately to Marrakesh. It happens that you can find cheaper tickets to Casablanca, but the difference is worth the travel and time costs. The normal price for tickets is from 15,000 to 20,000 rubles. for "round trip"
• The easiest way to get anywhere from Marrakech airport is by taxi. The airport is located within the city limits not far from the train station, so a taxi should not be expensive (a ride to the train station costs on average 30 MAD or 3 euros). Tourists will initially be quoted completely different prices, but the main thing in this country is not to forget to bargain.

It is best to fly with Air France. Under no circumstances should you fly with TransAvia.

• If you are flying to Casablanca rather than Marrakech, the easiest way for you to get to the group meeting point is by train. The train takes 4 hours and costs 10 euros. Casablanca Mohamed V International Airport is located outside the city, and local Aeroexpress trains operate between it and Casablanca. At the airport railway station you need to take tickets to Casa Voyageurs station (5 euros), and from there trains depart to Marrakech. Don't go into town by taxi! (because the price for such a trip will be 30-50 euros)
• Walking and accommodation in Marrakech first day is not included in the program plan, so we advise you to plan your time so that you still have the opportunity to walk around the city. Our guides are ready to help you book hotels and excursions, and will also suggest the most interesting places. The cost of living in Marrakech per night is approximately 10 euros.
• If you forgot something in Moscow, but only realized it on the plane, it doesn’t matter! There is Decathlon in Marrakesh and you can buy something there if necessary.
• Morocco is a Muslim country, but, nevertheless, it is very loyal to other cultures.
• After the main program of our trip, there is the opportunity to stay by the ocean at a surf school for the rest of the vacation. Cost from 40 euros/day including accommodation, meals, Russian-speaking instructors and travel.
• A standard taxi car in Morocco can legally take no more than 3 passengers. If there are more of you, then you need to look for a car with a larger interior, which are also often found in cities.
• Alcohol throughout Morocco can only be purchased in large supermarkets, in specially designated areas or in rare specialty stores. By law, stores are only allowed to sell alcohol until 20:00.

3 reviews

Amazing trip!
I have long dreamed of visiting Morocco, but the reality exceeded my expectations. A really quite serious mountain (question from my friends - are there mountains in Morocco?!), even if it’s snowy only in winter, but that’s exactly what happened to us. I don’t even regret the crampons and climbing boots that I had to drag from Moscow just for this one climb. An ocean with ebbs and flows, because of which you cannot return to the hotel along the beach, having gone to admire the gorgeous natural arches, and you go around almost the same mountains, scaring away grazing sheep and taking pictures with cacti! Desert, camels and a moon-boat, unusual for our eyes. And the starry sky? What about sandboarding on the dunes? And then there are goats that climb trees better than cats! And the Arabic patterns and bright colors of the bazaars with carpets, ceramics, and leather goods? And what about riad hotels with their rooftop terraces where you can spend wonderful evenings? And the beloved blue and blue colors of Chefchaouen, stop photographing which lacks any willpower? There is also the harsh metropolis of Casablanca with a beautiful mosque against the backdrop of the ocean and slums located nearby; the picturesque fishing port of Essaouira, whose territory is divided by harsh groups of seagulls and cats; the sleek capital of Rabat with a chic, well-groomed embankment and colorful horse guards at the entrance to the ancient Hassan Tower and the mausoleum of Muhammad V. And the ancient fortress of Ait Benhaddou, which is a real movie star - more than one film was filmed here? Completely different pictures, different nature, a sea of ​​emotions! We remember well the spartan local breakfasts of flatbread with honey, jam and butter and luxurious dinners with tagines, in which they cook meat, chicken, and fish (my personal favorite with octopus!) .. And camembert for snacks on a hike?! We didn't have much time! This despite the fact that we had an additional program! Of course, not everything was perfect, there were some hiccups due to circumstances beyond our control, we also met different people, at some point we had to slightly adjust the program, but it’s more interesting this way! Our wonderful guide Konstantin perfectly resolved any situation. Thank him very much for compiling this program, for the excellent pace for the girls when climbing Toubkal, for advice on where to eat better, where to buy souvenirs, and other issues that we had to solve even before meeting him, since my friend and I We arrived a day before the start of the program. And yes - if suddenly... I recommend asking him to take a guitar on the trip! :-)))) Thanks to all the participants of our trip! I don’t like to throw around such phrases, but it was one of the best trips of my life!

Traveling to Morocco was the most vivid and unusual adventure for me! As soon as you step off the plane, you immediately find yourself in another world. An ocean of sounds, smells, colors. I was very impressed by the ornaments everywhere! And my dream also came true - I was in the desert! I saw huge dunes and rode camels! We can talk endlessly about Morocco, it is very diverse, stunning high mountains, endless deserts, huge canyons. This route includes everything, we saw Morocco from all sides and from different angles! This is a must see! Memories to last a lifetime!

I wanted to write a review as one of the pioneers of this trip, but I realized that even three months after our frenzied trip, the emotions have not subsided, and I am still literally choking on impressions. What exactly should I talk about? About it? About that? About something else? If you are deciding whether to go or not, I will tell you this: “you should definitely go.” In my opinion, this is much more interesting than the civilized and sleek countries of Europe, from the very beginning you are bombarded with such an insane range of sounds, colors, tastes, smells, such a ton of untouched authentic oriental flavor and an unfamiliar culture and way of life that is completely alien to you, that the senses They just don’t have time to record everything.

We invite you to the most colorful country of Morocco! The program includes trekking in the Great Atlas Mountains, an easy climb to the highest peak of northern Africa, Mount Toubkal (4167m), a tour of the original Marrakech, the fortified port city of Essaouira, and swimming in the Atlantic Ocean. Price: about 47 thousand - all expenses, including flights. Dates: from October 26 to November 6, 2016.

PLACE

Here are a few items from the list that should be given special attention:

If you are going to the top, you need good trekking boots. It is highly desirable that they be tall. They don't have to be cat-like.

Gaiters may also be very necessary.

It is important to have a warm sleeping bag (comfort temperature minus 5 or lower): frost is likely at night at altitude.

Feel free to contact us for any questions!

VISA

Russian citizens do not need a visa to visit Morocco, only a foreign passport, which will be valid for another six months after leaving home.

NUTRITION

Breakfast and dinner during trekking are included in the price. Products will be purchased for everyone. Let's cook together.

Sample menu: for breakfast - rolled oats with dried fruits and nuts or muesli, for dinner - rice with legumes, dried vegetables, spices and herbs, sausage, cheese, pasta. At the very beginning of the hike - fresh vegetables and fruits. If you have any wishes or suggestions, we can discuss them, preferably in advance.

Participants independently purchase small supply of food for a midday snack while going out. These can be energy bars, muesli bars, kozinaki, snickers, chocolate, nuts, dried fruits, etc. according to individual preferences. A good option are, for example, Bite bars, which are sold in Perekrestok. You shouldn’t take a lot so as not to carry too much.

WEATHER

The weather at this time is usually the most comfortable. During the day, trekking can be warm, but not too hot, around 20-25 degrees, but at night in the mountains it can be quite cold, so it is better to have a warm sleeping bag (comfort minus 5 degrees or lower) and a supply of warm clothes. There is also a chance of rain.

The greatest amount of rainfall in Morocco occurs from mid-November to mid-December. Our Ukrainian-Russian group met on December 30 to begin a hiking trip across Africa. In 12 days, only once did the sky lose its bright blue color. At this significant moment, we were already in Casablanca and preparing for the flight home.

I have trusted friends and comrades who have more than once kept me company on hikes. TO New Year's holidays my work resource was depleted. I really wanted to get out somewhere. We were even planning to go to a mountain camp, but Lena successfully suggested Africa. It’s lucky, because in January there are not many places where you can go for an outing without constantly fighting the wind and cold. It so happened that Kilimanjaro, the highest point in Africa, had already been conquered by Lena, but none of us had been to the High Atlas Mountains. Guiding logic.

Participants of a hike under the blue sky. I took a photo.

Surprisingly, I didn’t find any direct flights from Moscow to Marrakech. All flights were with transfers. Someone was flying through London. We were passing through Istanbul, where we somehow had to spend 11 hours waiting for a flight to Casablanca. We met Gosha at Ataturk airport. He flew in from St. Petersburg and even went to meet us, but due to a flight delay we missed each other. The Istanbul airport at that time resembled a New Year tree from Prostokvashino: people of different nationalities and outfits whiled away the time on the branches of the corridors and passages. I didn't want to take a shower in a camping way. There was no shower at the airport, which was somewhat disappointing. Someone saw a room from which men were coming out with towels and assumed, but as it turned out, this was a room for washing feet before prayer. Gosha scouted out the wonderful gate 211, which was located in the distance and was almost empty. We dozed in it until the morning. Turkish Airlines, which served both of our flights on the way to the starting point, performed admirably. There was a computer built into the back of the opposite chair. We played chess online, watched films (the Russian track is present in many), followed the flight through the camera on the nose of the plane, and looked at the map. So we landed in Casablanca slowly.

Migration cards were handed out on the plane. Among the graphs there is a place to live, which is perplexing if you are going to live in tents. They indicated the hostel where the group was meeting. The wait for luggage was painfully long. Folding back the rubber eyelashes of the conveyor, one could see small trucks with bags driving into the small courtyard. Luggage is mercilessly thrown onto the belt, where it periodically gets stuck. Then one of the workers reluctantly clears the rubble from the suitcases. The workers are in no hurry to turn on the machine if for some reason unknown to me the electricity has disappeared. There was a feeling that no one was in a hurry there at all. The fuss was created only by local men who were paid by one of the tourists to fish out their luggage. These comrades were quite actively turning over the bags, checking the tags.

With luggage in hand and the feeling of a long flight in our heads, we headed to the train station, which is located in the same building as the airport. It is enough to follow the signs a little to see the usual board with the track number and train number. Tickets can be purchased at the station. There is no direct train to Marrakech. We took tickets from Mohammed the Fifth Airport to Casa Voyageurs and from Casa Voyageurs to Marrakech. The first part of the journey costs 90 MAD, the second - 40 MAD.

Let's spend a little time going over some basic information. MAD is the international designation for the Moroccan dirham. There are countries where they willingly accept dollars or euros on an equal basis with the local currency. For example, in Antalya you can easily pay for breakfast in euros. Not so in Morocco. Dirhams only. I haven't seen any exceptions. The country has a constitutional monarchy. Currently, King Mohammed the Sixth reigns. The son of the same Muhammad the Fifth, whose name the Airport is named. Portraits of the current king are everywhere, and Allah forbid you somehow publicly express a bad attitude towards the royal family. We have not tested the consequences, but we were warned against it. Continuing with abstract topics, it makes sense to think about the word casa. Casa is a house, a dwelling. I came across this word among the Romans and Egyptians. Casa Voyageurs, accordingly, means "house of travelers." This is a big station. There are many paths branching off from it. You will see the word casa quite often in various applications. The second word in the name of the station should suggest the colonial influence of France. This is true. The people we met usually spoke at least Arabic and French, although French is not an official language, but Berber is. English is spoken in all key areas, but be prepared to run out of luck. For this case, we had the magical Lena, who knew French, which was a big help on our trip. I advise you to take care of the minimum set of phrases. You should be able to at least ask for directions to a populated area, expected travel time, cost of the service, with whom and when to pay, availability of hot water. But the latter is far ahead of the story.

At the White City station we met Sylvie and helped her with a large suitcase. Sylvie lives in the USA and is currently working on her startup. As you understand, we were doomed to talk about work. Sylvie is vacationing in Morocco; she also has a very active program. I didn’t want to wait for the train at the station, because there were no conditions for this. We decided to have a snack. Here the colonial heritage said hello for the second time. The first three cafes only offered juice and coffee. No problem. Having gone a little deeper, we found a local shawarma, which is called shawarma. We put large backpacks together. I'd like to see a man who could run away with something like that. But the small backpacks had to be shifted. Paranoid Pasha and I noticed two guys looking at each other from around the corner, nodding at their backpacks. All our thoughts and assumptions remained thoughts and assumptions.

It's much more fun to sit at the station with shawarma in your stomach. The train did not arrive on schedule. As it turned out, this is normal. The delay was small, about 25 minutes, but in an unfamiliar place you start to fuss. The carriages come in first and second class. There are six seats in first class. Three is opposite three. In the second, four is opposite four. There are also carriages with a seat arrangement similar to the Moscow Aeroexpress, this is exactly what we rode in for 40 minutes from the airport to the transfer point, but we did not understand how to classify such carriages.

A non-terminal station, even a large one, is a disaster: people do not fit into the places allotted to them and take up all the available space. Gosha, Lesha and Sylvie, I occupied most of the vestibule, blocking the entrance to the toilet. Pasha and Lena did not immediately, but were able to sit down. The drive had to take three hours. There were four going. A young guy, just a schoolboy, was riding in the vestibule with us. The schoolboy had a fashionable haircut, wore a leather jacket and was smoking a cigarette. With Sylvie’s easy suggestion, he even sang to us. We found out what the locals sing on long trips. We came across French rap. Smoking is free in the vestibules. They move between cars constantly. The doors are opened at any time the train is moving, people smoke from the steps for the sake of air and effect. The schoolboy said that he was going to Marrakech, but jumped off at some intermediate station. Perhaps he was afraid of the control that walks around the train and even looks into the toilet. We saw a policeman and some poor fellow with a bandaged hand. They sat down somewhere in the middle of the journey and soon got off. Riding in the vestibule is an average pleasure. Sylvie was sent to fill another vacant seat. We arrived in Marrakesh when the Sun had already gone down. It gets dark here early.

From the station we needed to get to the Kif-Kif hostel. Think about the scheme public transport I didn’t want to, so we decided to take a taxi. The pre-trip newsletter said that a taxi would cost no more than 100 dirhams. We found a taxi-bunch. Small minibus. Lots of space for the small size of the car itself. We walked 100 meters with the driver. The cost increased to 150 dirhams due to the allegedly large backpacks, which were not hidden from the very beginning. We agreed on 120. To get the cost in rubles, multiply by 6. Not a lot of money for everyone. I’ll just say that a week later in Marrakech we went for 20, three of us, and 60, five of us. Even the official taxis weren’t completely dealt with, but they didn’t go for 100 anymore.

Car traffic in the cities of Morocco resembles another movement - Brownian. Everyone moves chaotically, with beeping and other expressions of emotions. Signs are observed selectively. There are traffic controllers, but very few; we have seen them only in prestigious places, where they serve a rather decorative function. Very old cars, very new ones, and very new ones are driving on the roads at the same time. expensive cars, bicycles, horse-drawn carriages, donkeys and countless motor scooters. The hostel is located in the Medina - the old part of the city. There are almost no cars driving there due to the narrowness and winding of the streets. But everyone else drives, performing incredible maneuvers on the verge of stuntmanship and common sense. The car stopped near some narrow fork. I quickly walked around a couple of bends in the street to make sure I was heading in the right direction. The sign with the name of the hostel reassured me. He returned, paid, and walked down the street. Even before the hostel it was still a labyrinth. I even doubted whether we were going there. One of the locals accompanied us. I was afraid of such farewells, because here they are ready to ask for money for any movement, but in in this case everything worked out humanly.

We stopped at a blue door with the number nine lined with push pins. Doors in Morocco are a special thing. They are almost all made of wood and have unique carvings and other decorations. Nowhere else have I seen such a variety of unique doors. In Moscow and St. Petersburg you catch them one by one, but here is mine small collection the finds immediately lost their value. The door opened, a few words came out in an incomprehensible language, the door closed. Our guide said that they had no places, but he would show us another place. The other one didn’t suit us; they had to wait for us here. In addition, Booking also works in Morocco, places were reserved in advance. The repeated attempt was successful.

The only source of natural light- a shaft in the middle of the building. The photo was taken by Georgy Gerasimov.

There were many people in the room with colorful sofas and low tables. Among them, by their large boots and map, those who made up the other part of our group were easily guessed. Signed yourself in the guest book. Please fill in all columns with real names. At other places of our stops, according to similar books, both Messi and Batman were with us. The Kif-Kif hostel is good only for its price; everything else about it is inconvenient even for a hostel. We had all the top beds in one of the rooms where some other people lived. And, of course, according to an unknown Moroccan tradition, there are no hooks or shelves in the room. I suspect that our late arrival and early preparations had a hard time for other residents. This is the charge for all occupied lower beds. Having left our backpacks and rinsed off in lukewarm water, we came to get acquainted. For a group of 12 participants, there were as many as 3 people from the organizers. I will write separately about what a commercial trip with the organizers is; this is distantly related to the topic of traveling to Morocco. Let's stop at the fact that the leader of the group, Sergei, was bending over the map. I joined him and soon learned that almost nothing was left of our original route due to several avalanches. Unusual snowfall for Morocco. IN last years I hear so often about abnormal snowfalls that it’s time to reconsider the norms. Perhaps it will make things easier for everyone. The new route was a loop and an ascent to Toubkal (4167 meters). The idea of ​​using donkeys to transport part of the cargo had to be abandoned. As we were told, the donkeys would not be able to walk through such snow and cold. I'm used to carrying all my food and equipment on myself, so this didn't bother me. Closer to the night, it turned out that three participants in the hike had not arrived at the starting point. This meant we had extra food and possibly tent space. Why this happened and how to avoid such situations is a topic for the same separate story about commercial trips.

They sleep on the roofs, dry them, grow them, place them solar panels and water tanks... The photo was taken by Georgy Gerasimov.

The morning began with exchanging currency in the local square, purchasing groceries and searching for rifled gas cylinders. The first two events went without problems, but there was a problem with the cylinders. Initially we were assured that there would be cylinders. There were no rifled ones in Marrakech, or indeed in Morocco. None of the four groups I interviewed found them. This is a very annoying circumstance, because there are also no necessary adapters, there is little firewood, the Reactor had to be abandoned as unnecessary, and local cylinders and burners have a horrifyingly low efficiency. Subsequently, the most time-consuming activity from Everyday life will be cooking.

The starting point from Marrakech is approximately 60 km. The photo was taken by Georgy Gerasimov.

An hour and a half by bus to the starting point of the hike. Do you feel how far away it all is? We reached the road halfway to Imlil and headed towards the mountain. The sun was shining and it felt like +18.372. Winding along crumbling rocky paths, we came to the pass. Three villages were visible below. Not far away, on a slope, local women were collecting some herbs and branches. Children were running nearby. There was no long trek planned on the first day. Checking equipment. Grinding in to backpacks. As always. After a tangerine break at the pass, we began our descent. We were a little late in the village. While Sergei went on reconnaissance, local children poured out. It turned out that we were leaning near kindergarten. I had a bag of candy in my backpack, which was distributed to the preschool children by Yulia’s hands. The excitement is incredible. One candy. A little for happiness. We walked through the village and camped 30 meters from the river. The place was level, but damp. Unfortunately, we couldn't find a better one. Was unpleasant feeling that you are violating something. It was as if he had stood in someone's garden. However, even though the place was cultivated, no one prevented parking. Passing people with hoes offered only the services of a guide.

Yulia treats local children with sweets. The photo was taken by Georgy Gerasimov.

It was getting dark. December 31st, after all. I grabbed a bright yellow napkin from home. During the flight of the backpack, trekking poles, donated by the attentive Ira, were additionally wrapped in it. This napkin perfectly played the role of a festive tablecloth. Pasha and I found a bush that vaguely resembled a Christmas tree and brought it to the camp. They dressed it up with green and blue tinsel. They built a fire pit. We found several heavy logs and made benches. Although there was little firewood in the surrounding area, there was some. It would be sad without fire. It was agreed in advance that everyone would bring a small gift and then draw it randomly from the bag. There were two bottles of champagne, Milana reindeer antlers (Milana, I'm sorry, I don't know how to spell your name) and a Santa Claus hat. In general, everything is for the holiday. Communication in these places is poor, but I managed to make a few congratulations over the phone, and then return to New Year's danets by the fire and sausage.

New Year's bonfire in Africa. The photo was taken by Georgy Gerasimov.

The morning of the third day of the hike was cold. An amazing feature of this area: it is very cold in the shade, and very hot in the sun. I don’t know if it’s only in January, but the prison planet from the movie “The Chronicles of Riddick” immediately comes to mind. The luminary would not reach our camp until half past ten, which was in no way suitable for the tourist’s schedule. So it was not possible to dry things out. Everything was fine in our tent, judging by the stories of the others. Everyone’s sleeping bags were warm, but the guys themselves have strong, Nordic personalities. The tent is not quite suitable for the terrain, a mountaineering tent from The North Face. It is good to install this in places where there is a strong wind and precipitation is only in the form of snow, otherwise abundant condensation is guaranteed by the morning. And the tent weighs about 4.5 kg. However, it’s a sin to complain. Good house. Having broken up camp and taken the decorations from the Christmas tree, we headed into the mountains.

On the way to Gliss. The photo was taken by Georgy Gerasimov.

It was easy and pleasant to walk, almost like telling the truth. It’s dry, the sun is shining, there is no evil wind. The road ran into concrete blocks. Such a greeting from civilization. While the guys were cutting up lunch, I went ahead to check out possible routes. From above one could see a woman washing clothes, and not far from her a man was trying to use a hoe to make something suitable for crop production out of the soil, almost entirely consisting of clay and stones. Hard work. You may have seen how in China mountain slopes are turned into steps to grow tea on them. This also happens in Morocco. It doesn't look like the locals grow anything on these slopes. Rather, it seems that people are simply trying to bring a little life to this terracotta kingdom. Sergei mentioned that it takes the work of four generations to make such stone steps green. This action is called terracing the slope, as I found out later. Terracing allows you not only to get a flat area, but also to ensure the presence of moisture on it. I found a passage, but, as it turned out, there was no need for it. Near our resting place there was a hard-to-see path down to another settlement. Navigating these slopes is not easy. Local women came to the rescue unselfishly and very selflessly twice. They ran down the slope at fantastic speed just to show us the right path. Probably, the colorful floral bathrobes give them such confidence in running. There is no other way to explain this superpower. Almost 5 hours on the road. We crossed the village of Gliss. By a strong-willed decision, we passed by a site that seemed convenient at first glance. We walked another half hour and found a convenient place to camp. Just the green steps on the slope I mentioned above.

Gliss from the side of our camp. The photo was taken by Georgy Gerasimov.

The people scattered. I also decided to wash my feet first and put on new socks. Clean feet and fresh socks are a tourist's best friend. He climbed higher up the river, found a convenient stone near the water, revealed his secret to the world, put his foot in the stream, took it out and... What scorching cold water! A real test. Not surprising: next to me there was a waterfall, the top layer of which was frozen, the water flowed under a kind of canopy of ice. Returned to camp. The pot was set in advance. The two burners were working, but dinner was still a long way off. We decided to collect wood at least for the fire. As I already mentioned, there is little wood on the slopes. There are ready-made heaps, but, as you might guess, they are collected for a reason. Some are even tied with wire. The locals collect this for their own needs. The search was quite difficult. I had to walk quite a bit on the slopes. But with our joint efforts we had a fire. Loyalty to the burners is over. The pot was placed on the fire. Things immediately went faster.

The word for the next day is shoe covers. We had to walk in the snow. From Gliss we moved upward. During one of the rest stops, Pasha and I found a strange place near a large stone. It felt like it was being used as a square. There are many traces of people, animals and cars. Unfortunately, the rodents running past did not comment on our guesses. A ridge, a mountain, an ascent, a descent and now in front of us lies Ukaimeden - a ski resort. And who would have thought. A Porsche Cayenne passes nearby. People ride on a ski lift. A father shows his son how to stand on skis. I’ll be surprised if after this explanation the boy understands anything. We had lunch and had a mass change of clothes. It's unclear exactly what's ahead, but it's clear that there's a lot of snow. My knowledge in the field of frequency standards has increased significantly thanks to Gosha’s entertaining story. Not sarcasm.

Guess what I'm sitting on? The photo was taken by Georgy Gerasimov.

It was a steep slope. The snow is loose. Even if I wasn't too heavy, I fell through. We are steadily moving up. We try to follow the trail, but we still fall through. Sergei makes a lot of noise. We have to keep up. Towards the end I raise my head. A man stands with his hands on a stick behind his neck, points his finger and says that there is a path there. Oh. Where were you before? I’m being capricious, it’s not such a big rise. It turned out that there was a path along the slope; this is how locals pass between the resort and two settlements on the other side of the mountain. It's much easier to walk along the path. By the time we reached the pass, we had been walking for 7 hours, climbing 800 meters. While we were waiting for the others at the pass, let me sit down, I think. Here is a suitable bush, so as not to be in the snow. It looks so dense. It should be comfortable. Tell me, have you ever sat on a cactus? I do. Of course, I had a travel seat and two pants. Honestly, I didn’t recognize this plant as a cactus and could never have thought that it was so prickly. I would not have known if, when sitting down, I had not leaned my hand on him. Poke. Aw. Poke. Aw. I took the needles out of my hand. The world of cacti is amazing and diverse. Meanwhile, the sun began to set. We had to descend in the dark. A very average experience. Heavy load on knees. Lesha walked perfectly, he was sent ahead to look for a place to camp. At some point, they lit lanterns so they could see each other on the slope. Lots of holes, a lot of loose soil, unpleasant ice. An hour later, a greeting sounded from the darkness - it was Lesha who was waiting for us at the large stone. As he explained, there are two roads further. To the right, if you stand with your back to the slope, to Imlil, it is about 6 hours of travel. Turn left to Taşshedir, about 1 hour. The offer to stand right there was rejected. Too many rocks and too much angle. In the dark we went to Tashshedir.

Pass between Ukaymeden and Tashshedirt-Imlil. The photo was taken by Georgy Gerasimov.

At the entrance to the village, a man approached us and offered to stay with him, but as soon as it turned out that we needed to walk to his house for another half an hour, the idea was scrapped. Pasha and I saw the site below and were convinced that it was well suited for camp. I went back to get my backpack and talked a little more with our greeter. Two people came out to the group below and said that they couldn’t just stand here. Predictable and, in general, fair. But Sergei went with one of the locals and quickly returned with the news that there was a site for all the tents. They want 20 dirhams for a tent. The blue sign of the French Mountaineering Federation added calm. We set up and started cooking. A stove was discovered in this yard. It’s not that it was really necessary, but it’s more convenient. Pasha put forward a proposal to give the owner 100 dirhams right away, so that the price would not rise in the morning. The proposal seemed reasonable to me and I supported it. We found a local store and replenished our water supplies.

After all the standard morning procedures, a local friend came and demanded 100 dirhams for tents and another 50 for gas. About gas, yes, they didn’t ask. It was foolish to hope that this was included in the cost of our parking. But it was impossible to agree with the repeated payment of 100 dirhams. They explained to the friend that they had given the money to his friend, the one with whom he sat in the kitchen for 3 hours yesterday. The local began to insist that he barely knew him. In response to the demand to invite the barely-friend to our proceedings, the man shouted something into the house upstairs and said that the barely-friend was not at home. In general, the comrade reacted very poorly to any arguments. He threatened the police, which did not scare anyone. As a result, they wrote on the paper “they gave 100 dirhams to Ahmed.” He was satisfied, but still threatened the police.

On the way to Imlil. The photo was taken by Georgy Gerasimov.

Walking towards Imlil along a wide, comfortable road, asking the guys riddles and listening to jokes, I developed rules for communicating with the local population. It is worth distinguishing between residents of isolated villages and residents of at least some large settlements. The first ones live, perhaps, somewhat wildly, but are capable of selfless help. Contact with them was minimal, but what there was was limited to an ineffective offer of a guide, an unreturned lighter, and directions. The latter have a hard time understanding anything other than immediate gain. This is the main thesis. This surprised me incredibly. The European feeling of embarrassment at making someone uncomfortable should be toned down. Always find the main one and communicate only with him. Prepayment does not guarantee the absence of problems, just as postpayment does not guarantee it. There will be a balancing act, but transferring money after, in my opinion, is preferable to transferring money before. Ignore lamentations in the style of “don’t you trust me.” Find out all services and conditions. Ignore assurances and persuasion. Check everything found out. They said there would be water - check it. They said that the water is cold because it is heating up - wait until it warms up. They said it was like this in every room - check in every room. Almost never a service or product costs what you are asked to pay. You should always have leverage. Bargain, persuade, threaten. The locals can be very annoying, you are the master of the situation, if they are not interested, ignore them. Perhaps all this seems like “white snobbery,” but it saves nerves and money. I didn’t meet a single vulnerable soul among local businessmen. We also came up with the idea that the fact of transferring money can be photographed.

Terraces of Imlil. The photo was taken by Georgy Gerasimov.

Imlil is a big place. Here you can rent the missing equipment. We took cats. The quality is low, the condition is average or lower. We have to choose. It's rare to have everything you need in one place. That is why some of the guys went to get the cats, and the other part went with me as a leader upstairs, closer to Toubkal. Passing the village of Armed, we met those three tourists who had not arrived at the assembly point. They're fine. They are much more in a simple way got into Armed and are going to ascend on the same day as us. We passed right through the settlement. Not a single suitable place for tents. I left the guys at the crossroads and ran to the mountain to look for a place. No chance. On the plateau at the foot there are only stones. The familiar steps are found near the path, far from the river, but nearby there is a broken hose. He rejected his own find. A broken hose as a source of water is not serious. I ran up the hill. I met two Germans, they shook their heads in response to my question about a suitable site, but advised me to inspect a place 15 minutes from a large stone. As you can imagine, a large stone is often used as a landmark. And, surprisingly, it is always clear what kind of big stone we are talking about. There was space, but only for one tent and it was a little concave. If anyone reads this report while planning their climb, know that there is a place, but it is even further away. You need to climb up the mountain, reach a stone trough with water, walk along it, looking at places down the slope. There is a place for tents, water can be taken from this very gutter. It was time for me to return. I was already gone for half an hour. I reached the guys. Surprisingly, the cat hunters have not returned yet. But the guys found a parking yard with a certain Ibrahim. Ibrahim is a guide and speaks reasonable English. You could pitch tents in the courtyard, or you could occupy rooms. He took the radio and ran towards the first part of the group, leaving the guys to deal with the parking lot. We met somewhere in the middle of Armed. We also had to make a call for Pasha and Lena, who went to look for the house. Everyone came to Ibrahim together.

Pasha and I looked around the rooms. Quite tolerable. And they want 30 for a tent or 40 for a room. We decided to stay in rooms to save time on packing and dismantling the camp. Somehow we distributed ourselves into rooms. Hot water It was medium-hot, which didn’t suit everyone. However, judging by the fact that I saw more and more people entering the kitchen, simultaneously wiping their heads, even such water was a joy. Downstairs there was a room with a gas stove. Everyone sat there and had dinner there. There I met three Englishmen who were planning to ascend at about the same time as us. The British were very surprised to learn that the core and instructors of our group were from Ukraine, and the rest were from Russia. No problems on ethnic grounds. I don’t understand where they could have come from, but the British were impressed, as were the Latvians, whom I met a day later on the mountain.

The pain sandwich and the birth of Candy Man. The photo was taken by Georgy Gerasimov

The warm living room, if you can call it that, relaxed everyone. We didn't get a radical gain in time in the morning, but we got a decent amount of energy. A tent camp wouldn't give that much. There was one glass missing from the window of our room, and the window itself did not close. The temperature in the room was still above zero. In the morning we unloaded most of the equipment and tents. The crampons were tried on and fitted in the evening. They left in a stable mood. I liked it. Even the thought of gaining 1200 meters didn’t bother me at all. The path to the top can be divided into three conventional parts. The first part runs along the ground, along the way there are shelters with benches where you can drink juice. The second part begins where the ground ends and stretches to the shelter with the already familiar and dear blue sign of the French Mountaineering Federation. The second section has two steep climbs. On these climbs it is very advisable to have an ice ax or at least poles. You can't go left or right from the main path. The slopes are steep and the snow is deep. It is curious that among the mountains on the other side of the river a difficult path can be seen. There is an idea that you can use it directly to the ski resort, but I won’t insist, I’m a mediocre navigator. The third section is the section from the shelter to the summit.

On the way to the French shelter. I took a photo.

As soon as I entered the shelter, I saw a man in the living room lying on the floor under a blanket. The man's face was covered in scratches. Standing nearby was one of the French climbers, with whom I managed to exchange a few words at the entrance about the road to the mountain. I asked the man lying down how he was feeling and if he needed anything. The man behaved according to what I called him. He didn’t waste his energy talking, but he asked his comrade what exactly happened. It turned out that they were climbing to the top with skis, everything was going fine, the peak was reached. We decided to go back part of the way. The snow melted, the man was carried slightly to the side of the descent trajectory, control was lost. Then stones, a hip fracture, a head blow and some other injuries. My knowledge of the language was not enough to understand the details. They were waiting for a helicopter, but the second day was already ending, and there was nothing even remotely resembling the long-awaited help. It is worth noting here that any experienced tourist, especially when going to the mountains, takes out insurance. There are different types of insurance, but a decent one includes similar cases. As you understand, no one will go personally from the Russian insurance company; everyone works through intermediaries. Until recently, there were four such intermediaries in Morocco. One seems to have ceased to exist. The other two are looking for reasons not to fulfill obligations. The last one remaining is supposed to help. This information was later shared with me by a Russian couple of climbers. Unfortunately, I don't remember the names of the companies, but I'm sure if you know what to look for, you will. They began to lower the man on a stretcher. We walked up to the shelter slowly for about 5 hours. The descent, I think, took the French longer. His comrades brought him down. Toubkal is a simple mountain, but this case is a good illustration of the fact that even simple mountains need to be taken seriously. Also, choose your companions carefully. Dramatic episode. The guys didn't need any help on the descent. I'm sure everything is fine with them.

Our group, meanwhile, drinks tea and dries our boots by the open fire. Someone is walking near the shelter. After some time, our English friends come with Ibrahim. The guys look tired. In the next room, a couple from Chelyabinsk is heating water. Gosha and I are on duty, preparing soup. We go to bed early to get up early.

Shelter on Toubkal. The photo was taken by Georgy Gerasimov.

I dressed too seriously for this climb. As soon as the sun appears on the mountain, it becomes very comfortable. Don't play it safe. I didn’t time how long the climb took, but at a walking pace we got to the top in no more than 2.5 hours. Several groups rose at the same time. I even met a Novgorodian who had made a long journey around the country with the Latvians. They also managed to visit the Sahara. They just complained about the large number of trips by bus. In this sense, our pedestrian crossings are much more pleasant. At the top we were fooling around, taking pictures, looking at the surroundings, wondering where exactly the Sahara was. A little to the side, a guy from a Latvian group proposed to his girlfriend. Either from acclimatization, or from an excess of feelings, my head was spinning. Somehow stopping the rotation of space around him, he began his descent. The guys also reached down. The countdown to 4167 meters of Toubkal passed without incident, except for Pasha who cut himself to death on the slope. I wonder if there are sticks that don’t break when you’re killed in a fall? At the shelter we picked up our things and continued our shift around the kitchen with Gosha. Conveniently, everyone was just ready for lunch. Then straight down. There is no rational reason to spend another night on the mountain. There were signs of altitude sickness on the faces of the British, and on Ibrahim's face there was a calm smile. We won’t see them again, they won’t have time to catch up with us even the next day. The descent was long. My knees started to ache. My feet were wet. We waited quite a long time for the others to come down. We spent the night in a trusted place. Along the way, I asked people passing by how their conditions were. Everyone unanimously said that the rooms were cold, and if there was a stove, it was only in the common room, where the cunning owners slept.

Top of Toubkal, 4167 meters. The photo was taken by Georgy Gerasimov.

The descent from the mountain ends the active hiking part and turns our adventures into a contemplative plane, with sightseeing and staying in hostels. In the morning, we, all slightly cold, handed over our cats and went by ordered bus to Marrakech to get the rest of our things, and from there straight to the city of blue windows, Essaouira. Just a few words about the cities through which our journey home lay.

Essaouira is located on the shores of the Atlantic Ocean. Even in January it is quite possible to swim there, although not for long. There are waves that attract windsurfers. The medina is small, completely covered with souvenir shops. We walked around it all, including very non-tourist places, and with Gosha, when we were looking for a stop for intercity buses, we even walked along the streets of the new city. There is absolutely nothing to do outside the Medina, don’t waste your time. Intercity transportation is provided by SUPR@TOUR. For 80 dirhams you will get to Marrakech. Your large luggage will arrive in another 5 minutes. There are buses to Agadir. The cars are comfortable and run on schedule. Tickets can be purchased at the station, which is located next to Bastion du Sud. If you stand with your back to it, then to the right at 45 degrees. A ticket must be purchased in advance for a specific bus. There may not be any places available. The bus is the most cheap way get to another city. Railway in Essaouira no. Grand Taxi will cost you 900 dirhams for 6 people. A minibus booked through the hotel costs AED 1,300. As you can see, the bus is closer to the people. Countless times we were offered to buy hashish. Especially at the pier where we watched the sunset. By the way, you can eat fresh fish there at the pier. Talk to the locals, find out when they will go to sea. Choose any fish, they will prepare it for you. The guys got 500 dirhams between them. Not cheap, but Pasha, Lena and Lesha had happy faces. On the first evening, we bought grilled chicken and went to the embankment. There they saw a stray dog ​​with a green button in its ear. I guess this is a sign of sterilization. A man with dreadlocks approached us there. He spoke emotionally about how this was his coast. I challenged Pasha to a rap battle. He swore funnyly at his assistant, who turned on the wrong background melody. Not only Pasha had no desire to participate in the duel, so the owner of the coast was not overthrown. He went down in the history of our trip as Lucky Boy, because his speech began with the words “I am a lucky boy.” For the future, we decided that we would respond with the song “The Wind Blowed from the Sea,” read in rap style. It must be impressive. I hope to never meet Lucky Boy again. If heaven has other plans, I expect to see when we meet that he has a green button in his ear. I don't think you'll find much to do in Essaouira for more than two days, unless the purpose of your trip is surfing. So the next day we went to Marrakech. We are Pasha, Lena, Lesha, Gosha, Nastya and me. Natasha went to Agadir. The rest were also going to Agadir, but every other day.

Essaouira. I took a photo.

Yes, yes, back to Marrakech, to the Red City. 170 kilometers were spent playing “Contact”, inventing the word “antiplushenko” and in the deep sleep of individual representatives of our company. In the evening, the main square of Marrakech fills with people. An endless number of restaurants are popping up. There are stationary ones along the perimeter, so to speak, but numbered new ones appear in the center. There are carts with fruit standing separately, squeezing out the juice. For 4 dirhams you can drink an orange one. Snake charmers are doubtful, but present. Some do acrobatic pirouettes, some dance. He asks for money for contemplation, of course. You won't find anything exotic. They sell souvenirs and food. My throat hurt and my cold was getting worse. Back in Essaouira, I bought a throat spray, but it turned out to be somewhat mild. Now I'm concerned about finding soda. The item is not very popular. I explained soda as a thing that is like salt that you use in cooking, especially baking, but not enough. Amazingly, the second seller understood me. I was terribly surprised. The next day in Marrakech began with Pasha buying pants at H&M. If you search, you will find a golf club. Who would have thought? Then we went on foot to the largest green area that we found on the map. The garden turned out to be large, but not interesting to visit. This is not a place for a promenade. Next on the list was another garden - Majorelle's Garden. Oooh, this is an amazingly beautiful and peaceful place. Yves Saint Laurent and his friend bought this villa, restored it and filled it with unique plants. I highly recommend visiting it if you are in Marrakech. In the same garden there is a museum of Berber culture. Gosha and I went while the others were resting on a bench. Firstly, the museum is very beautifully done. Secondly, it really gives an idea of ​​the diversity of nationalities united under the name Berbers. I also recommend it. After finding balance in the Majorelle garden, we visited the photography museum. The idea seems ambiguous, what other photography museum is in Marrakech? However, the time was not wasted. Three floors of photographs of Berbers at different times. Great illustrations of life. A film about culture and traditions. The young man at the entrance even gave us a short tour. From the roof of the museum you can clearly see the city and the sunset.

Majorelle Garden in Marrakech. The photo was taken by Georgy Gerasimov.

It’s a pity, but the time has come to say goodbye to Marrakesh too. Gosha was left to guard Marrakesh. His plane was taking off from a local airport. With the loss of one fighter, the detachment traveled by trusted train to Casablanca. Next, the local tram was introduced. Convenient, technologically advanced, costs 7 dirhams. If you recharge a cardboard ticket purchased for the first time, 6 dirhams. It’s calmer in Casablanca, no one bothers you, but there’s nothing to see there and there’s nowhere to go for a walk. The only thing of interest is the huge mosque. You can easily see it from anywhere in the city, I believe. We lived near the port. It's huge in Casablanca. The employee of the hotel where we stayed joked non-stop, on any occasion. Sometimes it seemed to us that he was on drugs. You won't find alcohol in Morocco. Hookahs are not prohibited, but you are unlikely to see them either; they are considered a bad thing. So the condition of our concierge remained a mystery. There are few authentic souvenirs in the markets of Casablanca, but they offer to buy a jumper or jeans. We visited the square near the mosque, but didn’t have time to get into the mosque itself. We sat on the embankment overlooking the ocean. In the morning we went to the airport, where we departed almost simultaneously. Guys via Istanbul, I via Madrid.

Casablaca. I took a photo.

Of course, I didn’t tell everything. Not all cases of conflicts with the local population have been recorded. Not all of our walks made it into the story. Didn't say anything about national cuisine and souvenirs. Finally, there is almost no word about the Berbers themselves. Let's assume that leftovers are a bonus to live conversations.

I desperately drink black tea and plan my next hike.

Reports from other participants: group leader Sergei Lakhotsky, Pavel Pozdnyak (aka Pavel the First in the terminology of our hike) and the magnificent

Morocco has landscapes for every taste, from the purest beaches from the azure distance of the ocean to the sandy dunes, stretching into infinity, from blooming oases from exquisite cuisine and amazing hospitality to harsh peaks with powerful fortresses on the slopes. It is not for nothing that the film sets of many sensational Hollywood films were located here - from historical blockbusters to Star Wars.

Our route will allow you to touch the main natural extremes Morocco: the mountains, the great desert and the ocean, and also visit the center cultural heritage- Marrakesh. The fundamental point: we propose to do the ascent to Toubkal (4167 m), the highest mountain of the Atlas and all of North Africa, not in two, but in three days, overcoming two passes, which gives the necessary “sawtooth” acclimatization to height.

Travel program to Morocco:

Day 1. Start of the journey. Arrival at the airport, meeting with the host and transfer to the city. Luxurious accommodation riad– a traditional Moroccan palace house with a courtyard garden. Welcome dinner.

Day 2. Marrakesh. In the morning after breakfast - an introductory tour of the Moroccan capital. Marrakech is called the “heart of Morocco”. This is an amazing, fabulous city of flowering gardens, delightful aromas of saffron, ginger, cloves, a world of oriental sweets and exotic flowers. We will see the famous minaret of the Koutoubia Mosque (XII century), the Bahia Palace, the tombs of the sultans of the dynasty Saadians and a center for traditional crafts. After lunch, we'll go for a walk in the amazing Majorelle Garden - a miracle of landscape art, and in the evening we'll plunge into the vibrant life of the oldest square in the city Jemaa El Fna, where musicians, acrobats and snake charmers flock at dusk. Second night in the riad.

Day 3. High Atlas. After breakfast we will move to the foot of the Atlas Mountains to the town of Imlil (altitude 1740 m), which is located 75 km from Marrakech (1.5 hour drive). This is where we'll lace up ours trekking boots and, accompanied by Berber guides, we will go from the Imlil valley to the Azzadene valley through the pass. On this day we will admire the Ighouliden waterfalls and spend the night in the Lipenei mountain hut at an altitude of 3000 m.

Transition time 6 hours, altitude gain 1250 m

Day 4. Transfer to the assault camp. A difficult climb from the Azzadene Valley to pass Aguelzim (3560 m) and a further descent to 3200 m to the mountain hut of Toubkal (Niltner) will give the necessary acclimatization before climbing. From the Toubkal ridge there are panoramic views of the entire High Atlas. You will have to spend the night in the hut in a common dormitory with other climbers.

Transit time 6 hours, climb 560 m, descent 360 m

Day 5. Climbing Toubkal. We get up before dawn, usually we leave around 5 am and at first we go with flashlights. Under favorable weather conditions, the ascent to Toubkal (4167 m) takes about 3 hours. View from peaks of North Africa covers the entire Atlas Mountains and the Marrakech Valley. Returning to the shelter, we will continue a quick descent to the villages of Sidi Shamharush and Aremd and further to Imlil, where we will stop for the night in a reconstructed kasbah (castle hotel). Here Martin Scorsese filmed his film about the young Dalai Lama.

Distance 22 km, travel time about 9 hours, elevation gain 965 m, descent 2370 m

Day 6. Transfer to the Sahara. At 9 am, departure to the south, along a mountain road past numerous picturesque Berber villages. Overcoming the pass Tizi-n-Tichka. On the other side, the mountains descend to the desert, and small fortresses rise near the few oases. This kasbah(kasbah), fortified homes of families in which they also hide their livestock. Visit on the way film studios Ourzazate, surrounded by an unearthly landscape. After 5 hours of pure driving, arrival at Dades Canyon, accommodation at the travel hotel.

Day 7. Sugar. Further move to Merzouga, a key city on the route to the desert. On the way, before lunch, stop for a walk in the Todra Canyon, surrounded by 300-meter cliffs - these are the spurs of the Atlas. In the depths of the canyon there is an oasis and palm trees grow densely. Total driving time is 4 hours.

Upon arrival in Merzouga, we go to the Kasbah and transfer to camels. We have to travel with a caravan 1.5 hours deep into the sands to spend the night in a real tent Berber camp under a sky dotted with myriads of stars. Here we will find a real dastarkhan and the hospitality of nomads.

Day 8. Sahara - Ait Benhaddou. Early rise and, after light tea, return by camel to Merzouga before the desert heats up from the sun. Here we will have a shower and a hearty breakfast. We leave the Sahara and go to the ancient walled city Ait Benhaddou (transfer 5-6 hours). It is so atmospheric that it has served as the backdrop for numerous famous films, from Lawrence of Arabia to The Mummy. Guided city tour, overnight at a nearby riyadh hotel.

Day 9. Return to Marrakesh. Transfer along the Ounilla valley back to the Tizi n Tichka pass. On the way we will explore Kasbah Tilowet, climbing the slopes of the Atlas - in the past an important fortified point on the route of trade caravans to Marrakesh. We will arrive there after 3-4 hours of driving. Accommodation in a riad, free time in the evening.

Day 10. Essaouira. At 8 am, departure west to Essaouira, a picturesque city on the Atlantic coast 180 km from Marrakech. Arrival around 11 o'clock, excursion until lunch, free time in the evening. Essaouira is founded on the site of ancient settlements that belonged to the Phoenicians in the 7th century BC. Has been here since the 15th century Portuguese fortress. The city acquired its current appearance in 1760 after redevelopment by the outstanding French architect Theodore Cornu, so Asian and European features are intertwined in it. We will see the medina and the famous port, stroll through the artisans' quarter (there are many outstanding woodcarvers here), and have lunch at a cozy fish restaurant on the embankment. In the 60-70s of the twentieth century, Essaouira became a mecca hippie, and to this day it is an iconic city for fans of Jimi Hendrix and Bob Marley, as well as for people art and bohemia. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 11. Essaouira - Marrakesh. The first half of the day is reserved for relaxation at sea: Essaouira has a beautiful multi-kilometer beach, one of the world's best windsurfing spots. In the evening return to Marrakech, last opportunity for shopping. Overnight in a riad.

Day 12. End of the program. Airport transfer. Flying home.