Features of growing broccoli in the country. Diseases of white cabbage Why cabbage has sprouted stepsons

White cabbage is very often found in plots, as well as in dachas. This vegetable is very popular as an ingredient in many dishes and for preservation.

Therefore, gardeners often face problems such as various types of diseases and pests. Let's talk about the main ones in more detail.

Diseases of white cabbage

Kila

The most common fungal disease of white cabbage, which appears most often in areas with waterproof soil where there is stagnant water. Clubroot does not develop on alkaline soils; its environment is acidic soils. The causative agent of the disease can remain in the soil for up to 7 years, so another possible cause of plant disease is planting seedlings in soil that is not properly treated.

Clubroot appears after planting seedlings and at any stage of development (seedlings can also be affected during growth) by general weakness of the plant and wilting. When excavated, lumpy growths are visible on the roots. The cabbage sprout withers, stops growing and dies.

What to do?

1. It is not possible to save and resume the development of the plant. After clubroot disease is determined, the affected cabbage is immediately removed and burned.
2. The bed with the remaining healthy plants should be thoroughly weeded of all weeds, especially cruciferous ones, hilled up and watered.
3. Disinfect the areas from which diseased plants have been removed with solutions of formaldehyde or Bordeaux mixture. Add colloidal sulfur in powder form to the garden bed, 5 g per square meter.
4. After the remaining plantings have reached maturity, all remains are removed from the beds, carefully dug up, and in subsequent years no planting of any types of cabbage and related plants is carried out; planting of potatoes is also undesirable.
5. Planting crops from the Solanaceae, Liliaceae, and Chenopodiaceae families next season will help kill pathogens. A striking combination is tomatoes and garlic.

Fomoz or dry rot

One of the most common and dangerous diseases of cabbage lies in wait for the plant at various stages of development. The causative agent is a fungal infection. When cabbage is infected with dry rot, the root stalk turns black, and yellow and gray spots appear on the leaves.

The affected stem becomes covered with a fungal coating, becomes rotten, and the plant dies. If the disease strikes at the seedling stage, you should not expect a harvest. Fomoz can overtake the heads of cabbage already in storage; they become covered with spots, ulcers and dry out.

What to do?

1. In the initial stage of the disease, seedlings and affected plantings can still be saved if sprayed with special chemicals.
2. Pollination of seedlings with wood ash or ground sulfur is effective. This procedure is carried out three times every 7 days.

Vascular bacteriosis

A bacterial disease characteristic of all types of cabbage. It first affects the leaves, the tips of which become yellow and dry. The vessels of the leaf turn black, a mesh appears, then the yellowness spreads to the entire leaf, it turns black and dies.

The next stage is spread to the next cabbage leaves and death of the entire plant. A viable bacterium remains unharmed in soil, leaves, and seeds for up to two years. From a sick fork to a healthy one, the bacterium is carried by the wind or by pests and insects. A positive environment for development is abundant rainfall.

What to do?

If affected leaves are found, they should be removed and the entire planting should be treated with any of the garden chemicals.

Mucous bacteriosis

The bacterium most often develops during the storage or transportation stage of cabbage, but can also become active during the growth stage. Signs of mucous bacteriosis can manifest themselves in two ways.

In the first case, the top of the head of cabbage rots, mucus and an unpleasant putrid odor appear.

The second option is that rotting begins from the root. The impetus for the activation of bacteria is soils overfed with nitrogen, a sharp drop in temperature and prolonged precipitation.

What to do?

1. In the garden, remove the affected plant and treat the rest with appropriate preparations.
2. If rotting began during storage, you should also remove the diseased heads of cabbage and disinfect the room.

Gray rot

A fungal disease that attacks the harvested crop in the storage area. Diseased heads of cabbage are covered with fluffy mold and black spots. This happens more often in rooms with high dampness, and also happens if wet forks are stored for storage and not dried sufficiently.

The prerequisites for development are the same as for mucous bacteriosis. The fighting method is also identical. Prevention of diseases that arise during storage - preliminary thorough disinfection and drying of premises.

White rot or sclerotinia

Rotting of the head of cabbage, the appearance of a white cobweb on the underside of the leaf - such manifestations of a fungal infection most often occur during heavy cold precipitation. Most often, already ripe crops, ready for harvest or already stored, are affected. Like other types of rot, sclerotinia likes to grow in acidic and nitrogenous soils.

Control – preventive reduction of soil acidity, neutralization of nitrogen. Plants can be saved by spraying with preparations containing copper.

Important! Even slightly damaged cabbage heads will not be able to survive long-term storage. The infection will be transmitted to the rest of the crop. Any damaged forks should be cleaned and recycled first.

Point necrosis

This is a disease that appears as small black spots on the inner leaves of an adult head of cabbage. Necrosis intensifies during storage, but is not transmitted to other heads, since the disease is caused by a non-infectious cause.

Necrosis is a manifestation of a biochemical failure in cabbage metabolism, which occurs when the plant is overfed with mineral fertilizers. Cabbage with severe necrosis, when the dots merge into large spots, becomes unfit for consumption.

The only way to combat necrosis is to follow agricultural practices and be careful when using mineral fertilizers.

Cabbage mosaic

The external manifestations of cabbage mosaic are similar to the symptoms of necrosis - also, initially black dots appear between the leaves, in addition, the edge of the leaf is covered with a dark green frame. Unlike necrosis, the cause of this disease is a viral pathogen carried by aphids and spider mites.

What to do?

The disease is incurable and can gradually affect the entire crop. For this reason, at the first signs of the disease, the damaged plant should be removed and at the same time sprayed with an anti-pest product.

Blackleg

This fungal disease begins its development with damage to the lower part of the cabbage trunk. The stalk turns black, becomes stained, becomes thinner and weaker. The entire head of cabbage does not receive the necessary nutrition, weakens and dies. The appearance of the disease is most often associated with stagnation of water at the roots in waterlogged soil.

May occur during seedling growth. Affected seedlings should not be planted - the disease cannot be treated and spreads to the entire garden bed.

What to do?

The diseased plant is removed and destroyed, and the rest of the planting is treated with potassium permanganate or special antifungal drugs.

Fusarium wilt

A fungal disease that attacks plants of the cabbage family through the root system of the affected soil. The infection develops more rapidly when there is a lack of moisture or low summer temperatures. The leaves turn yellow, die and fall off. The head of cabbage does not tie, leaving a bare trunk.

What to do?

The only treatment for the entire area is to remove dead seedlings and disinfect the soil with a solution of copper sulfate or potassium manganese.

Penosporosis or downy mildew

Gray-yellow spots with a powdery coating all over the cabbage leaf, wilting and death of the affected leaves - this is how this fungal disease manifests itself.

Penosporosis is a frequent visitor to greenhouse seedlings, where its development is promoted by high humidity and high temperature. When the plant is transferred to open ground, the development of the fungus is slightly slowed down, but soon resumes.

What to do?

You can stop the fungus by spraying with Thiram or Planriz solutions.

Pests of white cabbage and their control

Cruciferous flea beetles

One of the most dangerous pests of the entire cruciferous family. Within a few days after emerging from hibernation and mass reproduction, the bugs are capable of destroying the entire crop of young cabbage plantings. The initial method of control is thorough cleaning of weeds, since it is on them, of the same family as cabbage, that the flea beetle begins its spring development.

The following control methods are also effective in controlling other pests:

1. Spraying with a solution of wood ash, at least 3-4 times with an interval of 4-5 days.
2. A decoction of tomato tops (4 kg of shoots or 2 kg of dry leaves per bucket of water). Before use, the boiled and strained broth is diluted by half and 40 g of soap is added.
3. Sprinkling with pepper, tobacco, dry mustard powder. Sprinkle the plants and soil around them.
4. Spraying with vinegar solution.
5. Insecticide treatment is less environmentally friendly, but more effective and reliable.

Horseradish leaf beetles

Beautiful black bugs with a greenish tint, another name for which is babanukha. It overwinters in the soil, under the remains of vegetation or manure, and comes to the surface in early June. The babanukha feeds on green leaves and lays eggs on them.

Cabbage whitefly

Withered cabbage leaves, darkened at the bottom edge - these signs can determine the activity of the larvae laid by this fly. The whitefly is similar in appearance to the house fly, but is smaller in size.

Cabbage flies

Another representative of small flower flies, the larvae of which feed on cabbage roots. Externally it is distinguished by dark stripes on the belly. It is difficult to detect an infestation with larvae, so the fight must begin immediately when plants are noticed to wilt for no apparent reason.

Fight: hilling, sprinkling the soil around with tobacco dust, a mixture of peppers, watering with ammonia or laurel infusion.

Root-knot nematodes

Nematodes are small worms 1-1.5 mm long that damage many vegetable crops besides cabbage, except garlic. Planting garlic between cabbage is one of the preventive measures against nematodes. The worms settle in the roots of the plant, feed there, and form galls.

It becomes difficult for a root affected by nematodes to transfer nutrients, which affects the development of the above-ground part of the plant. You can fight it like you would with a cabbage fly, but destroying the pest is only possible by completely replacing the soil layer.

Belyanka

Beautiful white butterflies over cabbage plantings are not pests themselves, but the caterpillars that emerge from laid eggs feed on cabbage leaves and in large quantities.

In addition to spraying with chemicals, you can protect a cabbage bed by planting it with beans, calendula, and marigolds. White butterflies also do not like the smell of wormwood, the taste of pepper, and mustard.

Control by physically destroying egg clutches on the leaves is also effective, although labor-intensive.

Cabbage moth

Another type of butterfly, a pest of cabbage (photo), that grows caterpillars on the leaves, small brown members of the moth family. The methods of dealing with them are the same as with whites, fertilizing with potassium fertilizers.

Prevention – cleaning the garden from tops and other residues.

Cabbage scoop

A brown-gray butterfly with wavy stripes on the wings, with a wingspan of 5 cm. The caterpillars are green, with yellow stripes on the sides. In addition to the usual methods of fighting butterflies, cutworms can be caught by attracting them with light.

Cabbage aphid

Medvedka

A large underground beetle is a pest that eats plant roots. A family of mole crickets can destroy a bed of seedlings in a couple of days. Traces of the beetle's presence in the garden are clearly visible surface passages in the form of undermined convolutions.

To combat mole crickets, there are garden chemical preparations that are mixed with grain and placed in holes in places where pests are found. The second method is to equip traps: pits with compost where beetles come running.

Important. Frequent loosening and digging is a method to destroy egg laying of a dangerous pest.

Cabbage moth

A light brown butterfly with transverse stripes, the wingspan of which is 3 cm. The caterpillars are yellow with black spots on the sides. Appears in June, and is not so dangerous for seedlings planted early. Moth pupae overwinter in the ground, so digging up the soil is one of the methods of pest control.

The centipede is harmful

This pest is often mistaken for a large mosquito. The centipede grows larvae not only on cabbage, but also on other vegetables and weeds. One of the control methods is frequent weeding, destruction of weeds and dried tops, and treatment with cyanamide.

Prevention

It is easier to prevent any cabbage disease than to get rid of it. Preventive measures to save the crop from diseases and pests are as follows:

1. Modern breeding has achieved excellent results in creating cabbage varieties for different regions, with different ripening periods and with enhanced resistance to major cruciferous diseases. Therefore, buying seeds of exactly these varieties will be cheaper and more reliable.
2. Many garden plants are natural enemies of viruses to which cabbage is susceptible. The key to a good harvest is compliance with crop rotation.
3. Proper implementation of agrotechnical measures: timely watering, weeding, loosening.
4. Tilling the soil before planting and thoroughly cleaning up the remains after harvesting.
5. Timely pest control not only helps to get rid of their influence. Pests are frequent carriers of infections.
6. Treating seeds before sowing and carefully caring for seedlings is the key to healthy plantings.
7. Cleaning and disinfection of crop storage premises.

Broccoli, or cabbage, is an annual plant. It tastes like cauliflower, but is significantly superior in its nutritional and dietary properties. Many people are interested in growing broccoli, and I want every amateur gardener to have it on their plot.

Broccoli: Broccoli. Broccoli has many advantages: it is more productive than cauliflower, and it has the ability, after cutting the head on the central shoot, to form a crop on the side shoots - on the stepsons. Harvesting from stepchildren extends the period of its use. And finally, broccoli is considered one of the best anti-sclerotic remedies.
Broccoli is used just like cauliflower. Boil in salted water and then fry in oil, sprinkle with crushed breadcrumbs. It is served as an independent dish, as well as a side dish for meat and fish dishes. It can also be pickled or preserved. But it is especially useful in its raw form on an empty stomach.

Broccoli grows well in soils amended with organic and mineral fertilizers. Does not tolerate acidic soils. In the fall, the soil needs to be dug deep and, if necessary, limed. In the spring, humus or compost soil is added - a bucket per 1 sq.m., and from mineral fertilizers - a garden mixture (60g per 1 sq.m.). It can be replaced with superphosphate (40g), urea and potassium chloride (10g each).
To speed up the harvest, broccoli is grown as seedlings, just like cabbage and cauliflower. Sow seeds in boxes on March 10-15. Seedlings are planted in the ground at the end of April - beginning of May in deep, well-watered holes.

Broccoli is very moisture-loving. During subsequent waterings, you need to pour out such an amount of water so that the soil layer 40 cm deep is always moist. The distance between rows is 50 cm, and between plants 25-40 cm, depending on the soil. Plants are planted more often on well-fertilized soil.

In order to have broccoli until late autumn, seeds for seedlings are sown at several times with intervals of 16-20 days. The last date for sowing is no later than June 15. Seeds can also be sown directly into the ground. So, when sowing broccoli seeds in early May, the harvest is harvested at the end of August, and the last heads are cut off before mid-November.

When sowing seeds in a nursery on May 7, and planting seedlings in the ground (50x45 cm) on June 15, harvesting begins at the end of July. The last heads are also cut off before frost. Caring for broccoli (weeding, loosening the soil, hilling plants, fertilizing) is the same as for cauliflower. With good care, on the 70-120th day after sowing (depending on the variety and growing zone), large green heads (stem formations) weighing 600g or more are formed.

Do not go for large heads on the central shoot. Harvest them promptly while they are tender and tasty. It is better to cut the heads early in the morning, when there is dew, or late in the evening. In this case, they will not wither longer.
Remember that delaying harvesting will not only worsen the quality of the product, but will also delay the development of the lateral (axillary) heads, which reduces the yield.

Anyone who will grow broccoli on a personal or collective plot needs to master the technique of obtaining seeds of this crop. Good, ripened seeds are obtained only from plants planted as seedlings in the ground in late April - early May. On early ripening, healthy, productive plants, leave 2-3 of the strongest shoots with inflorescences (heads). From the moment of flowering, the plants are tied to stakes, and the tops of the inflorescences in the very center are cut off by 10 cm, since the seeds on them are formed much later than at the edge of the inflorescence and often do not ripen. Newly emerging shoots (stepchildren) are removed in their infancy to speed up the ripening of seeds on the remaining inflorescences.

It must be remembered that broccoli is pollinated not only with all types of cabbage, but also with weeds of the Cruciferous (Cabbage) family - rapeseed, mustard and others. Therefore, weeds must be weeded at an early age, and seeds of other types of cabbage should not be grown in the area where broccoli seeds grow.

Caring for broccoli seed plants is the same as caring for the crop. Before frost, the testes are carefully pulled out (so that the seeds do not fall off) and transferred to a dry, ventilated room to ripen and dry the seeds. This usually takes about two weeks. After threshing, winnowing, calibrating and checking for germination, the seeds are stored.

Broccoli is considered the predecessor of cauliflower. Because of the branching of its shoots it is also called asparagus. It tastes like cauliflower, but is significantly superior in nutritional, dietary and medicinal properties.

Broccoli is much more productive than cauliflower due to its ability to form additional heads on its side shoots. The harvest from them increases the period of its use.

The head of broccoli - a bunch of loose flower buds on tender stems - is shaped like cauliflower, but its color is very diverse: green, bluish, purple and even white.

Due to its chemical composition, broccoli is valued in dietary nutrition; its medicinal properties are determined by the content of vitamins, potassium salts, magnesium, phosphorus, and calcium. Broccoli proteins contain choline and methionine, which prevent the accumulation of cholesterol in the body. The amount of vitamin C is almost three times higher than the content in cauliflower, and the shoots are much richer in sugars.

The homeland of broccoli is Italy. In our country, this variety of cabbage is little known, but interest in it is rapidly growing. Some state farms in the RSFSR, Lithuania and Ukraine, as well as many amateur gardeners, have already begun to grow it.

Broccoli varieties vary in head shape. In the early ones, the central head is small, loose, and lateral heads are simultaneously formed in the axils of the leaves; in late varieties the main head is large and dense, the side heads appear later, 2-3 weeks after cutting the main head. These heads are small and can be used for food along with the shoots. Due to the stepsons, the yield per plant increases to 3.5 kg.

Broccoli can be an annual or perennial crop. It takes 35-55 days from planting the seedlings until the head is suitable for food. The weight of the main central head is from 60 to 600 g. The productivity of one plant can reach 1 kg. The yield is significantly influenced by the variety, conditions and duration of cultivation.

Broccoli does not tolerate acidic soils. To cultivate it in the fall, the soil must be dug up and, if necessary, limed. In the spring, humus or compost soil is added at the rate of one bucket per square meter and mineral fertilizers for the same area: garden mixture - 60 g, superphosphate - 40 g, ammonium nitrate - 10 g.

Seeds can be sown directly into the ground. If this is done in early May, the harvest will be ripe by the end of August.

But usually broccoli is grown as seedlings. Seeds are sown in a box on March 10-15. Seedlings are planted in the ground at the end of April - beginning of May in deep, well-watered holes. Seedlings should not be allowed to overgrow, as it will be difficult to get good heads from overgrown ones. The best age of seedlings is 35-45 days.

If you want to have fresh broccoli in summer and autumn, sow the seeds for seedlings at intervals of 15-20 days. The last date for sowing is mid-June. When sowing seeds in a nursery at the beginning of May, plant the seedlings in the ground in mid-June, the harvest can be harvested at the end of July, and the last heads are cut off before frost.

Broccoli is very moisture-loving. When watering, the soil layer to a depth of 40 cm must be kept moist. The distance between rows should be 50-60 cm, and between plants in a row - 25-40 cm. Plants are planted more often on well-fertilized soil.

Caring for broccoli - weeding, loosening the soil, hilling up plants, fertilizing - is the same as for cauliflower, only when cultivating broccoli the heads are not shaded.

The large green heads on the central stem are cut before the buds open, while they are tender and tasty. There is no need to wait until the heads are very large. They are cut off with a part of the stem - 10-20 cm, which is also used for food. It is better to cut the heads early in the morning, when there is dew, or late in the evening: this way they will not wither longer.

An amateur gardener can also grow broccoli seeds. To do this, seedlings are planted in the ground at the end of April. On the best early ripening plants, leave 2-3 of the strongest shoots with heads. As soon as the heads bloom, the plant is tied to stakes, and the tops of the inflorescences in the center of the head are cut off by 10 cm. This is done because the seeds on the tops are formed much later than on the edge of the inflorescence: they do not have time to ripen. New shoots (stepchildren) that appear on the plant during this period must be removed immediately, this will speed up the ripening of the seeds.

It is necessary to exclude cross-pollination of broccoli with other cabbages or with plants related to them. To do this, the area is constantly weeded and seeds of other cabbages are not grown.

Before the onset of frost, the testes are pulled out and dried in a dry room for two weeks. Then the testes are threshed, the seeds are sifted, calibrated, checked for germination, and only then stored.

They eat broccoli just like cauliflower: boil it in salted water, sprinkle with crushed breadcrumbs and lightly fry in oil. This cabbage can be pickled and canned.

It is believed that to prevent cardiovascular and nervous diseases, it is useful to consume broccoli raw on an empty stomach.

According to statistics, cabbage is the most popular vegetable in the world, accounting for ¼ of the total number of vegetables eaten by humans.
A certain scientist, who believed that man descended from one monkey, believed that everyone descended from a single savage ancestor, the kale. The transformation of an inconspicuous tasty leaf into white cabbage, red cabbage, Beijing broccoli is due to the work of a huge army of gardeners, who not only changed the appearance of the plant, but also helped the native of the Mediterranean move to the northern regions of the planet.

Types of cabbage: white cabbage.

Red and white cabbage are sisters, just like in any family, one daughter was born like her father, and the other like her mother. If a gardener is blindfolded and given two heads of cabbage (a white Kolobok variety and a red Gako variety), he is unlikely to be able to distinguish them by touch. Unless it is within the capabilities and knowledge of a breeder scientist or agronomist.
The white cabbage heads are a little more tender, while the red cabbage heads are tougher and coarser. So the Kalibos variety is not inferior to its white sister here either.

How to choose a variety.

There are many varieties of white cabbage in our country, which is no wonder - our climatic conditions are too different in different areas and regions.
Some varieties need almost six months of warm weather, and in northern gardens there are only a hundred days without frost. Therefore, the choice of variety depends on the specific growing conditions of the crop - among the cabbage varieties there is no universal one that would give an equally good harvest in any place. Even old, long-grown varieties do not always produce dense, heavy, full-bodied heads. Then the gardeners say that this is not a cabbage year.
Varieties must be selected that are zoned, they are good for a certain area, they are resistant to the main diseases and pests of this area. For example, the cruciferous flea beetle is unlikely to be able to damage plants for the Southern Urals, because the varieties were bred taking into account possible locust invasions. And a variety bred for the Moscow region, most likely, ordinary aphids, together with their assistants black ants, will quickly leave the garden bed without seedlings.

Early and late cabbage.

The growing season is the time from full germination to harvesting. Sometimes they count from planting seedlings in the ground to harvesting.
Very early ripening varieties - period from 85 to 125 days. They are divided into ultra-early, early... Early and mid-early - from 125 days to 155 days. Mid-late from 130 days to 160 days, late-ripening from 150 to 220 days.

Types of cabbage: red cabbage.

Differs from white cabbage in the color of the leaves. They can be violet-green, just violet of varying color density, violet with a bluish bloom, red-violet, with red covering leaves, like Calibos.
But these are external differences. The benefits of red cabbage is a separate topic.
Purple head cabbage is not early ripening, only mid-late varieties that require 160 days to grow a head. But its heads are always dense and do not crack; it is more cold-resistant, less picky about soils and climate. This cabbage suffers less from diseases of cruciferous plants.

Dates and schemes for planting seedlings of two types of cabbage.

First, early ripening white cabbage is planted in the ground. In most regions of Russia this occurs at the end of April - beginning of May under covering material. Here it is important to help the plants take root, then slight cold snaps or frosts are not terrible. If there are no shelters, then you will have to wait until mid-May.
In the southern regions it can be planted in late March - early April.
Then late-ripening cabbage is planted in the ground. The usual date is mid-May. Seedlings of mid-early varieties are planted last - end of May.
This arrangement is advantageous: first, the early cabbage will be ready for harvesting, then the mid-season cabbage will come, and the late-ripening cabbage will need more time; it will be just in time for the onset of autumn frosts, so that it will be free of bitterness when fermented.

An interesting plate is given in an old directory.

Red cabbage is planted at the same time as mid-season and late-season white cabbage.

Types of cabbage: cauliflower and broccoli.

Both have a cap instead of a head of cabbage, only one is white or yellowish, and modern varieties have both a purple and orange color, the other has a cap that is cut off while it is green. If it turns yellow, then the cabbage should not be used, it has lost its taste and has become tough.

Cauliflower.

Cauliflower is a very early ripening crop: early ripening varieties take 85 days from germination to harvest. There are also very late varieties that require up to 250 days, well, this is not for our climate.
Cauliflower heads vary. The first three shapes are familiar to everyone; gardeners do not particularly distinguish between them, either round or flat-round.

Romanesco cabbage.

But the conical-lumpy cabbage is specially distinguished, believing that it is some kind of new species, and is called Romanesco cabbage. Its head is very beautiful, reminiscent of a snail shell twisted in a spiral, but not smooth, but consisting of a huge number of geometrically precise cones.

There are not many large cones, usually 10 or 15, but each cone also consists of smaller cones. Gorgeous! Actually, it's a hybrid of broccoli and cauliflower.

The name Romanesco is the name of the variety. There are also seeds of Tuscany or Early Tuscany on sale; it also has a cone-shaped head with tubercles. It is presented quite early, but I have never had success with it, there was not enough time before frost, the heads of cabbage showed their originality, but were small. Small ones are about half a kilogram. Although the description of the variety indicates up to 2 or 3 kilograms.

Broccoli.

Broccoli is a variety of cauliflower, also called asparagus. She is a tireless worker. It grows quickly, produces a harvest early, and then grows new shoots with smaller heads in the axils of the leaves for a long time.
The Italians call this cabbage “brocco” - shoot. These are the fertile stepsons of broccoli.
Early cauliflower is planted in open ground in early May, mid-season varieties in mid-June and until the end of June for the autumn harvest. The same deadlines are observed for planting broccoli.

Types of cabbage: Savoy and Brussels sprouts.

Curly parsley, ornamental cabbage that can be used in the kitchen like any other, bright beets, herbs and Brussels sprouts.
It has such a beautiful stem with small heads that gardeners could easily grow it as a focal plant: after all, another name for cabbage rose. But she is so useful that they assigned her a place in the garden beds.

Savoy cabbage is named after the Italian county of Savoy. It has loose, corrugated leaves that are not suitable for pickling or pickling, but in cabbage soup or stewed it is much tastier than cabbage cabbage.
Savoy early-ripening cabbage is planted in early May, and late-ripening at the end of May.
For Russians, Brussels sprouts are always late-ripening; they are planted at the same time as late-ripening white cabbage, that is, at the end of May.

Types of cabbage: kohlrabi.

This cabbage has almost no leaves; it grows them to decorate its head (correctly called a stem) with sparse hairs.
This cabbage looks more like a turnip, only the leaves grow differently. The ancient Romans called it that - stem turnip. And we believe that this huge stalk grows on a thin root.
It is good because it does not take up much space, it can be used to compact plantings, because it is also early ripening.

Kohlrabi can be planted in the ground at 2 times: early in early May, late in mid-June. This extends the time of use of the crop.

Types of cabbage: Chinese, Chinese, mizuna.

Its head is similar to a head of romaine lettuce. It can be quite dense. The shape distinguishes a closed head of cabbage, when the upper leaves form something similar to a man in a raincoat, the same wrapped from head to toe, no rain will wet it. And there are open heads of cabbage, with a socket at the top.

Cabbage with a closed head can be stored well in the cellar until spring if it is properly wrapped in cling film. Heads of cabbage in the form of a bell are stored worse. They are best used for cooking according to the Korean recipe.

Chinese cabbage prized for its thickened leaf petiole, which tastes similar to its cabbage relative. There are several varieties, Pak Choi colors its petioles greenish. Does not tolerate transplantation, it must be sown in a permanent place.
Mizuna is a new cabbage for us, unusual. There are currently two own varieties; in the State Register you can find the Little Mermaid and the Dude, but they are not zoned.

Schemes for placing seedlings of all types of cabbage.

It all depends on the timing of ripening. The first numbers are the distance between the rows, the second numbers are the distance between plants in the row:

• early varieties 40-50 x 35-40 cm
• mid-early varieties 50-60 x 50-60 cm
• mid-late varieties 70 x 60 cm
• late varieties 70-80 x 60-70 cm

You can plant seedlings using the square-nest method. Then the distances between plants will be as follows:

• early varieties 40 x 40 cm
• medium varieties 50 x 50 cm
• late varieties 60 x 60 cm
• late varieties 70 x 70 cm
• late varieties 80 x 80 cm

The difference in distances when growing using the square-nest method depends on the specific characteristics of the variety or hybrid.

Seedlings are planted in the ground not only at different times, but also the age of the seedlings must be different. If you need a harvest of early cabbage, then the seedlings should be 2 months old; for mid-ripening varieties, the age of the seedlings is 40 days; for late-ripening varieties and hybrids, one and a half months.

Your eyes are afraid to read, but your hands will grow wonderful cabbage, even all the species described here.
In a new article I’ll tell you why we need to learn to grow types of cabbage that are new to us, and why we need to get used to their tastes. Wait for an article about the benefits of cabbage.

Pests and diseases of cabbage: photos, description

Cabbage (lat. Brassica oleracea) is an irreplaceable agricultural crop present in the diet of every person. All its types contain a huge amount of vitamins and are used to prepare fresh salads and preparations for the winter. On our website you will find information about what diseases and pests of cabbage are found in Russia and how to deal with them.

Characteristics of white cabbage disease in pictures will help you quickly recognize the disease, begin treatment and protect other types of cruciferous vegetables. Timely treatment helps to destroy fungal spores at an early stage, before significant damage to the plant, which contributes to the complete preservation of crop productivity.

Fungal diseases of cabbage and the fight against them photo

Cabbage diseases that reduce fertility can lead to complete loss of the harvest, and methods to combat them will be useful to every gardener. A specific disease can affect either a single type of cruciferous vegetable or all of their varieties. Therefore, it is recommended to use comprehensive control methods: agrotechnical, chemical and folk.

Clubroot (lat. Plasmodiophora brassicae Wor)

The root of an infected plant is covered with growths of various shapes. Such formations interfere with the normal nutrition of cabbage, as a result of which they gradually wither, lag behind in development, and can be easily pulled out of the soil.

Clubroot attacks white cabbage and cauliflower. The planting location does not matter since the fungus is spread by wind, rain and insects. Clubroot does not belong to the group that includes cabbage diseases that are especially dangerous for yield, and the measures taken to combat them are not aggressive.

In the process of controlling clubroot, only prevention of spread is used to prevent infection of neighboring cruciferous crops and beds. To do this, you should not plant diseased seedlings. Weakened and dead sprouts must be removed along with a lump of earth, and the holes must be sprinkled with lime. Before planting seedlings in the soil, it is recommended to treat the soil with lime at the rate of 1 kg per 4 sq.m.

The removed soil can be used for other garden crops, since clubroot fungus only affects cruciferous crops.

Downy mildew (lat. Peronospora)

• the disease begins to manifest itself at the seedling stage;
• gray and yellow spots appear on the leaves; a whitish coating can be found on the underside;
• gradually the affected leaves wither and die;
• plants develop poorly.

Downy mildew develops best in conditions of high humidity. Downy mildew can cause a lot of trouble for farmers and destroy the entire crop. You can effectively fight the disease with the help of proven drugs Phytophtorin and Ridomil Gold.

For those who do not want to use aggressive chemicals, it is recommended to treat the planting with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture: to spray seedlings, you need to use 0.2 liters of liquid per bucket of water, and for stronger plants, the dose is increased to 0.5 liters.

Preventive measures against the appearance of downy mildew are: disinfection of soil and planting material, regulation of soil moisture (watering with cold water contributes to the development of the disease). It is also important to observe crop rotation - you should not replant a crop in one place; the best predecessors are: cucumbers, potatoes, beans, green manure.

Fusarium (lat. Fusarium)

Fungal diseases of cabbage are very common, and combating them is not difficult if detected and treated in a timely manner. Fusarium is such a disease.

The causative agent of Fusarium wilt or tracheomycosis is the fungus Fusarium oxysporum f. sp. conglutinans. The disease affects all types of cruciferous crops. The fungus, penetrating into the vascular system of plants, clogs it, causing wilting. This disease is popularly called jaundice due to the characteristic symptoms:

• yellow spots appear between the veins;
• gradually the entire leaf turns yellow and dries out;
• on the cut of the base of the leaves, brown spots are visible - the mycelium of the fungus;
• the established head of cabbage is very small and has an irregular shape.

As with all fungal diseases, in case of Fusarium wilt it is recommended to remove infected plants and treat the plantings with systemic benzimidazoles fungicides: Benomyl, Tecto, Topsin-M.

The fungus can maintain its vital activity in the soil for several more years, so it is necessary to follow the rules of cabbage crop rotation - do not plant in one place several times in a row, and also remove plant debris from the soil.

Viral diseases of cabbage: photos and their treatment

Cauliflower mosaic

Viral diseases of cauliflower are much less common than fungal diseases, and the fight against them raises many questions. Mosaic caulivirus is the causative agent of the cauliflower mosaic virus. Despite the name, it is the most dangerous disease of all cruciferous crops, including all types of cabbage.

Its manifestation can be detected only a month after planting the seedlings: dark green edges appear on the leaves along the veins; Necrotic spots gradually form between the veins.

Turnip mosaic (lat. Turnip mosaic)

The causative agent is Turnip mosaic virus. The virus has a popular name - black ring spot of cabbage. Leaves with a strain of viral infection are covered with light green spots.

They are best visible on the underside of the cabbage leaf. The spots darken, grow and merge, forming necrotic spots that lead to defoliation - untimely falling of leaves.

Ways to protect cabbage from viral infections

Mosaic is viral in nature and cannot be treated with insecticides. That is why it is necessary to pay special attention to prevention:

Mosaic is most often transmitted by mechanical damage and sucking insects (aphids, mites), so it is necessary to effectively combat pests that carry the virus.

Cabbage diseases and how to combat them video

Cabbage pests: photos, descriptions and treatment

Detailed information about cabbage pests and methods of combating them with folk and chemical means can be found in our article.

Cabbage aphid (lat. Brevicoryne brassicae)

Even in the spring, when planting the first seedlings, aphids settle in colonies on young cabbage. The presence of a pest can be determined by external signs:

• plant development slows down;
• the leaves lose their natural color and a pink tint appears;
• Gradually the leaves curl and die.

To combat aphids, insecticides are used, such as: Karbofos, Iskra, Karate. In a small private household, you can scare off unwanted insects with the pungent smell of tobacco, infusion of garlic or onion peels. Aphids do not tolerate proximity to carrots and tomatoes.

Cabbage fly (lat. Delia radicum)

White cabbage and cauliflower, whose pests and diseases are usually different, can be affected by the cabbage fly. The insect is practically no different in appearance from the common house fly.

Starting from the end of May, the cabbage fly lays eggs in the soil, and a week later the young larvae begin to feast on the root system of the plants. You can determine the presence of a fly on cabbage by the appearance of the bushes:

• the roots rot and the plant is easily pulled out of the soil;
• the bushes wither;
• the lower leaves take on a leaden gray color.

If a pest is detected, the plantings are treated with a 30% Thiophos solution. The drug is diluted with water to a concentration of 0.03%, consumption per plant is 0.25 liters. A 65% solution of Chlorophos, diluted to a concentration of 0.25%, effectively fights flies. Consumption - 0.2 l per bush.

You can scare away the pest with the strong smell of tobacco mixed in equal proportions with lime. 1 part naphthalene with 7 parts sand will also help cope with the problem.

Cruciferous flea beetles (lat. Phyllotreta cruciferae)

Small oblong black bugs live in the soil, and with the arrival of spring they begin to feed on young plants: first weeds, then seedlings. Affecting all types of cruciferous plants, flea beetles feed on the upper layers of the leaf, leaving behind sores.

Young plants often cannot tolerate the pest and die, while older and stronger plants do not produce a good enough harvest. The peculiarity of the cruciferous flea beetle is that it does not tolerate wet weather.

Among the folk methods of control, spraying of plantings with a soap solution, or dusting with a mixture of wood ash and road dust is often used. Among the chemical preparations, insecticides such as Karbofos, Aktara have proven themselves.

Bottom line

They will help you recognize the signs of insect activity and determine what the cabbage is infected with - diseases and pests, photos of which are presented in this article. By starting treatment at the first symptoms, and choosing suitable chemicals, or equally effective folk recipes, you can save the harvest.