How to care for a hydrangea flower. What does indoor hydrangea need for active growth and flowering? What does hydrangea like, lighting and temperature?

Appearing in Europe in the eighteenth century, hydrangea immediately became the star of gardens and greenhouses. Delicate heat-loving bushes brought from Japan were pampered and cherished, admiring the lush ball-shaped inflorescences. The active work of breeders in England, France and Germany allowed hydrangea to fill European gardens, becoming more frost-resistant, obtaining more varied flower colors and easier care.

An interesting feature of hydrangea is its property change color of flowers depending on soil acidity. Blue shades appear only on acidic soils. The same plant planted in alkaline soil will turn pink. Watering with special mixtures that change the acidity of the soil allows you to achieve the desired color of hydrangea. Such care is easier to carry out in a potted culture.

The hydrangea family includes more than 70 species, which differ in the shape and size of the inflorescences, and the height of the bush. There are evergreen species, climbing and dwarf, which are used for landscaping parks, private gardens and vegetable gardens. Caring for hydrangea is easy.

Most varieties of hydrangeas have similar requirements for growth conditions, with the exception of frost resistance and shade tolerance. Knowing how to care for hydrangea, you can choose a variety for your climate zone or try to create special conditions for the plant you like.

The soil

For hydrangeas need breathable soil, which retains moisture well and has a slightly acidic reaction. The addition of peat and humus will help improve its quality. To increase frost resistance and more abundant flowering, you need to add potash fertilizers in the form of potassium sulfate. The addition of nitrogen, on the contrary, reduces resistance to frost.

If you want your hydrangea to have inflorescences in blue and blue tones, the soil should be more acidic and contain iron and aluminum. Low acidity close to neutral and high phosphorus content leads to the appearance of pink-red shades in the inflorescences. This treatment does not affect the white color.

Illumination and temperature

Hydrangea in sunny areas can only grow if there is sufficient soil moisture. For most species, light shade is preferred.

The frost resistance of different species varies from very hardy, withstanding frost down to -40 ° C, to completely intolerant of frost. For many species, light shelter for the winter is sufficient; some require more serious protection. The most tender varieties can be grown in containers, providing special care and taking it out into the open air during the warm season.

Watering

All types of hydrangeas require regular watering, especially in dry, sandy soils and in bright sunlight. There should always be a lot of moisture It is advisable to cover the soil at the roots with a layer of mulch. This is the main care for hydrangea. Only paniculate hydrangeas tolerate dry weather well.

Trimming

After flowering, dried flowers retain their decorative properties until spring, so they are not cut. As flowers appear on the current year's shoots, Hydrangeas are pruned in early spring. Dry inflorescences are removed before the first pair of strong buds. Shorter pruning may cause poor flowering. Only paniculata hydrangea requires severe pruning. If the bush is too thick, remove old, weak and crooked branches at the root. Pruning is carried out annually.

If you neglect regular pruning, after a few years the bush becomes very thick, the inflorescences become smaller, and their size decreases. At the same time, the decorativeness of the plantings suffers; the hydrangea has an unkempt, neglected appearance. In order for new shoots to produce powerful growth, proper care is needed; the plants are fed with fertilizers.

Young, newly planted bushes do not need heavy pruning; only damaged and weak branches should be removed. Next spring, the branches are shortened by 1/3. More mature plants are pruned depending on the variety. The branches of tall, fast-growing plants are pruned more heavily than those of short-growing plants. Old bushes can be rejuvenated by hard pruning to the old wood; this care will allow flowering to occur within a year.

Popular types

• Large-leaved hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) is the same species that first conquered Europe. Its large bushes covered with bright green leaves and large spherical inflorescences are a real decoration of the garden. The inflorescences can have all sorts of colors in various shades of blue, pink and white. There are varieties with yellowish leaves and unusually colored stems. Hydrangeas of this type do not do well in bright sun and need partial shade. Timely, abundant watering is very important for them. To obtain a blue color of flowers, it is recommended to mulch with leaf humus, spruce needles and peat; in addition, aluminum alum is used for watering at the rate of 2 grams per 1 liter of water. For the winter it requires shelter and needs care more than other species.
• Hydrangea paniculata (H. paniculata) has pyramidal inflorescences of beige color, which gradually turn pink in autumn. This plant has very powerful growth and can grow up to two meters in a year, so it needs strong annual pruning. Can grow into a large tree up to 10 meters tall. From summer to late autumn, paniculata hydrangea is covered with flowers and has a very decorative look. It is very hardy, frost-resistant and grows in one place for a long time, without requiring special care, which makes it a valuable plant for urban landscaping.
• Petiole hydrangea (H. petiolaris) is a climbing shrub that can climb a support to a height of up to 25 meters, using tenacious aerial roots. In nature, it entwines tree trunks, so it loves partial shade. If it does not find suitable support, it spreads along the ground. Petiole hydrangea is an excellent honey plant. It looks great against the background of plants with dark leaves.
• Serrata hydrangea (H. serrata) is distinguished by umbrella-shaped inflorescences, the diameter of which is about 15 cm. It is a light-loving shrub that grows up to 1.5 m in height, requiring abundant watering. This plant requires good fertile soil, for which it generously thanks for long, abundant flowering.
• Tree hydrangea (H. arborescens) has a height of up to 2 meters. Its inflorescences are large white balls. This is a good honey plant. The plant is moderately frost-resistant and recovers quickly when frozen. Grows well in bright places on fertile, well-moistened soils. Has excellent decorative qualities.
• Radiant hydrangea (H. radiata) is a shrub up to 2 m high. A distinctive feature is the silvery tint of the leaves. White corymbose inflorescences have a diameter of about 12 cm and adorn the plant from July to August. Prefers acidic soils, well-lit places, tolerates light shade. Requires covering of the root system for the winter with foliage or soil. When frozen, it recovers well.
• Oakleaf hydrangea (H. quercifolia) has rough leaves, shaped like oak leaves. Its height reaches 2 m. It has white cone-shaped inflorescences. The autumn foliage color is very decorative, ranging from burgundy to purple.
• Bretschneideri hydrangea (H. Bretshneideri) is a large deciduous shrub up to 4 m tall and up to 3 m in diameter with very large dark green leaves. An excellent option for a hedge, since the plant is frost and drought resistant. Autumn leaf color is yellow-brown. The inflorescences are corymbose, flowering is abundant and regular.
• Hydrangea Sargentiana (H. Sargentiana) is distinguished by very large inflorescences up to 30 cm, consisting of a ring of pink flowers surrounding a purple center, and velvety dark green leaves. The height of the bush is up to 4 m. Flowering occurs at the end of summer. It is a good honey plant.
• Indoor hydrangea grown in pots will be a wonderful decoration for the windowsill if you care for it properly. For these purposes, heat-loving evergreen varieties are used. The plant will delight with its flowering from spring to late autumn, in winter time enlivening the interior with green foliage. The color of the inflorescences can be very different - from white and pale blue to red and purple. Very often the color changes gradually from the beginning of flowering to the end. During the warm season, pots of hydrangea can be taken out into the garden or onto the balcony, not forgetting about regular watering and shading from the hot sun.

Hydrangea propagation

There are several ways to obtain new plants. Each of them has its own characteristics. The following methods of reproduction are possible:

• cuttings;
• receiving layerings;
• dividing the bush;
• sowing seeds;
• graft.

They are complex and labor-intensive, and also depend on the variety, since some hydrangeas have sterile flowers and reproduce only vegetatively.

Cuttings

This is the most common method of propagating hydrangeas. There are types of cuttings:

• spring;
• summer;
• winter.

With the onset of June, spring cuttings are taken from young shoots with a heel - part of last year's growth. Summer July cuttings are prepared from the non-lignified part of the branches. Use the upper parts of the shoots with two internodes, the leaf blades are cut to the middle to reduce moisture evaporation.

The soil used is a mixture of peat and sand in a 2:1 ratio or sheet soil on which a layer of sand is poured. A prerequisite for caring for hydrangea is to ensure high humidity - constant watering or artificial fog. Rooting lasts three to four weeks. Usually, the percentage of rooted cuttings is very high, especially when treated with growth stimulants. In cold regions, rooted cuttings are grown in greenhouses, basements or pots, where they are easier to care for until planted in a permanent place after two years.

Large-leaved hydrangea can be propagated by winter cuttings. To do this, the mother bush is transplanted into a pot in the fall and kept at a temperature around zero. In mid-winter, the plant is transferred to a room with a temperature of about 10 ° C, where after two weeks the kidneys begin to wake up. In February the shoots reach the right size and they can be used for rooting in the same way as summer ones.

Dividing the bush and layering

Any hydrangea can be propagated by dividing the bush. To do this, in spring or autumn, the bush must be dug up and the rhizome divided so that each part has several renewal buds. The delenki are immediately planted in a permanent place and watered.

To obtain layering, last year's shoot is tilted to the ground and placed in a pre-prepared hole. Part of the shoot is sprinkled with soil so that several buds are covered with soil. The tip of the shoot, about 20 cm long, should be on the surface, and care consists of regular watering. The following year, the rooted cuttings can be planted. Damage to the shoot in the form of a cut in the underground part accelerates the formation of roots.

Sowing seeds

Species hydrangeas are propagated using seeds. For this purpose, the site is prepared in the fall. The bed should be 25 cm above ground level. It is dug up, adding peat and compost. On heavy soils, adding sand is required. Sowing begins in April or May, after removing all weeds and leveling the beds. Hydrangea seeds do not need any processing. They are scattered by hand and sprinkled with a layer of sand on top. It is necessary to keep the soil moist, not allowing it to dry out during seed germination. Shoots appear in about a month. Tender seedlings require care and careful care - watering, weeding, regular fertilizing with nitrogen and potassium fertilizers.

Hydrangeas are a magnificent garden decoration, both in single plantings and in groups with other ornamental shrubs, and caring for them is not at all difficult.

Europeans have known home hydrangea since the 16th century, when it was imported from China and Japan. Even then she could be provided with proper care at home. Today, more than 100 species of one of the most popular and beloved indoor plants are known. The value of the plant lies in its long, abundant flowering, which made it a favorite in the gardens of France and England. However, in room conditions They mainly grow large-leaved hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), a shrub that can grow up to 4 m in height.

Types and varieties of indoor hydrangea

Typical for all home hydrangeas general shape The leaf is ovate, wide, juicy green. The inflorescences of a white, pink or blue hue are scutes reaching a diameter of up to 15-20 cm. Each flower can be 3 cm in diameter. Only those inflorescences that are located in the center of the scute are capable of forming an ovary with seeds, and the edge ones are sterile. The aroma is pleasant, similar to jasmine.

All varieties in stores selling well-formed bushes or planting material are conventionally divided by shade, since by creating certain conditions for the plant, you can achieve a change in the shade of its flowers.

Hydrangea in a pot

White varieties:

• Madame Emile Mouillere is a French variety bred in 1909. The spherical inflorescences are initially boiling white, and then turn slightly pink. Flower buds are laid on shoots for 2 years. Loves partial shade.
• Soeur Therese is a large bush that grows up to 120 cm in height. It requires a special choice of location, as it suffers from burns in the hot sun, and stops blooming in strong shade. It blooms in small white inflorescences with pointed ends of the petals.

Pink varieties:

Blue varieties:

• Airlie Blue blooms from June to September. A compact bush on a windowsill grows up to 80 cm in height. Large inflorescences do not form seeds, so the variety is propagated only by layering, dividing the rhizome and cuttings. Unlike many other varieties, this one forms flower buds on all shoots.
• Ramars Mars is one of the most popular varieties, distinguished by its lush bright blue inflorescences up to 20 cm in diameter. Requires classic care, including pruning.

The purchased flower should be planted in a new pot a couple of days after purchase. If the planting material is seeds, then sowing is carried out in mid-April, when the sun is bright enough. Propagation by cuttings is carried out in the summer, choosing for this young branches with 3-4 buds.

Hydrangea: home care

This is not to say that hydrangea can be planted in any home and guaranteed to get excellent results. It's all about the plant's demands on temperature conditions. In an apartment where the room temperature is above 22°C in summer, the hydrangea in the pot will first begin to wither and then die. All varieties of ancient selection are distinguished by this property. Among young domestic hybrids bred abroad, there are more resistant specimens, but all of them are intended primarily for growing in the garden. The list of rules on how to care for hydrangea in a pot is small, but you will have to follow them strictly.

Important! The optimal temperature regime during the period of active growth and flowering from March to November is from 18°C ​​to 20°C. If you provide it to your home bush, you can rest assured - it will definitely bloom and actively grow green mass.

In winter, the plant needs a period of rest. It must be provided, because without it all next year the bush will not bloom.

Next, you should wait until the plant has finished blooming to perform formative pruning. Remove excess shoots and shorten the top. At the same time, it is important to leave enough branches of this year, because it is on them that flower buds will be laid in winter. For all winter months The hydrangea is transferred from the house in a pot to a room where the temperature is maintained at 10-12°C.

Important! Watering in winter is rarely done, only after completely dry earthen coma.

Watering and required humidity

High air humidity is exactly what all potted hydrangeas love. The bush responds positively to spraying the foliage with water from a fine spray bottle. They do this in the mornings and evenings. Watering is carried out in compliance with certain rules:

Lighting for indoor hydrangea

Determine a suitable place for a pot of hydrangea by general rule: There should be no direct sunlight, but too much shade is bad. Ideally, place the pot on a high stand and place it 1-2 m from a window facing south. Direct sunlight causes burns on the leaves and will not allow the bush to bloom buds.

Important! The pot cannot be moved from place to place, as the plant responds extremely negatively to this plant. It is noteworthy that even in winter the bush cannot be left without light. At this time, it is recommended to provide additional illumination with phytolamps, extending the daylight hours to 10 hours.

Hydrangea is also demanding about the supply of fresh air. During the day, you should open a window next to it for ventilation, but not for long. If you take the pots out onto a cool balcony or terrace in the summer, this will create for the whimsical flower ideal conditions both in terms of illumination and fresh air supply.

The main problems when growing in a pot

By the appearance of the bush you can always determine what kind of problem is tormenting it. this moment. So, when leaves dry out, the cause is insufficient watering; excessive dry air can cause the same troubles to delicate and sensitive foliage.

If possible, pots with hydrangea are placed close to aquariums or other containers with water. Regular (twice a day) spraying of foliage helps a lot. Watering in each case is selected individually, and in rooms with very dry air they even use a second tray into which water is poured. This creates evaporation around the flower, to which the leaves always respond favorably.

Hydrangea seeds

Yellowing foliage is another common problem. It occurs due to insufficient soil acidity. Watering with water acidified with lemon juice helps. The proportion is small - only 5 drops of fresh juice per 1 liter of water.

Pests and diseases of indoor hydrangea

The most common diseases and pests found indoors are:

Fertilizer for indoor hydrangea

In the summer months, the bush needs regular (2 times a week) feeding. The optimal composition of the fertilizer is as follows:

• 30 g of potassium sulfate;
• 40 g superphosphate;
• 30 g ammonium nitrate.

This amount must be dissolved in 10 liters of water. Such intensive subcortical treatments are stopped in the second half of August. By the time the plant stops blooming and it’s time to prune it, fertilizers are no longer added when watering. In winter, no fertilizing is applied.

How to change color at home

The owner has an excellent opportunity to get flowers of the shade that he likes best on the same plant. To do this, it is enough to choose the optimal soil composition:

All hydrangeas thrive in gardens and at home if the climate is suitable for them. If there is shelter in the southern regions, they can even wait out the winter. garden shrub much more impressive than lilac or jasmine, because the flowering period is much longer. At home, hydrangeas also require frequent watering, since otherwise its leaves will begin to dry.

Hydrangea attracts attention with its beauty and long flowering. When grown in open ground Luxurious bushes with a large number of large inflorescences delight the eye, and in a potted plant the plant is much more compact, but this makes the inflorescences look no less impressive.

Hydrangea: flower description

Hydrangeas are beautiful and varied. Among the representatives of the genus there are vines, small trees and shrubs. Deciduous and evergreen species are known. The plants owe their popularity to their beautiful large inflorescences of spherical, corymbose or paniculate shape.

Features of growing hydrangea

Hydrangea cannot be called a problematic or difficult to care for plant, but still the flower makes a number of requirements for the conditions of its maintenance, without which it is impossible to achieve active growth and lush flowering. Particular attention must be paid to soil acidity and watering. Most species are grown in open ground, but there are also indoor plants that are considered as such due to their low frost resistance.

Planting hydrangea

Proper fit is key successful cultivation plants. Most species, subject to abundant watering and proper preparation of the soil mixture, tolerate the procedure well, but when choosing a location, you should definitely take into account the species characteristics of the plant.

Attention! Hydrangea paniculata does not tolerate transplantation very well, so it is important not to make a mistake and choose right away optimal place for landing.

Planting methods

Hydrangea is grown both in open ground and in pots. After planting, the soil must be mulched. Some species are recommended to be buried deep when planting to stimulate the formation of adventitious roots, but most plants require the root collar to be higher than the soil.

Attention! It is not allowed to bury paniculata hydrangea.

Optimal time for planting

Both spring and autumn are suitable for planting hydrangea in the garden, but when choosing the optimal time, you need to pay attention to the climatic features of the growing region. Plants grown indoors are best replanted in the spring.

Soil for the plant

The plant prefers humus-rich, water- and breathable, acidic and slightly acidic soils. Neutral and alkaline soils lead to chlorosis of leaves and a decrease in the decorativeness of the plant. When preparing the soil mixture yourself, you must use the following components:

• Leaf soil;
• Acidic high peat;
• Sand;
• Humus.

Advice! For planting hydrangeas, ready-made soil mixtures for rhododendrons and azaleas are suitable.

Planting hydrangeas in autumn

In open ground, autumn planting can only be done in regions with a warm climate so that the plants have enough time to take root. With such planting, sometimes you can admire the flowers the next year.

Planting hydrangea in spring

Spring planting of hydrangea is preferable for both indoor and garden plants. The optimal time for such a procedure is late April - early May. Annual shoots are pruned, leaving 3-4 buds. It is recommended to trim the roots only if there is damage.

Features of caring for hydrangea

Caring for hydrangea is not complicated and consists of timely pruning, watering and fertilizing. However, when choosing a location when growing in open ground, it is necessary to take into account the species characteristics.

Location and lighting for the plant

In the apartment you need to choose a bright place for the plant. Short-term exposure to direct sunlight on the leaves is allowed only in the morning and evening. Insufficient lighting affects the flowering of the plant. In the summer, it is recommended to take indoor hydrangeas outside.

In the open ground sunny places Only paniculate hydrangea is preferred. Other species prefer light partial shade, and some species, such as tree hydrangea, are considered shade-tolerant.

Advice! Most species can grow in sunny areas if watered regularly and abundantly.

The planting site should not be windy, and in indoor conditions the plant should be placed away from drafts.

Air humidity

This indicator is especially important for indoor hydrangeas. The plant loves high air humidity, in the range of 50-60%. Particular attention should be paid to increasing air humidity during the operation of radiators. At this time, it is better to place the plant on a tray with wet pebbles or expanded clay. In summer, no special measures are required to maintain humidity. It is not advisable to spray the plant, because when the flowers come into contact with droplet-liquid moisture, red spots remain.

Content temperature

All hydrangeas are heat-loving, but can also withstand frost. However, there are species that, due to their low winter hardiness, are grown as indoors. During the period of active growth, the optimal temperature is 2224 °C. During the dormant period, it is very important to provide the plant with a lower temperature, since the flowering of hydrangea depends on this. After the leaves fall, the pot with the plant is placed in a cool, dark place with a temperature of 810 °C.

How to water correctly

The scientific name of hydrangea is Hydrangea, which translates as a vessel with water. This name reflects the plant's relationship to moisture. Most species require constantly moist soil. For example, in large-leaved hydrangea, even short-term drying of the soil leads to the falling of flowers and leaves.

Advice! If maintaining regular humidity is difficult, you should give preference to paniculata hydrangea, which does not react so sharply to drying.

For irrigation you need soft water with a minimum calcium content. It is good if the water was softened and acidified by infusing it with acidic peat.

Feeding and fertilizing the flower

Intensive growth and long flowering require a lot of nutrients, which means fertilization is necessary. During the period of active growth and flowering, fertilizing should be regular and carried out every 2-3 weeks. In open ground, adult plants are fed during the formation of buds, and young plants are recommended to be additionally fed in early spring.

The optimal fertilizing option is complex liquid fertilizers. Suitable fertilizers for azaleas and products for flowering plants.

Attention! Fertilizing with organic fertilizers should be very moderate, since overfeeding enhances plant growth but prevents flowering.

Trimming

Most hydrangeas require regular pruning, but the specifics depend on the species.

Trimming methods

Before pruning, you need to understand why it is done and know the characteristics of the species. We can roughly distinguish 3 types of pruning:

• Sanitary. Faded inflorescences, frozen, weak and dried shoots that spoil appearance plants;
• Regular. This pruning is carried out annually in order to stimulate flowering. Species that bloom on annual growths (hydrangea paniculata) are pruned by 3-4 buds to encourage the growth of young shoots. Species that bloom on perennial growths (large-leaved hydrangea) are not pruned.
• Rejuvenating. Anti-aging pruning is applied to species flowering on perennial shoots. In bushes that are too dense, ¼ of the shoots are cut out, i.e. every fourth. Old bushes are sometimes cut into stumps to achieve complete rejuvenation. In this case, flowering will occur only in the second year.

Interesting! Varieties of large-leaved hydrangea have been developed that are capable of blooming on annual growths. Such plants are pruned every spring.

Pruning hydrangea in autumn

In autumn, all inflorescences are pruned. They weigh down the bush and can cause damage to branches during heavy snowfall.

Pruning hydrangea in spring

Spring pruning is considered the main one. First of all, in the spring, all frozen and damaged shoots are cut back to living wood, and regular pruning is also carried out in accordance with the species or varietal characteristics.

Transfer

The need for replanting depends on growing conditions and species. Large-leaved hydrangea, when grown in a pot, needs annual replanting. Garden hydrangeas are replanted if necessary. There may be several reasons for a transplant:

• Poorly chosen landing site;
• An overgrown bush that needs division.

Transplant methods

Transplantation must be carried out with minimal damage to the roots. After flowering, indoor plants are simply cut off and transferred to a larger pot. Garden hydrangeas are dug up with a lump and moved to a new place. It is recommended to combine replanting and radical pruning to the stump.

It is advisable to prepare old bushes for replanting in advance. To do this, dig a trench around the plant, which is filled with a light substrate such as humus. In this zone, the plant will form a large number of young roots, which will allow you to painlessly move the bush next year by digging it along the outer perimeter of the trench.

Transplantation in autumn

Transplantation in autumn is possible only in warm regions. Sometimes it is carried out in early spring, or even in summer, immediately after flowering.

Transplantation in spring

Spring replanting is easy for most plants. It is recommended to combine this procedure with regular or anti-aging pruning. To determine the optimal time for replanting, it is necessary to correctly assess the condition of the plant. Bushes that are dormant can be replanted immediately after the soil thaws. Plants with swollen and blossoming buds are transplanted only after the threat of frost has passed.

Plant propagation

The need to propagate hydrangeas arises if you want to get another specimen of a certain variety or rejuvenate the plant, which is often necessary for indoor hydrangeas.

Reproduction methods (Basic techniques, subtleties)

All methods of plant propagation are suitable for hydrangea:

• Seeds;
• Cuttings (green and lignified);
• By layering;
• Root suckers;
• Dividing the bush.

Propagation of hydrangea by cuttings

For propagation, you can use winter (lignified) and summer (non-lignified) cuttings. Winter cuttings are harvested in early spring, before growth begins, and summer cuttings immediately after the formation of young buds.

Each cutting must have 2 internodes. For summer cuttings, the leaves at the bottom of the shoot are removed and the leaves at the top are pruned. For rooting, cuttings are planted in a light substrate in a greenhouse with high humidity.

Propagation by seeds

The seed method is not complicated, but it is used quite rarely. Sowing of seeds is carried out in February. No pre-sowing preparation or treatment is required. The first shoots appear after 3 weeks. At first, young plants are kept at high air humidity in a seed box or greenhouse. Only after the appearance of the first true leaf is the plant transplanted into individual pots.

Reproduction by layering

Simple and effective method. In early spring, a young annual shoot of the plant is pinned to the ground and sprinkled with a little soil. At the point of contact with the soil, the bark of the twig is slightly damaged to stimulate the formation of roots.

Reproduction by root suckers

Mature bushes often form shoots that can be separated painlessly for the mother plant. To do this, the soil around the shoot is raked and the cuttings with roots are separated from the mother plant.

Dividing the bush

Adult bushes can be divided into several parts during transplantation. Each division has its shoots and roots shortened before planting in a new location. At first, the plants need to be provided with abundant watering.

Hydrangea blossom

It is for the sake of flowering that various types and varieties of hydrangeas are grown. The efforts of breeders are aimed at developing new varieties with different colors of petals, transitions from one color to another, shape and size of inflorescences.

When a plant blooms, the shape of the flower

Flowering of some species begins in July and can continue until October. The flowers are small and of two types: small fertile and sterile, surrounded by large sepals resembling petals. The shape of the inflorescence depends on the type of plant. Large-leaved and tree-shaped hydrangeas have spherical inflorescences, paniculate hydrangeas are cone-shaped, groundcover and petiolate umbellate.

Features of changes in the color of inflorescences

The plant has a characteristic unusual feature. Hydrangeas change color depending on the acidity of the soil and the presence of certain chemical elements. For most species, the natural color of the inflorescences is pink or white. However, by adding aluminum compounds, iron alum, or organic substances that change the pH (pine sawdust, coniferous bark, acidic peat) to the soil, you can turn white hydrangea blue and pink hydrangea purple.

Interesting! Sometimes by adding substances that cause color changes, only in small areas of the soil, you can achieve the appearance of inflorescences of different colors on one bush.

Problems, diseases and pests of a flower

In indoor conditions, hydrangea can be affected by aphids, spider mites and stem nematodes. Under unsatisfactory conditions of detention, various diseases can occur:

• Gray rot;
• Ring spot;
• Powdery mildew.

Popular types

The genus Hydrangea has slightly more than 50 species, but give them general characteristics Not sure it's going to happen. Different kinds genera can differ greatly in growth patterns and other characteristics.

Hydrangea paniculata

It is grown in open ground and can reach 10 m. Standard formations are often used for this species. This hydrangea owes its name to the shape of the inflorescences, which can reach 25 cm in length, and in some varieties up to 30 cm.

The hydrangea vanilla ‘Vanille Fraise’ deserves special attention, which means vanilla horn. The shape and color of the flower resemble ice cream. Immediately after blooming, the inflorescences are white, but gradually the petals begin to turn pink color.

Hydrangea largeleaf

The second name of this species is garden hydrangea, but its low winter hardiness forces it to be kept as indoor plant. Numerous varieties of this plant are known, distinguished by the color of the inflorescences, color combinations, and the presence of a white or pink border on the petals. This species is best used to produce blue inflorescences.

Several new varieties deserve special attention, which are not only able to overwinter under cover in the open ground, but also bloom on annual shoots. These varieties include ‘ Hovaria Mirai'.

Hydrangea oakleaf

The species owes its name to the leaves, reminiscent of a majestic tree. More often this species is grown for its unusual foliage. In open ground it can reach 2 m, but overwinters only under cover.

Hydrangea

This shrub has been cultivated for almost 300 years. Good winter hardiness makes it a garden decoration. The natural shape of the inflorescences is thyroid, but varieties with spherical inflorescences are more often cultivated. Numerous varieties have been developed, but special attention deserves the hydrangea ´Annabelle´. The main advantage of the variety is its bright green leaves, which do not change color even in autumn.

Hydrangea petiolate

This species is considered a shrubby vine. The length of the lashes can reach 25 m, and the suction cups allow you to climb any wall. In the absence of support, it behaves like a ground cover. There are only a few varieties.

Difficulties in growing a plant

Most often, questions arise related to the lack of flowering of hydrangea. However, if you know agricultural technology, difficulties with growing plants, as a rule, do not arise.

The use of organic mulch (peat, sawdust, bark) will help cope with the increased need for moisture. Mulching the soil under hydrangea helps retain moisture, prevent the substrate from drying out and correct the acidity of the soil.

Answers to readers' questions

Plant lifespan

When kept at home, the life expectancy of the plant is not long. Due to the reduction in the size of the inflorescences and the loss of decorativeness, the bush has to be re-rooted. In open ground, life expectancy is 30 years or more, and paniculate hydrangea has 60.

Why doesn't the flower bloom?

Lack of flowering can be caused by the following reasons:

• During the rest period there was no necessary decrease in temperature;
• Overfeeding with organic fertilizers;
• Incorrect trimming.

Why do the tips of hydrangea leaves dry out?

Dry leaf tips indicate insufficient air humidity. But do not forget that in deciduous species the leaves turn yellow for natural reasons.

Flower care in winter

In winter, the temperature of indoor hydrangeas must be reduced to the recommended temperature. garden plants should be provided with good dry air shelter.

Hydrangea, which blooms with luxurious bright inflorescences, can grow both in the garden and indoors. Caring for and growing home varieties, of course, differs from cultivating hydrangea in the garden. Our publication will tell you in detail about the rules for keeping hydrangeas indoors.

Beauty who loves water

The Latin name for hydrangea, hydrangea, literally translates as “water vessel.” This name was not given to this plant in vain: hydrangea loves water very much and does not tolerate drought at all.

Hydrangea is a deciduous plant that sheds its leaves in the winter and goes into retirement.

Main characteristics of hydrangea:

• there are about 80 species and a large number of varieties of hydrangea;
• types of hydrangeas are divided into liana-like, tree-like and shrubby;
• some species are frost-resistant;
• garden hydrangeas grow up to three meters in height, and liana-shaped ones even up to thirty;
• Hydrangeas live for about 20 years.

When grown at home, large-leaved hydrangea is used, which breeders use to create new hybrids and varieties of this spectacular plant.

Indoor hydrangeas can reach a size of up to 1.5 meters. New varieties for indoor cultivation usually have a height of 50 to 100 cm.

• Hydrangea leaves are jagged, ovoid with a sharp tip, 10–15 cm in length. They turn red in autumn and fall off by winter;
• inflorescences up to 35 cm in diameter, consisting of large sepals, which can be plain, of different colors or change as they develop and depending on the acidity of the soil;
• inside the sepals there are small petals;
• flowers can be sterile or fertile. The seeds are very small;
• the shape of flowers can be of four types: spherical, umbellate, pineal and racemose;
• sepals different types and varieties have a variety of shapes, can be terry;
• Hydrangea blooms from early summer to late autumn;
• The number of inflorescences on a hydrangea increases as the plant ages.

When grown at home, hydrangea is quite whimsical, but if you follow the rules of care, it will definitely delight you with its flowering.

The color range of hydrangeas is diverse, and the color of the flowers depends on the acidity of the soil. Because of this property, hydrangea is called a plant chameleon. There are varieties that do not change their color depending on the chemical composition of the soil.

Flower buds of ordinary large-leaved hydrangea are formed at the tips of last year's shoots, so pruning is done only on shrunken, excess shoots, without touching the tops with flower buds.

Now new varieties have been developed in which buds with future flowers are formed on the shoots of both last and this year. These are called remontants.

Hydrangea is a shade-tolerant plant. Moreover, its flowers do not tolerate bright sunlight.

IN natural conditions hydrangea grows in Asia, America, China and Japan. Several species are native to Russia's Far East.

Hydrangea does not tolerate intense heat, so it is planted in the garden only in shady places. It requires high air humidity.

Hydrangea leaves can be used in tea. The roots, branches and inflorescences of paniculata and tree hydrangea are used in medicinal purposes and make various medicinal preparations from them.

Varieties of large-leaved hydrangea by flower color

There are a huge number of varieties of large-leaved hydrangea. Let's look at a few of the most popular ones, dividing them into color categories.

Light

Sister Therese (Soeur Therese):

• inflorescence diameter 30 cm;
• white inflorescences with a delicate lilac-pink tint change color to greenish-pink towards the end of flowering;
• blooms until September on last year's shoots;
• dense, spreading shrub.

Madame Emile Mouillere:

• inflorescence diameter 20 cm;
• flowers, pure white at the beginning of flowering, then acquire light pink or light blue shades;
• blooms profusely on shoots of last and this year until October;
• leaves are narrower than other varieties.

Blue

Early Blue:

• inflorescence diameter 30 cm;
• blue inflorescences with blue-violet hues initially have a greenish color;
• blooms profusely until October on shoots of the previous and current year;
• has a strong root system and compact bush.

Nikko Blue:

• inflorescence diameter 30 cm;
• the inflorescences are bright blue; to maintain the color, an acidic soil reaction of 5.5–7.0 pH is required;
• abundant flowering until September - October on the shoots of the current and last year;
• fast-growing medium-sized shrub.

Pink

Ramars Mars or Mars:

• inflorescence diameter 30 cm;
• pink-crimson inflorescences with a white edge, which turns green over time;
• compact bush.

Miss Saori:

• inflorescence diameter 18 cm;
• inflorescences are matte white with a pink border, retain their original color regardless of the acidity of the soil;
• blooms until September on shoots of the current and previous year;
• dark green foliage has a purple tint.

You and my love (You&me Love):

• stem height 100 cm;
• blooms continuously from May to September;
• in alkaline soil it is colored pink. in acidic, with a high content of aluminum - in blue;
• leaves are resistant to powdery mildew;
• frost resistance -29 o C.

Reds

Admiration:

• inflorescence diameter 20 cm;
• flowers are bright red;
• abundant flowering until October on last year's shoots;
• the bush has a dense crown.

Multicolor

Bavaria:

• inflorescence diameter 20 cm;
• lime-colored flowers with a violet-blue center and a white border;
• abundant flowering until October on last year's shoots;
• compact bush.

Hot Red:

• inflorescence diameter 15 cm;
• red flowers with high acidity of the soil have a purple tint;
• blooms until October on last year's shoots;
• The bush is lush and does not become prone to massive inflorescences.

Schloss Wackerbarth:

• inflorescence diameter 30 cm;
• pink inflorescences with a blue center and green edging, green at the beginning of flowering;
• flowering on last year's shoots until October-early November;
• flowers are decorated with light stamens.

Huge inflorescences, colorful petals, graceful stamens - all this is the Schloss Wackerbart variety

Beginning gardeners often look for the “hydrangea mix” variety. You should know that there is no such variety; this phrase refers to multi-colored hydrangeas in a composition or in a store’s assortment.

Potted hydrangeas grown at home in the photo

The hydrangea plant got its name in honor of a princess of the Roman Empire named Hortensia.
Archaeological excavations in the northern regions of America have shown that hydrangea grew 40 thousand years ago. Large-leaved hydrangea can be successfully grown both in the garden and on a home windowsill. At home, hydrangea does not have to be kept on the window; it is a shade-tolerant plant. In the West, hydrangea is called French, since they learned about this plant after the first French round the world expedition There are about 80 species and a huge number of varieties and hybrids of hydrangea. The owner of this hydrangea is clearly an original

Caring for hydrangea at home

If the color of the sun is too bright, hydrangea inflorescences fade and become stained. Therefore, it should be placed on east or west windows. Hydrangea will grow well away from a window, especially from the south. For flowering, diffused light is sufficient for hydrangea.

To prevent the stems from breaking, inflorescences that are too heavy sometimes need to be supported using branch supports.

Hydrangea feels best outdoors. Therefore, at positive temperatures, it is advisable to keep it on the balcony, veranda or take it out into the garden. If this is not possible, then ventilate the room regularly, and if high temperatures Place on north windows.

Try to take hydrangeas out into the fresh air more often

Hydrangea does not like sudden changes in temperature, as well as drafts.

Hydrangea needs moist air:

• it is necessary to spray hydrangea in the morning, especially in dry, hot weather;
• in hot weather, be sure to place vessels with water nearby;
• A good option for moisturizing: place the flower in a container filled with water on a two-centimeter layer of expanded clay or coarse perlite.

Hydrangea does not tolerate drought, so the most important condition when growing it is to monitor soil moisture. It should always be slightly damp.

When watering, use soft water, as excess lime has a negative effect on the plant. To do this, you can boil the tap water, wait until sediment accumulates at the bottom, and drain clean water.

From spring to autumn, it is necessary to water the hydrangea abundantly and not remove the water from the pan. To retain moisture, mulch must be laid on top of the soil. It is best to use pine litter or crushed pine bark for this.

What materials are used as mulch:

• pine litter;
• crushed pine bark;
• pine sawdust;
• high peat;
• sphagnum moss.

In autumn, at the beginning of leaf fall, watering is reduced.

In winter, watering is needed only so as not to dry out the earthen ball and the roots of the plant. When the first new leaves appear, watering begins to increase.

Hydrangea also does not tolerate stagnant water; it requires good drainage.

Once or twice a month during watering it is necessary to acidify the soil. You can use lemon juice for this. citric acid.

• juice consumption: five drops per liter of water;
• citric acid consumption: powder on the tip of a knife per liter of water.

Hydrangea should be fed from the beginning of spring to the end of summer 2 times a month with fertilizer for hydrangeas or for flowering plants. Fertilizers for hydrangeas contain mainly magnesium and iron.

For better and faster growth of the green mass of the plant, you can feed it with nitrogen fertilizers during the growth period - before flowering.

Granular nitrogen fertilizers are dissolved in warm water and watered the plant once a week.

The norm of nitrogen in the form of carbamide (urea): half a teaspoon per 1 liter of water.

It is convenient to use ammonia (ammonia) for spraying; this will also be an additional prevention of pests. You can also water the plant with it. It is enough to spray once a week. Ammonia use rate: half a teaspoon per 1 liter of water.

What indicators of soil acidity and alkalinity change the color of hydrangea

If you want to maintain or change the color of your hydrangea, there are special fertilizers for this.

Other methods can be used: adding aluminum sulfate or light liming with dolomite flour or ash. These drugs are used, making sure to control the acidity of the soil.

If the pH is 7.0, the soil is neutral; if it is lower, the soil is acidic; if it is higher, the soil is alkaline.

• acidic soil (Ph 3–6) with a high aluminum content supports blue, blue and violet shades of inflorescences;
• neutral or slightly acidic soil (pH 6–7) supports light, white colors;
• more alkaline soil (pH 7–8) with lower aluminum content produces pink and red colors.

The optimal acidity for hydrangeas is between 5.5–6.0 pH. Hydrangea does not tolerate highly alkaline (calcareous) soils! With a highly alkaline soil reaction, hydrangea cannot absorb iron; it develops chlorosis of the leaves, which turn yellow and fall off.

To determine acidity, you need to buy a special device.

Soil alkalinity indicators:

• slightly alkaline: pH 7–8;
• medium alkaline: pH 8–8.5;
• highly alkaline: pH - 8.5 and above.

Do not allow alkalinity to rise above 8 pH.

Acidity is maintained by pine litter, pine bark, high peat, watering with potassium permanganate and citric acid (or lemon juice).

Alkalinity is maintained by the presence of lime (chalk, dolomite flour) and ash in the soil.

Acidity should be measured a few days after application. If it does not reach the required value, the application should be repeated.

Red inflorescences can be “repainted” in lilac and purple shades, or change from pink to blue. Moreover, if you water only one side of the bush with the solution, you will get a very beautiful transition of colors.

When using such products, make sure that they do not come into contact with leaves and flowers, and do not exceed the dosage!

Dosages of drugs that change chemical composition soil:

• To change the color pink to blue, red to violet-lilac, you need to increase the concentration of aluminum in the soil: 1 tablespoon of aluminum sulfate per 1 liter of water.
• We change the blue color to pink, stopping fertilizing with aluminum and increasing the alkaline reaction of the soil: dig 1 teaspoon of dolomite flour evenly into the soil and monitor the alkalinity, which should be within 7–8 pH. If the pH is less than 7, add ash to the soil (1-2 tablespoons). When watering, add potassium permanganate to the water 1–2 times a month: 5–7 grains per liter of water.

Don't expect immediate changes. The color may begin to change only from the second season. If the color of the hydrangea still does not change, you will have to replace the soil.

Pruning: do's and don'ts

If the variety grows slowly, pruning should be done infrequently. Accordingly, if the hydrangea grows quickly, then it will have to be pruned more often.

Do not forget that hydrangea inflorescences are located at the tops of the shoots, so they cannot be cut off. You can trim shoots for better branching either from only planted cuttings (in the second year after planting) or from remontant hydrangeas.

If your hydrangea produces an abundance of shoots, then you can cut off the extra ones, even with flowers; they stand in water for a long time. Perhaps they will take root and give birth to new plants.

Faded inflorescences are cut off as they dry above the topmost bud.

Principles of pruning hydrangea:

• if the plant is less than 4 years old, only dry shoots need to be trimmed;
• On hydrangeas, old, thickened and small shoots are pruned;
• shoots for thinning are pruned in the spring, but diseased and dry shoots can be pruned in the fall;
• Do not water the plant for a couple of days before pruning.

How to prune hydrangea:

1. Select dry, excess or too small shoots and trim them with sharp, sterile scissors or pruners.
2. Treat the sections with turmeric, brilliant green or activated carbon powder.
3. You can water the hydrangea a day after pruning, when the cuts have dried out a little.

The plant should have no more than eight main trunks. 4–5 branches are left on each trunk.

Rest period

At the beginning of leaf fall, to prevent the roots from rotting, reduce watering of the hydrangea. The plant no longer consumes as much water as during growth and flowering, so it is important to monitor the condition of the soil. It should be about the same as wet store-bought soil when you first open the package.

After dropping the hydrangea leaves, it is necessary to ensure a temperature of less than 10 o C.

Hydrangea overwinters best at a temperature of +5–8 o C. That's why best option- take the pot with the plant to a dry basement. We must remember to water the soil little by little at this time to prevent the death of the root system.

If you do not have a basement, you should place the hydrangea in the coolest place in your house or apartment. She doesn't need light at this time.

At the very beginning of spring, hydrangea needs to be brought into the house, first placing it in the coolest but brightest place. When it grows leaves, you can move the plant to a warmer place.

Table: how to care for hydrangea

Season	Lighting	Watering	Temperature	Humidity	Feeding	Acidity
Spring Summer	Scattered light	Abundant, soil should always be moist	+17–22 °С	50–60%, spraying in the morning with warm soft water	2 times a month with fertilizer for hydrangeas, azaleas, or flowering plants	Acidify the water when watering 1-2 times a month: 5 drops of lemon juice or citric acid on the tip of a knife per 1 liter of water
Autumn. Dropping leaves	Scattered light	Moderate, declines in winter	+9–12 °С	Not less than 50%	Don't fertilize	Acidify water 1-2 times a month
Winter. Quiet time	Can be kept without light	Very moderate, just so as not to dry out the soil and roots	+5–8 °С	Low	Don't fertilize	Watering with water without acid

Diseases and treatment

Hydrangeas rarely get sick. But if not proper care and weakened immunity, the plant can be affected by fungal or bacterial diseases and be attacked by pests.

The main problems when growing hydrangea:

• if hydrangea is kept in too humid and shaded conditions, powdery mildew (a fungal disease) may form on the plant;
• in very dry and hot weather (more than +27 o C), hydrangea can be affected by spider mites;
• in extreme heat (more than +30 o C), hydrangea can shed its leaves; if the sun is too strong, the leaves begin to turn yellow; the flowers dry out and wither;
• on alkaline soils (excess lime, pH value more than 8), hydrangea develops chlorosis - yellowing of leaves;
• if there is insufficient air and soil humidity, hydrangea stops blooming, the leaves dry out, and the roots may dry out;
• With poor drainage and excessive watering, the roots begin to rot, and as a result, fungal diseases form.

Table: hydrangea problems and their solutions

Problem	Cause	Solution
Flowers and shoots wither	Roots are flooded or there are gnawing pests in the soil	If there is no drainage, an urgent replanting of the plant with replacement of the soil is necessary: Check the roots and trim off rotten ones if necessary. Treat with Fitosporin or other fungicide. Dry the roots without watering for several days. Then water according to the usual pattern. If the hydrangea has not been watered, check the soil for the presence of pests (they are clearly visible in the soil after watering). Treat the soil with Grom-2.
The leaves turn yellow and fall off. The leaf itself is yellow, the veins are green, then it dries	Chlorosis - from excess lime in the soil, too bright light and lack of iron in the soil.	Move the plant to diffused light, you can even remove it from the windowsill. Measure the acidity of the soil; if it is above 8 Ph, it needs to be replaced. Do not water hydrangea with hard water with too much lime. Feed the plant with iron chelate: dissolve 4 grams of iron sulfate in a liter of filtered (or distilled) warm water, add 2.5 grams of citric acid
The leaves are drying at the edges	Lack of moisture	Ensure timely watering, spray the plant in the morning with warm boiled water without sediment
Spots appear on the leaves. A whitish coating on the leaves, then holes form in place of the spots and plaque	Fungal or bacterial disease. Whitish coating - powdery mildew	Treat with a fungicide (for example, Chisloflor + Fitolavin) in three doses every week. Check if they match necessary standards maintenance conditions: temperature, humidity, watering, lighting. Feed with complex fertilizer
Hydrangea doesn't bloom	The plant did not have a period of winter dormancy. Temperature too high	Place the hydrangea in the coolest, least sunny location. Spray with the addition of an immunostimulant (Epin, Zircon) and feed with fertilizer with phosphorus: 2g Superphosphate per 1 liter of water. 7-8 drops of Epin are enough for 1 liter
	Too spacious container for roots	Repot in a smaller pot that matches the size of the root system.
The trunk began to turn black at the bottom	Black leg - rot from stagnation of water + low temperatures	Take healthy cuttings and root to preserve the variety. Check the root system and soil. If there are healthy roots, then the plant can be saved. Remove anything blackened and rotten and replace the soil. Treat the plant, especially the roots, with Fitosporin (paste) and an immunostimulant. For 1 liter of water, paste on the tip of a teaspoon and 7-8 drops of stimulant. Spray the leaves and shoots with nitrogen fertilizer + Fitosporin + green soap: half a teaspoon of ammonia + paste on the tip of a teaspoon + a teaspoon of green soap per 1 liter of water. Additionally, treat with Metronidazole (Trichopol), alternating products: 1 tablet per liter of water. Carry out treatments 2 times a week
Shoots dry out and break	The root system is overdried	To wet the earthen lump, pour the earth in several stages. Trim off dried shoots. Do not allow the soil to dry out and spray the plant. Do not drain the water from the pan; pour gravel, expanded clay or coarse perlite into it and add water when it dries.
There are growths on the leaves, white “fluff”, cobwebs	Presence of pests: growths - scale insects; white “fluff” - mealybug; cobwebs - mite	Treat with a comprehensive pest control product. Scale insects and scale insects must first be cleaned off, then the plant must be sprayed with the preparation
Leaves have holes, flower buds wither and fall off, leaves and shoots wither	Pests: weevil, aphid	Treat with a pest control product. For example, Fitoverm, Bitoxibacillin
There are visible passages from microworms on the leaves.	The soil is infected with nematodes	Treat the soil and leaves with Nematophagin. It is advisable to replace the soil (after replanting, treat it two or three times for prevention)
The leaves have circular or multi-colored spots. Leaves wither and become deformed	Viral disease	Insects are carriers of viruses. Check the flower for their presence, remove the affected parts of the plant. Treat the soil and plant for two months 2 times a week with the following composition: Phytolavin on the tip of a teaspoon + 8 drops of Epin + one dose of ExtraFlorN1 + Boric acid on the tip of a knife per 1 liter of water. First, dilute boric acid - it is diluted only in water with a temperature of more than 40 o C. This complex is antiviral, pest repellent, fungicidal and immunostimulating. The plant must be kept in quarantine separately from others; if there are no signs of cure, it will have to be destroyed, the soil thrown away, and the pot treated with boiling water.

To prevent fungal and bacterial diseases, add a bio-product based on beneficial bacteria: Gamair, Rizoplan (Planriz), Alirin-B.

Video: diseases and pests of hydrangea

Planting (transplanting) hydrangea: choosing soil, pot and instructions

It is not possible to grow a luxurious plant in every soil. The soil for hydrangeas should be loose, acidic and nutritious. You can prepare the soil yourself: turf soil 2 parts, pine litter 1 part, peat 1 part, crushed pine bark 0.5 parts, sand 0.5 parts.

From ready-made purchased soils, you can use soils for hydrangeas, azaleas, rhododendrons, and conifers.

Hydrangea loves water very much, but in a swamp it will also feel bad, the roots will begin to rot and fungal diseases will appear. Therefore, when planting, it is necessary to provide it with good drainage.

Drainage includes holes in the bottom of the pot and a 1-2 cm layer of expanded clay, pebbles or coarse perlite.

The pot needs to be changed as the root system grows. Do not plant the plant in a pot that is too spacious. When the roots completely fill the space, then transplant the plant into a slightly larger pot. The roots of hydrangea grow shallow but dense.

On average, hydrangeas need to be replanted every 3-4 years in early spring.

For planting, prepare:

• new pot;
• land;
• drainage;
• mulch: pine litter, crushed pine bark, pine sawdust or peat (sphagnum can also be used);
• boiled water with the addition of potassium permanganate until slightly pink (for irrigation);
• spray bottle with warm clean water (for spraying leaves).

Landing rules:

• When planting, roots that are too long can be trimmed with sterile scissors;
• The root collar can be deepened by 2–3 cm;
• When replanting, the soil is not dried out; part of the soil remains on the roots;
• After planting, the soil must be compacted so that there are no voids between the roots (this can lead to their drying out);
• When planting, the roots should be straightened down and not bent;
• After replanting, some leaves of the hydrangea may fall off - this is normal.

Planting stages

1. We take the plant out of the pot, carefully separating the earthen lump from the walls with a knife.

We shake off excess soil from the roots and inspect them, if necessary, cut off excess, dry and diseased ones.

2. Pour drainage and a little soil into the bottom of the pot, place the hydrangea in the center and cover the roots with soil 2-3 cm above the root collar.
3. We compact the earth, add more soil if necessary and water it well. Spray the leaves with warm water.
4. Place a 1–1.5 cm layer of mulch on top.

A few days after planting, the hydrangea needs to be fed with complex fertilizer.

Video: planting and growing potted hydrangea

Reproduction of indoor hydrangea

Hydrangea is propagated at home by cuttings, dividing the bush or seeds. The simplest and most effective way is cuttings. Hydrangea propagated in this way blooms in the second year after planting. Rooting of cuttings occurs easily both in soil and in water.

Cuttings can be done from late May to September.

Cuttings in the ground

For cuttings you need to prepare:

• sterile pruning shears;
• drug Kornevin;
• substrate for planting (clean sand or infertile soil);
• small low pot;
• shelter (cellophane, cut plastic bottle, etc.);
• spray bottle with warm water;
• turmeric or charcoal powder for processing cuts.

For cuttings, it is better to choose green, non-lignified shoots.

Step-by-step cutting process:

1. Cut off the selected green cutting.
2. We make a cut under the lower bud.
3. We also cut off part of the branch above the upper bud.
4. Cut off excess lower leaves.
5. Trim the remaining leaves by about half to reduce water evaporation
6. We dip the lower cut in Kornevin and place the lower part of the cutting at a slight angle into a dry substrate of 1.5–2 cm. If you are planting several cuttings, the leaves should not touch the soil or each other.
7. We wet the substrate generously from a spray bottle with warm water.
8. We dust the cuts with turmeric or charcoal, cover the cuttings and place them in a shady, cool place for a month.

• it is necessary to check the condition of the substrate 1-2 times a week and spray it so that it does not dry out;
• the optimal temperature for rooting is +18–25 o C;
• a month and a half after rooting, the cuttings are planted in a more nutritious mixture (one per pot). Can be planted in regular hydrangea soil;
• by winter, the cuttings are prepared for dormancy, like ordinary hydrangeas;
• in the spring, fertilize or spray the cuttings with nitrogen fertilizer to better growth until June 1 time per week;
• in May next year after planting, the cuttings can be cut by 2/3 for better branching.

Video: how to propagate hydrangea from cuttings

Option with rooting in water

We perform the same actions as for rooting in the substrate, but we do not dip the lower cut of the cutting into Kornevin, but add this preparation to the water at the tip of a knife. You can add the drug Methylene blue (sold in the aquarium departments of pet stores). It conditions and disinfects water, protecting against fungal infections. It is enough to tint the water a little to a blue tint.

Hydrangea cuttings do not emit substances that greatly spoil the water, so it does not need to be changed. but only add as it evaporates.

We place the cuttings in water until roots form and plant them in the ground after the roots have grown a little.

Roots usually grow within a month.

Dividing the bush

It is better to divide the bush in the spring, although this operation can be performed in the fall (before or after flowering).

To divide a bush:

• take the hydrangea out of the pot;
• shake off excess soil;
• Check the roots and cut off the dried ones if necessary.
• we look for a suitable place for division and cut the bush with a sterile sharp knife;
• We plant the cuttings according to the usual pattern.

Propagation by seeds

Plants obtained from seeds bloom in the third year.

• Hydrangea seeds are sown in February in a mixture of: 4 parts leaf soil, 2 parts peat, 1 part sand, 1 part humus;
• You can also sow in one of the purchased soils for hydrangeas (as well as conifers, azaleas, rhododendrons);
• Hydrangea seeds do not need pre-planting treatment, but for better germination, you can add Epin to the water you use from a spray bottle to moisten the soil: 7-8 drops per half liter of water.

Step-by-step instructions for sowing hydrangea seeds

1. We sow the seeds superficially and evenly on a moist substrate.
2. Sprinkle quite a bit (!) of sand on top. Wet it from a spray bottle and cover it with glass or other transparent lid.
3. Place in a warm, bright place (+18–28 o C). But not in direct sunlight!
4. We monitor the humidity and regularly spray the substrate.
5. We ventilate every day for about five minutes, wipe the glass from condensation.
6. When shoots appear, remove the glass.

The seeds germinate within a month.

The seedlings are planted in the same substrate when the first pair of leaves appears on them.

When the young plants have five leaves, they need to be replanted.

Small sprouts need to be fed with nitrogen and potassium fertilizer (watered or sprayed) 2 times a month.

Fertilizer composition: dilute half a teaspoon of carbamide (urea) in warm water, add a few granules of potassium permanganate (potassium fertilizer) until a slightly pink color is obtained.

Despite the fact that caring for hydrangea is quite difficult, it is completely worth it when luxurious buds appear. No other flower can compare with hydrangea in either the size or brightness of the inflorescences.

Indoor hydrangea is somewhat similar to geranium. With proper care, it blooms long and profusely. The decorative crop takes root in light, fertile soil; it is highly undesirable for it to be alkaline.

If you are a beginner gardener, be sure to read my article. She will help you grow a gorgeous hydrangea! I present to your attention a photo of a flower.

The Hydrangea flower belongs to the Hydrangeaceae family, which has more than 70 varieties: among them compact trees and spreading shrubs. Wild hydrangea is found in America, Africa, Europe, and South Asian countries.

The indoor view is especially popular. It is a perennial subshrub with large opposite leaves (size of 1 piece is from 9 to 14 cm).

The leaves of indoor hydrangea are shaped like an egg. The inflorescences are presented in the form of balls, the maximum diameter of which can be 30 cm.

They are very similar to umbrellas and include two types of flowers: sterile ones are located at the edges, fruitful ones are located in the middle. The shade of the Hydrangea plant depends on the soil in which it is planted.

If the crop grows in acidic soil, it will form bluish flowers, if in neutral soil it will produce white or beige flowers. Some gardeners grow home hydrangea in alkaline soil, in which case it produces lilac flowers. The fruit of the ornamental crop is presented in the form of a box with a large number of seeds.

Home care

Indoor hydrangea does not exceed a height of 110 cm. It is easy to care for, you need to:

• add water in a timely manner;
• loosen the soil;
• remove weakened leaves.

If you keep the plant in suitable conditions, it will delight you with long flowering! The perennial culture takes root in a spacious, bright room. I advise you to protect it from the scorching rays of the sun. Hydrangea prefers diffused light, preferably through a curtain.

In summer you need to keep the flower at a distance of one and a half meters from the window. Hydrangea fully develops at temperatures from + 19 to + 22 degrees. It does not tolerate drafts and temperature changes.

Winter is a period of rest!

At this time, you should keep the flower in a cool room. You can place it on an unheated loggia. In the cold season, the temperature should be within + 8 degrees. At the beginning of February, the plant will begin to form buds; it will need to be returned to its usual place.

The rest period is very important for hydrangea. In winter, it rests and recovers after flowering. If you do not provide the plant with rest during the cold season, it will bloom in 12 months. As I already said, you need to water the hydrangea on time. In summer, water should be added frequently, and in spring and autumn - sparingly. In winter, you should water the flower once every 13-15 days.

I advise you to add high-quality (settled or filtered) water. As for the temperature, it should be within + 28 degrees. The plant takes root in conditions of high humidity, so it is worth spraying it. In the autumn-winter period, I do not recommend placing the crop near heating appliances.

Fertilizer application

It is necessary to feed the plant during the period of active growth. Mineral preparations must be applied once every 15 days. I recommend using complex formulations designed for flowering ornamental crops (for example, azaleas). The first feeding is carried out in early February. At this time, the hydrangea forms new branches.

There is no need to apply fertilizer in winter. If you want to get a lush shrub, apply ammonia-potassium preparations in accordance with the instructions. One hydrangea requires 2 liters of solution.

Instead of such products, you can use iron salt. When applying such fertilizers, the ornamental crop will produce blue flowers. If you add a small amount of lime to the other side of the bush, it will form pink flowers.

Correction and transplantation

Novice gardeners are wondering whether indoor hydrangeas need to be pruned. Adjustment in in this case necessary. I advise you to prune the plant twice a year. In October, when flowering is completed, you will need to remove the weakened branches, cutting them off almost to the root.

If you make adjustments, the plant will spend energy on forming branches. Hydrangea is also adjusted in the spring. I advise you to remove weakened branches and those that are too elongated. The lifespan of indoor hydrangea is 3 - 4 years. The soil for this crop should be:

• light;
• fertile;
• well drained.

The best option is to mix leaf and turf soil in equal proportions, adding a small amount of sand.

The flower takes root in a spacious pot; it should be remembered that its roots are horizontal. The plant is transplanted by transferring it from one container to another, having previously laid drainage.

When planting and replanting, you need to ensure that the root collar is located at ground level. After planting the plant in a new place, do not forget to moisten the substrate.

I advise you to mulch the hydrangea with peat. The fact is that a layer of mulch prevents the evaporation of moisture, thus the plant feeds longer.

Hydrangea cuttings

The decorative crop is propagated by cuttings. Planting material is harvested at the beginning of winter. The cuttings gradually take root, and in early September they turn into a miniature bush.

Cuttings must be timely. If you plant the sprigs in mid-March or early April, you will have single-stemmed plants by fall. I used cuttings taken from root branches.

Each planting material measuring 8 cm should have 2 - 3 internodes. Before planting, it is necessary to remove the lower leaves, and shorten those at the top by a third. In order for the cutting to take root more quickly, it must be treated with a stimulant and planted in a peat-sand mixture. I advise you to keep the planting material at a temperature of + 19 degrees.

Cuttings develop well if air humidity fluctuates within 80%. I advise you to cover them with glass containers to create a greenhouse effect. Every day you need to remove these containers, this way the seedlings will be ventilated.

It is good if the substrate for cuttings is constantly moist. Planting material takes root within 20 - 25 days. It is planted in separate pots with a diameter of 8 cm.

Generative reproduction

As I already said, the soil for a flower should be loose and fertile. Seeds quickly germinate in soil made from leaf, turf soil and humus taken in equal proportions (to improve the composition of the soil mixture, add a small amount of sand and peat).

Seeds should be sown on the surface of the substrate without covering them. The common container with crops must be covered with glass.

It is better to add water from a sprayer; there should be no condensation! Remove the glass periodically. After you see shoots, remove it for good.

After some time, the seedlings form two strong leaves; perform a pick: transplant them into larger containers filled with the same soil mixture. Strong seedlings feel good in pots with a diameter of 8 - 9 cm.

Dividing the bush

Experienced gardeners propagate the flower by dividing the bush. When carrying out such a procedure, you must be very careful. In spring or autumn, when you replant the plants, carefully divide the bushes. The division must have a growing point and roots. Before planting it in the ground, it is necessary to shorten the shoots, water the soil, and mulch it with peat.

Diseases, pests, problems when growing flowers

The disease “Grey rot” progresses in conditions of high humidity. If the hydrangea is damaged, it must be treated with one percent Bordeaux mixture. Downy mildew can also overtake this plant. For treatment, preparations with copper or fungicides are used.

Moisture deficiency is the reason why hydrangea is attacked by aphids and spider mites. To cure the plant, you need to spray it with a soap solution (2 treatments are required with an interval of 14 days).

Instead of the proposed remedy, you can use Actellik.

If your hydrangea turns yellow, it means you haven't watered it enough. Correct the mistake! I do not recommend planting the plant in poor soil. The soil mixture must contain the required amount of nitrogen.

It is unacceptable to plant hydrangea in alkaline soil, as chlorosis may occur. If the flower dries out, spray it more often. When replanting, try not to damage the fragile roots!

So, we found out that hydrangea has certain requirements for soil and moisture levels. The flower requires constant attention. I repeat that in winter you need to provide him with peace: during this time, add water once every 15 days!