How to make (build) a barn at your dacha with your own hands. Do-it-yourself barn - diagrams, drawings, projects and options for how to build simply, quickly and efficiently (155 photo ideas) What to build a barn from

Before you build a shed with your own hands, let's figure out why it is needed and whether it is needed at all. A barn is an outbuilding that is designed to store various things, such as construction tools, materials, small equipment, etc. At first, when a house is built, it can be used as temporary housing during the warm season. In any case, you should have at least a simple structure on your site.

What is the best way to build a shed quickly and cheaply? The simplest and fastest solution would be to erect a frame building. At the same time, you can fit into a budget of just a few hundred dollars, it all depends on the size and materials.

I decided to build a barn with my own hands as soon as I acquired a plot for building a house. This is the first building on my site. I started construction in late autumn, so the work took place in two stages.

In principle, it is not necessary to make a barn project. By and large, this structure is built from the materials that are available, and if something is missing, then simply buy more and that’s it. But if you, like me, are building a shed from scratch and don’t have any materials, then it’s better to make not even a project, but a schematic drawing. This will help you calculate the required amount of materials and purchase them at one time, while saving your time and money on transportation costs.

Since I already have some experience in designing, I made myself a simple shed project. Even having a project, during the construction process I made some design changes for one reason or another. This suggests that, even with drawings, it is impossible to foresee everything.

According to the project, I will have a barn measuring 4.5x3 m with a pitched roof. The height of the room in the lower part is 2.2 m, in the upper part it is 2.7 m. Now I would build the barn lower, for example 1.8 m at the bottom and 2.3 m at the top.

Construction of the foundation

Since the barn was planned to be made using frame technology, the foundation could be made columnar with blocks. For these purposes, I used a hollow concrete block (I just couldn’t find a solid one), the voids of which were sealed with mortar.

The first thing you need to do is decide on a location and only then start marking out the building site. To mark, I needed wooden pegs and twine (you can use fishing line or rope). I drove the pegs further than the building spot at a distance of about a meter so that they would not interfere with me when installing the blocks.

Having pulled the twine, I checked the diagonals; they should be equal. I marked out the places where the blocks would be installed and began digging holes 30–50 cm deep. It was necessary to remove the plant layer of soil under the blocks and fill them with crushed stone or sand, which is what I did. Thus, the stability of the foundation was maximized.

All blocks must be installed in one strictly horizontal plane. I did this using a level and adjusted the height with the amount of crushed stone. The crushed stone was poured in layers, each layer compacted.

At this point, my first stage of construction was completed and the foundation was left to winter.

Bottom harness and frame

After waiting for warmer days to arrive, I continued building the barn. For this I ordered a 3.5 m3 board. For the frame I took a board 100x50 mm (1.5 m3), for cladding 150x25 mm (2m3).

I made the bottom frame from a 100x50 mm board, laying it on edge along the foundation posts.

I fastened the boards together using universal 100x6 mm screws (although I tried drywall screws, but they were too fragile and often broke). You can also use nails.

Having laid the boards around the perimeter and fastened them, I immediately checked the diagonals. This must be done periodically so as not to build a crooked building.

The beams of the lower trim must be opened with an antiseptic. It is better to use an antiseptic for difficult working conditions. I used NEOMID concentrate. I opened the beams with a regular paint brush, but you can use a spray bottle, it will be faster.

I laid floor boards (150x25 mm) on top of the beams and treated them with an antiseptic. I laid the boards tightly, but since they were freshly sawn, over time, gaps of about 1 cm formed between them. For me, this is not critical, although mice can crawl into the barn through the gaps. You can additionally put sheets of plywood on the floor, which will be more practical and aesthetically pleasing.

Now the base for the walls is ready.

The frame of the walls was first assembled on the floor, then raised, leveled and secured to the foundation beams. Regarding the assembly, you can easily do this work yourself, but lifting and securing the wall yourself will be difficult, because the structure is quite heavy (due to damp wood) and keeps trying to fall. For these purposes you need an assistant.

To speed up the process of building a shed with my own hands, I used a chainsaw to cut the boards and a screwdriver to tighten the screws. You can use a jigsaw if there is already electricity in the area.

During any construction, I recommend using as many different electrical, mechanical and gasoline tools and mechanisms as possible to speed up and facilitate the work. Only then will the whole process be enjoyable.

When assembling the wall frame, I made one mistake - I did not install the braces (inclined boards in the corners of the barn). Then it was quite difficult to install them. Braces give spatial rigidity to the entire structure and are vital, so don’t forget to install them.

I took the distance between the frame posts to be 70-80 cm, since I don’t plan to insulate it in the future. If the barn will be insulated, then the pitch of the racks should correspond to the width of the insulation, which is 490 or 590 mm.

Door and window openings must be provided in advance in the frame and horizontal lintels must be installed.

After the wall frame is assembled, the roof rafters can be installed. These are the same 100x50 mm boards with a pitch of about 700 mm. I secured the rafters with metal corners on one side and nails on the other. Let me remind you that if you plan to insulate, then the step must be taken in accordance with the width of the insulation.

Wall decoration

I finished the walls with a 150x25 mm board, which I attached with nails (60-70 mm) to the frame posts. In this case, you need to try not to sew up the openings of windows and doors. Here everything is very simple: attach the board - nail it and so on in a circle.

After some time, the board will dry out and cracks will form. I covered them with window beads, as a result of which the barn acquired a nice appearance.

To protect the board from environmental influences and various kinds of insects, I opened the shed from the outside to drain the oil. A fairly cheap, but not fire-safe way to protect wood. Spent 10 liters of waste.

Roof and roof installation

Regarding the roof, I thought through many options, but ultimately decided to make it from roofing felt. And this is another miscalculation of mine, but more on that later.

I made a continuous sheathing along the rafters from 150x25 mm boards.

It was also opened with an antiseptic, but only from the outside.

To install the roof, I bought two rolls of RPP-350 roofing felt. I cut it into pieces of 4 meters and laid it along the roof slope with an overlap of 20 cm. I secured the joints with a 40x20 mm strip.

I expected that this roof would serve me for several seasons, but I was mistaken; after two weeks the roofing material simply tore in several places. The roof had to be redone.

The reason for this turned out to be poor quality roofing material. In the future, I do not recommend making roofing material from paper-based roofing material. It is better to use euroroofing felt with a thickness of 3-4 mm, which will last for many years.

This time I made an even simpler option - a roof made of greenhouse film with ultraviolet protection. And so, over the continuous sheathing, I laid a reinforced polyethylene backing (I bought it when I was planning to make a roof from ondulin).

On top, in a continuous piece, I put a greenhouse film with a density of 150 microns. It was secured, like roofing felt, with a 40x20 mm lath. For six months there have been no problems with this roof, I’ll see how it goes.

Installation of windows and doors

I installed a used wooden door. I was changing the front door in the apartment, so it went into the barn. I made the door frame locally from boards, bought hinges and installed the door.

I made two locks - one mortise and the other padlock for extra security.

Initially I planned to install a large wooden window in the barn 1200x600 mm, but at a construction supermarket I bought an inexpensive metal-plastic window measuring 800x600 mm, and of course installed it. To do this I had to reduce the window opening a little.

The window was secured with universal self-tapping screws 100x6 mm. First I removed the glass unit and drilled 2 holes on the side of the frame. I installed the window frame in the opening and secured it level with self-tapping screws. I put back the double glazing.

From the outside, the opening was decorated with platband and a galvanized flashing was installed. I made a wooden window sill inside and filled the cracks with sealant.

Price and terms

I was able to build a shed with my own hands for about $1000, and it took about a month (2-3 hours a day).

The most expensive and basic material turned out to be boards. I also had to buy some tools.

The barn is the first and most necessary thing to begin with in the development of a plot of land. At first it will be a shelter from the weather, a workshop and a sleeping quarters. And then he will take on his main responsibilities of storing gardening tools, crops and household supplies. Perhaps it will also accept domestic animals.

Building a shed with your own hands is not God knows what kind of science, that’s what this article is about. It is much more difficult to immediately position it correctly, taking into account the prospects for your own development and the layout of neighboring plots. The barn is a source of pollution. If initially there were no plans for mice in it, then where is the guarantee that chickens, or even a bull, will not appear there over time? In modern dense buildings, it is difficult to meet sanitary standards, especially considering the future. You may have to build a mobile shed in the fall (see below), and in the spring put it where you need it forever: it’s not so easy to guess right away so that it doesn’t turn out to be an eyesore later.

Take a look at fig. How much is there! An earthly paradise, and that’s all, not a manor. Now take the scale: standard 12 acres and a house of 120 square meters in plan, 80 residential. Having acquired land, they argued all winter about where to start, where to put things. The family's income is average; There was no way to settle down for our own without selling future agricultural products. It was assumed that within 3 years there would be only a barn on the building site, so it had to be built cheaply, but thoroughly. The garage was moved to the far corner and estimates for the road to it were made reluctantly, but there was no other way to fit a garbage dump with a cesspool into sanitary standards, and also ensure access for a garbage truck to the tank and a sanitation tank to the septic tank.

Since the construction was carried out for themselves, they decided to protect themselves from infection not only formally, but also in essence, for which purpose they planted a walnut over the utility yard with the barn. This tree exudes a lot of phytoncides, so nothing really grows under it or around it, but there are no flies and rats either; In addition, in summer it provides excellent shade. Near Lipetsk, the nut had to be nursed for a long time, but in the 8th year it still produced a harvest, by which time the arrangement was completed. Which is what they noted at the pond, taking a sip of what is supposed to be from the cellar; The cellar next to the recreation area came in very handy. And it all started with a barn...

What's first?

The family in question had not previously demonstrated any strategic abilities in themselves. Indeed, without being able to delve into the details, it is impossible to cover the problem globally and achieve success. A simple shed can provide invaluable experience here if you immediately perceive it as the beginning and fundamental basis of future well-being. In general, although the shed itself is not complicated, its construction must be taken with great responsibility. Especially in preparation for construction. Step-by-step preparation for the construction of a barn occurs as follows:

1. We get our bearings and talk to our neighbors. The goal is to find the best place for the shed: so that it is not very far away, but also does not stick out in front of your eyes and fits into sanitary standards for distances to water sources and other objects susceptible to contamination (residential buildings, plantings of agricultural crops, especially root crops);
2. Suddenly there is no clarity on point 1, we are building either a mobile shed or a temporary shed from cheap waste material. However, it is possible to build a shed at the dacha from slabs or used boards that is quite durable, inexpensive and easy to refine until it gives it a quite attractive appearance, see below;
3. If you have decided on a place for a barn right away, we choose the type of upper structure, taking into account the possibility of having pets;
4. We select the roof for the “box”;
5. Determine the type of foundation;
6. We are designing a shed based on the terrain. The latter is especially important, because supervisory authorities do not stand on ceremony with sources of pollution;
7. We reduce (compile) estimates for construction and decoration;
8. We may adjust the project if the barn does not fit into the budget;
9. We may also be considering the option of self-building with subsequent legalization. If the shed obviously complies with SanPiNs (Sanitary Rules and Norms), then it will be cheaper and easier than building it initially according to the project;
10. We buy materials and build.

What to do with the project?

A barn is a lightweight, pre-fabricated, unheated non-residential structure, from which important consequences that make things easier follow. We will talk about them for construction later, but for now you need to know that when registering/legitimizing the greatest quibbles and difficulties should be expected in relation to the location on the ground in accordance with SanPiNs. The actual design of the barn should include sheets with facades, a plan with sections, see track 2 in Fig. and a plan diagram of the foundation with a specification of materials for it, as in Fig. with plan sections.

As a rule, free shed projects from the RuNet are approved without anything and then no one ever thoroughly checks what is actually built there. It looks like a project, and ok. Deviations from the project in construction are acceptable, but in “small-scale construction” you can do without approval. But the layout plan for the site is studied very carefully, as are the plans of neighboring sites and their consent to construction. So make sure to collect these papers in advance, they are valid for 3 years.

Perhaps the corrosive bureaucrat will require another sheet with the frame structure, because... It’s not residential, it’s not residential, but people go there. In such a case, for a sample, see the drawings in Fig. By the way, this is not a bad shed for a 6-acre dacha. In extreme cases, you can sleep there, lying down diagonally.

Note: It is not necessary to list small fasteners (nails, screws, angles, staples) in the bill of materials for the drawings, because it is purchased as it is spent. It is also not necessary to indicate soft roofing materials costing up to 3,000 rubles. If, say, 2 rolls of roofing felt are spent on the roof, then it will cost up to 1000 rubles, so we also classify it as purchased as it is spent. Keep only sales receipts, in case they come to the rescue.

About temporary sheds

A good-quality wooden shed without a foundation weighs up to a ton; with a pitched roof and if you build it carefully, but not like a merchant, you can fit in half a ton. You can move it on rollers along the sleds, see picture, using a crowbar, you can move it together. To lift and place on the base using straps (ropes), 10-12 strong men are enough. Although, who knows, the subsequent treat for this crowd will cost more than renting a truck crane...

What is the point of this, besides the fact that you can build anywhere at first? Moreover, in this case the project is needed no more than for a doghouse, and for it it is not needed at all. If it stands for a year, then later, on the foundation, they will legitimize it, as long as it fits into the SanPiNs.

However, here the question arises for yourself: how to put it on the foundation? We should put them on anchors, but not dismantle the building in order to push them through the crown? There is a way, see below for details.

What to build from?

What building materials are best for a shed? Strong enough, durable, inexpensive and easy to work with? First of all – boards. A barn can be built from boards alone, see below. Unedged boards are cheap, and a structure made from them can look quite neat and even elegant in the spirit of rustic design, pos. 1 in Fig.

Note: even cheaper than the “uncut” croaker. It is also possible to build a shed from it alone, see the video below. True, it is more difficult to bring it to an exquisite “rusticism”. The most difficult part of the work is debarking the croaker, i.e. clearing it of bark; it requires a special hand tool, see the next video.

Video: slab barn

Video: cleaning the slab from bark

Frame shed, pos. 2 in Fig. above, the most common, because The technology of small frame construction is well mastered by private developers. However, to assemble a frame from timber, as for other at least temporarily inhabited buildings (these, by the way, include country toilets with showers), pos. And in Fig. on the right, not necessarily. More precisely, based on strength requirements, it is mandatory for mobile sheds. And if the structure is placed immediately in its place, then the frame can be assembled from only boards, poses. B. This will make the construction much cheaper if unedged and used boards are used.

Sometimes a country shed is sheathed with OSB for the sake of aesthetics, pos. 3, or plywood. These materials are susceptible to delamination in the open air, so before painting, a shed with OSB lining must be properly primed, and a plywood shed must be treated twice with a water-polymer emulsion.

Capital barns, especially livestock ones, are most often built from foam blocks, pos. 4. Their lower strength compared to bricks does not play a role in this case, but a shed made of foam blocks is cheaper, easier to work with, warmer in winter and cooler in summer. If you choose one, keep in mind:

• A shed made of foam blocks can be built on a columnar foundation with a wooden crown, like, for example, a bathhouse.
• No more than 3 lower rows are laid on cement-sand mortar, and above that you need to switch to a special adhesive for aerated concrete. The structure is light, and the upper cement joints, which are weakly loaded vertically, can break under lateral wind pressure.
• Having laid the walls to a third of their height, work is interrupted until the masonry mortar hardens, so that the masonry does not float at the seams. The same break is made for 2/3 of the masonry.

Kits of parts for quick-assembled plastic sheds, pos. 5. However, the prices, to put it mildly, are puzzling, firstly. Secondly, for some reason, living creatures in such sheds do not take root. Perhaps for the same reasons, whatever they may be, why people do not live in plastic houses.

Choosing a roof

What kind of roof to cover the barn: two- or one-pitched? The first has an exclusively aesthetic advantage. There is always a miasma in the barn. Let's be honest, work clothes are not washed every day. And not even every week. But sweet apples and boiled potatoes emit ethylene, which is far from harmless and safe in high concentrations. There is no need to talk about pig chickens.

A pitched roof will provide effective ventilation without any additional measures, on the left in Fig. Suddenly the wind blows into your forehead, the visor becomes an air intake and squeezes unnecessary fumes into the cracks. And under the gable roof they will swirl for quite a long time before leaving through the drag window on the right there. In addition, a pitched roof is much simpler and cheaper. Therefore, it is highly advisable to build a lean-to barn. The exception is if there is a hayloft in his attic.

Base

A temporary shed without a foundation is placed on a crushed stone cushion 25-40 cm thick. It is poured flush with the soil surface, removing the humus. However, a durable shed still needs a foundation that is reliable enough for this type of structure, inexpensive and not very labor-intensive.

Sheds are rarely built on slab foundations: for a conventional foundation they are too labor-intensive and expensive, and in a cowshed or pigsty it is difficult to arrange stalls and a manure pit on a slab. Large livestock barns made of brick are built on a strip or columnar-strip foundation, but for small private farms this is probably unnecessary.

The optimal foundation for a barn is columnar, see fig. Technology of its laying (this is the name of the process of building a foundation); We will analyze here, make this work easier and simpler for the shed. The step-by-step arrangement of a columnar foundation for a barn looks like this:

1. For concrete, we purchase sand and gravel mixture (SGM) from road workers (not builders), it is much cheaper than construction sand and gravel separately. Concrete on the PGS is not suitable for a residential building, but it will be suitable for a barn;
2. We also purchase M400 cement at the rate of 1 bag per 9 bags of ASG. The concrete will be M150, enough for a shed;
3. On the site we make cast-offs from 1 (yes, exactly one) cord on pegs;
4. We check it as usual, by comparing the diagonals and measuring the sides;
5. Using the hydraulic hose level, we find the highest angle and set the distance of the cord from the ground surface to 10 cm;
6. Using the same level, set the cast-off horizontally;
7. In the lowest corner we drill a hole with a 200-mm hand drill to the calculated depth plus 15-25 cm for a sand-crushed stone cushion;
8. We make a mark on the drill rod;
9. We drill the remaining holes until the mark on the drill matches the cord;
10. We fill the wells with equal layers of sand and crushed stone, compacting each layer. ASG cannot be used here, because the solution being poured should penetrate slightly into the crushed stone;
11. We roll up pile sleeves with a diameter of 150 mm from 2 layers of roofing felt. We fasten them with 2 mm soft wire. To prevent the sleeves from bursting when pouring, you need 3-4 strapping belts per 1 m of their length;
12. We put the sleeves in the wells. Place the stones vertically;
13. We cut the sleeves, using metal scissors or large tailor's scissors, flush with the cord;
14. We prepare reinforcement cages: 3 (10-12) mm corrugated rods per post, tied with the same 2 mm wire. The vertical pitch of the bundle is 200-250 mm. The distance from the inner edge of the sleeves and their top is usual, 30-50 mm;
15. We place the frames in sleeves and position them so that they do not touch the walls;
16. Mix the concrete using an ASG until it becomes creamy thick;
17. Fill the pillars layer by layer, in layers of 15-20 cm, with a break of 10-25 minutes. between layers. This is called a hydraulic seal fill. In practice, the layers are poured in order, starting from the same column;
18. Before pouring the last (penultimate) layer, we place anchors in the pillars;
19. On the 3rd day we backfill the soil with a tamper. Be careful not to knock the posts off the vertical!
20. On the 7th day (the concrete has gained 50% strength), construction can continue. On the 20th day, at a temperature of 15-25 degrees, the concrete will gain 75% strength and the structure on it is considered suitable for use.

Topside

So now we're building a barn. For example, such as in Fig. It will also fit in a 6-acre dacha without any problems, but it’s a little larger: you can sleep well in it, and there is a compartment for tools. In the future, perhaps for a woodshed or poultry house.

For novice builders, as a rule, the difficulty is not in reading drawings and diagrams, but in how to put their hands to all this? Unaccustomed to carpentry, not roughened by calluses and not provided with special tools? We will dwell on this in more detail.

Frame connections

The barn, as stated above, is non-residential and in general, from the point of view of SNiP (Building Rules and Norms), is barely a structure. Therefore, it is possible, without fearing anything either in essence or on paper, to use thin-walled metal connectors for wooden parts. Regarding residential buildings, SNiPs are merciless: their metal parts must be at least 4 mm thick. This is dictated by fire resistance requirements: in the event of a fire, the building must resist the fire until it collapses for at least a time sufficient to evacuate people. It's easier with a barn.

Mitrel, claw and tenon connections (items 1 and 2 in the figure), which require special tools and sufficient carpentry skills, do not need to be used. If you still have to, you can reinforce it with hardware not with a square or an envelope, but with a pair of nails/screws diagonally (in the inset there) or lengthwise if the part is narrow.

Connections on stamped corners (crossed out in red) without inserting wooden parts are not entirely reliable on joists and ceiling beams, because They are not adapted to shear loads, and the corners themselves are quite expensive. Perforated plates, pos. 3. They can be bent in any way you like, including: and pockets holding vertical stresses. How do you like the ceiling in Fig. on right? No cutting and cutting of tenons and grooves with painstaking calculations and inevitable mistakes for a beginner, but keep an elephant in the attic.

Perforated plates for embedded anchors are especially good, also at pos. 3. Remember the question: how to place a finished shed on a foundation? Now it's clear how.

Nail plates, pos. 4 allow you to save even more on fasteners, but, firstly, they can only be used flat. Secondly, fastening them requires skill so that the nail bends do not wrinkle. The nail plate must either be gradually hammered evenly over the area, or, conversely, immediately driven in with one powerful and precise blow of a sledgehammer.

Note: for permanently loaded shear joints, e.g. floor joists, it is still better to use special thin-walled joist pockets or pockets for joists, pos. 5.

About the casing

In terms of all technical parameters, the best cladding for a barn is plank. Technologically, it is also not complicated if it is sheathed in a cut pattern (“herringbone”, see figure). And it is very cheap if the board used for the cladding is unedged, and what such sheds come out of in skillful hands can be seen in some figs. in the article.

Only boards

Many timber merchants sell boards cheaper than timber, because... More of them come out of one forest. In addition, if you have a circular saw, it will not be difficult to separate cheap unedged ones into measured ones. Therefore, a shed made entirely of boards is a very pressing issue.

How to solve it is shown in Fig. below. Plank beams can even be assembled from scraps, pos. a) and b). The intermediate posts are made box-shaped (pos. c) for internal partitions, and T-bars (pos. d) frame window and door openings.

Is it just boards?

Sheds made of corrugated sheets are most often sold ready-made on a metal frame, pos. 1 in Fig. In general, this is not the best option: such a barn is stuffy in summer and cold in winter. But perhaps, for economic reasons, you will settle on this design. Then you need to take into account that a thin profiled sheet in a building structure will not serve as a working cladding and the wooden frame of a shed made of corrugated sheets needs to be reinforced.

Actually, strengthening the frame will not cost extra money and labor; it is enough to install braces across the entire wall of 40 mm boards, not flat, relative to the lower crown, but edgewise, pos. 2. In this case, there will be a door and a window in the front wall. If there is only a door, then its opening is made in the middle and the jibs are placed on both sides of it.

The struts are not cut into the racks, they are simply nailed. Horizontal slats as thick as the board are placed under the sheathing; When crossing with the braces, breaks are made in the sheathing. The sheathing is attached to both the sheathing and the braces.

Note: It is highly advisable to adjust the dimensions of the shed and the selected corrugated sheeting so that the depressions of the waves of the vertical sheathing fall on the corners. Then they are attached directly to the corner posts, which will give some additional strength to the structure.

The same type of frames can be sheathed with small unmeasured boards: container board (item 3), scraps. You can make a very cute shed out of just about anything in different ways. For example, lighten old boards as described below, sand them, stain them with stain and stuff them in an artistic mess, pos. 4. Or paint the boards separately, creating geometric patterns, or dream up something else.

Very “bad” boards

Old boards are dark and unsightly. The frame of a shed can be whipped up literally from garbage, pos. 1 in Fig. The result will be a painfully familiar bawdy shack, pos. 2. However, if you inherited one from your great-grandfather, but is still quite dilapidated and crooked, it is not so difficult to bring it to a form similar to that in pos. 3:

• Take out the window, remove the door.
• Support the corners from the outside with struts made of poles, aligning the pillars. If it doesn’t go any further, it’s not necessary, why ruin something that is strong?
• Inspect carefully and secure with self-tapping screws. We don’t touch the old nails, let them rust until the end.
• Remove the roof and roof sheathing.
• Treat the entire structure with wood brightener (regenerator).
• After 2-5 days, treat with another biocidal impregnation, drying oil or, in extreme cases, treatment.
• Varnish with acrylic varnish if desired. There is no need to paint, the “rusticity” will go away, and the “crookedness” will disappear in all forms.
• Install a new window, hang a door, lay a roof.

About lightening wood

Wood restorers are made from bleach. Therefore, if lumber is processed individually, you need to work in the air or in a well-ventilated area. There is no need to apply the composition with a spray, as is often written in the instructions (they seem to be compiled by marketers, not forestry engineers), everything around will be splashed with a caustic liquid. Treat with a brush; best of all - plaster plaster; it absorbs a lot of solution and releases it evenly.

We reached the roof

The advantages of a pitched roof for a shed have already been discussed. If you are more satisfied with a gable roof, then its rafters will be quite sufficient with one suspension without crossbars, pos. B in Fig. The material everywhere is 100x50 timber or 100x40 board. The Mauerlat is not needed; the rafter trusses are attached to the beams of the upper frame on the corners or bent perforated plates. All parts of the truss are connected in the same way.

It is not worth cutting the tops of the legs into each other, as usual (pos. A), nor is it worth fastening the ridge corner of the legs with a steel plate: the first is too difficult, the second is weak. The roof ridge is formed, firstly, on the ground with gussets (pos. B1) from scraps of boards from 20 mm thick. The scarves are placed on both sides, secured with 12 screws, 3 for each half of the scarf. And the final strength of the rafter structure is obtained after installing a ridge girder made of 2 boards, pos. AT 2; it is nailed or screwed to the legs, 2 attachment points per leg.

About sheds for livestock

Sheds for productive domestic animals require a separate description, and one for each species. A cowshed with a pigsty and a chicken coop are combined only geographically on the same farm yard. From the point of view, so to speak, of general barn construction, it is necessary to take into account, first of all, that animal droppings are chemically aggressive, emit a lot of ammonia (especially poultry and pork), and its consistency and drying speed are significantly different. In any case, manure must be removed as it arrives and stored, because Any kind of it except pork is a valuable fertilizer.

The first thing that follows from this is that the barn for livestock must be well ventilated, located in accordance with SanPiN and legalized. Further, a heavy pig or a young bull, scratching itself on a corner, will create considerable loads in the structure. A dairy cow weighing half a ton is not yet a giant among its kind, and it comes from 4 hooves, the supporting area of ​​which is much less than 1 square meter. m. That is, about human according to SNiPs 250 kg/sq. We need to forget and take into account the real load.

Finally, goats are known to be not averse to eating pieces of wood. For the barn to be completely eaten up, this has not been observed. But the bactericidal and water-repellent impregnations required for wooden buildings will not benefit them until they die.

So, a chicken barn can be structurally ordinary, but with good ventilation and chemical resistance; for pigs - also wooden, but on a reinforced timber frame, for example, as in rice; For goats, a wooden shed is undesirable, but for cows, in addition, it must be warm, because... a freezing cow gets sick easily and will not give a good milk yield; in general, it is preferable to build a barn for livestock from foam blocks on a strip foundation. A sheepfold may be simpler, but sheep breeding in small private farms is not developed in the world, because... It is only profitable on a large enough scale.

About woodburners

Good natural ventilation is also necessary in a woodshed: the calorific value of wet wood fuel drops sharply, causing heating costs to rise, and a boiler using wet wood will fail faster. For ease of use, woodsheds are most often made as an extension to the house, pos. 1 in the figure, or on the veranda, pos. 2. If this is unacceptable for aesthetic reasons, then a firewood shed is built in accordance with the mode of use and/or climatic conditions.

For a seasonal dacha, inhabited from spring to autumn, with low and irregular fuel consumption, you need a woodshed with wide roof overhangs (from rain) and a solid floor raised above the ground by at least 0.4 m, so that the firewood does not draw in moist fumes from land. It is also highly advisable to remove the humus underneath and cover the soil with waterproofing, pos. 3.

In places with harsh continental winters, preference should be given to ventilation, pos. 4. Ice, as is known, sublimates (turns into steam without melting) even in the Siberian frost, only slowly. But in areas with mild and even more so “rotten” winters of the Mediterranean type, firewood needs to be properly protected from precipitation, pos. 4, turning the woodshed with its rear towards the prevailing winds.

How to save on foundation

Look again at Fig. with a columnar foundation. Doesn't it seem like there are a lot of pillars? Yes, the load-bearing capacity of such a foundation under a barn is excessive, even if it is made of M75 concrete. But there seems to be nowhere to go: if you place the pillars less often than every 1.5-1.7 m, then the lower crown will not receive proper support. And the foundation, as anyone understands, is the most expensive and difficult part of the barn. So, it is quite possible to erect a 3 by 3 m barn on 5 pillars instead of 9, without losing at all in strength.

Let us take into account again that a barn is a non-residential, utility building and non-standard technical solutions are permissible in it. And, remembering what we learned at the university, let’s first turn the flooring from a panel into a membrane. This ingenuity can be easily implemented by hand: we lay the floor from tongue-and-groove boards from 100x40 to 150x40. It is more expensive than edged timber, but the savings on poles will be many times greater than the overexpenditure on timber.

Then let us remember that a triangular membrane is much stiffer than a square membrane of the same area. As a result, we will get the lower crown, as on the left in Fig. There is no need to tinker with trigonometry when calculating oblique grooves: they are marked in place by placing a board on the frame. The floor is laid without joists, directly along the crown beams, from edge to edge. Two 3x3 modules can be brought together for a 6 by 3 m barn, but there is no need to sculpt a large structure from such modules: the calculation is valid if the cells have no more than 1 common beam. There are additional conditions:

1. Frames are only timber frames 100x100 mm; prefabricated ones made from boards are not suitable.
2. The vertical frames of the module are supported with struts made of 100x40 boards flat on steel fasteners without any insertion, except for the one where the door will be.
3. For a 6x3 shed, additional vertical posts from the same board are needed in increments of 1.5 m (not shown in the figure).
4. The flooring of the 6x3 frame is made of boards 6 m long lengthwise, so that the floor boards are solid.
5. It is highly advisable to place corner posts (the same timber 100x100) on the so-called. quarter tenon, reinforced with corners, see fig. on the right is higher, and the large intermediate 6x3 frames are half the tree, as marked in the diagram.

In addition

Every home always contains a variety of items and household tools that simply do not have a suitable place inside a residential building. To store such things, sheds or garages are usually used, if the local area allows.

However, often there is no space on the site to build a separate structure, so the owners decide to build an extension to their house. In this article we will tell you how to make a pitched roof on an extension and what materials may be needed for this.

How to make a roof for an extension to a house

A lightweight roofing structure, which consists of only one inclined slope, is usually called a shed roof. Let's look at how to make a roof on an extension to a house, what are the nuances and features of construction. This design includes a rafter system, gables, sheathing and finishing roofing material. A special feature of attaching a pitched roof to a house is the need to secure it to one of the load-bearing walls of the main building.

The structural elements of a pitched roof of this type are as follows:

1. Mauerlat. This is the main support beam, which bears the main weight of all rafter structures and roofing material. It also redistributes the load on the load-bearing walls and foundation of the building. To lay this element, hard wood treated with antiseptics is used. When deciding to build a pitched roof for an extension to a house with your own hands, one beam of the Mauerlat is fixed on the load-bearing wall of the building, and the second is fixed on vertical supports.
2. Rafters. These elements support the roofing material and transfer its mass further to the mauerlat beam. To create rafter legs, use a board with a section of 50×150 or 100×150 mm. To fasten them to the support beam, cuts are made at both ends of the rafters.
3. Struts. These are additional supporting elements of the frame that support the rafter legs if the length of the slope exceeds 4 m. One end of them rests on the rafters, and the other on the mauerlat.
4. Lathing. For its arrangement, boards measuring 40×150 mm are used. They are placed on top of the rafters at a certain pitch to create support for laying the finishing coating. A continuous sheathing of plywood or particle boards is used for soft roofing.

It is worth noting that the drawing of a shed with a pitched roof attached to a house can be done independently, since this design is the simplest of all possible. This does not require complex mathematical calculations. True, special attention should be paid to the method of joining the roof of the extension to the main building. It is important to ensure reliable waterproofing of the seam to avoid leaks.

Design calculations and drawing of a pitched roof

Of course, in order for the finished structure to be durable and not cause problems during rainfall or the cold season, before starting construction you need to draw up a design for a shed with a pitched roof that will be adjacent to the house. In this case, it will be necessary to calculate the surface area of ​​the slope, its slope, the length of the rafter legs and the difference in the height of the supports. All this should be included in the house roof project. Correct calculations will ensure the durability of the roof and its efficiency. You can determine the necessary parameters using ready-made calculator programs or using formulas.

Manually, the required quantities are calculated as follows:

• The angle of inclination of the roof is determined by dividing the difference in the height of the support pillars by the width of the structure. As a rule, it is within 15-40º and is determined based on the weather conditions of the area and the requirements of roofing material manufacturers.
• For a given slope slope, the difference in the heights of the support pillars can be calculated by multiplying the angle by the width of the extension. These parameters are calculated so that when constructing a pitched roof for an extension to a house, the required slope can be maintained.
• To determine the length of the rafters, it is necessary to divide the difference in the height of the supports by the sine of the slope of the slope. The resulting value will allow you to calculate the amount of material required to create a rafter system for an extension to a house.
• You can calculate the surface area by multiplying the length and width of the slope - the parameter is used to determine the amount of roofing and waterproofing materials for the roof. Please note that you need to purchase them with a 15-20% margin for trimming and overlaps.

The weather conditions of the area significantly affect the durability of the roof. So, if significant snow loads are expected, it is better to make the slopes steeper, and if windy weather prevails, flatter, with a slope of less than 15º.

What materials are needed for a barn roof?

Let's think about how to cheaply cover a barn roof to reduce costs. The most reasonable thing from the point of view of safety from wind and heavy rainfall would be to build a shed with a pitched roof, since fairly inexpensive materials will be needed. In addition, you will not have any problems purchasing them - everything is freely available in stores. And the number of consumables will be much less than for roofs of a more complex design.

During the construction of the roof of an extension to the house you will need:

1. Wood. You will need pine beams with a cross-section of 100×100 or 150×150 mm, edged boards 50×150 mm, unedged boards 40×150 mm and a lath with a cross-section of 25×50 mm for the construction of the rafter system. The moisture content of the material should not exceed 15-16%, and its surface should be free of chips, cracks and stains. Using deep penetration antiseptics, you can avoid rotting and mold formation due to penetrating moisture.
2. Roof covering. You can select a suitable material in terms of quality and cost from a wide range of varieties on the market. A budget option would be slate, corrugated sheeting or roofing felt. A higher quality and visually presentable material – soft roofing, ondulin, metal tiles – will cost twice as much. If we are talking about covering a winter garden, greenhouse or veranda, you can use polycarbonate - a transparent material that perfectly transmits sunlight, a thermal insulating material.
3. Waterproofing. This layer is intended to protect the wooden truss system of the roof of the extension from moisture penetration and, as a result, damage to structures. For this, roofing material, film or diffuse membrane can be used. However, in practice, roofing material has shown itself to be the best, since it is the most durable of the above.
4. Fastenings. There are many options for fastening consumables when installing a roof - self-tapping screws with rubber washers, nails, anchors, metal corners. In the case of self-tapping screws, their consumption per 1 m 2 of area is about 10 pieces. So, to calculate the quantity, the consumption rate must be multiplied by the area.

Please note that choosing a roof covering similar to the main building will make the extension a harmonious continuation of the house. However, if this is not possible due to financial capabilities, it is worth choosing a material that is as close as possible in color. The choice of lightweight materials (ondulin, roofing felt or corrugated sheets) will make it possible to create a lightweight, simple frame.

Methods for constructing a roof structure with your own hands

So, if you decide to build the roof of the house extension with your own hands, after designing and purchasing materials, you can begin construction. To work, you will need a hacksaw or grinder, a screwdriver, a plane, a drill, a stapler, a ruler, a marker and some string.

Construction is carried out in several stages:

• Using anchor bolts or metal studs, the first Mauerlat beam is installed on the load-bearing wall of the house. The rafter legs will be laid on it, so the fixation must be reliable.
• The second beam of the Mauerlat is mounted either on the load-bearing wall of the future extension or on support posts. Their height must be lower than the main load-bearing wall of the house to ensure the required roof slope. The beam is fastened on the posts with studs, and on the load-bearing wall with anchor bolts.
• Next, the calculated number of rafter legs of the same length is made and cuts are made in each of them for laying on the mauerlat. The outer rafters are attached first, then a cord is pulled between them, and all the remaining legs are attached to this level.
• Waterproofing is laid over the rafters. The roofing material at the junction of the extension with the main house is brought 15-20 cm onto the wall and melted to it using a gas burner.
• The waterproofing layer is fastened with a counter batten nailed to the rafters. The main sheathing under the roofing material is mounted perpendicular to the counter-lattice in increments of 10-15 cm.
• The last step will be laying the roofing covering on the sheathing. You need to start the flooring from right to left and from bottom to top, laying sheets with an overlap of 10-15 cm. On flat roofs, the overlap of the material is increased, and the joints are additionally coated with a sealing compound.

It is worth noting that the movement of water along a pitched roof will only occur in one direction, therefore it is necessary to install high-quality gutters. Lastly, you can begin insulation work and the final filing of the gables.

At first glance, it seems that building a shed is simple. Choose a picture you like on the Internet or drawings of a utility unit you like - and build it for your health. Moreover, you can make a barn from timber, using frame technology, or even a stone one - from brick or aerated concrete. But behind the apparent ease lies the main pitfall. The barn in the picture is not yours, but “that guy’s.” Will it be right for you, will it be convenient to use this outbuilding, will everything that is planned fit into it? You will learn the answers to these questions, and more, from our article. Namely:

• What is a shed for?
• How to determine the optimal size of an outbuilding.
• How to turn a barn into a multi-functional building.
• What are utility blocks built from and on what foundation?

Where does the construction of a barn begin?

Often, a barn is the first building that is erected on a site, at the start of building a house or even before that. To hide tools, building materials, to take shelter from bad weather or to spend the night - in everything, the “shed” becomes an indispensable and universal assistant.

After the site has been inhabited, the tools and equipment necessary for caring for the garden and vegetable garden are stored in the outbuilding.

They drag in snow removal equipment, lawn mowers, and building materials that were left after the construction of the cottage. And often - everything that is a pity to throw away or is planned to be left “for later”, because a zealous owner makes everything work.

It is not surprising that over time the barn turns into a “junk pile”, filled with a mass of necessary and unnecessary things. If it is easier for the owner to go to the market and buy the wrench or hardware needed on the farm than to find them in the utility room, then something needs to be done about it. And you need to start in advance, even before the construction of the shed begins, by properly designing it and calculating the optimal dimensions.

MAX001 FORUMHOUSE Member

I have a brick house of 200 square meters. m and an ordinary change house measuring 6x3 meters. One day I realized that the change house, which had been in use for 3 years, had outlived its usefulness. I sold it and wondered what to do with the tool and other things pulled out of it. I decided to build a barn. At this stage, I made a fatal mistake - I consulted with my wife about the dimensions of the outbuilding. As a result of lengthy negotiations, during which my wife did not see the point in building something big, we came to a common denominator - a small utility block, approximately 2.5x3 meters + high ceilings.

We will immediately show what happened to the user.

The problem is that all the beautiful “pictures” of the correct placement of things in the shed were shattered by the reefs of harsh reality a year later. The racks and shelves were filled with various “junk”, and there was practically no free space left.

When asked what to do about it, the user found the only correct answer - to attach another one to the barn... a barn. According to MAX001, headaches can be avoided if you immediately erect an outbuilding of normal size. And so I had to buy another iron door, build walls, and so on down the list.

But now everything fits in the barn.

Although there is an opinion that the larger the shed, the more clutter it can become, there are minimum dimensions below which you should not build. Otherwise, you’ll have to throw everything up to the ceiling, filling the shed like a shopping bag. There will never be order in the utility room. The starting point for calculating the dimensions of the utility unit is the physical dimensions of the things that you are going to store there.

Ironka Member of FORUMHOUSE

My mother built a shed at the dacha measuring only 9 square meters. m. As a result: now you can only stand in the middle. Moreover, nothing large, in the form of any special equipment, is stored there. Just a bicycle, greenhouse films, hoes, axes, saws, nails and various small things. I think that building a shed less than 15-18 square meters. m not worth it. This way there will still be room left in reserve.

MAX001

My shed is about 12 square meters. m. is saved by the fact that the ceilings are high, you can put up shelving. I even use the space between the rafters - I filled the bars and store folding country furniture there, and in the summer - skis.

In addition, the user increased the functionality of the shed by mounting a shed for the firewood on the outside wall (stone), where it is now possible to store about 2 cubes of logs.

Cosolapyj FORUMHOUSE Member

I decided to build a barnhouse style because... the number of tools and various equipment exceeded all reasonable limits. It is not possible to store everything compactly, so the shed will have the appropriate dimensions - 8x18 meters, at USHP.

When constructing outbuildings, the user recommends adhering to the principle “do a little more at once than you can afford, and you won’t have to redo it for longer.”

Let's add that in the barn Cosolapyj plans to equip a workshop, make a water supply for car washing, and also (eventually) install an ATV and a garden grader.

We'll also show you the barn plans.

From left to right: a storage room and a place for a grader, in the middle is a workshop, on the left is a shed.

How to calculate the optimal dimensions of a shed and turn it into a universal utility unit

As can be seen from what is written above, by the word “shed” each developer means his own building. In one case, you need a small outbuilding for storing garden tools and various small items, and in another, the barn grows to the size of a house. But there is one nuance that unites them. This is ease of use.

The shed must be practical, which means it must be made for specific needs.

Therefore, instead of taking the dimensions of the shed from the Internet or from a neighbor, it is better to decide for yourself what you need the shed for and what you plan to store in it.

There can be many options for such planning. For example, at the initial stage of construction in the barn it is necessary to place tools, some building materials, and equip sleeping places.

In the future, the barn can be transformed from just a “storage room” on the site - into a workshop, as well as a place for storing firewood or pellets.

Or it can turn into a “garage” for storing various equipment - a motor cultivator, lawn mower, vibratory rammer, snow blower, etc.

Any summer resident has a basic set of tools and agricultural equipment, which he cannot do without on his plot. It is from this list that you need to start when calculating the minimum dimensions of the shed.

For example, to store a simple set of garden tools - shovels, rakes, axes, hoes, small spades, saws, brooms - you can allocate 2 square meters. m.

If you plan to actively garden and store fertilizers and greenhouse materials in the shed, increase the area to 3-4 square meters. m.

If you have electric tools: a gas trimmer, a high-pressure washer, garden pumps, hoses, sets of ordinary tools, you need even more space - 5 or more square meters.

Practice shows that the averaged and The optimal size for an outbuilding can be taken as dimensions of 3x6 meters with a height of 2.5 m.

In this case, it will be possible to place long building materials in the shed - boards and fittings. Set up a small workspace for a home handyman, install racks for storing hardware and various household items.

When building a barn, do not forget about arranging a small terrace with a canopy, where you can work outside in bad weather or just relax while sitting at your desk in the evening.

An important stage is zoning the barn. To do this, we divide the building into a number of rooms - blocks, each of which stores its own. For example, “dirty” things - a garden wheelbarrow, shovels, rakes, spades, watering hoses, etc. It is better not to drag what is needed for working with the soil into the outbuilding, but to place it on the side in a small compartment with separate doors.

This way, these tools will always be at hand and you won’t have to sweep/wipe the floor in the barn every time, cleaning out sand, black soil, fertilizers or clay.

We allocate space for a work table, shelves with carpentry and plumbing tools and places to store bolts, nuts, nails, screws, etc.

Rule: we place what is required first and most often closer to the entrance. Anything that is rarely used or used seasonally can be placed in the back of the shed against the far wall.

If you plan to store long materials in the barn, then, for ease of pulling them in, you should make the door not in the middle of the building, but on the side - on the right or left, or at the end. If you are not “greedy” at the height of the barn, then the attic can also become the optimal place to store leftover fittings, boards, plywood, and pipes.

Those. everything that is not needed often, but can be easily obtained if necessary. In addition, even before construction we think about whether the barn will be insulated. In our climatic conditions, this will allow working in outbuildings in late autumn and winter.

Household block: design options and construction features

Experienced developers know well that it is better to learn from the mistakes of others, so as not to make mistakes in their construction. To do this, it is best to study the experience of portal users who have already built sheds and cabins. Therefore, in this part of the article we have collected illustrative examples of practical utility units.

What materials can you build a shed from? The experience of our users shows: from any. It all depends on the budget and the intended design. Everything is used, they build from wooden budget outbuildings standing on, to permanent buildings made of brick or aerated concrete. In any case, you should start by developing a plan, and ideally a project. An illustrative example is a portal participant with the nickname AlexanderFJTI.

AlexanderFJTI User FORUMHOUSE

It all started when I conceived the idea of ​​building a utility complex - combining a barn, a terrace and a bathhouse under one roof. Construction began with a model. I bought slats at the store and, together with my son, built a model of a multi-shed in the winter.

Note that the barn was built using one of the most common technologies used for the construction of such objects - frame. Screw piles were used as the foundation.

AlexanderFJTI

A team of three people screwed 21 piles by hand. They worked very quickly. The piles were cut to the water level, the shaft was filled with cement-sand mortar, and the cap was welded on top and everything was painted. Next I started building the frame. And this is what happened in the end.

To save on the services of a construction team, it is better to build the barn yourself and use the experience gained when building a house.

A different approach was taken Goshapiter.

Goshapiter FORUMHOUSE Member

There was a barn on my property that my grandfather built back in 2001. The building served faithfully all these years, but it became “cramped” for all the equipment stored there. In addition, it was worn out, so I decided to build a new one from permanent polystyrene foam formwork. Dimensions from the inside - 4800x3600 mm. The roof is flexible tiles.

As a foundation, the user erected a “ribbon”, within the perimeter of which, from the inside, a slab was poured.

In this option, the slab is also the finished subfloor of the barn. In addition, the problem of possible rotting of the wooden floor disappears. You can also, without fear of a “trampoline,” place heavy shelving, a table with tools, machines and vices in the barn.

The inside of the utility block was finished with OSB boards, which were secured on guides from the drywall fastening. Siding was used on the outside.

Goshapiter

Everything fit in the barn - bicycles, gardening equipment, tiles left over from the construction of the house. Construction took 1.5 months. It would have turned out faster if not for “wet” concrete work.

Another example of an unusual barn - a utility block Dmitr173, made from homemade tongue-and-groove boards.

Dmitr173 FORUMHOUSE Member

I, like any owner of a country plot, thought about building a barn. It should accommodate: a small workshop; my wife needs a corner for storing gardening supplies. Besides this, I would like to build something original - for the soul.

Having drawn up the technical specifications and gone through several options, the user decided to build a shed from tongue-and-groove boards. The foundation is a proven and relatively inexpensive MZLF (shallow strip foundation).

To maximize the use of natural light, the roof of the barn has a transparent polycarbonate insert.

Every owner of a summer cottage has a need to erect a building in which to store garden tools and other things necessary for business activities. A DIY barn can be used to house poultry, rabbits, pigs or goats. A workshop or warehouse for storing crops is often set up here. In the utility block you can equip a toilet with a shower, adding a bath room to the building.

Such a building can be temporary or permanent. The second option requires drawing up a project for a shed linked to the site plan. The structure can be intended for specific purposes or be multifunctional, consisting of several compartments. The building is quite often used as a barn for keeping livestock and feed supplies. There are special requirements for the construction of such structures.

A multifunctional building most often consists of several zones where storage space is organized, a toilet and shower are equipped. By adding a veranda or terrace, you can expand the functionality of the structure by creating a place for relaxing and eating.

A number of requirements are put forward for an outbuilding in the form of a barn. The structure must be erected quickly and cheaply. Despite the fact that it is classified as non-residential, the structure must be solid, reliable and durable, and have the minimum comfortable conditions necessary for further operation. Depending on its purpose, the building must be insulated to the required extent. The size of the shed should be selected based on the dimensions of the site and the purpose of the building. It must ensure comfortable and free movement of a person.

Helpful advice! You should not build a structure that is too high. However, it should be taken into account that a person must move in it at full height, without bending.

The construction of the barn is carried out taking into account technical, sanitary and fire safety requirements. If gas cylinders, flammable liquids and other combustible materials will be stored here, you should take a particularly responsible approach to the issue of fire safety. An important role in utility units is assigned to the proper organization of good ventilation.

How to build a barn at the dacha: construction technologies

There are three options for building a shed in the country:

• monolithic technology;
• frame construction;
• modular method.

Monolithic technology consists of erecting a structure from building elements in the form of cinder blocks, foam concrete and aerated concrete, brick, cobblestones or log frames. This method allows you to obtain a high-strength, capital and durable building, which will be quite expensive. You can speed up construction while reducing costs by using cinder blocks or foam blocks. Such masonry is used quite often today for large structures with an area of ​​20 m² or more.

The most popular method for building sheds is frame technology. Its principle is to create a strong frame, which is the skeleton of the building, from wooden beams or profile pipes, followed by covering it with panels, panels, slabs or wood. This type of DIY shed construction is carried out at a fast pace and is relatively inexpensive. At the same time, the proper strength and reliability of the structure is ensured.

The modular method involves assembling a house from ready-made modules, which can be made of metal or plastic, as shown in photos of beautiful sheds. The elements are fastened to each other through the use of special parts. The main feature of such structures is their mobility. The building can be disassembled and moved to another location.

How to build a barn with your own hands: preparatory activities

Before making a barn, you should plan the site area and determine the location of the future structure. This issue has its own characteristics. The barn is being built on an area not used for growing summer cottage crops. The building should not be located in a low area. In the event of heavy precipitation, the building will be subject to constant flooding.

Depending on the purpose of the shed, it must be located at a remote distance from the residential building and the interface with the neighboring plot, which is regulated by current regulatory documentation.

Then you will need to draw up a plan for the future construction with the design of the premises. All sizes should be listed here. You can make the drawing yourself, taking into account personal preferences, or use ready-made standard designs for a garden shed presented on specialized websites.

The next step is to compile (based on the do-it-yourself barn drawings) a list of building materials, which depends on the construction technology of the structure. For frame construction, the amount of material required to create the frame of the structure and finish the building is calculated. In the case of using a monolithic option, the number of masonry materials and the amount of mortar that will be needed to complete the work are determined.

Building a foundation for a barn with your own hands

Under the shed, you can make one of two types of foundation: strip or columnar. The first option is suitable for permanent frame structures with a concrete base. Light buildings are recommended to be placed on a columnar base.

Important! Strip foundations cannot be erected in areas with sedimentary soil or peat.

The step-by-step technology for laying a strip foundation for a barn with your own hands is as follows:

• making markings for the future building according to its dimensions;
• preparing a trench 40 cm deep and 30 cm wide;
• filling the depression with a layer of sand and crushed stone 15 cm high;
• strengthening the bottom and side walls with roofing felt;

• installation of formwork around the perimeter of the trench;
• laying a reinforcing frame in the form of a box of 12 mm thick rods over the entire area of ​​the recess;
• pouring concrete mortar.

Important! The foundation must protrude above the ground level to the height of the plinth.

After two to three weeks, you will be able to start building a barn at your dacha with your own hands.

Installation of a columnar base involves the following steps:

• making holes 80 cm deep under the foundation pillars at the corners of the structure and at the junction of partitions, which should be spaced at least 1.5 m;
• filling the bottom of the holes with a layer of crushed stone or gravel with sand 15 cm thick;
• installing pieces of metal or asbestos-cement pipe or roofing felt sleeves into the holes;

• filling the space between the stand and the ground with sand and gravel;
• filling the pipe cavity with reinforcement 10-12 mm thick, tied with 2 mm wire;
• pouring pipes with concrete.

Helpful advice! To improve the waterproofing of the base and extend its service life, the support pillars should be coated with special mastic.

The posts can be made of brick or concrete blocks. You can also use oak or larch logs with a thickness of at least 300 mm. Wooden products must be carefully treated with an antiseptic. The lower part of the logs, which is buried in the ground, is covered with bitumen mastic and wrapped in several layers of roofing material. After installing the posts in the holes, the wooden supports are filled with concrete.

Frame barn: features of construction technology

Frame technology is very popular in the construction of sheds, according to which the skeleton of the building is erected, which is subsequently sheathed with finishing material. The frame is made of wood or metal. The last option is used to create a shed from corrugated sheets with your own hands. Wooden frame construction, which is characterized by increased strength and the ability to withstand significant loads, is widespread.

Frame technology makes it possible to erect a structure in a short time with minimal costs. Since wood is a high-tech raw material, it becomes possible to add additional elements. The material is quite durable, has high thermal insulation characteristics and is environmentally friendly.

Wood is characterized by hygroscopicity, which contributes to high moisture absorption with the formation of rot, mold and fungal infections. Therefore, the material needs to be treated with special moisture-resistant and antiseptic compounds, and to extend its service life it can be coated with an outer protective layer of varnish or paint.

The durability and design of the shed directly depend on the cost of materials. You can build a barn cheaply and quickly with your own hands from unedged spruce, birch or pine boards, but the building will have an unsightly appearance. A more aesthetic structure will be made from high-quality material in the form of edged boards, profiled timber or lining.

We build a barn with our own hands using frame technology

After the base for the shed has completely hardened, you can begin to build the frame of the wooden shed with your own hands. Its production begins with the lower frame, which will serve as the basis for the future structure. Therefore, for its manufacture you should use high-quality wooden beams without knots and mechanical damage.

Before you make a shed from boards with your own hands, you need to waterproof the foundation. To do this, the base must be covered with two sheets of roofing material. This procedure will protect the wooden frame from dampness.

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Types of garages. Premises arrangement plan. Finishing walls and floors in the garage. Choice of lighting. Placement of shelving. Useful tips.

The lower frame is created from timber with a section of 100x100 mm. In the corners, the elements are attached using dowels. Logs made of boards with a cross section of 50x100 mm are attached to the strapping crown at a distance of 50 cm from each other. The next step is the construction of wooden racks from timber of the same cross-section as for the lower frame. They are fixed using overhead metal plates or can be nailed obliquely.

Important! If a pitched roof is installed, wooden posts are installed at different heights, which will facilitate further roofing work.

The distance between wooden posts should not exceed 1.5 m. 0.6 m is considered optimal. In this case, each support will coincide with the upper floor beams and become a reliable basis for the roof. To create additional rigidity, struts are attached to the vertical posts and the lower frame using bolted connections. In the upper part, at a distance of 2 m from the lower crown, the racks are tied by creating a wooden frame. Door and window openings are formed using vertical posts and horizontal crossbars. The distance between them is determined by the dimensions of the structure.

To create the frame of a shed, not only wooden beams can be used. Here you can use a steel pipe, angle or profile. The order of constructing the frame in this case remains unchanged. The only difference is that all metal elements are connected to each other by electric welding. Such a frame does not require the construction of a foundation. It can be installed on a sand and gravel embankment.

Helpful advice! The metal frame should be painted before covering. The exception is galvanized profiles.

Do-it-yourself floor and walls of a wooden building at the dacha

After creating the frame and laying the joists, you can begin installing the floor. For a cold shed made of boards with your own hands, it is advisable to use OSB sheets, which are nailed to the joists. Waterproofing in the form of a sheet of roofing material is laid on top of them. Next, a finishing floor is made from tongue-and-groove or edged boards. The first option is more preferable due to the fact that there are special grooves at the ends of the boards that eliminate the possibility of cracks forming, thereby increasing the strength of the floor.

The floor can be insulated. To do this, use mineral wool, expanded clay or polystyrene foam, which are laid before installing the floor covering. To do this, OSB slabs are lined with lags from below. This process is carried out before the stage of erecting the frame racks. If this moment was missed, then the subfloor made of this material is filled with logs on top. A counter-lattice is mounted on the slabs, which is necessary to create cells in which the insulation is laid. Waterproofing is laid underneath it on the subfloor. The top of the insulation is covered with a layer of vapor barrier. Next, the clean floor is installed.

Helpful advice! The height of the insulation should be slightly less than the height of the joist to provide a ventilated gap between it and the floor covering.

Before finishing the walls, the frame must be strengthened with permanent jibs. They are especially needed if the structure will be sheathed with boards or clapboards. The jibs are installed at an angle of 45°, which provides better structural rigidity. Near doors or windows it is allowed to maintain an angle of 60°. The joining of elements to the frame is carried out “in a paw” or “half-tree”, which eliminates the formation of gaps.

Important! Before fastening the jibs, you should check the evenness of the corners of the frame using a building level or plumb line.

After completing the installation of the jibs and flooring, the walls are insulated. To do this, use polystyrene foam or mineral wool. On the room side, the material is covered with a vapor barrier followed by cladding, and on the street side - with waterproofing, to which a counter-lattice made of planks with a cross-section of 20x40 mm is nailed to create a ventilation gap.

Do-it-yourself roof installation for a frame barn

To create a shed roof with your own hands, wooden boards with a section of 50x100 mm are used, from which the rafters are made. It is most convenient to assemble the structure on the ground and fix it ready-made on the frame posts. The rafters are attached at a distance of 0.7-0.8 m from each other. The sheathing is mounted on top of them. To do this, strips of unedged boards are installed with a gap of 15-20 cm from each other (in the case of using slate as a roofing material). If rolled products are used, then the lathing pitch should not exceed 2-3 cm.

Important! The sheathing must be covered with waterproofing material.

You can do without rafters. To do this, the front wall of the frame is made 50 cm higher than the back wall, as shown in the drawing of a 3x6 do-it-yourself dacha barn with a pitched roof. In this case, the floor beams are placed on the top frame at a certain slope. They will act as rafters. With this option, it is necessary to organize an overhang of the roof, which is ensured by overlapping the beams by 50 cm in front and behind the structure.

To obtain an attic space, a gable roof is erected over the barn, which is formed by triangular rafters that are attached to the upper frame frame. In this case, the front and rear walls of the frame must have the same height.

Types of roofing for a country shed

You can use metal tiles, slate, ondulin, flexible tiles, roofing felt or corrugated sheets as roofing for a barn at your dacha with your own hands. One of the most budget-friendly options is slate, which is characterized by durability, good strength, and weather resistance. However, it is quite fragile and therefore requires careful handling. When installing it, there is no need to stuff a reliable sheathing. The material has low aesthetic properties, which is not so important for a barn in the country.

Metal tiles are also an inexpensive material that is characterized by durability, a wide range and attractive appearance. When installing the coating, you should be wary of scratches and other damage, which will become a prerequisite for the formation of corrosion.

The professional sheet is similar in its technical and operational characteristics to metal tiles. However, it costs much less and has a simpler appearance, which is clearly shown in the photo of a do-it-yourself shed made from corrugated sheets.

A cheap and simple roofing covering is rolled roofing felt. It is characterized by ease of installation, carried out in several layers, and low aesthetics. Soft slate is represented by ondulin, which is lightweight, flexible, easy to install and has an aesthetic appearance. However, the material is flammable.

Flexible metal tiles have good performance and aesthetic characteristics. However, the material has a relatively high cost, so it is not practical to use it as a roofing covering for a barn.

How to inexpensively cover the outside of a shed: popular options

To cover frame wooden sheds with your own hands, you can use lining, wooden boards, OSB sheets or profiled sheets.

The most popular and cheapest option is to use unedged boards. They are dissolved into elements of the required size, which are used to make the outer cladding of the frame. However, over time, cracks form in such cladding, which can be closed with wooden planks. But it is better to do the sheathing with overlapping herringbone boards. With this technology, each subsequent row of boards is placed on the lower tier with its own edge.

OSB boards are a little more expensive, but easier to cut and install. It is important to arrange the elements so that their joints are in the center of the frame posts. This material does not deform under the influence of moisture and does not rot. However, to create additional protection and give the structure a more attractive appearance, the surface should be coated with paint.

To organize a cold warehouse, you can use a profiled sheet, the elements of which are attached to a wooden frame with self-tapping screws. The sheets should be overlapped by 15-20 cm. If the structure is used for keeping animals or as a workshop, the walls of the barn made of corrugated sheets are sheathed from the inside with insulating material.

A polycarbonate barn is being built for indoor poultry walking. The technology for installing honeycomb plastic is similar to installing OSB boards. Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws with a wide head and a sealing washer.

Budget-friendly and environmentally friendly options for frame cladding

One of the cheapest and most popular materials in rural areas is pressed straw blocks, which are also environmentally friendly. Such bricks are treated with a special compound that protects them from fire. They have good strength and ability to retain heat. Straw bricks fill the gaps in the wooden frame, so when constructing it, intermediate posts are installed.

The resulting timber barn walls are finished with clay plaster, which is applied to a steel mesh fixed on top of the straw. Thatched construction is characterized by minimal cost, and in terms of thermal characteristics it is superior to sheds made of cellular concrete and brick.

Another budget option is to use sawdust concrete. To do this, a smooth and durable formwork is constructed from OSB sheets, which is securely attached to the building frame. Next, layer-by-layer pouring of a mixture of sawdust and cement mortar is carried out in a ratio of 2:1.

You can make a cheap and at the same time environmentally friendly shed for domestic animals using a clay pot. This is a mixture of clay, wood and cement-sand mortar, which fills the voids in the frame of the structure. The result is a durable structure with high energy-saving performance.

DIY shed made of foam blocks: main advantages

For the construction of solid outbuildings, blocks of cellular gas or foam concrete are most often used. The main advantages of the material are:

• large size of products, which allows you to perform work quickly and conveniently;
• precise geometry, reducing the labor intensity of the process;
• light product weight of 11 kg;
• low thermal conductivity due to the porous structure of the material, which allows it to retain heat for a long time;
• increased frost resistance;
• good sound insulation properties;
• high hygroscopicity, which allows the material to breathe, removing water vapor outside, while preventing the possibility of mold and dampness in the room;
• non-flammability;
• flexibility of the product when sawing (due to the porous base);
• environmental friendliness of the material;
• low cost.

However, the material can be used for buildings no higher than 10 m, which is due to the limited strength of the material. Another drawback is the unattractive appearance of the products, which requires additional finishing of the walls of the barn for a summer residence with your own hands from foam blocks.

How to make a barn with your own hands from foam blocks

Before building a shed from foam blocks, a strip foundation is erected, the manufacturing technology of which is described above. The blocks are laid on a waterproofing material covering the base. In this case, you can use roofing felt or waterproofing material. To lay the blocks, you should prepare an adhesive mixture, which consists of sand and cement in a ratio of 1:3. The first row starts from the corner of the building and continues along its entire perimeter. The thickness of the seam between products should not exceed 30 mm. After laying the first row, the wall is checked for evenness using a level.

Helpful advice! To obtain a durable and strong structure, after every third row, reinforcement bars with a diameter of 80 mm are laid on the blocks.

The last row is covered with waterproofing material. Next is the creation of the barn roof. For a small building (no more than 3 m wide), a lean-to option is suitable. For do-it-yourself sheds 6 by 6 m, it is better to equip a gable roof, the installation description of which is given below.

Using metal pins, a mauerlat in the form of a wooden beam with a cross-section of 50x150 mm is attached to the top row of the masonry. The distance between the studs should not be more than 120 cm. Outer trusses are installed on the mauerlat, which form pediments. For ease of installation, the rafters are assembled on the ground and then raised for installation. All elements should be connected to each other using metal fasteners and overlays. The installed rafter structure is covered with a waterproofing membrane, on top of which the sheathing is placed. The selected roofing material is attached to it.

Next, you insulate the outer surface of the walls of the dacha building with your own hands using the selected material. Most often, foam boards are used, which are glued using a special compound. Slopes of windows and doors should be strengthened using aluminum angles. Next, the insulation is covered with an adhesive mass 3-4 mm thick, into which the reinforcing mesh is embedded. After the surface has completely dried, which occurs after 48 hours, the walls are plastered and painted. They can also be sheathed with siding or corrugated sheets, which will give the structure a more aesthetic appearance.

Other options for block material for building a shed

An alternative to foam concrete blocks is wood concrete. It is often used for the construction of utility rooms. The material is characterized by increased strength, high vapor permeability, low thermal conductivity, and resistance to rodents and mold. At the same time, in comparison with foam concrete, it is less fragile. The material has low frost resistance and moisture resistance.

To build a 3 by 3 m shed with your own hands, you can use brick. The material is reliable, moisture-resistant, fire-resistant, durable and resistant to rodents and mold. Having an attractive appearance, walls made of brick do not require subsequent cladding. However, brick has a high cost. Bricklaying is a labor-intensive process. In addition, the material is characterized by significant weight, which requires the construction of a reliable base, and this will entail additional costs.

To construct an outbuilding, you can use stone from a quarry, which is laid on a cement-sand mortar. Such a structure cannot be called warm, so it requires additional insulation from the inside with mineral wool. The outer surface of the walls can be covered with clapboard.

How to make a barn for your dacha from logs, beams or sleepers

You can build a barn with your own hands from logs or timber. The material is characterized by high thermal insulation properties, so it can be used to equip a workshop or place for year-round keeping of animals. The service life of the structure can reach 70 years. The assembly of the structure must be carried out by specialists to eliminate the possibility of errors and blunders in the work.

Important! Firewood should not be stored in a log or lumber shed because there is insufficient ventilation in the room to dry the heating oil.

For the construction of a building at the dacha, a beam with a cross section of 100x100 mm or 150x150 mm is suitable. The elements are laid on a strip or column foundation. The first crown is treated with an antiseptic. The bars are cut to half the width of the product, which ensures good grip. The length of the elements must match the width of the wall. In logs, recesses are made in the shape of a semicircle or angle along the entire length. Between the rows it is necessary to lay a layer of insulating material. Tow or jute is used for this. To ensure structural strength, the crowns must be connected to each other with dowels, which is clearly shown in the photo of barns made of timber.

The shed can be made from old wooden sleepers. Such a structure will be solid and durable. The walls are built by stacking sleepers on top of each other. In the corners, the elements are tied using steel staples, which are driven into the upper edges of the beams, connecting the joined crowns. Along the perimeter, staples are driven into the side faces of the elements.

There is another installation option. To do this, one part of the sleepers is dug into the ground along the perimeter of the building. The remaining elements are cut at the ends with a chainsaw so as to form a spike. A groove is formed on the pillars by hammering two beams onto the sleepers. Next, sleepers are inserted into the prepared grooves. The elements are fixed together using staples.

Prefabricated barn for a summer residence: design features

A prefabricated shed is made from individual elements according to the principle of a designer. The cost of such a structure will exceed the costs required for the construction of a frame or block structure. The buildings are characterized by mobility and high speed of construction. A do-it-yourself prefabricated shed (photos clearly demonstrate the different options) can be made on the basis of:

• sandwich panels;
• SIP panels;
• plastic panels.

SIP panels consist of two layers of wood, between which insulation is placed. Sandwich panels have the same structure, only metal sheets are located on the sides of the insulating material.

The first stage of assembling the structure involves creating a frame. Then standard elements specially made for a specific construction option are attached to it. The assembly of the structure is carried out on the basis of detailed instructions with a drawing.

SIP panels can be made independently. For this you will need OSB boards, foam plastic, glue and wooden beams. Assembly takes place according to the “sandwich” principle. An adhesive composition is applied to the OSB sheet laid flat. Foam plastic is laid on it in such a way that there is free space along the contour of the product for the joining beam. Glue is applied to the insulation, and then the second sheet is laid. The load is distributed evenly over the entire area on top of the resulting structure.

Plastic shed for a summer residence: characteristics of the structure

This beautiful shed is made from frost-resistant composite plastic, which is characterized by strength, wear resistance, reliability and practicality. The material is resistant to sunlight, moisture, is not subject to corrosion and attack by harmful insects, and mold and mildew do not form on it. Despite its light weight, such a structure can withstand constant and long-term loads. For a long service life, plastic, unlike wood, does not need to be treated with special compounds. If used correctly, such a building will last at least 15 years.

The roof ridge is made of transparent material, making the room light during the day. The design is characterized by passive ventilation, which ensures the unimpeded movement of air masses inside the barn, so that the air does not stagnate and the room remains dry. The service life of the structure is about 25 years. The plastic structure is suitable for creating a workshop or storage area for garden tools. It is not recommended to use this building for keeping animals, due to its small area and lack of insulation.

Modern models of plastic sheds for summer cottages - the photos clearly confirm this - attract attention with their neat and stylish appearance. Such a shed can become a real decoration of a summer cottage. This design can be assembled without outside help in 2 hours. The work is carried out without the use of additional fasteners, complex tools or welding. There is no need to build a foundation for this structure. The object is mobile, which makes it possible to transport the structure to a new location.

Helpful advice! You should not move a plastic shed frequently, as its fastenings will become loose, as a result of which the structure will lose its proper strength and reliability.

Ready-made shed in the form of a container: compact and functional structure

Today you can purchase a ready-made metal shed for a container-type garden. The basis of such a monoblock structure is a rigid metal frame, sheathed on the sides with metal with an insulating layer where the electrical wiring is laid. This shed looks like a container.

The internal contents of different models may vary significantly. There are models with shelves in a barn, which resembles a pantry. Some designs are equipped with a canopy to create an open terrace. It is possible to purchase a ready-made shed for a summer residence with a toilet and shower. Multifunctional containers are recommended to be used as a small country house while the main building is being built. The container can be sold later.

Installation of the finished structure does not require the construction of a foundation. It can be placed on a concrete slab. The container is delivered ready-made and installed using a truck crane. Such sheds have a high cost and not very attractive appearance, which is compensated by the durability and practicality of the structure.

Animal sheds: design features and requirements for them

Animal sheds belong to a separate category of outbuildings, which are subject to special requirements. The building for domestic animals should be well ventilated. This is primarily due to the large amount of animal droppings located indoors. It is chemically active and releases ammonia. The consistency of droppings and the speed at which they dry out vary for different animal species. The barn can be additionally equipped with a place for storing litter and manure, which are valuable fertilizers.

The location of the livestock shed on the site is strictly regulated by regulatory documentation. The structure must withstand significant loads and mechanical stress. This especially applies to cowsheds. You should also take into account that some species of animals like to chew wood. Therefore, you should not build a shed from wood additionally impregnated with bactericidal and water-repellent compounds, which can be destructive for some species of animals.

For chickens, the building must be made of chemical-resistant material and equipped with good ventilation. For pigs, a prefabricated wooden barn with a reinforced frame is suitable. A wooden shed is not advisable for goats. The barn should be warm and secure. It can be done on a strip foundation made of block material with subsequent insulation.

A barn in a country house is an indispensable multifunctional structure that can be built from any building material. The installation technology directly depends on the purpose of the building, its size and the financial capabilities of the owners. To build a shed in a country house, the price of which will depend on the type of building, it is important to use high-quality material and follow the algorithm of actions when constructing a structure of the chosen type. If you have good financial resources, you can purchase a ready-made mobile shed for a turnkey summer cottage in the form of a container or a set of structural parts for self-assembly.

Video “How to build a shed cheaply with your own hands”