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How to tear a toilet off the floor. Do-it-yourself toilet dismantling using different mounting methods. Removing old plumbing fixtures

Someday you will definitely face the problem of dismantling the toilet. After all, like all communications in the house, plumbing must always remain in good working order. But time is merciless with such things. Therefore, even cosmetic renovations in an apartment require replacing all elements of the bathroom and restroom. Before installing a new toilet, you need to dismantle the old plumbing fixture. This activity is not the most pleasant, but, nevertheless, quite simple, not long and completely doable with your own hands.

Dismantling the toilet

Removing a toilet and installing a temporary plumbing fixture is not such a difficult task, as you noticed. After familiarizing yourself with the theory presented in our article, a video about dismantling the toilet will answer the remaining questions.

Preparatory work

Dismantling and replacing a toilet that has served its useful life is necessary to provide comfortable conditions for residents of a city apartment or country house. Before work, it is recommended to stock up on all the necessary tools. You may need keys of different sizes and a crowbar during the work. It's also a good idea to have pliers on hand. To get rid of residual water, you should save a lot of rags.

All operations related to dismantling the toilet with your own hands must be performed with rubber gloves to protect the skin of your hands from microtrauma and bacteria. Before starting work, it is advisable to thoroughly wash the toilet and treat it with some kind of disinfectant, for example, chlorine solution, because it is still a breeding ground for harmful microorganisms. You can rinse the toilet with running water with an antiseptic dissolved in it - ordinary “Whiteness”, which is quite suitable for these purposes.

After this, the space in the work area should be cleared of all objects present; everything should be removed, even the rugs. It is customary to begin dismantling plumbing by turning off the cold water in the supply pipeline. The water that remains in the tank must be drained, and it is also worth ensuring that the sewer system is completely inactive - you should not use the water yourself, but you should also warn your neighbors above to refrain from water procedures for a while. After making sure that the supply channel is securely blocked, you can begin to remove the toilet.

Freeing the toilet base

You should start by disconnecting the flexible hose that supplies water from the pipe. The next step is to dismantle the tank, because it will be more difficult to physically remove the toilet along with the tank. Drain the last of the water, unscrew the nuts securing the tank, which are located on the back side of the structure, and open the lid. If the tank hangs on the wall on hinges, you can remove it without opening it.

Next you need to clear the base. If the tiles around your toilet are beautifully laid, you will have to knock them out. The toilet is attached to the floor in two or four places in the lower part of the bowl. There is either a nut connection of the toilet bowl with studs, which is built into the floor, or a bowl, which is screwed with dowels having hexagonal heads. But in any case, the fastening must be unscrewed with a wrench of a certain size.

When fastening with studs, you need to slightly lift the base and lightly rock the seal in the drainage pipe to loosen it. If the pipe socket was sealed using cement mortar, it is recommended to chip off this mortar using a chisel before removing the base.

It is better to use a thin chisel, breaking off the cement with extreme caution with light blows - the tip of the chisel is usually directed across the coating, otherwise the pipe socket or toilet outlet may burst. As soon as the coating cracks on one side, a similar operation will need to be done on the opposite side of the outlet. You should pick out the fragments and try to remove the toilet from the drain pipe. If this does not work, it is recommended to repeat the cement chipping.

However, if you got the most difficult option, which involves attaching the base to a wooden board, then in this case dismantling the toilet will be traumatic for the plumbing. You will simply have to beat off the bottom so that the fasteners remain in the floor along with the base, then it should be taken out piece by piece when the work is finished.

Removing the toilet from the sewer pipe

As a rule, old plumbing fixtures are thrown away, so there is no need to feel sorry for them. To avoid injury from pieces of tile while working, it is recommended to carefully follow safety precautions - use safety glasses and gloves. Now the toilet is connected exclusively to the cast iron sewer pipe, and it can be disconnected from it in several ways. These methods carry varying degrees of destruction. Accordingly, the price of dismantling is different if you order the service from specialists.

Before removing the toilet, it is recommended to make a special plug, which is a rag gag that is about 100 millimeters in diameter. This plug must be used to plug the hole in the drain pipe, thereby preventing sewer gases from entering the apartment.

The first method is destruction. Using this method, you should remove the outlet, remove the toilet, and then simply clean the socket of any remaining mortar and ceramics. You can break off the outlet in a situation where the toilet is no longer attached to the floor, by clearing the mortar between the outlet and the pipe as much as possible, lift it and pull it up. All that remains is to knock out the remains from the pipe without damaging it sewer pipe. Try not to clog the drain with fragments; it is better to plug the hole with something.

A more humane method may be chosen if attempts are made to maintain integrity. It is necessary to clean the junction of the sewer pipe and the toilet from sealant, mortar and other impurities down to the smallest residues. Lift the product and see how freely it begins to move in the pipe. Slowly turning and rocking the outlet, you need to pull it out of the pipe, simultaneously clearing the passage of the solution. If you managed to get the toilet, then you need to clean the pipe for future installation.

And it also happens that when the turn comes to the bathroom, the owners there are greeted by a gloomy product that was installed conscientiously decades ago, since the construction of the house. Then dismantling and installing the toilet will become quite a troublesome task, but if you do it yourself, you will certainly understand its design, and repairs will no longer cause you problems in the future.

The most difficult option is rightfully to dismantle the Soviet toilet, because the design is very unique, and the device was secured in such a way that it is almost impossible to tear it out. Therefore, you will most likely not be able to keep it intact. Inspect the floor near the toilet, assessing the method of fastening.

The next problem that occurs when dismantling a Soviet toilet, especially if your plans include reusing the toilet, for example, in the country, is how to disconnect the outlet from the sewer. During the construction and installation of communications in Soviet time First-class tightness was achieved, with rare exceptions. The joints were covered with mortar so deeply that today it is impossible to knock it down carefully without damaging the sewer pipe or outlet.

Installation of a temporary toilet

During renovations in the bathroom, you can install a temporary toilet with your own hands. In this case, it is not at all necessary to resort to the help of specialists or strangers. In addition, you will need a minimum supply of tools. It is better to install a temporary toilet without a flush tank. It would also be superfluous to connect the temporary toilet to the water supply. In this case, it is recommended to flush the system by pouring water previously collected in a bucket.

To ensure the stability of the plumbing fixture, it is customary to install a shield underneath it or place a piece of chipboard measuring 500 by 500, securing it through the mounting holes of the toilet with self-tapping screws and washers. It is better to buy self-tapping screws with a hex head of the required length. If there is a need to prevent them from protruding from the bottom of the shield, long screws can be trimmed with a grinder.

It is convenient to connect the temporary toilet to the sewer system using corrugated pipes. This design allows you to quickly remove the plumbing fixtures to another place, literally in a minute, and also quickly put the toilet back. To ensure that the surface of the toilet gets dirty as little as possible during repairs, wrap the outside of it in cellophane and secure it with tape, which should only be glued to cellophane, because it will be difficult to remove its remains from the body. It is advisable to cover the entire assembled structure with a piece of chipboard or plywood in order to protect it from debris, mortar, dust or accidentally dropped tools.

Attaching a new toilet

To install a new toilet, including an ideal standard wall-hung toilet, in addition to the toilet itself, you need to have 3 more important parts on hand: a corrugated pipe approximately 15 centimeters in diameter, an eccentric and fasteners. Everything is clear with the fasteners, a corrugated pipe is used instead of the old one that goes to the collector, and an eccentric is used to connect the corrugation to the toilet.

There are three main methods of attaching a plumbing fixture to the floor:

  1. Fastening with dowels.
  2. Fastening to taffeta - a wooden board that is recessed into the floor recess. Taffeta should be made from well-oiled wood, for example oak. After installing the taffeta, it is customary to fasten the toilet with ordinary self-tapping screws.
  3. Fixing the toilet using epoxy glue. It is necessary to apply a layer of resin to the supporting surface, the thickness of which should be approximately 5 millimeters, and then press the toilet to the floor.

Fastening the toilet with dowels

Before installing the toilet, it is strongly recommended that you understand the mounting. If the placement of the bolts of the old fastening coincides with the new one, then you can install the new toilet in the same place. The holes for the dowels should not be too large, which in turn should not fall through, but in any case they should not be smaller than the required size; there is no need to force the dowel in. If the fasteners are cracked or otherwise damaged, this will reduce the stability of the toilet.

When moving the toilet, you need to find the most suitable placement for it in the room, and it is also worth remembering that the corrugated pipe must connect to the sewer socket without any obstacles. Using corrugation, if necessary, you can independently determine the connection angle and the required distance from the pipe to the walls.

Having found the best place for installation, you need to outline the outline of the mounting plate of the plumbing fixture with a felt-tip pen or pencil, and you also need to mark the mounting holes for the dowels. Having moved the toilet, you should drill with a diamond drill the mounting holes that were marked earlier.

Drilling tiles is considered the most difficult job. You need to drill with impact drilling with a drill, but it is recommended to drill the top layer without impact, and then you can do impacts. The main thing is to drill with virtually no pressure on the drill; it will perform the impact functions itself. A hammer drill is not considered the appropriate equipment for this type of work, but once you get through the tiles, a hammer drill can be used.

Attaching the toilet to taffeta

Before starting work, it is worth preparing the holes for the toilet. If the toilet outlets fit the standard holes, this is good, but when this is not the case, it is recommended to use special nozzles included with the plumbing fixture.

Internal toilet mounting

Toilet mounting can be internal or external. However, along with this, internal fastening is considered more common. It is necessary to install the toilet and mark the markings. On the inside of the tile, you should mark the place of fastening, after which you need to mark the place of drilling for fastenings, which are secured to the floor with bolts.

The next step is to drill a hole for mounting the plumbing fixture. The principles of drilling are similar to those described above. To prevent the drill from moving to the sides during drilling, you need to make chips in the previously marked places; for this you will need a hammer and a core.

Insert dowels into the prepared holes and install the toilet in such a way that the mounting holes coincide with the dowels. Don't forget to install a gasket before fastening. If it is missing, you need to squeeze out silicone around the entire perimeter from the inside of the contour outlined on the floor. Silicone, however, will not be superfluous even when there is a gasket.

During installation, the applied silicone will fill the unevenness and gaps between the floor and the toilet, and will also block the access of dust and water under the toilet. And this, in turn, means that germs and mold will not multiply there. It also prevents rusting of the toilet fasteners, which you can easily unscrew after many years.

Then you need to insert screws with washers into the holes in the seating heel of the plumbing fixture, and accordingly screw them tightly into the dowels, but you should not over-tighten them to avoid damaging the toilet. It is recommended to tighten the fasteners alternately diagonally so that the toilet does not warp.

Next, you should connect the outlet of the plumbing fixture to the sewer neck. Immediately before installing the corrugated hose, you need to lubricate it on the sewer side with silicone. It is not necessary to lubricate the toilet side, but it won’t do any harm.

Tank installation

After the work has been done, you can begin installing the tank. Be sure to insert a sealing washer between the toilet and the tank, and the tank itself must be secured with 2 stainless bolts. It is also worth placing sealing gaskets under the bolts on the side of the tank.

Installation of all parts of the majority modern models toilets, water supply and tank connection are carried out practically without the use of tools. The only thing you need is an adjustable wrench, which is designed to tighten the mounting nuts and connect the water hose. Do not use tools such as pliers and a hammer.

Water supply

Water is supplied to the toilet using a flexible hose. It is customary to tighten the nuts by hand and only when this does not work, tighten them half a turn with a wrench. In flexible hose connections, silicone or rubber washers are used as a seal. Under no circumstances should you use a sealing wrap, because its use may cause leakage.

It is very important not to allow excessive tension on the hose; it should always be with a reserve. After connecting the water to the toilet, you need to flush it a little to clean the system from silicone residues and debris that will cause harm to the flush mechanism.

Water can be supplied using a flexible hose made of metal-plastic or a copper tube. These are the most reliable materials that can increase the service life of such eyeliner significantly. After installing the toilet, it is recommended not to use it for at least four hours to allow the silicone to completely harden.

But it’s better not to use the toilet for at least six hours so that the silicone adheres as best as possible, but in general you need to look at the circumstances. And finally, advice - when sealing corrugations with a sewer pipe, do not skimp on silicone; it is usually applied in such a way that it does not fall inside the pipe.

Now you have figured out how to remove the old plumbing fixture and install a new one. Moreover, dismantling and installing a toilet requires unquestioning compliance with hygiene and safety requirements, so be sure to wear safety glasses and gloves! And work extremely carefully if you want to use the old toilet later in your dacha or install it in its original place after renovating the bathroom. During work, it is advisable to install a temporary toilet.

In this article we will figure out how to dismantle the toilet with your own hands, if possible without causing any damage to it.

We will analyze two main scenarios: for a toilet that is installed on standard fasteners, with screws to the floor; and for a toilet that is simply mounted on adhesive mastic. It is this method of fastening that installation organizations often use when commissioning a new house.

To make a repair, you first have to destroy something.

The toilet is secured with screws

How to dismantle the toilet in this case?

  1. Inspect the toilet outlet connection to . The worst case for us is if the outlet is covered with cement mortar in a cast iron pipe.
    Then you will have to arm yourself with a narrow chisel and a hammer and spend from 15 minutes to half an hour carefully breaking the putty and removing it from the socket.
    If there is a rubber cuff there, the toilet can be easily removed from the outlet. If the connection is sealed with silicone sealant, first cut it with a sharp knife.
  2. Remove the decorative caps and unscrew the mounting screws. You will need an adjustable wrench, pliers or a Phillips screwdriver.
  3. If the toilet is still standing rigidly and motionlessly, there may be putty around the edges of the base that is holding it in place. A light strike with the palm from the front, directed backwards and from bottom to top - and now the toilet is moving. It can be removed.

Attention: if the outlet was covered with cement, be careful.

In order not to break the outlet, you will have to rock the toilet from side to side, getting rid of any remaining putty, and pull it out strictly in the direction of the sewer outlet.

  1. When you install a new set of toilet bowl and cistern, the dismantling and installation of the toilet bowl must be accompanied by cleaning the outlet from any remaining putty and other debris.
    The site, of course, should also be cleaned of mortar residues and other irregularities.

Here we see the simplest case - fastening with screws and a rubber cuff in a plastic pipe

A special case

In houses whose construction dates back to the middle of the last century, you can see an unusual way of attaching the toilet. A thick board is laid in the floor, to which the toilet is screwed with screws.

The board, as a rule, appears completely rotten and the toilet bowl is wobbly. The very idea, with which it was easy to remove, was sound; however, according to SNiPs of the middle of the last century, oak boards were supposed to be used. Oak doesn't rot.

But birch, pine and larch, which can most often be seen as such boards, do not like dampness. In half a century they turn into dust.

Installing and dismantling the toilet in this case involves another operation: the board is removed from the floor, the recess is thoroughly cleaned of debris and filled with concrete. After it hardens, a new toilet is installed.

Advice: as an option, it is placed directly on the fresh mortar, without screws, and glued to it with the base.

In this case, you do not need to suffer without a toilet for a week while the solution hardens.


The toilet is attached with glue or cement

Dismantling the old toilet in this case is faster and easier, but leaves less chance of removing it intact. Almost always, the toilet not only stands on adhesive mastic or cement, but is also cemented with an outlet in the sewer socket.

Method 1. For the shy

  1. Again, we take a narrow chisel or a strong screwdriver and, bending behind the toilet, carefully try to remove the maximum amount of putty from the sewer socket.
    If it is desirable to remove the toilet intact, do not rush and do not put much effort.
  2. Then, using a wide chisel or chisel, we carefully try to pry off the toilet bowl one by one from all sides. We are looking for weakness.
    Using light blows, we drive the chisel under the base of the toilet, wedging its base with the floor. Sooner or later he will give up. However, there is a non-zero chance of breaking off a piece of the base.

Method 2. For experienced

If possible, free the outlet from putty or sealant. This is key: it is the release that will be the weak point during dismantling.


The main thing is to remove the putty if possible.

Then we simply kick the toilet from the front a couple of times, aiming the kick slightly from bottom to top. In this case, it is better to hold it from above: if you are too determined, the release will break off.

What is curious: such dismantling of the old toilet leaves it more likely to remain intact. The base never cracks; release - no more often than in the first case.

Method 3. For the lucky ones

If the toilet is connected to plastic pipe any way - you're lucky. If between, you hit the jackpot.

The entire operation of dismantling the old toilet will take a matter of seconds.

  1. Make sure there is nothing holding the toilet. There are no screws between the base and the floor, the tank has been removed, and the toilet does not rest against the wall. It is held in place only by glue or mortar.
  2. After asking your partner to hold the toilet so it doesn't fly off and smash against the wall, kick it in the same way as in the scenario described above. One or two kicks - and the toilet is separated from the floor and stands in front of you absolutely intact.

Conclusion

As you can see, dismantling the toilet with your own hands will not cause any difficulties even for a person who has no experience with plumbing. Good luck with the renovation!

Surely every owner has thought about updating the interior of a house or apartment. In particular, this applies to the bathroom. When carrying out major renovations, owners often encounter problems with dismantling old plumbing. Dismantling and installing a toilet is a very difficult task. However, anyone can do this kind of work with minimal experience and tools. Later in the article we will look in detail at how to dismantle an old toilet with your own hands.

Preparation

First we need to prepare the work area. To do this, remove all rugs and shelves from the bathroom. Make sure there are no fragile parts nearby. We will also need working tools, namely:

  • pliers;
  • hammer;
  • chisel;
  • hacksaw for metal;
  • wrench;
  • stationery knife.

Additionally, you will need a basin, rubber gloves, safety glasses and rags.

Before dismantling the toilet with your own hands, you need to turn off the water in the riser. Next, all the liquid from the tank is drained into a basin.

Phased dismantling

First you need to remove the toilet seat. This can be done using a wrench. Then the lid and support are removed from the tank. Next you need to find the elements that secure the tank to the wall. Typically the element is secured with bolts or nuts. They should be unscrewed using a tool.

What to do if the bolts are rusty?

Please note that fasteners may rust. IN in this case For dismantling, use a hacksaw. We cut off the necessary bolts and move on to the next stage.

We continue work

When cutting off the last nut, try not to break the tank - call an assistant to hold part of the toilet. Next you need to disconnect the pipes that are supplied to it. To do this, use an adjustable wrench. Pay attention to the way the toilet is mounted. It is usually installed to the floor with bolts and sealant. Using a sharp blade (you can use a utility knife), we cut the sealant.

Next, unscrew the bolts. If they are also rusty, we use the same method with a hacksaw. Then slightly raise the toilet. You need to move it relative to the main sewer pipe. Next, we proceed to dismantling the bell. To do this, you need to slightly scroll it and shake it in different directions. Often it is immediately disconnected after dismantling the corrugation.

When dismantling the toilet, try not to contaminate the sewer drain pipe. If debris gets in there, it can cause serious blockage in the system.

After this, drain the remaining water from the siphon. To do this, lift the edge of the toilet. Next, install the container and plug the pipe pipe with a rag. If this is not done, the smell of sewage will spread throughout the apartment. This completes the dismantling of the toilet.

Installation

Installation should be done only after finishing work has been completed, that is, on tiles or on a flat, cemented surface. Installation begins by connecting the device to the sewer. For this purpose, a corrugated outlet is used.

It is better to purchase a new element - it is unlikely to work with the old toilet. Next, a rubber seal is put on the toilet outlet pipe. The latter is pre-moistened in water. Then the toilet is installed in the chosen place and the second end of the corrugation is attached to the sewer pipe.

At the base of any modern toilet there are mounting lugs. Through them, using a marker or pencil, marks are made on the floor. Disconnect the corrugation from the sewer outlet and move the toilet to the side. This will free up space for drilling holes in the marked places. During the work we will need a hammer drill. The diameter of the hole must correspond to the plugs that come with the toilet mounting kit. You will also need special drills with pobedit tips. They are suitable for working with concrete and tiles.

Next, the toilet is returned to its original place. It is necessary to align the holes made with the factory ears. Fastening is carried out with bolts or using long screws with a hex head. Pay attention to the tightening torque. It is important not to overdo it so as not to deform the ceramic floor tiles.

The final stage of installation is to seal all joints where the toilet comes into contact with the floor.

If the toilet has no ears

There are also such plumbing fixtures. In this case, installation is carried out using epoxy adhesive or cement mortar. But in order for the connection to be of high quality, it is necessary to ensure maximum cleanliness of the surface. For this floor, all dirt and dust are removed.

We fix the drain tank

So, the main part of the toilet has already been installed. All that remains is to secure the drain tank and connect it to the water supply. To do this, we use two bolts and a rubber gasket. The latter is put on the outlet side of the cistern. Long bolts with washers are installed in special holes. Next, the tank is installed in its place.

It is necessary to align all the holes, namely two mounting holes and one drain hole. The bolts are tightened from below with plastic nuts with so-called wings (metal “turnkey” ones will not work, otherwise the element may be damaged). One hand is enough to ensure a tight connection.

Connection to water supply

Now you need to connect the toilet tank to the water supply system. To do this, use a flexible hose with nuts at both ends. You can see what this element looks like in the photo in the article.

It is important to ensure maximum tightness. For better sealing, you should use FUM tape, but sometimes rubber gaskets are included with the hoses.

At this point, installation and dismantling of the toilet has been successfully completed. After which you can turn on the water supply system. The plumbing will be fully usable after the sealant has completely dried.

Conclusion

So, we found out how to install and dismantle a toilet. As you can see, all the work can be done with your own hands. When dismantling the toilet, try not to break the tank - it is very heavy and flimsy. The help of a second person will not be superfluous. Also, do not move the toilet yourself. The weight of a ceramic product can reach thirty kilograms.

Today we will talk about how to properly remove an old toilet before installing a new one.

How to remove a toilet

First of all, you need to determine how you have it installed. If the old toilet is installed on top of the tiles, then there should be no problems with dismantling. Unscrew the fastening bolts, use a knife to cut through the glue or sealant at the junction of the toilet with the floor and undermine it.

It will be worse if the old toilet is installed on a board, and besides, it is walled into the floor. This is how toilets were installed before, when there were no hammer drills.


Let's look at the old toilet mounting diagram.


  1. Mounting screws. They rot completely due to time and moisture.
  2. Board filled with concrete.
  3. Concrete screed on the floor.
  4. Nails driven into the board for better adhesion to concrete.

With this method of installing a toilet, you cannot do without a hammer and a hammer drill.

Dismantling the toilet

Now let's determine how the toilet is connected to the sewer. If the connection is made using a corrugated pipe, then you are in luck. With this connection method, it is even possible to save the old toilet.


It is also easy to remove a toilet connected to plastic sewer pipes.
It is most difficult to dismantle a toilet when it is connected to a cast iron sewer.


How to dismantle a toilet

This means that you have decided that your toilet cannot be taken at a swoop. It is deeply immured in the screed, the outlet is covered with cement in a cast iron pipe. In this case, you will have to act harshly.
We put gloves on our hands and glasses on our eyes. GLASSES MANDATORY! Take a hammer, 500 grams and go ahead. No, stand. Don't go ahead. First, take a sponge and soak up all the water from the toilet. Be prepared for an unpleasant smell from the sewer.
Yes, by the way, it is assumed that the drain tank is disconnected and removed. I won’t write now how to remove the tanks. This needs to be dedicated to a separate article. There are too many types of tanks and methods for attaching them.
So, we take a hammer and start hitting the toilet. Our main task is not to damage the sewer. Therefore, first we break the toilet outlet.


Well, then we hit the toilet bowl itself. We break it down, clean it up, take out the trash. The result should be a picture like this.


How to remove a toilet with your own hands

The next step in dismantling the toilet is cleaning the sewer pipe. Take a hammer, chisel or old chisel and carefully clean the inside of the pipe.


Attention! Make sure that the fragments do not fall into the sewer. You can plug the pipe with a rag. A MUST FOR EVERYONE! Tie it with wire or rope to prevent it from falling into the sewer. And then incidents happened.
After using a chisel, it is advisable to clean the inside of the cast iron socket with coarse sandpaper.
We fight the unpleasant smell from the sewer. You can put a plastic bag on the pipe and wrap it around the pipe with electrical tape.

Removing an old toilet

Now we have to seal the floor before installing the new toilet. For this we use cement mortar or self-leveling mixture. I do not recommend using tile adhesive. Firstly, it will take a long time to harden. Secondly, glue is, first and foremost, glue. They stick to it. They don't use concrete.


Now we just have to wait for the solution to harden. And you can install a new toilet.
As practice shows, the main problem when performing such work is the lack of a toilet. The old one is broken, the new toilet has not been installed. The solution takes a long time to cool. How to use the toilet? In principle, you can use a new toilet. While the solution hardens, we construct some kind of podium from several boards. By raising the toilet above the floor in this way and connecting it with a corrugated pipe to the sewer, we obtain a temporary solution to the problem. Uncomfortable? Yes. But, no need to ask your neighbors.

Since all plumbing in an apartment or house must always remain in working order, it must be changed periodically. Therefore, in any case, you will have to face the problem of dismantling the toilet before installing a new one. It is possible to do this with your own hands. Removing a toilet is not a pleasant job, but it is done quite quickly and easily. Dismantling a toilet includes the following stages: the preparatory stage, freeing the base of the toilet from the floor, dismantling the toilet from the sewer system and installing a temporary plumbing fixture.

Dismantling of an old toilet must be done with extreme care, without damaging the sewer system, as well as existing repairs.

Preparatory work before removing the toilet

Removing a toilet and attaching a temporary plumbing fixture is not as difficult a task as it might seem. In order to dismantle the toilet before its subsequent replacement, you need to stock up on the following materials and tools:

  • crowbar;
  • wrenches of different sizes;
  • pliers;
  • rags needed to get rid of residual water;
  • latex gloves;
  • disinfectant.

When dismantling the toilet, be sure to wear rubber gloves; this will help you avoid microtraumas and infections. Before starting work, the plumbing fixture must be thoroughly washed and treated with a disinfectant, for example, a chlorine solution. It can be rinsed with water with an antiseptic dissolved in it - ordinary chlorine-containing bleach.

After this, the workspace must be cleared of all foreign objects, everything should be removed, even rugs.

Removal of plumbing should begin by shutting off the cold water in the supply pipeline. The remaining water in the tank must be drained and the sewer system rendered inactive. You should not use water yourself, and you should also warn your neighbors above so that they refrain from water procedures for a while. After making sure that the supply valve is shut off securely, you can begin work.

Freeing the toilet base

Diagram of a compact toilet with dimensions.

Work begins by disconnecting the flexible water supply hose. Then you will need to dismantle the flush tank, because removing the toilet together with the tank will be quite problematic. To do this, drain the remaining water, unscrew the fastening nuts located on the back of the structure, and open the lid. The tank, hanging on hinges on the wall, can be removed without opening it.

Next you need to clear the base. If your bathroom has beautifully laid tiles, you will have to knock them out. The toilet is attached to the floor in two or four places at the bottom. The connection can be a nut connection, when the device is mounted into the floor using studs, or using dowels with hexagonal heads. However, in both cases, the fastener will be unscrewed with a wrench of the required size.

When connecting with studs, slightly lift the base and, with light rocking movements, loosen the seal in the sewer outlet pipe. If the socket seal was made using cement mortar, it must be chipped using a chisel before removal. It is best to use a thin chisel, breaking off the cement very carefully, with light blows - the tip of the chisel should be directed across the coating, otherwise the toilet outlet or pipe socket may be damaged. As soon as the coating cracks on one side, the same operation will need to be done on the other side of the outlet. They pick out the fragments and try to get the toilet bowl out of the pipe. If this does not work, you need to continue chipping the cement.

If you are faced with such a complex mounting option as fixing the toilet on a wooden board, then dismantling the plumbing can lead to damage. The bottom will simply have to be beaten off. The fastenings will remain in the floor along with the base, which will be removed in parts after the work is completed.

Old plumbing fixtures are usually thrown away; you shouldn’t feel sorry for them.

To avoid injury during work, carefully follow all safety precautions - use gloves and safety glasses.

Freeing the toilet from the sewer pipe

Scheme of the arrangement of drain tanks.

The toilet is now connected only to the cast iron sewer pipe, and it can be disconnected in several ways. These methods have different degrees of damage caused. Before removing the device, it is recommended to make a plug that looks like a rag gag, about 10 cm in diameter. She will need to plug the hole in the sewer pipe, thereby preventing sewer gases from escaping into the apartment.

The first way is destruction. According to this method, you will need to remove the outlet, take out the toilet and simply clean the pipe of any remaining ceramics and mortar. The outlet can be broken off if the device is no longer attached to the floor; in this case, it is necessary to clean the connection between the outlet and the pipe as much as possible from the cement mortar. The toilet is lifted and pulled up. All that remains is to clean the sewer pipe of any residue, being careful not to damage it. The sewer pipe must be protected from clogging with fragments; it is better to plug the hole with something.

You can choose a less destructive method if you are trying to keep your plumbing intact. The joint between the sewer pipe and the toilet must be cleaned of mortar, sealant and other impurities, removing even the smallest residues. Lift the product and determine how freely it moves in the pipe. Slowly loosening and turning the outlet, it is necessary to pull it out of the socket, while clearing it of the solution. The pipe needs to be cleaned for upcoming installation.

Removing an old style toilet

It also happens that you buy an apartment and, when you go into the bathroom, you see an old toilet there, well installed thirty years ago during the construction of the house. Then removing the old device and installing a new one will bring you a lot of problems. However, if you do it yourself, you will definitely be able to understand its design and repairs will not cause you trouble in the future.

Dismantling a Soviet toilet can be considered the most difficult option. This design is quite unique; this device was fixed in such a way that it was almost impossible to remove. Therefore, you will not be able to keep it intact. Inspect the floor near it and evaluate the type of fastening.

The next problem that often arises when dismantling Soviet toilets (especially if you are going to reuse the toilet, for example, by installing it in the country), is disconnecting the outlet from the sewer. When building houses and laying communications in Soviet times, everything was done as hermetically as possible. The joints were covered with cement so deeply that it is currently impossible to knock it down carefully without damaging the sewer pipe or outlet.

Installing a temporary toilet

During renovations, a temporary toilet can be installed in the toilet. At the same time, it is not at all necessary to resort to the help of professionals; you can do it yourself. You will need the bare minimum set of tools and materials:

  • toilet;
  • self-tapping screws with washers;
  • spanners;
  • screwdrivers.

A temporary toilet is usually installed without a cistern. It will also be superfluous to connect it to the water supply. In this case, flushing into the sewer will be carried out by pouring the water collected into a bucket. For greater stability of the plumbing fixture, place a shield or piece of chipboard measuring 50 by 50 cm under it, securing it through the holes in the base of the toilet with self-tapping screws and washers. You need to purchase self-tapping screws of the required length with hexagonal heads. If necessary, long screws are trimmed with a grinder.

The temporary toilet is connected using corrugations. This design makes it possible to quickly move the plumbing to another place, in almost a minute, and just as quickly put it in place. To make the toilet less dirty during repairs, you need to wrap it in polyethylene and secure the film with tape, which should only be glued to polyethylene, since it will be quite difficult to remove the glue from the body. The top of the structure must be covered with a piece of plywood or chipboard.