Ojos del Salado. The summit or how it happens when you forget the word “impossible”. January 8th, 2014

Bye New Year I haven’t fully arrived yet, I’m finishing everything I started last year. Therefore, with heroic efforts, I am finishing the story about climbing the highest volcano in the world - Ojos del Salado.

Acclimatization went neither shaky nor slow. That is, no way. After spending one night in the Atacama camp at 5200 and walking to the Tejos assault camp at 5850, Mario and I went to spend the night at 4600 in the Murray hut so that I could recover a little.

The night in the hut was not in vain. In the morning I was cheerful and cheerful and again ready for exploits.
Therefore, early in the morning, right after breakfast, I began to terrorize Mario on the topic “it’s time for us to go up and prepare for the ascent.”
It was the fourth day since we left the city. There were a maximum of two or three days left, after which I had to come to the hospital to check what had happened to my arm.
So I beat my hoof impatiently.

At that moment, Mario had already finally realized that it was better not to argue with crazy people. And we again went to the Atacama camp.

The weather was not good. However, everything was according to the forecast. And according to the forecast for that day, very strong winds were expected. Typically, strong winds were expected every other day. But between these two days a calm was expected.

Less than an hour passed before we arrived at Atacama. This time, besides us, there was a large group of Germans in the camp.
These people are very positive. They travel around Chile, climb volcanoes, and Ojos - well, it will work out well, it won’t work out - well... Such a pleasant mood. When people travel and have fun, and do not crave some kind of exploits.

We sat and chatted all day. Two of them asked me in detail about Ushba and the Bezengi wall, finding out if there were any simple routes there. I had to disappoint them.

Everyone oohed and aahed once again after listening to my story about the accident and the hand. And when they found out that the accident happened just six days ago, they gasped even more.
And only one, after asking me in detail about the details of the injury and the operation, said that it was crazy to go to the top. It turned out that he was a surgeon. But realizing that I was stubborn in my madness, he gave me a couple useful tips, what should be done during the ascent so that global problems do not happen to the hand.

Meanwhile, the weather completely deteriorated. Not only was there a strong wind blowing, but there were also clouds.

While I was photographing the surroundings, one of the Germans came up to me, took his phone and photographed me

According to the plan, we were supposed to move to Tejos in the late afternoon so that we could start the climb early in the morning.
However, time passed, and Mario was clearly not going anywhere.

The Germans listened to the weather forecast from me and somehow also began to actively discuss plans, because they were going to go to the top in a day.
In fact, I wasn't very sure about the prognosis. He was kind of strange. But it brought turmoil into the ranks of the Germans and their numerous guides.

In retaliation, they joked that if we were going to climb, then it would be best for us to take kites with us so that we could fly straight to the top.

In general, I began to suspect some kind of trick and called Mario for negotiations.

The negotiations were short-lived. Mario was as calm as a rock. What? To the top? Of course we will go to the top tomorrow. To Tejos today? What for? This will still not help with acclimatization. We'll get into the car at night and drive to Tejos.

Such a wonderful option had never occurred to me. He was undoubtedly good.

Meanwhile, the clouds stretched and the wind began to subside.

We agreed that we would wake up at two in the morning, and if the wind was not very strong, we would have breakfast and move towards the summit.

I climbed into the tent and began to pack my things. This time I prepared more carefully than ever. Several times I laid things out and put them back again.

Everything had to be foreseen possible options.
Finally, deciding that in the morning I would go through my things again, I tried to sleep.

At two o'clock in the morning it turned out that not only Mario and I woke up, but also all the Germans and their guides.
It turns out my weather forecast still mixed up their plans. In addition, they were inspired by the prospect of getting to Tejos by car.

Half of the Germans went in our car. Half - on the second car. Well, let's go - it's said loudly. We drove literally 200 meters and the car skidded.
Mario drove the Germans out immediately and they went on foot. He and I rode back and forth five more times. We drove to the shelter, after which he pumped up the tires. Then I tried to accelerate through a difficult place... In the end, I had to walk.
But hurray, it didn’t take long to walk. Soon Mario passed a difficult place and caught up with us.

Later it turned out that the second car could not get through, and our Germans went down.

While all these maneuvers were taking place, it was already five o’clock in the morning. And we went up.

The trail to Ojos is such a loose stretch. Walking along it with one stick is of course still a pleasure. I generally don’t walk in the mountains without poles. And then I had to hobble along the path using only one stick.

We walked for a long, long time. I expected that a little more and we would go out to the crater. I asked Mario what the height was.

A little more and it will be 6000 meters...

His answer greatly upset me. And I realized that there would be no miracle and this whole story would last for a long time.

Mario walked ahead at some distance with his hands in his pockets. From time to time he waited for me to capture my movements. But overall, he was clearly bored... But as they say, he took up the tug... Now drag this tug to the top.

I slowly crawled along a zigzag-shaped, rather dreary path.

So I walked, moving the fingers on my sore hand. Seems like he's in control of the situation. But what kind of control is there?
Fifth day in the mountains and now almost 7000 meters... Without acclimatization, after surgery...

In general, on the way to the crater I was covered. More and more often I stopped. I looked up hopelessly... And I thought what would happen if I turned back now

When it turned out that we had finally reached the crater, my state could hardly be called sane...
No, the only thing left for me is clarity of thought. And with these clear thoughts, I understood that in an amicable way I urgently needed to go downstairs. My legs could hardly walk anymore. It was almost impossible to breathe.

I tried to explain to Mario that I felt bad... Because it was no longer on the brink... It had long been beyond the bounds of reason, beyond the bounds of possibility...

But it’s difficult to explain anything when you’re choking on coughing and confused in your thoughts. In addition, our English vocabulary was very limited and did not always match.
In general, he either didn’t understand that I wanted to go down, or he pretended... But we went forward.

In addition, the thought was spinning in my head: I’ve already gone through so much, endured so much, and it would be a shame if all this was in vain.

There were about 150 meters in height left to the top. One and a half to two hours... And as a “pleasant” surprise - access to the top via a rocky tower.
15 meters of easy climbing. And another 20 meters along the ridge...

Then everyone asked me: how did you climb with only one hand?

How did I climb? There is a state when nothing can stop it.
Now I don’t know how I climbed seven thousand meters with one hand, out of breath and practically falling out of reality... But back then it didn’t seem like something super difficult. Here it is - the top.

Mario and I approached the rocks. Again, as we approached... There the trail ends and you have to climb over some stones, loose debris... Yeah, with one hand.
Well, we approached the rocks. Mario says: climb, it's under here left hand good leads. And so I climbed. I'm generally not good at climbing rocks. But I climbed without doubting for a second that this was the way it should be.

Somewhere towards the end of the path, the convenient steps for the left hand ended. Mario climbed a little lower than me, assuring me that if anything happened he would catch me. And then the moment came when I stretched myself in a certain crooked position and realized that I really needed my right hand...
I had to urgently explain to Mario that right now I thought I was going to fall.
He quickly crawled up to me and helped me climb up.

And here are a few more meters along the ridge...

I tried to realize that I had finally reached the top. No matter how bad it is, despite everything...

It was somehow difficult to comprehend all this. So I lay on the top listlessly photographing the surroundings

The tireless Mario dragged my almost lifeless carcass to show that Ojos is an active volcano. If you move a little to the side from the top you can really see the smoking fumaroles

However, it was necessary to go down

It was the most terrible descent. I walked and thought only about getting there. Get there with your own feet. Otherwise, it will be somehow inconvenient if you have to drag the hero down...

And I walked. Sometimes it seemed to me that it was slower than going up.

And then this crazy endless descent ended.

And there was a car in Texas. Literally 20 minutes, and here we are on the Atacama... I sat in the car for another hour and was dumb.
Mario brought me compote.
I ate pineapples and berries, looked at the top of Ojos... I understood that I would still have to pay for this forced march to the top...
But then it didn't matter.
Then there was just a feeling of happiness. And I hardly can describe it.

• EVENTS.

  Ojos del Salado(6893 m.) - the highest volcano on Earth and the second highest peak in South America after Aconcagua. Every year about 600 climbers from different countries. And this is not much for such an iconic mountain. Ojos del Salado is located in Chile, in the Atacama Desert, which is considered the driest on the planet.

  However, climbing Ojos is a real adventure due to its remoteness from civilization and sparsely visited. We will travel by SUV. We will visit several salt lakes, see alpacas (llamas) and flamingos, and visit real high-mountain salt marshes.

  We will set up our first camp at Laguna Rosa (pink lake), and then we will spend the night at Laguna Verde (green lake), where we will swim in the thermal springs. Laguna Verde is our main base camp, where we will meet climbers from around the world who also dream of climbing Ojos del Salado.

  The Atacama Desert in the area of ​​the Ojos del Salado volcano is home to hundreds of extinct volcanoes covered with snow. On the eastern slope, in the crater of the volcano, is the highest lake in the world (at an altitude of 6390 meters).

  The volcano is considered extinct. The last major eruption was more than 200 years ago. The first ascent to the top of Ojos del Salado was made in 1937 by Justin Voizhnis. The Incas considered this mountain sacred, and on its slopes you can find the remains of sacrificial altars.

  If desired, you can continue your holiday on the beaches Pacific Ocean, which is only 70 km from Copiapo.

  Our route: Santiago – Copiapó – Laguna Rosa (3800 m.) – Laguna Verde (4340 m.) – San Francisco (6000 m.) – Atacama Shelter 5200 m. – Tejos Shelter 5800 m. – Peak of Ojos del Salado 6893 m. – Copiapo – Santiago.

  Requirements for participants:
  The ascent to Ojos del Salado is technically simple and starts from an altitude of 5200 meters (to this height, delivery by jeep), but the altitude factor still plays a significant role. Therefore, it is advisable to make this ascent if you have experience in climbing peaks of 4500 - 5000 meters (for example, Elbrus, Kazbek, etc.).

Day 1- Group gathering at the city airport Copiapo. This is a small mining town, the gateway to the Atacama region. Overnight at the hotel. General briefing and discussion of plans for the next 14 days.

Day 2– Today is the day of preparation and gathering. We rent an SUV. We buy groceries. Transfer to the picturesque lake Laguna Santa Rosa (3800 m) about 3-4 hours, 150 km.

Laluna Rossa means “pink lake” in Spanish. This is a huge salt lake, part of which is covered with water. There are many birds here, including Chilean pink flamingos. Also, if you're lucky, we'll see alpacas (a type of llama).

Setting up camp at a campsite on the lake. Dinner, rest. Overnight in a tent camp (if desired, you can spend the night in a house).

Day 3- Today is the first morning at this altitude, we try not to put heavy stress on the body for the first few days. Therefore, on this day, a short walk in the vicinity of the lake (for better acclimatization at altitudes up to 4500). Night in the camp.

Day 4- In the morning after breakfast, acclimatization ascent to the peak of “7 Brothers” (4800 m). The ascent takes about 4 hours. Descent to the cars, transfer to Laguna Verde (4340 m), 2.5 hours - 130 km. On this day we are for the first time we will see Ojos del Salado (6893 m), the highest and largest peak in this region. Night in tents.

Day 5– This morning we slowly climb to the neighboring peak – Mt. Muerto Mule (from Spanish “dead mule”) to the mark of 5200 m. Descent to Laguna Verde. Rest. Overnight in tents (4340 m).

Laguna Verde translated from Spanish means Green Lake. It is remarkable not only because it is one of the highest mountain salt lakes, but also because there are many thermal springs around it and several baths with moderate temperatures, where you would happily return after climbing or a long day at altitude, after snow and cold Ojosa del Salado.

Day 6– Early rise, access to Mount San Francisco (6018 m). The mountain is located 20 km from Laguna Verde on the Chile-Argentina border. Transfer to an altitude of 5100 m. Then walk along the trail. The journey to the top takes 5-6 hours. Descent to Laguna Verde. Rest. Overnight in tents (4340 m).

Day 7- Day of rest.

Day 8– Transfer to the Atacama shelter (5260m). 1 hour drive or about 40 km from Laguna Verde off-road. Walk to 5600 m, return to the Atacama shelter. Setting up camp at the shelter. The shelter is a large container for 4 people, so we don’t really expect to sleep in it overnight.

Day 9– moving to the Tejos shelter and, if possible, climbing to an elevation of 6200-6400 m. The road to the shelter is quite difficult and requires attention, often after heavy snowfalls it is impossible to get to the Tejos shelter, and the car remains at the Atacama shelter, and we go on foot. Overnight at the Tejos shelter.

Day 10– Descent to Laguna Verde. Rest.

Day 11- Day of rest.

Day 12-Preparing for the ascent. We will try to go to bed early so that no later than 0:00 o’clock we will leave in the direction of the Tejos shelter and begin our assault on the summit.

Day 13–Climbing Ojos del Salado 6893 m. Early exit. The journey to the top takes about 8-10 hours and back 3-5 hours. The classic climbing route is a slanting traverse, exit into the summit crater and 20 m along simple rocks to the top. And here we are at the top of the highest volcano - Ojos del Salado (6893 m). Descent to Laguna Verde.

Day 14– Reserve day in case of bad weather and other circumstances.

Day 15– Return to Copiapo. Overnight at the hotel. Farewell dinner, summing up and presentation of certificates.

Day 16- Farewell to the group. Morning departure to the airport.

Note*:
The program is not final and may be adjusted depending on the weather, the condition of the participants and other factors.


• NUMBER OF PARTICIPANTS	PRICE
  4	2250 USD
  3	2600 USD
  2	3500 USD

  INCLUDED:

  Guide work, one guide per group of up to 4 people;
  - second guide if the group is more than 4 people
  - all transfers according to the program;
  - accommodation in 3* hotels in Santiago and Copiapo (2 nights);
  - accommodation in tent camps Laguna Santa Rosa, Laguna Verde, Atacama and Tejos shelter according to the program;
  - security (group first aid kit, GPS navigator);
  - permit to climb;
  - rental of public equipment (tents, kitchen, gas);
  - shared tent, wardroom;
  - furniture (tables, chairs, utensils for cooking);
  - full meals on the active part of the route (day 2 - day 14), participants prepare themselves;
  - jeep rental and gasoline to the camp 5800 m (13 days in total), one car for 3-4 people;

  NOT INCLUDED :

  International flight to Santiago (from $1000);
  - flight Santiago-Copiapo-Santiago (from $150);
  - transfer to/from the airports of Santiago and Copiapo;
  - additional nights at a hotel in Santiago and Copiapo;
  - obtaining a Chilean visa (for citizens of the Russian Federation and Ukraine a visa is not required);
  - personal climbing equipment (system, crampons, carabiners);
  - personal insurance, coverage of at least 30,000 USD (mandatory);
  - work of a cook;
  - food in cities ($20-40/day);
  - tips for the guide (optional);
  - additional days of jeep rental + gasoline for more than 14 days ($150 per day);
  - any additional costs arising in connection with the early termination or change of the tour program;
  - additional excursions and overnight stays in cities;
  - other expenses not specified in the program.

  Note: The group shares additional costs for the guide equally.

Absence of diseases incompatible with active tourism:

Basic clothing and equipment for climbing:

Visa:
Citizens of the Russian Federation do not require a visa to visit this country. Upon arrival at the airport, you only need to provide a passport valid for 6 months from the date of entry.

Medicine:
At the exits, the group first aid kit is kept by the guide. It is better to have your own set of medications for individual diseases and chronic diseases.

Safety:
This program is potentially dangerous to the health and life of any of the participants.
The guides will provide you with the necessary safety, provided you follow the safety rules. The guide has a walkie-talkie, GPS (satellite navigation device), and other necessary group equipment.
The decision to stop climbing in conditions that threaten the safety of the participants is within the exclusive competence of the guide accompanying the group on the route and is not subject to discussion.
The guide is obliged to take measures to ensure the safety of the group on all types of mountainous terrain.

• Climbing Ojos del Salado (6893 m), Chile. Description-report.
  At the beginning of February 2017, we were in the area of ​​the highest volcano on Earth - Ojos del Salado, 6893 m. We reached a height of 6650 m, 250 m in height before reaching the top. And since I often use other people’s descriptions and advice about a particular place, I consider it fair to share information that will be useful both to future independent experienced climbers and to me next time if I forget everything.

To the west of Ojos del Salado (its height is more than 6800 m) and to the Pacific coast lies the Atacama Desert, and its eastern slope is occupied by the highest lake in the world (it is located in a crater, at an altitude of almost 6400 meters; the diameter of the lake is 100 m). It is worth noting that the name of the volcano is translated from Spanish as “salty eyes.” One “eye” is this high-mountain salt lake.

The eastern slopes of the mountain are famous for their tropical forests (they grow up to the 3 km mark; this area is subject to heavy rainfall). As for the western slopes, they are deserted due to insufficient precipitation in this area. And at an altitude of 5 km there is snow.

The volcano has not erupted in its entire history, although it was occasionally activated in 1937, 1956 and 1993, when it spewed a small amount of water vapor and sulfur. However, it is considered extinct.

Climbers from Poland (Jan Szczepanski and Yunis Woiznis) managed to conquer Ojos del Salado for the first time in 1937. Then experienced climbers discovered the sacrificial altars of the Incas. From which it was concluded that the Indians worshiped the volcano as a sacred mountain, and it acted as a place of sacrifice.

In 2007, Chilean athlete Gonzalo Bravo managed to set a world record for climbing the mountain by car. He climbed the slope of Ojos del Salado on a modified Suzuki SJ to a height of 6688 meters.

There is another interesting fact: local residents use “fog eliminators” to get water in the desert. They are made in the form of cylinders the size of a person: fog condenses on their walls (they are made of nylon threads), after which the extracted water flows down into the reservoir.

Ojos del Salado for tourists

The best peaks for mountaineering are those that are located on the side. Climbing groups usually find their refuge not far from.

The best time to conquer Ojos del Salado is from November to March (dry and warm). Thus, many people prefer to hit the road at the end of the year, when it is easier to find water (the snow begins to melt; average speed the wind gets lower). In any case, do not forget about equipment - windproof clothing, as well as protection for your hands, feet and face.

Mountaineering on the slopes of a volcano cannot be called a difficult journey, with the exception of a serious section of the path just before the top (the main “stumbling block” is the wind blowing at high speed). Therefore, those who are not ready to overcome such difficulties return back without fully conquering Ojos del Salado.

It is worth noting that when conquering the mountain slopes from the Chilean side, travelers will be able to spend the night in a hut, while on the slopes on the Argentine side there are no such amenities, but there are wind shelters built by other climbers who once climbed the mountain.

Organized tours with a guide according to a shortened program take 7 days (the full program lasts at least 13 days):

• Day 1: The journey begins in Copiapo, where the necessary products for the ascent will be purchased. On the same day, you will move to the Santa Rosa Lagoon, where you will be able to meet flamingos and llamas (guanacos). Here tourists will spend the night in a camp.
• Day 2: in the morning there will be an ascent (in order to undergo acclimatization) to the top of “7 Brothers” (4800 m). After a 6-hour ascent, there will be a descent to the Laguna Santa Rosa camp, where you will spend the night.
• Day 3: in the morning tourists will move to Laguna Santa Verde (you can swim in the warm springs). Here we will set up camp and spend the night.
• Day 4: tourists will be transported to the Atacama shelter, but they will be asked to cover the last section of the route (several kilometers) on their own for better acclimatization. The night will be spent in a camp at the Atacama shelter.
• Day 5: early in the morning, tourists will have a 3-4 hour journey to the Tejos shelter (you can pick up food and water brought here). Night in tents.
• Day 6: Travelers will be awakened in the middle of the night (1-2 am) to begin the climb to Ojos del Salado. The ascent will take about 10-11 hours. You should be prepared that at the top you will be greeted by a sharp takeoff and will have to climb along the rocks along a section about 4 m long. Then you will have a descent down to the Atacama shelter.
• Day 7: transfer to Copiapo - the starting point of the route.

In the vicinity of the volcano, the following objects are of interest: the ruins of ancient Indian buildings - huts made of stone and cactus; La Silla Observatory (has 18 telescopes; its location is in an area isolated from artificial light and dust sources, which is important for observations).

Route thread

Santiago – Copiapo – Laguna Rosa (3800 m) – Laguna Verde (4340 m) – Atacama Refuge (5100 m) – Tejos Refuge (5800 m) – Ojos del Salado Summit (6893 m) – Copiapo – Santiago

The tour price includes

All transfers according to the program
Accommodation in 3* hotels (2 nights)
Accommodation in shelters
Public equipment (tents, climbing equipment, navigator, gas, burners, dishes)
Food during the climb
Jeep rental and gasoline
Permit for climbing
Guide from AlpIndustry

The tour price does not include

Flight Moscow – Capiapo – Moscow
Applying for a visa to Chile (if necessary)
Insurance from $90

Required documents

Foreign passport

Safety

All our guides have completed a first aid course and are Red Cross certified. The guide has a group first aid kit. If a program participant has any chronic diseases, it is necessary to inform the organizers in advance. If you have any chronic health problems, please inform the guide and take necessary medications on one's own. It is also recommended to have a small personal first aid kit with personal medications.

Accommodation/Hotels

In cities, accommodation in 3* hotels; On the ascent route, one person stays in tents.

In Copiapó - breakfast in hotels. Lunches and dinners in a cafe. Dinner costs from $10.
At Base Camps, meals are provided 3 times a day, prepared by guides. There is a special menu for vegetarians.
Standard menu: breakfast choice: muesli, oatmeal or pasta (with sausage or cheese). Sandwiches, sweets, tea, coffee. In the middle of the day, light lunch: salad, sandwiches, soup. In the evening, dinner: borscht or soup, boiled potatoes, pilaf or buckwheat porridge with fresh meat or poultry, fresh vegetable salad, choice of red or white wine. Appetizers - olives, red fish, cheese, sausages, ham, lard.
Boiling water in thermoses, sweets, honey, halva, cookies are always on the table in the wardroom.
On the ascent route, you are served 2 meals a day (on the way out - breakfast and dinner, lunch to go), we use dehydrated products. To prepare, you just need to pour boiling water over the product. The guides prepare boiling water for everyone.
Food will be centralized along the entire route from Copiapo, but it is very convenient to have your own burner. This is a great opportunity to heat tea or prepare soup any time you need it.

The weather in Ojos del Salado is changeable. Sudden temperature changes even in Base Camp. There are often strong winds and poor visibility is possible, especially near the summit. Temperatures at altitudes above 6000 m are down to -10-25. But depending on the wind strength it can be perceived as -35.

Mobile communications and the Internet are absent almost along the entire route. The guide will have a satellite phone for communication.

For a long time, the Argentine volcano (according to various sources - from 6723 to 6739 m), located in the Andes, appeared in reference books as the world record holder for rising to the skies. It has erupted more than once in human memory - in 1854, 1868 and 1877. There are, of course, many mountains of volcanic origin that are much higher, but these are volcanoes considered as dormant or extinct. The Chilean volcano with a height of 6891 meters, also located in the Andes, near the Chilean-Argentine border, was also considered this way.

Volcano Ojos del Salado in Chile

The last eruption of this volcano, as is commonly believed, was about 1300 years ago and is not recorded in human memory.
Meanwhile, in 1993 produced a small ash release. Fumaroles were discovered in the crater - outlets of jets of volcanic gases and steam. This made it possible to review the “status” of the volcano and “reclassify” it as active. It is currently considered to be the tallest active volcano in the world. By the way, the first 20 are located in the Andes.

Records of Ojos del Salado

Ojos del Salado holds several other records. This is the highest point in Chile. This is the second peak of America and the entire Western Hemisphere, located 600 kilometers to the south.

There is another record - here lies the highest lake on Earth. Generally speaking, there is little moisture here: Ojos del Salado stands on the edge of the desert.

A permanent snow cap does not form on the top. But in the crater, at an altitude of 6390 m, there is a permanent lake with a diameter of about 100 m. This is the highest water lying on the earth’s surface.

The first ascent of the record-breaking volcano was made in 1937. This was done by Polish climbers Jan Szczepański and Justin Wojżnis. On the way to the top, the Poles discovered several sacrificial altars, the history of which dates back to the Inca civilization. Apparently, among the ancient Americans the volcano was revered as a sacred mountain and served as a place for making sacrifices.

In 2007, Chileans climbed the volcano in a special car to a height of 6688 m (included in the Guinness Book of Records). This was done by Gonzalo Bravo, a Chilean racing driver. He used a Suzuki Samurai.