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A stove made from a beer can. How to make an alcohol burner from a beer can. Can burner

Using ordinary empty aluminum cans of beer, juice, cocoa and other drinks, you can make an alcohol burner with your own hands. Moreover, it will be very compact, light, and therefore you can take it with you on any hike, trip, or just at the dacha to quickly cook something or make yourself tea.

To make an alcohol burner with your own hands, first of all, we will need:

— Two aluminum cans of beer, Coca-Cola (or other drinks);

— Stationery knife, scalpel or scissors;

- Sandpaper;

- Super glue;

- Coin.

We wash the cans, dry them, then use sandpaper to remove paint from the bottom of the cans. This is necessary so that when the finished alcohol burner burns, the can does not smoke, as the paint will burn out.

There are 2 options: the first is to take a scalpel or a stationery knife, clamp it in a vice at the required height (this is necessary so that the cut is at the same level on all sides of the can) and begin to turn the can around without lifting its bottom from the table, thus the can will be cut smoothly and beautifully.

The second option is to place a marker on something, the same level as half the height of our future alcohol burner should be, for example, on a book or cork, and again turn the jar around without lifting it from the table and thus draw a line along which we will cut off the bottom of the aluminum banks. Next, take a scalpel, a utility knife or scissors and cut off the bottom. We clean the edges with sandpaper to get rid of burrs.

Now we have two identical aluminum cups to create a beer can burner, they need to be inserted into each other. To make this easier, you need to stretch one such cup; this can be done by placing it on another similar aluminum can, preferably a full, closed one. After this, it will stretch a lot, this will be enough for the second cup to be inserted inside.

But before combining the halves, you need to put cotton wool or 2-3 layers of absorbent sponge cellulose napkin on the bottom of the half that will be the bottom. So that the alcohol does not spill out of our alcohol burner and does not evaporate so quickly. Next, we insert the other half inside and for greater strength of the connection, you can apply superglue along the edges.

Using an awl, we make 5 holes in the center of the future burner; if the awl is thick, then even two will be enough; through these holes we will pour alcohol. It will also act as an overpressure valve and prevent damage to the burner. Next, you need to make holes along the edges - 20 of them at equal distances, through which ignited alcohol vapor will escape. It will be better if you mark out the placement of these holes in advance. It will also be better if you make the holes not with an awl, but with a Dremel or a drill with a thin drill of about 1 mm. Then the holes will turn out more beautiful and not concave inward as is the case with an awl.

Mini alcohol burner made from an aluminum can is ready:

Using an alcohol burner

Pour 30 ml of alcohol through the central holes. To refuel the burner, you can use any alcohol of at least 85% (for example, methyl technical). Then we close the central holes with a coin. If excess pressure forms inside, it will flip the coin and the burner will not explode.

Before you light our alcohol burner, you need to warm it up first; to do this, take the burner and heat it from below using a lighter so that the gas begins to evaporate. Try to warm it up as much as possible, then ignition will happen faster.

30 ml of alcohol is enough for about 20 minutes of burning, this is quite enough to boil a kettle or fry scrambled eggs. Using our homemade mini-burner, you can boil half a liter of water from a jar in 7-10 minutes. In order to extinguish the burner, you just need to cover it with a cup, pan or something else, or when all the alcohol has burned out, it will go out on its own. You will also need a stand for a saucepan or kettle; it can be bent from wire.

The hiking life of an avid tourist is not complete without all sorts of gadgets and devices. After all, the more prepared you are in nature, the easier it will be to cope with everyday difficulties, such as heating water or food. It seems like a simple task, but with firewood, and even in a damp forest, it is sometimes not so easy to solve.

This is where a camping alcohol burner comes in handy, as it can easily replace a stove, primus stove or any other heater. And today we will tell you how to make it from aluminum cans. The raw materials are the most affordable and do not have any special features. Regular aluminum cola and beer cans will do. So let's get started!

Materials, tools

  • Several aluminum cans of the same diameter (one of them with a screw cap);
  • Copper tube, diameter – 4-6 mm;
  • Nut M6-M8;
  • Bolt according to the size of the nut with a rubber sealing ring;
  • Two-component epoxy-based adhesive;
  • Twine (rope) according to the size of the inner diameter of the copper tube;
  • Alcohol.
Tools we will need: Screwdriver or drill; Pliers; Regular scissors; Knife; Marker; A syringe for refilling the burner and a lighter.

Step-by-step instructions for making a jet alcohol burner

For the body we will need several small pieces of aluminum cans. All you need is the lower part with the bottom, which we cut off at a distance of 4-5 cm from the edge of the embossed bottom of the cans.


The bottom of one of the cans will be the working part of the burner, so it must be sanded to remove varnish and paint. Otherwise, they will burn when heated and leave unpleasant marks behind.
Next, you need to bend the copper tube, making two small brackets out of it that fit the diameter of the bottom of the jar. To do this neatly and without breaking, pour fine sand into the inside of the tube and bend it, using a larger diameter pipe as a template.


We cut off the neck of one of the cans and also clean it with sandpaper. We check that the neck fits the size of the bottom of our burner.


Then we mark the edges of the copper tube staples at the bottom of the jar. They need to be positioned perpendicular to each other so that they overlap and form a cross.
We drill holes for the tube outlets with drills, starting from the smallest. The final drill will be a drill corresponding to the diameter of the copper tubes. This way the holes will be as neat as possible.


We insert a piece of twine inside the copper brackets as a wick, and place a cross made of tubes in the bottom of our burner.



Each aluminum can has an inclined edge separating the straight walls and the concave topography of the bottom. We make a hole in it for screw filling of our burner. Let's make it from a Euro nut with a wide collar at the base, and a bolt with a rubber gasket that protects against fuel evaporation.



It's time to fix all the elements using a specialized high-temperature two-component epoxy adhesive. This glue can rightfully be considered unique, since it can withstand heating up to 316 degrees Celsius without loss of strength and glues almost any material!
We glue the base of the staples, the neck and the euro nut with diluted epoxy glue.


We coat their connections with the bottom so that they are completely sealed.



Using a thin drill, we drill holes in the bottom of the jar between the bracket arms.


Now you can assemble the burner body from two scraps of aluminum cans. Our homemade product is completely ready to go!



You can refuel it using a regular syringe, and the screw cap on the neck will not allow fuel to spill out of the burner.

From the site www.site: This article was kindly provided to our website by the author - nilsman.livejournal.com. The article describes in an accessible form a burner based on alcohol or other liquid fuel. The main advantage of this burner is the speed of manufacturing the product and the extreme availability of materials used in the manufacture of this item, the small weight and dimensions of the burner and, most importantly, efficiency. The author of these lines made this alcohol burner in 15 minutes and easily boiled water for a mug of tea in just 3-5 minutes.

They say you can buy fondue pots or ready-made tourist alcohol lamps from Tatonka, but why spend money if you can do everything yourself? Moreover, the homemade version, judging by the reviews on specialized forums like the Hansa, works better and is generally superior to the Swede in many respects.

For production you will need:

  • Aluminum can 0.33l – 2 pcs
  • Cotton wool - medium sized clump
  • Sandpaper 200 grit or finer
  • Cutter or marker for marking
  • A very smart book of sufficient thickness
  • Button or thin awl
  • Scissors

Let's get started.
First you need to get rid of the paint on the cans. This step is not at all necessary because it will eventually burn out anyway, and has a greater impact on appearance finished product. To do this, you need to rub the FULL jar with sandpaper along the walls in the bottom area. The paint will peel off, exposing the brushed aluminum. Aesthetes can try to wash off the paint with a solvent (646 easily washed off the bottling date from the bottom) - you should get a shiny mirror surface.

Now is the time to pour the contents of the jar into the toilet and start marking. The method of marking a cut is not new and was picked up by smart-ass Americans (it would seem that people with money could go and buy something ready-made - but no, they do it themselves), but it has been slightly modified:

1. Measure the desired height. In the pendostan recipe we looked at - 1 (one) canonical inch. We fix the blade or marker on a suitable stand, in in this case- in the book.

2. Draw a cutting line by rotating the can pressed to the blade. This is where there was a departure from the canon, because in the “Pendostan” (American - website note) version the blade should cut off the bottom, but in ours it only scratches. For this reason, you don’t have to fiddle with the blade and apply markings with a marker.

3. Cut off the bottom along the marking line. The walls have an uneven thickness, but even in the thickest places they can be easily cut with ordinary office scissors. We sand the edges of the resulting part to avoid cuts.

During the manufacturing process, the two bottoms obtained in this way will need to be inserted into one another. It is clear and understandable that having the same diameter, they will hinder this in every possible way and may become wrinkled, therefore, immediately after making the first bottom, it should be flared with a second can that has not yet been touched. The full jar must be forcefully pushed into the cut bottom, without, however, allowing the walls to rupture or deform.

We take the awl out of the butt and pierce the narrow (not flared) bottom in the center, and then in four places nearby. The configuration and number of holes are to your taste.

We put cotton...

And we insert the bottom one into the other as deeply as possible. The walls of the outer bottom will rise slightly above the inner one - to seal the structure and to avoid cutting yourself, cover them with a wooden block or knife.

Stick the nozzles on the bottom cone with all your heart. I was enough for sixteen, i.e. somewhere every centimeter.

The alcohol lamp is ready!

However, your adventures are just beginning, because purchasing alcohol (yes, a spirit lamp runs on alcohol) in this country seems to be a far from trivial task. In short, in Russia you can buy it either with a prescription at a pharmacy or at a local distillery. Therefore, we will have to farm collectively and here fulfill the plan of our saint Dmitry Anatolyevich and switch to alternative energy sources.

Having scoured the Internet, it was found that it still makes sense to go to the pharmacy - you can get some money there alcohol tincture anything. Kelp, for example, or licorice root, or leuzea, or pepper. The better, you can check with local alcoholics.

Option number two is windshield washer fluid from a car store. The notorious "Maximka" and others like it are blue. But personally, I’m toad stifled to give two and a half hundred, even for five liters.

Third, liquids that are not alcoholic at all. In principle, you can pour gasoline into an alcohol lamp of this type, but it’s still not worth the risk - the fumes from it, in a closed space, and under pressure... Kerosene is no problem, but the stench will be incredible. I heard about the experience of using DT - it seems to be successful. Any isopropyl and other methyl alcohols can be used, but you need to remember that these are all strong poisons and cooking with such an alcohol lamp is dangerous. Moreover, in the same ShAK the fuel is stored in a bottle in a pot, which can result in global pizdets if it spills.

The author, represented by me, tried what was at hand, namely 646 solvent and the recommended acetone. 646 can be immediately discarded - it stinks and smokes very strongly. Acetone burns odorless, but with a slight soot (they promised that it would not smoke at all) and, in principle, is suitable for use in an acetone alcohol lamp, but you will have to look for a suitable bottle because acetone does not seem to be friendly with plastics.

For dessert - self-immolation of acetone in an alcohol lamp:

Recipe: pour twenty cubes into the spirit lamp through the central holes and two or three cubes AROUND the spirit lamp or onto it. We set fire to the acetone from the outside and after a couple of seconds the acetone in the alcohol lamp begins to boil, intensive steam formation begins and the alcohol lamp enters operating mode. When the acetone burns out from the outside, the alcohol lamp will heat itself and the boiling process will not be interrupted. Place the pot on top and cook. All.

The cost of a fake craft is extremely low (in the worst case, fifty dollars, on average it’s free), the labor intensity of the operations is somewhere at the level of preschool training (and it’s harder to cut cardboard with scissors than a can), and it takes about fifteen minutes. In general, you can make such a spirit lamp simply out of interest, without pursuing any utilitarian goals. At the same time, the product is also lighter, smaller and more convenient than factory samples, and this is a big plus.

The idea of ​​an alcohol burner made from a tin or aluminum can is not new. Such a device has long been used by hunters and fishermen in the wild to warm up a mug of tea or cook food without starting a fire, and at home, an alcohol lamp for the same purposes often comes in handy during a power outage. An alcohol burner from a can is very simple to make, and if you experiment with its modification, you can adjust the height of the flames, the duration of combustion, and the amount of heat released during fuel combustion. You can learn more about how to make a burner with your own hands.

To make a simple alcohol lamp, you will need two aluminum cans of beer or any carbonated water. To prevent the beer can burner from smoking and melting when burning, you need to sand its surface with sandpaper to get rid of the paint. Then you need to cut off a part of each can, about 3 cm from the bottom, with a stationery knife. The cutting line should be straight, so you can use a marker attached to a 3 cm high board to draw this line, or secure a utility knife in a vice, while twisting the can, cutting off the desired part. The sharp edges of the cut part must be sanded.

The two identical parts of the cans thus obtained must be connected by inserting one into the other. Since they have the same diameter, the connection can be difficult because you need to insert one into the other so that there is no gap between them. Since aluminum is easily deformed, before cutting off the second blank, you can stretch the cut, finished part of the future alcohol lamp onto the bottom of the whole jar, thus expanding its edges to the desired diameter.

After both parts are connected, you need to make holes around the perimeter of the upper part of the alcohol lamp with an awl or a 1-2 mm drill. There can be 18-20 of them with the same distance between them. In order for the flames to rise upward, the edges of the holes need to be slightly bent upward. At the top of the burner you need to make several holes 3 mm in diameter to pour alcohol and adjust the internal pressure of the container.


You can simply pour alcohol inside the burner, or you can place a cotton pad there so that it is saturated with it.

A DIY beer can burner works very simply: 30 ml of alcohol is poured inside, the inlet holes in the center of the top are closed with a coin. The bottom of the alcohol lamp is heated with a match, the alcohol vapor ignites, forming flames emerging from holes made around the perimeter.


To make it convenient to heat water or food on the burner, you need to make a stand for dishes. To do this, you need to use a slightly larger jar, for example, a canned jar. You need to mark two lines on it: one at the height of the burner, the second at a height twice the length of the burner. The top of the jar is cut off, and its walls are divided into 12 vertical cuts. Of this number, you need to leave six pieces, cutting off the extra ones after one. In the center of the bottom you need to make a hole for heating, and bend the remaining strips inward towards the bottom. The stand is ready, all that remains is to place the alcohol burner inside it.


Can burner

In addition to using aluminum beer cans, a spirit lamp can be made from an ordinary tin can. A burner made from a tin of coffee or brewed tea with a tight-fitting lid would also work great.

The principle of making a burner from a can is similar to that described above:

  1. Several holes are made in the lid for pouring alcohol.
  2. Next, you need to make holes along the diameter of the top edge of the jar at a distance of 1-1.5 cm. They should have a diameter of about 1 mm and the edges bent upward at an angle. This is necessary so that the alcohol vapors are directed upward.
  3. The cans are lit in the same way as beer cans, with the holes in the top pre-closed using a coin.

In principle, you can make an open alcohol burner; a lid is not needed for this. To do this, you need to insert a tin plate into it, rolled into a circle with a diameter smaller than the walls of the tin can. Alcohol is poured into the resulting circle in the center and set on fire.

As with any flammable substance, handling alcohol requires caution. You cannot fill the jar to the top with it, otherwise it may explode. Apart from alcohol, it is not recommended to use other types of fuel. The burner cannot be placed on a table at home, as it may catch fire, and in general, when using an alcohol lamp at home, it is necessary to use a stand both for the burner itself and for the dishes. To put out an alcohol lamp, it is necessary to stop the access of oxygen to the burning alcohol vapor; to do this, you can cover it on top with a tin lid. The burner should not be used to heat small synthetic tents.

From a couple of empty tin cans you can assemble a lightweight and functional alcohol burner with your own hands.

Knowing how to make an alcohol burner can help you in emergency situations, long expeditions, or when you want to impress your friends.

Step 1: Tools and Materials

We will need:

  • 2 aluminum cans
  • wooden boards (one about 2 cm thick and several thinner ones)
  • stationery knife
  • a pair of pushpins
  • screwdriver
  • pliers, preferably with thin tips
  • coin
  • lighter fluid (for example methanol, isopropyl alcohol did not work very well)

Step 2: Assembling the Can Cutter

First we need to assemble a can cutter that will allow you to cut them in a straight line. In a pinch, you can just use scissors, a knife, etc., but it will be much better if you get a nice clean cut.

The saw is a regular blade from a stationery knife, secured to the board using buttons. We will need two boards of different thicknesses: approximately 2 cm for the upper part, and approximately 3 cm for the lower part - the body of the burner.

Be careful when cutting and with the cut can - the metal may be very sharp.

Step 3: Cutting the Cans




In this step we will cut two beer cans, creating burner pieces. As mentioned above, the top part will be approximately 2 cm high and the bottom part will be 3 cm high.

Use a saw or other tools to cut off the bottom of the cans. Using your fingers, gently twist the top of the can to separate it where the blade enters it. After separating the cans into pieces, smooth the sharp edges with decoction, a file or sandpaper.

Step 4: Prepare the Burner






The smaller tin will be the burner. Using a pin, make 6 small holes around the perimeter of its base. Uniform distribution of holes will give the product a neat appearance and slightly improve its characteristics, but in general it has only an aesthetic value. It is important that the holes are on the sides as this will help heat the outer container which then heats the fuel.

Then make one center hole, make a pilot hole with a pin and widen it with a screwdriver or other available tool. The hole should be about 0.5 cm in diameter, but if you get a wider hole, that's okay.

Next, make 6 large holes along the rim of the jar, each under a small hole. You can use a screwdriver for this, but do not make the holes too large. It is very important not to damage the edge of the can, as it will connect to the second part of the can.

Fold the edge of the can inward at twelve evenly spaced points, one fold for each hole and one between each hole. As a result, we will get a nice relief.

Step 5: Assemble the Burner



Now we are ready to assemble both parts of the burner together. Insert the smaller part into the larger one, bottom up. It is very important that the parts fit together evenly.

Step 6: Refuel and light the burner





In order for the burner to work, you need to fill it with fuel. The idea is that the fuel heats up, some of it evaporates and then ignites.

First, place a coin on top of the center hole. Next, pour the fuel into the small cup created after you have closed the center hole (this cup is used as a measuring part). Remove the coin so that the fuel flows down to the bottom. Leaving a small amount of fuel on the outer fin will ignite it to “start” the unit.

The outer part will begin to heat up from the fire, this will lead to the fact that the fuel inside will begin to evaporate.

After ignition, the side nozzles will also light up. The coin will act as a pressure valve and periodically the burner will flip the coin slightly to release any excess.

At this point, check for leaks between the nozzles - if the two parts of the device are not sealed properly, you may have to adjust the poorly sealed parts.

If you need to put out the burner, quickly remove the coin from the hole (using a knife, stick or something else) and the fire will go out.

If you are using the burner in the snow, you can use another can as an additional bottom to insulate the burner from below.