The best material for foundation waterproofing. Waterproofing materials for foundations How to coat foundations for waterproofing

This article will discuss in detail the installation of proper waterproofing of the foundation of the house, the walls and floor of the basement, as well as the basement. We will talk about whether it is always necessary to waterproof them, and what will happen if it (waterproofing) is not done. Let's consider the types of waterproofing materials that are best used for these structures and tell us what materials should not be used to waterproof them. We will also dwell on possible defects in the waterproofing of the foundation, basement and plinth and how to eliminate these defects if they have already appeared and prevent them at the stage of waterproofing work.

General requirements for waterproofing

We often do not attach due importance to waterproofing and after some time we observe the results of the destructive influence of water on the structure of the house.

Non-waterproofed basement

It is much easier to prevent these consequences. To do this, it is important to protect the following structures from moisture:

foundation;
basement floor and walls;
base;
house walls;
floors on the ground;
roof;
junction points of door and window openings.

If you pay attention, almost all the structures of the house are listed here, except, probably, internal partitions.

So, how to properly waterproof your foundation, basement, and other structures? The waterproofing layer of any structure must be continuous and without breaks over the entire insulated surface. A waterproofing layer is installed on the side of the structure that is subject to hydrostatic pressure, or there is a risk of capillary rise and water seepage.

Foundation waterproofing

When should you waterproof your foundation?

Any foundation should be protected from two types of water: surface (precipitation) and underground (groundwater).

The blind area protects against the penetration and negative impact of surface water on the foundation. And this is its main function. You can read more about the blind area in the article: And if there is surface water in any area and the blind area should therefore always be done by everyone without exception, then underground water and, accordingly, waterproofing from it are not always necessary. To say that there is no groundwater in any area and the foundation there can not be waterproofed would not be correct. After all, in our area there is underground water almost everywhere. The question is the depth of their occurrence relative to the level of the foundation, as well as the level of seasonal rise of groundwater during the spring flood.

1. Waterproofing of the foundation must be done if the groundwater level (GWL) is located at a depth of less than 1 meter from the bottom of the foundation. This value is indicated taking into account the spring rise of the groundwater level, since it often happens that the groundwater level, located at the same depth in summer, rises 1-2 meters higher in the spring due to snow melting. With this arrangement of the groundwater level, waterproofing will protect the foundation from capillary rise of groundwater and for these purposes, coating waterproofing will be sufficient.

2. If the groundwater level lies at a depth of more than 1 m from the bottom of the foundation, then waterproofing, in principle, need not be done. But I would like to draw your attention to the fact that the groundwater level tends to increase not only seasonally - in the spring, but also over time (over the years) due to an increase in building density, due to the installation of drainages in neighboring areas, asphalting of adjacent areas, as well as when creating non-waterproofed artificial reservoirs at a distance of even 1 km. Such changes are usually called long-term fluctuations in groundwater level. Taking them into account, even with a low groundwater level, it is advisable to do at least the most inexpensive waterproofing of the foundation - coating, especially if there is a basement.

3. If the groundwater level is high - above the bottom of the foundation, then in addition to waterproofing, you also need to do drainage to drain water from the foundation.

GWL above the level of the bottom of the foundation

Why can't you just use waterproofing? When water is above the level of the base of the foundation, it creates hydrostatic pressure on the foundation, which reduces the force of the foundation on the foundation. Those. in simple words, the supporting force of the foundation decreases, as a result of which shifts of the foundation and even its overturning can occur if you leave it unloaded on such soils, for example for the winter. Therefore, the foundation must not only be protected from excess moisture, but also the groundwater level must be lowered. And drainage just allows you to lower the groundwater level and thereby reduce the hydrostatic pressure on the foundation, which waterproofing does not provide.

Decrease in ground level

4. Sometimes serious waterproofing of the foundation should be done regardless of the water level. This is necessary if the construction of a house is planned on waterproof or so-called waterproof soils (clay, loams) with layers of permeable soil. Because such soils do not allow surface water to easily escape from permeable areas into the underlying soil layers, and the water moves along the path of least resistance, namely to the foundation. Therefore, it needs to be waterproofed.

Construction on waterproof soil

Note: Soils with filtration coefficient k are considered waterproof<10 -6 см/с. Коэффициент фильтрации, k, см/с (принятая характеристика водопроницаемости грунта) имеет следующие значения для разных грунтов:

sands10 -2 —10 -4
sandy loam and loam10 -3 -10 -8
clay10 -7 -10 -10.

5. Regardless of the groundwater level and type of foundation, it is very important to pay attention to the composition of groundwater (GW), which is shown by engineering-geological surveys. In some areas, aggressive gases are found. They negatively affect the load-bearing capacity of concrete, simply destroying it, which is commonly called concrete corrosion.

Concrete corrosion

Therefore, to protect such foundations, it is recommended to construct them from moisture-resistant concrete grade W4 and higher (according to clause 2.9. SNiP 2.03.11-85). And all waterproofing materials used for such foundations must be resistant to aggressive environments. The most dangerous for concrete and mortars are pressure aggressive groundwater.

Next we will analyze the types of waterproofing for different foundations. You can choose the right waterproofing if you know the type of foundation and how “pressurized” the groundwater is, so a few words about this. All groundwater is conventionally divided into suspended, non-pressure, low-pressure, and pressure.

Gravity groundwater- are in direct contact with the atmosphere through the open pores of a permeable medium.

Pressure waters Separated from the atmosphere by relatively waterproof rocks, they have sufficient pressure to self-flow onto the surface of the earth.

Low-pressure waters are in transitional conditions, characteristic of both pressure and non-pressure waters.

suspended waters- the first free-flow waters from the earth's surface are located above the main zone of free-flow waters and represent more or less isolated accumulations of water.

Example of aquifer occurrence

The figure shows the typical occurrence of aquifers represented by sedimentary rocks. In the position where well 1 is installed, the water of horizon B is considered suspended, and the water of horizon C is considered free-flowing. Well 2 passes through suspended water of horizon A, free-flow water of horizon B and pressurized water of horizons B and D. Well 3 penetrates pressurized water in all horizons, with the exception of horizon A.

Thus, in a small area with a simple geological structure within one aquifer, water can be suspended, unconfined and pressurized.

Wherever the GWL is located, the base of any foundation must be laid with a layer of permeable material, for example sand + crushed stone.

Sand-crushed stone cushion from capillary rise of hot water

Such a cushion breaks off the capillary rise of groundwater.

Capillary rise of hot water

Below we will look at how to waterproof foundations of various types and the features inherent in each type.

Waterproofing slab foundation

Slab foundation

It is recommended to waterproof the slab foundation with rolled roofing felt. The waterproofing is placed on the foundation slab. If its surface is uneven, then a leveling screed is first made. Insulation is laid on top of the waterproofing, a screed is made over it, and the floor covering is placed on the screed.

Waterproofing strip foundation

Strip foundations can be waterproofed in various ways.

1. Coating with bitumen mastic.

Coating with bitumen mastic

The most economical option. Suitable in such cases: protecting the foundation from possible capillary rise of ground water, protecting the foundation from possible penetration of surface water. Coating waterproofing does not protect against pressure water, since it cannot withstand a rise of more than 2 meters. This waterproofing is most often and easily damaged, and therefore most often leaks, since it cannot withstand shear and tensile loads. Therefore, such waterproofing must be applied to a flat surface, which must be previously dried, the corners of the house must be rounded, and the waterproofing must also be protected from mechanical damage. Such waterproofing is usually damaged when the pit is backfilled with backfill soil, which often contains construction debris (stones, fragments of reinforcement, glass, etc. debris).

You can protect:

EPS insulation (considering that the foundation should be insulated to the level of soil freezing);

EPS waterproofing protection

roll geotextiles, can be needle-punched, it is cheaper than thermally bonded ones, the required density is at least 180 g/m2;
a pressure wall made of brick, this is sometimes done, but the option is quite labor-intensive and expensive, so it is inferior to the two waterproofing protection options described above;
If the pit is backfilled with soft soil without debris, for example sand, then it is enough to protect the waterproofing only at the corners of the house, with strips of geotextile 20 cm wide.

2. Waterproofing with roll material.

Waterproofing with roll material

The most commonly used roll material is roofing felt. This is a slightly more expensive option than coating waterproofing, but more durable and durable. If the backfill soil does not contain debris, then such waterproofing may not be protected. The surface of the foundation must be level. The foundation is treated with hot bitumen mastic, onto which at least 2 layers of roofing material are glued with an overlap of 10-20 cm.

3. Sprayed waterproofing.

Sprayed waterproofing

Very easy and quick to apply with a special sprayer. Easily repeats all the unevenness of the foundation, does not require special surface preparation, except for cleaning from dust. More expensive material than conventional bitumen mastic. It requires mandatory reinforcement with thermally bonded geotextile material with a density of at least 130 g/m2, which simultaneously performs a protective function for this waterproofing. The material is quite expensive and it is economically beneficial to use it for foundations of complex shapes (which are difficult to cover with rolled material) or for foundations laid very close to another building (that is, if it is very inconvenient to waterproof such a foundation due to the lack of free access to it).

In addition to the methods described, you can perform waterproofing by applying 25-30 mm of cement mortar at a water pressure of up to 20 m.

Waterproofing with cement mortar

It is also possible to waterproof the foundation with various penetrating waterproofing materials (a mixture of cement, quartz sand and active additives), which protects the foundation from excess moisture and some chemical compounds (depending on the brand of waterproofing), but such material is quite expensive.

Penetrating waterproofing

Waterproofing the foundation for a foundation pit with 90° walls.

Pit with a wall slope of 90 degrees

Sometimes the foundation is built close to the walls of the pit; this is the only possible option under cramped construction conditions. In this case, the pit is built with walls at an angle of 90°, pressure walls are erected close to the walls of the pit, and waterproofing material is nailed to them (or first drainage and then waterproofing, depending on the groundwater level). The formwork is installed at a distance from the pressure wall equal to the width of the future foundation. And into the resulting formwork (on one side there is a pressure wall with waterproofing, on the other - just formwork), pre-tied reinforcement is laid and the foundation is poured. The pressure wall with waterproofing in this case is called “lost formwork”, since it is not removed, but remains in the ground If in cramped conditions a foundation is built from blocks, then the blocks are laid at a short distance from the pressure wall and the resulting distance between the block foundation and the waterproofed pressure wall is filled with mortar.

Protecting walls from capillary rising moisture

Capillary rise of moisture

Anti-capillary waterproofing in walls is laid on a plinth, which usually ends at a level of 15-50 cm above ground level. The surface of the base is pre-leveled, dried and covered with a layer of bitumen mastic. Then 2 layers of roofing material are laid. This type of waterproofing is called a continuous flashing and must completely penetrate the entire thickness of the wall and the interior plaster.

Protecting walls from capillary rising moisture

Waterproofing of columnar and pile foundations

Waterproofing of pile foundations is done using a grillage. It is extremely difficult to waterproof piles and pillars; it will take a lot of time and effort in the case of pillars and is almost impossible in the case of piles. Therefore, it is recommended to make such pillars or piles from moisture-resistant concrete grade W4 and higher for non-aggressive HS and from grade W6 and higher for aggressive ones.

The foundation of wooden piles must be treated with an anti-corrosion solution.

Wooden pile foundation

At the same time, it is important to remember that it is not advisable to carry out measures to lower the groundwater level, i.e. make any drainage, since wooden piles do not rot only when they are completely in water. Otherwise, there is a high risk of reducing their service life.

Basement waterproofing

The base from the outside to the level of the continuous laying (10-50 cm from the ground level) must be waterproofed in order to protect the wall of the house from surface water. The fact is that the average height of the snow cover is usually 10-50 cm, and raindrops bouncing off the blind area most of all wet 10-50 cm from the ground level. That is why the base must be lined with a waterproof material, such as water-repellent tiles.

Basement waterproofing

For a house with a basement, it is necessary to have a waterproof blind area, which will reduce the flow of surface water to the basement walls.

The basement floor is waterproofed using concrete preparation. Waterproofing made from 2 layers of rolled bitumen material is very suitable for these purposes.

The basement walls are waterproofed according to the same principle as a strip foundation, as described above. Also, waterproofing made from bentonite mats is very effective for basement waterproofing.

Bentonite mats

This is a modern compact analogue of the classic clay castle. The material is bentonite enclosed on both sides in textile material. Easy to install, it replaces 1 meter of clay (classic clay castle).

If the groundwater in the area is pressure, and you need to do drainage around the perimeter of the basement, it is very important to remember that the drainage begins to work only from the moment the water from the drainage material (falling further into the drainage pipes at the base of the foundation) begins to be discharged, for example, into a storm sewer . Until this moment, there may even be water standing in the pit, despite the fact that all drainage materials have already been laid.

I would like to draw your attention - do not skimp on waterproofing the basement and do it very carefully. And if you hire builders for this work, then carefully control this stage. Because this is the type of work that is quite difficult to fix when leaks already appear. After all, to repair the waterproofing of the basement, you have to re-tear the foundation pit. And by this time, the blind area is often already standing and the surrounding areas are partially inhabited. Therefore, basement waterproofing should be taken very seriously.

If it so happens that for some reason the basement begins to leak, then the best option would be to re-dig the foundation pit and replace completely or partially damaged waterproofing. If it is not possible to dig a pit, for example due to the density of the building, then waterproofing can be done from inside the basement. But in this case, the walls will unfortunately continue to get wet, despite the fact that they will look dry from the inside of the basement.

Materials that should not be used to waterproof the foundation and basement

The foundation and basement cannot be waterproofed with roofing films (waterproofing, vapor barrier) and membranes, including windproof ones. These materials are too thin and are designed for loose installation with sagging (they cannot even be pulled). In addition, films and membranes will not withstand friction against the surface of the foundation due to constant seasonal soil movements, not to mention the fact that they are not designed to protect against pressure groundwater. Therefore, their use for waterproofing foundations and basements is impractical.
It is not economically feasible to use materials with UV stabilization for these purposes, for example, a UV stabilized PVC membrane. Since UV-resistant materials are more expensive, this function simply will not be used underground.

In this article, we examined the features of waterproofing various types of foundations, as well as basements and plinths, which will help you protect the underlying structures of your home from getting wet and extend their service life.

Note: Attached are regulatory documents that describe the issue of waterproofing the foundation, basement and plinth from a regulatory point of view.

The basis of any structure is its fundamental basis. It is this part that bears the load of the entire overlying structure. The strength, reliability and quality of the foundation guarantee the durability of the erected building and a comfortable stay in it. However, to create a solid foundation, correct calculations and adherence to construction technology are not enough. It is very important to properly organize the protection of the fundamental basis from the negative effects of external factors, among which the main enemy is water.

This article can be called a review material, since in it the methods of foundation waterproofing will be described for informational purposes, and detailed step-by-step guides can be accessed using the links provided in the article.

Types of base waterproofing

Protection of the foundation from the negative effects of moisture is carried out in two directions:

Waterproofing of horizontal surfaces.
Waterproofing of vertical surfaces.

Horizontal waterproofing protects similar planes from the penetration of soil moisture at the capillary and molecular level. The need to carry out such measures arises when the groundwater level is sufficiently high.

Protection of horizontal surfaces of the base is carried out in several stages, one of the important measures in this case is the creation of a drainage system (read in detail), with the help of which excess ground moisture is removed from the base of the foundation. Also, horizontal waterproofing involves installing a special cushion, the size of which should slightly exceed the parameters of the base (more details in the article). In other words, with this method of protection, immediately before the construction of the foundation, a kind of barrier is created that prevents the penetration of moisture into the supporting structure of the building. The last step in horizontal waterproofing is the application of protective compounds to the upper section of the foundation. In this case, an obstacle is created for moisture, which can penetrate the walls of the building at the capillary level.

When creating vertical protection for the foundation, the main attention is paid to methods that will prevent the impact of atmospheric moisture through the soil layer adjacent to the vertical surfaces.

Water does not have a destructive effect directly on concrete, which is the basis of any foundation; it even increases its strength characteristics. But with poor-quality construction of the foundation or with the slightest deviation from construction technology, micropores can form in the foundation cavity into which water penetrates. In winter, the smallest particles of moisture freeze and expand, resulting in further destruction. Also, water penetrating into the foundation cavity causes the main damage to the reinforcement, which, like all metal products, loses its strength characteristics under the influence of moisture.

Basic waterproofing technologies

To maintain the integrity and performance characteristics of the foundation, the structure should be fully protected from harmful factors. There are several technologies for waterproofing the base, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Coating bitumen insulation

Bitumen mastic is the most popular and affordable waterproofing material. The advantages of using this material include the following:

Elasticity of the applied layer.
There are no joints, which increases the reliability of protection.
Complete clogging of micropores in concrete.
Long service life.
Acceptable price.

Among the disadvantages of bitumen, the following characteristics attract attention:

Poor resistance to low and high temperatures. When heated above 60 degrees, the mastic begins to melt and flow down a vertical surface, and when the temperature drops to -15 degrees, the material simply cracks.
The mastic is applied to the surface of the foundation only when hot, therefore, special conditions are required for high-quality waterproofing.

When choosing bitumen mastic to protect the foundation from moisture, it is important to pay attention to the following:

Operating temperature.
Material service life.
Qualitative characteristics.

It should be taken into account that not all bitumen-based mastics can be used as a waterproofing material. In addition, such protection is not recommended for use in areas with high groundwater levels. This is explained by the fact that under the influence of moisture, the service life of bitumen mastic is significantly reduced.

To work with bitumen-based mastic, you should purchase brushes with stiff bristles, since the material has a rather viscous structure. Coating bitumen waterproofing in most cases is applied in two layers, with each subsequent application performed after the first coating has completely dried.

Waterproofing with liquid rubber

One of the means of waterproofing foundation walls is liquid rubber. Such protection has many advantages, among which the following stand out:

High degree of reliability.
Durability of the applied layer.
Creating a monolithic layer.
Resistance to temperature changes.
Easy installation.

The disadvantage of liquid rubber is its rather high cost compared to other waterproofing materials. In addition, the material can be applied to the surface only with special equipment. Despite the ease of installation, the process requires quite a lot of time.

Waterproofing the foundation surface with liquid rubber is carried out in one or two layers. It depends on the brand of material and its quality. During the spraying process, rubber fills microcracks and pores in concrete, thereby increasing the service life of the base.

Making a Clay Castle

A clay castle consists of tightly compacted layers of clay laid along the foundation walls. Such waterproofing is most often used as additional protection against the penetration of groundwater into the basement of a house.

The advantages of a clay castle include the following characteristics:

A reliable barrier against water reaching the basement.
Availability and low cost of basic material.
Simple technology.

The disadvantages of this method of protection are more significant, so you should also be aware of them.

Firstly, clay itself is not able to completely prevent the penetration of water, so additional protection is required.

Secondly, the clay layer freezes at low temperatures, which leads to an increase in the volume of the material. This can cause the foundation of the house to collapse.

Based on this, we can say that it is better not to use this method for critical buildings. It is suitable for small outbuildings.

Membrane type waterproofing

One of the modern materials used to protect the foundation from the negative effects of moisture is a waterproofing membrane. This material is made from various types of polyethylene with the addition of polymers, antioxidants and mineral components. Thanks to this composition, the performance characteristics of the material are at a fairly high level.

The waterproofing membrane has a great advantage over other materials of this type:

Resistance to ultraviolet radiation and various aggressive environments.
Durability.
Safety for human health.
Maintains elasticity at any air temperature.

The membrane is attached to the foundation surface in different ways:

Using special glue or tape. The sheets are laid overlapping, and the joints are heated with a blowtorch and glued together.
A self-adhesive membrane has one side covered with a special adhesive composition and a protective film. During the gluing process, the protection is removed and the membrane is pressed against the walls of the foundation.
The profiled type membrane is secured using dowels with profiled washers. Thanks to this, the tightness of the connection between the sheets of waterproofing material is achieved.

One of the most reliable and simplest ways to protect the foundation from moisture is the use of rolled materials, which include roofing felt. Among the advantages of this material, the following characteristics clearly stand out:

Quite low cost.
Convenient and simple installation process.
Creating reliable protection against moisture penetration.
Long service life; practice shows that waterproofing with roofing felt can last up to half a century.

As for the disadvantages of roll waterproofing, we can confidently say that there are no particularly significant points in this case.

Roofing felt is laid in vertical and horizontal rows. In the first case, installation work is carried out easier and faster, but when the sheets of waterproofing material are mounted horizontally, the protection is of a higher quality.

Reliable waterproofing is ensured due to two points:

The surface is coated with a layer of bitumen mastic, which guarantees additional protection.
The process of attaching roofing felt is accompanied by heating the strips using a gas burner, due to which the waterproofing material is firmly glued to the surface of the foundation.

Read about one of the most popular waterproofing materials in articles and.

Protecting the fundamental basis of the structure from moisture penetration is a very important point. However, with the right choice of waterproofing method and appropriate materials, the entire process can be done with your own hands.

Everyone who, one way or another, has encountered construction, knows what a foundation is and how much the quality of the entire construction depends on it. It is from the foundation that all destruction begins, and it is on the foundation that all adversity and natural disasters fall day after day.

The first and most important enemy of any buildings and especially foundations is water; it is water that causes destruction and salt ledges, which also accelerate the destruction process. Therefore, it is so important to produce high-quality and reliable waterproofing, as well as select materials for it.

Since there are a lot of materials for waterproofing, before making a choice, you should carefully study all the features of the soil on which the foundation stands. First of all, the following factors should be considered:

The approximate depth at which groundwater flows.
The volume of soil swelling during the period of soil freezing in spring.
The type and characteristics of the soil, as well as its homogeneity, that is, find out what components the soil consists of.
The type of construction and how the building will be used.

Important ! Today there are many special additives that are added to the cement mortar before pouring the foundation. It should be remembered that they cannot act as complete waterproofing, but they significantly improve the characteristics of the solution and extend the service life of the foundation.

Types of waterproofing materials for foundations

The factors listed above should be taken into account as follows: the closer to the surface the groundwater lies, the more protection and waterproofing the foundation needs. The same applies to soil mobility in the spring. If the ground has large vibrations, this indicates that the ground is saturated with moisture, which means that multi-layer waterproofing is required with preliminary laying of geotextile material in the trench before pouring the foundation.

The composition of the soil is also very important, since, for example, sandy soil practically does not absorb water and quickly releases it to depth. Unlike, say, alumina, which not only absorbs a large amount of water, but also does not allow it to dry out for a long time.

Deep penetration waterproofing impregnation

This waterproofing material visually resembles a conventional primer for interior work, but unlike it, it has a more durable composition and thick consistency.

Impregnation protects the foundation from the appearance of efflorescence and fills all microcracks in the concrete, preventing water from accumulating in them and freezing in winter. By the way, impregnation is rarely used as the main and only material for waterproofing, since in the Russian climate you rarely find areas with a minimum of annual precipitation, and it is in such an environment that this material can be used.

Waterproofing plaster for foundation

This method of strengthening the foundation is considered more effective than impregnation, but also rarely acts as the main insulator. Most often, such plaster is used as a surface decorative layer, when waterproofing has already been done underneath it, and the plaster solution only strengthens it.

The peculiarity of such plasters is that they contain special additives and plasticizers, which significantly improve all technical characteristics of the material and affect its service life in difficult conditions. Of course, such a composition of the mixture cannot but affect the price, but considering that a simple cement mortar will have to be redone in a maximum of a couple of years, the cost does not seem so high.

Bitumen coating

Waterproofing bitumen has been used in construction and repair for decades, and over all these years its composition has not undergone significant changes. This material retains moisture well, and at the same time does not decompose even with constant contact with water.

The use of bitumen mastic is necessary when waterproofing foundations and roofs, even if it is not used as the main material. It is used to seal joints and possible cracks that often appear on concrete, especially if it was not allowed to fully settle and further construction began.

Waterproofing with bitumen is very easy to do with your own hands; you just need to melt it in a container and cover all the necessary places with a brush.

Interesting ! Today in stores you can find mastic ready for application in liquid form. In terms of quality, it is absolutely not inferior to its solid counterpart, and working with it is much easier. The only and most significant difference between liquid bitumen is its price, which is much higher.

Rolled foundation insulation

The most popular and effective method of waterproofing a foundation is roll materials. Outwardly, they are very similar to the well-known roofing material, but unlike it, they contain special components that extend their service life.

Today in stores you can also find roofing felt, which costs much less, but here are just a few factors that qualitatively distinguish roll waterproofing:

More resistant to moisture penetration due to the presence of resistant polymers in the composition.
Does not fade in the sun and does not crack over time.
Accepts all curves and shapes of the base, creating high-quality coverage and insulation.
More resistant to mechanical damage, which often falls on foundations.
It has the ability to “breathe”, that is, without letting moisture in, it completely expels it out without allowing condensation to accumulate.
Creates additional insulation and prevents the formation of cold bridges inside the room.

Roll insulators, in turn, can be divided into two types:

Option number two is considered more preferable, since the coating is uniform and uniform, although working with this material is somewhat more difficult. At a minimum, you will need experience and a set of tools.

Of course, if you wish, you can apply weld-on roll insulation with your own hands, and you can see how the whole process happens in the video

Rubber insulation

The most durable, at the same time expensive way to waterproof a foundation. It consists in applying a layer of liquid rubber to the surface, which not only covers the surface, but also penetrates into all the pores of the concrete base, becoming, as it were, one with it.

The complexity of the entire application process lies in the fact that this requires the presence of a special tool, without which the work simply will not work.

Today, many companies are engaged in such insulation, to which you can safely entrust this work.

To summarize all of the above, here is a small table that clearly shows the quality characteristics and features of all materials:

Materials	Specifications
Materials	Moisture resistance	Vapor permeability	Durability	Additional frost protection	Resistant to high temperatures and cracking
Impregnation
Plaster

Roll insulation
Liquid rubber

Methods and methods of application

Regardless of what material is chosen for foundation waterproofing, there are two types of application:

The first method is used to protect surfaces located horizontally, that is, other materials will subsequently be laid on them. Many often neglect this type of insulation, believing that the inside of the foundation is already protected from water and moisture, but this is far from the case.

Horizontal surfaces are also susceptible to cracking, and perhaps this will not be noticeable under further finishing, but then it will lead to irreversible consequences, or, more simply put, it will accelerate the destruction of the entire foundation, which will begin to give increased settlement and entail walls and other structural elements of the house.

As for vertical insulation, we are talking about protecting the visible parts that are most exposed to negative natural influences. Experts advise not to skimp on materials and time in this case, and to use all types of insulation, from deep penetration primer to roll or rubber insulation.

Water destroys the building structures, rendering them unusable and reducing their service life. This is especially true for the underground part of the house, which is exposed to several types of moisture at once. Outside, rain and melt water have a destructive effect on it, and in the soil, groundwater causes trouble, the level of which can vary depending on the season. Waterproofing methods for the foundation of a building depend on its type and method of manufacture (installation of tape, slab, pillars or piles).

How does moisture affect

There are several ways in which water can lead to the destruction of a concrete foundation:

Washing out of particles from the structure, formation of irregularities and potholes due to aggressive components in rain or groundwater.
Destruction when water penetrates into the body of the foundation and freezes there. The fact is that water is the only substance on the planet that, when entering a frozen state, expands and does not decrease in volume. Getting into the capillaries, it puts strong pressure on the foundation from the inside, which leads to the appearance of cracks and crevices.

That is why waterproofing the foundation is important and should be carried out immediately after the construction of the structure.

Types of moisture protection by location

In general, the foundation waterproofing device is divided into three groups:

horizontal;
vertical;
blind area device.

Depending on the type of base, several methods can be used simultaneously.

Combined moisture protection

Horizontal is designed to prevent moisture from penetrating between different levels. It can be made of various materials. Provided for all types of foundations (strip, slab, pillars, piles).

Vertical is needed so that groundwater cannot influence the foundation. Not all types of grounds require such protection. Required only for strip and column supports of the house. Horizontal protection is provided for all types (strip, slab or free-standing supports).

The blind area protects the base from the penetration of rainwater and melted snow in the spring. Here the width of the structure is essential. If it is insufficient, the moisture will be removed a short distance and will be able to reach the foundation. This type of protection reduces the load on all others, allowing them to increase their service life.

Vertical and horizontal insulation

Waterproofing with roll material

Foundation waterproofing can be done using different means of protection. Separately, it is worth considering vertical and horizontal types and the design of the blind area, since the materials in these cases will vary quite significantly.

Protection of the recessed part of the building with vertical and horizontal insulation suggests that materials can be used in the following ways:

pasting;
coating;
penetrating;
plastering;
injection;
mounted;
structural (additives to concrete).

It is worth separately understanding what material to use in each case.

Pasting

This type of structure protection is carried out using roll versions with bitumen binder. Fused or bonded material may be used. Fused types imply the presence of an adhesive layer, which is heated at high temperatures and adheres to the surface. To attach insulation to the base without an adhesive layer, you will need to use bitumen mastic as a connecting substance.

Pasting materials include:

The use of roofing felt is the most common method

roofing felt(the material is outdated and it is not recommended to use it to protect critical house structures, but it is worth noting its low cost);
glassine(waterproofing the foundation based on thick thick cardboard, which is impregnated with bitumen binder, cannot be classified as a reliable and durable method, but it will allow significant savings);
roofing felt(remains the leader among roll insulation due to its affordable price, service life is quite short);
polymer materials impregnated with bitumen, fiberglass or polyester base(here we can give as an example the following common options for protecting the walls and foundations of a house from moisture: “Linokrom”, “Gidroizol”, “TechnoNIKOL”, “Stekloizol”, “Bikrost”, etc.).

The last group is the most reliable option, but the price of such material can be quite high.

But here it is worth taking into account their long service life, which will reduce the frequency of repairs. The advantages of the pasting method include the fact that it can be used for various surfaces:

concrete;
tree;
metal;
asphalt concrete;
old waterproofing coating (during repairs).

Coating insulation

In this case, waterproofing the foundation is most often performed using bitumen mastics. To protect the buried part of the building and the walls of the house, one-component and two-component compounds are used. In addition to bitumen, you can now find more reliable and modern options on the building materials market:

polymer resins;
bitumen-polymer resins;
bitumen-rubber mastics.

Unlike regular bitumen, which cracks at low temperatures, these mixtures with additional additives are resistant to cold. The disadvantage of more modern options is their price, which cannot compete with conventional bitumen-based mastic. The latter is best used to protect house structures with deep groundwater.

Penetrating insulation

Waterproofing the foundation in this way prevents moisture from entering the concrete capillaries. This increases the strength of the surface layer of concrete. Waterproofing a strip foundation in this way is often carried out using an additional coating or adhesive layer.

On average, the penetration depth is 15-25 cm, but some materials can go as deep as 90 cm. It is important to note that such methods are only suitable for concrete. They are useless when used on brick and stone.

The most common compositions for this steel processing method are:

"Penetron";
"Peneplug";
"Hydrohit";
"Penecritus."
"Osmosed."

Protecting the concrete base from moisture

The technology of protecting the foundations and walls of a house in this way implies a thoroughly cleaned, degreased and level base, therefore it is recommended for use on new buildings.

Paint and plaster insulation

Do-it-yourself foundation waterproofing using painting and plastering compounds is not durable or reliable. If possible, it is better to give preference to other methods of protecting the foundations and walls of a house, since the average service life of such materials is 5 years.

Injection insulation

Technique for introducing polyurethane resin into the base

This option is suitable for repairing a foundation that has already been put into operation. The technology allows you to protect the foundation without performing soil excavation work. Injectors are inserted into the supports and deliver an insulating substance. The following materials can be used as raw materials:

foam;
resins;
acrylate gels;
rubber;
cement-containing mixtures;
polymer compositions.

Mounted insulation

Waterproofing the foundation in this way allows you to most effectively combat high groundwater levels and their high pressure. It is mainly used for strip foundations when it is necessary to protect an underground room.

The most reliable method of installed waterproofing can be called a steel caisson. In this case, the structure of the walls and floor of the basement is sheathed from the inside with sheets of steel 4-6 mm thick. The option is very expensive, so it is extremely rarely used.

Brick walls are sometimes erected outside, but in most cases this method is used in conjunction with the pasting or coating option. Brick is more likely not to protect the foundation from moisture, but to protect waterproofing from mechanical damage.

Blind area device

Do-it-yourself foundation waterproofing in this case involves using the following blind area materials to protect the structure from the outside from atmospheric moisture:

Making a blind area

concrete;
asphalt concrete;
clay;
paving slabs;
diffusion membranes.

The choice of method for making a blind area depends on the preferences of the future owner of the house, the architectural design and the availability of materials. The cheapest option for a blind area would be to lay it out of concrete or asphalt. This option does not have an attractive appearance, but it allows you to protect the foundation without much labor. In addition, savings are achieved on raw materials for manufacturing. The construction of a blind area made of concrete or asphalt is popular in the mass construction of multi-apartment residential buildings and administrative and public buildings.

Waterproofing technology depending on the type of foundation

Each type of building support requires certain protection options. Before waterproofing the foundation, you need to find out what is required for the full range of measures.

Strip foundation protection

Waterproofing of strip foundations differs for monolithic and prefabricated versions. First, let's look at the prefabricated version. To prevent damage to the underground walls of the house and flooding of the basement, the following measures will be required:

installation of a reinforced seam between factory-made foundation slabs and concrete blocks of the basement walls;
laying rolled material in the first seam between the blocks, which is located below the basement floor level;
the rolled material is mounted along the edge of the foundation at the junction of the walls and the supporting structure;
vertical insulation of the underground part of the tape from the outside;
blind area device.

Belt protection

It is important to note that at the junction of foundation slabs and concrete blocks, materials based on bitumen binder cannot be laid. This can lead to displacement of elements relative to each other. Here, only a thickened concrete joint is suitable. Insulation along the edge of the foundation is necessary so that different moisture content of the material of the supporting parts of the building and wall fences does not lead to destruction. For horizontal insulation, pasting methods are used.

Vertical insulation is best done from the outside, since this will not only protect the room, but also the load-bearing elements. During new construction, walls can be treated with pasting or coating materials. Repair work is being carried out from the inside. In this case, the penetrating or injection type is used.

If you need to carry out a set of waterproofing works for a monolithic tape, then it is worth considering the following measures:

vertical insulation;
waterproofing along the edge of the foundation;
blind area device.

Materials are selected in the same way as for the prefabricated version.

Protection of columnar and pile foundations

A simple method of moisture protection

The simplest type of moisture protection is used here. You only need to make insulation along the edge of the foundation. Its location depends on the material of the grillage. If the piping is made of the same material as the foundation, then the roll materials are laid at the point of contact between the grillage and the walls. You may want to consider another option. For example, a wooden house rests on metal piles. In this case, the lower crown of the walls will serve as a grillage, so the insulating layer is laid on the heads of the supporting elements.

Foundation slab protection

To protect against moisture, the following measures will need to be taken:

concrete preparation from lean concrete to protect the slab from underground water and leveling the base;
waterproofing for concrete preparation;
protection from external moisture.

Waterproofing of the foundation slab

To produce the second layer when constructing a slab, roll methods are used. It is best to focus on modern materials, since after pouring the slab, it is almost impossible to monitor the condition of such insulation or carry out repairs. For small buildings with a low degree of responsibility and low water saturation of the soil, polyethylene film is often used.

To protect the slab from moisture that may enter from above, it must be treated with penetrating compounds. Sometimes in private housing construction they resort to using the following method: a solution for penetrating insulation is introduced into the concrete composition.

Also, after pouring the slab, it will be necessary to provide for the laying of rolled material in places where the walls support.

Before you properly waterproof the foundation (slab strips, piles, pillars), you need to carefully study the issue. It is important to use high-quality materials. If you save at this stage of construction, you can spend a large amount of money on repairs during operation.

The stability and integrity of the entire structure directly depend on the strength and durability of the foundation. erected on this basis the building, and even, to a certain extent, the safety of the people living in it. That is why special attention is always paid to the process of constructing the foundation part of a building, and only the best building materials are used for this.

However, no matter what high-strength materials have not been used at the “zero cycle”, they all have a common ruthless “enemy” - water, in one or another state of aggregation. Moisture can reduce the strength of the structure being created in a relatively short time, so do-it-yourself waterproofing is the most important stage in the independent construction of your own home, which should never be overlooked.

Why is moisture dangerous for the foundation?

The water that is familiar to all of us, seemingly completely harmless to an amateur’s eye, can cause a lot of trouble to the foundation of a building:

Firstly, it is known that water has the ability to significantly increase in volume when it transforms into a solid state - when it freezes. Penetrating into micropores and cracks of even the most durable structure when temperatures drop below 0º C, it is capable of expanding them, increasing in size, and sometimes literally tearing them into separate fragments.

Secondly, water on the surface of the earth, contained in the upper layers of soil and even drop-down in the form of precipitation is never clean. It is always saturated in one concentration or another with very aggressive chemical compounds - industrial emissions, agricultural chemicals, waste oil products, car exhaust, etc. Such substances cause surface erosion of concrete, from which it loses its strength and begins to crumble.

Thirdly, these same chemical compounds plus dissolved In water, oxygen activates corrosion processes on the reinforcement grid. Not only does the inherent strength of the entire reinforced structure decrease, it leads to the formation of internal cavities in the thickness of the material and ultimately ends in delamination of the upper layers of concrete.
And fourthly, we must not forget that What water has a pronounced leaching property (how can one not remember the proverb - « water wears away stones). Constant exposure to even pure chemical water is always associated with the gradual washing away of foundation material particles from the surface, the formation of surface sinks, cavities, etc.

Water in the soil adjacent to the foundation can be in different layers and in different states:

The upper, so-called filtration layer is water that falls with precipitation, formed from melting snow or simply from an external spill (usage water for domestic and agricultural purposes, accidental bursts of highways, etc.). Sometimes, if a high-lying waterproof layer gets in the way of absorption, then in a certain limited area a fairly stable horizon can form - perched water.

The saturation of the upper filtration layer of water is always highly dependent on the time of year, established weather, and amount of precipitation and is not a constant value. In addition to high-quality waterproofing, a well-thought-out storm drainage system will play an important role in reducing the impact of moisture from this layer on the foundation of the building.

The upper layers of the soil always contain soil (ground) moisture, which is constantly retained there due to capillarity or the adhesive properties of the soil. Its concentration is quite constant and depends very little on the level of precipitation, time of year and etc.. It does not exert any dynamic, leaching loads on the foundation, and its negative impact is limited to capillary penetration into materials and chemical “aggression”.

To counteract ground moisture, a waterproof layer of waterproofing is sufficient. True, in excessively wet areas of the area, with a tendency to waterlogging, it will be necessary to provide a water drainage system.

Underground groundwater is the upper aquifers characteristic of a particular area and its topography. The depth of their occurrence depends on the location of the water-resistant soil layers, and the filling capacity is quite strongly influenced by seasonal factors - abundant snow melting, prolonged rains or, conversely, established drought.

The depth of these aquifers and its seasonal fluctuations can be clearly observed in the nearest well - ordinary or technological drainage. In addition to direct penetration into the thickness of the foundation material, these waters can also exert hydrostatic pressure on the buried part of the structure. If such layers are located at a high level, the maximum amount of waterproofing work will be required, with the obligatory installation of an effective drainage system around the building.

What types of waterproofing are used to protect the foundation?

In order to prevent the negative impact of moisture on the foundation, the following types of waterproofing and other construction and installation works are used:

Giving construction materials with additional water-repellent properties.
Creation waterproof coatings on the vertical walls of the foundation, from its base to the top edge of the base.
Reliable waterproofing of horizontal interlevel seams, preventing capillary upward penetration of moisture.
Reliable protection of the waterproofing itself from external mechanical influences.
Measures to reduce the negative impact of negative temperatures.
Installation of a drainage system around the house.
Creation of a reliable system for draining rain and melt water - drainage and storm sewerage.
Ensuring reliable ventilation of basements and basements.

The proposed figure shows, as an example, a possible general scheme for waterproofing the foundation of a building:

The diagrams are marked with numbers:

1 – the base of the foundation, which usually rests on a compacted sand and gravel bed. Between it and the vertical wall of the foundation (2) there must be a cut-off horizontal waterproofing (4), which overlaps with the insulating layer arranged in basement floor rooms (4) between the base and the screed.

The outer vertical wall has a coating waterproofing coating (5), additionally protected by a waterproof membrane (7) and covered with a layer of geotextile (8), which protects against abrasive and other mechanical effects.

The upper edge of the plinth (foundation wall) is also necessarily covered with waterproofing roll material (6), on top of which further construction of the walls and ceilings of the building will be carried out.

To remove moisture, a drainage system is provided - pipes (9) laid around the perimeter at the level of the base of the foundation in a gravel cage. For more reliable protection against water from precipitation entering deep into the soil, it is advisable to build a clay castle around the house (10).

In areas with a harsh climate, severe freezing of the upper layers of the soil, or in the case where residential or utility premises are planned to be located in the basement or basement, the waterproofing system of the foundation and basement is complemented by a system for their insulation:

The diagram in general terms repeats the one posted above, so the main numbering of parts and assemblies is preserved. In addition shown:

1.1 – sand and gravel cushion under the base of the foundation. This layer can also be made of lean concrete with coarse-grained filling.

12 – insulating panels made of extruded polystyrene foam, installed externally on top of rolled waterproofing along the entire height of the foundation and basement walls.

13 – plaster layer of the basement finishing. Currently, special base thermal panels are often used instead - they provide both insulation and reliable protection from direct exposure to water.

14 – wall of the building being erected. The figure clearly shows that it begins to be laid from the layer of horizontal cut-off waterproofing of the foundation.

The choice of a specific type of waterproofing, and therefore the materials used for it, largely depends on the specific purpose of the room located in the basement. The existing classification (according to BS 8102 standards adopted in Europe) divides them into four classes:

The first, lowest class is utility or technical premises that are not equipped with electrical networks. They tolerate wet spots or even small leaks. The wall thickness must be at least 150 mm.
The second class also includes technical or utility rooms, but already equipped with ventilation, in which only wet fumes are allowed, without the formation of damp spots, with a wall thickness of at least 200 mm. It is already permitted to install electrical appliances of standard mains voltage here.
Third class is the most common, and most of all of interest to individual developers. It includes all residential buildings, offices, retail outlets, and social facilities. The thickness of the walls should not be less than 250 mm; a natural or forced ventilation system is required. No penetration of moisture is allowed.
As a rule, you don’t have to deal with the fourth class of premises when building your own home - these are objects with a specially created microclimate - archival storage facilities, libraries, laboratories and others, where special requirements are imposed on a constant, clearly established level of humidity.

The table below shows the recommended types of waterproofing and the materials used for its installation, indicating its degree of strength, the protection created from one or another effect of groundwater and compatibility with the classes of equipped premises:

Type of waterproofing and materials used	crack resistance	degree of protection against water			room class
		perched water	soil moisture	ground aquifer	1	2	3	4
Modern adhesive waterproofing using polyester-based bitumen membranes	high	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes	No
Waterproofing installed using polymer waterproof membranes	high	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes
Coating waterproofing using polymer or bitumen-polymer mastics	average	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes	No
Flexible coating waterproofing using polymer-cement compositions	average	Yes	No	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes	No
Coating rigid waterproofing based on cement compositions	low	Yes	Not	Yes	Yes	Yes	No	No
Impregnating waterproofing that increases the water-repellent properties of concrete	low	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes	No

After viewing the table, one can make a very erroneous conclusion that, for example, for a residential building, just one type of insulation will be sufficient. Practice shows that this may clearly not be enough, and most often an integrated approach is used, when one type, combined with another, creates a truly reliable waterproof barrier for the foundation.

Horizontal waterproofing of the foundation

It is advisable to start the review with horizontal waterproofing. The fact is that it can be carried out exclusively during the construction of the building. If the vertical one can be carried out even on a fully constructed building, for example, after purchasing a finished house, then it is almost impossible to carry out the overlooked horizontal one - it is always planned in advance. There are, however, modern methods of injection waterproofing, but they are very expensive and still remain only a half-measure aimed at minimizing previously made miscalculations.

The first unique waterproofing level is a compacted sand and gravel cushion under the foundation soles being laid or under the monolithic structure being poured.
If a concrete slab is planned to be poured in a basement or basement room, then its first layer is also made over such a backfill, so that the level is equal in height to the top edge of the laid soles or the first layer of “tape”. Made from lean concrete. This is where the first layer of horizontal waterproofing is laid - the room is completely covered from below from the penetration of soil water. In addition, a barrier is created against the capillary rise of moisture along the walls of the future foundation.

Waterproofing is carried out using roofing felt, adjacent sheets of which are laid with overlaps of 100 - 150 mm, with the obligatory “boiling” of them using a gas burner. If layers of roofing material are combined, laid on the floor and on platforms for further pouring of the foundation tape, then the overlaps are increased to 250 — 300 mm.
It is recommended to spare no expense and perform such insulation even in two layers. In this case, the stripes of the second layer should be oriented perpendicular to the first.

The second “line of defense” against the capillary spread of moisture should be organized at the point where the monolithic foundation (after it is poured) transitions into the basement part, if this is provided for by the project. The importance of this waterproofing layer is clearly demonstrated in the diagram presented:

Location of “boundaries” of cut-off horizontal waterproofing

For such waterproofing, the same roofing material is used, laid on a completely hardened and strengthened concrete base, cleaned of dirt and dust and carefully primed tar mastic. The material is laid in at least two layers by gluing them together with mastic or using a thermal method (fusion).

If the project does not provide for a separate base, and its role will be played by the protruding above-ground part of the monolithic foundation, then this step is understandably skipped. But in any case, exactly the same actions are taken along the upper edge of the foundation or plinth, regardless of whether floor slabs are laid on this basis or walls are built from any material.

Sometimes work on waterproofing the upper horizontal plane of the foundation is combined with similar operations on vertical walls, thereby obtaining one monolithic insulator surface.

Vertical waterproofing of foundation walls and plinth

Vertical waterproofing of foundation walls is a prerequisite for long-term trouble-free operation of the building. When building a new house, it is thought out in advance. It is also carried out on houses that have been built a long time ago - if there are obvious signs that the old waterproofing is clearly not coping with its functions - there are pronounced traces of moisture penetration into the premises, or if when purchasing a house there is no certainty that such work was carried out previously.

Spots like these are a clear warning sign

To carry out such waterproofing work, it will be necessary to expose the foundation walls to the maximum possible depth - right down to its base. During construction, this factor is usually taken into account immediately, leaving the necessary trench around the perimeter - it will be needed both for waterproofing and for installing a drainage system.
On an old building you will have to start with excavation work. First, the concrete blind area around the base is dismantled - using a hammer drill or manually. Then they dig deeper, going deeper to the bottom of the foundation. The width of the trench can be any - the main thing is that it allows you to freely carry out all the necessary actions. Usually a width of up to 1 meter is sufficient.
The walls are thoroughly cleaned of soil residues and inspected.
All loose areas, peelings, and unstable areas must be unconditionally removed. The surface must be cleaned to a monolithic structure.
If a layer of waterproofing is applied to the walls, but its functionality is questionable, then it is also better to completely remove it.

Repair of wall surfaces and their impregnating (penetrating) waterproofing

All cracks and cracks on the surface are cut into rectangular grooves measuring 25 × 25 mm along the entire length. Similar operations are carried out in places of vertical and horizontal joints of reinforced concrete blocks with the removal of old mortar. If the foundation is block or made of brick, the seams are cleaned to the same depth - up to 25 mm.

As a repair composition, we can recommend the specialized waterproofing dry construction mixture “Penecrete”, which is used in combination with the deep penetration primer “Penetron”.

- "Penecritus" has good plasticity, high adhesion to almost all building materials, and after complete hardening it becomes reliable waterproofing agent, firmly “sealing” seams and cracks. It is important that after filling the seams the material does not shrink.

— “Penetron” or other primers of similar action penetrate deeply into the thickness of concrete, forming additional crystalline bonds there, which significantly strengthens the material, and firmly closing the pores, preventing capillary penetration of moisture.

The advantage of these materials is that they are applied to a wet surface, thereby reducing the time required for work - during construction there is no need to wait for the concrete to dry completely.

“Penecrete” is prepared in the usual way - like any dry construction mixture, using a construction mixer or drill with an attachment, in strict accordance with the instructions supplied with it. "Penetron" is sold in a ready-to-use form.

So, all cut cracks, joints and seams are first moistened with ordinary water, and then primed"Penetron".
Then, they are filled as tightly as possible, without leaving air “pockets”, with a repair composition - “penecrete” to the general level of the wall.
After setting of the repair mortar over the entire surface The outer wall of the foundation must be moistened (you can use a hose with a spray nozzle) and covered in two layers with the same deep penetration soil.
If possible, then That Exactly the same operations are carried out on the internal walls of the foundation.

The created system of protection against moisture penetration is quite effective. There is even an opinion that she can single-handedly cope with the tasks of foundation waterproofing, and, carried out even on one side of the wall. Nevertheless, it is still better to use such an impregnation technology as the main one only from the inside and on the part of the foundation or plinth protruding above the surface of the earth. On the outside, it is still worth playing it safe and protecting the walls in the area of their direct contact with the ground with additional waterproof layers.

Video: using penetrating waterproofing of the Penetrat system

Coating vertical waterproofing of foundation

Coating waterproofing of foundation walls is perhaps the most widespread technology among private developers. It is quite simple to implement - almost anyone can do it, does not require excessively high material costs, and does not take much time.

To work you will need:

— Bitumen primer - it can be purchased in a ready-made form at the store (bitumen primers). It is not difficult to make it yourself - bitumen heated to a fluid state is mixed with a solvent, which is most often used as gasoline. The weight ratio of gasoline to bitumen should be approximately 1:3 ÷ 1:4. It is important that when preparing the primer, bitumen is poured into gasoline, and not vice versa. The composition should have an even liquid consistency, similar to regular paint.

Prices for waterproofing for foundations

Waterproofing for foundation

Step-by-step instructions for waterproofing a foundation with self-adhesive bitumen-polymer material “Technoelast-Barrier (BO)”

The table below provides illustrated step-by-step instructions for performing waterproofing work on the foundation using a roll of self-adhesive material on a bitumen-polymer base, “Technoelast-Barrier (BO)” from the well-known Russian manufacturer “TechnoNIKOL”.

This rolled material (standard release form is a 20×1 m roll) is designed for waterproofing concrete slab bases, floors, and plinths, with a depth from the ground surface of up to 3 meters, and the absence of high groundwater. The convenience of “Technoelast-Barrier (BO)” is that its use does not require additional equipment, is not associated with “hot” processes, that is, there is no stage of melting using a gas burner - work can be carried out even on a flammable base, in enclosed spaces and limited spaces.

Prices for Technoelast-Barrier

TechnoNIKOL technoelast

Illustration	Brief description of the operation being performed.
	The material itself is a baseless structure, consisting of a top layer - a dense polymer film with the TechnoNIKOL logo printed on it, and a second layer - a bitumen-polymer viscous composite material that has excellent adhesion to prepared substrates. Before installing the material, this adhesive layer is covered with a special protective film backing, which is removed immediately before installation.
	The adhesive bitumen-polymer layer does not need to be subjected to thermal effects - the material is simply glued to the treated surface, and then straightened and rolled using wide brushes, rubber or silicone rollers, or hand rollers. Other tools you will need are a knife for cutting the material, a tape measure, a ruler, a square for taking measurements, marking and cutting, a roller and a brush for preliminary priming of the surface.
	Let's start our consideration with horizontal waterproofing. As already mentioned in the article, this could be, for example, a slab foundation or a floor in a basement or basement. First of all, you need to make sure once again that there are no gross defects on the surface - potholes, cracks, sagging of hardened mortar and other serious flaws. All this must be eliminated - removed or repaired, achieving a flat surface, otherwise the chosen waterproofing method may become ineffective. The rolled material should adhere tightly to the surface over its entire area.
	It is easy to check the evenness of the surface for waterproofing by applying a long rule to it.
	Perfect evenness is not required - it is quite enough if the differences in a two-meter area are no more than 5 millimeters.
	In order for the primer to lay well and evenly on the surface, it must be cleared of small construction debris and dust. To do this, it is carefully swept...
	...and ideally, it is best to clean it and completely remove dust using a powerful construction vacuum cleaner.
	The next step is to apply a primer, that is, a special bitumen composition - a primer. However, there are certain restrictions on the use of various primers, depending on the moisture level of the concrete surface. Residual moisture is measured using a special device - a moisture meter. It is clear that not everyone has such a device. You can get by with a simpler solution - put a 1000x1000 mm polyethylene film on the fully matured concrete surface, gluing it around the perimeter with tape. If after 24 hours there are no drops of condensation on the film, then the concrete can be considered dry, with a residual moisture content of less than 4% by weight.
	In such conditions, you can use TechnoNIKOL primers No. 01 and No. 03 on an organic basis.
	If the residual moisture content of the concrete exceeds 4%, then you can use the water-soluble primer “TechnoNIKOL” No. 04. But even in this case, the humidity cannot be more than 8%, that is, the concrete must fully gain strength and mature. It makes no sense to carry out any waterproofing work on a foundation that has not met the entire period required for maturation.
	The primer is spread thickly and sparingly over the surface using a roller. A consumption of 300÷350 ml per square meter of area is considered normal.
	It is necessary to ensure that the distribution of the primer over the surface is uniform, without “bald spots”. In hard-to-reach places, especially at the intersection of vertical and horizontal surfaces, you cannot do without using a brush.
	It is recommended that after applying the primer there is no long pause before laying the main waterproofing material. The only thing you need to wait for is for the applied primer to dry completely. It’s easy to check - press a regular paper napkin onto the treated surface, which already seems dry. If black marks remain on it, it is too early to proceed to further operations.
	But if the napkin remains clean after such an “experiment”, we can assume that the concrete surface is ready for basic waterproofing work
	The waterproofing roll is delivered to the work site. On a horizontal surface, you can mark a line along which the first strip of material will be laid.
	The outer packaging of the roll is opened and removed as unnecessary.
	The next step is to roll out the Technoelast-Barrier (BO) roll along the entire length of the area to be waterproofed. At the same time, it is necessary to adjust its position so that the spread canvas lies exactly along the intended line. Naturally, the rolling is carried out so that the polymer layer with the logo is at the top, and the protective film backing is at the bottom.
	After rolling out, the sheet is cut in place. It is best to do this along a ruler, using a sharp construction knife.
	After trimming, the canvas spread along its entire length must be carefully rolled from both sides to the center without moving its position. It is more convenient, of course, to perform this and all further operations together, together with an assistant.
	In order to prevent distortions in the direction and creases of the waterproofing material itself when rolling, it is recommended to use old cardboard sleeves as reels for these purposes.
	Now the final laying of the material begins. First, you need to cut the film backing material along the transverse line along the entire width of the roll. This must be done carefully, without pressing the knife, so as not to accidentally cut through the canvas.
	After this, along the cut made, the substrate is separated in a narrow strip from the adhesive surface of the waterproofing, also along the entire width of the roll.
	Now, gradually pulling out the backing film, the roll is finally laid out from the center in one direction. The adhesive bitumen-polymer layer comes into adhesive contact with the concrete surface coated with a bitumen primer.
	It is more advisable to do the work together: one worker, pulling out the film backing, gradually unrolls the roll. The second, without hesitation, immediately smoothes the laid canvas, expelling possible air bubbles from under it. The most convenient way to do this is to use a wide brush with a long handle, as shown in the illustration. Then the same operation is repeated in the other direction from the center. As a result, the first sheet is laid. For the central areas of the glued sheet, pressing with a brush (with a well-prepared concrete surface) is sufficient. But it is advisable to also roll the edges, in a strip of approximately 150 mm on each side, with a heavy metal or rubber roller.
	When gluing the next sheet lying parallel to the first, observe the following rule - the overlap should be at least 100 millimeters. The overlap strip is rolled with a roller to ensure complete sealing of the sheet joint.
	Of course, when laying waterproofing, they try to use entire sheets along the entire length. But sooner or later a situation arises when you have to join two strips along the end edge. There are also certain standards here.
	Even at the stage of “trying on” the next canvas, the necessary margin for overlap is immediately laid down.
	The minimum width of the overlap strip should be 150 millimeters.
	But that's not all. If you get a T-shaped joint, that is, two sheets laid and connected along the end side simultaneously overlap along their long side with the previously laid sheet, it is recommended to perform another operation. On the sheet that ends up in the middle (that is, the edge lies on the previously laid sheet, and then overlaps at the end with the next one), it is necessary to cut off the corner.
	The dimensions of the legs of this removable triangle correspond to the above parameters for the overlap of the canvases along the length and at the end. A rigid lining is placed under the edge of the sheet, and the corner is cut off with a knife.
	After this, the final “assembly” of this connecting unit is carried out, which is then necessarily rolled with a heavy roller for reliable sealing. The cut of the middle sheet in the joint turns out to be “packed” between the upper and lower sheets, so that the tightness is fully ensured.
	If similar T-shaped connecting nodes are found on adjacent strips, then the distance between them should be at least 500 millimeters. By the way, in this illustration you can clearly see the same cut corner, covered with the top sheet and rolled with a roller (shown by the red arrow).
	The work continues in the same manner until the entire horizontal surface requiring waterproofing is covered. The waterproofing layer itself also needs protection. If it is not intended to be backfilled with soil (for example, it is the floor of a basement or basement floor or a monolithic foundation slab), then a reinforced concrete screed (the so-called screed without connection to the base, on a separating layer), with a thickness of at least 50, must be installed over such waterproofing. millimeters.
	Now we move on to vertical waterproofing of the foundation. This is usually a more complex operation, since the surface often has many intersections of planes both vertically and horizontally. Work is always carried out in sections from bottom to top, that is, the upper canvases overlap the lower ones, allowing free drainage for moisture (the sequence and direction are shown schematically in the illustration). But before this, it is necessary to carry out a whole series of preliminary operations - surface preparation, formation of transition fillets, priming and creation of a reinforcement belt. Let's talk about everything in order.
	They begin again by checking the condition of the waterproofed surface. There should be no high sagging, bumps, dips, cracks and crevices, that is, anything that can interfere with the tight fit of the Technoelast-Barrier (BO) fabrics over its entire area, without leaving air voids.
	The requirements for level differences are the same as on a horizontal surface, that is, within 5 millimeters over a two-meter area.
	When vertically waterproofing the foundation, sharp fractures from top to bottom are completely unacceptable, that is, pronounced horizontal internal angles, which can become an area of moisture accumulation. That is, along the line of intersection of the vertical and horizontal planes, it is necessary to take measures to straighten the fracture as much as possible. This is done by laying out so-called transition fillets. The cross-section and dimensions of such a fillet (at least 100 millimeters along each leg) are shown in the illustration.
	To lay out fillets, you can use a regular cement-sand mortar, for example, in a ratio of 1:3. But in this case, you will have to wait for the concrete to completely harden “in full,” that is, within 4 weeks. So it is better to lay out the fillets immediately after removing the formwork from the foundation slab and discarding the soil from it. The optimal solution would be to use a special polymer-cement based building mixture, intended specifically for waterproofing work - it will create a reliable barrier against moisture in this vulnerable place, and it hardens and gains strength very quickly. The composition is diluted and kneaded in accordance with the instructions attached to it.
	The dry mixture is poured into the required measured volume of water and mixed until completely ready - obtaining a homogeneous plastic consistency.
	Then, using a regular spatula, fillets are formed, adhering to the dimensions indicated above.
	The laid fillets are left until they dry completely and gain strength.
	This illustration clearly demonstrates that fillets are laid out at all internal corners of the transition from the vertical to the horizontal plane. After the fillets are completely ready, they move on to the next stage of work.
	The next step is to thickly coat the entire surface for waterproofing with primer. On large areas it will be more convenient to work with a roller.
	But all difficult areas of the surface - external and internal corners and fillets - must be coated with a brush, so that not the slightest gap remains untreated with primer. Subsequent operations are carried out after the primer has completely dried - how to check this has already been described above.
	Next comes the most important stage - the creation of the so-called reinforcement belt. Its essence lies in the fact that all “problem” areas, without exception, are initially covered with strips of material, and only then, on top of the reinforcement, will the main waterproofing layer be installed. As already mentioned, the work is carried out from the bottom up. It often happens that work starts from an already waterproofed horizontal base. Another option is that the lower part of the structure consists of a concrete foundation preparation. It will have to be covered with material along its entire width, while adhering to the rules that apply on horizontal surfaces (see above). The illustration, just as an example, shows a belt of horizontal waterproofing 300 mm wide - it is assumed that the surface of the concrete preparation of the foundation has been covered. In the event that such a structural element is not provided (the tape was poured directly onto the sand and gravel bed), then the task is simplified. Our example shows probably the most complex option, with two fractures of the waterproofing surface at different levels.
	When creating reinforcement on any of the fillets, cut out a sheet of such width that there is a strip of at least 100 mm wide on both the top, on the vertical plane, and the bottom, on the horizontal plane.
	As a rule, all elements are cut out and tried on manually, directly at the site of future installation. After adjustment, the fragment is immediately glued to the specified area.
	The scheme of actions is simple: the protective backing is removed from the cut fragment sequentially as it is glued. Any glued element of the reinforcement belt is immediately rolled with a rubber or silicone roller.
	Further, the illustrations show some techniques for gluing waterproofing on various parts of the reinforcement belt. The strip is glued to the outer vertical corner. The rule is still the same - when moving to different planes, the minimum strip width on each of them should be 100 mm.
	"Sole" of the outer corner.
	The inner vertical corner is covered. Naturally, work on creating reinforcement from below should already be completed.
	The upper protruding part of the strip, covering the inner corner, is cut in two, and the “petals” are spread apart.
	The remaining gap between them is sealed on top with a small square fragment of waterproofing.
	Following the basic rules, they waterproof all “problem” areas. Of course, a certain amount of intelligence will be required, making decisions applicable to the specific conditions of the work. In the example under consideration, the finished reinforcement belt looks like this.
	After this, they proceed to gluing the main layer of waterproofing. It is recommended to adhere to the rule - no glued canvas should have more than one change in direction, otherwise it may become deformed with the appearance of voids. The work is carried out according to the same principle - from the lower sections to the upper ones: fitting, cutting, and then the final gluing of the fragment are carried out. The overlap on the end part of any fragments should be, as with horizontal waterproofing, at least 150 mm, on the side - 100 mm.
	In this case, the lines of vertical joints at adjacent levels must be spaced at a distance of at least 300 mm.
	The illustrations below show examples of gluing basic waterproofing. The sheet is fitted and cut to cover the horizontal “step” and the vertical wall of the foundation slab located below.
	Unlike the technology of gluing waterproofing using the fusing method, in this case each of the canvases will be attached after fitting from top to bottom. At the top, the protective backing is removed and the canvas is fixed to the surface.
	To ensure secure fixation, the upper part can be immediately rolled with a roller.
	Then, carefully removing the protective film sequentially, gluing the rest of the cut out fragment is carried out.
	They move to the next section of the same level - and continue in the same sequence.
	In areas of large overlap of sheets at the bottom at the inner corners, trim the top sheet diagonally, as shown in the illustration.
	Then this unit is glued, followed by rolling with a roller.
	After complete completion of work at this level, they move higher - to a vertical straight section of the foundation strip. Waterproofing is carried out in compliance with the same rules and technological techniques.
	The glued waterproofing sheets must be fixed along the top edge. For this, an aluminum fixing profile is used, which is attached to the foundation strip with dowels through the holes on it. There is a bend on the profile - it should be located on top in the direction from the wall.
	The profile is tried on, cut to the required size, then holes are drilled in the wall, dowels are driven in and screwed in. Two dowels are placed along the edges of the profile, that is, in the first two holes in a row. Further installation proceeds in increments through one hole.
	If joining of two profiles is necessary, then a compensation gap of about 8 ÷ 10 mm must be left between them.
	After all the planks around the perimeter of the foundation are secured, the gap between the bent edge and the profile wall is tightly filled with polyurethane sealant using a construction syringe.
	As a result, the completely waterproofed surface of the strip foundation looks like this. However, it must be protected from mechanical damage when backfilling the soil.
	For this purpose, extruded polystyrene foam boards can be used. It is rigid and strong enough to withstand mechanical loads, and the foundation strip, among other things, also receives good insulation.
	Another option, when insulation is not required, is to use a special profiled membrane “PLANTER - standard”. It is characterized by high strength, elasticity, and raised “bosses” provide the necessary damping effect when backfilling soil.
	This membrane is attached to the vertical surface of the foundation strip immediately before backfilling the pit. In this case, its relief protrusions should be facing towards the waterproofed surface. At this point, the work on waterproofing the strip foundation can be considered complete.

There are other methods of waterproofing foundation walls - cement-polymer plasters or coating compositions, solid polymer membranes, bentonite mats, similar in principle to a “clay castle”, fusing. However, in the conditions of individual construction, those mentioned in the publication are more often used.

Video: waterproofing the foundation by fusing rolled materials

And lastly, waterproofing the foundation will be effective only in those conditions where a well-thought-out management of storm and melt water is provided - drains from the roof, ebbs on the base, ground or underground storm inlets and drainage channels, etc. If water has direct access under the walls of the building, then sooner or later it will “do its job” and the reliability of the foundation’s waterproofing will be compromised.

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The best material for foundation waterproofing. Waterproofing materials for foundations How to coat foundations for waterproofing

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Making a Clay Castle

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Horizontal waterproofing of the foundation

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Video: using penetrating waterproofing of the Penetrat system

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Step-by-step instructions for waterproofing a foundation with self-adhesive bitumen-polymer material “Technoelast-Barrier (BO)”

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Video: waterproofing the foundation by fusing rolled materials