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How to find out where to dig a well on a site. How to find water for a well: an overview of the most effective ways to find water on your property. The process of digging a hole and equipping a well shaft

Groundwater

Dew. There should be dew in the morning - there is more dew where the water comes closer to the earthling. In theory, the more dew, the closer the water. Well, I don’t know how to count by meters. In the old days they looked for water with a vine, you can try it too, or with a pendulum, or with a frame if you know how... even if you don’t know how, you can try.

Dew is formed because the closer the water comes to the earthling, the better it cools, and when cooling, condensation forms from the air on the surface of the earth. This is well known.

Here's some more useful information:

WATER ON YOUR OWN LAND: WHERE TO DIGG A WELL?

This question often arises when you always want to have water on your property. What you will do: a well, a well with a pump - is a secondary matter. First you need to determine whether there is a water-bearing sphere at all and where it is located.

If possible, do geological sounding. But you can also use simple folk methods, which also almost accurately determine the location of water-bearing spheres, and at very great depths.

An aquifer is not a sea or a large river. It almost never comes into contact with the surface layer of soil, and on the plain its depth is the same, and in the lowlands it is much shallower. In addition, the water in the aquifers is in constant motion. If, say, you throw a safe dye into one well, then after a while it will certainly end up in the neighboring ones (downstream).

There are often two or three water-bearing spheres in the ground. The depth of their horizon is also different. In a dug well or well, the water will rise only to the level of the aquifer. Then you need to get it out mechanically.

The most accessible water is from the first aquifer. This is the so-called subcutaneous water, which is suitable only for household needs and for irrigation. The water of the second horizon is comparatively better in quality and is completely suitable for consumption. But the most valuable water is the third aquifer, which mainly lies at a depth of 30-40, and often 50 meters and, as a rule, under hard rock that is not easy to break through. But it is rich in mineral salts, various chemical compounds, and has high taste.

All this must be known and taken into account when building a well. But the main thing is to determine where exactly the aquifer passes.

Well-known folk methods of searching for water are conventionally divided into three groups: determination by indication, with the help of indicator plants and by the behavior of animals, birds, and insects.

When using an indication, use pieces of aluminum wire or a fork from a wooden branch of hazel, willow, or viburnum.

In the first case, take two aluminum wires up to one meter long, each with ends bent at right angles (10-15 cm).

It is better to insert these ends into tubes of tree-like elderberry, removing the core. The wires should turn freely in the tubes.

The starting position is this: the indicator wires are turned horizontally by 1800. When a person, walking along the site, comes across a water-bearing ball, the wires close forward, to the right or to the left (along the flow of water). Having passed this place, the indicators again diverge to the sides by 180*.

Now, having marked the place where the wires meet, you should walk with the indicators apart in a perpendicular direction. If the wires came together from the very beginning and stayed that way for some time, then this was the direction of the water-bearing ball. If the rods deviate to the right or left, again look for the place of their contact.

It will be the center of the future water source.

A similar way to search for a water-bearing ball is using a wooden fork (two branches that grew close to each other, connected by a piece of trunk). They are pre-bent, dried, the angle between the ends must be at least 150 *.

Take the fork in two hands, extend them horizontally in front of you and walk through the surveyed area. In the place where the water-bearing ball is located, the section of the trunk will noticeably tilt towards the ground.

Often, during an inspection of the territory, the indicators do not respond: they do not close anywhere and do not tilt. This means there is no water-bearing sphere here. Water should be looked for elsewhere.

The second method is using indicator plants. Long-term observations have proven that where the aquifer lies, sedge, horse sorrel, coltsfoot, horsetail, nettle, foxglove and other moisture-loving plants grow well. Their presence on the site indicates that the aquifer is located at a shallow depth.

Trees can also be indicator plants. Willow and alder grow well above the water-bearing spheres, leaning towards the flow. And vice versa, apple, plum and cherry trees here get sick and dry out.

The third way is to observe the behavior of animals, birds, rodents, and insects. Let's say a horse, when it wants water, sniffs the ground and hits with its hooves where it senses the presence of moisture. A dog will never lie down, even on a bedding, in a place where groundwater is close. A chicken will not lay eggs in sedge, but a goose and duck will not lay eggs. Mice make nests in damp places even on tree branches or in weeds, but not in the ground.

Mosquitoes and ants are also good indicators of the presence of groundwater. Where there are water veins, even though the surface is dry, after sunset, as a rule, you can see hordes of mosquitoes. Ants will never build an anthill when they sense water nearby.

There are other folk methods. An inverted jar of water or a pot above the water-bearing sphere will certainly become covered with dew, and a bunch of salt will get wet in dry weather. In the evening and morning, fog spreads low over such places. In winter there will be patches of snow here. These and other signs and methods have long been used by people, supplemented and improved from generation to generation. They were always needed when the question arose: where to dig a well.

G.A. Skoryak
Magazine "Home.Garden.Vegetable Garden." 1993

Best regards, Tanya Madison

A well on a country plot is not a luxury at all, but an extremely necessary structure for a normal life. A person does not need much drinking water; 2-3 liters can easily be taken with you from the city. But this volume is clearly not enough for watering plants, washing hands and dishes, so many summer residents and suburban residents are thinking about an individual water supply system. The question of how to find water on a site for a well can be solved in several ways. Let's consider the most effective and affordable options.

In order not to shovel tons of earth in vain, you need to find the location of groundwater in advance

Types of aquifers

The choice of location for a well largely depends on the location and depth of groundwater. There are 4 main types of aquifers:

  • Verkhovodka. It is located very close to the surface (depth of occurrence - no more than 4 meters). The volume of liquid depends on the season and amount of precipitation.
  • Groundwater (up to 10 m). The main feature is the free-flow horizon: the water level remains unchanged throughout the year.
  • Interlayer layer. The “layer” between soil and artesian layers can be either free-flow or pressure. Springs and springs appear as a result of the interstratal pressure layer reaching the surface.
  • Artesian layer (up to 40 m). Thanks to multi-level natural filtration, artesian water is the cleanest.

Important! Water from the top layer can only be used for technical purposes. If you need drinking water, the depth of the well should be at least 8-10 meters.

The deeper the well, the better the quality of the water.

Traditional methods of searching for water on a site

In ancient times, searching for a source of life-giving moisture was considered almost a ritual practice. Only a select few knew how to choose a location for a well. Scientific and technological progress has greatly simplified this procedure, but many traditional methods are still relevant today.

Studying landscape features

Often nature itself clearly suggests where to dig a well. The location of water layers is “given away” by the following signs:

  • Haze above the surface of the earth on hot days is the evaporation of moisture from underground.
  • Depressions and hills. Aquifers most often occur in depressions.
  • Pets that have chosen a certain piece of land. For example, dogs and horses find the wettest soil in the summer and dig a hole in it, thus escaping the heat.
  • Moisture-loving trees. Pine, spruce, birch and alder grow well only if they are actively recharged with moisture from the soil.

You are unlikely to wonder how to find water for a well if there is a lake or river near the site. This is a clear signal that the aquifers are located very close to the surface.

Dowsing method

Dowsing (dowsing) is perhaps one of the most ancient methods of searching for life-giving moisture. It is believed that groundwater “magnetizes” frames made of wicker or metal to itself. Experts do not trust this method too much, because its effectiveness is about 50%. “Hitting the target” largely depends on the experience of the person who is looking for where to dig a well on the site. The procedure is simple:

  • Metal frames are made of wire 4-6 mm thick. The main condition is that the material must be heavy enough and not sway in gusts of wind.
  • The frames are carefully held by the handles with the left and right hands. In this case, your arms need to be bent at the elbows at a right angle.
  • It is necessary to move slowly along the site, stopping in places where there may be an aquifer.
  • If the frames diverge in different directions, there is no water; if they converge, the water is close.

Important! Do not squeeze the handles too hard - this will prevent the frames from rotating.

Dowsing is an ancient way of finding water sources

Scientific methods for finding a site for a well

If you don’t trust artisanal methods, scientific methods will help you determine where to dig a well. Some experiments can be carried out at home (consumables are sold in pharmacies and hardware stores); a number of techniques will require professional equipment.

How to choose a place for a well on a site using silica gel?

  • Dry the granules well in the oven and pour them into a clay pot.
  • Weigh the filled container and record this data. It's better to take a pharmacy scale.
  • Bury the pot in the ground in the place where the water layer is supposed to pass, and leave it for a day.
  • Dig out the silica gel and do a check weighing. The greater the difference, the closer the water is.

Important! Do not overdo it. It is enough to bury the “magic pot” at a depth of 0.5 meters.

Silica gel can be purchased at a hardware store.

Soil analysis

If you ask specialists how to find a place for a well on a site, you will most likely be offered to do a detailed soil analysis. After the study, you will receive a diagram of the location of groundwater and its depth. One of the inexpensive methods is RAP (resonant acoustic profiling). The geophysical method is based on the study of the natural acoustic field. The device analyzes the received data and provides information about areas with high water saturation.

Exploration drilling

Exploration drilling solves two questions at once: how to find a place to dig a well and how to determine its depth. “Exploration” involves a small-sized installation with a drill of minimum diameter (100 mm). If potable water is found at a depth of 8-10 meters, it will be enough to strengthen the walls with a casing pipe and install a pumping station. If the layers go 15 meters or more, you will have to expand the hole with larger diameter drills or immediately equip a full-fledged well.

For resonant acoustic profiling you will need professional equipment

Site layout: where to put the well

A few simple rules will help you find a suitable place for a well on your property:

  • The shaft should not interfere with access to the house and outbuildings (existing and planned). It will no longer be possible to move the well, so carefully choose where it will be located.
  • Choose the highest place within the boundaries of the discovered aquifer - this way you will protect the walls from quicksand and stagnant holes.
  • The closer the water intake is to the house, the better. You don't have to carry heavy buckets over long distances or overpay for pump power.

Important! The well should not be located too close to the house. The optimal distance is 8 meters.

Your own source will once and for all solve the issue of water supply for a private home or cottage. Having studied the question of how to find a place for a well using the traditional method, you will be able to determine the presence of water layers on the site and make a decision about constructing a water intake shaft. But you shouldn’t take the “old-fashioned” methods as an axiom. Only professional research can give an absolutely accurate result.

You bought a plot and decided to build a house on it. As in any modern home, yours will have a bathroom, a bathroom and a kitchen, as well as a dishwasher and washing machine. This means it will be necessary on the site. Today we will focus on the first option - consider water supply from a well. How to determine where to dig a well on a site? What needs to be taken into account when marking, and what distances should be maintained from the main objects?

Let's take it in order.

Marking the area for digging a well

To know how to determine where to dig a well on a site, you do not need to be a psychic or have other similar abilities. To do this, you need to be able to correctly understand the requirements of SanPiN and be able to measure distances on your site.

Before you start developing your own site, you must understand that an integrated approach is the basis for its correct use. And the placement of sources of drinking and domestic water in this regard is no exception.

Before the start of all work, the site is marked out, during which the locations for all objects on the site are determined.

  1. The location where the residential building will be located is selected. Depending on the specifics of the project, the building site of the house is oriented along the edges of the site and its corners. The walls of the house do not always have to be parallel to the sides of the site. Moreover, there are triangular, trapezoidal and polygonal land plots intended for individual development.
  2. The next step is choosing a place for a garage, bathhouse and other outbuildings. Their placement is tied to the building site of the house. The location of the garage, in addition, is tied to the red line, which borders the roadway. It is clear that you cannot locate a garage, for example, in the backyard, too far from the road. Why will become clear from the next paragraph.
  3. Roads and paths are being laid in the area from all objects. The above mentioned garage must have a driveway for cars. The closer the garage is located to the roadway, the shorter the driveway is required. If the garage were located in the backyard, then the driveway would “eat up” too much of the usable area of ​​the site.
  4. At the next stage, markings are made for the sewer system of your home. The place where the septic tank will be located should not be too close or too far from the house. The distance of the septic tank from a residential building is not regulated by SanPiN standards.
  5. But at this stage, the choice of location for the water source begins. This could be a well or a borehole. The location of a well or borehole is regulated by SanPiN standards in relation to sewerage facilities on your site, as well as by distances to auxiliary buildings if they contain animals.

Distances from main objects

What distances should you consider on your property before determining the place to dig a well that will supply your household with drinking water?

As you can see, we are talking specifically about a well with drinking water, since the placement of a well with water for agricultural needs is not regulated in any way. Why do you need a well that will supply water for various auxiliary purposes? A situation may arise when the well on your site has too little flow. will not be enough for all your needs, but will only be enough to get water for drinking and washing. Water for watering the garden and washing cars, for example, as well as for other household needs, may well be taken from a “household” well.

A well with drinking water should be located no closer than 15 meters from the septic tank and no closer than 10 meters from buildings in which pets are kept. The distance of the well from the roadway is not strictly regulated, but it is recommended to maintain at least 7 meters.

The distance to the boundaries of the site that do not border the road must be at least 1 meter. The distance to the bathhouse is not regulated, but the distance to the garage must be at least 10 meters.

On the one hand, everything is clear. On the other hand, sometimes the entire plot for building a house is 20 by 30 meters, which is 6 acres. If you put a house at least 6 by 9 on such a plot, then on each side there will be approximately 6-10 meters left to the boundaries of the plot. How to find a place to dig a well in this situation?

There is only one way out - to shift the construction site of a residential building, and not to build a house in the center of the site. In practice, this is often what they do - the front yard is made much narrower than the back yard, where the bathhouse and outbuildings are usually located. Also, the building site of the house moves closer to one of the side boundaries of the site, which allows for a certain “operational space” in choosing the location of the well.

You can get a free consultation on choosing a location for a well on your site if you order.

Country well - features

When you have a dacha plot, the question of where to dig a well in your dacha is relevant to you. What is special about the dacha plot in front of the plot for individual housing construction?

  1. Typically, dacha plots are smaller in area than plots for individual housing construction. The notorious “six acres” are cut into dacha cooperatives all the time, and plots for individual housing construction since 2014 cannot be less than 10 acres.
  2. Since the dacha plot involves the active cultivation of garden crops, natural fertilizers and chemicals are used on it. Natural fertilizer placed in the soil in the form of cow manure or bird droppings can contaminate the water in a well no worse than a toxic chemical. For this reason, the further the well is located from the garden, the better.
  3. From the above point it also follows that your neighbors also grow garden crops and also fertilize the soil of their plot. This means that the farther your well is from your neighbors’ gardens, the better.

Of course, if you use water from a well in your dacha only for watering plants, and bring drinking bottled water with you or take it from a nearby spring, then the location of the well in your dacha is not so important. However, do not forget that you can use this water for bathing procedures or for washing.

Where is the water on your property?

There is an opinion that you need to look for a place for a well where there is water. Various types of specialists search for water in the area using different methods - from “dowsing” to searching for an area where burdocks grow on the surface, indicating high humidity in this place.

Yes, all these methods show where the water vein, a layer of aquiferous sand, comes closer to the surface. The layers are not strictly parallel to the surface; they rise and fall, with deflections up or down.

Before you find a place where you need to dig a well, you should, of course, pay attention to the signs of sagging of the aquifer. But I would like to note that there is water everywhere under your site. Modern technology allows you to dig a well up to 15 meters deep, which can supply water not only to you, but also to all your neighbors.

In the old days, when digging wells was done by hand, every extra meter in depth was difficult. That is why the search for “place” was given such importance. With modern earthmoving equipment, the correct location of the well digging site relative to buildings and sewerage equipment is more important than relative to the deflection of the aquifer.

Being the owner of your own country plot and not having your own well is probably not the most successful option. Yes, of course, some holiday villages are equipped with a centralized water supply system, but it’s still better to be completely independent from the “whims” of public utilities. The well will become a source of clean drinking water, satisfy all household needs, and provide irrigation for the garden plot, but only if it will be arranged correctly.

— materials and tools for waterproofing work.

Most modern wells are made of reinforced concrete rings. It is best to purchase products that have a “quarter” locking part for centered and tight fit of the rings to each other. The standard ring size is 1000 mm - internal diameter, 1160 - external, wall thickness - 80 mm, maximum height - 900 mm. Such a product (KS-10-9) weighs 600 kg. If necessary, you can purchase rings of the same diameter, but of a smaller height - 300, 500 or 600 mm. On the walls of such rings there are holes for inserting slings when hanging and lowering them into the shaft.

You should immediately warn against purchasing low-quality, illicit rings that are damaged or have already been used. Such savings here are not only inappropriate, but can also be dangerous, since the practice of arranging wells knows many cases of rupture, distortion, and bursting of rings with all possible consequences.

How many rings are needed is an individual question for each specific location. It is worth finding out from your neighbors how deep their well is; this figure should not change much. At the same time, the structure of the well itself is taken into account - the height of the water-bearing part itself, the trunk and the head.

Digging a well and installing rings

  • Work begins with markings on the soil surface. For these purposes, as well as to control compliance with the dimensions of future penetration, you need to build a simple device - a cross of two slats, with a length equal to the required diameter of the shaft.

Cross - a template for further work

If the ring has an outer diameter of 1160, then the shaft should be marked approximately 200 - 300 mm wider, i.e. Ø from 1350 to 1450 mm with the open method of constructing a well (more on this below). With the closed method, the minimum required gap is left - so that the ring fits into the shaft without distortion.

  • Remove the top layer of soil from the turf and begin to delve into the dense layers of soil.

All selected soil must be located at a distance of at least 3 meters from the pit from the work site. You can even immediately take it away, for example, to a place where it is planned to build an “alpine slide”. When the clay layer begins, it is better to store the selected clay separately - it will be useful in the future for waterproofing the well.

  • After going deep to the height of the first ring, install a tripod or other structure on which lifting mechanisms are mounted, and further work can be planned in different ways:

1. You can install the first ring exactly and continue to dig under it - it will fall under its own weight.

As the settlement progresses, the next ring is installed on the first one, and they are fastened together with brackets - and so on until the aquifer. This method is called “closed”, and is more relevant on problematic, shifting soils, with quicksand, underground “rivers”, etc. Thus, the excavator always works in a concrete ring, which lowers with him as the soil is removed.

This method is not considered optimal, as it has many disadvantages. Thus, a big problem during excavation can be a large boulder caught under the wall of the ring - removing it will not be easy, and sometimes even impossible. But on the other hand, installation of subsequent rings does not require complex lifting equipment, since it is always carried out at the top.

2. The second method is called “open” and involves digging a shaft to the entire required depth and then installing rings. Disadvantages - a much larger volume of selected soil, difficulties with installing and fastening the rings (the work is carried out at a considerable depth), there is always a danger of shedding or even collapse of the mine walls, especially when unstable aquifers begin or quicksand breaks through the wall - the source of “overwater” .

3. Based on the above, the optimal method will probably be a mixed method. Initially, the work is carried out using the open method, but until the first sign of instability of the walls or the appearance of signs of perched water. Then reinforced concrete rings are immediately lowered to the excavated depth, and further soil excavation is carried out using a closed technology, with the deposition of an extendable well shaft. This is the approach most often used in practice.

  • The work becomes more complicated once the aquifer is reached - according to the rules, it is necessary to settle the trunk on at least one more, and better yet, two more rings. Often it is necessary to ensure constant pumping of incoming water. Before entering this layer, the joints of the lower rings must immediately be sealed with special cement-containing compositions.

  • The well shaft is extended in such a way that the top ring protrudes approximately 500 mm above ground level. In the future, this head can be formed by a frame or in another way; a crank mechanism is installed above it to lift the bucket.

Video: methods of digging wells from reinforced concrete rings

After completely tearing off the well along its entire depth, it is necessary to pump out all the water and silt from it in order to install a bottom filter.

Well bottom filter

Without this element, the water in the well will not have the purity that the owner probably expects. The springs gushing at the bottom of the well can raise turbidity, sand, and in the case of quicksand (extremely saturated with water flowing sand) it will simply become overgrown and shallow very quickly.

The choice of bottom filter depends on the condition of the bottom - what kind of soil forms it:

  • If the bottom is dense clay through which springs flow, then, as a rule, the water will be clean, and there is not even a need for a bottom filter. Moreover, its installation can even reduce the debit of the well. Light turbidity, if any, can be easily eliminated with a regular household filtration system.
  • If the bottom is formed by soft clay, then it will be constantly eroded by streams of incoming water. The water becomes excessively cloudy, and it can only be taken from the top layer. To eliminate this drawback, you will need a direct bottom filter.

To do this, large stones or crushed stones are placed at the bottom, with a maximum size of up to 150 200 mm. Then a layer of medium-sized gravel (fraction 20-30 mm), up to 150 mm thick, is poured. And a final layer of clean river pebbles, also up to 150 mm thick, is laid on top. The total thickness of the resulting filter reaches half a meter.

  • The sandy bottom through which water seeps in poses another danger. Any impact on it (for example, a lowered bucket) causes a rise in the sand mass, which rises to the top along with the water. It is impossible to install pumping equipment in such a well - sand will quickly disable it. However, everything can be solved by creating a reverse bottom filter that will prevent grains of sand from rising from the bottom.

In this case, washed river sand is first poured onto the bottom. The second layer is river pebbles or gravel up to 10 mm in size (shungite can be used). And the top layer will be large gravel or pebbles ranging in size from 50 mm. The thickness of each layer is at least 150 mm.

  • The bottom is a pronounced quicksand - which means you can’t do without a special wooden shield. It is knocked together from aspen or oak boards and cut exactly to the size of the bottom of the well. A large number of holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled into the shield. It is then wrapped in geotextiles and placed on the bottom.

To prevent it from floating up, they press it down with large stones. At least a 200-300 mm layer of small pebbles or gravel is laid on top.

What safety measures are required when digging a well?

The work of digging a well is very specific and dangerous and requires special precautions.

  • First of all, the area should be fenced off and strangers, and especially children, should not be allowed into the work area.
  • You cannot store the selected soil closer than 3 meters from the mine, or even better, immediately take it to a safe distance. Within the same radius there should be no foreign objects or unused tools at all near the shaft.
  • All lifting mechanisms - construction sites, tripods, winches installed on them, gates, hoists and etc.. must be checked daily before starting work. The condition of ropes, slings, and rigging hooks is also carefully monitored. All lifting devices must have a reliable brake and locking system.
  • Buckets (tubs) for extracting soil must be tightly tied to ropes, and when working at a depth of more than 6 meters, they must also have a safety end.
  • Working at depth may be accompanied by the accumulation of gases in the mine, which can cause suffocation for the excavator. Before lowering it into the mine, the air quality must be checked - a burning candle is lowered into it. If it goes out, forced ventilation must be carried out, and then the test is repeated.
  • If there is a lack of oxygen during work, it is necessary to create conditions for forced ventilation. For these purposes, you can use a compressor, fan or other air blower (sometimes even a powerful vacuum cleaner), or install a metal furnace near the shaft, the vent of which is connected to a pipe lowered to the very bottom of the shaft.
  • It is imperative to warn the excavator by voice about objects being lowered or raised. A worker in a mine must wear a safety helmet, and the possibility of emergency evacuation must be provided.
  • When working using the ring deposition method, the upper unclosed edge of the shaft should not be more than 1 meter. If there are signs of instability of the shaft walls, work is immediately stopped until the cause is determined and the possibility of eliminating it is determined.

Typically, work on high-quality digging of wells is carried out by teams of experienced professionals who have their own specialized equipment. It is almost impossible for a beginner to cope with such a task - there are too many nuances familiar only to masters, and the work is fraught with too many dangers.

Video: Tips from a professional for digging wells

At this point, the construction of a well on a suburban site is far from completed. There is still serious work to be done on waterproofing, insulation, installation of a clay castle, concrete blind area, installation of water pipes, head equipment and other stages. They will be discussed in more detail in other publications on our portal.

Finding water for a well is the most crucial moment. After all, the future source of clean water can be used not only for domestic purposes, but also for cooking. The structure provides water to both the house and the garden, so the well must be located according to all the rules. The chosen location should fit well into the surrounding landscape and be located on an aquifer. The well should be built at a shallow depth - up to 5-8 meters. There are several ways to find water for a well.

Nature's clues

How to choose a location for a well if there is not enough experience in this matter?

  1. It's best to just take a closer look at the soil after a hot day. In areas where water is close to the surface of the earth, a light haze forms in the air after the heat. Evaporation flowing upward indicates that there is a water flow underneath. Fog above the ground is a faithful assistant if the owner of the site does not know how to find a place for a well.
  2. Another way to choose locations for a well is to carefully study the area. The presence of a lake near the garden plot indicates that it will be quite easy to find an aquifer on the territory. Initially, you need to measure the pressure on the shore with a special device. Then, with the same device, you should go to your site. If it shows a deviation, it means that water is located in this particular formation.
  3. Nature also gives such a hint - an oak tree often grows in the area where water flows intersect. Bent birch, willow, and alder trees can indicate the presence of water in the area. The branches of trees bend towards the water - plants pull their roots towards the water vein in order to be saturated with underground moisture.
  4. Using a pendulum will help you find water for a well on your site. How to determine where to dig a well using a pendulum? For this purpose, take a gold ring, tie it to a thread and, bending your elbow, hold the pendulum vertically down. Having tuned in mentally, you need to go around the entire area with a pendulum. When a vein of water is detected, the pendulum begins to swing back and forth.
  5. Folk signs also often suggest how to find a place for a well. Horses sense water very well. The search for water for a well must begin after careful observation of the animal. In the heat, the horse begins to kick hard in the place where the underground water vein flows. Dogs can also help you find a stream of water. In hot weather, the dog digs a hole in a place where there is water between the layers and lies down in it. It is better to dig a well in places where there is a large concentration of midges - insects swarm in places with high humidity. This sign will help determine how to find a place for a well on the site. If midges accumulate in only one zone, then the water vein will certainly be located there.
  6. To successfully find a water vein, you can take a closer look not only at insects, trees and plants, but also at the topography of the earth. The topography of the soil will also tell you where it is best to place the well on your plot. The proximity of the water flow is indicated by pits and depressions of natural origin. The soil in these places is not very stable and sags over the years.

Using Frames

To ensure that the well on the site is located in the right place, you can use a frame. It is made from metal rods or wire. The frame must have a handle. This makes it more convenient to hold the device and look for water flow. It doesn’t really matter what metal the frame is made of. Use wire that is not too light. Its ends should be bent at an angle, after which the rods are inserted into the handle. The material should be strong enough and not sway in strong winds. In the device, the wire swings freely, but does not fall out of the handle. To search for water, you should use two frames.

The location of the well on the site is determined using a manufactured frame as follows:

  1. Take the frames by the handles with bent hands.
  2. The entire area is inspected using equipment.
  3. If the frames diverge to the sides, there is no water in this place.
  4. If the frames intersect, dig a well.

Application of silica gel

One of the additional ways to find where to place a well on a personal plot is to use silica gel. The gel granules are well dried in the oven, the mass is weighed, placed in a clay container and buried in the ground. After a day, take out the clay container and weigh the gel granules again. Silica gel quickly absorbs moisture if it is in the soil. Using this material, they determine where to dig a well on the site. Experts recommend burying containers of granules at least half a meter deep in the soil. Within a day, the material is completely saturated with moisture present in the soil.

Test drilling

The test drilling method using hand tools will quickly help determine the choice of location for the well. How to find water on a site using a drill? To do this, a test well is drilled in a place with an expected water flow. To determine the location of the well, weighed red bricks are first buried in the soil. A day later, the material is removed from the ground and the weight of the bricks is checked. The heaviest brick will absorb moisture more than others. This means that it is in its place that we need to drill.

Location determination

In addition to the presence of an aquifer, when constructing a well, it is important to comply with sanitary standards. Certain rules allow you to avoid mistakes in this matter - how to determine the location for a well. Various contaminants should not enter the water flow. The potential source of drinking water must be reasonably clean. It is recommended to dig a well in an area that is never flooded with melt water. This way you can avoid contamination.

The site for the well should not contain plants that have been treated with nitrates, chemicals and fertilizers. Some crops may be potential sources of disease. In agricultural work, various salts and acids are often used, which can get into the water and harm human health. When choosing a location, you should not build the desired structure near the plants being treated.

When to dig a well?

How to choose a place for a new well so that the well can be used for a long time? You should not dig a pit in the spring, when the snow is melting, or during the autumn rainy season, when groundwater is closest to the surface. In hot weather, such a well may turn out to be dry. The optimal period for constructing a well is from August to October. Groundwater goes deeper into the soil, which makes it possible to avoid accidental flooding.

How to choose a place for a well to protect it from dirt? Household dust should not penetrate the water. To do this, the upper part of the structure is raised high above the ground. A flat cemented area must be built around the structure. It will provide the necessary protection from water and dust. A special blind area is formed from bricks.

It is necessary to dig a well after accurately determining the location of the water. It is important that water does not seep from the top layers of soil into the mine. The well is reinforced with durable materials. If the structure is built from wood, then wood that is resistant to rotting is used.

For beginners who do not know how to search for water, several methods can be used simultaneously. The search for an aquifer should not stop at using any one method. When you need to build a well, experienced specialists will tell you how to quickly find water. Usually the dowsing method is used using a metal frame. A barometer can also indicate the desired layer.

Devices

The location of the well on the site requires the use of special instruments. Mechanisms for searching for underground water can be domestic or imported. If you don’t know how to use the device to find a place for a well on your property, pay attention to the mechanisms described below. Thus, the simple “Pulse” device has proven itself well in operation. The electrodes of this device are buried to a certain depth in the soil and the indicators are looked at. If the device shows a high value, then the formation is aquiferous.

The use of modern instruments will allow you to correctly determine the right place for drilling. However, this method is not always available to many land owners. Some people prefer to use grandfather’s methods in finding water. Sometimes such a proven method can be more accurate than the readings of the most advanced device. It is better to search for water after first weighing and evaluating all the possibilities and nuances.