How to increase the efficiency of a potbelly stove without the help of a specialist and serious financial investments. The brick stove is bursting at the seams: we make decisions. Useful information about draft in the chimney
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Potbelly stoves can be a great way to warm up a garage or utility room. However, the metal walls of such stoves quickly heat up and cool down quickly. Craftsmen have figured out how to increase the efficiency of a potbelly stove. We need to improve it. Change the design of the body and chimney, experiment with fuel and additional coolants.
Why increase efficiency?
The compact dimensions of the stove mean that the surface that heats up during operation is small. Not much heat flows outside and the room quickly cools down. Sometimes it seems that the return from the potbelly stove is weak.
To help it increase efficiency, several tasks are solved:
- the duration of combustion and smoldering increases;
- a sufficiently high combustion temperature is ensured;
- a high level of traction is achieved.
Standard potbelly stove efficiency
We can talk about the efficiency factor in relation to a potbelly stove in a conditional manner. This parameter is approximately 65-70%.
Methods to increase efficiency
There are several ways to increase the efficiency of a potbelly stove in the garage and stop freezing. They are complex in varying degrees: from a sandbox to an updated design. All of them are produced without serious financial costs, and improvised means are used for their implementation. Let's consider each method for increasing the efficiency of a potbelly stove separately.
Changing the chimney
The efficiency of a potbelly stove is directly affected by the shape of the chimney. To ensure that heat transfer does not suffer, the pipe design must meet certain parameters.
To conserve heat, a damper is embedded into the chimney structure, which regulates the air supply to the combustion chamber. The fire will burn and the fuel will burn faster when the damper is fully open, and if it is closed, the firewood or briquettes will burn more slowly. Smoldering in the firebox is the key to long and uniform heat transfer.
Brick screen around the stove
The brickwork around the device allows you to retain heat and protect yourself and others from contact with hot metal. Properly placed masonry increases heat transfer by about a quarter. When the potbelly stove is heated, the brickwork heats up. After the fuel burns, it will continue to share the collected heat. Experts advise laying bricks not close to each other, but 30 centimeters from the walls of the firebox.
To lay out the screen, you will need a couple of dozen heat-resistant bricks:
- the screen is laid out on clay mortar;
- the first row is laid out according to the intended markings;
- in the second row, ventilation gaps are made the size of half a brick;
- the brick is laid out in accordance with a pre-designed shape and size for the opening;
- A steel strip is attached to the last row for additional fixation.
When laying out the screen is completed, remove excess solution with a damp cloth. After 24 hours, the structure dries out - then defects on the walls, if any, appear, are cleaned out. The cleaned and retouched screen dries within several days. Before use, you should heat the stove a couple of times for 15 minutes.
Improving heat transfer using fuel
A metal stove is heated in different ways: from wood to sawdust with small debris. To improve heat transfer in a potbelly stove, compressed sawdust, briquetted industrial waste and coal are used.
It is also worth assessing the traction force. This can be done by looking at the color of the flame. If there is not enough air, the flame turns red and dark streaks appear; if there is too much oxygen, the flames become bright white. The draft, and with it the efficiency of the stove, is normal when the flame is golden-orange. For better traction, you can blow the potbelly stove using a conventional fan.
Sandbox
If you have no desire at all to re-equip your stove, add anything to it, or experiment with different types of fuel, there is the simplest and most economical method. A box is placed on the potbelly stove, in which two buckets of sand are placed.
Place 2 of these buckets in a box on top of the stove.
Such a box, like brickwork, absorbs energy and warms up the garage when the wood in the firebox burns and the coals go out. Despite its simplicity, the method helps to increase the utility of the potbelly stove.
Redesign of the structure
Steel corners welded on the sides strengthen the device itself and increase the temperature of the furnace. Metal side screens are also screwed on for these purposes.
Craftsmen attach sheets of iron 6 centimeters from the walls of the firebox. This is done so that the heat energy is transferred using convection, due to which air moves between the installed plates and the body of the potbelly stove.
Install protective metal screens
To prevent the heat energy from disappearing so quickly, you can use a metal cassette. It is a cylindrical object welded from a sheet of steel. It is called a cassette because it is inserted into the combustion chamber. A little firewood is loaded into the cassette, turned over and placed in the potbelly stove so that the firewood itself gradually falls onto the heated coals and ignites. While the wood already in the firebox is burning, the remaining wood in the cassette is dried and lights up after the first layers.
Using additional coolant
The stoves are supplemented with water tanks and so-called water jackets in order to use them as an additional coolant and save energy.
The water jacket is designed as follows. A U-shaped tank in which water is heated is mounted in the housing. Two pipes branch off from the tank: for supply and processing. The tank itself is fed by tapping into the pipeline.
Thus, the craftsmen transform the potbelly stove into a device capable of heating air and replacing a small heating system at the same time.
Conclusion
The efficiency of a potbelly stove increases without the help of specialists and serious financial investments. To make the stove heat up better, we can resort to changing the design, additionally covering it with masonry, or simply change the type of fuel. All these methods differ in complexity, but have one thing in common - they work.
←Previous article Next article →Houses built from wood are very popular. However, after several decades of operation, these structures have to undergo major repairs. It consists of replacing the lower rows of rotten logs or raising and strengthening the foundation. In order to carry out such repairs, the building must be raised.
What structures can be lifted
For major repairs, only one-story buildings of the following types are raised: made of wooden beams; from rounded and other logs; panel wooden houses.
Facilities from timber or hardwood For example, larch and oak last quite a long time. There are still pre-revolutionary houses that are over 100 years old and have retained their almost original appearance.
Modern wooden buildings are not so durable. The reason for this is the quality of the timber, which became especially susceptible to various diseases after the beginning of the “atomic era” and the ongoing testing of nuclear bombs.
In this regard, timber structures are required every 15 - 20 years scrutinize to identify signs of rot and the appearance of fungus, the lower crowns of wooden houses are especially often affected by this.
Signs of Problems
There are several such signs and they can be seen almost with the naked eye. Namely: partial or complete violation of the foundation of the house; deepening the foundation into the ground; subsidence of the building in one of the corners; large distortion of windows and doors, as well as the tilt of the building.
After inspection and identification of many additional works, a decision is made to raise the house. Simultaneously create a plan, through which they purchase the necessary building materials and tools. In addition, the following activities are planned for major repairs:
- replacement of rotten building crowns;
- preventing further subsidence;
- alignment of the distortion of the entire box around the perimeter;
- treating wood with chemicals to prevent rotting;
- complete or partial replacement of the foundation.
Such great work carried out within 1 - 2 weeks, involve the entire family and several invited specialists.
Preparing to lift the building
Before lifting the house, it is necessary to carry out actions to ensure ease of lifting and further repairs. This is done to protect against sudden and unexpected destruction of the structure. The following must be done:
In many houses, the floor is built on joists that have their own columnar foundation. The walls of this building are connected to the floor only by baseboards, which will also have to be removed. In addition, the upper crowns on which the rafters are attached need to be well connected with reliable blocks 50 mm thick or bars so that the roof does not move apart. You also need to separate the veranda attached to the wall.
When everything is ready, select suitable jacks for wooden houses. For ordinary standard buildings with a total area of 60 to 100 sq. meters, hydraulic jacks with a lifting capacity of 5 - 10 tons are quite suitable. You need at least 2 of them. Drivers of heavy-duty trucks always have such lifts.
Cooking wooden pallets with a thickness of at least 50 -- 80 mm, on which jacks for lifting and steel plates under the heads of these devices will be installed. There should be a small depression in the center to prevent the jack from slipping.
Instructions for raising a house
In practice, lifting a house is carried out quite rarely, but if it is already done, then all the work that is possible during this event is done. This includes the replacement of rotten lower logs, treatment with chemical compounds against fungus, and complete repair of the foundation. At the same time, the building frame is leveled.
Logs prepared to replace rotten ones must be dry, free from bark beetles and treated with special solutions that protect against moisture. The bricks for the foundation are well-burnt and red in color. They are suitable for corners, can withstand loads of several tons and are not afraid of dampness. It is also necessary to prepare cement and sand for the solution.
All actions to lift the structure are done slowly and clearly taking precautions. It is best to start such an event in the morning.
To raise a house with your own hands, the step-by-step instructions say the following:
- Start from the most sagging corner. At a distance of about a meter from it, they dig a hole in the ground to install a jack with flooring. The soil should be hard and dry.
- The lift is brought under the lower log, and if it is intact and strong, a prepared steel plate is placed under the head of the device. If the log is rotten, then cut a recess for the jack pin to a stronger surface.
- Proceed directly to raising the angle. They do it carefully. The lifting height should not exceed 5 - 6 cm at a time. At the same time, prepared supports and stands are wedged in to lighten the load on the lift.
- The structure is carefully inspected to identify unforeseen complications.
- If there are two jacks, the second corner is prepared for lifting. They also dig a hole for a pallet on which to place the next lift. They bring it under the log, place a plate on the head and lift the house. Place prepared bars and dies under the lower crown.
- Place the jack in the middle of the log. They do the same operations. Raise it a little, about 2 - 3 cm. Be sure to add stops.
- Return to the first corner. Raise it, trying to level the frame, but no more than 6 - 7 cm. Be sure to insert supports from chocks or blocks. They try to make sure that the entire side is supported.
- They inspect the building again.
- Jacks are removed from the reinforced and raised corners and the other side is prepared for lifting. Perform similar actions.
- Return to the first two corners and lift the house until the entire box is completely level. This is checked with a water level.
- The building must be raised clockwise or counterclockwise until the entire structure is level.
- Under the walls, reliable supports are placed under the lower crown along the entire perimeter of the building.
After the house is raised, it strengthened on all sides with supports. Then the repair work necessary for this object is carried out.
Unlike a large house, a bathhouse can be raised faster. This takes 1-2 days. In some cases, it can be raised within a few hours. The speed of work depends on experience. If you have no experience in how to lift a bathhouse using jacks, a video that can be easily found on the Internet can help with this.
Despite the fact that many buildings today are equipped with one or another heating system, brick heating structures do not lose their popularity. On the contrary, engineers and craftsmen are developing more and more new models of stoves, more compact, including various functions. Indeed, stove heating will never be superfluous for a private home, as it can help out the owners in different situations. For example, in autumn or spring, when the nights are cold, but it seems too early to turn on the autonomous heating, a heated stove will create a cozy atmosphere in the rooms and relieve them of excess humidity. The stove will help maintain an optimally favorable atmosphere and temperature balance in the house that is comfortable for humans.
Therefore, the search query about how to build a stove with your own hands, the drawings of which will tell in detail about the correct sequence of masonry work, does not leave the pages of the Internet. Today, even those people who have no experience as a stove maker at all show a desire to try their hand at this craft. If you decide to install a stove in your house on your own, then beginners are advised to choose a simple version of this structure with a clear procedure.
In addition to the availability of the design, when choosing, you should pay attention to its heat capacity, that is, how much area it is designed to heat. It is important to take into account the functionality of the structure and decide what you would like to get from it.
There are several main types of stoves - some of them perform only one main task - heating the house, others are used only for cooking, and others include several functions in their “set of capabilities”. Therefore, in order to decide on the right model, you need to know what each of the varieties is.
- the structure can not only heat one or two rooms, but also help cook food and boil water. If the model is equipped with an oven and a drying niche, then it becomes possible to bake bread and dry vegetables and fruits for the winter.
A heating and cooking stove is often built into a wall or acts as a wall itself - to do this, it is turned with the stove and firebox towards the kitchen, and with the back wall towards the living area of the house. You can solve two problems at once - heating the premises and making it possible to cook food in a separate room.
If the structure is additionally equipped with a fireplace, then the stove will work not only as a functional structure, but will also become a decorative decoration of the house.
- The heating type of stoves is designed only for heating the premises of the house. Some models have not only a combustion chamber, but also a fireplace. Thus, the oven can operate in two modes - when only one of the functions is used, or they are both activated simultaneously. Most often, heating stoves are built into the wall between rooms or installed in the middle of one large room, dividing it into zones.
A similar structure is erected both for the main heating of the house and as an additional one, which is used in the spring and autumn to maintain normal temperature and humidity in the rooms. Heating stoves are usually installed when the kitchen has already realized its own cooking capabilities, or in a house with a large total area, where several stoves are being built that perform different functions.
On a summer cottage in a small house, it is better to install a multifunctional structure that can help out in several situations at once.
- The cooking stove is built in the kitchen, and its design is designed specifically for quick cooking. However, this function does not deprive it of its heating capabilities, since its entire body, back wall and cast iron stove are well heated, releasing heat into the room.
The main function of this stove is cooking
The cooking stove is usually compact, so it is perfect for installing it in a country house or in a small kitchen of a private house.
Having such a compact but functional unit, you can eliminate the risk of freezing or being left without dinner and hot tea even if the electricity and gas supply is turned off.
Many different models of all listed types of furnaces have been developed. They can be very miniature and occupy a large area. Therefore, having settled on one of the models, before stocking up on materials for its construction, you need to measure and draw its base on the floor of the room in which it is planned to be installed. This way you can visually determine how much free space will remain in the room.
How to choose the right place to install the stove?
In order for the stove to work efficiently and transfer maximum heat to the premises of the house, and also be fireproof, it is necessary to choose the right location for it.
It is especially important to think through this point if the stove is built into a finished building, since the chimney pipe must pass between the ceiling beams and not accidentally bump into them, so the installation option must be calculated as accurately as possible.
A brick stove structure can be installed in different places in a room or between two rooms. Which place is better to choose will be discussed further.
- To get the maximum effect from the stove, you should not install it near the outside wall of the building, as it will cool down quickly and is unlikely to heat more than one room.
- Some stove models are installed in the center of the room or offset from it to one side or the other. This location is chosen if the room needs to be divided into separate zones. Moreover, different sides of the stove structure may have different decorative finishes, made in a style that matches the design of a specific area of the room.
- Quite often, the stove is built into a wall between two or even three rooms, which allows for the most efficient use of the generated heat. In this case, for fire safety purposes, it is very important to provide reliable insulation of the walls, ceiling and attic floor in the passage area
- When choosing an installation location, it is also necessary to ensure that each side of the foundation for the furnace should be 100÷150 mm larger than the base of the furnace itself.
- To accurately determine the size of the base and height of the stove, it is recommended to always choose a model that comes with an order diagram.
Having chosen a place for its installation, you can purchase all the necessary materials and prepare the necessary tools. The amount of materials will depend on the size and functional features of the stove model, and the tools for masonry are always the same.
Tools required for masonry work
To work you will need to prepare a very “solid” set of tools
Tools for laying bricks and pouring the foundation will require:
- Rule - This tool is used to level the surface of a concrete foundation.
- A hammer-pick is necessary for splitting and trimming bricks.
- Veselka is a wooden spatula that is used for grinding clay and lime mortar.
- A stove hammer is used to split bricks and remove dried mortar that has protruded beyond the masonry.
- A broom made from sponge is intended for cleaning the internal channels of the furnace from sand and solution that has got into them.
- A lead scriber is needed for markings if the stove is finished with tiles.
- A building level is necessary to control the evenness of the rows and the surface of the walls.
- A scriber is a rod used for markings.
- A plumb line is a cord with a weight designed to check the verticality of the output surfaces.
- A construction angle with a ruler to check the correctness of external and internal angles, as they must be perfectly straight.
- Pliers are used for bending and biting off wire to secure cast iron stove elements in masonry seams.
- Rasp - this tool is used to remove beads and grind in lumps in dried masonry.
- The chisel is used for splitting bricks and dismantling old masonry.
- A rubber hammer is necessary to level the bricks laid on the mortar using the tapping method.
- (trowels) of different sizes are used for applying mortar when laying bricks and removing the mixture protruding from the seams.
- Joining is a tool for leveling mortar in masonry joints. It is used if the masonry is done “for jointing”, without further cladding.
- Manual tamping will be required to compact the soil and backfill layers into the foundation pit.
- Containers for mixing solution and clean water.
- A sieve with a metal mesh for sifting sand.
- A stand for the convenience of working at heights, called “goats”. The surface of this device is of sufficient size not only for comfortable movement of the master, but also for installing a container filled with solution.
Arrangement of the foundation for a brick stove
The foundation for the stove is usually prepared together with the foundation of the house, but they should not be in contact with each other, much less be combined into a single structure. New foundations tend to shrink, which can lead to deformation of one of them, which will lead to damage to the other. That is why they must be installed separately from each other.
If you are building a stove in an already built house with a wooden floor, you will have to do quite a lot of work. In the place where the stove will be installed, the floor boards will have to be removed by cutting a hole to the size of the future foundation.
If the foundation under the house is monolithic, and the selected stove model is not too massive, then the structure can be erected on it, having previously laid waterproofing material on the installation site.
The foundation should have the shape of the base of the furnace, however, as mentioned above, each of its sides is made larger than the side of the furnace by 100 ÷ 150 mm.
- If the floor in the house is wooden, markings are made on it along which the boards will be cut.
- Then a pit is dug in the subfloor soil according to the shape of the future foundation, the depth of which can vary from 450 to 700 mm, depending on the composition of the soil.
- The bottom of the pit is compacted, and its walls are lined with plastic film or roofing felt.
- Then, a sand cushion 100÷150 mm thick is laid on the bottom, depending on the depth of the pit, and compacted well using a hand tamper.
- The next layer, on top of the sand, is filled with crushed stone, which is also compacted, if possible. This layer can be from 150 to 200 mm.
- Next, wooden formwork in the form of a box is installed along the perimeter of the pit. Moreover, polyethylene or roofing felt remains inside it, and then is fixed to the walls using a stapler and staples. This waterproof material will preserve the mortar poured into the formwork, preventing moisture from leaving it, which will give the slab the opportunity to dry and harden evenly.
- The foundation should have a height of approximately 250 mm below the level of the “clean” floor, that is, two rows of bricks will need to be laid on the finished foundation so that it rises flush with the floor surface.
- Some craftsmen, on the contrary, raise the foundation above the floor by 80÷100 mm in order to save bricks. The convenience of this solution also lies in the simpler joining of the side walls of the foundation with the surface of the floor covering.
- The next step is to install a reinforcement grid made of steel reinforcement 4÷6 mm thick into the formwork, to its entire height. The rods are tied together with wire twists.
- Next, in the lower part of the formwork, to a thickness of 250÷300 mm, you can pour a coarse concrete solution mixed with cement and gravel in proportions 1: 3, or cement, crushed stone of the middle fraction with the addition of sand, in a ratio of 1: 2: 1. But, in principle, you can use a regular concrete solution of sand and cement.
- If a coarse mixture is poured down, then immediately, without waiting for it to set, a finely mixed solution is laid out on top.
- The poured one is leveled according to the rule along the upper edges of the formwork boards, after which it is recommended to lay and sink 15÷20 mm into the solution a reinforcing mesh with cells of 50 mm.
- The surface of the foundation is leveled again, and if necessary, concrete mortar is added to the formwork, on top of the mesh.
- Next, the foundation is left to harden and gain strength - this process will take from three weeks to a month, depending on the thickness of the layers of the poured mortar. To make the concrete more durable, it is recommended to spray it with water every day during the first week, starting from the second day.
- Waterproofing is laid on top of the frozen foundation, consisting of two or three sheets of roofing material, which are laid one on top of the other.
- To begin laying the first row, it is recommended to make markings on the waterproofing material, indicating the location of the stove base. Thanks to the outlined perimeter of the base, it will be much easier to install the first row of bricks and maintain the evenness of the sides and corners.
After these preparatory works, you can proceed to the masonry.
Dry masonry
Even experienced craftsmen, when starting to lay a previously unfamiliar structure, first do it dry, that is, without mortar. This process helps to understand the intricacies of the internal channels of the furnace and not make mistakes during the main masonry. The entire structure is raised dry, and each of the rows must be laid out in accordance with the order applied to the stove model.
When performing dry masonry, it is necessary to maintain the thickness of the horizontal and vertical rows. To keep this parameter the same throughout the entire masonry, you can use slats 5 mm thick. Of course, it will be difficult to measure vertical seams with small pieces of slats when laying dry, so they will have to be determined visually, but for horizontal seams, slats must be used. By applying them, after laying out the last row of the structure, you can see the actual height of the stove.
As an example of using slats, you can consider this photo.
It is especially important to adhere to a uniform thickness of the seams if the masonry is being made for jointing and will not be finished with additional decorative materials in the future.
When making dry masonry, it is important to understand the configuration of the channel through which the smoke will leave the firebox and rise to the chimney. If a mistake is made when laying out this passage, then you will have to reposition part or even the entire structure of the stove, since backdraft may form and smoke will flow into the room during kindling.
Having raised the stove dry before laying the chimney pipe, the structure is dismantled. Moreover, if not only whole bricks, but also small fragments of them were used in the rows, then when disassembling each of the rows can be folded into a separate stack, putting the row number on one of the bricks. Sometimes, in addition, the number of the brick in each row is also indicated. Such a system will speed up the work, since all the material will be adjusted and laid out in the required order, and all that remains is to soak it one by one and place it in the rows of the oven, but already on the solution.
When performing the main laying, two slats are installed on the edges of the previous row, between which a solution 60÷70 mm thick is applied. Then the brick of the top row is placed on it, leveled and tapped until it rests against the slats. It is necessary to have such calibration devices for three rows, since it can be pulled out of the seam only after the solution has set. So, having laid out three rows, the slats are pulled out from the lowest seam, cleaned and laid on the fourth - and so on. If you are not sure that the vertical seams will be the same thickness, you can also prepare a short strip for them, which will be rearranged into the next seam immediately after leveling the two adjacent bricks.
After pulling the calibration strips out of the seam, there will be a fairly deep gap between the bricks. It is filled with mortar, the excess of which is removed with a trowel, and then put in order using jointing.
Processing seams for jointing
If the calibration slats were laid on both edges of the brick, then on the inside of the wall there will also be recesses between the seams. They also need to be carefully sealed, since the seams must be sealed, filled with mortar across the entire width of the brick.
It is very important, when laying on mortar, to check each of the laid rows with a building level so that the entire structure does not warp.
Such simple auxiliary devices as calibration slats will help to carry out the laying accurately with the same width of the seams. Therefore, the entire surface of the stove will look as if the design was made by a professional craftsman.
These nuances will help simplify the process of constructing a furnace structure and avoid mistakes that may lead to the need to redo the entire work.
Schemes for the construction of brick kilns
Yu. Proskurin's stove with heating and cooking functions and a drying chamber
The model developed by engineer Yu. Proskurin can be called one of the simplest designs of heating and cooking stoves, which even a novice master can easily master. Despite the compact size of the structure, the stove is capable of performing all the functions necessary for a small house, as it is equipped with a hob and a drying chamber, which, if desired, can be replaced with a water heating tank.
Such a stove is capable of heating one or two rooms with a total area of 17÷20 m², so it can be built into the wall between the kitchen and one of the small rooms of the house. At the same time, it certainly needs to be oriented in such a way that the structure faces the kitchen area with the slab.
The dimensions of this heating structure, excluding the height of the chimney, are 750x630x2070 mm. The stove has two operating modes - winter and summer, which allows you to use only the hob during the warm season, without unnecessary heating of the entire house. The heat transfer from the stove when it is fully fired is 1700 kcal/h.
To construct this heating structure, the following materials will be required:
| Name of materials and elements | Quantity (pcs.) | Element dimensions (mm) |
|---|---|---|
| Red brick M-200 (excluding pipe laying) | 281÷285 | 250×120×65 |
| Fire-resistant fireclay brick, grade Ш-8 | 82÷85 | 250×120×65 |
| Fire door | 1 | 210×250 |
| Doors for cleaning channels | 2 | 140×140 |
| Blower door | 1 | 140×250 |
| Summer damper for chimney | 1 | 130×130 |
| Fire valve | 1 | 130×130 |
| Stove valve | 1 | 130×130 |
| grate | 1 | 200×300 |
| Single burner hob | 1 | 410×340 |
| Steel strip | 1 | 40×260×5 |
| 1 | 40×350×5 | |
| 1 | 40×360×5 | |
| Steel corner | 1 | 40×40×635 |
| 3 | 40×40×510 | |
| 4 | 40×40×350 | |
| Roofing iron | 1 | 380×310 |
| Pre-furnace metal sheet | 1 | 500×700 |
To fill the foundation, it will be necessary to prepare cement, crushed stone, sand, gravel, roofing felt, reinforcing rod or steel wire 5-6 mm thick. If you decide to replace the drying chamber with a hot water tank, you will have to purchase or manufacture one as well.
In order for the work to be successful, before starting it, it is strongly recommended that you study the order very carefully, and during the laying process, keep this diagram always at hand.
This illustration shows this furnace schematically in several sections. Here you can clearly see how the chimney channels run inside the structure and trace the movement of smoke from the firebox to the chimney.
| Illustration (order) | Brief description of the operation performed |
|---|---|
 | The first row is continuous; it is laid out according to the configuration shown in the diagram. The row must be perfectly even, since the reliability and durability of the entire structure will depend on its correct laying. A row consists of 15 bricks. |
 | Second row. At this stage, the shape of the ash pit (ash chamber) and the bottom of two channels that will run vertically are laid. When laying out a row, openings are left for installing the doors of the blower and cleaning chambers. They are installed on the same row. A row is laid out of 13 bricks. |
 | To secure them in the masonry, cast iron doors are equipped with special lugs into which prepared pieces of wire are inserted. Next, their ends are twisted together and embedded in the seams between the rows of side walls. To prevent the door from moving from its installation location until it is completely fixed, it is temporarily supported with bricks. |
 | The third row is laid out according to the diagram. The walls of the blower and cleaning chamber are raised in it, and the ends of the wire are fixed in the seams between the rows of bricks, with the help of which the doors are fixed. To lay a row you will need 13 red bricks. |
 | Fourth row. The chamber of vertical channels is divided into two, since later they will be laid out separately. The cross-section of the channels along their entire height will be 80×120 mm. In addition, the installed doors overlap in this row. You need to prepare 13 red bricks. |
 | The fifth row is laid with refractory fireclay bricks, as the lower part of the firebox is formed. In the bricks that determine the location of the grate, a cut-out is made at a right angle from their inner edge. The cutout size should be approximately 10x10mm ± 1mm. The prepared bricks are laid above the blower chamber. To lay a row you will need 16 fireclay bricks. |
 | After this, on the fifth row, a grate is installed in the prepared recesses in the bricks. It is sometimes mounted on a clay mortar, but often without any mortar at all. In the latter case, the gaps between the grate and the brick, which should be about 3÷5 mm, are filled with sand. |
 | Sixth row. The walls of the two vertical channels continue to form, and the walls of the firebox begin to be built. Masonry is carried out only with fireclay bricks. The row consists of 12 fireclay bricks. |
 | Next, on the sixth row, a combustion door is mounted, which, like the blower door, is fixed with wire in the seams of the side walls. However, before installation, the firebox door is equipped not only with wire fastenings, but is also wrapped around the perimeter with asbestos cord. This process must be carried out to create a thermal gap that will allow the metal to expand when it is very hot. |
 | The seventh and eighth rows are laid out from 12 refractory bricks each and correspond to the ordering pattern. During their laying, the walls of the firebox continue to rise and vertical channels are formed. It is clear that the bricklaying in the rows is intertwined. |
 | When laying the ninth row, the combustion chamber door is closed. To remove the load from the cast-iron door, the edges turned towards the combustion chamber are cut off from the bricks installed on the side walls at the same angle of 30˚. These cuts will serve as a kind of support for the middle brick, cut on both sides at an angle of 60˚, that is, it should fit perfectly between the two outer bricks. You will need 12 fireclay bricks per row. |
 | On the tenth row, the fuel chamber is combined with the outermost vertical channel, since the smoke generated in the firebox was directed into this hole. In order to ensure the smooth flow of hot air, a protruding corner is cut off on the middle brick separating the combustion hole and the closed channel. This row will require 11 fireclay bricks. |
 | On the eleventh row, the masonry going around the combustion chamber is different in that it uses bricks with a cutout to a brick depth of 10 × 20 mm. This step is intended for laying the hob. For masonry you will need 11 fireclay bricks. |
 | After the 11th row is laid out, the step on the bricks is lined with asbestos strips or a layer of clay, 3÷4 mm thick (assuming a hob thickness of 5 mm). These spacers will serve as a cushion and thermal gap for the hob. Then, the hob is installed in the place prepared for it. On the side where the cooking chamber will be formed, the corner part of the masonry is reinforced with a metal corner. |
 | From the twelfth row, masonry will be made only with red brick. At this stage, the walls of the cooking chamber are laid, and the previously open vertical channel is again closed with a jumper. To lay this row you need to prepare 10 bricks. |
 | The 13th row is laid out according to the diagram, but in the outer part of the first vertical channel a place is formed for installing a valve designed to switch the furnace modes to winter or summer operation. To do this, cutouts are made in the brick to deepen the metal element. Next, the stationary part of the chimney valve is fixed to the prepared area using a clay-sand mortar. A row is laid out from 10 bricks. |
 | 14th ÷ 18th rows - each of them will require 10 bricks. The masonry on these rows has the same configuration, taking into account the dressing, and forms vertical channels and a cooking chamber. |
 | On the 18th row, the cooking chamber is covered with three steel corners, which form the basis for laying the next rows. One of these elements is installed on the edge of the “ceiling” of the cooking chamber, the second is rotated towards the first and installed at a distance of 250 mm from it (the size of a brick), and the third corner is pressed with its back side against the second. Looking at this design, it is quite possible to understand how the bricks should be laid. |
 | 19th row. When laying it out, 12 bricks cover the cooking chamber, but above it a steam exhaust hole is formed into which the valve will be installed. To install this element, cutouts are made in the edges of the bricks installed on three sides, and a layer is removed from the outer brick, making its thickness smaller. Next, a valve is secured to the prepared site using clay mortar. |
 | The 20th row is laid out according to the presented diagram. At this stage, the installed valve is closed and channel openings are formed. The side brick in the first vertical channel is cramped for a smooth flow of heated air. A row will require 15 bricks. |
 | On the 21st row, the first vertical channel and the hole for removing steam from the cooking chamber are combined into a common space. The masonry is carried out around the perimeter of the furnace, the brick is installed in the form of walls, and the second vertical channel is also framed. Moreover, the corner inner brick is cut off to ensure smooth escape of steam into the chimney. For laying you need to prepare 11 bricks. |
 | Next, on the same row, the resulting space is covered with steel strips, which will provide the basis for installing a metal plate and laying the next rows. |
 | The next step, which is carried out on the same row, is the installation of a roofing iron plate. With its help, a chimney hole is formed, located on the opposite side of the window for steam to escape from the hob. |
 | On the 22nd row, the brickwork is covered with a metal plate. Next, the laying is carried out according to the scheme. Only the channel openings remain open. Then a metal corner is installed on the outside of the oven, which will strengthen the front part of the bottom of the drying chamber. Laying a row will require 15 bricks. |
 | 23rd row - the walls of the drying chamber are formed. Its back wall is made of brick, installed on its side - it will separate the chamber from the opening of the chimney duct. 12 bricks are used. |
 | On the 24th row of 11 bricks, the walls of the chimney and two vertical channels, as well as the drying chamber, are formed. |
 | 25th row - work continues according to the diagram, the masonry is made of 12 bricks. The second brick of the back wall of the drying chamber is installed in the same way as the first, on the side. |
 | 26th row. At this stage, the vertical channels are prepared to be combined into one space, therefore, to direct the smoke in the desired direction, the bricks in the vertical channels are cut at a slight angle. To lay a row you will need 11 bricks. |
 | On the 27th row, two vertical channels are combined using masonry, and a cleaning door is installed on this common chamber. The back wall of the drying chamber is raised by another brick, which is installed on the side. A row consists of 11 bricks. |
 | On the 28th row, consisting of 10 bricks, masonry is performed according to a pattern similar to the 27th row. And then three metal corners cover the space of the drying chamber. |
 | On the 29th row, almost the entire area is covered with brickwork, which is installed in accordance with the diagram. Only the hole above the drying chamber is left open, where the valve will be installed in the cuts made on the bricks framing this opening. The outer brick is cut off, making its thickness smaller. A valve is installed in the prepared “nest” on the clay mortar. The row consists of 17 bricks. |
 | The 30th row, consisting of 16 bricks, completely covers the surface of the oven. The only exception is the chimney hole, the size of which is equal to half a brick. |
 | On the 31÷32nd rows, a chimney begins to form. |
If a decision is made to make
Heating with wood is hard work. Firewood needs to be prepared, dried, brought - all this takes time and requires effort. Therefore, a thrifty owner always tries to use the energy of each log as much as possible.
When designing or modifying a wood heating system at home, you should remember the basic rule - all elements must be proportionate, optimal and form a harmonious system. A huge firebox with little heat removal will reduce the level of efficiency, and vice versa, excessive heat removal will lead to operational problems.
The concept of “efficiency” means how much energy released during combustion is transferred in the form of heat to the heated room. This characteristic is influenced by a number of factors:
- Serviceability and cleanliness of the stove.
- Type of fuel burned.
- Fuel burning mode.
- Heat transfer method.
- Heat supply efficiency.
- Availability of additional fuel attachments.
Stove serviceability
A significant decrease in the efficiency of the furnace occurs when it is used incorrectly. There are different ways to burn wood, and if you burn it incorrectly, heat energy will be lost.
The soot deposited on the walls of the heat exchanger is an excellent heat insulator. To increase the efficiency of the furnace, you need to periodically, once every 2 months, clean all important parts from soot.
Attention! Soot in the furnace ducts and chimney can catch fire; do not allow deposits to accumulate in the heating system. Soot combustion is a common cause of fires!
The right fuel for your furnace
It is known that different types of wood produce different amounts of heat. You can increase the efficiency of your stove by using the right fuel. Hard types of wood - oak, acacia, ash - have a greater calorific value. In addition to density, an important characteristic is the moisture content of the firewood. Firewood with a moisture content of 15% is considered optimal, but such indicators can be achieved either by using a drying chamber, or by natural drying under a canopy for 2-3 years in ventilated stacks.
Optimal combustion modes
The fuel combustion mode is also important. There are different ways to burn fuel efficiently:
- In the mode of pyrolysis decomposition and afterburning of gases.
- In optimal fast combustion mode with sufficient oxygen access.
- Layered combustion of fuel from top to bottom.
Pyrolysis mode
When burning fuel in pyrolysis mode, the efficiency of the furnace increases due to the long combustion time. The firebox is divided into two chambers - a smoldering combustion chamber, where in a slow mode the firewood decomposes into pyrolysis combustible gases, and a gas afterburning chamber. Technically it looks like this:
- Firewood is placed in the firebox; initially, combustion occurs in a hot mode with the supply of a large amount of air. This stage is necessary to create a fire cushion on the wood, as well as to warm up the chimney and the secondary afterburning chamber.
- The firebox door closes. The air supply is set to a minimum - so that there is enough for smoldering. Firewood decomposes into smoky pyrolysis gases, which pass through a hot afterburning chamber.
- The second chamber has secondary air ducts. They are aimed at a catalyst - a massive hot ceramic or metal object. In some furnaces, the wall of the secondary chamber acts as a catalyst.
- Relatively cold pyrolysis gases, passing through the catalyst, are heated, mixed with air and burned.
This ensures complete combustion of the wood. The efficiency of pyrolysis combustion plants can reach 85 - 90%.
Disadvantages of this method of burning wood:
- Difficulty in realizing optimal combustion.
- Impossibility of altering existing fireboxes.
- Cold gases in the chimney turn into condensation, which floods the chimney.
Advantages of this combustion method:
- Duration of work on one tab. In Buleryan stoves, one bookmark is enough to burn for 5 - 8 hours.
- With the correct design of the firebox, the efficiency is high.
- Constancy of generated energy.
Forced combustion
The rapid combustion of firewood in a firebox with a sufficient amount of air will be optimal only if there is a large heat exchanger that can quickly store and retain a large amount of heat. In this case, it is ideal to use water as a coolant, and a large insulated tank as a heat accumulator.
To burn a large amount of fuel in an optimal manner, you will need an ash chamber and a grate. They can be organized in any existing firebox made of two metal plates or bricks. Installing an ash pan in a ready-made firebox will reduce the volume, but will add combustion efficiency.
How it works:
- A large amount of fuel is immediately placed into the combustion chamber, which will burn throughout the entire mass from the bottom up.
- After kindling, the main door closes, the ash pan door opens, and the combustion is regulated.
- The flame should be smooth, hot, without jerks of detonation or pops. The color of the flame is straw with red or blue streaks.
- In this express mode, combustion continues until coals are formed. The ash pan door is closed, the firebox operates in slow mode.
Features of application:
- An oven with a grate can be converted into a hearth by covering the grate with a sheet of metal.
- Brick channels or a massive bell-shaped structure can provide good heat removal. An incorrect ratio between a powerful firebox and a small heat exchanger will lead to a significant amount of heat being “blown out” onto the street.
- You cannot use this mode if there is poor draft - this will lead to smoke inside the room.
- Not every firebox can withstand the heat of burning dry wood. Plain red brick or thin metal can burn or crumble. If possible, use this mode in fireboxes lined with fireclay bricks.
Gradual combustion of fuel
Fast mode with layer-by-layer combustion of wood can be achieved using special air supply systems. This solution is implemented in Stropuva long-burning boilers, but simple fireboxes are quite suitable for conversion.
One or more air ducts made of pipes are inserted into the firebox. Their purpose is to supply air to the combustion site. Air ducts run from the door to the top of the firebox. Slotted holes are cut in the vertical sections of the air ducts. The firebox works like this:
- Firewood is packed tightly into the firebox and can be sprinkled with sawdust or peat. Kindling made of paper and wood chips is lit on top of the bookmark. Until it flares up, the firebox operates in the mode of a conventional deck oven.
- When the kindling flares up, smoothly close the firebox opening with a sealing metal sheet. The sheet has holes for air ducts. The sheet must fit tightly to prevent air from entering the thickness of the fuel.
- The fuel burns using air from the duct. Combustion is optimal, but produces a small amount of heat.
- The fuel burns gradually, first of all burning out near the air duct. If the fuel is burned far from the tube, the air may not reach the combustion site. It is worthwhile to arrange several air ducts evenly, connected to one intake hole.
This combustion method has only one advantage - a long period of autonomous operation. Increased efficiency is achieved thanks to the gradual combustion mode; even a small heat exchanger is able to capture heat and transfer it to the room. This method is perfect for upgrading potbelly stoves and wood-burning boilers, but it is not suitable for brick stoves. An advantage will also be the ease of retrofitting existing fireboxes - anyone can design and manufacture air ducts and a sealing plate from pipes and sheet metal.
Disadvantages of this method of burning wood:
- Difficulty loading firewood.
- Difficulty of kindling.
- It’s difficult to control the intensity of the flame - you can’t open it and “look” at it. You will have to use indirect methods - a thermometer in the heat exchanger.
- Inability to “throw” firewood.
Heat removal optimization
You can increase the efficiency of your heating system by removing a large amount of heat and transferring it into the room. You can do this in two ways:
- Infrared radiation - from a burning flame or hot walls.
- Heating air or water in the firebox.
Hearths were traditionally heated with open flames in Europe. A fashionable fireplace has a low efficiency, but it only uses infrared radiation. The light of a burning flame in conventional stoves is used to heat the walls of the firebox. In most cases, heating the firebox is not beneficial. You can use part of the heat emitted during bright combustion with a transparent door of a large firebox. You won't be able to use plain glass - it may burst. Heat-resistant glass is inserted into the doors.
Heating-type stoves have proven to be effective. The Winter Palace, the Hermitage, and the Arsenal were heated by Uttermark stoves. The burning fuel heated the pipes in which the air moved. Such heating made it possible to obtain fantastic results in terms of speed and efficiency. By laying dry pipes in the firebox, you can quickly warm up the room with dry warm air. In residential premises, you can use forced air supply, influx from the street and humidification. This way you can control not only the temperature, but also the humidity, as well as the amount of carbon dioxide. The downside is the difficulty of implementation in ready-made brick kilns.
By inserting a central heating circuit into the furnace, you can increase heat output and effectively transfer heat throughout the building. In this case, an increase in heating efficiency is achieved by increasing the heat exchange area; less heat escapes into the pipe.
We build a furnace with high efficiency
Let's look at examples of building furnaces from scratch, in which the approach to increasing efficiency was brilliantly implemented.
Kuznetsov brick bell furnace
The efficiency of this furnace is increased by complete and hot combustion of fuel, secondary combustion of pyrolysis gases, free movement of gases, and a large heat exchange area. The large mass of bricks perfectly accumulates and retains heat. The bell-type design is popularly called “greedy” - the temperature of the exhaust gases is lower than that of conventional channel furnaces.
To build such a stove, you need to follow the following steps:
- We are preparing a stove project. Ready-made projects are freely available and can be modified to suit your needs.
- Preparation of tools and materials. A mason's hammer, a trowel, a level, a plumb line, an angle grinder with a diamond blade - you don't need anything else to build a brick kiln. We buy red stove bricks and refractory fireclay for lining the firebox. The temperature in the firebox can rise above 900 degrees, and the red brick may well crumble. It is better to choose cast iron doors, with seals and glass. Clay can be dug up in a nearby quarry and mixed with sand.
- We are preparing the foundation. To do this, we determine a place, dig a pit and fill it with rubble concrete. The upper level of the foundation should be 14-15 cm below the floor level. It is better to place the stove in the center of the house; be sure to calculate the passage of the chimney through the ceilings.
- We lay the first rows of the stove on cement mortar, the rest of the stove is placed on clay. We lay thermal insulation and waterproofing between the brick and the foundation. The first row is the most important; all planes of the oven will be oriented along its corners.
- We tie up the ash pan and side channels. We take into account the size of the doors for cleaning. If they are not there, we lay the brick on its edge, it will be knocked out.
- We cover the ash pan and lay the first row of fireclay. We place a cast iron grate under the firebox, under which a groove is selected in the brick with a gap of 1.5 cm.
- We line the firebox with refractory bricks. We provide a gap between the fireclay and the red brick. It is convenient to lay the packaging cardboard as a template. Fireclay is placed on fireproof mortal clay. When laying fireclay, a dry seam is made at the back wall - masonry without mortar with a gap of 1 cm. It is needed to facilitate kindling and access of secondary air.
- We lay out the walls of the furnace and make the moves. We install the door on anchor plates or wire.
- We close the firebox and form the first cap. We control the level of all horizontal and vertical planes. We rub the seams from the inside with a damp mitten.
- We lay out the second cap, cover it with two rows of bricks - a roof.
- We remove the chimney. It is best to use a straight brick pipe, lined and insulated with perlite.
- We dry the oven for 2 months with the cleaning doors open, and then put it back into operation with frequent but small fires. This is necessary to prevent the oven from cracking.
- To increase the efficiency of the heating system, a heat exchanger made of pipes can be installed in the first cap. The heat in the hood lasts for a long time, so the coolant will heat up inside the massive furnace for a long time and evenly.
Kuznetsov's bell-type stove is a bright representative of the principle of rapid combustion of wood, accumulation of heat in the stove mass and its gradual release from the heated walls by infrared into the room.
The Buleryan furnace is the leader in efficiency among metal furnaces
Long-burning metal stove "Buleryan". The high efficiency of this furnace is ensured by the pyrolysis combustion mode; the furnace of this furnace consists of dry pipes. The temperature of the gases leaving the air heaters does not exceed 150 - 200 degrees, the air does not burn out and does not dry out. If Buleryan is heated incorrectly, in a hot mode, its efficiency can be compared with any potbelly stove.
To build Buleryan we will need metalworking skills and the ability to make sealed welds. Accordingly, you will need a welding machine (preferably a semi-automatic MIG), an angle grinder, a plumbing and measuring tool. You will need a pipe bender to bend the pipes, but this can be replaced with a large lever.
- Materials for the stove are not difficult to find - you need 10 - 14 pieces of pipe for the frame, sheet metal, blanks for the door and hinges.
- The first step is to weld the frame from pipes bent according to a template. It turns out to be a kind of “chest”; the spaces between the “ribs” need to be hermetically sealed.
- A shelf of the secondary chamber is installed inside the resulting frame. We measure it using a cardboard template, bend it and weld it. After we weld the last ribs, secondary air tubes are laid.
- We dampen the ends of the resulting cylinder, remove the chimney from the afterburning chamber, and weld a round door at the front end. We seal the door joint with a lock filled with asbestos cord.
- We attach damper regulators to the chimney and air intake.
- The oven is ready for installation. When connecting, it is important to remember that the chimney can become very hot. A slow fire can lead to the formation of condensation, so it is better to use a lined stainless steel chimney.
The Buleryan stove is a prominent representative of long-burning calorific stoves without a heat accumulator, with rapid heat transfer to the air. It needs to be heated in pyrolysis mode, with minimal air supply.
Experimental folk methods for increasing efficiency
There is information that the efficiency of the furnace can be increased if heated steam is supplied to the fuel combustion zone. The burning of water is a controversial phenomenon and is surprising. Users of water combustion systems claim that heat output increases by 20%. The nature of the phenomenon is as follows: water is supplied through the firebox into the fuel combustion zone.
The high temperature causes the water to decompose and burn again, which adds temperature to the firebox and saves gas.
You can increase the efficiency of a wood-burning stove by making a rocket-type fuel attachment. Combustion in such a firebox occurs at the bottom; the firewood is installed horizontally and falls under its own weight into the combustion zone. The combustion is bright and occurs due to draft. Users of such fireboxes claim that they save wood and have a long self-burning time.
Additional factors for improving heating in the house
You can improve the heating of your home not only by improving the firebox and heat removal. By reducing the heat loss of a building, more significant results can be achieved. Installing high-quality windows, insulating floors and walls, installing an air recirculation and recovery system is sometimes cheaper than redoing the heating system.
When improving heating, you should use only proven methods for improving fuel combustion. In this case, it is better to calculate the savings and funds spent on refurbishment.
How to raise a house with your own hands: step-by-step instructions
The use of wood for the manufacture of cottages and country houses is popular. Many people prefer logs, panel structures and beams, which are environmentally friendly and, subject to special processing and proper installation, ensure the durability of the building. During the operation of houses made of wood, it becomes necessary to restore the foundation or replace the supporting crown. The light weight of wooden buildings allows the house to be lifted using powerful jacks.
Knowing how to raise a house with your own hands, you can move a one-story building vertically and temporarily fix it with concrete blocks or metal supports. At the same time, it is important to prevent collapse, maintain the integrity of the finish, and not disturb the geometry of window and door openings.
Before you start lifting the house, you need to do a number of preparatory work
When making a responsible decision to jack up a house without hiring hired workers, you should perform a set of works, prepare the tools and materials necessary for lifting, and also carefully study the technology. Particular attention should be paid to observing safety precautions. Let us consider this complex of issues in detail.
What kind of houses can be jacked up?
Modern technical means and proven technology make it possible to raise one-story wooden buildings made of the following materials:
- rounded logs;
- square beams;
- wooden shields.
Preparatory work, necessary materials and tools
At the preparatory stage, it is necessary to inspect the building, assess the degree of complexity and duration of the planned repairs, determine the method of lifting, and carry out work to protect the structure from destruction during movement.
If there are problems with the foundation, there are two options - build a new house or try to restore and replace it
The need for repairs by lifting a wooden building is indicated by visual signs:
- significant skew or tilt of the house;
- the appearance of a network of cracks on the interior and exterior finishes;
- local or complete subsidence;
- deepening part of the foundation into the ground;
- significant violation of the integrity of the foundation.
The vertical movement of the structure is carried out to carry out the following types of activities:
- Performing partial or major repairs of the foundation.
- Preventing subsidence of the structure.
- Replacement of rotted support beams around the perimeter of the building.
- Alignment of box distortions.
- Carrying out protective treatment of wood.
- Eliminating mistakes made by builders.
Most often it is necessary to raise a wooden house when problems arise with the foundation
In order to determine the method by which the house will be raised using special devices, the following factors are analyzed at the preliminary stage:
- mass of the building. Each jack must provide a 40% lifting capacity. To do this, the total weight of the structure is calculated by multiplying the cubic capacity of the box by the specific gravity of wood equal to 0.8 t/m3. The weight of the floor, roofing and finishing is added to the resulting number;
- dimensions of the building box. With a building length of more than six meters, there is a high probability of beams or logs subsiding in the splice zone. Additional installation of supporting elements at the joining areas will be required;
- presence of internal lining. Using plasterboard sheets or plaster to decorate walls indoors complicates the implementation of activities. Installing 50 mm thick boards on the outside of the corners will avoid repeated repairs indoors;
- soil features. Depending on the structure of the soil on which the lower plane of the lifting device will rest, it may be necessary to use concrete blocks or special panels of increased area. This will prevent the jack from sinking;
- travel height. The length of the working stroke of the rod is limited by the design of the lifting device. The use of special pads made of durable square-section timber with a side size of 100–150 mm will allow you to gradually achieve the required moving height;
- duration of repair activities. The duration of the repair is determined by the degree of complexity; if it is carried out for a long time, it is undesirable to rest the structure on the rod. It is advisable to use temporary structures made of metal and wood that have sufficient supporting area.
Sometimes a bad site is chosen to build a building, then they put a new foundation in another place and drag the house
Raising the house to the height required for repairs can be carried out using the following equipment:
- By crane. It is used mainly for the purpose of lifting to move buildings to another site.
- Powerful jacks. A widespread method of moving wooden buildings in a vertical plane.
When planning to raise a house on jacks, you should prepare:
- cut off the power supply;
- turn off the gas supply;
- shut off water mains;
- turn off the sewer system;
- ensure free movement of a stove installed on an independent foundation through the roof of the chimney;
- disconnect the individually mounted boiler from the heating pipes;
- dismantle the floor in the area of the stove and heating boiler;
- secure the immobility of the box with steel plates screwed to the corners.
Use a jack to lift the frame slightly. Only 2-3 cm at a time