Chrysanthemum is the birthplace of the plant. Homemade chrysanthemum in a pot. Care and cultivation features. Varieties, types and varieties

Having seen everything in the world,
My eyes are back again
To the white chrysanthemum.

(From Japanese haiku tercet)

On this website page, the final chapter from the book N. Ya. Ippolitova "The Language of Flowers". Today the author talks about the history of chrysanthemums, methods of growing and propagating chrysanthemums.

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Iris, planting tricks, soil, propagation of irises
Dahlia, how to propagate dahlias, planting and care
Chrysanthemum, history, cultivation, propagation of chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemum, history of the origin of chrysanthemum

About chrysanthemums in the book by N. F. Zolotnitsky “Flowers in Legends and Traditions” we find the following words: “Their flowers are sometimes curled, like curls, sometimes flat, like an aster’s, sometimes shaggy, sometimes bristly, sometimes tiny, like buttons, sometimes huge, like a sunflower...”

Coloring They are, however, quite modest - between yellowish-white and dark red-brown, but their shades and tints are unusually diverse. The chrysanthemum has been a particularly favorite flower in Japan since ancient times. The very image of this flower was sacred, and only members of the imperial house had the right to wear clothes with its design. Violation of this law was punishable by death. The reason for such a high reverence for this flower is explained by its name - “kiku” (sun).

Chrysanthemum The Japanese considered it a symbol of this luminary that gives life to everything on Earth. In autumn, Japan celebrated a magnificent national holiday - the Chrysanthemum Festival.

Homeland of chrysanthemum. The birthplace of chrysanthemum is China. In late autumn, when almost all ornamental plants have already withered, the chrysanthemum blooms: it is not afraid of short-term frosts and even in the northern regions it produces seeds.

Small-flowered (Korean) chrysanthemum. Small-flowered (Korean) chrysanthemum forms a spreading or compact bush, completely covered with flowers. The inflorescences of the Korean chrysanthemum are of three types: non-double have one kind of reed flowers at the edges of the basket, semi-double - several rows of reed flowers, double ones consist of only reed (petal) flowers.

Proper cultivation of chrysanthemums, place for planting chrysanthemums

Growing chrysanthemum. For proper and successful cultivation of chrysanthemums, choose an open, sunny place. The fact is that in the shade the color of the flowers fades and the flowering period is shortened.

Chrysanthemum needs to be protected from cold spring and autumn winds. For this you can use fences and screens made of slats. The soil must be fertile and sufficiently moisture-absorbing, but the plant cannot tolerate excess moisture. The soil should have neutral acidity; chrysanthemum grows poorly on acidic soils, and it cannot tolerate unrotted manure.

Soil for planting chrysanthemums, soil preparation

Before planting chrysanthemums humus (1-2 buckets per 1 m2) and mineral fertilizers (50-66 g potassium magnesium and 50-60 g superphosphate) are added to the soil. They dig to a depth of 20-25 cm. Planting must be carried out with watering.
With good care, which includes weed control, frequent loosening, watering, and fertilizing, Korean chrysanthemums develop quickly.
On dry soils, the stems become lignified (in a small stage), flowering weakens and gradually stops.

When to feed Charysanthemums. Chrysanthemums are fed from the end of June, best with a solution of mullein with phosphorus and potassium (20-25 g per 10 liters of water) followed by watering.

Propagation of chrysanthemums, shelter for the winter

Korean chrysanthemums are propagated by seeds and cuttings, as well as by dividing the bush. Plants obtained from seeds do not repeat the parental forms. Chrysanthemum cuttings are best done in March., for this you need to have either a greenhouse or a greenhouse.
The easiest, although not as productive The method of propagating chrysanthemums is by dividing the bush.
The bush is divided into parts so that each has 3-4 shoots. Lignified and dead parts are removed.

After an unsuccessful overwintering, the shoots die, and the bush seems lifeless. Don't rush to dig it up and throw it away. Almost certainly, new shoots will appear from adventitious buds from the root system a little later.
Korean chrysanthemums need to be covered for the winter. To do this, after the first frost, the bushes are pruned to 15-17 cm above the soil level and covered with small dry branches, on top of which dry leaves are sprinkled.

Chrysanthemums in garden plots

Korean chrysanthemums widely used in landscaping garden plots. They are spectacular both in groups and in single plantings, in ridges and flower beds.
Chrysanthemums are great to cut and arrange. Bouquets of chrysanthemums are bright, cheerful and last a very long time in water. They are also good because they can withstand replanting in any phase and even in full flowering. Therefore, in December you can have chrysanthemums blooming in pots at home.
N. Ya. Ippolitova, Candidate of Agricultural Sciences

Late autumn

No flower compares

With white chrysanthemum.

Give her your place,

Stay away from it, morning frost!

Saigyo (Sato Narikiye)

Garden chrysanthemum, a perennial planting and caring for most gardeners that brings more pleasure than work, decorates gardens and flower beds until the coldest weather. Blooming from the second half of summer until the frosty days of late autumn, chrysanthemums are often called the queens of the autumn ball. The delicate, slightly bitter aroma and variety of colors combine the joy of summer and the sadness of autumn.

Origin of chrysanthemum

Although the history of chrysanthemums goes back more than one and a half thousand years, scientists still have not come to a consensus on where this beautiful autumn flower came from in modern gardens. The magical legends about the chrysanthemum and the special respect it enjoys in Japan persuade researchers to believe that the homeland of the autumn beauty is the East.

Interesting! Until now, chrysanthemums have not been found in the wild in nature.

According to one legend, the chrysanthemum appeared on earth from parts of the sun, which was stolen by an evil dragon, which is confirmed by its very name - golden-flowered, translated from Greek. In China, chrysanthemums were cultivated in garden conditions back in the 5-6th century BC. e., in any case, the first written mention of it comes from Confucius. By the way, these wonderful words belong to him:

“If you want to be happy all your life, grow chrysanthemums”

But it came to European countries only in the 17th century. The French and the British are still arguing where exactly it appeared first - in England or in France, but the chrysanthemum came to gardeners in Russia in the 19th century.

Types and varieties of perennial chrysanthemum photo

More than seven hundred varieties of chrysanthemum, which today are actively grown by flower growers in all countries, are usually classified according to the type of inflorescence:

• pompon - a small round inflorescence;
• pinnate, in which the core is not visible behind the double petals;
• bristly - double inflorescences with thin, beautifully curved petals;
• simple or semi-double, very similar to daisies;
• anemone-shaped, which have a flat inflorescence with a well-opened core;
• fantasy, as a type of pinnate, with graceful elongated petals;
• spoon-shaped, in which the petals are thin at the core and widen towards the ends;
• Korean - especially resistant to cold, with small inflorescences;
• large-flowered, the flower diameter of which sometimes exceeds 12 centimeters;
• multiflora, forming a ball-shaped bush with numerous small flowers.

All of the listed species, as well as varieties and hybrids of chrysanthemums, are conventionally divided into two large groups - tall and short. Tall chrysanthemums are planted in groups, even in masses, while low-growing chrysanthemums look great in borders, mixborders, and also in free-standing garden containers.

According to the degree of resistance to unfavorable breeding and growing conditions, chrysanthemums can be divided into three groups:

1. Korean varieties of chrysanthemums, or oaks, as they are often called in Russia, are considered the hardiest; they can be grown in very cold regions.
2. The Susan’s Bonnet variety is also cold-resistant and is suitable for cultivation throughout almost the entire territory of our country.
3. Fantasy, a Japanese variety more accustomed to mild climates, grows and blooms well in the southern regions.

Planting garden perennial chrysanthemum

Selecting a location

Important! Chrysanthemums do not tolerate shade very well: the stems stretch out, become thin, brittle, the flowers become very small, it is quite possible that they will not appear at all or they will bloom too late. Also, these flowers categorically do not like places where water stagnates, melt, rain or after watering.

Therefore, when determining a place for planting chrysanthemums, you need to choose open sunny places. In this case, preference is given to slightly elevated areas, since water does not stagnate there.

You also need to take into account that strong winds negatively affect the development of chrysanthemums, so the place for planting them must be protected from the wind.

Soil for chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums are also demanding on the soil. They grow well in neutral or slightly acidic soils. At the same time, in addition to good moisture permeability, the soil is required to be loose and rich in organic nutrients.

If the area suitable for illumination is characterized by dense or infertile soil, it must be improved before planting flowers.

To improve drainage, coarse river sand, previously well washed, is usually used. To increase fertility, either rotted manure, compost or peat are added to the soil.

It is quite enough to add one bucket of such organic matter for each square meter of planting. There is no point in increasing this amount, since on overly fertilized soil the chrysanthemums will “fatten”: there will be a lot of greenery and leaves, but there will be very few buds and flowers.

If the soil is sandy or light, it is weighted with humus or turf soil. It is also recommended to apply complex mineral fertilizer during planting; this is done directly on site: poured into a hole or trench.

Boarding time

The best time to plant perennial chrysanthemums is the spring months. In this case, they will take root well before the fall and develop sufficiently to please you with flowers in the fall. Since planting material is usually purchased in the spring, as a rule, these are rooted cuttings or cuttings of bushes, they will need to be planted in the near future. For the Middle Zone this is usually the end of May - beginning of June.

Important! Cuttings and divisions are planted when the threat of return frosts has finally passed.

Planting chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums are usually planted in cloudy, even rainy weather. If the days are sunny, planting is done either in the morning or before sunset.

I dig holes for chrysanthemums that are not very deep - so that the roots fit into them without being buried. If a tall variety is planted, you need to immediately dig in supports for the plants so as not to subsequently injure the roots.

Chrysanthemums are planted at a distance of 25-50 centimeters from each other; in most cases, a more accurate figure is determined by varietal characteristics. There is no need to shake off the soil from the roots, this way the cuttings and divisions will take root much faster.

After planting, it is advisable to water the soil around the cuttings (divisions) with a root formation stimulator, this will quickly form a powerful root system, and by autumn the plant will be strong and healthy.

At first, the seedlings need to be covered with non-woven material. The shelter will protect them from the hot sun or from unexpected cold snaps in spring.

Caring for garden chrysanthemum

Chrysanthemum is considered a completely unpretentious garden plant. But she still needs care. The main maintenance measures are watering, fertilizing, loosening, mulching, tying to supports.

H. Korean

Watering and loosening

The extremely drought-resistant chrysanthemum nevertheless simply loves moisture. Usually, before the flowering period, it needs abundant watering, without which its stems become coarser, the leaves wither and fall off, the flowers become smaller and fade.

The most important months for chrysanthemums are the first months after planting, when its root system forms and grows. At this time, it especially needs abundant watering and regular (at least once a week) loosening of the soil. After a month, loosening is stopped, since the growth of young shoots from the roots begins, and they are easily damaged during loosening.

Mulching

No less than moisture, chrysanthemum loves mulching. Pine needles or chopped bark, as well as oat straw, are best suited for this purpose. Mulch will protect the plant from pathogens of fungal diseases that can get on the stems and leaves during watering or rain with drops of water.

Top dressing

Since chrysanthemums grow quickly, they need frequent feeding.

Important! Any fertilizers are applied in liquid form only at the root and only in moist soil.

In the first one and a half to two months, when the chrysanthemum is actively growing green mass, it needs fertilizers in the ratio N:P:K (nitrogen - phosphorus - potassium) = 2:1:1.

The nitrogen component has a positive effect on the height of flowers, the number of young shoots, the degree of color and the size of leaves and flowers. It should be taken into account that the lack of nitrogen fertilizers leads to fading of the color of the leaves and petals, the flowers are small and ugly.

Important! During the period of green mass growth, chrysanthemums are fertilized with ammonia nitrogen, and during budding - with nitrates.

The first feeding is carried out immediately after planting, when the seedlings begin to grow. The second feeding, preferably with mullein or a solution of bird droppings, is applied two weeks after the first.

When the first buds appear, the chrysanthemum will need phosphorus-potassium supplementation. Phosphorus increases the quantity and quality of flowers, increases flowering time, and also has a positive effect on plant resistance to diseases. Phosphorus fertilizers or bone meal are applied at the rate of 50 grams per square meter.

Potassium also improves the immunity of chrysanthemums and improves the quality and appearance of inflorescences. Potassium sulfate is usually used as a fertilizer; it is considered most suitable for chrysanthemums.

Appearance care and garter of chrysanthemums

Since pests often settle in old, withered leaves, and they are also the most vulnerable from the point of view of diseases, they must be plucked off in a timely manner throughout the entire growing season.

To prevent the stems of chrysanthemums from being damaged by wind or heavy rain, as they grow, they are tied to supports - stakes, which are dug in during planting.

Planting perennial chrysanthemums before winter

Although it is best to plant chrysanthemums in the spring, fall planting is also possible. Moreover, in the fall you can see them in all their glory and buy not a pig in a poke, but something that really fascinates.

Important! Autumn planting of chrysanthemums must be completed before the end of September.

For southern regions this period is extended by 2-3 weeks. The guideline should be the approximate time for complete rooting - 5-6 weeks.

Important! If the bush purchased in the fall is large, it cannot be divided so as not to prolong the stress of the plant dug out of the ground during the flowering period.

After planting, flowers and all buds must be removed: the flower should not expend energy on flowering, they must be directed to rooting and engraftment. Chrysanthemums are left in this state until the first frost, and then the stems are cut as close to ground level as possible. Then the bush is covered with dry leaves or peat. If these materials are not at hand, the bushes are covered with dry soil.

If the winter is cold and snowless, chrysanthemums planted in autumn will need additional shelter. It is constructed using spruce branches, dry plant residues, cardboard boxes or wooden (plywood) boxes. At the same time, there is a need to control the air temperature: if there are signs of steady warming, the shelters need to be dismantled so that the roots and shoots of chrysanthemums do not dry out.

Propagation of perennial chrysanthemum

Chrysanthemums reproduce in three main ways:

• through seeds;
• cuttings;
• dividing the bush.

Most gardeners prefer cuttings as the most effective way to obtain excellent planting material that retains all varietal characteristics and features.

Sowing seeds

Propagation of perennial chrysanthemums by seeds is a thankless process: all species and varieties are complex hybrids, and even God does not know what will grow from seeds collected independently.

However, surprise lovers often experiment with seeds of small-flowered varieties. Chrysanthemum seeds are sown both as seedlings and directly in open ground. In the second half of February or early March, seeds are sown in seedling boxes with moist soil for early flowering.

Important! The seeds are not buried, as they need light to germinate.

Chrysanthemum seeds germinate fairly quickly - within a week. The grown seedlings dive into separate pots, where they grow until the time when they can be planted in open ground - approximately until mid-May. At the end of June you will be able to admire the first flowers.

In open ground, seeds are sown in May, in soil prepared as for cuttings or seedlings. Usually several seeds are placed in each hole. The holes are placed at a distance of 25-30 centimeters. These chrysanthemums will bloom in the fall.

It will not be superfluous to know that there are cases when chrysanthemums grown from seeds begin to bloom only in the second year.

Cuttings

Chrysanthemum cuttings are cut throughout the growing season, but preference should still be given to those cut in spring or autumn.

For cuttings, strong, low shoots are usually selected, from which the upper part with three to four leaves is cut off. The lower ones are removed, it is better to leave the upper ones, as they speed up the rooting process. Spring cuttings are planted immediately in the ground and cared for like a ready-made chrysanthemum bush: regularly watered, loosened the soil and fed.

Cuttings cut in autumn are planted in pots with fertile, loose soil. For several weeks, usually 4-6, they are watered moderately; to maintain moisture, you can cover them with a transparent lid. Then the pots with cuttings are transferred to a bright, cool room with a temperature of 4-6 degrees. With moderate watering, they are kept in these conditions until the first days of February.

At the beginning of February, pots with cuttings should be placed in a bright, warm room, air temperature 12-16 0C, and watered abundantly. A week after the move, the first fertilizing is carried out with a nitrogen-containing fertilizer, for example, 20 grams of ammonium nitrate diluted in 10 liters of water.

Interesting! Practice shows that it is not necessary to cut the stems to prepare chrysanthemum cuttings. Cuttings that break off from the stems take root and take root well.

Autumn cuttings also apply to those chrysanthemums that are sold as cut flowers, and it does not matter how long ago the flowers were cut. Before planting, the cuttings are preliminarily kept for 6-8 hours in a solution of a root formation stimulator. The further process of their rooting is the same as for freshly cut cuttings.

Dividing the bush

Chrysanthemum bushes are divided at any warm time of the year, including during flowering, if necessary. But at the beginning of summer, young shoots grow at maximum speed, and dividing the bush during this period will be most effective.

To divide, dig up a bush with a large number of young shoots, free the roots from the ground and cut them so that each separated shoot has its own root. But if some shoots end up without roots, there won’t be much trouble - they take root easily, like ordinary cuttings.

Then the cuttings are planted in holes dug in such a way that the roots fit into them. In this case, deepening of the stems is not required.

Important! During the entire rooting period, the soil under the bushes should be moist.

The planted divisions are pinched, each sprout above the 5th leaf, then the overgrown stepsons are pinched, also above the 4th or 5th leaf. If a large-flowered chrysanthemum bush is divided, pinching is done only once.

For better growth and full development of chrysanthemums, it is recommended to divide and plant them once every three years, but at least once every five years.

Chrysanthemum multiflora

The relatively recently appeared multiflora chrysanthemum has won the hearts of many gardeners. The main reasons are the spherical bush, which easily fits into any garden composition, abundant early flowering and a large selection of colors.

Multiflora is a small-flowered chrysanthemum that is usually grown in garden pots or containers. She feels great in greenhouses, on balconies, verandas, and in open ground. Among the multiflora there are varieties that begin to bloom in August.

X, multiflora

H. multiflora globulus

X. multiflora Branopal Pink

Multiflora is interesting because its spherical shape does not require effort to maintain; it does not need to be pinched or pinched. That's genetics. One small cutting per season is formed into a fluffy ball strewn with small bright flowers. To do this, it only needs one pinching at the stage of the second pair of true leaves.

Important! Although the multiflora chrysanthemum is similar in appearance to indoor varieties, it is not suitable for indoors.

Caring for multiflora is no different from caring for garden perennial chrysanthemums. The only difference is in the organization of wintering.

At the end of flowering or upon the onset of cold weather, the above-ground part of the multiflora is cut off to give additional incentive to the spring formation of young strong shoots.

Multiflora growing in open ground should be dug up and placed in a container for the winter. When cold weather sets in, all containers are brought into a cool, dark room, the temperature in which is in the range of 3-5 0 C, not too humid. All care during the wintering period consists of keeping the soil moist.

Multiflora of open ground can survive winter without digging only in the southern regions, but it is necessary to build a light shelter that is removed during thaws and with the onset of consistently warm weather.

In April, containers with multiflora are placed in a bright, cool room. When the buds begin to grow, the mother bush is divided and planted either in suitable containers or in open ground, adding complex mineral fertilizers and organic matter to the soil.

Multiflora does not tolerate shaded places, winds and stagnant water. In hot weather, container bushes need more frequent and abundant watering, but overwatering is unacceptable. When planting multiflora in open ground, you need to maintain a distance between bushes of at least 60 centimeters.

Chrysanthemum multiflora is a rather expensive plant, since it is sold already in bloom. It is interesting that sellers of multiflora very rarely admit to buyers that these flowers are perfectly propagated by cuttings or dividing the bush.

Planting chrysanthemums and caring for them in the Urals

The main problem that flower growers in the Ural region face when growing perennial chrysanthemums is a fairly short time. Flowers simply do not have time to gain enough strength to fully bloom.

There are also difficulties associated with frosty winters: freezing of bushes during wintering in open ground, difficulty in storing large amounts of planting material. To minimize all the risks of growing chrysanthemums in such harsh conditions, gardeners give preference to local varieties, that is, they try to purchase seedlings from local nurseries or from their neighbors.

Important! When choosing planting material for growing chrysanthemums in the Urals, it is imperative to choose early-flowering, zoned, frost-resistant varieties.

Chrysanthemum seedlings are best planted in open ground at the end of April, immediately covering them with film. Preference is given to strong, strong shoots. Weaker ones can be grown at home on a sunny windowsill. Late-flowering varieties can also be grown in this way.

It is also possible to successfully grow chrysanthemums from seeds, since literally from the first day they will grow only in the local climate. At the same time, they develop more successfully than their relatives grown from cuttings or divisions, and actively bloom from the end of summer. Seeds are sown for seedlings in early April, and at the end of May they are transplanted into open ground.

Important! Chrysanthemums grown from seeds should spend the first winter in gentle conditions - in rooms with low temperatures.

Particular attention is paid to covering chrysanthemums for the winter. Tall varieties are cut to 30 centimeters, all leaves and damaged parts are removed. Then the bushes are carefully hilled using peat or sawdust. The hilled bushes are covered with spruce branches and spunbond on top.

Small-flowered, low-growing chrysanthemums are pruned at the root before wintering, also spud and covered with spruce branches and breathable film material. Wooden shields are often used as additional shelter.

Many Ural gardeners do not risk leaving chrysanthemum bushes in open ground for the winter. Before the onset of cold weather, they cut the bushes to the ground, dig them up and, together with a lump of earth, place them in containers or other suitable containers.

Store containers in a basement or cellar, occasionally moistening the soil. In March, the plants are moved to well-lit places, divided, and shoots that are too elongated and of poor quality are discarded.

If there are a lot of chrysanthemums, and this storage method becomes problematic, you can do it differently. The roots of the dug up bushes are freed from the ground and placed in fabric bags, sprinkled with peat. Such bags are stored in the basement or cellar, or in a suspended state. The bags are periodically moistened.

Otherwise, planting and caring for chrysanthemums is no different from growing them in other regions.

Pests and diseases

Pests

Aphids are the most important pest of chrysanthemums. Moreover, on one stem you can often notice colonies of different species of this sap-sucking insect. They are most often located on stems near buds, sepals and the undersides of leaves.

If there are only a small number of insects, they can be washed off with water. If they overpopulate the plant, you have to use chemical insecticides, to which soap is added, or herbal infusions - onions, garlic, tobacco or marigolds.

The chrysanthemum nematode is a thread-like variety of mealyworm. The pest is practically invisible to the naked eye, but its presence is determined by white spots that darken over time to brown. When affected by this pest, leaves curl, dry out and fall off. If measures are not taken in time, underdeveloped, ugly flowers will form.

Nematodes usually come from precipitation or dew, as well as from contaminated soil or neighboring plants. Since the nematode overwinters in the stems remaining above the ground, it is advisable to spray the plants with a phosphamide solution in spring and autumn.

Important! Infected plants are removed and burned, and the soil is treated with formaldehyde.

The meadow bug is also a sap-sucking insect, signs of attack of which are the appearance of whitish spots on the leaves, the formation of ugly buds and flowers. It also overwinters in the remains of stems, therefore, as in the previous case, treatment with phosphamide is necessary (10 grams dissolved in 10 liters of water). In the warm season, plants are treated with the same means as when fighting aphids.

Important! It is best to treat chrysanthemums against the meadow bug in the early morning hours or in cloudy weather, when the insects are inactive.

Thrips are sap-sucking insects. When attacked by thrips, the leaves become covered with whitish or yellowish spots and become deformed. The inflorescences also lose their decorative effect. The drugs Actellik and Bi-3, as well as onion and garlic infusions, have proven themselves well in the fight against thrips.

The larvae of the cockchafer eat the roots of chrysanthemums, causing the death of the bush. To combat it, use the drug Bazudin or water chrysanthemums weekly with a 5-day infusion of onion peels (up to a third of the bucket volume is tightly filled with peels and filled with water).

Slobbering pennies - usually affects greenhouse chrysanthemums. Insecticides such as Fitoferma or infusions of onion or garlic are used against it.

Important! Proper care of chrysanthemums and timely watering and fertilizing increase the resistance of chrysanthemums to pest attacks.

Diseases

Powdery mildew usually affects plants in hot weather accompanied by heavy dew. Lack of calcium and nitrogen reduces the resistance of chrysanthemums to disease. In some cases, low resistance to fungal diseases in chrysanthemums is associated with the characteristics of the variety.

To prevent the disease, you should carefully maintain the distance between plantings so that they are well ventilated. Also, as a preventive measure, they are sprayed with copper-containing preparations with the addition of detergents. Affected parts of plants are removed and burned.

Gray mold is also a fungal disease that manifests itself as gray-brown spots appearing on the above-ground parts of flowers. The main causes of gray rot are excess moisture, poor ventilation, excess nitrogen, and increased soil acidity.

As a preventive measure, once every two weeks, plantings are sprayed with solutions of copper-containing preparations. When a disease is detected, all affected parts, and in advanced cases, entire plants are destroyed.

Important! Diseases are often transmitted through contaminated garden tools.

Root cancer manifests itself as growths in the lower part of the stems and on the root collar. Usually spreads through soil. Sick plants are removed from the flower garden and destroyed. It is useless to fight root cancer, since at the moment there are no countermeasures. The soil where the affected plants grew is treated with formaldehyde.

Leaf rust appears as yellowish-greenish spots on the upper side of the leaves. On their lower part there are convex pustules. In general, the picture of the disease resembles a burn. The leaves around the spots gradually turn yellow, curl, and die. As with most fungal diseases, conditions favorable for the development of rust are high humidity and warmth. For treatment, plants are treated with copper-containing preparations.

Septoria (leaf spot) appears as brown-black spots, small at the beginning, then merging into one, almost completely covering the leaf. The disease spreads from the lower leaves to the upper ones. Diseased leaves first turn yellow, then dry out and fall off.

Important! The pathogen retains its viability on fallen or cut parts.

When treating chrysanthemums for septoria, all damaged and fallen leaves are removed and burned. During feeding, increase the amount of potassium and phosphorus. Whole plants are sprayed with copper-containing preparations with the addition of soap.

Where to buy planting material

It is best to buy cuttings, divisions or seedlings of chrysanthemums in specialized local nurseries. These will be healthy plants that are intended to be grown in this particular area.

An excellent option is to buy planting material from neighbors in their summer cottage. In this case, you are not buying a pig in a poke, and the growing conditions are almost the same.

Buying chrysanthemums for growing in flower shops is not the best option. If the store has a very large assortment of products, there is a high probability that the plants are not properly cared for. You may also come across a variety that cannot survive the winter.

The same risks will occur when purchasing seedlings or cuttings in markets, from unfamiliar sellers. It is not a fact that the purchased planting material will correspond to the name that the seller gives it. It is also quite possible to purchase a seedling infected with diseases or pests.

When ordering planting material through online stores, you need to choose only those varieties of chrysanthemums that will be adapted to cultivation and full flowering in a given region.

Final part

The correct choice of variety ensures that perennial garden chrysanthemum will grow successfully in almost all climatic conditions of our country. Planting in a suitable place at the required time and careful care will pay off with the lush, long flowering of the autumn queen of the garden.

Chrysanthemum is a genus belonging to the Astrov family. The genus includes about 30 species, the homeland of which in most cases is the temperate zone of Asia. The Greek meaning of the word "chrysanthemum" is a sunny flower.

General information

Depending on the type of chrysanthemums, they can differ noticeably. The stems of some plants are covered with down, and some are bare. The leaves have different shapes, but almost all are mostly alternate and simple, green in color.

In gardening, in most cases, the Chinese chrysanthemum is used, which is often modified by hybridization to develop new varieties.

There is no established classification of chrysanthemums, but they can be divided according to a large number of characteristics: flower size, inflorescence shape, flowering time and life expectancy, growing in the garden or indoors.

Chrysanthemum varieties with photos and names

Chrysanthemum grandiflora The flowers of these plants are very large, the peduncles exceed a meter in height. The most common varieties: Anastasia Green , Zembla Lilac And Tom Pierce .

Usually this species cannot be left in the garden for the winter, but recently varieties have been developed that are no longer afraid of our cold weather.

Chrysanthemum medium-flowered the flowers are slightly smaller than those of the previous species, and the bushes are lower. Can be grown as a potted plant to decorate terraces or balconies.

We usually have varieties: Splashes of champagne , The Golden Fleece , pink daisy .

Chrysanthemum parviflora or Korean This species is a perennial that can withstand winter cold. The flowers are correspondingly not large in comparison with the two above-mentioned species, but the bushes are quite tall.

The foliage is shaped like oak. Flowering occurs in autumn and continues until cold weather. Popular varieties: Etna , Slavyanochka , Multiflora .

The type of inflorescence is distinguished non-double , terry And anemone-shaped varieties. Terry flowers, in turn, have a separate classification based on the shape of the flower.

According to the flowering time, varieties are divided into early flowering , medium flowering And late .

Annual varieties are chrysanthemum keeled , field or sowing , and coronal .

Almost all other varieties are perennials that grow in herbaceous or bushy form.

Perennial chrysanthemums planting and care

Planting and caring for chrysanthemums is quite simple and comes down to a few rules. Young plants that produce leaves should be pinched when eight leaves appear on them - this will help the bushes branch better.

The side stems also need pinching. But if you are growing a large-flowered chrysanthemum, then the side shoots need to be completely cut off, retaining only a couple of the strongest ones. Cut stems can be easily rooted. If you have a tall variety, then take care of the support for the escape.

Watering chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums require heavy watering. If there is a lack of liquid, their shoots harden, and the flowers do not look so beautiful. Water carefully so that water does not drip onto the foliage.

When watering, you need to loosen the soil and pull out weeds, but these procedures can be avoided if you cover the area with mulch after planting.

Fertilizers for chrysanthemums

Another important point in caring for chrysanthemums is fertilizer. During the period of active growth, you need to make at least three fertilizers, alternating mineral and organic fertilizers.

Among the minerals, it is worth noting nitrogen, which help to better grow leaves, and phosphorus-potassium, thanks to which the formation of buds will increase. You need to use liquid fertilizers, which are poured under the roots a day after watering.

Among the organics, we will highlight mullein and bird droppings, but do not overdo it when using them so as not to destroy the plants.

Transplanting chrysanthemums and dividing the bush

When growing a chrysanthemum in one place for more than 3 years, it begins to suffer and this is reflected in the flowering process and the health of the plant.

All three-year-old plants need replanting, along with which the bush is divided. The flower must be carefully dug up, cleared of soil and the plants must be cut into several parts so that each has a part of the rhizome. Next, these divisions are simply planted in a lighted place.

With the arrival of autumn, you need to fertilize chrysanthemums with potassium-phosphorus fertilizer - this will help them better withstand the cold.

How to preserve chrysanthemums in winter

With the arrival of frost, you need to cut off the top of the bushes, leaving about 10 cm above the ground. Next, the bushes need to be hilled up and the entire area mulched with a thick layer of dry foliage.

The cover should be warm but breathable, otherwise the flowers may sweat under the mulch. Tall varieties with large flowers cannot be left in the garden for the winter, because they cannot tolerate our cold weather.

To preserve them until spring, you can remove the mother bushes from the soil and, together with the soil on the roots, place them in a lighted and cool place with a temperature of about 5ºC and high humidity. Sometimes you need to moisten the soil on the roots so that it is a little damp.

Also, these bushes can be left for the winter right in the cellar, the main thing is that the temperature does not drop below zero.

Chrysanthemum indoor care at home

If you want to grow chrysanthemum indoors, then you won’t have to work hard.

The main thing is to place it in a place with strong diffused light, water it a lot and spray the flower from time to time to increase humidity. Replant every year, but do not rush to replant the flower after purchase - it needs time to acclimatize in a new place.

Fertilizers should be applied the same as for garden chrysanthemums - nitrogen fertilizers during the growth of green mass, and potassium-phosphorus fertilizers during budding.

Chrysanthemums from seeds: planting and care

The simplest ways to propagate chrysanthemums are cuttings and dividing the bush, but it is also possible to grow flowers from seeds.

To propagate chrysanthemums by seeds, you need to dig holes about 20 cm apart from one another in May, when it becomes quite warm. They are well moistened and a pair of seeds are placed in each. Next, the seeds are covered and the area is covered with oilcloth.

With the emergence of seedlings, the oilcloth is removed, and the soil is slightly loosened and the emerging weeds are removed. After 10 days, young plants are fertilized with “Ideal” or “Rainbow” fertilizer of a very low concentration. When they reach 10 cm in height, the sprouts can be thinned out, leaving the strongest ones. Other seedlings can be transplanted.

Soil for chrysanthemums

To grow chrysanthemum seedlings, you need to prepare a substrate from greenhouse soil, humus and peat in the same ratio. You can buy such soil, or you can make it yourself, but in this case it will need to be disinfected by heating it to a high temperature.

Place broken brick drainage into the planting container, fill it with soil and place the seeds on top. If you have annual varieties, then their seeds are covered with a thin layer of soil, no more than half a centimeter, and if they are perennial, then they are simply pressed a little into the soil.

Chrysanthemum in a pot home care

With the emergence of seedlings, place the container with the plants in the brightest place in the house and remove the glass for a short time every day, increasing the hardening time daily. With the formation of a pair of true leaves, the seedlings dive into separate containers with the same substrate as before.

Individuals that are too weak are pulled out. After diving, the plants are treated with an epin solution, which will help them quickly get used to the new pot.

Picked chrysanthemums are kept at a temperature of about 17ºC. They are watered when the need arises, and once every 15 days they are fertilized with complex fertilizing. If the daylight hours are too short, then you need to extend it with the help of phytolamps. Don't be alarmed if the seedlings grow slowly - this is normal.

Planting chrysanthemums

Seedlings should be planted when the threat of frost has completely passed, that is, at the end of spring. You can also plant in the fall, but do not delay so that there are at least 15 days left before the onset of frost.

The planting site should be very well lit and not blown by the wind, so that the chrysanthemum does not suffer from drafts. It is also impossible for the site to be located in a lowland, since in this case the rhizome can easily rot.

Chrysanthemums need slightly acidic soil or neutral acidity. If your soil is too sandy or clayey, then you need to feed it with organic matter. At the same time, remember that chrysanthemums respond better to humus than to manure.

To plant chrysanthemums you need to wait for a gloomy day. The seedlings are planted in a trench, approximately 40 cm apart. Planted plants should be watered with diluted rootstock (1g/1l).

After these procedures, the chrysanthemum needs to pinch off the growth point. Next, the plants are covered with something like lutrasil until they take root.

Propagation of chrysanthemums by cuttings

You can also use cuttings for propagation. When the temperature reaches around 22ºC, you need to cut off the cuttings (you can only use those shoots that come from the rhizome; you can’t propagate the flower from the side) just above the bud.

The cuttings should not be large - approximately 7 cm. The cuttings are treated with a means to stimulate root growth and placed at an angle of 45 degrees in soil covered with a couple of centimeters of sand.

Rooting should take place in a well-lit place, the soil should be moistened, and the temperature should be kept around 17ºC and after 15-20 days the plants will take root. Wait a little longer and you will be able to plant the plants in your garden plot.

Diseases and pests

Chrysanthemums do not get sick very often, but when large weeds appear and care rules are not followed, various diseases can appear.

Fungal diseases are:

• Verticillium wilt – the fungus infects the rhizome of the plant, which is why the leaves begin to turn yellow and the shoot withers and dies.
• Powdery mildew – forms a white coating on the foliage and flowers of chrysanthemums.
• Rust – covers all plants with brown spots, the foliage turns yellow as a result of the damage, and the shoot becomes thinner.
• Gray rot – forms spots on the leaves, which over time become covered with down and spread over the entire plant.

There are also cases of viral diseases.

Chrysanthemum (from the Greek chrysos (gold) and anthos (flower) – golden flower) is a true traveler. From China, where it was grown before our era, it arrived in Japan, where it became a universal favorite, then went to Europe (XVII century), and finally visited Russia (XIX century). Japan loved this beauty so much that they made it the state emblem. It was embroidered only on the clothes of the emperor and his family, minted on coins, and the highest order was named after her. And there were many uses for it - from eating leaves and flowers (even in our time desserts are made from them), to treating a number of diseases - from cardiovascular to (!) alcoholism. One cannot fail to note the Chrysanthemum Festival, traditionally held in the land of the sun - everyone is supposed to thoughtfully study the beautiful flower, while reflecting on the journey of life.

Appearance of the plant

There are shrub chrysanthemums, there are also herbaceous ones, there are annual and perennial ones, the flowers are both small and large, representing a basket, inside of which there are yellow tubular flowers in the center, and reed flowers on the periphery - so they are painted in a hundred different shades. The edges are arranged in one row (reminiscent of a chamomile) or several, forming a spherical shape.

Watering mode

Chrysanthemum loves water, water it a lot, 2 times a week, but the flower will withstand a short drought. We water at the root. Homemade chrysanthemums will suffer from dry air in the apartment - place a container of water nearby, or buy an air humidifier.

Lighting requirements

Do not forget that the golden flower blooms profusely in short daylight hours. An open, sunny place is the best option for planting in the garden; a well-lit windowsill is ideal for planting at home. But at a time when the sun is seriously baking, it is better to shade your pet. If the home flower is in bright sun, the flowering will not last long.

Temperature

The golden flower is thermophilic, but easily tolerates the Ural climate and overwinters in the garden in open ground. Indoor flowers do not react well to heat, so create a pleasant cool environment for them and be sure to have a lot of fresh air.

Fertilizer, top dressing

At the stage of active growth, the golden flower is fed with nitrogen, then during budding it needs phosphorus and potassium. If you have sandy soil, don’t despair - add peat and humus when you dig up the ground for planting. For home chrysanthemums, purchase special flower soil.

Chrysanthemum propagation

The golden flower is propagated by seeds, cuttings and dividing the bush.

• Growing from seeds

Chrysanthemums are easy to grow from seeds, but this is usually not done to avoid disappointment: the flower grown in this way will not retain all the characteristics of the original mother plant. This is also how breeders develop new varieties.

• Cuttings

Cuttings are the easiest way to propagate a beautiful pet. For the sake of experiment, you can simply stick a chrysanthemum stem into the ground and water it - you will be surprised how easily and quickly it will take root. But to make sure everything works out, here is the experience of gardeners. First, prepare the mother plant (from which the cuttings will be taken). To do this, before frost, the bush is cut to the ground, after a few days it is dug up, transplanted into a suitable container, covered with earth and sent for the winter in a cool (from +6 to +8) basement or cellar.

The soil must be moistened periodically to prevent it from drying out. In February, take the plant into a warm place and start watering it well; in one and a half to two weeks the first shoots will appear. When the branches grow 10-12 cm, they are pinched off, the lower leaves are torn off, and two or three pairs with the top are left. For better rooting, they are treated with a root growth stimulator (but there is no particular need for this). The cuttings are rooted in pre-soaked peat (or a mixture of soil and peat) and placed in a warm, well-lit place. Before fresh sprouts appear, create a greenhouse effect for your kids - using plastic film or immediately placing them in a greenhouse. Don't forget to ventilate a couple of times a day.

• Dividing the bush

The bush is divided either in early summer or in the fall, in September. When the chrysanthemum fades, cut off the entire above-ground part of the plant, leaving 5-10 cm of branches. Then reduce watering, but do not dig up the root system for another couple of weeks, the roots should gain strength. After this, dig up and divide the bush into several strong fragments. If you have a healthy, strong bush at the age of two or three years, it will produce 5-6 cuttings with roots. They are planted immediately in open ground, in a previously well-soaked hole, adding humus and peat if necessary. When planting in the fall, take care to keep the young, immature bushes warm.

Chrysanthemum blooms for a very long time - from the beginning of summer until the first cold weather. There are several classifications of the golden flower, including botanical and horticultural. They are distinguished by the shape and size of the inflorescence and petal, by their doubleness and color; more sophisticated gardeners find many more, in their opinion, significant details. In order not to cause controversy and accusations, we will not cite any of them. Let’s just say that the chrysanthemum can rightfully boast of a variety of varieties. There are more than 140 types of golden flowers, thousands of varieties, and in the Ural climate, mainly the Korean Chrysanthemum is grown, mainly for its frost resistance.

Korean chrysanthemum, in turn, is represented by hundreds of varieties, so in the Urals we also have the opportunity to grow beautiful flowers of various colors and shapes in our gardens.

Chrysanthemums are pinched to form a bush and regulate the size of the flower. Of course, large or small flowers depend on the variety, but if large-flowered chrysanthemums do not form a bush, the flowers will be smaller. Thus, on one branch in the axils of the leaves, additional shoots develop, on which flowers, in turn, form. If you don’t pinch them in time, both the main flower and the additional ones will become smaller. Conversely, the upper part of the stem is removed to form side shoots so that the bush is lush.

Wintering chrysanthemums

Before the onset of frost, faded chrysanthemums are cut off almost to the root. Depending on the variety, chrysanthemums overwinter in open ground, in greenhouses, and in basements (cellars). If your golden flower overwinters in open ground, insulate it with spruce branches or leave stumps when trimming 10-12 cm long for better snow retention.

FAQ

• Why don't chrysanthemums bloom?

Perhaps the variety does not match the growing conditions. Thus, greenhouse and domestic varieties simply do not have time to bloom in open ground. The second option is damage by diseases or insect pests. Carefully inspect the plant and take appropriate measures.

• How to feed chrysanthemums?

At the initial stage with nitrogen, then during budding, phosphorus and potassium are needed. When digging the ground for planting, add humus and peat.

Diseases and pests of chrysanthemums

Fungal diseases, the cause is excess nitrogen or increased acidity, poor ventilation. For example, septoria. Yellow spots appear on the leaves, which turn brown over time. It is necessary to cut off all damaged leaves (maybe even with branches) and treat the remaining bush with fungicides. The same must be done if the plant is affected by rust. At the same time, pale spots appear on the leaves, and powdery yellow spots appear on the reverse side. Powdery mildew is also treated - it covers the leaves with an ash-gray coating.

Viral infections can also affect a golden flower. The most common is mosaic. At the same time, the plants look weak, stunted, the leaves turn yellow, the flowers become smaller. There’s nothing you can do about it; unfortunately, you’ll have to get rid of the plant.

Of the insect pests, the most common “guests” of chrysanthemums are the leaf nematode, which cannot be seen with the naked eye. When a plant is infected by this worm, the leaves turn brown, curl, and fall off. First the lower ones, then the buds and the upper young leaves, which may even die without opening. In this case, it is necessary to destroy the entire plant, and at the initial stage it can be saved by treating it with insecticides.

• Spider mites

Spider mites entangle leaves with webs from below. The leaves turn pale, dry out and fall off. These insect pests appear in dry, hot weather. Here they use folk remedies (infusion of onion, garlic, yarrow) and are also treated with chemicals. “Medicines” need to be changed because this type of pest adapts to chemicals.

• Field bug

The field bug infects (like most insects) the aboveground part of the golden flower. The buds do not open, the leaves curl. Try to get rid of weeds in time to prevent their appearance. Treat with insecticides.

Aphids found on chrysanthemums are dark, almost black in color. That's what it's called: brown chrysanthemum aphid. Lives in a flower, without damaging it, but making the inflorescence look sloppy. To get rid of it, spray with insecticide.

• If you notice small puddles of foam on the leaves, no one spat on your pet, it’s a slobbering pennice. Overwintered larvae shelter in this way and feed on plant sap. Because of this, the inflorescences suffer. Treat with insecticide.
• The underground part of the chrysanthemum can be eaten by the larvae of the cockchafer.

Pests are mainly controlled with insecticides. Mulching and timely weeding are used as preventive methods of insect control.

Video on caring for chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemum is an unpretentious, very diverse, bright, beautiful flower that even a beginner can grow. Propagating a golden flower is an easy and unburdensome task, and the result will 100 percent satisfy your expectations. Depending on the variety, chrysanthemum can be grown at home, in a greenhouse, or in open ground. Correct and timely pinching will help to form a beautiful lush bush, and attention and timely getting rid of diseases and pests will ensure the bush blooms abundantly and you are in a great mood.

Chrysanthemums ( lat. Chrysanthemum)- a genus of annual and perennial herbaceous plants of the family Asteraceae, or Compositae. The plants are close to the genera Yarrow and Tansy, where many species of chrysanthemums often move.

The chrysanthemum is native to the countries of the temperate and northern zones of the Earth, but the largest number of plants still grow in Asia, Europe and Africa.

The name of the genus comes from the Greek. “χρῡσανθής” (golden-flowered), formed from two words “chrysos” (gold) and “anthemis” (flower), and is explained by the fact that the plants are characterized by the yellow color of the inflorescence.

Chrysanthemums grow mainly in the form of branched subshrubs, less often - in the form of herbaceous plants. The height of the bushes is from 50 cm to 1.5 m. The leaves are arranged in an alternate order, simple, whole, jagged, notched or dissected, various in size and shape, pubescent or not, mostly light green. The flowers are small, collected in a basket, in some species large, consisting, as a rule, of central tubular yellow flowers and ligulate marginal flowers, variously colored and usually arranged in a single row. In many hybrid varieties they are arranged in multi-rows and form a so-called “double” inflorescence. Shoots – bare/ or pubescent. Fruit - achene

The culture of decorative garden chrysanthemums has a thousand-year history. In China, where most chrysanthemums come from, garden forms began to be bred as early as 551 BC. e. Chrysanthemums were then brought to Japan, where they became the national flower. The plants came to Europe in the 17th century, and to Russia in the mid-19th century.

Some types of chrysanthemums can be successfully grown in the open air in low-income countries, others only in greenhouses, but all of them are valued by gardeners for the brightness of their colors, long-lasting flowering, and ease of propagation.

Many types of chrysanthemum have long been used in ornamental gardening. In China, India, Korea and other Asian countries, stems, leaves and inflorescences are eaten as vegetables. Chrysanthemums are widely used in Chinese medicine.

The chrysanthemum is traditionally depicted on coins and the state emblem of Japan; one of the country's highest awards is the Order of the Chrysanthemum. Also, the 16-petalled yellow chrysanthemum is depicted on the imperial seal of Japan, officially adopted in 1889.

The Chrysanthemum Festival in the Land of the Sun is a special ritual: while performing it, one must admire every shade of the inflorescences, while one must think deeply about the path traveled and the meaning of life.

Ancient Japanese poets praised the chrysanthemum in their poems. The “golden flower” did not go unnoticed by Russian poets. For almost a hundred years, the old sad romance by Nikolai Kharito “The chrysanthemums in the garden have long since faded…” (1910) has been heard.

Often only compact chrysanthemums are available for sale, but keep in mind that these are most likely plants treated with special growth-inhibiting substances, so cuttings from them can grow into much larger plants.

The Chrysanthemum genus includes about 150 species of annual plants, which, based on the structure of the flower, are divided into small-flowered and large-flowered.

Some aromatic plants belong to the genus Chrysanthemum, such as "St. Peter's grass" (Chrysanthemum balsamita), whose leaves have a minty odor, or "arquebus" (Chrysanthemum vulgare var. crispum) with an intense spicy aroma, used in many bitters and herbal liqueurs.

For indoor floriculture, heat-loving small-flowered and low-growing varieties are selected. The choice of varieties is very large. Since chrysanthemums were previously highly valued for their decorative properties, long-term selection work was carried out, thanks to which the color of chrysanthemum flowers, depending on the variety, began to vary greatly, and the number of species, groups and varieties themselves increased significantly.

Types of chrysanthemum

Chrysanthemum crowned , or vegetable chrysanthemum , or salad chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum coronarium) . Homeland - North America. Introduced and bred in many varieties and forms.

The stem is erect, simple or slightly branched in the upper half, glabrous, 25-70 cm high. The root is short, taproot. Basal leaves die quickly. The medium leaves are up to 8-10 cm long, sessile, oblong or oblong-obovate in outline. The upper leaves are smaller and less dissected. Baskets are single or 2-8 in number on leafy lateral branches, usually not forming a shield. The corollas of reed flowers are yellow, of different shades. The achene is 2.8-4 mm long and 2-3.5 mm wide.

The leaves and young shoots resemble celery in taste and are used as food. Young inflorescences are also of nutritional value. Used as an ornamental plant.

. This plant grows in the Alpine zones of European mountain systems. Alpine chrysanthemum is a low-growing perennial plant up to 10-15 cm. The leaves are pinnately dissected and collected in a basal rosette. Their upper side is dark green, the lower side is gray-green. Erect, non-branching stems bear single baskets with a diameter of 2-4 cm. Flowering in July-August.

Alpine chrysanthemum with silvery-gray leaves, covered in summer with delicate inflorescences similar to those of daisies, is ideal for alpine slides. One of the hardy varieties with single or double baskets is grown successfully in borders, beds or pots.

Chrysanthemum keeled , or "tricolor daisy" (Chrysanthemum carinatum) . Synonym: Glebionis carinata. The plant's homeland is North-West Africa. This type of chrysanthemum is an annual, densely branched, erect, 20-70 cm tall, almost hairless plant with a fleshy stem. The leaves are slightly fleshy, twice pinnately divided, on petioles. Inflorescences are baskets, often simple, less often semi-double or double, fragrant, rather large, 5-7 cm in diameter, solitary or collected in groups of 2-10 on leafy lateral branches, do not form a complex corymbose inflorescence, bloom at different times. Reed flowers are white, yellow with a whitish or reddish edge, less often single-colored, yellow or white; tubular - dark red. Blooms profusely from late June to September.

Various dwarf or relatively low (from 30 to 60 cm) varieties have been bred from the keeled chrysanthemum.

Bush chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum frutescens) . Synonym: Argyranthemum frutescens . Homeland - Canary Islands. Evergreen shrub up to 1 m tall. The shoots are erect, branched, thin, woody at the base. Leaves are divided many times. Stipules with irregular lobes. Inflorescences are baskets, often simple, less often semi-double or double, fragrant, rather large, 5 cm in diameter, solitary or collected in groups of 2-10 on leafy lateral branches. Tubular flowers are yellow, ligulate flowers are white, yellow or pink.

Grows well in mild climates and in open ground; its white baskets with a yellow center, similar to the classic meadow daisy, bloom alternately almost all year round. In areas with cold climates, it can be grown in containers, removed for the winter.

Chrysanthemum mulberry , or Chinese chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum x morifolium) - chrysanthemum of hybrid origin. A perennial low-growing plant 30-130 cm tall, the shoots are strong, erect or erect, becoming woody at the base with age. The leaves are slightly fleshy, lanceolate, ovate-lobed or oval, up to 7 cm long, and fragrant. The lobes are entire, coarsely toothed, their lower surface is covered with gray felt pubescence. Inflorescences are baskets, simple, semi-double or double, fragrant, rather large, 5-7 cm in diameter, solitary or collected in groups of 2-10 on leafy lateral branches. The reeds, called petals, are longer than the disk and vary in color. The inner (tubular) flowers are yellow.

- types of chrysanthemums of hybrid origin. Varieties of this species differ in flowering time, bush height, structure and size of inflorescences, color of reed and tubular flowers. These species grow well in open ground.

Flowers, depending on the variety, reach sizes up to 15 cm or more in diameter. The height of the bushes is from 30 cm to 1 m.

Varieties of hybrid Korean chrysanthemums are more resistant to adverse environmental factors, pests and pathogens. Their distinctive feature is their ability to bloom abundantly and for a long time, and are highly decorative.

Classification of Korean chrysanthemums:

By inflorescence size:
— small-flowered - inflorescences up to 10 cm in diameter;

- large-flowered - inflorescences over 10 cm in diameter.

By type of inflorescence:
- single-row and double-row - their marginal reed flowers are located in 1-2 rows, numerous tubular flowers are in the center

- semi-double - with three or more rows of marginal reed flowers;

— anemone-shaped - with one or several rows of marginal reed flowers;

- pompons - inflorescences 2-3 cm in diameter, of numerous reed flowers;

- double - inflorescences of numerous reed flowers of different shapes and sizes, in the center there is a small number of tubular ones.

By height they are distinguished:
- low-growing (border) - plant height up to 30 cm. Low-growing chrysanthemums are characterized by early flowering, a dense spherical bush, and few root shoots.

- medium-sized - plant height from 30 to 50 cm. Among the chrysanthemums of this group there are plants of completely different colors with non-double, semi-double and double inflorescences. All plants belonging to the medium-sized group can be used in group plantings, in flower beds or uniform clumps. Unlike border chrysanthemums, many varieties from this group are used not only for decorative plantings, but also for cutting.

- tall - plant height from 50 cm to 1 m. Plants of this group are characterized by a large, well-developed bush, the latest flowering and larger inflorescence size.

Popular varieties of Korean chrysanthemum

‘Alyonushka’– pink chrysanthemums with simple “daisy” inflorescences. Plant height – up to 50 cm.
'Altgold'– dark yellow chrysanthemums with inflorescences with a diameter of about 5 cm. Plant height – up to 60 cm.
'Snow White'– a plant up to 70 cm high. Terry white chrysanthemum, flower up to 7 cm in diameter. Blooms in autumn.
'Bacon'– red chrysanthemum up to 80 cm high. Double inflorescences reach 6 cm in diameter. Blooms in October.
‘Evening Lights’– spectacular red chrysanthemums with a yellow ring around the center of the inflorescence. The inflorescences are simple, chamomile-shaped.
'Hebe'– ‘chamomile’ chrysanthemum with a single-row inflorescence up to 6 cm in diameter.
‘Malchish-Kibalchish’– low-growing chrysanthemum, less than 30 cm high. The inflorescences are pink, simple in shape. Blooms abundantly in August. The diameter of the inflorescences is up to 7 cm.
‘Orange Sunset’– double orange chrysanthemum with inflorescences up to 10 cm in diameter. Plant up to 75 cm in height.
'First snow'– compact white chrysanthemums up to 35 cm high. Semi-double inflorescences up to 5 cm in diameter. Blooms for a month in August-September.
‘Umka’– pompom chrysanthemum with inflorescences up to 7 cm in diameter. Plant height – 80-100 cm. The color of the flowers of the ‘Umka’ chrysanthemum varies from snow-white to pinkish.

- grown mainly indoors, bloom in late autumn or early winter, and are used for cutting.

Popular varieties:

'Aurora'. The inflorescences are orange, 8-10 cm in diameter, flat in shape. Plant height is 70-80 cm. The leaves are dark green, medium in size. Flowering time is September - October.
‘Altgold’. The inflorescences are densely double, golden-yellow, 5-7 cm in diameter, flat in shape. Plant height is 45-60 cm. The leaves are dark green and small. Flowering period: end of August - October.

‘Wally Roof’. The inflorescences are double, pink-lilac, flat-shaped, 6-8 cm in diameter. Flowering period is the second half of September - October. ‘Primzvara’ Inflorescences are light pink, 7-10 cm in diameter, hemispherical in shape. Plant height is 70-90 cm. The leaves are dark green, medium. Flowering period: September - October.
'Snow Elf'. The inflorescences are pure white, densely double, pompom. with a diameter of 5-7 cm. Plant height - 50-70 cm. Flowering period - September - October.

These species include all the shades characteristic of chrysanthemums. There are also two-color varieties. Depending on the variety and age, one bush can have from several dozen to several hundred inflorescences.

– a very tall (up to one and a half meters tall) beautifully flowering shrub. Inflorescences-umbrellas, reed flowers are white, tubular flowers are bright yellow. This type of chrysanthemum blooms in September. This is a perennial chrysanthemum.

- an annual chrysanthemum with an erect stem up to 60 cm high and oblong whole leaves without petioles. There are varieties with pinnately lobed leaves. The inflorescences are usually painted in bright yellow tones. Blooms from June to September.

- an annual low-growing shrub with numerous erect stems up to 23 cm high. The shape of the fleshy leaves can be different. The inflorescences are bright yellow in color and reach 3 cm in diameter. It has abundant and long-lasting flowering.

Lighting. Chrysanthemums prefer bright, diffused light; plants are shaded from direct midday sun. Morning and evening sunlight can be beneficial for plants.
A suitable place for growing chrysanthemums is near windows facing western and eastern directions. Plants near southern windows grow well and bloom profusely. But in this case, the plants are provided with shading from midday sunlight. Plants near north-facing windows may not have enough light for normal growing season.

Temperature. It is recommended to keep plants outdoors in summer, in a place protected from midday sunlight. You can keep plants there until frost. Indoors, it is advisable to give the plants a cool place, about 15°C, with access to fresh air. Too warm and stuffy conditions lead to rapid growth and poor flowering.

Watering. During the active growing season, water the plants abundantly, with soft, settled water, as the top layer of the substrate dries. It is impossible to allow the earthen coma to dry out - this leads to the falling of leaves and buds. If the room is kept cool, watering should be done carefully to prevent the earthen clod from becoming waterlogged. After flowering, the plant is pruned and kept in a cool winter, watered, only slightly wetting the soil.

Spraying. Plants respond well to spraying in the morning and evening with soft, settled water during the active growing season.

Fertilizer. Chrysanthemums are fertilized weekly, during the active growing season, with complex flower fertilizer.

Features of cultivation. Chrysanthemum is a short-day plant that responds well to lower night temperatures. Chrysanthemums bloom abundantly and can last from late summer to late autumn. To make the chrysanthemum bush more compact, it is recommended to pinch it to increase bushiness due to the growth of side shoots. If you want to get larger flowers, you can pluck out the buds, leaving only a few on the bush.

Transfer. When the plant fades, it should be cut off close to the ground and placed in a cool room with a temperature of about 3-5°C. In March, the plants are transplanted and placed in a bright, cool (15-18°C) room. The substrate for the plant is nutritious, loose, for example, the following: turf soil (1 hour), humus (1 hour), peat (1 hour), sand (0.2 hour). The bottom of the container intended for the plant provides good drainage.

Feeding after transplantation begins two weeks later. As new shoots grow, you can pinch them to increase bushiness. If pinching is not carried out in time, the plants become very stretched. After the end of spring frosts, it is recommended to expose the pot with the plant to fresh air.

Reproduction. Chrysanthemums are propagated by seeds and cuttings.

Propagation by seeds. For early flowering, seeds are sown in March in common containers. As the seedlings grow, they are planted in pots. The substrate for planting is loose and nutritious.

Reproduction by cuttings. Chrysanthemums are successfully propagated by cuttings. Cuttings are taken from strong young shoots. Cut the cuttings carefully, under the leaf node, with a sharp tool. You can plant in various containers; pots with a diameter of 7-9 cm are suitable. For rooting, take a peat-humus mixture, which is sprinkled on top with a layer of sand about 2 cm thick. You can root in clean sand. In a mini-greenhouse, the cuttings take root within three weeks; as they grow, they are transferred to large containers. Rooted plants are fed weekly with complex flower fertilizer. Grown plants can be planted together in containers and pots. When planting, try to make the intervals between plants equal so that the feeding area of ​​individual plant specimens is approximately equal.

Possible difficulties

The plant is susceptible to fungal diseases (powdery mildew, gray mold, root rot, etc.) that arise due to improper growing conditions. In case of damage by nematodes or viruses, leading to deformation of the stems and discoloration of the leaves, it is better to remove the plant.

The leaves of the plant are faded and limp. This may indicate excess sunlight. This also happens if watering is too limited.

If the room is too warm the plant grows and may shed some leaves and buds.

Damaged

Chrysanthemums can effectively clean indoor air, because... have bactericidal properties .

In Chinese folk medicine, chrysanthemum is used as a medicinal plant: its leaves are prescribed for migraines, and dried flowers are used to improve appetite. In many countries, chrysanthemum flowers and leaves were used to treat eye diseases, malaria, alcoholism, stomach diseases, and to prevent cardiovascular diseases.

In Asian countries, shoots, leaves and especially inflorescences are eaten as vegetables and a delicious dessert. A popular food species in China is the crowned chrysanthemum, known there as "Tonghao".

In recent years, the potted (indoor) culture of chrysanthemums has become widespread. Chrysanthemums decorate the house and garden and give them graceful forms, and in Japan they are given special gardens

The chrysanthemum in the East is considered a sign of supreme power and a symbol of splendor. Her stylized image can be seen on the coat of arms of the Imperial House of Japan. The Japanese revere this flower no less than sakura, because the long-blooming chrysanthemum symbolizes deep feelings, health and longevity.

In the east, it is also believed that if you cover the flowers of a blooming chrysanthemum with a cloth at night, and wipe your face with life-giving dew in the morning, this promises long life and youth. The petals of this flower contain many minerals that a person needs for the normal functioning of the body.

Chrysanthemum petals contain many vitamins, especially vitamin C. The petals also contain essential oil, which increases the body’s defenses and has a beneficial effect on the nervous system.

Place chrysanthemum flowers next to your bed, chew a few petals at night and you will be guaranteed a restful, sound sleep. You can hold a chrysanthemum flower on your forehead before going to bed, then you will fall asleep easier.

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