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What do peppers like when growing? How to grow large peppers - tips for gardeners. Video “10 mistakes in growing sweet peppers”

Bell pepper is rich in various beneficial substances and vitamins necessary for our body. And how many delicious dishes you can cook with it! Therefore, of course, almost everyone who has their own garden grows bell peppers. It is very important to know how to plant and grow it correctly so that the harvest comes out rich.

Soil for pepper

Bell pepper is a heat-loving plant, quite demanding on the soil in which it grows. The planting location should be sunny, open, but protected from the wind.

The soil for peppers needs to be fertile, flavored with humus, warm, light, with good drainage. The soil should be loose, soft; sandy or loamy soils are best in composition. Keep in mind that if fresh organic fertilizers have been added to the ground, planting can only be done in the second year.

Early varieties of pepper ripen well on sandy loam soils. For mid-season and late varieties, chernozem, which has good water permeability and loam, is better suited. Sweet peppers feel uncomfortable on sandy and clayey soils. Any heavy soil negatively affects the amount of harvest obtained; pepper develops slowly and gets sick more often. It does not like pepper and acidic soils, so do not overuse bird droppings and manure.

Two years before planting, it is recommended to fertilize the bed where bell peppers will grow in the future with lime. Pepper is very picky about the amount of nutrients. Thanks to them, the plant grows better and bears fruit more actively. The most necessary elements for the growth of bell peppers are nitrogen and potassium.

Until the formation of small peppercorns, when the plant’s root system is not yet powerful enough, it is necessary to feed it with phosphorus fertilizers in large doses. This fertilizer will accelerate the growth of the root system. The highest need for nitrogen occurs before flowering and further during the formation and ripening of fruits. With a lack of nitrogen, the lower leaves of pepper begin to die. The need for potassium is high during the period of fruit set and until they ripen.

It is good for leaf growth when there is calcium in the soil, which got into it along with organic matter. In such soil, the pepper will grow roots and leaves well, but not to the detriment of the developing fruits. Peppers respond well to the addition of various microelements to the soil - such as boron, manganese, iodine, molybdenum, zinc and others.

An excess of mineral elements in the soil will negatively affect all life processes of pepper. Excess nitrogen (either in organic or mineral form) will stimulate the growth of green mass, but will lead to delays in fruit formation. Excess phosphorus and potassium supplements, on the contrary, can reduce the growth of leaves in young plants, which will ultimately negatively affect the amount of yield. Therefore, when growing bell peppers, it is very important to choose the best ratio of mineral fertilizers and soil fertility in your area. It is much easier to compensate for the lack of nutrients by applying fertilizers than to later get rid of their excess.

Pepper is a rather capricious and demanding crop. However, most gardeners and gardeners have adapted to its requirements regarding soil, watering, and heat, and successfully grow it in their garden plots. The reference books give many recommendations on how to how to prepare the soil for peppers, including for seedlings. Let's take notes on the information.

Soil for pepper seedlings

Pepper is a heat-loving plant, so it is recommended to grow it only as seedlings. Since pepper does not tolerate picking, it is recommended to immediately sow the seeds in separate pots (preferably peat). The diameter of the pots is no more than 10 cm.

Soil for seedlings must consist of the following components:

- Garden soil,
— Humus, which saturates the soil with minerals, increasing its fertility.
— River sand, which is a good leavening agent, and earth.

The components are mixed in a ratio of 1: 2: 1 and ash is added here (for every kilogram of substrate - 1 tablespoon). You can add peat - it provides the soil with the necessary looseness and moisture.

The substrate should be uniform and fine, for which it should be sifted. Must be carried out disinfection measures:

  1. The easiest way to disinfect is to water the soil with potassium permanganate. After the soil has been watered generously, wait until it dries and only then can you plant the seeds.
  2. More complex methods include calcination - treating the soil with high temperatures (on average up to 80 degrees). This can be done by placing the soil in a preheated oven or microwave.
  3. Steaming – you need to steam the soil in a water bath for several hours with the lid tightly closed. This procedure should be performed a month before using the soil. Then the soil microflora will have time to recover by the time of sowing.
  4. Fungicides are also used; they must be dissolved in water and watered abundantly into the soil, thereby destroying various types of fungi that may be in the ground.
  5. And in order to improve the quality of the substrate and saturate the soil with air, it is recommended to add natural soil loosening agents - perlite or vermiculite - these are processed small minerals.

It's simple! For sowing, you can also use a special soil mixture, making it easier for you to carefully preparing soil for pepper seedlings. This soil is sold in garden stores and has a fairly reasonable price.

Pepper seedlings can be grown in greenhouses or at home on a balcony or windowsill. Plant the seeds to a depth of 1.5 cm.

Pepper is a plant very sensitive to lack of moisture, so its seedlings should be watered abundantly, but in moderation. If you overwater the seedlings, a fungus may develop in them and the plant will die. Watering should be done with warm water, as cold water can also cause plants to die or get blackleg.

Soil for planting in greenhouses and open ground

Peppers prefer a warm microclimate, which is why they are most often planted to greenhouses, providing suitable air temperature.

in autumn soil for peppers dig up and saturate with organic fertilizers, for example, compost or manure. Dose of organic fertilizers: 5-6 kg per 1 m2. Over the winter, the fertilizers will rot, the beds will become warm and quite fertile. And this is the ideal soil for growing peppers in a greenhouse.

In the spring, before planting seedlings, the soil is dug up and fertilized again. Now potassium and phosphorus fertilizers are being applied. Dose: 40 g per 1m2. Nitrogen fertilizers are also necessary, their dosage is 30 g per 1 m2. You can prepare fertilizers yourself. To do this, you will need humus (but not fresh manure), a glass of wood ash, a glass of double superphosphate and 25 g of nitrate. This composition is used per 1 square meter of area.

Before planting seedlings, the soil is thoroughly loosened to a depth of about 15 cm, holes are made into which one and a half to two liters of water are poured. Then the pepper is planted there along with the lump of earth in which it grew. The lower leaves should be at soil level. After planting, the plant is compacted by hand and covered with mulch (peat, humus), which prevents the evaporation of moisture from the soil.

Before planting, it is advisable to preheat the air in the greenhouse. The soil temperature must be at least 15 degrees, otherwise the peppers begin to get sick and lose their ability to absorb nutrients. The optimal soil temperature for peppers is 25 degrees.

Greenhouses must be thoroughly ventilated, especially after watering, and do not forget to loosen the soil to a depth of 10 to 3 cm (it is gradually reduced as the plants grow).

2-3 days after planting in a permanent place, it is useful to hill up the seedlings with damp soil, the height of the mound is approximately 3-4 cm. Hilling up will help the young plant to take root better.

Soil for planting peppers in open ground prepared in the same way as for greenhouses. In addition, you should choose the right site for planting. Pepper is afraid of drafts and loves light and warmth. Therefore, the area should be bright and protected from drafts.

At the end of May, when the soil warms up well, the seedlings can be planted in a permanent place. Now she is no longer afraid of illness.

If you use the advice of experts and take care of this extremely healthy vegetable, then a good harvest will not keep you waiting!

Sweet peppers are a member of the nightshade family (along with eggplants and tomatoes). This perennial plant species, the fruits of which are consumed both fresh and processed, is a shrub. Vegetable crops respond well to substances introduced into the soil. Peppers tolerate nitrogen and potassium especially well, but you need to be careful with chlorine - the vegetable does not like it.

What do bell peppers like?

In general, pepper is known as a rather whimsical plant, but you should not be afraid of this and refuse to cultivate the crop. It must be remembered that it does not tolerate excessive watering, as well as a lack of water. Peppers bear fruit well when the weather is warm and sunny. Loosening the soil should be done carefully, since the vegetable crop has a shallow root system.

It should be remembered that a vegetable crop such as pepper loves loamy and fertile soil. The plant does not tolerate heavy soil well because it is acidic. If this is the type of soil on the site, it should be lightened. To do this, use peat or sand, which is added when digging the ground. At the same time, you can add last year's organic mixtures, for example, cow manure or compost.

The composition of organic and mineral fertilizers added to the soil depends on factors such as the age of the seedlings, the type of vegetable, and weather conditions. You should also understand what exactly sweet bell pepper fertilizer is used for. For example, phosphorus supplements are necessary for the growth and development of a plant (before the fruit formation stage begins). During the period of active formation of ovaries, pepper requires potassium. Throughout the entire period, from development and growth to flowering, the vegetable crop needs feeding from calcium and nitrogen.

Did you know?
During prolonged cloudy weather, the amount of potassium fertilizers should be increased by about 1/5. If it is dry and sunny outside, then on the contrary, their number should be reduced by 20%.

Fertilizing in open ground

When the seedlings grow to the required size, they move on to planting them in open ground. Before this, peppers must be thoroughly fertilized. For these purposes, wood ash, potassium sulfate, as well as humus and superphosphates are used. To simplify the task, you can use a ready-made complex fertilizer for sweet peppers, which contains a balanced amount of nutrients. Fortunately, in the 21st century you can easily find such mixtures on the market. After planting seedlings in open ground, fertilizing should be continued at regular intervals until the stage of formation of the first fruits.

In general, the timing of the start of fertilizing pepper depends on factors such as planting time, volume, quantity and composition of the first fertilizers. For example, if you fertilize the soil in the fall, less mineral fertilizers will be required in the spring.

Sweet peppers planted in open ground are traditionally fed once every 3 weeks. Planting of seedlings is carried out when the plant reaches a height of about 15-25 centimeters, as well as when buds are formed. Approximately 2.5 weeks after transplanting the vegetable crop to a permanent place, it blooms. It is during this period that the first feeding is carried out.

To do this, use stale cow manure or a solution of bird droppings diluted in water. If there are no ready-made organic fertilizers, then the peppers are fertilized with a mixture of ammonium nitrate, superphosphate, and potassium dissolved in warm water.

Useful fact

An excellent fertilizer that contains all the necessary macro and microelements is a herbal cocktail. It's very easy to make it yourself. This will require herbs such as dandelion, nettle, plantain, as well as any weeds. The plants are finely chopped and used as top dressing.

Second feeding of pepper

After two weeks, after the first application of nutrients, a second feeding should be carried out. It occurs during the formation of inflorescences, right up to the formation of the first fruits. If mineral products were previously used, organic substances should now be used. For this you can use urea, bird droppings, as well as manure from last year. The ingredients are dissolved in water and infused for a week. Feeding is carried out as follows: five liters of liquid per square meter of area.

How to improve productivity?

We are constantly receiving letters in which amateur gardeners are worried that due to the cold summer this year there will be a poor harvest of potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers, and other vegetables. Last year we published TIPS on this matter. But unfortunately, many did not listen, but some still applied. Here is a report from our reader, we would like to recommend plant growth biostimulants that will help increase the yield by up to 50-70%.

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As mentioned above, peppers need various microelements throughout the entire period of development and growth. These include phosphorus, calcium, magnesium, iodine, zinc, molydbene, manganese and boron. Foliar feeding is an ideal way to introduce nutrients. In other words, the pepper is sprayed with a solution containing the necessary elements.

Fertilizing peppers in greenhouses

It’s a strange fact, but peppers that are grown in a greenhouse, and not in open ground, are fed with useful substances according to a completely different scheme. Thus, organic matter has a positive effect on the amount of future harvest, and minerals are responsible for the height and volume of bushes.

When planting peppers in a greenhouse, you should adhere to the following fertilizer application schedule:


Feeding rules

There are a number of rules that must be followed when organizing feeding for sweet pepper seedlings:

  • This vegetable crop does not tolerate fresh manure very well. The fertilizer from last year is best suited for these purposes.
  • It is forbidden to feed seedlings after the picking procedure; you should wait two weeks.
  • The fertilizer solution should be slightly warmer than room temperature.
  • Fertilizing should be done carefully, avoiding getting on the stems and leaves of the pepper.
  • The best time to fertilize peppers is early morning or evening after sunset.

Types of fertilizers for peppers

Mineral fertilizers for peppers are used only in liquid form. It is customary to dilute the powders in water at room temperature to the required consistency, after which the composition is watered on the soil under the plant, without getting on the stems and leaves. Today you can find various mineral mixtures on the gardening market. Experts and experienced gardeners advise purchasing complex products that have a balanced composition.

As for organic fertilizers, the best option here is last year's manure and bird droppings. This type of fertilizing has a beneficial effect on the amount of the future harvest and its fruiting properties. The soil is fed with fertilizer in accordance with pre-designed schemes, so as not to overfeed the vegetable crop.

Folk remedies for fertilizers from ash and shells


Advice
If you place the fertilizer you are preparing next to pepper seedlings, the hydrogen sulfide released into the air will have a positive effect on the plant, stimulating its development. Before applying the resulting solution, the soil should be thoroughly fluffed.

How to fertilize with yeast

Adding yeast to the soil has a positive effect on the composition of the soil, completely rebuilding its structure. Feeding microorganisms contribute to the rapid growth of seedlings and also increase the yield of vegetable crops.

In order to prepare the dressing, you should mix the following ingredients: 10 grams of dry yeast, a bucket of water, 4 tablespoons of granulated sugar. The resulting solution is concentrated, so before fertilizing the soil it should be diluted with water in a ratio of one to ten.

Experienced gardeners sometimes replace yeast with wheat grains. To do this, they should be filled with water and left in a warm place for a day. During this time, the grains will swell, after which they need to be ground into a paste and mixed with sugar. Before using fertilizers, the mass is also diluted with water in a ratio of one to ten.

Additional fertilization

Sometimes it happens that a vegetable crop requires additional fertilization in addition to the basic feeding scheme and norm. This can happen in cases where the soil is too acidic and the pepper bushes grow very slowly.

Additional feeding is carried out in accordance with the following rules:


Overfeeding the soil can negatively affect the fertility of peppers.

When fertilizing and feeding sweet peppers, you need to understand how this or that substance affects the plant, as well as what consequences an overdose may have:


Conclusion

Pepper is undoubtedly a popular vegetable on the Russian table. It is consumed raw (adding to salads), as well as processed - stewed, pickled. Thanks to its unique taste and beneficial composition, the vegetable has won the love of gardeners.

To summarize, it should be noted that feeding a vegetable crop such as pepper has a great influence on its yield. It is important to fertilize according to the schedule and within the recommended norm, without overfeeding the soil. And remember, a plant that has been properly cared for will definitely thank you with juicy fruits.

Options for feeding peppers

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Sweet peppers are grown less often in the country than cucumbers and tomatoes. Meanwhile, there is no special wisdom in obtaining large yields of this vegetable. And although this is a fairly heat-loving crop, with the right approach, peppers can be successfully grown in the middle zone.

PREPARATION OF PEPPER SEEDS FOR SOWING

The ripening period of peppers from germination to fruit harvesting is: 80-100 days for early varieties, 120-140 days for late varieties, so you can start thinking about seedlings in late February - early March.

Seeds need to be planted 55-60 days before planting seedlings in the ground. If you plant earlier, the plants will stretch out, weaken and take root poorly, which cannot but affect the future harvest.

It is better to prepare the seeds first. For this, 1 tsp. Dissolve potassium permanganate in 1 liter of hot water. Pour 3 tbsp over the seeds for half an hour. l. warm solution and then rinse with warm water. After this, you can also fill them with a heteroauxin solution for 12 hours - take 1 tablet per 1 liter of water. After this, place the seed in a canvas bag and put it in the snow overnight, and keep it in the room during the day. 5-6 days of such hardening are enough. At this time, you need to make sure that the seeds do not dry out, germinate or suffocate. After hardening, dry the seeds thoroughly before planting or sow immediately - whichever is more convenient.

PLANTING PEPPER

It is best to prepare soil for seedlings using peat. If there is no peat, you can take humus. So, to 2 parts of humus (peat) add 1 part of turf soil, 1 part of sawdust. Pre-spill the sawdust with a solution of ammonium nitrate (a glass of nitrate in a bucket of water).

The sawdust should be moistened with this solution for 2 weeks. Then all components must be mixed, add 1 tbsp. n. superphosphate. 2 tbsp. l. ash - and the soil for seedlings is ready. The operation with sawdust is necessary so that the seedlings grow strong and do not experience nitrogen starvation, in which the leaves become pale and the plants themselves become weak.

Seeds can be sown in separate pots or in trays (boxes). In the second option, the distance between the rows should be 3-4 cm. There is no need to plant the seed deeply - 1 cm from the top is enough. Before the emergence of friendly shoots, it is better to cover the crops with plastic wrap.

Once the seeds have sprouted, the boxes should be placed on a cool windowsill for several days. Then you can move it to a warm place where the temperature is kept at 25°. As soon as the first true leaf appears, the peppers should be picked.

CARING FOR PEPPER SEEDLINGS

Every 12 days, peppers should be fed with complex fertilizer, starting from the time the second leaf appears. A total of 3 feedings need to be done. If signs of nitrogen starvation appear, it is best to feed the plants with chicken droppings - 0.5 liters of droppings per bucket of water.

As the plant develops, it needs to be shaped - leave the 2 strongest shoots to simulate the skeleton of the bush, and pinch out the weak branches after 12 leaves appear.

As soon as the plant develops more than 7 leaves and they are sufficiently strong (and this will happen in 50-60 days), the seedlings can be planted in a greenhouse or open ground.

It is worth knowing that peppers are capricious and demanding. They restore the root system poorly, do not like transplants, and take root slowly. Therefore, many gardeners eliminate the picking operation and plant non-picked plants.

Good strong seedlings are considered to be plants 20-25 cm high with 5-10 leaves and a strong stem 3-4 mm thick at the roots.

MAY CONCERNS

In May, it is time to prepare the ground for peppers, if it has not been prepared since the fall. Peppers feel best in garden beds after cucumbers and cabbage. They do not tolerate fresh manure - it is better to take rotted compost and add it to the ground - 1 square meter. m 1 bucket of manure, 50-60 g of superphosphate, 20 g of potassium salt.

Planting in the ground or in a greenhouse should begin when the air temperature reaches 15°. Frosts are destructive for peppers, so plants should not be planted before the end of May.

Peppers love moisture, so they need to be watered well before transplanting.

It is better to choose a cool, cloudy day for planting. Plants should be carefully removed from the boxes, being careful not to disturb the roots. It is optimal to plant peppers in peat cups and plant them in the ground together - then the peppers will get sick less.

The distance between rows should ideally be 50 cm, between plants - 30 cm. Plants should be planted in separate, well-watered holes. You can’t bury peppers when planting them: this will cause them to get sick and dry out. Sprinkle with soil up to the first leaves. But if you plant the peppers very shallowly, the top roots will begin to die, and this should not be allowed.

It is important to plant sweet and bitter peppers as far apart as possible to prevent cross-pollination. Otherwise, sweet peppers will be bitter, and bitter ones will not be pleasantly spicy.

The ground around the plants can be mulched with straw or grass so that the ground retains moisture longer and there are fewer weeds.

After planting, you should especially carefully monitor the moisture of the soil. Peppers really don't like dryness. They need to be watered often and regularly, but not too much.

If you overwater peppers, they may suffer from blossom end rot. If the peppers dry out, especially during the period when the peppers are setting, then the fruits will subsequently have a bitter taste. It is best to water in the morning, pouring the water carefully, at the root.

The water should be warm - cold water causes peppers to stop growing and yields to decrease. In the first days after planting, watering should be frequent. Then you can water it once every 10 days.

You need to loosen the rows more often, a couple of days after watering. These procedures provide air access to the roots. But since the roots of peppers are close to the surface, loosening should be shallow - no deeper than 6 cm.

15 days after planting the plants, they should be fed for the first time with complex mineral fertilizers. To do this, you need to take 1 kg of mullein and mix it with 10 liters of water, in which 30 g of superphosphate are dissolved.

This solution is enough for 1 square. m beds. You can also take chicken manure in the proportion already indicated above.

SUMMER CARE OF PEPPERS

In the summer you need to feed the plants several more times with a mixture of mullein and superphosphate. Apply 0.5 liters of mixture per plant. The next feeding must be done through

2 weeks. Take 2 tbsp per bucket of water. l. nitrophoska and water the plants with this mixture. The main thing is that the solution does not get on the leaves; to do this, it must be carefully poured under the root. Otherwise, burns will appear on the leaves.

If necessary, you can feed the plants a couple more times. All fertilizing is carried out at night, on damp soil.

When flowers appear, you need to watch the peppers especially carefully. If it gets too hot (more than 33-34°), the flowers may fall off and the peppers may wilt, so it is best to shade the plants in extreme heat.

It is better to tear off the first flower that appears, so that the peppers do not become depleted of strength and development is not delayed.

ABOUT PEPPER DISEASES AND THE FIGHT WITH THEM

Although with proper agricultural practices the risk of disease is minimized, peppers are still not immune to various infections.

Most often, plants are affected by late blight, fusarium, brown spot, black rot of fruits, and black leg. Almost all of these diseases are fungal in nature.

Diseases such as mosaic are caused by viruses. Blossom rot, when plants begin to rot, occurs due to errors in watering and care.

To protect plants from black rot, before planting seedlings, you need to treat the seeds with potassium permanganate according to the scheme indicated above, and do not plant peppers in the garden after nightshades.

With blackleg, rot of the root part of the plant appears, which leads to its death. Affected peppers should be removed immediately, and the beds with the remaining ones should be watered with a 3% solution of copper sulfate and sprinkled with ash.

Spraying with garlic infusion helps against late blight.

To do this, mix 100-150 g of crushed dry leaves or scales of garlic heads in 10 liters of water, leave for 24 hours and spray the plant with this solution. You can also use 1% Bordeaux mixture. To prevent late blight, peppers should be planted away from tomatoes and potatoes.

In greenhouses, peppers are most often affected by gray rot. This is usually due to high humidity. Therefore, for the purpose of prevention in greenhouses, it is necessary to regularly ventilate the premises and plant peppers at large intervals between each other.

HARVESTING PEPPERS

Peppers accumulate vitamins before the seeds ripen. Therefore, ripe red and yellow peppers contain more vitamins than green ones.

Ripe peppers should be carefully cut with pruning shears. By picking off the fruits, as many people mistakenly do, you can damage the fragile plant. It is important to regularly remove the fruits as they ripen, without leaving them on the bush.

If ripened fruits remain on it for a long time, then the plant stops blooming and producing new ovaries. If you pick the peppers on time, the plant will continue to bloom and bear fruit.

If frosts begin and the ground peppers are not yet fully ripe, it is best to tear the plants out of the ground with their roots and hang them in a warm place. The peppers will soon ripen on their own.

There is another way - in the fall the peppers can be dug up and transplanted into a pot. At home on the windowsill they will grow and bear fruit until next summer (after all, this is a perennial plant).

Peppers are responsive to care. If you put your soul into them, they will amaze you with their productivity and rich taste. Go for it!

Growing peppers - sharing our experience

The vegetable is simply golden

I also want to talk about pepper, although much has already been written about it. But there are as many secrets as there are gardeners. So, in order.

As I wrote before, we take the land from the dacha, in the village, in a ravine under nettles. We put it in bags, bring it home and put it on the loggia. Although it is glazed, it is not insulated, so the ground freezes. I don’t plant seedlings early, although I tried in mid-February, and at the end and beginning of March, but settled on the date of March 10. We plant peppers in the ground on May 10-15 under double acrylic, the densest. Therefore, even if there is frost, they will still not freeze. By this time, the peppers have grown to 30-35 cm - strong, the leaves are large, green, the bush is all in buds and - most importantly - does not bloom, literally 2-3 flowers, and that’s all. And my landing rules are as follows.

In mid-February, we bring the soil from the loggia into the common corridor, where it remains until March 1 and thaws during this time. And on the 1st, I pour it into a basin, add a full handful of ash, mix it and pour it into seedling boxes. Then I pour a hot pink solution of potassium permanganate on it. Until March 10, the boxes are in the hallway of the apartment. During this time, the earth has time to rest and dry out a little. I loosen it, lightly pat it down and make two grooves, pour it with a slightly warm pinkish

potassium permanganate solution and plant the seeds. First I pickle the seeds in a dark solution of manganese and plant them without washing them. I don’t carry out any more manipulations with them - I think that if the seeds are good, they will germinate successfully, but why revive dead ones?

I have my own seeds, so I plant them every 1 cm. I remove those that sprout later than necessary, and my own seeds sprout literally after 5-7 days. All this time, the boxes stand on the table by the window, covered with polyethylene, secured with an elastic band.

From time to time I buy new seeds at the store. I leave the ones that suit me, and remove the rest. Two years ago, yellow pepper seeds were purchased - White Gold, Golden Calf and Bugai. I don't have photos, but they are exactly as advertised on the bags, only even larger. The Titan and Atlant varieties have proven themselves to be excellent. They are all beautiful, very large and very sweet.

This is how I grow seedlings, everything is very simple, by March 20 all the seeds germinate. And on April 5, the transplantation begins. I replant them in 400 gram sour cream cups. And here the most important thing is that I definitely dive them.

For what? Yes, many argue that you don’t need to pick peppers, but I believe that if you don’t do this, the pepper will start to grow too quickly and by the time of planting it will be very tall and will bloom, but this is exactly undesirable! No matter how carefully we replant the pepper, if it is already blooming profusely, its color will still fall off, even if not all of it, and we don’t need that.

When I dive, in the first week the pepper seems to freeze and does not grow. By the end of the second week it begins to move a little, and only by the end of the third week does growth resume. This is approximately April 24-26. There are three weeks left before planting in the ground under film on May 12-15 – that’s quite enough. Pepper has time to grow, because he is no longer young in age.

Medicine for prevention

And the transplant is quite simple. We dig holes, remove the sprouts from the cups, plant them and water them. We do not add any fertilizers. And only after a week, when the peppers have finally gotten stronger, we feed them when watering. By this time we already have the fertilizer ready. We prepare it like this: in a 200-liter barrel we put 1 bucket of manure, 1 package of granulated chicken manure, leftover yeast, jam, pieces of half-eaten bread, and grown nettles. All this ferments for 2-3 weeks and it’s ready.

But I add this fertilizer not 1 liter per bucket, but 0.5 liters. But every week (1 time). And if the weather is hot and dry, we water ourselves every other day or every day, but literally 0.7 liters each, since pepper has a superficial root system and this amount of moisture is enough for it.

Two weeks after planting, I spray the peppers once with a solution containing zircon. I read in one magazine that this is a natural preparation - an extract from the herb Echinacea purpurea, which is a medicinal plant. I always have a lot of pepper, every year, and I didn’t count.

Only in 2013 I decided to count. From 72 bushes we collected almost five bags - those in which sugar is sold at 50 kg. And two more buckets, but smaller ones, albeit red ones. And the peppers in the bags were not just large, but actually huge, red, yellow and very sweet! It was too much for us, we had to sell it. We took it with pleasure.

I make a lot of pepper preparations: I marinate them, prepare adjika, lecho, and freeze them. In general, we have a garden of 17 acres, so we grow everything we need and can, and we are not afraid of any food sanctions!

I wish all readers health, success on the dacha front, and the respected editors also patience to sort out our scribbles.

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    • 1.Too fast

    There is no rush to board. By planting plants in open ground before the air temperature reaches 20-25° C, we will experience a delay in development and a lack of harvest. You can plant early only under film and in greenhouses.

    2. Not enough light

    In the shade, the peppers wither, begin to stretch out and fall from the wind. They do not set fruit in this state. To prevent peppers from suffering from lack of light, they should even be planted less frequently - no closer than 25 cm from each other and no less than 60 cm between rows.

    3. Shallower is better than deeper

    Peppers, like trees, have a root collar. Therefore, it cannot be buried. It must be planted in the same way as it grew in the nursery. It is very important to prevent pepper plants from stretching during the seedling period. Elongated seedlings cannot be planted lying down, like tomatoes. The pepper is buried no lower than the cotyledon leaves. It’s better not to bury it at all: then the seedlings won’t “sit” in one pore for a long time.

    4. Supports will come in handy

    Despite the fact that closely planted peppers themselves support each other from lodging, they still need to be tied up. Otherwise, when it rains, the wind will blow down the peppercorns - so much so that the roots will turn out.

    A garter is required for all varieties, and especially for hybrids characterized by strong growth. Urgent gartering is required when branches break when touched lightly.

    5. Not a cucumber, but still...

    Peppers tolerate replanting better than cucumbers, but it is also very painful and take a long time to take root. To keep as many roots as possible undamaged, planting must be done by transferring them from the cups in which the peppers grew. It is even recommended to avoid picking so as not to damage the roots.

    6. No heat - no cold, no moisture - no drought

    Pepper is afraid of coolness and... heat. Already at temperatures above 35° C, the flowers fall off. At the same time, pepper loves water very much, but does not tolerate flooding. If you over-water, the flowers and ovaries will fall off in the same way as with insufficient watering. Peppers need to be watered, like cucumbers, often and little by little. This will lower the temperature and allow you to get large fruits.

    By the way, pepper responds best to drip irrigation of all crops.

    7. Deep loosening is dangerous

    Despite the shallow roots, peppers need to be loosened every 2 weeks. They are loosened shallowly, literally a couple of centimeters. If you damage the root, the plant will wither and die or simply lose all its flowers and ovaries.

    You can get rid of such dangerous work if you mulch the pepper plantings with sawdust, pine needles or straw at least 7-10 cm thick.

    8. Feeding is required

    Peppers have empty space inside, but you need to feed them as if they were full. Fertilizing in open ground is applied once every 1-1.5 weeks. Peppers are very fond of nitrogen and potassium, less so of phosphorus. However, plants cannot tolerate excess fertilizer. It is imperative to observe the measure and under no circumstances apply fresh manure: rotten fruits will appear.

    9. Pollination can't hurt

    Pepper is a self-pollinating plant, but, as practice shows, cross-pollination of different varieties growing nearby is also possible. This happens with the help of insects. It has long been noticed that if several varieties of pepper are planted on a plot, the harvest is always better.

    10. Avoid diseases and pests

    To prevent diseases (and peppers have a lot of them), you need to treat the plantings once or twice a season with any copper-containing preparation. It is best to use systemic drugs - Ridomil, Ordan. It is necessary to monitor the emergence of diseases and promptly treat plants against aphids and mites. And if your peppers are favored by cutworms (caterpillars), it is best to use the drugs Alatar, Confidor, Mospilan.

    If the timing is missed, the caterpillars will become resistant to poisons.